B 


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33 


THE 


KEDGE-ANCHOE; 


OR, 


YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT. 


APPERTAINING  TO  THE  PRACTICAL  EVOLUTIONS  OF  MODERN  SEAMANSHIP, 
RIGGING,   KNOTTING,   SPLICING,   BLOCKS,   PURCHASES,   RUNNING- 
RIGGING,  AND  OTHER  MISCELLANEOUS  MATTERS,  APPLI- 
CABLE TO  SHIPS-OF-WAR  AND  OTHERS. 


ILLUSTRATED  WITH  SEVENTY  ENGRA  VINGS. 


TABLES  OF  RIGGING,  SPARS,  SAILS,  BLOCKS,  CANVAS,  CORDAGE,  CHAIN  AND  HEMP  CABLES, 
HAWSERS,  ETC.,  RELATIVE  TO  EVERY  CLASS  OF  VESSELS. 


BY 

WILLIAM     X.     BRADY, 

SAILING-MASTEE,  TT.  8.  N. 


EIGHTEENTH     EDITION.    * 
* 
IMPROVED   AND   ENLARGED,  -WITH   ADDITIONAL    MATTER,    PLATES,    AND   TABLES. 


NEW  YOEK: 
D.    APPLETON   AND    COMPANY, 

1,    3,    AND    5   BOND    STEEET. 

1882. 


Wf 


according  to  the  Act  of 'Congress,  in  the  year  1847, 

By  WILLIAM  N.  BRADY, 
in  me  Cleric's  Ottice  of  the  District  Court  lor  the  Southern  District  of  New  Vor« 


o 


- 

.  ,-./  •   c  **  •  -  - 


iUn 


DEDICATED 


TO    THE 


UNITED    STATES'    NAVY 


AND 


MERCHANT   SERVICE. 


NAUTICAL 
TUU  FK:  .,,KS 

.  FOR  U.  S. 

•     ,  ".:  -OKo  &c. 


. 


H 


-  -s    . 

M36253 


BOTTT    GIVE    UP   THE   SHIP.' 


"Ships  our  cradles,  decks  our  pillows, 
Lulled  by  winds  and  rocked  by  billowa; 
Gnily  bound  we  o'er  the  tide, 
Hope  our  anchor,  Heaven  our  guide.** 


PREFACE. 


J.N  offering  the  following  work  to  the  public,  the  author  joe  IBS  no 
apology  necessary,  as  it  was  written  for  tue  use  of  the  Naval  and  Mer- 
chant Service  of  the  United  States,  as  a  ready  means  of  introducing 
Young  Sailors  to  the  theory  of  that  art  by  which  they  must  expect  to 
advance  in  the  profession  they  have  chosen.  He  natters  himself,  how- 
ever, that  it  will  be  found  useful  to  many  old  and  experienced  seamen, 
as  well  as  to  those  who  have  just  entered  the  sailors',  life,  and  particu- 
larly to  those  destined  for  the  Navy.  Should  it  fall  into  the  hands  of 
the  learned,  they  will  bear  in  mind  that  he  is  better  versed  with  the 
marlincspike  than  the  pen,  and  that  it  was  composed  in  the  hours  of 
relaxation  from  official  duties.  He  therefore  hopes  that  it  may  be 
received  for  that  which  it  is  intended  to  be,  A  KEDGE-AXCHOR,  for  the 
youthful  sailor.  The  work  has  been  submitted  to  the  inspection  of  a 
number  of  experienced  officers,  both  in  the  Navy  and  Merchant  Ser- 
vice, who  have  given  it  their  decided  approbation ; — some  of  whose 
names  are  appended  to  the  work.  "With  these  few  remarks,  he  submits 
it  to  a  discerning  public,  to  stand  or  fall  on  its  own  merits. 


RECOMMENDATIONS. 


1  have  examined  the  manuscript  of  Mr.  Brady  and  approve  cf  it,  as 
a  very  useful  Book  for  young  officers  and  others,  in  the  Naval  and 
Merchant  service. 

JOHN  GALLAGHER,  Captain  U,  S.  Navy. 

I  fully  concur  in  the  above. 

E.  PECK,  Commander  U.  S.  Navy. 

I  have  examined  the  within  treatise  on  Seamanship,  and  other  mis- 
cellaneous matter  appertaining  to  ships  and  vessels  of  war  (written  by 
William  Brady,  Master  U.  S.  Navy).  It  affords  me  much  pleasure  to 
recommend  the  same  to  the  junior  officers  of  the  Navy,  and  others  who 
may  be  disposed  to  learn  the  profession  of  Seamanship. 

TV.  C.  TVETMORE,  Commander  U.  S.  Navy. 

Examined  and  approved  as  a  work  that  will  be  useful  to  the  Servica 
J.  D.  L.  SAUNDERS,  Commander  U.  S.  Navy. 
J.  MATTISON,  Commander  U.  S.  Navy. 

This  I  conceive  to  be  a  valuable  work,  and  well  calculated  to  be  use- 
ful to  the  Service, 

JOSHUA  R.  SANDS,  Commander  U.  S.  Navy. 

I  have  closely  examined  the  within  work,  and  think  it  well  calcu- 
lated for  the  instruction  of  young  officers  and  others  in  the  Navy. 
JAMES  RENSHATV,  Captain  U.  S  Navy. 

I  fully  concur  in  the  above. 

FRANCIS  0.  ELLISON,  Master  U.  S.  Navv 


b  RECOMMENDATIONS. 

I  have  carefully  examined  the  within  work  on  Seamanship,  and 
think  it  one  well  calculated  for  the  instruction  of  young  officeis,  and 
others.  C.  G.  HUNTER,  Lieutenant  U.  S.  Navy. 

We  cheerfully  recommend  this  work  of  William  Brady,  S.  Master 
U.  S.  Navy,  to  the  maritime  community,  and  think  it  well  calculated 
for  the  instruction  of  all  who  may  be  disposed  to  learn  the  profession 

of  Seamanship. 

ISAAC  McKEEVER,  Captain  U.  S.  Navy. 

JAMES  McINTOSH,  Commander  U.  S.  Navy. 

WILLIAM  L.  HUDSON,    " 

HENRY  EAGLE, 

A.  G.  GORDON,  Lieutenant  U.  S. 

CADWALDER  RINGGOLD, 

WILLIAM  F.  LYNCH, 

HENRY  W.  MORRIS, 

FRANCIS  B.  ELLISON, 

JAMES  H.  ROWAN, 

JOHN  COLHOUN, 

T.  TURNER, 

T.  A.  HUNT, 

HENRY  MOORE, 

JOHN  J.  GLASSON, 

CHARLES  HEYWOOD, 

CHARLES  S.  BOGGS, 

ALEXANDER  GIBSON, 

ALEXANDER  M.  PENNOCK, 

MONTGOMERY  HUNT, 

FRANCIS  HAGGERTY 

J.  R.  McMULLANY, 

CAPT.  HENRY  D.  HUNTER,  Commanding  U.  S.  Rev.  Steamer  Polk 
JOHN  McGOWAN,  1st  Lieutenant  U.  S.  Rev.  Marine. 
WILLIAM  H.  BROWN,  Lieutenant  U.  S.  Rev.  Marine. 
JOSEPH  C.  NOYES,  Lieutenant  U.  S.  Rev.  Marine. 

</'Ai»T.  E.  RICHARDSON,  President  American  Seamen  Friend  Societj 
"     AUGUSTUS  PROAL,  Reviewer  of  the  Work. 

.  SAMUEL  YEATON,  Commanding  Packet  ship  Oxford. 

D.  G.  BAILEY,  "  "        Yorkshire. 
GEORGE  B.  CORNISH,      «  "        Sheridan. 

E.  G.  FURBER,  "  "        Europe. 

A.  B.  LOWBER,  "  "        Montezuma. 

J.  A.  WOTTEN,  "  "        Admiral. 

JOSEPH  HAMILTON,  Commanding  Packet  ship  So.  Carotin?, 
CHARLES  R.  GRIFFITH,  Commanding     Ship  Southport. 
JAMES  RENNE,  "  "     Gondola. 

lilA  BURSLEY,  "  "     Hottenger 

GEORGE  W.  HOWE,  Commanding  Packet  ship  Bavaria. 


CONTENTS, 


PAET  I. 

Number.  pa?e. 

1.  To  knot  a  Rope- Yarn, 21 

2.  To  make  a  Fox, -        -'.* 

3.  To  make  a  Spanish  Fox, -21 

4.  To  make  a  Knittle, 22 

5.  Overhanded  Knot, .  -        -        -        -  22 

6.  Figure  of  Eight-Knot, 22 

7.  Two  Half-Hitches, 22 

8.  Reef  or  Square  Knot, 22 

9.  A  Bowline  Knot, -  22 

10.  Bowline  on  the  Bight, 23 

1 1.  A  Running  Bowline,     ----••---  23 

12.  A  Timber-Hitch, 23 

13.  A  Fisherman's  Bend, 23 

14.  A  Rolling  Bend,  23 

15.  A  Carrick  Bend, 23 

16.  A  Cat's-Paw, 24 

17.  A  Sheet  or  Becket  Bend, 24 

18.  A  Black- Wall  Hitch, 24 

19.  A  Rolling  Hitch, 25 

20.  A  Salvagee  Strap,        ......  --25 

21.  A  Pudding  for  a  Mast  or  Yard,  -        .        -  -        -  25 

22.  A  Short  Splice, -  25 

23.  A  Long  Splice,     -        » --26 

24.  An  Eye  Splice, -  26 

25.  A  Cut  Splice, -  27 

26.  A  Flemish  Eye, -        -  27 

27.  An  Artificial  Eye, --27 

28.  To  worm  and  serve  a  Rope,         ....  .  27 

29.  To  clap  on  a  Throat  and  Quarter  Seizing,  -  -        -  28 

30.  To  make  a  Turk's  Head, -  28 

31.  To  Sheepshank  a  Rope  or  Backstay,    -  -  29 

32.  To  put  a  Strand  Jfi  a  Rope,          ....  -        -  29 

33.  To  Wall  and  Crown, -        -  29 

34.  To  make  a  Mathew  Walker,         ....  -        -  29 

35.  A  Spritsail  Sheet  Knot, -        -  30 

36.  A  Shroud-Knot, -        -  30 

37.  A  French  Shroud  Knot, 30 

3b.  A  single  Diamond  Knot, -  30 

39.  A  double  Diamond  Knot, 31 

40.  A  Stopper  Knou 31 


£0  CONTENTS. 

Number.  Fi«e 

41.  A  ]3uoy-rope  Knot,       -        -        -        -        -        -  *     - 

42.  A  Common  Sennit,       ....-..--31 

43.  A  Sea  Gasket, 31 

44.  A  Panch  or  Wrought  Mat,  -        -        -        -        -        -        -32 

45.  A  Harbor  Gasket  or  French  Sennit,  -..--; 

46.  Pointing  a  Rope, ....; 

47.  To  make  a  Grommet, "I 

48.  To  pass  a  Rose-Lashing,      --------! 

49.  To  weave  a  Sword  Mat,      ---.----I 

50.  A  Lashing  Cleat, 34 

51.  A  Shell,  Pin  and  Sheave, 34 

52.  A  Single,  Double  and  Treble  Block, 34 

53.  A  Shoulder  Block, 34 

54.  A  Fiddle  Block,    -      • 35 

55.  A  Shoe  Block. -    35 

56.  A  Sister  Block, 35 

57.  A  Dead-Eye, 35 

58.  A  Heart, 36 

59.  A  Beiaying-pin  Rack,  ......--36 

60.  A  Euphroe, 36 

61.  A  Horn  Cleat, 36 

62.  A  B-Cleat, 36 

63.  A  Strap  for  a  Block, 36 

64.  A  Tail  Block, 37 

65.  A  Purchase  Block, : 

66.  A  Top  Block, 37 

67.  A  Cat  Block, 38 

68.  A  Snatch  Block, 38 

69.  A  Nun  Buoy, 38 

70.  To  bend  a  Buoy-Rope,          .----..-.; 

71.  To  Pudding  the  Ring  of  an  Anchor,    ------    39 

72.  A  Jacob's  Ladder, 39 

73.  Can-Hooks, 40 

74.  Hogshead  Slings, -        -40 

75.  Barrel  Slinks.        - 40 

76.  A  Single  Whip,    - ...    40 

77.  A  Gun-Tackle  Purchase,      -        -        -        - 

78.  A  Luff-Tackle  Purchase,      - 


79.  A  Top  Burton, 

80.  Whip  and  Runner, 

81.  Runner  and  Tackle, 

82.  A  Twofold  Purchase, 

83.  A  Threefold  Purchase, -..42 

84.  Names  of  Ropes, 42 


41 
41 
41 
41 
41 
41 


PART  II. 

85.  Launching  a  Ship,        ------- 

86.  Cutting  out  Standing  Rigging,    -------44 

87        "         "    Topmast  and  Top-gallant  Rigging,  -        -        -        -  45 

88.  "          <:    Breast  and  Standing  Back-stays,        -        -        -        -  45 

89.  "          "    Catharpen  Legs  and  Futtock  Shrouds,                        -  46 

90.  "          "    Fore  and  Aft  Stays,  - 46 

91.  "          "    Lower  Mast  Head  Pendants,     -                                   -  46 

92.  '<          "    Bobstays,                                                                 -        -  46 


CONTENTS. 


•lumber. 

93.  Cutting  «/ut  Bowsprit  Shrouds,  -        -        - 

94.  "        "  Jib  and  Flying  Jib  Guys,  - 

95.  "        "   Running  Rigging,    - 

96.  Rigging  Shears  and  taking  in  Masts  and  Bowsprit, 

97.  To  take  in  the  Mizen  Mast,         - 

98.  "          "       Main  and  Foremast,     - 

99.  "  M       Bowsprit,      -,---• 

100.  Gammoning  the  Bowsprit, 

101.  Fitting  Rigging, 

102.  "      Mast-head  Pendants,        - 

103.  "      Lower  and  Topmast  Stays,      ... 

104.  To  Rig  the  Foremast, 

105.  Futtock  Shrouds, 

106.  To  Rig  the  Main  and  Mizen  Mast,     - 

107.  «      "      «    Bowsprit, 

108.  Getting  Tops  over  (whole  Tops,) 

109.  "  Half-tops  over,        - 

110.  "       up  Top-blocks, 

111.  "  "  Top-masts,          ..... 

112.  «  the  Cap  into  the  Top,       .... 

113.  Turning  in  Dead-eyes,         ..... 

114.  Getting  Topmast  Cross-trees  over,      ... 

115.  Placing  Topmast  Rigging,          - 

1 16.  To  seize-in  the  Sister  Blocks,       .... 

117.  Backstays  (Breast), 

118.  Standing  After  Backstays,  -        .... 

1 19.  Main  Topmast  Stay, 

120.  Mizen        "          " 

121.  Getting  the  Topmast  Caps  on,    - 

122.  Mast-head  Man-ropes,  &c.,  &c.,  - 

123.  Top-Tackle  Pendants, 

124.  Preparing  to  Fid  the  Topmasts,-        ... 

125.  Rattling  the  Lower  and  Topmast  Rigging, 

126.  Futtock  Staves  in  Topmast  Rigging,  - 

127.  To  Rig  the  Jib-Boom,          -        -   .     - 

128.  Jib-Boom  Martingale  Stay,          .... 

129.  Jib-Boom  Guys, 

130.  Martingale  Back-ropes,       ----- 

131.  Placing  the  Rigging  on  a  Dolphin  Striker, 

132.  Getting  the  Jib-Boom  out,   -        -        -        -        - 

133.  Sending  up  Topgallant  Masts,    - 

\3i.  Royal  Rigging,  ------- 

135.  Short  and  Long  Topgallant  Mast  Ropes,   - 

136.  To  Rig  the  Flying  Jib-Boom,     - 

137.  Spritsail  Lifts, 

'33.  Spritsail  Braces, 

139.  Strapping  Thimbles  for  Guys  on  Spritsail  yard, 

140.  Crossing  a  Spritsail  Yard,  ----- 

141.  Two  Half-spritsail  Yards, 

142.  Whiskers,    -        -        - 

143.  To  get  onboard  and  rig  Lower  Yards, 

144.  Truss  Straps, 

145.  Tf-fcss  Pendants,  -        -        ... 

146.  Quarter  Blocks — Lower  Yards,  -        -        -        - 

147.  Clew  Garnet  Blocks,  ------ 

US.  Lift  Blocks— Lower  Yards,         - 

149.  Foot  Ropes  and  Stirrups, 

150.  Jack  Stays — Bending  and  Reefing,     - 


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82 


14  CONTENTS. 

Number  Paja 

266.  Weighing  an  Anchor  with  the  Launch,     -        ....  150 

267.  Weighing  an  Anchor  with  a  Buoy  Rope,  -        -        -        -  151 

268.  Boating  an  Anchor, 152 

269.  Taking  in  a  Launch, 152 

270.  Taking  in  Boats  both  sides  at  once,          -        -        -        -        -  153 


PART  IV. 

271.  Getting  under-weigh,  --        -        -        -        -        -        -        -154 

272.  When  the  Messenger  Strands,  or  is  likely  to  part,     ...  155 

273.  To  get  under-weigh,  and  stand  before  the  Wind,      -  156 

274.  To  get  under-weigh  and  back  a-stern  to  avoid  danger,      -        -  157 

275.  Getting  under-weigh — a  Shoal  on  each  Beam,  -  157 

276.  Getting  under- weigh  in  a  Narrow  Channel,       -        ...  158 

277.  Head  to  Wind — cast  on  Larboard  Tack, 159 

278.  Windward  Tide — get  under-weigh  and  stand  before  the  wind,  159 

279.  To  get  under-weigh,  and  stand  out  on  a  wind,  -  160 

280.  Riding  head  to  Tide — wind  on  the  Starboard  Quarter,  get 

under-weigh  on  the  Starboard  Tack, 161 

2S1.  Getting  under-weigh — wind  across  the  Tide,     -  161 

282.  To  back  and  fill  in  a  Tideway, 162 

283.  Driving  before  the  Wind, 162 

284.  Driving  broadside-to,         -        -        - 163 

285.  Securing  the  Ship  for  Sea, 163 

286.  Stowing  the  Anchors  for  Sea, 163 

287.  Setting  Topgallant  sails — blowing  fresh, 164 

288.  Setting  Courses, 164 

289.  Setting  the  Spanker.         - 165 

290.  Setting  the  Jib,    -       - 165 

291.  Setting  Lower  Studding-sails,  -------  166 

292.  Shifting  a  Course  at  Sea, 166 

293.  Taking  in  a  Course  in  a  Gale  of  Wind,    -        -        -        -        -  J67 

294.  Taking  in  a  Topsail  in  a  Gale  of  Wind, 167 

295.  Taking  in  a  Topgallant  Sail, 168 

296.  Taking  in  a  Spanker,        -                          - .       -        -        -        -  168 

297.  Setting  a  Close-reefed  Topsail,  -        -        -                 -        -        -  168 

298.  A  Close-reefed  Topsail  Splits, 168 

290.  A  Jib  Splits, 169 

3<KX  Wearing  a  Ship  under   a  Close-reefed   Main-Topsail,   and 

Storm-staysail,       -        -        -         - 169 

301.  Wearing  under  a  Main-sail, 170 

302.  Wearing  under  Bare  Poles, 170 

303.  Cutting  away  the  Masts, 170 

304.  Laying-to  under  Lower  Stay-sails— Wear  Ship,        -        -        -  170 


PART  V. 

305.  Precautions  for  Scudding,  --        -        -        -        -        -        ~*P 

305.  Scudding — a  Ship  Broaches-to, 1~2 

307.  Scudding — brougnt  by  the  Lee,        ------     172 

308.  Heaving-to, 

309.  Taking  in  a  Lower  Studding-sail— blowing  fresh,     -        -        -     173 

310.  To  unbend  a  Topsail  in  a  gale  of  wind, 174 

311.  Securing  in  a  Gale, 174 

312.  Preparations  for  a  Hurricane  at  Sea.        -  -175 


CONTENTS.  15 

Numl«r.  Pace. 

313.  Preparations   for  a    Hurricane,  at  Anchor,  and    Notes   on 

Barometer,  -                 175 

314   The  Foremast  is  carried  away,          ------  173 

315.  To  Riga  Jury  Mast, 178 

316.  Accidents  to  Tiller  in  the  event  of  losing  a  Mast,     -        -        -  178 

317.  The  Mainmast  is  carried  away,        ------  179 

318.  The  Bowsprit  is  carried  away,  -------  179 

319.  A  Topmast  is  carried  away,     - 179 

320.  The  Jib-Boom  is  carried  away,        - 179 

321.  The  Foremast  is  sprung  near  the  Hounds,  or  Bibbs,        -        -  180 

322.  The  Foremast  and  Bowsprit  are  carried  away,        -  180 

323.  The  Bowsprit  is  Sprung, 180 

324.  A  Topmast  is  Sprung  near  the  Lower  Cap,     -  181 

325.  To  send  aloft  a  Topmast,  and  a  heavy  Sea  on,  181 

326.  The  Gammoning  carried  away,        ------  181 

327.  A  Lower  Cap  splits,  ----                 -        -        .        .  181 

328.  The  Trestle-trees  are  Sprung,-        ------  182 

329.  A  Lower  Yard  is  carried  away  in  the  Slings,  -        -        -        -  182 

330.  A  Topsail  Yard  is  carried  away,      ------  182 

331.  The  Ship  leaks  faster  than  the  Pumps  can  free  her,  -        -        -  183 

332.  The  Pumps  are  choked, 183 

333.  A  Shot  gets  loose  in  a  Gun  secured  for  a  Gale,        -        -        -  183 

334.  To  throw  a  Lower-deck  Gun  overboard,  -----  184 


PART  VI. 

335.  To  turn  Reefs  out  of  the  Topsails  and  Courses.        -        -        -  185 

336.  The  Rudder  is  carried  away — to  fit  another,     -        -        -        -  185 

337.  A  Ship  on  fire  at  Sea,      -  " 186 

338.  A  Ship  on  her  beam  ends,        -------  137 

339.  Wind  free,  all  sail  set,  struck  by  a  Squall,        -        -        -        -  187 

340.  Struck  by  a  Squall  on  a  Lee  Shore,        -----  187 

341.  Struck  by  a  Squall  under  whole  Topsails  and  Courses,     -        -  188 

342.  On  a  wind  under  whole  Topsails — part  the  weather  Main  Top- 

sail brace, -        -        -        -        -  183 

343.  The  Jib  Downhaul  parts, 188 

344.  To  Chase,        - 188 

315.  To  Chase  to  Windward, 189 

346.  Observations  for  a  Ship  to  Windward  that  is  chased,      -        -  189 

347.  To  Chase  to  Leeward,     ------                 -  190 

348.  To  Windward  of  an  enemy  within  pistol-shot — the  weather  main 

rigging  is  shot  away,  both  ships  with  main  Topsails   to 

the  mast,          --_--____  190 

349.  Wind  on  the  Quarter,  all  sail  set — bring  by  under  double-reefed 

Topsails,     ----- 191 

350.  Wind  on  the  Quarter,  all  sail  set — bring  to  on  the  other  Task, 

under  double-reefed  Topsails,      ------  191 

351.  How  to  get  the  Anchor  off  the  Bows,        -        -        -        -        -  191 

352.  Anchor  head  to  wind,  wind  free,      ------  192 

353.  To  Anchor  on  a  Lee  Shore,     - 192 

354.  Scudding  under  a  Foresail — to  come  to  an  Anchor,  -        -        -  193 

355.  To  make  a  Flying  moor,  - 193 

356.  To  Moor  with  a  long  scope  of  chain,        -----  194 

357.  Blowing  Fresh — in  Port,  --------  194 

358.  Send  down  Lower  Yards, 194 

359.  To  House  Topmasts,                                                               -         -  195 


16  CONTENTS. 

.lumber.  Pag*. 

360.  To  back  a  Bower  by  a  Stream, 195 

361.  To  Sweep  for  an  Anchor, 195 

362.  Preparations  for  leaving  Harbor,      ------  196 

363.  Weighing  Anchor  in  a  head  Sea, 196 

364.  Casting  or  Cutting  the  Cable, 196 

3S5.  Clinching  Cables, 197 

366.  Fitting  Buoy-Ropes, ----197 

367.  Jib-Halliards,  with  a  Whip, 197 

368.  Jib-Sheets,  double, 198 

369.  Wrecked  in  a  Gale, 198 

370.  Setting  up  Rigging  at  Sea, 199 

371.  Slacking  the  Jib-stay  in  bad  weather,       -----  200 

372.  Stopping  out  Top-Gallant  Yard  Ropes,    -----  200 

373.  Preventer  Braces, 200 

374.  Keeping  a  Clear  Anchor,  -        - 201 

375.  Anchor  turning  in  the  ground,         ------  201 

376.  To  tend  to  a  weather  Tide, 201 

377.  A  Man  overboard  (at  sea), 202 

378.  Jib  and  Staysail  Halliard  Blocks  at  Mast-head,  -        -        -        -  203 

379.  To  keep  the  Hawse  clear  when  Moored,  -----  203 
980.  To  tend  to  Windward— single  Anchor,    -        -  .     -        -        -  203 

381.  To  tend  to  Leeward,                 203 

382.  To  Back  Ship  at  Anchor, 204 

383.  To  break  the  Shear, 204 

384.  On  Getting  to  Sea, ---  204 

385.  On  Fire  Regulations  in  the  Merchant  Service,        -        -        -  205 

386.  Station  Bill  for  fire  in  the  Merchant  Service,    -        -        -        -  207 

387.  Taking  to  the  Boats, 208 

388.  Losing  a  Rudder  at  a  Critical  Moment,  &c.5     -  209 

389.  Steamers  getting  aground, 209 

390.  The  duty  of  remaining  by  a  damaged  Vessel,   -  21C 


PART  VII. 

391.  On  Squaring  Yards, 213 

392.  Up  Topgallant  Masts  and  Yards— the  Mast  being  on  deck,      -  214 

393.  Down  Topgallant  Masts  and  Yards, 215 

394.  Crossing  Topgallant  and  Royal  Yards,  and  loosing  Sails,        -  216 

395.  Top-Mast  carried  away, 217 

396.  Clearing  the  Wreck  of  a  Topmast, 218 

397.  Carrying  away  a  Jib-Boom,      -        -        -        -        -        -        -218 

398.  To  fish  a  Lower  Yard  in  the  Shortest  Time,     -        -        -        -  218 

399.  Expectation  of  losing  a  Lower  Mast,        -        -        -        -        -  219 

400.  Lying-to  in  a  Gale,  after  the  loss  of  Masts,    -  219 

401.  Spars  to  convert  in  case  of  need,      ------  2J9 

402.  Getting  aground,      -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -"-  220 

403.  The  Ballast  shifting  at  Sea,       -        -        -                 -        -        -  221 

404.  Vessels  Surprised  on  Opposite  Tacks.      -                 -        -        -  221 

405.  Meeting  at  Sea,        -        -        -        - '      -                 -        -        -  222 

406.  A  Hint  on  Running  too  Long,  -                                   -  222 

407.  A  Hint  on  Rounding-to  in  a  Gale,     -        -                 -  223 

408.  On  Making  your  Port,      - 

409.  Laying  off  and  on  to  enter  a  port,    -        -                 ...  223 
110.  To  Anchor  and  Veer  a  long  Scope  of  Cable,            -        -        -  224 

411.  Preparations — Going  into  Harbor,     ------  224 

412.  Cautions  at  Night,  (Lookouts), 224 


CONTENTS.  17 

Kuril*:.  tt»r»- 

413.  Two  Vessels  in  Collision, 225 

414.  Squalls,  (Caution), 225 

415.  Water  Spouts,  (Caution,) -  225 

416.  Pressure  of  Water  at  different  depths,    - 

417.  On  Stopping  Leaks,  --------  226 

418.  Examination  of  Chain  Cables, 227 

419.  Minute  Guns, -  227 

420.  Hoisting  on  Board  Money  or  Plate,  -  228 


PART  VIII. 

421.  Stowing  Hammocks, -  229 

422.  Cockbiilincr  Yards, 230 

423.  Dressing  Ship  with  Flags, 230 

424.  Keeping  the  Copper  clean, -231 

425.  Furling  from  a  Bowline,  ------  -  232 

426.  High  and  Low  Bunts, 233 

427.  To  Clear  Mast-heads, 233 

428.  Placing  belaying-cleats  in  Tops,       -        -        -        -        -        -  234 

429.  Making  Swabs, 234 

430.  Stowage  of  Swabs, 235 

431.  Junk, -  235 

432.  Making  Mats,  and  Chafing  Gear,      ------  235 

433.  Gaskets, 236 

434.  Scraping  and  Greasing  Mats,  -------  237 

435.  Manning  Yards. >  •        -  237 

436.  Man  Ropes— (side) 235! 

437.  Spare  Dead-eyes, 238 

438.  Hide  Rope, 239 

439.  Hawse-hole  Windsail, 239 

440. -Fighting  Ladders, ..--  239 

441.  Hawse  Bucklers, 239 

442.  Making-fast  a  Warp  to  a  Vessel,       ------  240 

443.  Fitting  Quarter  Boats'  Gripes,  -------  240 

444.  Fitting  Gigs'  Slings, 240 

445.  Scrubbing  a  Boat's  bottom  on  leaving  Harbor,  -  241 

446.  Carrying  Light  Boats  on  Shore,        -        -        -        -        -        -  241 

447.  Miscellaneous  Notes  on  Working  Boats.    -----  242 

448.  Duties  of  Boats'  Crews, 243 

449.  Boats  going  on  Distant  Service,        ------  243 

450.  Boats  under  Sail. 244 

451.  Giving  a  rope  to  a  Boat,    --------  244 

452.  Crossing  a  Bar  with  Surf— in  Boats,        -----  245 

453.  Hauling  up  Boats, 246 

454.  Lowering  Boats. 246 

455.  Turning  up  the  Hands. -  246 

456.  Inspection  of  Rigging,  Morning  and  Evening,  -        -  -  247 

457.  Inspection  of  Stowed  Anchors,  at  Sea,      -        -        .                 -  247 
4 53.  Inspection  of  Boats  at  Sea, -  248 

459.  Gammoning  the  Bowsprit,        -----  -  248 

460.  Precaution  in  Reeving  Running-rigging,          -  -  249 

461.  Topsail  Tyes, "...  .  249 

462.  Precaution  in  Blacking  Rigging,       ....  .  250 

463.  Fore  and  Main  Buntlines, -  25C 

464.  Topgallant  Mast  Ropes. -  25C 

465.  Futtock  Shrouds,       - -  C,V 


18  CONTENTS. 

Number.  Page 

466.  Tops  and  Half-Tops,        -                          251 

467.  Striking  or  Housing  Topmasts,        -        -        -        -        -        -251 

±68.  Swaying  up  Topmasts,     --------  252 

469.  Unmooring, 252 

470.  Reef-lines  to  the  Topsails, 253 

471.  Reefing  Courses, 253 

472.  Topgallant-Masts  struck, 254 

473.  Hailing  aloft, 254 

474.  Proportions  for  Cables  (Hemp), 254 

475.  «          for  Anchors, 254 

476.  What  length  is  necessary  to  form  a  Clinch,      -  255 

477.  References  to  Sketch  of  Temporary  Rudder,     -  255 

478.  To  Splice  an  Old  Cable  to  a  new  one, 255 

479.  Strip  Ship, 

480.  Proportions  of  Spars  of  Merchant  Ships,  Length  of  Spars,  &c.  256 

481.  Thickness  of  Spars  (Masts), -  257 

482.  Yards, -        -  257 

483.  Distance  for  Placing  Lower  Masts, 257 

484.  Rule  for  Placing  Masts  in  a  Ship, 257 

485.  Raising  Shears  on  a  Wharf, 258 

486.  To  find  the  Tonnage  of  a  Vessel  by  U.  S.  Measurement,  -        -  259 

487.  Stepping  and  Raking  Lower  Masts,        -----  259 

488.  Mooring, 260 


PART    IX. 

489.  Preparations  for  Heaving-down, 261 

490.  A  Derrick,        -------  -        -  269 

General  Cautions, 270 


PART  X. 
491.  Explanation  of  Sea  Terms, 273 


PART  XL 

492.  A  table  showing  the  weight  of  Cables  and  Anchors,  used  in 

ships  and  vessels  of  war,  in  the  U.  S.  Navy,        -  290 

493.  A  table  showin^  the  weight  of  Guns  and  Carriages,          -  -     291 

494.  «                "                       "          Chain  Cables,   -        -        -  -    292 

495.  "                           how  many  fathoms  make  112  pounds  of  foui- 

strand  shroud-laid  rope,       -------    292 

496.  Weight  of  one  foot  of  Bar  Iron,  293 

497.  A  Table  showing  the  weight  of  one  hundred  fathoms  cable- 

laid  rope,  from  two  to  twenty-six  inches,      -  293 
198.  A  Table  showing  the  strength  of  hemp-cables,  their  weight, 

size,  and  number  of  yarns  in  each,      -----  294 

499.  A  Table  showing  the  strength  of  plain-laid  rope,  three  strand,  295 

500.  "            "                   "                chain    cable,    as    tested    in 
fifteen  fathom  lengths, 296 


CONTENTS  19 

Number.  Pkge. 

501.  A  Table  showing  the  strength  of  short  round-linked  Bobstay, 

Bowsprit  shroud,  or  crane-chain  without  studs,  such  as  is 

used  for  rigging.  &c.    --------  297 

502.  Weight  of  Timber  in  a  green  and  seasoned  state,     -  298 

503.  A  Table  of  measures  and  weights  of  different  substances,          -  298 

504.  A  Table  of  weight  of  tarred  Cordage,       -----  299 

505.  A  Table  showing    the  comparative    strength    between   Iron 

Chains  and  Hemp  Cables,  and  the  size  required  agree- 
ably to  the  Tonnage,  --__-__     299 

506.  A  Table  showing  the  test  required  of  flax  and  cotton  Canvass, 

as  to  quality  and  strength,  before  being  received  for  use,  in 

the  U.  S.  Naval  service,      -------    300 

507.  Cordage  Table,  showing  the  weight  of  one  fathom  of  rope, 

from  one  to  twenty-four  inches,  plain-laid  three  strands,  &c.  301 

508.  A  Table  showing  the  length  of  1st  warp  of  Standing  Rigging,  302 

509.  A  Table  of  Foreign  Ordnance,          __._._  303 

510.  A  Table  showing    the  quantity  of    provisions,   slop-clothing, 

and  small  stores,  for  two  hundred  men  for  four  months, 

U.  S.  Navy, 304 

511.  A  Table  showing  the  component  parts  of  the  Navy  ration,        -    305 

512.  A  Table  for  finding  the  distance  of  an  object  by  two  bearings, 

and  the  distance  between  them,  -  -  308 

513.  Dimensions  of  masts  and  spars,  of  the  U.  S.  ship  Princeton,      -  309 

514.  A  Table  of  the  size  of  short-linked  chain,  when  used  as  rigging,  310 

515.  A  Table  showing  the   dimensions  of  the  masts  and  yards,  of 

American,  English,  and  French  ships,         -  312 

516.  A  Table  showing  the  compliment  of  Officers  and  Crew,  allow- 

ed to  each  class  vessel  in  U.  S.  Navy,         -  314 

517.  A  Table  of  spars,  &c.,  for  all  classes  of  vessels,         -        -        -    313 

518.  A   Table  showing  the  dimensions  and  quality   of   materials, 

used    in    constructing  tops,  trestle-trees,    cross-trees,  and 
caps,  in  U.  S.  Navy,    --------    324 

519.  A  Table  showing  the  complement  and  quality  of  Boats  to  each 

class  vessel  in  U.  S.  Navy.          --____     326 

520.  A  Table  showing  the  weight,  size,  length  and  quality,  of  an- 

chors, cables,  &c.,  allowed  to  the  different  class  vessels  in 

U.  S.  Navy,         -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -    328 

521.  A  Table  showing  the  size,  quantity,  quality,  and  number  of 

sails,  allowed  to  each  class  vessel  U.  S.  Navy,     -  332 

522.  A  Table  showing  the  quantity  of  canvass,  rope,  &c..  allowed 

for  one  suit  of  sails,  for  each  class  of  vessel  U.  S.  Navy,       -    336 

523.  A  Table  showing  the  length  and  size  of  standing  and  running- 

rigging,  for  all  classes  of  vessels  in  U.  S.  Navy,  with  mis- 
cellaneous articles,       ........     340 

524.  A  Table  showing  the  size,  and  description,  of  the  different 

named  Blocks,  for  all  classes  of  vessels  in  U.  S.  Navy,        -    364 

525.  A  Table  showing  the  projective  distances  from  the  spar-deck 

of  U.  S.  Ship  North  Carolina. -     3S4 

526.  A  Table  showing  the  weight  of  armament,  stores,  ouifits  arid 

provisions,  of  U.  S.  sloop  of  war  Albany     -  3SG 

527.  Recipe  for  blacking  Ships'  standing-rigging,     -  389 

528.  do  for  blacking  guns,  -         .......  339 

529.  do  for  blacking  hammock-cloths,  yards,  and  bends,      -        -  389 

530.  "  for  making  Liquod  Blacking,  ......  390 

531.  "      for  blacking  guns,  2nd.,        ' 390 

532.  "  Composition  for  blackinsr  guns,        -----  390 

533.  "      for  making  Black  Varnish,  No.  1, 390 

534.  for  making  Composition  for  blacking  hammock  cloths,  No.  I,   390 


20  CONTENTS. 

Number.  Pago 

535.  Recipe  for  making   Composition  for   blacking  hammock 

cloths  No.  2, 391 

536.  "                              "                       "               "            "     No.  3,  391 

537.  "                               "                        "                "            "     No.  4,  391 

538.  "      for  making  Black  Varnish,  No.  2, 391 

539.  "      for  making  Solder  for  Copper,         -        -                 -        -  391 

540.  "                "            "        for  Lead, 392 

541.  "       To  make  the  best  drying  Oil, 392 

542.  "      for  Black  Stain, 392 

543.  "      for  blacking  Guns  and  Shot,   ....                 -  392 

544.  French  Recipe  for  blacking  Guns,    -                -  T93 


THE    KEDGE-ANCHOR. 


We  shall  first  commence  with  knotting  a  rope-yarn. 

1.— TO  KNOT  ROPE-YARNS. 

Take  the  two  ends  of  the  yarns,  and  split  them  open  about 
two  inches  from  the  end ;  and  if  to  make  a  smooth  knot,  you 
may  scrape  down  a  little  with  a  knife,  so  as  to  make  the  ends 
lay  smooth  ;  you  then  crutch  them  together  as  you  see  in  Plate 
rso.  1.  Take  two  opposite  ends  (leaving  the  other  two  dormant), 
pass  one  of  the  ends  under,  and  the  other  over  the  standing  part 
of  the  yarn,  connecting  them  together  at  the  same  side  you  took 
them  from  at  first ;  then  jam  your  knot  taut,  and  see  if  it  will 
stand  test  by  stretching  the  yarn  from  knee  to  knee,  and  hauling 
on  it ;  if  it  stands  without  drawing,  you  may  trim  the  ends,  and 
go  on. 


2 — TO  MAKE  A  FOX. 

Take  two  or  three  rope-yarns  and  make  them  fast  to  a  belay- 
ing-pin ;  stretch  them  out  taut,  and  twist  them  together  on  your 
knee ;  then  rub  it  down  smooth  with  a  piece  of  old  tarred  par- 
celling. This  is  called  a  Fox,  and  is  used  for  many  purposes, 
such  as  making  gaskets,  mats,  plats,  temporary  seizings,  bend- 
ing studding-sails,  &c. 


3.— TO  MAKE  A  SPANISH  FOX. 

Take  a  single  rope-yarn  and  make  one  end  fast  as  before  to  a 
belaying-pin,  and  untwist  and  twist  it  up  again  the  contrary  way, 
and  rub  it  smooth.  This  is  used  for  small  seizings,  &c. 


22  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


4.— TO  MAKE  A  KNITTLE. 

A  Knittle  is  made  of  two  or  three  rope-yarns  laid  up  togethei 
by  hand,  twisting  them  between  the  thumb  and  finger,  and  lay- 
ing them  up  against  the  twist  of  the  yarn.  They  are  used  foi 
many  purposes  on  board  a  ship,  particularly  for  hammock  clews. 


5.— OVERHANDED  KNOT. 

To  make  an  overhanded  knot,  you  pass  the  end  of  the  rope 
over  the  staailing  part  and  through  the  bight. 


6.— FIGURE  OF  EIGHT  KNOTS. 

Take  the  end  of  your  rope  round  the  standing  part,  under  its 
own  part  and  through  the  lower  bight,  and  your  knot  is  made. 


7._TWO  HALF-HITCHES. 

Pass  the  end  of  your  rope  round  the  standing  part,  arid  bring 
it  up  through  the  bight — this  is  one  half-hitch ;  two  of  these, 
one  above  the  other,  completes  it. 


8.— REEF,  OR  SQUARE  KNOT. 

First  make  an  overhanded  knot  round  a  yard,  spar,  or  any- 
thing you  please ;  then  bring  the  end  being  next  to  you  over  the 
.eft  hand  and  through  the  bight ;  haul  both  ends  taut,  and  it  is 
made. 


9.— A  BOWLINE  KNOT. 

Take  the  end  of  the  rope  in  your  right  hand,  and  the  standing 
par*,  in  the  left — lay  the  end  over  the  standing  part,  then  with 
your  left  hand  turn  the  bight  of  the  standing  part  over  the  end 
part,  so  as  to  form  a  cuckold's  neck  on  the  standing  part ;  then 


lead  the  end  through  the  standing  part  above,  and  stick  it  down 
thro  igh  the  cuckold's  neck,  and  it  will  J 


appear  as  in  the  Plate. 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  23 


10.— BOWLINE  ON  THE  BIGHT. 

Take  the  bight  of  the  rope  m  your  right  hand,  and  the  stand- 
ing part  in  the  other ;  throw  a  cuckold's  neck  over  the  bight  with 
the  standing  parts,  then  haul  enough  of  the  bight  up  through  the 
cuckold's  neck  to  go  under  and  over  all  parts ;  jam  all  taut,  and 
it  will  appear  as  in  the  Plate. 


11.— A  RUNNING  BOWLINE. 

Take  the  end  of  the  rope  round  the  standing  part,  through 
the  bight,  and  make  a  single  bowline  upon  the  running  part, 
and  the  knot  is  made. 


12.— A  TIMBER  HITCH. 

Take  the  end  of  a  rope  round  a  spar  ;  pass  it  under  and  over 
the  standing  part  then  pass  several  turns  round  its  own  part 
and  it  is  done. 


13.— A  FISHERMAN'S  BEND. 

With  the  end  of  a  rope  tak  e  two  round  turns  round  a  spar,  or 
through  the  ring  of  a  kedge-anchor ;  take  one  half  hitch  around 
the  standing  parts,  and  under  all  parts  of  the  turns ;  then  one 
half  hitch  around  the  standing  part  above  all,  and  stop  the  end 
to  the  standing  part ;  or  you  can  dispense  with  the  last  half 
hitch,  and  tuck  the  end  under  one  of  the  round  turns,  and  it  be- 
comes a  studding-sail  bend. 


14.— A  ROLLING  BEND. 

A  rolling  bend  is  something  similar  to  a  fisherman's  bend.  It 
is  two  round  turns  round  a  spar  as  you  see  in  the  plate,  two  half 
hitches  around  the  standing  part,  and  the  end  stopped  back.— 
(See  Plate.) 


.     15 — A  CARRICK  BEND. 

This  bend  is  more  used  in  bending  hawsers  together  than  foi 
y  other  purpose.     In  forming  this  bend  you  will  take  the  end 


24  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

of  the  hawser,  and  form  a  bight,  by  laying  the  end  part  on  the 
top  of  the  standing  part,  so  as  to  form  a  cross ;  take  the  end  of 
the  other  hawser,  and  reeve  it  down  through  this  bight,  up  and 
over  this  cross  ;  then  pass  the  end  down  through  the  bight  again 
on  the  opposite  side,  from  the  other  end,  for  one  end  must  be  on 
the  top,  and  the  other  underneath,  as  you  see  in  the  plate. 

If  both  end  parts  come  out  at  the  top  it  will  be  a  granny's 
knot.     (Remember  this.} 


16.— A  CAT'S-PAW. 

This  is  generally  used  in  the  ends  of  lanyards,  to  hook  the 
tackle  to,  in  setting  up  rigging :  to  form  it,  you  first  lay  the  end 
part  of  the  lanyard  across  the  standing  part,  which  will  form  a 
bight ;  then  lay  hold  of  the  bight  with  one  hand  on  each  side  ol 
it,  breaking  it  down,  and  turning  it  overborn  you  two  or  three 
times ;  clap  both  bights  together,  and  hook  on  to  both  parts. — 
(See  Plate.} 


17.— A  SHEET  OR  BECKET  BEND. 

Pass  the  end  of  a  rope  through  the  bight  of  another  rope,  or 
through  the  becket  of  a  block  ;  then  round  both  parts  of  the  bight, 
or  becket,  and  take  the  end  under  its  own  part,  as  you  see  in 
the  plate.  It  is  sometimes  put  under  twice,  and  the  end  stopped 
back  to  the  standing  part. 


18.— A  BLACK-WALL  HITCH. 

This  is  used  with  a  lanyard,  in  setting  up  rigging,  to  liook  a 
luff  tackle  to,  instead  of  a  cat's  paw,  where  the  end  of  the  lan- 
yard is  not  long  enough  to  form  a  paw  ;  but  a  strap  and  toggle  is 
preferable  to  both. 

To  make  a  black-wall  over  a  hcok,  you  form  a  bight,  or  rather 
a  kink  with  the  end  of  the  lanyard,  having  the  end  part  under- 
neath, and  the  standing  part  on  the  top ;  stick  the  hook  through 
the  bight,  keeping  the  bight  well  up  on  the  back  of  the  hook  (as 
you  see  in  the  plate),  until  you  set  taut  the  tackle. 

Note. — You  can  learn  it  much  better  by  practice  than  expla- 
nation. 


Bending,  Hitching,  Splicing,  &c. 


OR   YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  25 

19.— A  ROLLING  HITCH. 

With  the  end  of  a  rope  take  a  half-hitch  around  the  stand 
ing  part  ;  then  take  another  through  the  same  bight,  jaming  it 
in  above  the  first  hitch  and  the  upper  part  of  the  bight,  then  haul 
it  taut,  and  dog  your  end  above  the  hitch,  around  the  stand- 
insr  part,  or  you  may  take  a  half-hitch  around  the  standing  part 
and  stop  the  end  back  with  a  yarn. 


2O.— A  SALVAGES  STRAP. 

To  make  a  salvagee  strap,  you  may  get  a  couple  of  spike 
nails,  and  drive  them  into  an  old  piece  of  plank,  or  whatever 
you  can  find  convenient  to  answer  the  purpose,  or  get  two  hooks, 
lash  them  to  any  convenient  place,  as  far  apart  as  the  length 
you  intend  to  make  the  strap ;  take  the  end  of  the  ball  of  rope- 
yarns,  and  make  it  fast  to  one  of  the  spikes  or  hooks,  then  take 
it  round  the  other  one,  and  keep  passing  the  rope-yarn  round  and 
round  in  this  manner,  hauling  every  turn  taut  as  you  pass  it, 
until  it  is  as  stout  as  you  wish  it  to  be. 

If  it  is  to  be  a  very  large  strap,  marl  it  down  with  stout  spun- 
yarn  ;  if  of  middling  size,  marl  with  two  single  rope-yarns  ;  if  a 
small  strap,  a  single  rope-yarn. 


21.— A  PUDDING  FOR  A  MAST  OR  YARD. 

Take  a  piece  of  rope  of  the  required  length,  and  splice  an  eye 
In  each  end  ;  get  it  on  a  stretch,  worm  it,  and  then  parcel  it  accord- 
ing to  the  shape  you  want  it.  They  are  generally  made  as  you 
see  in  the  Plate,  large  in  the  middle,  tapering  gradually  toward 
the  ends,  and  made  flat  on  the  side  that  goes  next  the  yard  or 
i^ast.  When  you  have  got  it  the  size  required,  marl  it  down, 
commencing  in  the  middle  and  marling  both  ways  until  you 
come  to  the  eye ;  if  it  is  intended  for  a  yard  it  is  generally  covered 
with  thick  leather  or  green  hide;  if  for  a  mast,  it  is  pointed  over 
for  neatness 


22.— A  SHORT  SPLICE. 

To  splice  the  two  ends  of  a  rope  together,  you  first  unlay  the 
rope  to  a  sufficient  length,  then  crutch  them  together  as  you  see 
in  the  plate ;  you  must  then  lay  hold  of  the  three  strands  next 
to  you  in  your  left  hand,  holding  them  solid  around  the  other 
part  until  you  stick  the  three  upper  ends,  or,  if  it  is  a  large  rope, 
3 


20  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

you  may  stop  the  ends  with  a  yarn  ;  then  take  the  upper  or  mid- 
dle end,  pass  it  over  the  first  strand  next  to  it,  stick  it  underneath 
the  second  strand,  and  haul  it  taut  in  the  lay  of  the  rope ;  turn 
the  rope  a  little  towards  you,  and  stick  the  second  end  as  you 
did  the  first;  the  third  in  the  same  manner,  hauling  them  taut 
along-  the  lay  of  the  rope ; — turn  the  rope  round,  stick  the  other 
three  ends  in  the  same  manner,  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the 
plate. 

Note. — If  you  intend  to  serve  over  the  ends,  you  need  not  stick 
them  but  once  ;  but  if  not  you  must  stick  them  twice,  and  cross- 
whip  them  across  the  strands  so  as  to  make  them  more  secure. 
If  the  ends  are  to  be  served,  take  a  few  of  the  underneath  yarns, 
enough  to  fill  up  the  lay  of  the  rope  for  worming,  then  scrape  or 
trim  the  outside  ends,  and  marl  them  down  ready  for  serving. 


23.— A  LONG  SPLICE. 

To  make  a  long  splice,  unlay  the  ends  of  two  ropes  to  a  suffi- 
cient length,  crutch  them  together  in  the  same  manner  as  a  short 
splice;  unlay  one  strand  for  a  considerable  length,  and  fill  up 
the  space  which  it  leaves  with  the  opposite  strand  next  to  it ;  then 
turn  the  rope  round  and  lay  hold  of  the  two  next  strands  that 
will  come  opposite  their  respective  lays,  unlay  one  and  fill  up 
with  the  other  as  before  ;  then  cut  off  the  long  strands,  and  it  will 
appear  as  in  the  Plate. 

To  complete  this  splice,  you  will  split  the  strands  equally  in 
two,  then  take  the  two  opposite  half  strands  and  knot  them 
together,  so  as  to  fill  up  the  vacant  lay ;  then  you  stick  the  ends 
twice  under  two  strands  with  all  six  o*f  the  half  strands,  leaving 
the  other  six  neutral ;  then  stretch  the  splice  well  before  you  cut 
the  ends  off,  and  it  is  finished. 


24 EYE-SPLICE. 

An  eye-splice  is  made  by  opening  the  end  of  a  rope,  and  laying 
the  strands  at  any  distance  upon  the  standing  part  of  the  rope, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  eye-splice  you  intend  to  make ;  you 
then  divide  your  strands  by  putting  one  strand  on  the  top  and 
one  underneath  the  standing  part,  then  take  the  middle  strand, 
(having  previously  opened  the  lay  with  a  marlinespike,)  and 
stick  it  under  its  respective  strand,  as  you  see  in  the  Plate.  Your 
next  end  is  taken  over  the  first  strand  and  under  the  second ;  the 
third  and  last  end  is  taken  through  the  third  strand  on  the  othe/ 
side. 


OR   YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


25.— A  CUT  SPLICE. 

Cut  a  rope  in  two,  and  according  to  the  size  you  intend  to  make 
the  splice  or  collar — lay  the  end  of  one  rope  on  the  standing  part 
of  the  other,  and  stick  the  end  through  between  the  strands,  in 
the  same  manner  as  an  eye-splice,  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the 
plate.  This  forms  a  collar  in  the  bight  of  a  rope,  and  is  used  for 
pendants,  jib-guys,  breast-backstays,  odd  shrouds,  &c. 


26.— A  FLEMISH  EYE. 

Unlay  the  end  of  a  rope,  open  the  strands  and  separate  every 
yarn,  divide  them  in  two  halves,  then  take  a  piece  of  round  wood 
the  size  you  intend  to  make  the  eye,  and  half-knot  about  one-half 
of  the  inside  yarns  over  the  piece  of  wood ;  scrape  the  remainder 
down  over  the  others ;  marl,  parcel,  and  serve,  or  if  preferable, 
hitch  it  with  hambro-line.  This  makes  a  snug  eye  for  the  collars 
Df  stays.  (See  Plate.} 


27.— AN  ARTIFICIAL  EYE. 

Take  the  end  of  a  rope  and  unlay  one  strand  to  a  certain  dis- 
tance, and  form  the  eye  by  placing  the  two  strands  along  the 
standing  part  of  the  rope  and  stopping  them  fast  to  it ;  then  take 
the  odd  strand  and  cross  it  over  the  standing  part,  and  lay  it  into 
the  vacant  place  you  took  it  from  at  first;  work  around  the  eye, 
filling  up  the  vacant  strand  until  it  comes  out  at  the  crutch  again, 
and  lies  under  the  other  two  strands;  the  ends  are  tapered, 
scraped  down,  marled,  and  served  over  with  spun-yarn. 


28.— TO  WORM  AND  SERVE  A  ROPE. 

Worming  a  rope,  is  to  fill  up  the  vacant  space  between  the 
strands  of  the  rope  with  spun-yarn ;  this  is  done  in  order  to 
strengthen  it,  and  to  render  the  surface  smooth  and  round  for 
parceling. 

Parceling  a  rope  is  wrapping  old  canvass  round  it,  cut  in  strips 
from  two  to  three  inches  wide,  according  to  the  size  of  the  rope ; 
the  strips  of  canvass  to  be  well  tarred  and  rolled  up  in  rolls  before 
you  commence  to  lay  it  on  the  rope.  The  service  is  of  spun- 
yarn,  clapped  on  by  a  wooden  mallet  such  as  you  see  in  the  piate, 
called  a  serving  mallet;  it  has  a  large  score  cut  in  the  under  part 
of  it,  so  as  to  fay  on  the  rope,  arid  a  handle  about  a  foot  long,  OT 


28  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

according  to  the  size  of  the  mallet.  The  service  is  always  laid 
on  against  the  lay  of  the  rope ;  a  boy  passes  the  ball  of  spun-yarn 
at  some  distance  from  the  man  that  is  serving  the  rope,  and 
passes  it  round  as  he  turns  the  mallet ;  when  the  required  length 
of  service  is  put  on,  the  end  is  put  under  the  three  or  four  la?* 
turns  of  the  service  and  hauled  taut. 

Note. — It  has  always  been  customary  to  put  on  parceling  wit! 
the  lay  of  the  rope  in  all  cases ;  but  rigging  that  you  do  not  intend 
to  serve  over,  the  parceling  ought  to  be  put  on  the  contrary  way, 


29.— TO  CLAP  ON  A  THROAT  AND  QUARTER  SEIZING. 

Splice  an  eye  in  one  end  of  the  seizing,  and  take  the  other  end 
round  both  parts  of  the  rope  that  the  seizing  is  to  be  put  on  ;  then 
reeve  it  through  the  eye,  pass  a  couple  of  turns  and  heave  them 
hand-taut ;  then  make  a  inarlinespike-liitch  on  the  seizing,  by 
taking  a  turn  with  the  seizing  over  the  marlinespike,  and  laying 
the  end  over  the  standing  part ;  push  the  marlinespike  down 
through,  then  under  the  standing  part  and  up  through  the  bight 
again.  Heave  taut  the  two  turns  of  the  seizing  with  the  spike  ; 
pass  the  rest  and  heave  them  taut  in  the  same  manner,  making 
six,  eight,  or  ten  turns,  according  to  the  size  of  the  rope  ;  then  pass 
the  end  through  the  last  turn,  and  pass  the  riding  turns,  fiv7e, 
seven,  or  nine,  always  laying  one  less  of  the  riding  than  of  the 
first  turns ;  these  should  not  be  hove  too  taut — the  end  is  now 
passed  up  through  the  seizing,  and  two  cross-turns  taken  between 
the  two  parts  of  the  rope,  and  round  the  seizing  ;  take  the  end 
under  the  last  turn  and  heave  it  taut ;  make  an  overhanded  knot 
on  the  end  of  the  seizing,  and  cut  off  close  to  the  knot. 

Note. — When  this  is  put  on  the  end  of  a  rope,  and  round  the 
standing  part,  it  is  called  an  end-seizing  ;  if  on  the  two  parts 
below  the  end,  a  middle  or  quarter-seizing.  A  throat-seizing  is 
passed  the  same  way,  but  is  not  crossed  with  the  end  of  the 
seizing. 


3O.— TO  MAKE  A  TURK'S  HEAD. 

Turk's  heads  are  made  on  man-ropes,  and  sometimes  on  the 
foot-ropes  of  jib-booms  in  place  of  an  overhanded  knot,  as  the 
Turk's  head  is  much  neater  than  the  knot,  and  considered  by 
some  an  ornament.  It  is  generally  made  of  small  white  line. 
Take  a  round  turn  round  the  rope  you  intend  to  make  the  Turk:s 
head  on, — cross  the  bights  on  each  side  of  the  round  turn,  and 
stick  one  end  under  one  cross,  and  the  other  under  the  other 
cross  ;  it  will  then  be  formed  like  the  middle  figure  in  the  plate, 


Buoy  Rope  Knot. 


Knotting,  Serving,  Worm  111°;  &c. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  29 

after  which  follow  the  lead  until  it  shows  three  parts  all  round, 
and  it  is  completed. 


31 TO  SHEEPSHANK  A  ROPE  OR  BACKSTAY. 

This  is  intended  for  shortening  a  backstay ;  the  rope  is  doubled 
in  three  parts,  as  you  see  in  the  Plate,  and  a  hitch  taken  over 
each  bight  with  the  standing  part  of  the  backstay  and  jamed 


& 
taut. 


32.— TO  PUT  A  STRAND  IN  A  ROPE. 

This  is  done  in  case  of  one  strand  of  a  rope  getting  chafed  or 
magged,  and  the  other  two  remaining  good.  To  perform  this, 
you  take  your  knife  and  cut  the  strand  at  the  place  where  it  is 
chafed,  and  unlay  it  about  a  couple  of  feet  each  way ;  then  take 
a  strand  of  a  rope  as  near  the  size  as  possible,  and  lay  it  in  the 
vacancy  of  the  rope,  (as  you  see  in  the  Plate,)  and  stick  the  ends 
the  same  as  a  long  splice. 


33.— TO  WALL  AND  CROWN. 

Unlay  the  end  of  a  rope,  and  with  the  three  strands  form  a 
wall  knot,  by  taking  the  first  strand  and  forming  a  bight ;  take 
the  next  strand,  and  bring  it  round  the  end  of  the  first,  the  third 
strand  round  the  second,  and  up  through  the  bight  of  the  first — 
this  is  a  wall.  (See  Plate.) 

To  crown  this,  lay  one  end  over  the  top  of  the  knot,  which 
call  the  first,  then  lay  the  second  over  it,  the  third  over  the  second, 
and  through  the  bight  of  the  first.  It  will  then  appear  as  you 
see  in  Plate  No.  3. 


34.— TO  MAKE  A  MATHEW  WALKER. 

A  Mathew  Walker  is  made  by  opening  the  end  of  a  rope,  and 
taking  the  first  strand  round  the  rope  and  through  its  own  bight; 
then  take  the  second  end  round  the  rope  underneath,  through  the 
bight  of  the  first,  and  through  its  own  bight;  the  third  end  take 
round  the  same  way,  underneath  and  through  the  bights  of  all 
three.  Haul  the  ends  well  taut,  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the 
Plate.  This  is  a  good  lanyard  knot,  if  well  made. 


30  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

35.— A  SPRITSAIL  SHEET  KNOT. 

Unlay  two  ends  of  a  rope,  and  place  the  two  parts  which  aie 
unlaid  together ;  form  a  bight  with  one  strand,  and  wall  the  six 
together  against  the  lay  of  the  rope,  (which  is  hawser-laid,)  the 
same  as  you  would  a  single  wall  with  three  ends  ;  after  you  have 
walled  with  the  six  ends,  haul  them  taut ;  you  must  then  crown 
with  the  six  ends,  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the  Plate.  To  com- 
plete it,  you  must  follow  the  lead  of  the  parts,  and  double  wall 
and  crown  it. 

This  knot  is  frequently  used  in  old-fashioned  ships  as  a  stop- 
per knot. 


36.— A  SHROUD  KNOT. 

Unlay  the  ends  of  two  ropes  and  place  them  one  within  the 
other,  the  same  as  you  commence  to  make  a  short  splice  ;  then 
single  wall  the  ends  of  one  rope  round  the  standing  part  of  the 
other,  and  then  wall  the  other  three  ends  in  the  same  manner ; 
the  ends  are  opened  out,  tapered  down,  and  served  over  with 
spun-yarn.  This  knot  is  used  when  a  shroud  is  either  shot  or 
carried  away. 


37.— A  FRENCH  SHROUD  KNOT. 

Place  the  ends  of  two  ropes  as  before,  drawing  them  close 
together ;  then  lay  the  first  three  ends  back  upon  their  own  part, 
and  single  wall  the  other  three  ends  round  the  bights  of  the  other 
three  and  the  standing  part ;  it  will  then  appear  like  the  figure  in 
the  Plate.  The  ends  are  tapered  as  the  other.  This  knot  is  much 
neater  than  the  common  shroud  knot. 


38.— SINGLE  DIAMOND  KNOT. 

Unlay  the  end  of  a  rope  a  sufficient  length  to  make  the  knot, 
and  with  the  three  strands  form  three  bights,  holding  the  ends 
fast  down  the  side  of  the  rope  in  your  left  hand,  with  the  stand- 
ing part  of  the  rope  ;  then  take  the  first  strand  over  the  bight  of 
the  second  strand  and  through  the  bight  of  the  third ;  then  take 
the  second  over  the  third  and  through  the  bight  of  the  first ;  then 
the  third,  over  the  first  and  through  the  second.  Haul  these  taut 
and  lay  the  ends  of  the  strands  up  again,  and  it  will  appear  as  in 
the  Plate.  This  knot  is  used  for  jib-boom  foot-ropes,  man-ror^, 

&C. 


OR.    YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT 


39.— DOUBLE  DIAMOND  KNOT. 

To  make  this,  you  make  a  single  one  as  before ;  then  take  a 
marlhiespike  and  open  the  strands,  and  follow  the  lead  through 
two  single  bights,  the  ends  coming  out  at  the  top  of  the  knot; 
lay  the  ends  of  the  strands  up  as  before,  and  it  will  appear  as  in 
the  Plate. 


40.— A  STOPPER  KNOT 

Is  made  by  double -walling  and  crowning,  which  has  been 
described  before  on  another  page.  The  ends,  if  very  short,  are 
whipped  without  being  laid  up;  but  if  long  they  are  laid  up  and 
stopped. 


41 — A  BUOY-ROPE  KNOT. 

Unlay  the  strands  of  a  cable-laid  rope,  take  one  strand  out  of 
the  large  ones,  and  then  lay  the  three  large  ones  up  again  aa 
before ;  take  the  three  small  ones  which  were  left  out,  single  and 
double  them  round  the  standing  part  of  the  rope  ;  then  take  youi 
spare  ends,  worm  them  along  the  lay  and  stop  them. 


42.— COMMON  SENNIT. 

Sennit  is  made  by  plaiting  rope-yarns  together.     (See  Plate 
No.  4.) 


43.— A  SEA   GASKET. 

A  sea  gasket  is  made  by  taking  three  or  four  foxes,  according 
to  the  size  you  intend  to  make  the  gasket.  Middle  them  over 
a  belaying-pin,  and  plait  three  or  four  together,  long  enough  to 
make  the  eye ;  then  clasp  both  parts  together  to  form  the  eye  j 
then  plait  it  by  bringing  the  outside  foxes  on  each  side  alternately 
over  to  the  middle  ;  the  outside  one  is  laid  with  the  right  hand, 
and  the  remainder  held  steadily — work  the  whole  together,  add- 
ing a  fox  when  necessary.  When  you  have  got  it  a  sufficient 
length,  diminish  by  dropping  a  fox  at  proper  intervals.  To  finish 
it,  you  must  lay  one  end  up,  leaving  its  bight  down  ;  then  plait  the 
others  through  this  bight  about  one  Inch ;  haul  the  bight  taut 
to  secure  all  parts— cut  the  ends  off,  whip  it,  and  it  is  completed. 


32  riJE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

44.— A   PANCH,  OK  WROUGHT   MAT. 

A  piece  of  six  or  nine-thread  stuff  is  stretched  in  a  horizontal 
direction,  and  the  foxes  (according  to  the  breadth  you  intend  to 
make  the  mat)  are  middled  and  hung  over  it ;  then  take  the  fox 
nearest  the  left  hand  and  twist  a  turn  in  the  two  parts,  and  one 
part  give  to  the  man  opposite  (two  men  being  employed  to  work 
the  mat) ;  the  next  fox  has  a  turn  twisted  in  its  two  parts,  and 
one  part  given  back  to  your  partner  ;  the  remainder  are  twisted 
round  the  first  which  are  given  back,  and  then  again  round  its 
own  part,  and  so  on  with  the  remainder  of  the  foxes,  until  you 
get  it  the  breadth  you  wish.  At  the  bottom  of  the  mat  selvedge 
it  by  taking  a  piece  of  nine-thread  stuff,  the  same  as  you  used 
for  the  top.  The  two  parts  of  the  foxes  which  are  twisted  to- 
gether at  the  bottom  are  divided,  and  the  nine-thread  put  between 
them  ;  the  foxes  are  hitched  round  it,  and  the  end  put  through  its 
own  lay  with  a  marlinespike ;  trim  the  ends  off,  and  thrum  it 
with  pieces  of  old  strands  of  rope,  cut  in  pieces  about  three  or 
four  inches  long ;  open  the  lays  of  the  foxes  with  a  marlinespike. 
push  the  thrums  through  the  lays,  and  open  the  ends  out. 


45.— HARBOR  GASKET,  OR  FRENCH   SENNIT. 

A  harbor  gasket  is  made  writh  foxes,  something  similar  to  the 
common  sea  gasket, — but  instead  of  taking  the  outside  fox  over 
all  the  rest,  and  bringing  it  into  the  middle,  you  interweave  it 
bet\veen  them  by  taking  the  outside  fox  of  both  sides,  and  taking 
it  over  one  and  under  the  other,  working  it  towards  the  middle, 
the  same  as  common  sennit. 


46.— POINTING  A  ROPE. 

Unlay  the  end  of  the  rope  a  sufficient  length  for  pointing,  and 
stop  it ;  open  the  strands  out  into  yarns,  and  take  out  as  many 
as  you  think  it  will  require  to  make  the  knittles,  by  splitting  the 
yarns  and  making  one  knittle  out  of  every  outside  yarn ;  when 
they  are  made,  stop  them  back  on  the  standing  part  of  the  rope ; 
then  form  the  point  with  the  rest  of  the  yarns,  by  trimming  and 
scraping  them  down  to  a  proper  size,  and  marl  it  dowrn  with 
twine — divide  the  knittles,  taking  every  other  one  up  and  every 
other  one  down ;  then  take  a  piece  of  twine,  called  the  warp,  and 
with  it  pass  these  turns  very  taut,  taking  a  hitch  with  the  last 
turn  every  time  you  pass  the  wrarp,  or  filling.  Then  take  the 
knittles  which  are  up  and  bring  them  down,  and  the  ones  which 
are  down,  up ;  hauling  them  taut,  and  passing  the  warp  every 


OR   YO'JNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  33 

nine  over  the  lower  knittles  ;  proceed  in  this  manner  until  you 
get  almost  to  the  end,  reserving  enough  of  the  knittles  to  finish  it 
with ;  leave  out  every  other  bight  of  the  knittles  of  the  last  lay, 
and  pass  the  warp  through  the  bight,  haul  them  taut  and  cut 
them  off.  A  becket  is  sometimes  worked  in  the  end. 

Note. — Knittles  are  made  by  laying  rope-yarns  together,  with 
your  finger  and  thumb,  against  the  twist  of  the  yarn. 

Snaking  is  for  the  better  securing  of  a  seizing,  which  is  passed 
round  the  single  part  of  the  rope  and  therefore  cannot  be  crossed. 
It  is  done  by  tucking  the  end  part  of  the  seizing  under  and  over 
the  lower  and  upper  turns  of  the  seizing. 


47.— TO  MAKE  A  GROMMET. 

A  grommet  is  made  by  unlaying  a  strand  of  a  rope  and  placing 
one  part  over  the  other ;  with  the  long  end  follow  the  lay,  until  it 
forms  a  ring,  with  three  parts  of  the  strand  all  round ;  finish  it  by 
knotting  and  sticking  the  ends  the  same  as  a  long  splice.  (Set, 
plate  No.  4.) 

48.— TO   PASS   A  ROSE  LASHING. 

It  is  used  in  lashing  a  strap  or  pudding  round  a  mast  or  yard 
or  the  parral  lashing  of  a  top-gallant  yard ;  this  lashing  is  passed 
cross  way  s  over  and  under  one  eye,  then  under  and  over  the 
other ;  the  end  part  is  afterwards  taken  in  a  circular  form  round 
the  crossing,  and  the  end  tucked  under  the  last  part. 

Note. — This  circular  part  is  done  to  expend  the  end>  instead 
of  cutting  it  off,  so  that  it  will  answer  again  for  the  same  purpose. 


49.— TO   WEAVE  A  SWORD  MAT. 

A  piece  of  wood  called  a  sword  is  used  ;  this  is  put  alternately 
between  the  parts  of  the  spun-yarn  or  sennit,  stretched  over  two 
round  iron  bolts  (as  you  see  in  the  figure) ;  the  warp  of  marline 
is  placed  through  the  parts  which  the  sword  has  opened,  and 
jamed  by  it  close  to  the  head ;  a  piece  of  spun-yarn  is  put  slack 
through  the  same  division  at  the  opposite  end  and  left  there ;  the 
sword  is  taken  out.  passed  under  and  over  the  parts  as  before, 
and  each  end  of  the  warp  passed  and  jamed  taut.  The  piece 
of  spun-yarn  which  was  left  at  the  opposite  end,  is  now  lifted  up, 
and  brings  the  parts  as  they  were  first  divided  by  the  sword  ;  the 
warp  is  passed  as  before,  and  so  on  until  the  mat  is  coniDleted. 


34  s  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

5O.— A  LASHING  CLEAT 

Is  shaped  like  the  figure  in  the  Plate,  having  scores  for  the 
seizings  which  are  marked,  and  a  groove  cut  in  the  part  that  fits 
next  to  the  shroud. 


BLOCKS. 

51.— A  SHELL,  PIN,  AND  SHEAVE. 

Blocks  are  of  different  kinds,  shapes,  and  sizes,  according  to 
the  several  purposes  for  which  they  are  intended. 

A  block  consists  of  a  shell,  sheave,  and  pin ;  and  from  the  num- 
ber of  these  sheaves  it  derives  its  name,  viz. :  a  block  with  one 
sheave  is  called  single ;  with  two  sheaves,  double ;  with  three, 
treble  ;  and  with  four  sheaves  it  is  called  a  four-fold  block.  The 
shell  of  a  block  is  made  of  ash,  and  has  one  or  two  scores  cut  at 
each  end,  according  to  its  size ;  these  scores  are  for  the  purpose 
of  admitting  a  strap,  which  goes  round  the  block,  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  a  hole  for  the  pin  ;  the  shell  is  hollow  inside  to  ad- 
mit the  sheave.  The  sheave  is  a  solid  wheel,  made  of  lignum 
vitse,  iron,  or  brass  ;  in  the  centre  is  a  hole  for  the  pin,  on  which 
it  turns.  The  lignum  vitae  sheave  is  bushed  with  brass  or  iron  ; 
round  the  circumference  a  groove  is  cut,  that  the  rope  which  goes 
over  it  may  play  with  ease.  The  sheave  is  placed  in  the  shell, 
and  the  pin  is  put  through  both  shell  and  sheave,  which  consti- 
tute a  block. 


52.— SINGLE,  DOUBLE,  AND   TREBLE   BLOCKS. 

What  is  termed  a  single  block  has  but  one  sheave,  and  if  in- 
tended for  a  double  strap  there  are  two  scores  on  the  outside  of 
the  shell.  Single  blocks  are  more  used  than  any  other  kind  on 
board  of  a  ship. 

A  double  block  has  an  additional  sheave ;  it  is  otherwise  the 
same  as  a  single  block. 

A  treble  block  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  a  double,  with 
one  more  sheave.  Treble  blocks  are  generally  used  as  purchase 
blocks,  and  strapped  in  the  manner  you  see  in  the  Plate. 


53.— A  SHOULDER  BLOCK. 

A  shoulder  block  is  the  same  as  a  single  block,  with  the  ex- 
ception that  it  has  a  projection  at  the  bottom  of  the  shell,  called 


Gaskets,  Mats,  Blocks,  &c. 


Oil   YOUNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  35 

a  shoulder,  to  prevent  the  rope  that  reeves  through  it  from  jam- 
ing  between  the  block  and  the  yard.  These  blocks  are  mostly 
used  for  bumkin  or  lift  blocks  on  lower  vards. 


54.— A  FIDDLE   BLOCK 

Is  made  like  two  single  blocks  one  above  the  other,  the  uppei 
one  being  the  largest  so  as  to  allow  the  rope  which  is  rove  in  the 
upper  sheave,  to  play  clear  of  the  rope  in  the  under  one.  These 
blocks  are  used  in  places  where  there  is  not  space  enough  for  a 
double  one,  or  where  it  (the  double  block)  would  be  liable  to  split 
by  not  canting  fair,  or  having  room  to  play.  These  blocks  are 
used  for  top  burtons,  &c.  £c. 


55 A  SHOE   BLOCK 

Is  also  made  like  two  single  blocks,  but  the  sheave  of  the  up- 
per one  lies  in  a  contrary  direction  to  that  of  the  lower  one. 
They  are  generally  used  as  buntline  blocks  to  courses  ;  the  bunt- 
line  reeving  in  the  upper  sheave,  and  the  whip  in  the  lower  one. 


56.— A  SISTER  BLOCK 

Has  two  sheave-holes  one  above  the  other, — three  scores  for 
seizings,  one  at  each  end,  and  one  between  both  sheaves ;  they 
are  hollowed  out  on  each  side  of  the  shell,  to  take  the  shroud. 
These  blocks  are  used  as  topsail-lift  and  reef-tackle  blocks,  and 
are  seized-in  between  the  two  forward,  shrouds  of  the  topmast 
rigging,  above  the  futtock  stave.  The  lift  reeves  through  the 
lower  sheave,  and  the  topsail  reef-tackle  through  the  upper  one. 


57 — A  DEAD-EYE 

Is  a  large  round  piece  of  wood  with  three  holes  in  it,  (as  you 
see  in  the  Plate,)  and  a  groove  cut  round  it  for  the  shroud  to  lie 
in.  It  is  used  to  turn  in  the  ends  of  shrouds  and  backstays; — 
the  three  holes  are  used  to  reeve  the  lanyard  through,  when  set- 
ting up  the  shroud  or  backstay. 

A  bull's-eye  is  a  kind  of  thick  wooden  thimble,  with  a  hole 
in  the  centre,  and  a  groove  cut  round  the  outside  for  the  rope  or 
seizing  to  lay  in. 


36  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR  ; 

58.— A  HEART 

Is  a  block  of  wood  with  a  large  hole  in  the  centie,  at  the  bot 
torn  of  which  are  four  or  five  scores,  and  round  the  outside  is  a 
groove  cut  to  admit  a  rope  called  a  stay ;  there  are  other  hearts 
called  collar-hearts,  which  are  open  at  the  lower  ends,  opposite  to 
which  the  lanyard  is  passed.  This  heart  has  a  double  score  cut 
vound  the  outside,  and  two  grooves  cut  on  each  side  for  the  seiz 
ings  to  lay  in,  which  keeps  the  collar  in  the  scores  of  the  heart. 
Hearts  intended  for  bobstays  should  be  made  of  lignum  vitap,  • 
those  made  of  ash  being  liable  to  split. 


59.— A  BELAYING-PIN  RACK 

Is  a  piece  of  wood  with  a  number  of  holes  through  it,  in  whicft 
belaying-pins  are  stuck ;  on  the  back  part  are  several  scores  for 
the  shrouds  to  lie  in  to  which  it  is  seized. 


GO.— A  EUPHROE 

Is  a  long  piece  of  wood,  having  a  number  of  holes,  through 
which  the  legs  of  the  crowfoot  is  rove, — a  score  is  cut  round  it  to 
admit  of  a  strap.  This  is  used  for  the  ridge  of  an  awning. 


61.— A  HORN  CLEAT. 

Horn  cleats  are  used  for  different  purposes  ;  some  are  made  to 
seize  on  to  the  shrouds;  they  are  called  lashing  cleats ;  others 
are  made  to  nail  on  to  different  parts  of  the  bulwarks.  They  are 
of  different  shape  and  size,  and  used  to  belay  various  ropes  to,  in 
all  parts  of  the  ship. 


62 A  33-CLEAT 

Is  a  piece  of  wood  scored  out  inside,  something  like  the  letter 
B,  and  rounded  off  outside ;  they  are  used  for  leading  a  rope 
through,  or  for  keeping  it  in  its  place  on  the  masts,  bowsprit,  dec. 


63.— A  STRAP  FOR  A  BLOCK. 

Straps  are  fitted  in  various  ways,  according  to  the  ase  they  are 
intended  for,  and  according  to  the  size  of  the  block. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  37 

A  common  strap  is  fitted  in  the  following  manner : — 
First,  cut  the  rope  once-and-a-half  the  round  of  the  block,  then 
get  it  on  a  stretch, — worm,  parcel,  and  serve  as  near  the  end  aa 
possible,  not  to  interfere  with  splicing;  then  splice  the  ends 
together  with  a  short  splice,  and  finish  serving  snug  up  to  the 
splice.  Stretch  it  and  cut  the  ends  off,  or  you  may  serve  over 
the  ends,  and  it  will  appear  as  in  the  Plate.  If  there  is  a  num- 
ber of  those  straps  required,  it  would  be  best  to  get  the  rope  on  a 
stretch,  and  serve  off  the  required  number  before  cutting. 


64 — A  TAIL  BLOCK 

Is  strapped  with  an  eye-splice,  snug  round  the  block ;  the  ends 
are  stuck  but  once ;  then  scraped  down,  and  served  over  writh 
spun-yarn.  Clap  on  a  stout  whipping  about  six  inches  from  the 
splice ;  open  the  ends  out,  twist  them  into  foxes,  and  plait  them 
together,  as  mentioned  for  gaskets ;  or,  the  strands  may  be 
opened  out  and  marled  down  salvagee  fashion ;  tapering  it  a 
little  towards  the  end  of  the  tail. 

Note. — Blocks  used  for  jiggers,  have  a  double  tail  made  in  the 
same  manner. 


65.— A  PURCHASE  BLOCK 

Is  double  strapped,  having  two  scores  in  the  shell  for  that  pur- 
pose; the  strap  is  wormed,  parceled,  and  served,  (sometimes  only 
wormed  and  parceled,)  and  spliced  together.  It  is  then  doubled 
so  as  to  bring  the  splice  at  the  bottom  of  the  block.  The  seizing 
is  put  on  the  same  as  any  other ;  the  only  difference  is,  that  it  ia 
crossed  both  ways,  through  the  double  parts  of  the  strap. 

These  block-straps  are  so  large  and  stiff,  that  it  requires  a  pur- 
chase to  set  them  securely  in  the  scores  of  the  block,  and  bring 
them  into  their  proper  place. 


66.— A  TOP  BLOCK 

Is  a  single  iron-bound  hook-block,  with  (generally)  a  brass 
sheave ;  it  hooks  to  an  eye-bolt  in  the  cap.  The  top-pendants 
are  rove  through  the  top-blocks  when  swaying  up  topmasts. 

4 


38  fHE   KEDGE- ANCHOR , 


67.— A  CAT  BLOCK. 

The  cat  block  is  three-fold,  iron-bound,  with  a  large  iron  hook 
attached  to  it,  for  the  purpose  of  hooking  the  ring  of  the  anchot 
when  catting  it. 

On  the  forward  side  of  the  shell  of  this  block  are  two  small 
eye-bolts,  for  the  purpose  of  fitting  a  small  rope,  called  the  back- 
rope  bridle,  used  in  hooking  the  cat. 


68.— A  SNATCH  BLOCK 

Is  generally  iron-bound,  with  a  swivel  hook ;  an  iron  clasp  is 
fitted  on  the  iron  band,  or  strap,  with  a  hinge  to  go  over  the 
snatch,  and  toggles  on  the  opposite  side,  as  you  see  in  the  Plate. 
The  bight  of  a  hawser  or  large  rope  is  placed  in  this  block,  when 
warping  the  ship,  &c. 

Note. — There  has  been  of  late  years  several  different  improve- 
ments made  on  these  blocks. 

Blocks  of  this  description,  and  of  a  large  size,  are  generally 
termed  "  viol,  or  rouse-about  blocks." 


69 — A  NUN  BUOY. 

Buoys  are  used  when  a  ship  is  riding  at  anchor,  to  denote  the 
position  of  the  anchor.  They  are  a  kind  of  a  cask,  large  in  the 
middle,  and  small  at  both  ends ;  hooped  close  with  iron  hoops, 
and  strapped  with  rope  well  served.  A  buoy-strap  is  cut  nine 
times  the  length  of  the  buoy ;  this  is  sufficient  to  make  the  slings 
and  hoops  ;  l,he  slings  have  an  eye  spliced  in  each  end,  the  hoops 
are  rove  through  these  eyes,  spliced  together,  and  fitted  on  the 
buoy,  as  you  see  in  the  Plate. 


TO.— TO  BEND  A  BUOY-ROPE. 

The  buoy  rope  is  made  fast  with  a  clove-hitch  round  the  arms 
of  the  anchor,  close  up  to  the  crown,  and  the  end  part  stopped 
along  the  shank,  with  one  or  two  stops. 

Some  are  fitted  with  a  running  eye,  and  when  used  this  way 
the  running  eye  is  rove  round  one  arm,  a  hitch  taken  over  the 
Mher,  and  seized  in  the  cross. 


Blocks,  Purchases,  &c.  &c. 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  39 

111  large  ships  they  are  fitted  with  pendants  and  slip  buoy- 
-opes ;  the  pendants  have  a  large  thimble  spliced  in  one  end, 
.arge  enough  to  receive  a  stout  hawser,  in  case  you  should  want 
to  purchase  the  anchor  by  the  buoy-rope.  The  size  for  the  slip 
buoy-rope  is  one- third  the  size  of  the  proper  buoy-rope. 


71 TO  PUDDING  THE  RING  OF  AN  ANCHOR. 

The  ring  of  the  anchor  is  well  tarred,  and  parceled  writh  tarred 
canvass  ;  then  a  number  of  lengths  of  old  rope  are  cut  three  times 
the  diameter  of  the  ring ;  these  are  laid  on  the  ring,  and  stopped 
by  a  temporary  seizing  in  the  middle  ;  they  are  then  placed  fair 
by  hand  round  the  rings,  as  you  see  in  the  Plate. 

When  one  or  "two  turns  of  rattling-stuff  is  taken  round  all 
parts,  and  a  heaver  put  through  it,  it  is  hove  well  round,  which 
stretches  all  parts  snug  round  the  ring.  After  it  is  all  hove  on 
neatly,  put  on  the  seizings,  four  in  number.  (See  Plate.) 


72.— A  JACOB:S  LADDER. 

These  ladders  are  used  in  many  different  parts  of  a  ship  of 
\var  ;  they  are  used  for  stern  ladders,  rigging  ladders,  and  on  the 
swinging  booms  in  harbor,  &c.  There  are  several  different 
ways  of  making  them ;  some  are  made  salvagee  fashion,  and 
covered ;  others  are  made  of  four-stranded  rope,  and  have  the 
rounds  put  through  between  the  strands  of  the  rope.  But  the 
most  general  way  of  making  these  ladders,  is  to  take  some  small 
rope,  (about  two-inch  stuff,)  and  make  two  straps  the  length  you 
intend  to  make  the  ladder,  and  splice  them  together  with  a  short- 
long-splice.  The  straps  being  made,  get  them  on  a  stretch  both 
together,  and  see  if  they  bear  an  equal  strain ;  if  not,  shorten  one 
strap,  so  as  to  make  both  alike.  Take  a  piece  of  chalk  and  mark 
off  where  you  intend  the  rounds  to  go,  about  fifteen  inches  apart. 

.The  rounds  are  pieces  of  round  wood,  about  two  inches  in 
diameter,  of  the  length  required,  with  a  score  on  each  end,  for  the 
rope  to  lay  in.  Put  the  rounds  in  between  both  parts  of  the  rope, 
exactly  at  the  chalk  mark ;  having  got  them  all  placed,  com- 
mence and  seize  them  in,  by  putting  on  a  snug  seizing  of  mar- 
line on  each  side  of  the  round ;  you  may  parcel,  leather,  or  serve 
in  the  nips,  just  as  may  be  preferred. 


40  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

73.— CAN  HOOKS 

Are  broad  Hat  iron  hooks,  in  the  eyes  of  which  thimbles  aie 
inserted.  What  is  termed  a  pair  of  can  hooks,  is  a  piece  of  rope 
four  or  five  feet  long,  or  long  enough  to  span  a  cask  from  chime 
to  chime.  When  fitted,  one  of  these  hooks  are  spliced  into  the 
end  of  this  rope ;  it  is  then  got  on  a  stretch,  wormed,  parceled 
and  served,  and  a  thimble  is  sometimes  seized  in  the  bight,  to 
hook  on  to,  when  lifting  a  cask. 

Note. — Some  are  fitted  with  chain,  with  a  large  iron  ring  in 
'he  middle. 


74.— HOGSHEAD  SLINGS 

Is  a  piece  of  rope  about  five  fathoms  long,  and  from  five  to  six 
inches  in  circumference,  with  a  large  thimble  spliced  in  one  end, 
and  the  other  end  well  whipped.  They  are  used  to  sling  large 
casks,  being  more  secure  than  can  hooks.  They  are  put  on  in 
this  manner: — pass  the  bight  over  one  end  of  the  cask,  reeve  the 
end  through  the  thimble,  and  haul  it  well  taut;  then  take  the 
end  round  the  other  end  of  the  cask,  and  take  two  half-hitches 
round  the  standing  part,  and  it  is  done.  (See  Plate.} 


75.— BARREL  SLINGS 

Are  generally  made  of  three  inch  rope,  and  of  sufficient  length 
to  go  round  the  barrel.  They  are  similar  to  a  long  strap,  spliced 
together  with  a  short  splice ;  it  is  passed  round  the  barrel  and 
one  bight  rove  through  the  other. 

They  are  sometimes  made  long  enough  to  sling  two  or  three 
barrels  at  a  time. 


76.— A  SINGLE  WHIP. 

A  single  whip  is  the  smallest  and  most  simple  purchase  in  use. 
It  is  made  by  reeving  a  rope  through  a  single  block,  as  you  see 
in  the  Plate. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  41 

77.— A  GUN-TACKLE  PURCHASE 
i 

Is  made  by  reeving  a  rope  through  a  single  block,  then  through 
another  single  block,  and  make  the  end  fast  to  the  one  it  was 
first  rove  through,  or  splice  it  into  the  bottom  of  the  block  for 
neatness.  (See  Plate.} 


7 8. -A  LUFF-TACKLE  PURCHASE 

Consists  of  a  double  and  single  block  ;  the  rope  is  rove  through 
one  of  the  sheave  holes  of  the  double  block,  then  through  the 
single  one,  through  the  double  one  again,  and  the  end  made  fast 
to  the  single  block,  with  a  becket  bend,  to  a  becket  in  the  bottom 
of  the  block.  (See  Plate.} 


79.— A  TOP  BURTON 

Is  rove  in  the  same  manner  as  a  luff-tackle  purchase ;  the  only 
difference  is,  that  the  upper  block  of  the  burton  is  a  fiddle  block, 
Hiile  that  of  the  luff  is  a  double  one.  (See  Plate.} 


SO WHIP   AND   RUNNER. 

If  a  rope  is  rove  through  a  single  block,  it  is  called  a  whip,  as 
before  mentioned ;  and  if  the  fall  of  this  whip  be  spliced  round 
the  block  of  another  whip,  it  becomes  whip  on  whip,  or  whip  and 
runner.  (See  Plate.} 


81.— A  RUNNER   AND   TACKLE 

Is  the  same  purchase  as  a  luff-tackle  applied  to  a  runner.  A 
runner  is  a  large  rope  rove  through  a  single  block,  with  a  hook 
spliced  in  one  end.  (See  Plate.} 


82 — A   TWO-FOLD   PURCHASE 

Consists  of  two  double  blocks  ;  the  fall  is  first  rove  through  one 
sheave  of  the  upper  block,  then  through  one  of  the  lower  ones ; 
through  the  upper  one  again,  then  through  the  lower  one,  and 
make  the  end  fast  to  the  upper  block. 


42  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


83.— A  THREE-FOLD  PURCHASE 

A  three-fold  purchase  is  rove  in  this  way,  the  blocks  having 
one  more  sheave,  only  that  you  commence  to  reeve  the  fall  in 
the  middle  sheave  first, — instead  of  one  of  the  side  ones,  wnich 
brings  a  cross  in  the  fall.  The  reason  of  its  being  rove  in  this 
manner,  is,  that  the  heaviest  strain  comes  first  on  the  fall  part, 
and  if  it  was  rove  in  the  side  sheave,  it  would  have  a  tendency 
to  cant  the  block  in  the  strap ,  split  the  shell  of  the  block,  and 
cut  the  fall ;  but  when  it  is  in  the  middle  sheave  it  draws  all 
down  square  alike. 


84.— NAMES   OF  ROPES. 

The  different  kinds  of  ropes  are  designated  as  follows . — 

Hawser-laid  and  cable-laid  rope  is  all  the  same ;  it  is  composed 
of  nine  strands,  each  strand  having  an  equal  number  of  yarns. 
These  nine  strands  are  laid  into  three,  by  twisting  three  small 
ones  into  one  large  one  ;  then  the  three  large  ones  are  laid  up, 
or  twisted  together  left-handed,  which  makes  the  nine  strands  ; 
this  is  a  hawser-laid,  or  cabled,  rope. 

A  common  or  plain  rope  is  composed  of  three  strands,  of  an 
equal  number  of  yarns  twisted  together. 

Shroud-laid  rope  is  made  in  the  same  manner,  only  that  it  con- 
sists of  four  strands  instead  of  three,  and  a  small  strand  which 
runs  through  the  middle,  termed  the  heart  of  the  rope.  When 
plain-laid  rope  is  laid  up  left-handed,  it  is  called  back-laid  rope. 
There  is  also  four  stranded  hawser-laid  rope,  which  is  used  foj 
stays,  &c.  &c. 


PART    II 


85.— LAUNCHING   A  SHIP. 

After  the  carpenters  have  completed  the  hull  of  the  vessel,  the 
necessary  preparations  for  launching  are  commenced  as  follows : — 

Get  an  anchor  on  each  bow ;  get  the  cables  on  board  and  bend 
them  to  the  anchors  ;  range  and  bitt  the  cables  ;  bend  the  buoy 
ropes,  and  see  everything  clear  for  letting  go  the  anchors. 

It  will  then  be  necessary  to  get  four  stout  hawsers  on  the  spar 
deck,  two  on  each  side ;  bend  one  to  the  other,  and  have  them 
coiled  down  clear  for  running.  This  being  done,  pass  the  ends 
of  two  hawsers  out  forward,  through  the  warping  chocks  on  eacli 
bow  ;  pass  the  ends  aft,  one  on  each  side,  and  make  them  fast  to 
some  secure  place,  on  their  respective  sides  of  the  launching  slip, 
as  clear  of  the  ways  as  possible.  Stop  the  bights  of  the  hawsers 
with  a  single  rope-yarn  up  along  the  ship's  sides,  so  as  not  to  in- 
terfere with  the  ways,  or  interrupt  the  progress  of  the  carpenters 
while  knocking  away  the  shores  previous  to  launching. 

Have  men  stationed  to  attend  to  veering"  the  hawsers  and 
cables  when  the  ship  is  off  the  ways,  and  also  to  letting  go  the 
anchors,  if  necessary.  Have  a  few  buckets  of  water  ready  to 
throw  on  the  bitts,  to  prevent  any  danger  that  might  occur  from 
fire  while  veering  the  hawsers  and  cables. 

The  ways  being  well  greased,  and  the  necessary  preparations 
for  launching  completed,  all  the  blocks  and  wedges  by  which  the 
ship  was  formerly  supported,  are  driven  out  from  under  her  keel, 
until  the  whole  weight  gradually  subsides  upon  the  sliding  ways, 
or  cradle ;  a  few  shores,  or  stanchions,  remain,  by  which  she  is 
retained  on  the  stocks  until  the  period  for  launching  arrives, 
which  is  generally  at  high  water ;  they  are  then  cut  away,  and 
all  obstructions  removed,  with  the  exception  of  the  dogshore  (a 
representation  of  which  is  given  in  the  Plate).  The  word  is 
given  "  to  launch" — the  dogshore  is  then  knocked  away,  which 
causes  her  to  advance  down  the  inclined  plane  into  the  water. 

If  the  ship  should  hang  after  the  dogshore  is  removed,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  af  nl-v  screws  under  tlu  fore-foot,  which  will 


14  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

her  to  move  immediately  along  the  ways.  The  ways  generally 
extend  a  sufficient  depth  under  the  surface  of  the  water  to  float 
the  vessel  when  she  arrives  at  the  extreme  ends. 

When  the  ship  is  off  the  stocks  "  veer  away  roundly,"  and  do 
not  attempt  to  check  her  until  she  begins  to  deaden  her  way, 
then  check  her  "  handsomely  "  with  the  hawsers  so  as  not  to  part 
them ;  if,  however,  they  should  part,  let  go  an  anchor  immedi- 
ately; if  that  should  not  bring  her  up,  let  go  the  other  anchor, 
and  veer  gradually  on  both  cables  until  she  is  brought  up. 

Note. — When  a  ship  is  to  be  launched  it  is  always  customary 
to  hoist  the  ensign,  jack,  and  pennant ;  the  jack  forward,  ensign 
aft,  and  the  pennant  amidships.  FlagstafFs  are  erected  for  that 
purpose  previous  to  launching,  as  represented  in  the  Plate,  where 
you  see  a  ship  of  war  ready  to  be  launched  from  the  stocks. 


86.— CUTTING   OUT   STANDING  RIGGING. 

Lower  Rigging. — Measure  the  distance  from  the  larboard  side 
of  the  mast-head  to  the  foremost  dead-eye  in  the  starboard  chan- 
nels, which  distance  set  off  on  the  floor  of  the  rigging  loft  and 
stick  in  a  marlinespike  at  each  extremity.  The  shroud  stuff 
being  stretched,  stop  one  end  to  one  of  the  marlinespikes ;  take 
the  bight  round  the  other  and  back  again :  this  is  the  first  pair  of 
shrouds ;  pass  it  round  again,  outside  at  each  end,  for  the  second 
pair,  and  continue  in  this  manner  until  one  gang  of  rigging  is 
completed.  Mark  the  length  of  the  eyes  straight  across  at  the 
opposite  end,  to  the  one  stopped  to  the  marlinespike ;  cut  at  the 
latter  in  an  angular  direction  (so  that  the  after-legs  will  be  a 
little  longer  than  the  forward  ones),  and  the  inside  pair  will  be 
the  first  pair  of  shrouds.  Hitch  a  piece  of  spun-yarn  round  each 
shroud,  in  the  centre  of  the  eye,  making  knots  on  it  according  to 
the  number  of  the  shroud,  commencing  the  inside  pair  with  one 
knot.  The  mark  for  the  length  of  the  eye  gives  the  place  for  the 
eye-seizing;  the  round  of  the  rope  giving  their  place  on  the 
mast-head.  (Old  fashion.) 

The  proportion  for  the  eye  is  the  round  of  the  mast-head  above 
the  bolsters ;  I  have  also  seen  the  breadth  of  the  seizing  added 
(some  allow  five  squares  of  the  mast-head,  which  is  the  best  rule), 
supposing  it  would  lay  fairer  on  the  side  of  the  bolsters  than  too 
close  to  the  mast-head.  This  precaution  is  hardly  necessary,  a? 
the  rigging  will  stretch  sufficiently  in  pulling  up  to  bring  the 
seizing  down,  no  matter  how  much  it  may  have  been  stretched 
before  being  warped  round  for  cutting. 

Rigging  cut  on  the  above  old  plan,  causes  great  waste  in 
squaring  off  the  ends,  after  fitting  the  eves,  previous  to  lurmng- 
in  the  dead-eyes.  I  would  therefore  recoimnena  (if  not  In  a  great 


Sketch  ot  a  Draft  for  cutting  rigging. 


Oil    YOUSG-  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  43 

hurry)  a  more  economical  plan.  Get  the  shroud-warp  on  a 
stretch,  or  rather  one  end  of  it,  long  enough  for  one  pair  oi 
shrouds  ;  mark  off  the  distance  for  the  required  service,  and  when 
completed — being  wormed,  parceled,  and  served,  while  on  a  tan*, 
stretch — measure  the  length  with  a  tape-line,  from  draft  of  first 
pair  of  shrouds,  No.  1  starboard;  when  measured  and  chalked 
the  required  length,  "  come  up  the  stretch,"  and  cut  at  the  chalk- 
mark  ;  middle  the  shroud  at  the  centre  of  the  service,  and  lay  it 
on  the  loft  floor.  Continue  fitting,  and  cutting,  in  this  way  until 
you  get  the  number  of  shrouds  required  for  the  gang,  allowing 
each  pair  of  shrouds  to  lap  over  the  diameter  of  the  rope  at  the 
eye,  as  they  are  laid  on  the  loft  floor ;  alternately  making  due 
allowance  at  the  ends,  before  cutting,  for  the  carry  aft,  or  the 
jump  of  a  port,  if  required.  (See  Plate.} 

Note. —  In  measuring  the  length  of  the  shrouds,  some  prefer 
the  distance  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  mast-head  to  the  part- 
ners, added  to  half  the  breadth  of  the  deck,  from  the  mast  to  the 
side. 

In  parceling,  begin  at  each  end  where  the  service  is  to  leave 
off,  and  parcel  upwards  to  the  middle  of  the  eye,  where  com- 
mence serving  downwards  on  each  leg.  The  eye  seizings  are 
round  ones,  and  when  put  on,  the  whole  eye  is  neatly  covered 
with  parceling.  A  half-sister  block  is  sometimes  put  between 
the  two  forward  shrouds,  for  the  lower  boom  topping  lift  to  lead 
through. 


87.— TOPMAST   AND  TOP-GALLANT   RIGGING 

Is  cut  in  the  same  manner.  In  fitting  the  topmast  rigging, 
always  seize-in  a  sister-block  between  the  two  forward  shrouds, 
for  the  topsail  lift  and  reef  tackles.  The  swifters  are  generally 
served  the  whole  length. 

The  eyes  of  the  top-gallant  rigging  are  made  to  fit  exactly 
around  the  cylinder;  if  there  is  an  odd  topmast,  or  top-gallant 
shroud,  on  each  side,  they  are  either  fitted  with  a  horse-shoe 
eye,  or  go  together  with  a  cut  splice. 


8 8. -BREAST  AND  STANDING  BACKSTAYS. 

These  may  be  cut  by  the  same  rule ;  the  eyes  of  the  breast 
backstays   are   fitted   in  different  ways.     They  are   sometimes 
spanned  together,  making  a  square,  the  size  of  the  mast-head ; 
sometimes  they  have  an  eye  like  the  shrouds,  made  to  fit  close 
and    others  have  a  srna!!  eye  seized  in  the  bigtii,  and  lashed 


46  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR  ; 

round  the  mast-head.     The  eyes  of  the  standing  backstays  are 
fitted  like  those  of  the  shrouds. 


89.— CAT  HARPEN  LEGS,  AND  FUTTOCK  SHROUDS. 

Take  one-third  the  breadth  of  the  top,  and  lay  of  that  distance 
from  the  eye-seizing,  down  upon  the  shrouds,  each  side ;  draw  a 
line  across  which  will  represent  the  cat  harpens,  and  measured 
on  the  scale,  will  give  their  length  ;  splice  in  eyes  at  each  end  ; 
worm,  parcel,  serve,  and  leather  them.  The  distance  from  the 
extremity  of  the  top  and  this  line  upon  the  shroud,  will  give  the 
length  of  the  futtock  shrouds,  which  must  have  a  hook  and  thim- 
ble in  their  upper  ends,  and  a  thimble  in  their  lower  ends. 


9O.— FORE-AND-AFT   STAYS. 

Measure  from  the  after  parts  of  the  mast-head  to  where  the 
stays  set  up,  and  to  this  distance  add  the  length  of  the  mast- 
head, for  collars. 

Collars  for  stays  are  the  length  of  their  respective  mast-heads. 
The  mousings  are  raised  once-and-a-half  the  size  of  the  stays, 
and  at  a  distance  equal  to  twice  the  length  of  the  mast-head  from 
the  mousing.  A  Flemish  eye  is  worked  on  the  end,  and  the  stay 
rove  through  it ;  or  they  may  be  fitted  with  lashing  eyes,  in  which 
case  each  leg  is  the  length  of  the  mast-head  ;  the  service  is  con- 
tinued the  length  of  the  eye  below  the  mousing,  the  collars 
leathered,  and  the  hearts  turned  in  with  the  lay  of  the  rope. 
Stays  are  wormed,  parcelled,  served,  and  leathered  in  the  wake 
of  all  nipps,  such  as  the  bees,  bullock-blocks,  and  sheave-holes. 


91.— CUTTING  LOWER  MAST   HEAD-PENDANTS. 

The  forward  pair  should  be  twice  the  length  of  the  mast-head 
—the  after  pair  twice-and-a-half;  thimbles  are  spliced  in  the 
ends,  and  they  are  wormed  or  spanned  together,  so  as  to  form  a 
span  to  fit  the  mast-head. 


92.— BOBSTAYS. 

The  bobstays  are  cut  twice  the  length  from  the  collars,  on  the 
oowsprit,  to  their  respective  holes  on  the  cutwater.     They  arr 


OR   YOUJNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  47 

wormed,  parceled,  and  served  the  whole  length,  and  leathered  in 
the  nipp,  after  which  they  are  rove  through  the  holes,  spliced  to- 
gether, and  the  dead  eyes  turned  in,  in  the  wake  of  a  splice. 


93.— BOWSPRIT   SHROUDS. 

The  length  from  the  bowsprit  to  the  eye-bolts  in  the  bows ;  a 
dead-eye  or  heart  is  spliced  into  one  end,  and  a  hook  and  thimble 
in  the  other. 


94.— JIB   AND   FLYING  JIB  GUYS. 

Take  the  distance  from  the  boom-end  to  the  bows,  making  a 
small  allowance  for  reeving  through  the  straps  on  the  spritsail 
yard.  They  are  generally  fitted  with  a  cuckold's  neck  over  the 
boom  end,  and  set  up  with  dead-eyes  to  the  bows.  The  cuck- 
old's neck  is  served  or  covered  with  canvass.  The  guys  in  the 
wake  of  the  spritsail  yard  are  leathered.  The  martingales  must 
be  cut,  and  fitted  to  the  manner  in  which  they  are  rove. 


95.— CUTTING  RUNNING  RIGGING. 

The  greater  part  of  the  running  rigging  may  be  cut  as  it  is 
rove,  making  due  allowance  for  the  hands  to  clap  on.  The 
length  and  size  may  also  be  got  from  the  rigging  table  for  all 
classes  in  the  navy  (see  rigging  tables).  The  most  proper  way 
to  ascertain  the  length  of  a  rope  is  from  the  draft,  or  rigging 
plan  of  the  vessel  you  are  employed  upon,  making  the  proper 
allowance  for  leading  out,  &c.,  &c. 


9G RIGGING  SHEERS,  AND  TAKING  IN    MASTS  AND 

BOWSPRIT. 

In  cases  where  there  is  neither  sheers  nor  wharf  to  have  re- 
course to,  in  order  to  get  the  lower  masts  on  board,  it  becomes 
necessary  to  get  such  spars  as  can  be  procured,  and  erect  a  pair 
of  sheers  on  board  for  that  purpose. 

In  doing  this  proceed  as  follows : — Take  in  a  sufficiency  of 
ballast  to  steady  the  ship,  and  shore  the  decks  from  the  skin  up, 
5 


48  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

particularly  abreast  of  the  partners.  Sling  skids  up  and  down 
the  sides  :  reeve  the  parbuckles,  and  bring  the  sheer  legs  along- 
side, with  their  small  ends  aft ;  parbuckle  them  on  board,  raise 
one  leg  over  the  capstan,  and  their  heads  or  after  ends  resting 
either  on  the  taffrail,  the  break  of  the  poop,  or  a  spar  placed  in 
the  most  convenient  spot,  the  more  elevated  the  better.  Square 
the  heels  exactly  one  with  the  other,  so  that  when  they  come  to 
be  raised  the  legs  may  be  found  of  equal  height. 

As  near  the  after  ends  of  the  spars  as  may  be  considered 
necessary,  when  crossed,  put  on  the  head-lashing  of  new, 
well-stretched  rope  (jlgure-of-S  fashioii),  similar  to  a  racking 
seizing,  and  cross  with  the  ends.  Open  out  the  heels,  carrying 
one  over  to  each  gangway,  and  placing  it  on  a  solid  piece  of  oak 
or  shoe,  previously  prepared  for  the  purpose.  Clap  stout  tackles 
on  the  heels,  two  on  each,  one  leading  forward,  the  other  aft ; 
set  taut  the  after  ones,  and  belay  them.  Lash  a  three  or  four-fold 
block,  as  the  upper  one  of  the  main  purchase,  over  the  main 
lashing  (so  that  it  will  hang  plumb  under  the  cross),  with  can- 
vass underneath  to  prevent  chafing ;  and  in  such  a  manner  that 
one-half  the  turns  of  the  lashing  may  go  over  each  horn  of  the 
sheers,  and  divide  the  strain  equally  ;  also  sufficiently  long  to 
secure  the  free  action  of  the  block.  Lash  the  small  purchase 
block  on  the  after  horn  of  the  sheers,  sufficiently  high  for  the 
."alls  to  play  clear  of  each  other,  and  a  girtline  block  above  all. 

Middle  a  couple  of  hawsers,  and  clove-hitch  them  over  the 
sheer  heads — having  two  ends  leading  forward,  ond  two  abaft, 
led  through  viol  blocks,  and  stout  luffs  clapped  on  them.  These 
should  be  sufficiently  strong  to  secure  the  sheers  while  lifting  the 
masts. 

The  lower  purchase  block  is  lashed  forward  (perhaps  round 
the  cut-water),  and  the  fall  being  rove,  the  sheers  are  raised  by 
heaving  upon  it,  and  preventing  the  heels  from  slipping  forward, 
by  means  of  the  heel  tackles  previously  mentioned. 

Sometimes  a  small  pair  of  sheers  are  erected  for  the  purpose 
of  raising  the  heads  of  the  large  ones  ;  in  which  case  care  must 
be  taken  to  place  them  so  as  to  allow  the  heads  or  horns  of  the 
other  pair  to  pass  through. 

When  the  sheers  are  up,  or  nearly  perpendicular,  cleat  the 
shoes,  so  as  to  confine  the  heels  to  their  places  upon  them.  They 
can  then  be  transported  along  the  deck  by  means  of  the  heel- 
tackles  and  guys  to  the  situation  required,  taking  care  to  make 
them  rest  upon  a  beam,  and  to  have  the  deck  properly  shored  up 
below. 

Finally,  give  the  sheers  the  necessary  rake  by  means  of  the 
guys,  and  set  taut  all  the  guys  and  heel-tackles.  Also,  five  or 
six  feet  above  the  deck,  on  each  leg,  put  two  cleats,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  applying  two  stout  lashings  from  them  above,  to  the  dead- 
eyes  in  the  channels  below,  in  order  to  give  greater  security;  this 
being  done,  the  sheers  may  be  considered  ready.  (See  Plate). 


FIG.  1. 


na.  3. 


Method  of  formins 
.Sheers, and  remov- 
ing a  Ma  inmost,  by 
means  ol'2Topm 'at 


Masting  and  Dismasting. 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  49 

Note.—  The  skids  which  are  slung  up  and  down  the  sides,  are 
for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  sheer-legs  clear  of  the  channels, 
and  from  thence  to  the  plank  shear.  Mats  should  also  be  placed 
over  the  quarter  galleys  to  prevent  injury. 

Parbuckles  are  hawsers  which  are  middled  ;  the  ends  of  which 
are  taken  through  two  ports  which  are  about  five  or  siA  ports 
apart,  from  outside,  in ;  down  over  the  rail,  under  the  sheer  legs: 
up  again  through  snatch  blocks,  in  the  opposite  water-way?,  and 
luffs  clapped  on  them.  The  counter  parbuckles  are  usea  to  ease 
the  sheer  legs  down  on  deck,  and  are  rove  through  the  pun-deck 
ports.  Mats  should  be  placed  in  the  wake  of  the  chale,  where 
the  parbuckle  leads  over  the  rail,  or  up  through  the  £un-cler.k 
ports. 

The  parbuckling  on  board  of  heavy  spars  for  sheers  may  be 
much  facilitated  at  times,  and  injury  to  the  ship  avoided,  by  at- 
tending to  circumstances,  and  getting  them  in  at  slack  water,  or 
over  the  bows  or  stem. 

When  a  ship  is  confined  to  her  own  resources,  the  lower  yards 
are  the  best  spars  for  sheers ;  the  heels  (or  yard-arms  lasting  on 
the  deck)  being  strengthened  where  they  taper  by  a  temporary 
fish,  woolded  on,  and  the  woolding  set  up  by  wedges. 

In  a  brig,  the  main  yard  and  main  boom  are  the  best  spars 
for  sheers  (if  other  spars  are  not  available). 

The  shoes  are  made  of  either  stout  oak  plank  or  beam  Limbers 
of  pine,  and  long  enough  to  extend  over  at  least  thr^e  beams, 
with  a  saucer  in  them  for  the  heels  to  rest  in ;  likewise,  mortices 
or  bolts  in  each  end  for  lashing.  The  spare  caps  will  je  found 
veiy  handy  for  placing  the  heels  of  the  spars  in,  and  ihe  eye- 
bolts  in  them  convenient  for  hooking  the  heel-tackles,  and  trans- 
porting alcng  the  decks. 


50 


THE  KEDGE-ANCHOfi; 


*J7.— TO  TAKE  IN  THE  MIZEN-MAST. 

Tow  the  mizen-mast  alongside,  with  the  head  aft,  and  the  gar- 
land* lashed  on  to  the  forward  part  of  the  mast,  at  the  distance 
from  the  tennon  to  just  above  the  spar  deck  partners  ;  lash  a  pan 
of  girtline  blocks  on  the  mast-head,  and  reeve  the  girtlines ;  bend 
the  sheer-head  girtline  to  the  mast  below  the  bibbs  to  cant  it. 
Overhaul  the  main  purchase  down  abaft,  thrust  the  strap  through 
the  eyes  of  the  garland,  toggle  it,  and  secure  the  toggle  by  a  back- 
lashing.  Take  the  fall  to  the  capstan  and  "  heave  round  ;"  when 
the  heel  rises  near  the  rail,  hook  on  a  heel-tackle  to  ease  it  in- 
board. Get  the  mast  fair  for  lowering  by  means  of  the  girtlines, 
have  carpenters  attending  below,  wipe  the  tennon  dry,  and  white 
lead  both  it  and  the  step,  "lower  away,"  and  step  the  mast. 

Pass  a  couple  of  straps  around  the  mast ;  to  each  of  these 
hook  the  double  blocks  of  the  pendant  tackles — the  single  ones 


*  Garlands  are  made  of  new  rope,  well  stretched  (salvagee  fashion),  marled 
together  and  parceled.  They  are  laid  on  the  forward  part  of  the  mast,  a  stout 
jashing  put  on  over  all,  and  crossed  between  the  garland  and  the  mast ; — a  good 
clogging  also,  if  necessary,  passed  downward. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  5] 

to  the  sides,  and  ha  iled  taut ;  wedge  the  mast  temporarily, 
"come  up"  the  purchases,  man  the  guy  and  heel  tackles,  wet 
the  decks,  and  transport  the  sheers  forward  for  taking  in  the 
main-mast. 

The  object  of  taking  in  the  mizen-mast  first  is,  because  the 
breadth  of  beam  is  less  aft  than  forward ;  and  the  heels  of  the 
sheers  being  spread  more  as  they  go  forward,  the  head  lashing 
consequently  becomes  tauter ;  moreover,  if  the  mizen-mast  was 
taken  in  last,  the  bowsprit  must  be  got  in  first,  and  thus  the  ad- 
cantage  of  securing  the  sheers  to  the  foremast-head,  when  get- 
ting in  the  bowsprit,  would  be  lost. 


98.— TO  TAKE  IN  THE  MAIN  AND  FOREMAST. 

Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  in  getting  in  the  mizen  mast. 
The  garland  for  the  small  purchase  should  be  lashed  about  the 
diameter  of  the  mast,  above  the  main  purchase. 

In  taking  in  either  of  the  masts,  if  the  sheers  should  be  found 
to  be  a  few  inches  short,  the  difficulty  may  be  remedied  by  man- 
ning the  forward  guy-falls,  and  bringing  the  sheers  perpendicu- 
lar to  the  deck.  Some  distance  may  also  be  saved  by  using  no 
garlands  and  having  the  purchase  blocks  lashed  to  the  mast. 
If  in  lowering  there  should  still  be  a  difficulty,  chocks  might  be 
placed  on  the  kelson  until  the  tennon  rested  on  them  ;  then  steady 
the  mast  by  means  of  the  small  purchase  and  sheer-head  girt- 
lines,  while  the  main  purchase  is  unlashed,  and  lashed  again  on 
the  mast  sufficiently  high  to  step  it. 

If  the  ship  has  a  top-gallant  forecastle,  it  would  be  well  to  step 
the  mast  forward  of  the  sheer  legs,  for  the  brake  of  the  forecas- 
tle comes  abreast  of  the  partners ;  and,  in  a  case  of  this  kind,  it 
would  be  well  to  take  in  the  foremast  first. 


99.— TO  TAKE  IN  THE  BOWSPRIT. 

Transport  the  sheers  as  far  forward  as  possible,  or  as  the  bows 
will  permit ;  send  a  hand  to  the  sheer-head,  bend  on  the  girtlines 
to  the  small  purchase  block  to  light  it  up,  unlash  it,  and  lash  it 
again  to  the  forward  fork  or  horns  of  the  sheers,  pass  a  strap 
round  the  foremast-head,  to  which  hook  a  large  tackle,  carry  it 
well  aft,  and  haul  it  taut,  for  the  purpose  of  staying  the  mast. 
Lash  a  couple  of  large  single  blocks  to  the  foremast-head,  middle 
a  hawser,  and  clove-hitch  it  over  the  sheer-head ;  reeve  the  ends 
through  the  blocks  at  the  mast-head,  down  on  deck,  carry  them 
well  aft,  and  take  a  turn.  Hook  the  after  heel-tackles  forward, 


52  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR, 

and  take  the  after-guys  aft ;  pass  a  bulwark  lashing  round  eacn 
heel,  rake  the  sheers  over  the  bows  sufficiently  for  the  main  pur- 
chase to  hang  directly  over  the  gammoning  scuttle,  and  make 
all  fast. 

The  bowsprit  being  brought  under  the  bows,  with  the  head 
forward,  and  the  garlands  lashed  on,  the  main  one  a  little  more 
than  one-third  from  the  heel,  the  smaller  one  between  the  cap 
and  bees,  having  guys  leading  from  the  bowsprit  to  the  cat-heads, 
and  a  couple  of  straps  round  the  heel  for  hooking  the  bedding 
tackles.  Overhaul  down  the  purchases  and  toggle  them ;  "  swray 
away,"  attending  it  by  the  guys,  until  nearly  perpendicular  ;  hook 
on  the  bedding  tackles,  which  are  taken  from  the  bitts  on  the 
main  deck,  and  led  up  through  the  partners  ;  wipe  the  tennon 
dry,  and  white-lead  both  it  and  the  mortice  ;  "  lower  away,"  bouse 
upon  the  bedding  tackles,  and  bring  it  into  its  place ;  come  up 
purchases,  guys,  unlash  garlands,  and  proceed  to  dismantle  the 
sheers. 

If  the  ship  has  a  topgallant  forecastle,  you  will  be  unable  to 
take  in  the  bowsprit  with  the  sheers  without  the  assistance  of  a 
derrick*  on  account  of  the  brake  of  the  forecastle,  it  not  being 
prudent  to  step  sheers  on  the  top  of  it. 

When  the  ship  is  masted,  and  alongside  the  yard,  commence 
getting  on  board  and  stowing  ballast  and  tanks ;  fit  the  rudder, 
gammon  the  bowsprit,  fit  and  set  up  the  bob  stays  and  bowsprit 
shrouds ;  fit  fore  stay  collars  ;  get  on  board  tops,  caps,  cross-trees, 
topmasts  and  topgallant  masts,  placing  lower  yards  athwart  ships, 
topsail  and  topgallant  yards  amidships ;  also,  have  ready  tackles 
and  luffs  for  setting  up  the  rigging  and  staying  the  masts,  top- 
blocks  with  lashings  for  top-ropes,  and  all  the  rigging  at  hand 
and  in  order. 


1OO.— GAMMONING  THE  BOWSPRIT. 

in  rigging  a  stage  under  the  bowsprit  for  this  purpose,  make 
use  of  two  small  spars,  such  as  topgallant  studding-sail  booms, 
with  their  heels  lashed  to  the  head-rail,  their  heads  frapped  toge- 
ther, and  slung  from  the  bowsprit  end,  and  boards  laid  across 
from  one  to  the  other. 

The  gammoning  is  of  new,  well-stretched  rope,  generally 
water-laid.  One  end  of  the  gammoning  being  whipt,  is  passed 
through  the  hole  in  the  cutwater,  and  over  the  bowsprit  with  a 
round  turn,  then  clenched  round  the  bowsprit  close  against  the 
stop  or  cleats  ;  the  other  end  passes  through  the  forepart  of  the 
hole  in  the  cutwater,  again  round  the  bowsprit  (but  before  the 


*  See  Derrick,  in  Miscellaneous  Articles. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  53 

clinch),  and  again  through  the  hole  in  the  cutwater,  abaft  the 
first  turn.  All  the  succeeding  turns  go  in  the  same  way,  laying 
forward  on  the  bowsprit  and  aft  in  the  cutwater,  and  all  are 
passed  inside  of  the  first  turns  ;  by  which  means  the  outer  turns 
on  the  bowsprit  which  bear  the  most  strain  are  more  preserved 
from  chafing  than  the  inner  ones. 

The  turns  are  then  hove  taut  as  follows  : — A  leading  block  is 
made  fast  to  the  holes  for  the  bobstays  by  a  strap  long  enough 
to  admit  of  the  pendant,  which  is  then  rove  through  it,  leading 
straight  through  the  hawse-hole  to  the  capstan.  In  one  end  of 
this  pendant  an  eye  is  spliced,  through  which  a  bight  of  the 
gammoning  is  passed,  and  retained  by  means  of  a  toggle,  while 
to  the  other  end  is  hooked  a  long  tackle,  and  the  fall  led  to  the 
capstan.  As  each  turn  is  hove  taut,  it  is,  by  some,  nailed  to  the 
bowsprit,  and  by  others,  racked  in  several  places,  which  is  pre- 
ferable to  nailing.* 

When  all  the  turns  are  passed  and  hove  taut,  they  are  frapped 
together  by  as  many  crossturns  as  are  passed  on  the  bowsprit. 
The  end  is  then  whipped  and  seized  to  one  of  the  turns. 

In  ships  with  two  gammonings,  the  outer  one  is  hove  taut  first, 
as  it  wrould  otherwise  slack  the  inner  one. 

Note. — Iron  gammoning  is  now  allowed  for  vessels  of  all 
classes  in  the  service.  (See  Rigging  Table.} 


101.— FITTING  RIGGING. 

The  shroud  is  hove  well  taut,  with  a  tackle  clapped  on  one 
end,  and  the  other  secured  to  a  sampson  post.  It  is  wormed, 
parceled,  and  served  a  third  down  from  the  seizing ;  the  swifter 
or  foremost  shroud  all  the  way,  except  where  the  dead-eye  is 
turned  in.  A  sword  mat  is  sometimes  laced  on  the  foremost 
shroud,  which,  I  think,  answers  much  better,  as  it  can  be  taken 
off  and  the  rope  dried  ;  and,  from  the  different  ropes  I  have  seen 
rotted  under  the  service,  I  feel  convinced,  the  less  on  rigging, 
unless  where  absolutely  necessary,  the  better. 

In  parceling  the  eyes,  commence  from  each  end  of  the  service 
and  finish  in  the  centre,  and  pass  several  riding  parts,  as  in 
breaking  the  shroud  to  form  the  eye,  the  service  gets  opened, 
which  allows  the  wet  to  get  in ;  and  if  the  service  is  begun  in 
the  centre,  dojbled,  and  then  passed  toward  each  end,  it  will 
prevent  the  wet  getting  to  the  rope. 

In  forming  the  eye,  take  a  good  strand,  knot  both  ends  toge- 
ther, and  lay  it  across  both  parts  of  the  shroud  ;  having  brought 
them  as  close  together  as  possible,  pass  both  bights  of  the  strand 


*  See  Gammoning  the  Bowsprit,  in  Miscellaneous  Articles. 


54  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

under  the  shroud  clear  of  each  other ;  then  place  a  long-  bell 
across,  close  to  the  strand  on  the  upper  side ;  take  a  round 
turn  round  the  bolt  with  each  bight  of  the  strand  on  each  side 
of  the  shroud,  put  a  smaller  bolt  through  each  eye  in  the  strand, 
and  heave  it  round  the  long  bolt,  and  as  the  turns  accumulate 
on  the  bolt,  both  parts  of  the  shroud  come  together ;  when  quite 
close  pass  the  eye  seizing,  the  shroud  being  previously  parceled 
in  the  way  of  it. 

When  there  is  an  odd  on  each  side,  it  is  fitted  horse-shce  fash- 
ion to  fit  the  mast-head  ;  parceled,  and  served  over  a  third  down 
the  same  as  the  other  shrouds.  I  have  seen  the  odd  shroud  put 
on  the  mast-head  first  (after  the  pendants),  instead  of  last ;  and 
then  the  others  put  on  in  rotation  :  No.  1  starboard,  No.  2  lar- 
board, No.  3  starboard,  &c.  &c. 


1 02.— FITTING  MAST-HEAD  PENDANTS. 

The  long  leg,  when  two,  should  be  a  third  of  the  shroud. 
The  eye  is  formed  the  same  as  the  shroud  :  wormed,  parceled,  &c. 
A  thimble  is  spliced  in  each  end,  the  ends  put  in  once  and  a- 
half,  marled  down,  and  served  over.  The  formost  leg  is  once 
and  a-half  the  round  of  the  rope  shorter  than  the  after  one.  The 
thimbles  are  well  parceled  before  being  spliced  in. 

Small  ships  have  only  one  pendant  on  each  side  ;  when  this 
is  the  case,  the  rope  is  cut  to  the  proper  length,  the  starboard  pen- 
dant is  spliced  into  the  larboard,  and  the  larboard  into  the  star- 
board, with  a  cut  splice  forming  an  eye,  or  span,  to  fit  the  square 
of  the  mast-head ;  a  thimble  is  spliced  into  each  end,  and  they 
are  wormed,  parceled  and  served  ; — they  are  the  same  length  as 
a  long  leg,  when  a  pair  on  each  side. 


103.— LOWER   AND   TOPMAST   STAYS. 

Stays  are  four  stranded,  and  are  now  both  the  same  size,  and 
lashed  abaft  the  mast-heads.  The  legs  are  made  for  the  collar  in 
laying  up.  When  sufficient  length  is  laid  up  for  the  stay,  from 
whence  the  collar  commences  to  the  end  for  setting  up,  two 
strands,  one  for  each,  are  left  sufficiently  long  to  double  back, 
and  are  then  laid  up  as  four  strands,  forming  the  lashing  eyes 
and  legs.  The  ends  of  the  strands  are  then  unlaid,  the  inside 
ones  wormed  into  the  lay  of  the  rope ;  the  other  strands  are  divi- 
ded, laid  up,  and  worked  in  alongside  the  first  strands  ;  then  some 
more  yarns  are  twisted  smaller  and  used  as  backing;  some  in- 
side yarns  from  each  strand  should  be  wormed  into  the  stay  theii 


OR    YOUNG  SAILORS*   ASSISTANT.  55 

ivhole  length,  below  the  crotch ;  the  legs  are  then  wormed  so  as 
io  completely  fill  the  rope,  commencing  from  the  centre  of  the 
eyes  for  lashing,  which  should  be  well  opened  with  a  large  set- 
ing  fid,  and  worming  carried  into  the  stay  as  far  down  as  the 
worming  of  the  legs.  The  outside  yarns  of  the  legs  are  then 
marled  down,  over  all,  round  the  stay,  tapering  the  ends.  The 
legs  are  well  parceled  and  served,  and  likewise  the  stay,  sufficiently 
far  down  to  take  the  lower  yards,  and  covered  with  tanned  hide. 

The  stays  should  be  hove  well  out  with  purchases,  and  allowed 
to  hang,  pulling  up  occasionally.  I  have  known  a  line-of-battle 
ship's  stays  (cable  laid  rope)  to  stretch  out  twelve  feet,  and  after 
a  two  month's  cruise  were  long  enough  to  allow  nearly  two  feet 
to  be  taken  off  the  fore-stays. 

Stays  fitted  with  lashing  eyes  are  decidedly  preferable,  as  they 
are  easier  shifted  ;  the  collars  not  being  so  long  the  yards  can  be 
slung  higher  up,  and  consequently  braced  further  forward. 

In  the  merchant  service  the  stays  are  also  fitted  on  the  bight, 
or  two  in  one,  as  follows :  the  bight  is  put  over  the  mast-head 
and  both  ends  taken  forward  and  set  up  in  their  respective  places. 
Others  again  put  the  bight  under  the  bowsprit  and  set  them  up 
abaft  the  mast  head,  with  lashing  eyes,  putting  on  a  seizing  at 
the  proper  place  to  form  the  collar.  This  last  plan  would  not 
answer  for  a  ship  of  war. 


1O4 TO   RIG   THE   FOREMAST. 

White-lead  the  mast-head  in  the  wake  of  the  trestle-trees,  over 
haul  down  the  girtlines,  bend  on  the  trestle-trees  and  sway  them 
on  board;  take  out  the  after  chock,  wipe  them  dry,  bend  the 
girtlines  to  the  forward  part  and  stop  the  girtlines  to  the  after 
part ;  bend  the  main  girtline  to  the  after  part  also  ;  "  sway  away," 
having  a  steadying-line  forward  to  keep  the  trestle-trees  from 
catching  under  the  bibbs,  for  if  they  should  be  heavy,  one  man 
aloft  will  not  be  able  to  bear  them  off;  when  above  the  bibbs, 
send  a  hand  aloft  to  slip  the  stops,  one  at  a  time,  so  as  to  let 
them  come  down  gradually.  "  Lower  away,"  bouse  on  the  after 
girtlines,  and  get  the  trestle-trees  in  their  places  ;  send  aloft  the 
after  chock,  ship  and  bolt  it.  Tar  the  mast-head  in  the  way  of 
the  rigging  ;  overhaul  down  the  girtlines  for  the  bolsters,  which 
are  tarred  and  parceled ;  sway  them  aloft  and  stop  them ;  lash 
the  girtline  blocks  to  the  after  part  of  trestle-trees. 

The  rigging  is  then  sent  up  by  the  girtlines  in  the  following 
manner : — 

Mast  head  pendants. — Foremost  pair  of  shrouds,  starboard 
side;  foremost  pair  of  shrouds,  larboard  side;  second  pair  of 
shrouds,  starboard  side  ;  second  pair  of  shrouds,  larboard  side, 


56  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

and  so  on  until  all  the  shrouds  are  over,  after  which  send  up  the 
stay,  and  last  of  all  the  preventer  or  spring-stay. 

Placing  the  rigging. — The  girtlines  being  overhauled  down 
send  aloft  the  lower  pendants,  which  have  got  a  long  and 
short  leg,  fitted  together  with  a  span,  or  square,  the  size  of  the 
mast-head  ;  the  long  leg  is  placed  abaft,  so  that  in  case  of  the 
forestay  being  shot  away,  the  pendant  tackles  can  be  hooked  in 
them  without  being  in  the  way  of  the  fore-yard  in  bracing ;  while 
the  leg  being  abaft,  the  mast  affords  them  good  security.  As  soon 
as  the  mast-head  pendants  are  placed  they  ought  to  be  lashed 
abaft,  the  tackles  hooked,  and  the  mast  stayed  by  them. 
Overhaul  down  the  girtlines,  bend  the  mast-head  one  on  the 
shroud,  with  a  timber-hitch,  or  toggle,  four  or  five  feet  below  the 
seizing,  and  stop  it  to  the  centre  of  the  eye ;  take  the  girtline 
from  the  after  trestle-tree,  and  bend  it  half  way  down  the  shroud  ; 
"sway  away,"  on  the  lower  girtline,  and  lift  the  weight  of  the 
shroud.  When  high  enough,  the  stop  in  the  eye  is  cut,  and  it 
will  fall  over  the  mast-head ;  the  nien  on  the  trestle-tress  placing 
it  fair  on  the  bolsters,  beating  it  well  down,  with  commanders, 
and  observing  to  have  the  eye-seizing  come  as  near  the  centre 
of  the  mast-head  as  possible.  The  larboard  pair  is  got  up  in  the 
same  manner,  and  so  on  until  all  are  placed.  Reeve  the  lan- 
yards, if  prepared  with  a  knot  on  the  end ;  a  double-wall  and 
crowned  is  preferable,  a  mathew-walker  being  liable  to  capsize  ; 
the  lanyard  should  be  rove  through  the  hole  under  the  end  of 
the  shroud,  because  in  setting  it  up,  the  strain  comes  on  the 
shroud  first,  and  keeps  the  dead-eye  in  its  place ;  if  put  under 
the  standing  part,  the  strain  coming  on  the  end  first,  the  dead- 
eye  would  slue  round. 

Setting  up  the  lower  rigging. — The  rigging  is  often  placed 
and  then  set  up,  but  I  would  prefer  (if  time  would  permit)  having 
it  pulled  up  as  placed.  When  the  first  pair  on  each  side  are 
over  and  placed,  and  the  lanyards  rove  through  both  dead-eyes, 
clap  a  selvagee  strap  on  each  shroud  well  up ;  to  this  hook  the 
single  block  of  a  luff  tackle ;  the  double,  to  a  blackwall  hitch  in 
the  lanyard ;  then  take  the  lower  blocks  of  the  pendant  tackles 
and  hook  them  to  both  the  falls  of  the  luffs  on  each  side ;  reeve 
the  tackle  falls  through  the  leading  blocks,  and  pull  up,  setting 
up  both  pair  of  shrouds  at  the  same  time,  the  men  on  the  trestle-trees 
beating  the  shroud  down  as  pulled  up ;  when  well  up,  place  two 
pair  more,  and  proceed  in  this  manner  until  the  mast  is  rigged/ 

The  advantage  of  pulling  up  a  pair  at  each  side,  instead  of 
singly,  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  pulling  up  singly  injures  the 
seizing ;  as  it  is  first  dragged  forward  and  then  aft  by  the  after 


*  See  note  on  lowei  rigging. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  57 

leg-,  it  is  liable  to  slack  the  seizing,  and  perhaps  snap  the  inside 
turns. 

In  rigging  the  lower  masts,  I  have  seen  the  after  swifter  go 
over  first ;  a  plan  that  is  now  adopted  in  small  vessels.  In  stay- 
ing the  mast  these  swifters  should  be  set  taut,  the  mast  being 
previously  wedged,  and  the  stays  set  steadily  up.  I  have  heard 
some  old  sailors  dispute  this  plan,  it  being  new,  but  for  my  own 
part  I  think  \vell  of  it. 

Note. — The  trestle-trees  might  be  got  over  without  knocking 
out  the  after-chocks,  by  running  up  a  derrick  abaft  the  mast, 
well  lashed  abaft  below  the  bibbs,  having  chocks  placed  between 
it  and  the  mast,  sufficient  to  admit  of  the  free  passage  of  the  after 
chock  of  the  trestle-trees.  They  are  sometimes  got  on  before 
getting  in  the  mast,  but  they  then  bring  in  an  additional  and 
unnecessary  weight  upon  the  mast-head,  and  moreover,  in  low- 
ering, catch  over  the  shear-head. 

N.  B.  The  blocks  for  topmast  stays  should  be  put  on  after  the 
second  pair  of  shrouds  (on  foremast). 


1O5.— FUTTOCK   SHROUDS 

Are  now  fitted,  and  hooked  to  the  futtock  plates  in  the  top,  aid 
eet  up  to  an  iron  band  round  the  mast.  In  small  vessels  these 
are  iron,  and  set  up  with  turnbuckles,  or  screws.  Cat-harpens 
are  seldom  used,  being  considered  unnecessary  lumber  aloft. 

Note. — The  futtock  shrouds  are  hooked  to  their  respective 
plates,  with  the  points  of  the  hooks  in. 


58  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR , 


1O6.— TO   RIG  THE  MAIN  AND  MIZEN-MAST. 

Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  foremast 
The  mainmast  of  a  frigate  has  one  more  pair  of  shouds  than  the 
foremast,  and  the  mizen-mast  three  less.  The  mizen-mast 
has  only  one  pendant  on  each  side,  fitted  with  a  cut-splice,  and 

thimble  spliced  in  each  end.  The  rigging  is  placed  the  same 
as  the  fore  or  main ;  the  mast  is  steadied  into  its  place  with  a 
couple  of  long  burtons,  one  to  each  pendant,  and  hooked  to  straps 
round  the  bitts,  or  to  ring-bolts  in  the  fore  part  of  the  quarter- 
deck bulwarks.  If  the  stays  are  not  ready  for  going  up,  the 
tackles  can  be  hooked  to  a  lashing  round  the  mast,  the  pendants 
being  wanted  to  pull  up  the  rigging  (for  placing) ;  the  rigging  is 
the  same  as  the  fore. 

In  setting  up  the  main-stays,  pass  one  under,  the  other  over, 
around  the  cross-piece  in  the  four  bitts,  for  the  purpose ;  clap  the 
selvagee  straps  well  up  the  stay,  and  two  more  near  the  ends  ; 
to  these  hook  two  luffs  ;  to  the  falls  of  the  luffs  hook  the  lower 
blocks  of  main  tackles  ;  reeve  their  falls  through  leading  blocks, 
in  as  direct  a  line  with  the  stay  as  possible,  and  grease  the  bitts 
in  the  way  of  the  stay. 

In  placing  the  main  stays,  in  the  manner  mentioned  above, 
there  is  sufficient  space  between  the  stays  for  a  shot  to  pass 
through,  which  often  prevents  their  being  both  cut  awray  at  the 
same  time. 

When  the  rigging  is  to  be  set  up  for  a  full  due,  the  stays  in  the 
way  of  the  bitts  are  well  wormed,  parceled,  served,  and  covered 
with  hide ;  and  the  ends  of  the  stays,  and  all  the  lower  rigging 
whipped,  and  covered  with  canvass  caps  (neatly  fitted). 


1O7.— TO  RIG  THE  BOWSPRIT. 

Bobstays. — The  rope  should  be  well  stretched,  wormed,  par- 
celed, and  served,  and  in  the  way  of  the  cutwater  covered  with 
leather  ;  when  none  is  to  be  had,  pass  two  parts  of  parceling,  the 
first  against,  the  second  with  the  lay  of  the  rope ;  and  serve  with 
good  stout  spun-yarn,  or  four-yarn  plait ;  then  reeve  them  through 
the  cutwater,  splice  both  ends  together,  put  the  strands  in  once 
each  way,  marl  down,  and  serve  over.  The  hearts  are  then  se- 
cured in  their  place  (keeping  the  splice  on  the  upper  side)  with  a 
round  seizing,  with  parceling  under  it.  They  are  sometimes  fit- 
ted to  shackle  to  the  cutwater,  with  iron  plates  let  in  flush  with 
the  wood,  a  bolt  going  through  both  plates,  which  is  very  snug 
and  strong. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  59 

Bowsprit  Shrouds  are  single  pieces  of  rope 
When  cut  the  required  length  (a  hook  and  thim- 
ble), the  latter  parceled,  is  spliced  into  one  end, 
put  in  once-and-a-half,  marled  down  and  served 
over ;  a  heart  is  spliced  into  the  other.  After 
being  hooked  to  eye-bolts  in  the  bows  for  the 
purpose,  they  are  set  up  to  their  collars  on  the 
bowsprit. 

A  celebrated  master  (now  a  commander)  in 
the  navy,  and  a  first  rate  seaman,  never  served 
the  bowsprit  rigging  all  over ;  it  is,  certainly. 
in  my  opinion,  better  not  to  do  so,  as  the  water  can  never  lodge, 
which  it  may  do,  by  getting  in  from  broken  service,  which  can 
not  be  repaired  at  sea.  They  are  now  fitted  one-third  chain,  on 
account  of  the  chain  cable  chafing  against  them. 

It  is  not  unusual,  in  small  vessels,  to  insert  thimbles  instead 
of  hearts  in  the  bobstays.  bowsprit  shrouds,  and  collars ;  covering 
the  lanyards  neatly  afterwards,  with  canvass. 

Placing  the  rigging. — Tar  well  the  bowsprit ;  then  put  on 
the  first  forestay  collar,  first  pair  bowsprit  shroud  collars,  first 
bobstay  collar ;  second  bobstay  collar ;  second  pair  of  shroud 
collars  ;  spring-stay  collar ;  and  cap  bobstay  collar  ;  then  heave 
them  close  up,  pass  and  heave  well  on  with  a  rose-lashing. 

The  man-ropes  are  spliced,  or  hooked  into  bolts  in  the  bowsprit 
cap,  and  in  the  other  end  an  eye  is  spliced  ;  ends  put  in  once-and- 
a-half,  and  set  up  with  a  lanyard  to  an  eye-bolt  in  knight-heads 
or  stanchions,  for  the  purpose  ;  splices  served  over,  and  leathered 
in  the  nip. 

The  goblines*  are  either  clove-hitched,  or  may  be  fitted  with 
a  cuckold's  neck  around  the  end  of  the  dolphin-striker,  and  set 
up  to  the  bows,  one  on  each  side. 


1  OS.— GETTING  THE   TOPS   OVER 

Whole  tops. — Overhaul  the  girtlines  for  the  cross-trees,  white- 
lead  the  squares  in  the  trestle-trees,  and  ship  them.  The  girt- 
lines being  on  each  side  of  the  mast-head  are  then  overhauled 
down  for  the  tops ;  one  end  is  passed  from  underneath,  and  up 
through  the  hole  for  futtock  plate  and  hitched  to  the  standing 
part ;  the  girtline  can  be  rove  down  through  one  of  the  holes  in 
the  edge  of  lubber's  hole ;  the  girtline  stopped  to  the  foremost 
edge,  to  holes  bored  for  the  purpose.  A  girtline  is  taken  from 

*  Called  back-ropes  by  some. 


60  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

the  mizen-mast-head,  and  bent  to  the  foremost  part  of  maintop 
bend  on  a  tripping  line  to  the  pigeon  hole  leading  from  the  fore 
mast-head.  Man  the  girtlines  and  "sway  away;"  when  suf- 
ficiently high  to  allow  the  foremost  edge  of  lubber's  hole  to 
clear  the  mast-head,  cut  the  stops  and  cant  it  over  by  the  trip- 
ping line,  and  the  top  will  hang  in  the  girtlines,  when  it  can  be 
lowered,  placed,  and  bolted. 

I  have  seen  girtlines  bent  from  the  foremost  part  of  the  fore-top 
to  the  bowsprit  end ;  and  from  foremast  to  the  forward  part  of 
the  maintop  ;  and  from  mainmast  to  foremost  part  of  mizen-top, 
to  assist  in  getting  the  tops  over ;  but  if  they  are  properly  slung 
it  is  not  necessary. 

The  dead-eyes  for  the  topmast  rigging  can  now  be  hauled  up, 
and  put  in  their  places  in  the  top-rims :  and  also  ship  the  top-rail, 
and  stanchions  in  their  respective  places. 


1O9.— GETTING  HALF-TOPS  OVER. 

Unlash  the  girtline  blocks  from  each  side  of  the  mast-head, 
and  lash  them  on  the  foremost  and  after  sides  ;  send  the  end  of 
the  foremost  girtline  down  abaft  all,  the  other  between  the  cross- 
trees. 

If  the  starboard  half  is  to  be  got  over,  place  it  on  the  deck  with 
its  upper  side  up,  or  on  its  edge  with  the  upper  side  aft.  Take 
the  foremost  girtline,  reeve  it  down  through  the  foremost  hole, 
by  lubber's  hole  for  the  purpose,  (or  from  aft  forward,  if  on  its 
edge,)  take  it  underneath  the  top,  and  if  the  hole  for  the  futtock 
plate  will  take  it,  reeve  it  up,  (or  from  forward,  aft,  if  on  its  edge,) 
and  half-hitch  it  to  the  mast-head,  or  standing  part ;  then  take 
the  mast-head  part  under  the  top,  (if  on  its  edge,  to  the  foremost 
side,)  and  seize  it  well  to  the  foremost  corner  with  a  piece  of  small 
rope,  through  a  hole  bored  for  the  purpose.  Take  the  after  girt- 
line,  reeve  it  the  same  way  through  the  after  hole  bored  for  the 
purpose  in  the  after  part  of  lubber's  hole ;  pass,  and  half-hitch  it 
the  same  way  as  the  fore  one,  and  secure  it  with  a  good  seizing 
of  small  rope,  through  another  hole  bored  in  the  foremost  corner. 
If  the  futtock  holes  will  not  take  the  girtlines,  stop  them  with 
spun-yarn.  The  top  should  be  so  balanced  in  the  girtlines,  as 
to  hang  fair  when  the  stops  are  cut.  Reeve  the  other  ends  of 
the  girtlines  through  the  leading  blocks ;  man  them,  and  sway 
up  the  top  with  the  after  girtline ;  at  the  same  time  taking  in 
the  slack  of  the  fore  one.  Have  men  stationed  at  the  trestle-trees 
to  bear  off,  cut  the  stops,  and  place.  When  the  edge  is  clear  of 
the  cross-trees,  cut  the  after  stop  and  sway  on  both  girtlines ; 
and  when  the  foremost  corner  is  well  up,  cut  the  stops  ;  the  top 
then  hang  in  the  girtlines,  and  can  be  easily  place*!.  Shift 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  fj  i 

the  girtlines  for  the  larboard  half,  get  it  up  the  same  way,  bolt 
and  secure  the  top.  Shift  the  girtlines  on  each  side  of  the  mast 
head,  as  they  were  before.  A  girtline  from  the  mizenmast-head 
is  sometimes  bent  to  the  foremost  ed^e  of  the  main-top,  to  assist 
in  bearing  off;  (it  can  be  dispensed  with  ;)  a  rope's  end  bent  to  the 
top  and  hauled  well  aft,  will  answer  the  same  purpose.  Half- 
tops  may  be  swayed  up,  before  the  cross  trees  are  sent  aloft,  and 
hung  to  the  mast-head,  one  half  on  each  side,  swayed  chock 
up;  then  send  up  the  cross-trees,  and  bolt  them  to.  the  trestle- 
trees  ;  lower  the  half  tops  down  on  the  cross-trees  ;  place  and 
secure  them  as  before. 

Note. — In  cold  weather  it  would  be  best  to  get  the  tops  over 
before  rigging  the  masts,  in  order  to  give  the  men  a  more  secure 
place  for  standing  while  placing  the  rigging ;  and  in  this  case  a 
derrick  rigged  on  the  top  would  be  the  best  way  to  get  the  rig- 
ing  over  in  a  heavy  ship.  (If  the  topmast  is  pointed  and  swayed 
about  six  feet  above  the  lower  mast-head,  it  will  make  a  good 
derrick  for  getting  the  lower  rigging  over.) 


110.— GETTING  UP    TOP-BLOCKS,  &c. 

Top-blocks  are  large  single  blocks,  having  iron  straps,  which 
are  formed  after  being  put  round  the  block,  into  a  large  hook. 
Overhaul  down  the  girtlines  through  lubber's  hole ;  bend  one 
part  through  the  sheave  hole  of  the  block,  and  stop  it  to  the  back 
part  of  the  hook  ;  hoist  it  up,  and  lash  it  to  the  mast-head  around 
the  hook,  with  a  lashing  long  enough  to  allow  the  block  to  hang 
half-mast-head  high.  Through  this  block  reeve  a  hawser  ;  send 
the  foremost  end  down  through  the  square  hole  in  the  foremost 
part  of  the  trestle-trees  ;  the  after  end  through  the  lubber's  hole 
through  a  leading  block  on  deck,  and  round  the  capstan. 


111.— GETTING  UP   THE   TOPMAST. 

Take  two  half-hitches  through  the  fid-hole,  with  the  foremost 
end  of  the  hawser,  and  stop  the  hawser  well  round  the  hounds 
of  the  topmast  with  a  good  lashing.  Man  the  capstan,  and  heave 
the  mast  up  and  down.  Unbend  the  hawser,  reeve  it  through 
the  sheave-hole  in  the  topmast;  send  a  hauling  line  down 
'.hrouffh  the  trestle-trees  for  the  end  of  the  hawser,  which  haul 


THE  KEDGE-  ANCHOR  , 


up  and  clinch  round  the  lower  mast-head  over  the  block.     Over- 
haul the  girtlines  down  before  all,  and  get  the  cap  into  the  top 

Note.  —  Pendant  tackles  may  be  used  to  a  greater  advantage 
than  a  hawser  in  pointing  a  topmast,  when  light  handed. 


112.— GETTING  THE  CAP  INTO  THE  TOP. 

Bend  the  foremost  end  of  the  girtlines,  which  were  sent  dawn 
before  all,  through  the  round  hole  in  the  cap,  and  stop  them  along 
to  the  after  part  of  the  square  hole,  keeping  the  bolts  in  the  cap  up* 
Man  the  girtlines  and  "  sway  away,"  bearing  well  off  the  fore  part 
of  the  top.  When  high  enough,  lowrer,  and  place  the  round  hole  over 
the  square  hole  in  the  trestle-trees.  Sway  the  topmast  well  through 
and  lash  it  securely  to  the  cap ;  put  a  capstan  bar  in  the  fid-hole 
with  a  hauling  line  on  the  end,  and  heave  the  topmast  up  ; 
when  the  cap  is  clear  of  the  lower  mast-head,  haul  on  the  line 
from  the  bar  in  the  heel  of  the  topmast,  and  it  will  slue  the  mast 
and  bring  the  square  hole  of  the  cap  over  the  lower  masthead  ; 
ship  the  cap-shore,  then  lower  the  hawser,  or  tackle,  and  place 
the  cap,  beating  it  into  its  place.  Land  the  mast,  unreeve  the 
hawser,  unlash  the  top  blocks,  and  hook  them  to  their  proper 
bolts  on  each  side  of  the  cap ;  reeve  the  hawser  through  one 
block,  through  the  trestle-trees,  through  the  sheave  in  the  top-mast 
up  through  trestle-trees  again,  and  reeve  the  end  through  the 
foremost  bolt  in  the  cap  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  block  ;  before 
reeving  it  through,  parcel  it  well ;  take  two  half-hitches  on  its 
own,  or  standing  part,  and  secure  the  end  with  a  round  seiz- 
ing of  spun-yarn.  Bring  the  hawser  to  the  capstan,  heave  the 
topmast  up  and  try  the  fit ;  (then  lower  away,  get  the  topmast  or 
deck,  and  try  the  other  set) ;  and  then  lower  the  mast  for  rigging 
Secure  the  girtline  blocks  to  eye-bolts  in  the  cap,  or  to  the  top 
mast  cross-trees. 

Note. — The  stop  should  be  taken  off  the  hounds  of  the  topmast 
directly  it  is  pointed  through  the  trestle-trees ;  and  when  getting  or 
deck,  after  it  is  landed,  single  the  hawser  the  same  as  when  get 
ting  up  and  down,  and  stop  it  to  the  hounds ;  then  have  sli{ 
ropes  on  the  heel  to  haul  it  forward  or  aft,  whether  fore  or  main 
and  place  it  on  the  chocks,  for  stowing  on  the  booms.  A  fore- 
topmast  is  generally  stowed  with  the  head  forward  ;  a  main  witl 
the  head  aft ;  both  heads  are  sometimes  stowed  forward,  a  prac- 
tice that  is  frequently  adopted  at  the  present  day. 


*  The  object  of  keeping  Mie  bolts  up  in  getting  the  cap  into  the  top,  is,  that  they 
may  not  catch  on  the  top  rim  and  cause  delay,  and  perhaps  injurj  (It  is  no 
intended  to  be  shipped  so.) 


OR  YOCJJNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  53 


113.— TURNING  IN   DEAD-EYES. 

If  in  the  loft,  get  the  length  from  the  mast-head  to  the  deck, 
from  the  draft,  if  the  masts  are  not  stepped,  and  place  the  dead- 
eye  to  that  length,  making  due  allowance  for  stretching  in  set- 
ting up.  Turn  the  dead-eye  in  as  near  the  end  as  possible,  so 
that  all  parts  of  the  shroud  may  be  equally  stretched,  which  will 
prevent  its  having  a  gouty  end. 

The  principal  caution  is  to  keep  the  lay  in  the  rope,  as  it  pre- 
vents the  wet  getting  in.  If  the  shroud  is  to  be  wormed,  and 
served  in  the  wake  of  the  dead-eye,  the  worming  should  not 
be  hove  in  too  taut,  as  breaking  the  shroud  round  the  dead-eye 
would  probably  snap  it. 

The  score  being  well  tarred,  the  end  of  the  shroud  is  taken  un- 
derneath, round  the  dead-eye,  inside  standing,  or  mast-heaoVpart ; 
a  bolt  is  put  in  a  hole  of  the  dead-eye.  Take  a  good  strand,  knot 
both  ends  together  ;  it  is  then  middled  and  crossed  round  the  end 
of  the  shroud  ;  both  bights  are  taken  round  the  bolt,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  dead-eye,  and  a  smaller  bolt  put  in  each  bight,  which 
are  hove  round  the  large  bolt  in  the  dead-eye.  As  the  turns  ac- 
cumulate, it  heaves  the  shroud  taut  round.  The  dead-eye  should 
be  secured  through  one  of  the  holes  with  spun  yarn  to  the  shroud 
before  heaving,  where  the  shroud  is  marked,  for  the  lower  part. 
When  the  dead-eye  is  turned  in,  in  a  loft,  the  shroud  is  hove  in 
with  a  jigger,  (or  dead-eye  machine). 

When  the  shroud  is  hove  well  round,  pass  a  good  throat-seiz- 
ing. When  secured,  take  out  the  bolts,  get  a  small  jigger,  hook 
one  end  to  a  strap  round  the  end  of  the  shroud,  and  the  other  t.o 
the  mast-head  part ;  take  a  good  strand,  knot  both  ends  together, 
take  it  round  the  end  and  standing  or  masthead  part ;  put  a  bolt 
in  both  bights,  and  heave  it  round,  pulling  up  the  jigger  at  the 
same  time ;  this  will  bring  the  end  taut  up,  as  heaving  on  the 
strap  brings  both  parts  close  together;  then  pass  a  round,  or 
quarter  seizing,  and  a  smaller  one  on  the  end. 

If  the  rigging  is  turned  in  on  shore,  keep  the  lay  in  the  rope, 
and  when  sent  out  of  the  loft,  to  be  placed  on  the  mast-head,  keep 
the  ends  inside,  the  shrouds  being  marked  with  a  knot  or  a  piece 
of  spun-yarn,  according  to  the  number.  The  ends  will  lay  aft 
on  one  side,  and  forward  on  the  other ;  this  is  of  importance  and 
should  be  remembered. 

Turning  in  dead-eyes,  termed  Cutter  stay-fashion. — The 
lead-eye  being  placed  to  the  mark,  the  end  is  passed  round  it  as 
before,  but  instead  of  being  secured  with  a  throat-seizing,  the  end 
is  passed  round  the  standing-part  and  seized  to  the  part  round 
the  dead-eye  with  a  round-seizing,  and  another  on  the  end, 
further  round  the  dead-eye.  The  same  precaution  as  in  the 
other  way,  keep  the  lay  in  the  rope  and  end  inside. 


64  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Note. — Worming  and  serving  shrouds  in  the  wake  of  the  dead- 
eyes  is  not  a  common  practice  in  all  ships,  but  I  would  recom- 
mend it  as  a  great  preservative  to  the  shrouds,  if  they  were  served 
at  least  six  feet  above  the  dead-eyes.  I  have  known  of  many 
gangs  of  rigging  condemned  on  account  of  the  shrouds  being 
magged  and  chafed  in  the  wake  of  the  dead-eyes  and  throat-seiz- 
ing, for  want  of  service,  when  all  other  parts  of  the  shrouds  were 
found  to  be  good. 


114.— GETTING  TOPMAST  CROSSTREES  OVER. 

Overhaul  a  girtline  through  the  round  hole  in  the  cap ;  and 
if  they  are  to  go  up  from  the  starboard  side,  overhaul  and  send 
it  down,  and  the  after  girtline  outside  the  top ;  hitch  that  through 
the  round  hole  in  the  cap,  well  out  on  the  starboard  foremost 
horns  underneath,  and  secure  the  end  with  a  good  seizing  of 
spun-yarn  ;  the  after  one  bend  on  in  the  same  way,  to  the  after 
starboard  horn  ;  then  stop  both  girtlines  well  with  spun-yarn, 
close  to  the  trestle-trees,  and  also  with  two  stops,  on  the  larboard 
horns  ;  "  sway  away ;"  having  a  guy  from  the  deck  to  clear  it 
of  the  top,  as  it  goes  aloft.  When  the  upper,  or  larboard  horns 
are  well  clear  of  the  cap,  take  two  rope's  ends  from  the  larboard 
side  of  the  top,  and  bend  them  to  the  larboard  horns,  and  man 
them  in  the  top — these  are  called  "  steadying  lines,"  and  are  used 
to  prevent  the  crosstrees  falling  back,  if  a  stop  is  cut  too  soon, 
and  to  assist  in  getting  the  crosstrees  on  the  cap,  and  over  the 
mast-head.  "  Sway  higher,"  cutting  the  stops,  and  hauling  on 
the  steadying  lines.  When  the  trestle-trees  are  as  high  up  as 
possible  on  the  cap,  haul  on  the  steadying  lines,  and  cut  the  stops 
close  to  the  trestle-trees  on  the  starboard  side,  and  the  crosstrees 
will  fall  across  the  cap ;  then  place  the  after  hole  between  the 
trestle-trees,  over  the  round  hole  in  the  cap — cast  off  the  girtlines 
and  steadying  lines — white-lead  the  mast-head  in  the  wake  of  the 
crosstrees,  and  swray  the  topmast  through  ;  beat  the  crosstrees 
well  down  on  the  mast-head ;  and  when  placed,  sway  the  top- 
mast a  few  feet  higher  for  rigging.  Pass  a  lashing  through  the 
fid-hole,  and  round  the  lower  mast,  to  steady  it. 

The  topmasts  are  sometimes  fidded  before  rigging,  to  avoid  the 
greater  strain  upon  the  top  tackles.  If  a  topmast  has  only  one 
sheave  (like  a  mizen  topmast),  it  is  a  good  precaution  to  reeve  a 
hawser  through  the  fid-hole,  and  haul  it  taut,  as  the  mast  goes 
aloft ;  unreeving  it  only  when  the  mast  is  high  enough  for  fid- 
ding,  or  previous  to  the  squares  entering  the  trestle-trees. 


OR    YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT 


65 


115.— PLACING  TOPMAST  RIGGING. 

Tar  the  masthead  in  the  wake  of  the  rigging ;  send  the  bol- 
sters aloft,  and  stop  .them.  After  the  bolsters  are  on,  put  over 
first  the  mast-head  pendants — then  the  span  for  ginn  blocks ; 
then  follows  the  straps,  with  thimble  in  for  standing  part  of 
the  tyes — next,  first  pair  of  shrouds  on  the  starboard  side,  then 
the  larboard  ;  and  so  on,  until  all  are  over  ;  then  lash  the  breast 
backstay  (if  single) ;  if  a  pair,  put  them  over  the  same  as  a 
shroud  ;  next  the  after  backstays ;  lash  the  stays,  if  fitted  for  it, 
if  not,  put  them  over  the  same  as  lower  stays,  with  mousings, 
The  collars  of  the  stays  go  between  the  cross-trees,  and  lash  over 
the  after  one.  Some  prefer  chain  spans.  The  most  approved 
method  is  an  iron  plate,  with  a  hook  on  each  end,  which  lays 
across  the  trestle-trees. 


116 TO  SEIZE-IN  THE  SISTER-BLOCKS. 

There  is  a  score  on  each  side  to  take  the  shroud,  and  three 
scores  for  seizing — one  on  each  end,  and  one  between  both 
sheaves.  They  are  seized-in  the  length  of  the  hanging  block, 
from  the  eye-seizing,  to  prevent  any  risk  of  the  reef-tackle  and 
lift  being  jammed  between  the  hanging  blocks  and  the  rigging — 


56  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

one  seizing  is  passed  round  the  shrouds,  above  the  block,  anothei 
below  the  block  ;  and  a  small  seizing  put  on  each  score,  round 
the  block  and  shrouds.  The  topsail-lift  leads  through  the  lower 
sheave,  and  reef  tackle  through  the  upper  one. 

The  larboard  block  should  be  seized-in  once  the  diameter  of 
the  shroud  lower  than  the  other,  as,  if  both  are  seized  alike 
(the  starboard  shroud  goiag  over  first)  they  would  not  be  square 
when  the  rigging  is  placed. 


117  .—BACKSTAYS,  (BREAST,) 

When  in  pairs,  are  fitted  with  eyes,  the  same  as  the  shrouds, 
and  served  sufficiently  far  down  to  be  square  with  the  service  of 
the  topmast  shrouds.  They  are  also  parceled  and  served  in  the 
way  of  the  lower  yards,  when  braced  up.  When  there  is  only 
one  backstay  it  is  secured  round  the  mast-head  with  a  lashing 
passed  iound  it,  through  an  eye  spliced  in  ;*  they  are  set  up  to  a 
treble  block  in  the  channels.  Through  these  blocks  a  fall  is 
rove,  the  standing  part  being  spliced  into  the  strap  of  the  double 
block,  and  then  led  from  the  treble  block  through  a  fair  leader  in 
the  side,  in  on  deck. 

Note. — I  have  seen  ships  without  breast  backstays  on  any 
mast,  and  they  carried  sail  equally  well  with  those  who  had  them ; 
one  was  the  Independence  razee :  her  breast  backstays  were  con- 
verted into  standing  ones,  and  set  up  a  little  further  aft,  or  imme- 
diately forward  of  the  proper  standing  backstays. 

Breast  backstays  are  generally  pulled  up  in  stays  when  the 
ship  is  head  to  wind,  having  a  quarter-watch  of  topmen  stationed 
by  them.  If  they  should  be  set  up  too  taut,  whch  may  be  the 
case,  especially  when  the  rigging  is  slack,  they  are  likely  to  snap 
and  endanger  the  mast  by  the  sudden  jerk  ;  if  not  set  up  enough, 
they  can  be  of  no  use,  and  are  only  an  additional  weight  on  the 
mast-heads,  and  a  useless  expenditure  of  rope.  Their  being  set 
up  to  bear  an  equal  strain  with  the  rigging,  will  not  occur  with 
the  greatest  care  once  in  a  year,  and  I  consider  them  particularly 
injurious  on  top-gallant-masts.  A  good  stout  standing'  backstay 
is  the  main  support. 


*  Some  are  fitted  with  a  cut  splice. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  67 

1  18.— STANDING  AFTER-BACKSTAYS, 

h  When  in  pairs,  are  fitted  with  an  eye  the  same 

as  topmost  rigging.  When  an  odd  one  on  each 
side,  they  are  fitted  with  a  horse  shoe.  They 
are  now  fitted  the  same  size  as  lower  rigging. 

The  backstays  are  set  up  with  a  lanyard  rove 
through  dead-eyes,  the  same  as  shrouds,  having 
service  in  the  wake  of  the  lower  yards  and  tops. 


119 — MAIN   TOPMAST   STAY 

Is  fitted  of  the  same  size  as  the  standing  back  - 
stay.  A  large  clump  block  is  strapped  round  the 
foremast  head,  over  the  eyes  of  the  rigging,  and 
immediately  over  the  square  hole  in  the  after 
part  of  the  trestle-trees.  Through  this  block 
the  main  topmast  stay  is  rove  down,  through  the 
trestle-trees — has  a  thimble  turned  in  the  end, 
lanyard  spliced  and  rove  through  it,  and  set  up 
to  a  span  shackle  in  the  deck,  abaft  the  foremast, 
for  the  purpose ;  or  a  large  bull's-eye  hooked  to 
an  eye-bolt,  and  set  up  on  the  end. 

The  spring  stay  leads  through  a  block  strap- 
ped round  the  foremast  above  the  cat-harpens, 
and  sets  up  in  the  fore-top. 


12O.— MIZEN  TOPMAST  STAY 

Is  rove  through  a  thimble  strapped  round  the 
mainmast-head,  over  the  eyes  of  the  rigging ; 
and  when  set  up,  is  secured  to  its  own  part  with 
round  seizings.  If  preferred,  it  can  be  set  up  with 
a  thimble  turned  into  the  end,  and  a  lanyard 
rove  through  it;  but  this  is  not  necessary. 
When  the  stays  are  wrell  stretched,  the  thimbles 
can  be  spliced  in,  but  it  is  not  a  good  plan ;  for, 
should  it  be  necessary  to  unreeve,  the  splice  must 
be  drawn,  which  will  injure  the  rope.  I  have 
seen  them  fitted  in  this  way,  and  pointed  ovei 


(38  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

for    neatness, — but  prefer  their  being  turned   in,  and  the  end 
pointed  or  capped. 

Note. — There  is  no  mizen  topmast  spring-stay. 


121.— GETTING  THE  TOPMAST  CAPS  ON. 

The  girtline  blocks  should  be  lashed  well  up  to  the  topmast 
head.  Overhaul  down  before  all  the  foremost  ends,  and  secure 
them  to  the  foremost  bolts  in  the  cap ;  stop  them  to  the  centre 
ones,  and  also  to  the  square  hole  in  the  after  part ;  sway  the  cap 
up  ; — when  well  up,  cut  the  after  stops,  sway  higher,  and  the  cap 
can  be  easily  placed  by  the  man  aloft,  and  girtlines  cast  off. 

If  the  cap  should  be  very  heavy,  use  a  derrick  ;  a  capstan  bai 
will  answer  the  purpose. 

Note. — Ship  the  capshore  the  same  time  you  place  the  cap. 


122.— MAST-HEAD  MAN  HOPES,  &c.  &c. 

A  piece  of  rope  has  an  eye  spliced  in  one  end,  and  several  over- 
handed  knots  made  on  the  bight,  at  equal  distances  from  each 
other.  They  should  be  long  enough  to  reach  a  third  down  the 
topmast  rigging,  and  seized  round  the  mast-head  close  to  the  cap  ; 
one  on  each  side  is  sufficient.  They  are  absolutely  necessary  in 
large  ships,  and  should  be  on  all. 

I  have  seen  them  in  some  very  neat  ships  ;  and,  when  it  is  re- 
collected the  small  space  the  men  have  for  their  feet  when  they  get 
near  the  crosstrees,  and  the  long  mast-head,  to  get  on  the  cap,  it 
is  certainly  worth  while  to  sacrifice  something  in  the  way  of  ap- 
pearance to  ensure  the  safety  of  a  man's  life. 

Some  large  ships  have  ladders  with  two  steps,  set  up  to  the 
eyes  of  the  topmast  rigging,  from  the  cap  ;  also,  spans  and  grab- 
ropes  fitted,  to  go  from  the  swifters  abreast  of  the  cap,  which  will 
be  found  very  convenient  for  the  topmen,  when  exercising  sails. 
These  may  appear  trifling  matters  to  some,  but  ships  fitted  with 
them  are  generally  ahead,  when  exercising  in  a  squadron. 


OR   YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


123.— TOP  TACKLE  PENDANTS,  &c. 

When  cut  to  the  required  length,  a  thimble,  well  parceled,  is 
spliced  into  one  end,  and  the  other  pointed,  with  a  becket  in  it. 
There  are  two  to  the  fore,  and  twTo  to  the  main  topmasts.  In  the 
heel  of  each  topmast  there  is  a  dumb  sheave ; — take  one  pendant 
and  reeve  it  through  the  top  block,  hooked  to  the  cap,  through 
the  trestle-trees,  through  the  dumb  sheave,  or  heel-block,  through 
an  eye-bolt  in  the  foremost  part  of  the  cap,  on  the  opposite  side 
to  the  block  ;  take  two  half-hitches,  and  secure  the  end  to  its 
own  part,  with  a  spun-yam  seizing  ;  hook  the  top  tackle  block 
to  the  thimble  in  the  pendant,  and  the  lower  one,  to  a  bolt  in  the 
deck  for  the  purpose ;  reeve  the  fall  through  a  leader,  and  bring  it 
to  the  capstan ;  heave  well  taut,  and  unreeve  the  hawser  by  which 
the  mast  was  formerly  hove  up  for  rigging. 

The  other  pendant  reeves  through  the  other  top-block,  through 
the  sheave  hole  in  the  topmast,  and  clenched  to  the  other  eye- 
bolt  in  the  fore  corner  of  the  cap ;  hook  the  blocks,  reeve  and 
bring  the  fall  to  the  capstan,  taking  the  other  off,  and  manning 
it  well.  When  no  capstan,  both  falls  must  be  well-manned  by 
hand. 

Top  Tackle  Falls  and  Blocks. — The  upper  block  is  double, 
strapped,  which  is  made  into  a  hook ;  the  lower  is  also  double^, 
and  should  be  iron-strapped,  having  a  swivel ;  a  single  one  is 
hooked  near  the  double  as  a  leading  block ;  the  fall  is  rove  ;  the 
standing  part  hitched,  or  clenched,  over  the  block ;  they  are  some- 
times spliced  in,  and  some  have  beckets. 

To  hook  the  double  block,  clap  a  single  tail-block  well  up  on 
the  pendant,  reeve  a  whip  through  it,  hitch  one  end  of  the  whip 
through  one  of  the  sheaves  of  the  double  block,  hoist  it  up,  and 
hook  it  to  the  pendant. 


124.— PREP ARING  TO  FID  THE  TOPMASTS. 

Capshores  should  be  stepped  and  secured,  luff  tackles  clapped 
on  all  the  stays  and  backstays.  Lower  blocks  should  not  be  hook- 
ed on  to  the  lanyards,  but  to  bolts  in  the  deck,  and  eye-bolts  or 
straps  in  the  chains ;  capstans  and  falls  manned,  topmast  rigging 
quite  clear,  and  hove  over  the  sides  of  the  tops,  and  the  topmasts 
hove  up  and  ridded,  mast  stayed,  rigging  set  up  fyc. 


70  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

1  25.— RATTLING  THE  LOWER  AND  TOPMAST  RIG 

GING. 

Cat-harpen  legs  and  futtock  shrouds  are  seized-on  and  set  up ; 
topmast  stayed,  rigging  and  backstays  set  up,  lanyards  secured 
as  lower  rigging, — then  commence  rattling  down. 

Girt  the  rigging  with  three  fore  and  aft  swifters — one  by  the 
shear  rail,  and  the  others  at  equal  distances,  as  follows  : — Make 
one  end  of  a  small  rope  fast  round  the  foremost  shroud,  take  a 
turn  round  the  next,  then  the  third,  and  so  on,  until  all  are  taken 
in ;  then  back  the  same  way,  and  half-hitch  it  round  the  first. 
The  swifter  should  be  just  taut,  and  not  so  as  to  bring  the 
shrouds  together, — the  object  being  to  make  the  ratlines  a  little 
tauter  wThen  let  go.  Sometimes  swTifters  are  not  used,  but  the  rat- 
lines are  never  so  square,  or  look  well.  Care  should  be  taken  that 
they  are  not  too  taut,  for,  when  let  go,  all  the  strain  will  come 
on  the  seizing  in  the  eyes  of  the  ratlines,  and  they  will  be  con- 
stantly snapping.  TWTO  swifters  on  each  side  are  sufficient  for 
the  topmast  rigging. 

Spar  the  rigging'  down,  writh  spare  spars,  such  as  studding-sail 
yards,  boat's  oars,  boat's  masts,  handspikes,  or  anything  light 
that  will  answer,  and  seize  them  to  the  shrouds  on  the  outside, 
at  equal  distances,  leaving  sufficient  space  for  three  or  four  rat- 
lines between  each  spar. 

A  coil  of  small  well-stretched  rope  is  placed  on  each  side  of  the 
deck,  two  or  three  on  a  side  when  required  to  be  done  quick. 
Splice  an  eye  in  one  end  of  the  rattling  stuff,  seize  it  to  the  first 
shroud,  and  then  commence  clove-hitching  on  the  second,  and  so 
on  to  the  after,  but  one ;  then  measure  the  distance  from  that  to 
the  last,  cut  it  off,  and  splice  an  eye  in  the  end.  Beat  the  hitches 
well  round  each  shroud,  seize  the  end  to  the  foremost  one,  and 
also  the  other  eye  to  the  after  one,  and  rattle  up,  taking  the  sheai 
of  the  rails.  The  hitches  are  formed  on  the  outside,  and  at  equal 
distances  ;  in  three  or  four  places  take  a  ratline  to  the  after  swift- 
er j — these  are  called  shear  ratlines. 

When  it  is  necessary  to  rattle  quick,  take  three  ends  up  at  a 
time.  Fifteen  inches  is  a  good  distance  between  the  ratlines,  and 
their  places  should  be  chalked  off  all  the  way  up  and  down  before 
commencing.  Each  man  employed  should  have  a  measure  within 
his  reach,  and  care  should  be  taken  to  make  the  ratlines  on  one 
side  correspond  in  a  parallel  direction  with  those  of  the  other. 
This  can  only  be  seen  from  the  outside  of  the  ship.  Make  the 
hitches  neat,  and  the  eyes  small ;  few  things  tend  more  to  a  snu£- 
appearance. 

If  the  rigging  is  to  be  blacked,  after  rattling  down,  it  is  best  tc 
leave  the  spars  on  until  that  is  done,  taking  them  off  as  you 
black  down 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


126.— FUTTOCK-STAVES  IN  TOPMAST   RIGGING 

Are  iron  bolts  parceled  and  served ;  are  seized  to  the  shrouds 
Jie  length  of  the  hounds,  down  on  the  inside  ;  seizings  passed  as 
in  lower  rigging. 

Cat-harpen  leg's  on  topmast  rigging. — Take  the  length  from 
the  starboard  foremost  shroud  round  the  mast,  and  to  the  after 
one  on  the  same  side ;  get  a  piece  of  rope  this  length,  splice  an 
eye  in  each  end,  worm,  parcel,  and  serve  it.  There  are  two  on 
each  mast.  Seize  the  foremost  end  to  the  foremost  shroud  and 
futtock  stave,  take  it  round  the  mast  and  seize  it  to  the  after  one ; 
secure  one  to  the  larboard  side  in  the  same  manner. 

I  have  seen  them  go  from  the  foremost  starboard  shroud, 
straight  to  the  after  larboard  one,  crossing  abaft  the  mast.  They 
are  also  fitted  to  set  up  with  thimbles  and  a  lanyard,  abaft  the 
mast.  When  this  is  done,  both  eyes  are  seized  to  the  futtock 
staves  on  the  starboard  side,  a  thimble  seized  in  the  bight,  and 
set  up  abaft  the  mast  to  the  larboard  one,  with  a  lanyard  fitted 
in  the  same  way.  (Vessels  with  chain  topsail  ties  are  fitted  with 
iron  bands,  to  go  round  the  mast,  with  eyes  for  the  topgallant 
rigging  to  lead  through.) 


127.— TO   RIG  THE  JIB-BOOM. 

Hoist  the  jib-boom  on  board  by  the  hawser  or  tackle,  which  was 
left  at  the  foremast  head  when  getting  on  board  the  fore  topmast, 
run  the  end  out  on  the  bowsprit,  pointing  it  through  the  stays 
and  bowsprit  cap.  Reeve  the  heel-rope,  and  sway  the  jib-boom 
out  a  foot  or  two  beyond  the  cap.  Reeve  the  jib-stay  through 
the  hanks,  traveller  if  required,  and  then  through  the  inner 
sheave-hole,  in  the  boom  end,  martingale  and  necklace,  and  turn 
a  double  block  in  the  inner  end;  reeve  the  lanyard  or  fall 
through  this,  and  a  single  block  bolted  to  the  bows.  To  the 
traveler  seize  the  jib  downhaul  blocks  and  traveling  guys ;  tar 
the  boom  end,  put  a  grommet  over,  to  which  seize  the  fore  top 
gallant  bowline  blocks,  one  on  each  side. 

Foot  ropes. — There  is  one  on  each  side  of  the  jib-boom.  They 
should  be  long  enough  when  in  their  place  to  allow  a  man  to 
stand  navel-high  along  the  boom,  and  are  fitted  as  follows :  take 
a  piece  of  rope  long  enough  to  make  both ;  cut  it  in  the  centre 
and  splice  one  end  into  the  other  with  a  cut  splice,  forming  an 
eye  to  fit  the  jib-boom  end.  Four  or  five  overhand  knots  are 
taken  at  equal  distances  on  the  rope,  from  the  eye,  according  tc 


72  I'HE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

the  length  of  the  foot-rope  ;  the  knots  are  for  the  purpose  of  pre 
venting  the  men  from  slipping.  In  each  end  splice  a  small  eye. 
large  enough  to  take  a  lashing,  by  which  they  are  set  up  to  bolts 
in  the  bowsprit  cap.  An  eye  is  sometimes  made  by  taking  a 
round  turn  round  the  boom  end,  and  two  seizings  passed.  Also 
with  a  span,  horse-shoe  fashion,  and  neatly  covered  with  canvass. 

Note. — Turk's-heads  worked  through  the  strands,  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  knots  on  the  foot-ropes,  if  time  will  permit. 


128.— JIB-BOOM  MARTINGALE  STAY 

Is  a  short  rope,  with  an  eye  in  each  end  to  fit  the  jib-boom,  and 
end  of  the  dolphin-striker.  The  eyes  are  well  served,  and  cov- 
ered with  canvass  or  leather.  The  martingale  is  wormed,  and 
a  small  twine  seizing  (snaked)  put  on  round  the  worming  at 
equal  distances  between  the  eyes;  three,  or  four,  according  to 
the  length,  which  must  depend  on  the  way  the  dolphin-striker 
is  intended  to  stand,  or  rake.  It  looks  best  when  perpendiculai 
to  cap  or  jackstaff. 

Chain  is  sometimes  used  for  the  purpose,  as  also  for  back-ropes ; 
and  is  found  to  answer  well,  it  not  being  liable  to  stretch. 


129.— JIB-BOOM   GUYS. 

There  is  one  pair  on  each  side ;  an  eye  is  made  to  fit  the  boom 
end  by  passing  a  round  seizing,  when  in  their  place ;  both  ends 
are  rove  through  thimbles  on  each  yard-arm  of  spritsail  yard 
(when  crossed).  Then  brought  in  and  both  ends  set  up  to  bull's 
eyes  in  the  bow,  or  fitted  with  tackles. 

Placing  the  rigging  on  the  jib-boom.. — First,  the  foot-ropes ; 
next,  the  martingale  stay,  and  guys.  In  some  ships,  an  iron 
grummet  is  fitted  with  an  eye  on  top  and  one  underneath,  neatly 
leathered,  and  put  over  the  boom-end  first.  The  martingale  stay 
is  hooked  to  the  underneath  eye,  the  jib-tack  and  downhaul  to 
the  upper  one. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  73 

130.— MARTINGALE  BACK-ROPES 

Are  pendants,  middled  and  served  in  the  centre,  the  round  of 
the  dolphin  striker,  both  parts  crossed  and  secured  with  a  throat 
seizing.  The  service  should  be  long  enough  to  take  in  the  seiz- 
ing. In  the  ends  splice  a  single  or  double  block ;  another  single 
one  is  strapped  into  a  bolt  in  the  bow  for  the  purpose,  or  fitted  in 
a  strap  with  a  hook  and  thimble  (hook  moused).  A  gun  tackle, 
or  luff-purchase,  is  then  rove,  the  standing  part  of  the  fall  spliced 
round  the  pendant,  in  after  end  of  the  block,  rove  through  the  one 
in  the  bow,  over  the  head  rails,  back  through  the  one  in  the  pen- 
dant, and  through  a  fair  leading  sheave,  in  the  forecastle  bulwark. 
These  falls,  after  being  pulled  up,  are  racked  together  outside  the 
bulwark.  If  belayed  on  the  forecastle,  they  should  be  seized  to 
their  next  part,  so  as  not  to  to  let  go  by  mistake. 


131.— PLACING   THE   RIGGING    ON   A   DOLPHIN- 
STRIKER. 

Back-ropes  first,  and  next  the  martingale  ;  below  this  rigging, 
in  the  end  of  the  dolphin-striker,  are  two  or  three  sheaves,  and 
one  close  above  it,  large  enough  to  admit  the  jib-stay,  which  is 
rove  through  it ;  flying  jib-stay  in  the  next  sheave,  and  flying 
martingale  stay  under  all,  which  will  show  two  ropes  leading 
from  each  boom  end,  to  the  dolphin-striker. 


132.— GETTING  THE   JIB-BOOM   OUT. 

The  flying  jib-boom  iron  is  driven  on  ;  the  heel  rope  manned 
(if  rigged),  and  the  boom  hauled  out.  The  heel  strap  is  placed 
in  a  score  in  the  heel  for  the  purpose,  and  both  bights  lashed  to- 
gether; then  another  lashing  passed  round  the  strap,  between 
the  boom  and  the  bowsprit,  and  the  strap  well  frapped  together 
The  heel  being  well  secured,  set  up  the  back  ropes  and  guys. 

Note. — Rigging  to  be  placed  same  as  jib-boom. 


74  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


133.— SENDING   UP   TOPGALLANT   MASTS. 

The  topgallant  top  blocks  being  hooked,  we  will  suppose  the 
long  mast  rope  is  to  be  rove,  from  the  starboard  side  of  the  top- 
mast-cap ;  take  the  end  through  the  square  hole  in  the  fore  part 
of  the  trestle-trees,  half-hitch  it  through  the  fid-hole,  and  stop  it 
round  the  hounds ,  and  the  royal  mast-head  ;  send  the  hauling 
part  through  lubber's  hde,  and  through  a  leading  block  or  sheave 
on  deck.  The  topgallant  rigging  is  fitted  on  a  sheet-iron  cylindei 
or  funnel,  attached  to  the  jack  cross-trees  (by  an  order  from  the 
former  Navy  Commissioners),  leathered  and  painted  on  the  outside, 
and  tarred  on  the  inside ;  put  on  the  grommet  or  strap  for  the 
main  royal  stay*  to  reeve  through,  then  put  on  the  topgallant  and 
flying  jib-stays,  starboard  and  larboard  shrouds,  breast  and  stand- 
ing backstays,  and  secure  them  over  the  funnel ;  overhaul  the  girt- 
lines  down  on  deck,  and  bend  them  on  to  the  rigging,  around  all 
parts,  about  the  length  of  the  mast-head  below  the  jack,  and  a 
good  stop  through  the  funnel ;  hoist  the  funnel  up  and  place  it, 
with  the  rigging  on,  over  the  hole  in  the  cap,  and  take  the  stays 
forward  and  reeve  them. 

Man  the  mast-ropes  and  "  sway  away,"  having  men  stationed  to 
bear  off  and  place  the  rigging  or  funnel.  When  pointed  through 
the  funnel,  place  the  royal  rigging  and  truck,  reeve  the  signal 
halyards,  and  attach  the  conductor ;  "  sway  higher,"  land  the 
mast  on  the  top  or  forepart  of  lower  mast-cap,  and,  if  required, 
reeve  the  short  mast  rope  ;  reeve  the  pointed  end  through  a  block 
hooked  to  the  cap  on  the  larboard  side,  or  the  sheave,  then  through 
the  trestle-trees,  through  the  sheave-hole  in  the  topgallant-mast, 
up  through  the  trestle-trees,  and  secure  the  end  to  the  foremost 
bolt  in  the  cap,  with  two  half-hitches,  and  seize  the  end ;  to  the 
thimble  in  the  other  end,  hook  the  double  block  of  a  burton ;  hook 
the  single  one  to  a  strap  round  the  trestle-trees ;  send  the  burton 
fall  on  deck  through  lubber's  hole,  and  lead  it  through  a  single 
leading  block,  and  haul  it  taut ;  unreeve  the  long  mast  rope,  and 
fid  the  mast ;  when  the  fid  is  in,  the  mast  rope  can  be  unrove,  if 
wished. 

Reeve  the  ends  of  the  shrouds  through  the  horns  of  the  cross- 
trees,  between  the  topmast  rigging,  over  the  futtock  staves,  and 
turn  a  thimble  in  each  end  ;  strap  another  round  a  futtock  plate, 
inside  the  dead-eyes  of  top-mast  rigging ;  if  there  is  none  placed 
in  the  top,  splice  a  lanyard  into  that  in  each  shroud,  and  take  two 
or  three  turns  through  each,  stay  the  mast,  and  set  the  rigging 
and  backstays  up. 

In  setting  up  the  backstays  the  single  block  of  the  jigger,  which 
is  hooked  to  the  thimble,  is  hooked  to  a  blackwall  hitch,  in  the  lan- 

*  Suppose  this  to  be  the  fore  topgallant-mast. 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  %  75 

yard,  and  when  set  up,  expend  the  lanyard  through  the  thimbles 
and  seize  the  ends.  On  both  shrouds  on  each  side  clap  on  small 
jiggers,  hook  the  double  blocks  to  straps  on  the  shrouds,  the  sin- 
gle to  Blackwall  hitches  in  the  lanyards,  and  set  up  and  secure 
the  same  as  the  backstays. 

The  fore  topgallant  stay  reeves  through  the  outer  sheave-hole 
in  the  jib-boom,  and  through  a  bull's-eye  hooked  to  the  bows 
and  when  set  up,  is  seized  to  its  own  part. 

The  main  topgallant  stay  is  rove  through  the  middle  sheave 
in  the  after  chock  of  the  fore  topmast  crosstress,  or  through  a 
block  strapped  around  the  fore  mast-head,  and  set  up  in  the 
fore  top. 

The  mizen  topgallant  stay  is  rove  through  a  bull's-eye  in  the 
after  part  of  the  main  cap,  and  set  up  in  the  main  top. 


134.— ROYAL   RIGGING. 


There  is  one  breast,  and  after  backstay  on  each  side,  seized  as 
the  after  backstays  on  topgallant  masts.  The  breast  backstay 
or  shroud,  is  pulled  up  with  a  gun  tackle  purchase  ;*  the  after  leg 
has  a  thimble  turned  in,  and  sets  up  in  the  after  part  of  the 
chains,  with  a  lanyard. 

Royal  stays. — As  there  is  no  funnel  (although  it  would  be  a 
great  advantage  to  have  one),  splice  an  eye  in  the  stay  to  fit  the 
mast-head,  cover  it,  and  serve  over  the  splice.  It  goes  on  next 
to  the  grommet,  then  the  shroud  and  backstays,  spanned  together. 

The  fore  royal  stay  is  rove  through  the  outer  sheave-hole  in 
the  flying  jib-boom  end,  and  pulled  up  through  a  fair  leader  on 
the  forecastle. 

The  main  royal  stay  is  rove  through  a  thimble  stopped  around 
the  foretop  gallant  mast-head,  through  another  strapped  round 
the  eye  of  a  shroud,  and  when  set  up  is  seized  to  its  own  part. 

Mizen  royal  stay  reeves  through  a  sheave  in  the  after  part  of  the 
main  topmast  trestle-trees,  through  a  thimble  strapped  round  the 
eye  of  a  main  shroud,  and  seized  to  its  own  part. 


*  Royal-backstays  are  set  up  with  a  jigger  to  their  respective  places  in 
channels.    The  shrouds  are  set  up  in  the  top(breast-backstay-fashion. 
7 


76  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

135.— SHORT  AND  LONG  TOPGALLANT  MAST  ROPES 

Short  mast  ropes  have  a  thimble  spliced  in  one  end,  and 
the  other  end  pointed.  They  are  rove  when  the  mast  is  rigged, 
ind  are  used  for  ridding.  They  should  be  sufficiently  long  (when 
the  mast  is  landed  on  the  top  or  cap),  after  being  rove  through 
the  block  and  sheave  in  the  heel  of  the  mast,  and  clenched  to 
the  cap,  to  allow  the  thimble  to  hang  clear  of  the  cat-harpen  legs. 

If  the  topsail-yard  is  crossed,  the  mast  is  landed  on  it,  for  rig 
^ing ;  if  the  topgallant-mast  should  be  too  long  to  allow  its  be- 
ing landed  on  the  yard,  the  mast  rope  must  be  lengthened  ac- 
cordingly. 

Long  mast  ropes. — Ropes  are  often  fitted  for  the  purpose  ;  but 
the  topgallant  yard  rope  is  generally  used.  I  have  seen  them 
fitted  as  follows,  and  they  answered  very  well : — 

The  rope  is  rove,  and  stopped  to  the  topgallant-masthead,  and 
royal  sheave-hole,  leaving  a  long  end  over  the  upper  stop,  to 
hitch  to  the  bolt,  before  cutting  the  stops.  To  prevent  the  rope 
slipping,  rack  both  parts  together  above  the  sheave-hole  in  the 
heel  of  the  mast. 


136.— TO  RIG  THE  FLYING  JIB-BOOM. 

Sway  it  on  board  and  point  it  through  the  iron  at  the  jib-boom 
end.  A  tail  block  is  put  on  the  neck  of  the  iron,  or  on  the  jib- 
stay,  close  down  to  the  boom.  Through  this  block  reeve  the  heel 
rope,  one  end  taken  in  on  the  forecastle,  and  the  other  bent  to  the 
heel  of  the  boom.  A  rope  is  bent  to  the  heel  of  the  boom  to 
serve  as  a  guy ;  sway  the  boom  out  a  foot  or  two  for  rigging. 
Put  over  the  foot  ropes,  fitted  as  the  jib-boom,  the  inner  ends 
seized  to  the  jib-boom  end,  inside  the  iron.  The  martingale, 
when  single,  is  secured  round  the  boom  end,  clenched,  spliced,  or 
with  a  running  eye,  rove  through  a  sheave  in  the  dolphin-striker, 
and  in  on  the  forecastle,  on  the  opposite  side  to  the  royal  stay] 
When  double,  a  single  block  is  strapped  round  the  boom  end,  and 
the  standing  part  spliced  round  the  dolphin-striker  ;  hauling  part 
as  when  single. 

Guys. — One  on  each  side  spliced  into  each  other,  forming  a 
cut-splice  to  fit  the  boom  end.  The  other  end  rove  through 
thimbles,  strapped  round  the  spritsaii  yard,  through  fair  leaders 
in  the  bulwarks,  and  pulled  up  on  the  forecastle,  or  set  up  on  the 
bows. 


OR   YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  77 

Man  the  heel  rope  and  get  the  boom  out ;  the  heel  is  placed  in 
a  step  formed  on  the  fore  side  of  the  bowsprit  cap,  for  the  purpose, 
and  secured  with  a  lashing,  rove  through  the  end,  and  passed 
round  the  jib-boom.  Set  up  the  martingale,  stay  the  fore  topgal- 
lant and  royal  mast,  (fore  and  aft,)  by  the  stays  and  backstays  ; 
and  if  the  spritsail  yard  is  crossed,  reeve  the  guys,  turn  in  thim 
bles,  and  set  them  up. 


137.— SPRITS  AIL  LIFTS 

Are  single  ;  have  an  eye  spliced  in  one  end  to  fit  the  yard-arm  ; 
splices  served  over  are  taken  over  the  jib  guys,  rove  through 
the  bull's-eye  in  the  cap,  and  set  up  on  the  forecastle.  Blocks  are 
sometimes  strapped  into  the  bolts,  but  it  is  quite  unnecessary. 
Bolts  are  often  driven  into  the  fore  side  of  the  cap,  and  the  lifts 
led  through ;  when  this  is  done,  they  are  generally  set  up  there 
with  lanyards  and  thimbles,  spliced  into  the  end,  which  answers 
every  purpose. 


138.— SPRITSAIL  BRACES. 

A  single  block  is  strapped  in  toa  bolt  in  the  cheek  of  the  fore- 
mast on  each  side.  The  brace  has  an  eye  in  one  end,  to  fit  the 
yard  arm ;  the  other  is  rove  through  the  single  block,  on  collar  of 
fore-stay,  and  another  single  block  is  spliced  into  the  end ;  a  luff 
tackle  purchase  is  rove  with  it,  and  a  double  block  on  the  deck, 
one  sheave  answering  for  a  leading  one. 

They  are  sometimes  rove  double,  but  the  practice  is  getting  out 
of  date. 


139.— STRAPPING  THIMBLES  FOR  GUYS    ON   SPRIT- 
SAIL  YARDS. 

The  thimbles  are  double-strapped  and  secured,  after  being 
placed  round  the  yard,  and  in  the  score  of  the  thimbles,  with  a 
round  seizing  passed  between  the  thimble  and  the  yard ;  the 
splices  laying  in  the  upper  side  of  the  score  in  the  thimbles 


7tf  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Some  fit  grummet  straps,  or  a  short-long  splice,  in   the  strap  ioi 
neatness. 

The  use  of  double  straps  is  to  allow  the  thimbles  to  lay  fair 
with  the  yard  for  the  jib  guys  to  lead  through ;  if  single,  they 
would  stand  fore  and  aft. 


14O.— CROSSING  A  SPBITSAIL  YARD. 

The  yard  being  rigged,  prepare  for  crossing  as  follows  : 
Clap  a  good  selvagee  strap  well  up,  on  the  fore  topmast  stay ; 
to  it  hook  a  snatch  or  leading  block  large  enough  to  take  a  haw 
ser ;  reeve  it  and  timber-hitch  it  round  the  starboard  quarter  of 
the  spritsail  yard,  (if  got  out  on  the  starboard  side,)  stop  it  along 
to  the  larboard  quarter,  and  half  way  out  on  the  larboard  yard- 
arm.  Overhaul  down  the  lifts  and  braces,  and  sway  out,  keeping 
the  larboard  yard-arm  under  the  bowsprit ;  when  clear  on  the 
larboard  side,  put  over  the  brace,  or  block,  and  lift,  and  haul  out ; 
when  nearly  out,  or  before  clear  of  the  head  rails,  put  over  the 
starboard  brace  or  block  and  lift ;  haul  on  the  hawser,  starboard 
lift,  and  brace,  and  cast  off  the  stops.  When  sufficiently  out, 
pass  the  parrel,  take  a  turn  or  hold  well  on  the  end  ;  hook  the 
tye,  and  square  the  yard.  Cast  off  the  hawser  and  unreeve  it; 
reeve  the  jib-guys  through  their  thimbles  on  the  spritsail  yard, 
turn  in  dead-eyes  or  blocks,  and  set  them  up  to  others  on  the 
bows ;  set  all  up  taut  and  square  the  yard. 


141.— TWO  HALF  SPRITSAIL  YARDS. 

Two  half  spritsail  yards,  made  like  dolphin-strikers,  are  se- 
cured to  the  bowsprit  with  jaws,  (or  an  iron  band  fitted  round  the 
bowsprit,  with  a  double  goose-neck  hinge,)  to  cant  or  turn  in 
any  required  direction.  When  the  half  spiritsail  yard  is  carried 
it  is  rigged  as  follows  : — 

The  fore  guys  are  made  of  well  stretched  rope,  and  equal  in 
strength  to  the  jib  guys  together,  each  fitted  with  an  artificial 
eye  to  fit  the  jib-boom  end  and  half  yard-arm.  They  should  be 
wormed  with  small  rope,  parceled  and  served,  or  covered  in  the 
eyes ;  four  stranded  rope  is  preferable,  it  being  not  so  liable  to 
stretch  as  three. 

The  after  guys  are  fitted  with  an  artificial  eye  in  one  end,  to 
fit  the  yard  arm,  and  a  thimble  spliced  into  the  other.  They  are 
the  same  size  as  the  fore  guys,  and  wormed  in  the  same  manner 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  79 

If  made  on  purpose,  and  four-stranded,  the  thimble  is  kept  in  the 
bight  with  a  round  seizing-. 

The  jumper,  or  lower  guy,  is  fitted  the  same  as  the  after,  only 
shorter ;  the  length  of  this  depends  on  the  drop  intended  to  be 
given  to  the  yard  arm,  which  should  never  be  less  than  the  sprit- 
sail  yard,  when  well  braced  up,  or,  in  other  words,  canted. 

The  jumper  is  put  on  the  yard  arm  first,  then  the  after  one, 
next,  the  foremost,  and  over  the  jib-boom.  The  after  one  is  set 
up  to  a  bolt  by  the  cat-head,  well  down ;  the  lower,  to  an  eye- 
bolt  in  each  side  of  the  cutwater,  wTell  out. 

For  a  frigate,  the  guys  are  eight-and-a-half-inch,  and  wormed 
with  twenty-one  thread  stuff.  Four-stranded  rope,  if  made  on 
purpose,  can  have  the  eyes  formed  when  laying  up  in  the  rope 
walk.  Some  fit  forward  and  after  guys  all  in  one. 


142.— WHISKERS. 

Whiskers  are  iron  outriggers  from  the  cathead,  with  sheaves 
m  them  for  the  guys  to  reeve  through,  and  set  up  to  the  fore 
chains,  the  same  as  when  rove  through  the  spritsail  yard.  This 
plan  is  much  in  use  in  small  vessels,  but  the  boom  is  supported 
almost  entirely  by  the  martingale,  as  the  guys  being  considerably 
above  the  boom,  and  its  always  topping  up,  when  the  sail  is  set 
on  a  wind,  the  more  wind  the  greater  the  strain  on  the  martin- 
gale ;  and  should  the  guys  be  not  carefully  pulled  up,  .the  boom 
must  depend  on  the  martingale  entirely  for  support. 


.— TO  GET  ON  BOARD  AND  RIG  LOWER  YARDS. 

Overhaul  the  hawser  from  the  lower  mast-head,  bend  on  to  the 
slings  of  the  yard,  and  get  them  nearly  up  and  down  ;  clap  sel- 
vagees  on  the  quarters,  to  which  hook  the  pendant  tackles.  As 
it  comes  on  board,  cut  the  stops,  easing  away  on  the  pendant 
tackle,  and  bousing  on  the  other,  until  the  yard  is  athwart-ships  • 
place  chocks  in  the  hammock  nettings  for  the  yard  to  rest  on 
slue  them  fair,  and  lash  them ;  come  up  the  tackles,  cast  off  the 
hawsers,  and  place  a  shore  under  the  middle  of  the  yard  to  prevent 
its  springing.  Measure  the  yard,  tar  and  leather  the  slings,  fit  a 
saddle  for  the  D  thimble,  which  lash  on  with  a  piece  of  well 
stretched  rope,  heaving  each  turn  taut  with  a  Spanish  windlass, 
and  fitting  the  score  of  the  D  thimble.  Cover  all  with  leather, 
and  fit  the  straps  for  the  preventer  slings,  &c.,  &c.,  (fee. 

Note. — The  iron  sling-bands  are  nov  used  instead  of  the  old 
fashioned  D  thimble. 


80  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

Chain  is  now  generally  used,  and  allowed  lo  all  ships  in  the 
service  for  the  slings  (proper),  rope  ones  being  used  as  preventers. 
(See  Rigging  Table.) 


144.— rilUSS  STRAPS. 

A  large  thimble  with  the  score  well  parceled,  is  seized  into  a 
double  strap,  which  is  made  by  splicing  both  ends  together,  and 
served  over  ;  the  thimble  secured  in  the  strap  with  a  round  seizing, 
the  splice  laying  in  the  score.  The  strap  should  be  long  enough 
to  go  round  the  yard  in  the  quarter,  both  eyes  lashing  together 
on  the  fore  side.  There  are  two  on  each  yard.  One  thimble  is 
seized  inside  the  truss  pendant,  the  other  outside ;  and  one  in  the 
round  of  the  pendant  higher  up  than  the  other. 


145.— TRUSS  PENDANTS* 

Are  wormed,  parceled,  and  served ;  an  eye  is  spliced  in  one 
end  large  enough  to  take  the  pendant  when  rove  through  it ;  in 
the  other  an  artificial  eye  is  made,  large  enough  to  take  the  single 
block  for  truss  fall.  The  pendant  should  be  rove  through  the 
small  eye  before  the  artificial  one  is  made,  boused  well  taut  round 
the  yard,  the  eye  being  kept  underneath,  and  one  pendant  higher 
than  the  other.  Reeve  the  upper  pendant  through  the  upper 
thimble,  and  lower  pendant  through  lower  thimble.  Being  rove 
in  this  manner,  they  will  lead  perfectly  clear  of  each  other. 

Hide  rope  is  preferable  for  pendants,  but  the  iron  patent  truss 
is  now  allowed  to  all  vessels,  up  to  a  second  class  frigate  inclu- 
sive. (New  regulation}. 


146.— QUARTER  BLOCKS— LOWER  YARDS. 

Quarter  or  topsail  sheet  blocks  are  large  single  blocks,  with 
double  straps ;  the  block  seized  in  with  a  round  seizing,  and  se- 
cured round  the  yard,  (inside  the  cleat,  one  on  each  side.)  with  a 
rose-lashing  passed  through  both  bights  on  the  top  of  the  yard 


*  For  length  and  size,  see  Rigging  Table. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  g] 

Before  the  lashing  is  passed,  the  block  should  be  hove  up  with 
heavers,  and  the  eyes  of  the  strap  brought  as  close  together  as 
possible.  This  is  done  with  a  good  strand  passed  through  both, 
and  hove  up  with  a  Spanish  windlass.  Vessels  carrying  chain  top- 
sail sheets,  have  iron  blocks  fitted  to  the  iron  bands  in  the  slings 
of  the  yard  for  that  purpose.  (See  Rigging  Table). 


147.— CLEW  GARNET  BLOCKS 

Are  single ;  seized  into  a  single  strap,  with  an  eye  spliced  in 
each  end,  and  are  secured  round  the  yard  with  a  rose-lashing,  the 
same  as  the  topsail  sheet  blocks,  just  outside  the  cleats.  Some 
ships  have  all  the  rigging  inside  the  cleats,  which  is  much  neater. 

Note. — Iron  bound  blocks  are  allowed  to  all  classes  of  vessels 
in  the  navy,  by  the  new  regulation,  for  this  purpose. 


148.— LIFT  BLOCKS— LOWER  fARDS 

Are  single,  seized  into  a  single  strap,  with  a  round  seizing ; 
the  strap  being  long  enough  to  go  over  the  yard  arm,  after  the 
clock  is  seized  in.  If  both  ends  are  spliced  together,  the  splice 
should  lay  in  the  score  of  the  block,  or  upper  side ;  but  a  grum- 
met will  answer  equally  as  well,  and  look  snugger. 


149.— FOOT   ROPES  AND  STIRRUPS. 

The  foot  ropes  are  cut  once-and-a-half  the  length  of  the  yard, 
^excepting  lower  yards).  An  eye,  to  fit  the  yard  arm,  is  spliced 
In  one  end  ;  and  a  small  one,  to  take  a  seizing,  in  the  other.  The 
splicing  served  in  the  way  of  chafing  (one-third)  midship  part. 

Stirrups  are  short  pieces  of  rope  spliced  round  the  foot  rope ; 
eyes  spliced  in  the  opposite  ends,  to  go  over  the  jackstay-bolts ; 
splices  served  over.  They  are  sometimes  unlaid  at  one  end  and 
made  into  plait,  and  secured  to  the  yard  with  flat-headed  nails, 
having  a  small  piece  of  hide  or  leather  placed  under  their  heads 
before  being  driven  into  the  yard.  Going  over  the  jackstay  bolts 


g2  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR: 

is  preferable;  and  some  seize  it  to  the  neck  of  the  bolt, or  staple 
They  hang  on  the  after  side  of  all  yards. 

Some  vessels  have  their  foot  ropes  fitted  to  go  abaft  the  mast^ 
and  seized  to  the  parrel,  which  answers  a  very  good  purpose,  es- 
pecially in  vessels  with  raking  masts,  as  it  gives  the  men  a  better 
opportunity  to  stand. 


15O JACKSTAYS.— BENDING  AND  REEFING. 

Take  a  piece  of  rope  of  the  proper  size,*  cut  off  the  length  of 
the  yard,  splice  an  eye  in  each  end,  to  fit  the  yard  arm,  sufficiently 
taut  to  require  being  driven  on.  Cut  in  the  centre,  and  splice  a 
thimble  in  each  end ;  put  the  strands  for  splicing  in  once-and-a- 
half,  marl  down,  and  serve  over.  If  two  jackstays  on  each  arm, 
(which  should  always  be  the  case  when  the  sail  is  reefed  to  one), 
the  large  one,  before  splicing  the  thimbles  in,  is  rove  through  the 
eye-bolts  on  the  yard  for  the  purpose  ;  this  is  the  reefing  jackstay. 
The  bending  one  is  fitted  the  same  way,  and  after  being  put  over 
the  yard  arm,  is  seized  to  the  neck  of  the  bolts  on  the  after  side. 

This  plan  has  been  generally  adopted,  as  it  was  found  much 
easier  to  reef,  than  when  fitted  with  only  one  jackstay ;  there  be- 
ing always  difficulty  and  delay  in  getting  the  points  between  the 
jackstay  and  the  yard,  when  the  sail  was  bent  to  it.  When  only 
one  jackstay,  it  is  rove  through  the  eye-bolts. 

Note. — Iron  bending  jackstays  are  now  allowed  for  all  vessels 
in  the  navy. 


151.— BRACE  BLOCKS.— LOWER  YARDS. 

The  straps  should  be  fitted  sufficiently  taut  to  require  being 
being  driven  on  the  yard  arm.  Two  thimbles  are  fitted,  one 
within  the  other,  called  lock  thimbles.  Take  a  piece  of  rope,  of 
the  proper  size,  and  cut  it  long  enough  to  go  round  one  thimble 
and  the  yard,  when  spliced  together ;  worm,  parcel  and  serve  it, 
and  pass  a  round  seizing  round  this  strap,  close  to  the  thimble. 
Grommet  straps  are  preferable,  if  time  will  permit. 

The  block  is  a  large  single  one,  with  two  scores.  For  the  strap 
take  a  piece  of  rope  the  required  length,  and  splice  both  ends  to- 


*  For  the  length  air3  size  of  rope,  see  Rigging  Table 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  83 

Cether  ;  worm,  parcel,  and  serve  it ;  reeve  it  through  the  thimble 
already  strapped,  and  pass  both  parts  round  the  score  of  the  other 
thimble ;  then  place  both  bights  in  the  scores  in  the  brace  block, 
keeping  the  splice  in  the  after  end  of  the  block ;  pass  a  round 
seizing  between  the  block  and  thimble,  crossing  it  both  ways,  as 
in  a  double  strap. 

Cross-jack  brace-blocks  are  single,  and  strapped  the  same  as 
lower  ones.  A  double  block  is  secured  to  the  after  shrouds  in 
the  main  rigging,  the  same  as  main  preventer  brace  blocks. 
When  reeving  the  cross-jack  braces,  one  end  of  the  brace  is 
clinched,  spliced,  or  half-hitched,  and  the  end  seized,  just  below 
the  block ;  then  rove  through  the  block  on  the  yard,  through  the 
inside  sheave  in  double  block,  and  through  a  fair  leading  sheave 
in  a  rack,  in  the  side  or  a  leading  block.  I  have  seen  blocks 
strapped  into  bolts  on  the  main-mast,  fcr  the  brace  and  bowline, 
which  answered  well.  The  brace  block  should  be  put  on  the 
yard,  sufficiently  far  in  to  be  inside  the  topmast  backstays,  when 
braced  up. 

Note. — These  braces  should  be  well  below  the  yard,  as  it  al- 
ways tops  up  on  the  wind,  which  slacks  the  weather  leech ;  this 
is  partly  the  reason  a  mizen-topsail  never  stands  well. 


152.— PLACING  THE  RIGGING  OX  LOWER  YARDS. 

Sling  bands  in  the  centre,  and  also  on  both  sides,  close  to  the 
topsail  sheet  block,  the  truss  pendants,  then  truss  straps ;  if  the 
rigging  is  all  within  the  cleats,  a  clue  garnet  block  is  lashed  on 
each  side  ;  if  not,  they  are  lashed  one  on  each  side,  close  outside. 
I  have  seen  them  both  ways,  but  inside  is  preferable. 

Tar  well  the  yard  arm,  close  to  the  cleats  and  slings,  in  the 
wake  of  the  rigging,  first  jackstay ;  if  two,  the  bending  one,  and 
set  it  up  amidships  with  a  lanyard.  Then  the  foot  ropes;  after 
going  over  the  yard  arm,  and  rove  through  the  stirrups,  they  are 
lashed  together,  with  a  lanyard  rove  through  both  thimbles,  and 
are  secured  with  a  good  seizing  to  the  strap  of  quarter  block. 
Then  the  brace,  and  lift  blocks.  Rolling  tackle  straps  on  the 
inner  quarter  of  yard,  with  the  eye  abaft  burton  straps  on  the 
outer  quarter  yard-ana,  eye  on  top  of  yard. 

If  the  stirrups  go  o\  er  the  jackstay  bolts,  they  should  be  put 
over  before  the  jackstay  is  rove. 

The  cross  jack-yard  Las  no  jackstay,  head  earings,  or  yard 
tackle  straps;  and  the  brace  blocks,  instead  of  going  over  the 
yard-arm,  are  put  on  some  distance  inside  of  the  sheave  hole  foi 
the  mizen-topsail  sheets,  on  the  forward  side  of  the  yard. 


84  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR: 

153.— GETTING   UP   JEER-BLOCKS,  AND   REEVTKG 

JEERS. 

Secure  two  single  whip  blocks  to  the  after  bolts  in  lower  cap 
Send  the  two  foremost  ends  through  lubber's  hole  down  on  deck ; 
bend  them  through  the  shell  of  the  block,  with  two  half-hitches, 
and  seize  the  end.  Stop  them  along  each  leg  of  the  strap,  the 
larboard  whip  to  the  larboard  leg,  and  the  starboard  whip  to  the 
starboard  leg;  then  stop  both  legs  together  with  a  seizing  oi 
spun-yarn  in  the  bights — the  hauling  part  of  the  whips  being 
through  lubber's  hole  and  through  a  leading  block  ou  deck  ;  man 
them  and  hoist  the  blocks  into  their  places.  When  clear  of  the 
top,  cut  the  stop  in  the  bights,  haul  on  the  whips,  and  they  will 
bring  the  strap  into  its  place,  on  each  side  of  the  mast-head. 
Then  cut  the  upper  stops,  on  the  whips ;  take  a  turn  and  pass 
the  lashing  in  the  bight,  securing  each  end  to  their  next  part. 
When  secured,  let  go,  and  take  off  the  whips. 

Reeving  jeers. — The  standing  part  is  clenched  round  the  strap 
of  the  upper  block,  rove  through  the  one  on  the  yard,  up  through 
another  sheave  in  upper  block,  and  so  on,  until  all  rove  full. 
The  hauling  part  is  rove  through  a  leading  sheave,  in  fore  or 
main  bitts,  or  through  leading  blocks.  When  heaving  up,  the\ 
are  either  brought  to  the  capstan,  or  manned  by  hand. 

The  jeer  blocks  are  now  generally  fitted  with  hooks,  as  they 
can  be  got  up  and  down  much  quicker.  At  the  present  day,  fe\v 
ships  are  seen  to  carry  their  jeers  up  in  their  proper  places. 


154 LOWER  LIFT  BLOCKS 

Are  double ;  an  iron  plate  is  bolted  across  the  upper  side  of  the 
main  or  fore  cap  ;  it  is  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  with  the  hollow 
side  toward  the  topmast.  In  each  end  of  the  crescent,  or  horn, 
an  eye  is  turned  and  a  thimble  put  in  it.  Instead  of  the  eyes 
being  turned,  I  have  seen  two  eye-bolts  driven  through  the  cres- 
cent and  cap,  and  secured  underneath  with  a  nut ;  a  thimble  id 
also  put  in  the  eye-bolt,  and  the  blocks  strapped  in. 

The  cross-jack  lift  blocks  are  single,  one  on  each  side,  and  caii 
be  fitted  as  the  fore  or  main,  or  (a  chalk)  abaft  the  mast-head,  if 
preferred,  for  neatness. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


155.— REEVING  LOWER  LIFTS. 

Clench  one  end  round  the  yard  outside  all,  then  take  the  othei 
end  up  and  reeve  it  through  the  foremast  sheave  in  the  double 
block  in  the  fore  or  main  cap,  then  through  the  block  on  the 
)  ard,  through  the  other  sheave  in  the  double  block,  and  through 
lubber's  hole  on  deck ;  well  up  this  part,  splice  a  lizard  for  jigger 
tackle,  or  use  tails  selvageed  on  the  end.  The  upper  block  of 
the  jigger  can  be  spliced  or  turned  in  to  the  lift,  if  preferred. 

The  cross  jack  lifts  go  over  the  yard  arms  with  an  eye 
spliced  in  the  end  to  fit  them.  The  other  end  is  rove  through 
the  block  at  the  cap,  and  is  set  up  with  two  thimbles  and  a  lan- 
yard in  the  top ;  one  thimble  being  turned  into  the  end,  the  other 
strapped  to  the  eye  of  one  of  the  lower  shrouds. 


156.— MAIN  BRACES— ON  BUMKIN,  jtc. 

A  single  block  is  seized  into  a  double  strap,  with  a  round  seiz- 
ing crossed  both  ways;  the  strap  is  then  put  over  an  iron  out- 
rigger, or  bumkin  on  the  quarters,  fitted  for  the  purpose.  The 
standing  part  of  the  brace  being  parceled,  is  rove  through  anothei 
bolt  in  the  bumkin,  and  spliced  into  it  or  clenched ;  the  other 
end  rove  through  the  block  on  the  yard  arm,  from  out,  in  through 
the  block  in  the  bumkin,  and  through  a  sheave  in  the  bulwarks 
(abaft),  for  the  purpose. 

Double  blocks  are  sometimes  put  on  the  bumpkin,  instead  of 
single  ones,  and  also  two  sheaves  inserted  in  the  bulwarks  instead 
of  one,  both  ends  of  the  brace  rove,  and  led  in-board — a  great 
facility  in  working  ship. 


157.— FORE   BRACES 

Are  clove-hitched,  and  the  end  seized  aft  on  the  collar  of  the 
main  stay,  below  the  splice  ;  the  other  end  taken  forward  and 
rove  from  in,  out,  through  the  block  on  the  yard,  through  a  single 
block  strapped  into  a  bolt  in  the  cheek  of  the  main-mast,  with  a 
thimble  in  it,  close  up  to  the  trestle-trees ;  then  rove  from  forward 
aft,  through  a  sheave  in  the  main  fife-rail. 

The  brace  is  often  middled,  and  clove-hitched  in  the  bight  on 
the  main  stay,  and  both  ends  taken  forward  and  rove  as  before. 
Some  have  a  hole  bored  in  the  bibs,  or  cheeks  of  the  mast,  instead 
of  clove-hitching  it  around  the  main  stay. 


80 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


158.— CROSSING  THE  LOWER  YARDS. 

The  jeers  being  rove,  reeve  the  pendants  and  falls,  hitch  the 
pendants  around  the  quarters  of  the  yard,  splice  in  the  lanyard 
of  the  D  thimble,  and  take  the  yard  tackles  forward  to  keep  the 
yard  clear  of  the  mast.  The  lifts  and  braces  being  rove,  man 
the  lifts  and  jeer  falls,  "sway  away,"  and  when  the  yard  comes 
abreast  of  the  futtock  staves,  pass  the  lashing  of  the  D  thimble, 
parcel  it  well,  over  all,  frap  all  parts  together,  and  cover  all 
with  canvass;  reeve  the  truss  pendants,  turn  in  the  blocks, 
reeve  the  falls,  haul  taut  the  tresses,  and  square  the  yard  by  the 
Hfts  and  braces. 


159.— TO  GET  ON  BOARD  THE  TOPSAIL  YARDS. 

A  large  single  block  is  lashed  to  the  topmast-head,  through 
which  a  hawser  is  rove ;  overhaul  it  down  forward  and  hitch  it 
to  the  slings  of  the  yard,  stop  it  along  the  yard  arm,  and  sway  it 
on  board.  Cast  off  the  hawser,  middle  the  yard,  and  prepare  it 
for  rigging. 


1  60.— RIGGING  TOPSAIL  YARDS.    (FORE  AND  MAIN.) 


The  jackstays,  after  going  over  the  yard  arm,  are  rove  through 
the  eye-bolts  or  staples,  and  set  up  a-midships  with  a  lanyard  and 
thimble  spliced  in. 

Foot  ropes  round  the  yard  abaft,  on  their  opposite  quarters,  as 
follows : — splice  the  lanyard  into  the  eye  in  the  end ;  take  it  over 
the  yard,  and  round  on  the  fore  side,  underneath  through  the 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  fctf 

eye;  again  back  round  the  yard  on  the  fore  side,  through  the 
eye,  and  back  the  same  way,  until  sufficient  turns  are  taken  to 
secure  it.  Then  take  a  half-hitch  from  the  lower  edge  of  the 
eye,  round  all  parts  of  the  lashing ;  pass  it  round  before ;  reeve 
through  the  eye  on  the  upper  side,  take  two  half-hitches  round 
all,  and  secure  the  end. 

Tye  blocks  are  now  generally  iron-strapped,  and  bolted  into 
straps  round  the  yard  for  the  purpose.  If  fitted  with  rope,  they 
must  have  double  straps,  and  secured  round  the  yard,  on  the 
upper  foremost  quarter,  with  a  rose-lashing.  If  they  are  single 
blocks,  two  on  each  yard. 

Quarter  blocks  are  double  blocks,  iron  strapped,  and  secured 
in  the  same  way  as  tye  blocks.  Much  time  is  saved  by  having 
them  fitted  in  this  manner,  as  in  shifting  yards,  the  topgallant 
sheets,  and  topsail  clewlines  need  not  be  unrove,  which  must  be 
the  case  if  rope-strapped.  If  rope-strapped  they  are  seized  into  a 
single  strap,  and  lashed  on  top  of  the  yard  with  a  rose-lashing. 

Parrel. — Take  two  pieces  of  rope,  one  longer  than  the  other ; 
the  long  one  of  sufficient  length  to  go  round  the  mast  and  yard 
on  each  side ;  the  short  leg  to  go  round  the  mast,  and  lash  to  the 
long  leg  on  each  side.  An  eye  is  spliced  in  each  end,  are  worm- 
ed, parceled,  and  served ;  both  marled  together  and  covered  with 
leather.  A  round  seizing  is  passed  around  both,  close  to  the  eye 
of  the  short  leg,  on  each  side.  The  long  leg  is  taken  round  the 
yard,  brought  round  on  the  fore  side,  and  secured  to  the  short 
leg  with  a  lashing  of  small  rope,  passed  through  both  eyes.  The 
other  eyes  are  lashed  together  when  the  yard  is  across. 

Brace  blocks  are  strapped  in  the  same  way  as  fore  or  main 
yard. 

Flemish  horse  is  a  short  piece  of  rope  spliced  round  a  thimble, 
which  is  on  the  neck  of  the  pacific-iron,*  it  has  an  eye  spliced 
in  the  other  end,  and  when  the  yard  is  rigged,  is  secured  the 
same  as  a  foot  rope,  just  inside  the  brace  block,  two  or  three 
feet,  according  to  the  length  of  the  yard.  They  should  be  long 
enough  to  allow  a  man  to  stand  on  them  to  pass  an  earing,  <fec. 
They  are  sometimes  fitted  to  lower  and  top-gallant  yards,  for  the 
convenience  of  reefing,  &c. 

Jewel-blocks  are  single  blocks,  seized  into  a  strap  put  over  a 
thimble  on  the  neck  of  the  pacific-iron,  outside  the  thimble  for 
the  Flemish  horse.  Some  fit  them  to  go  over  the  yard  arm. 
Others  fit  them  with  sister  hooks,  to  hook  to  the  pacific  iron. 

Straps. — Half  way  out,  on  each  yard  arm,  a  strap  is  fitted  long 
enough  to  allow  a  thimble  to  be  secured  in  it,  with  a  seizing  pas- 
sed between  the  yard  and  thimble, — this  is  called  a  rolling  tackle 


*  Is  what  the  boom-iron  ships  on. 


yg  1HE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

strap.  Also,  straps  are  put  on  the  yard,  with  thimbles  seized  in 
the  same  way,  inside  the  lift,  to  hook  a  burton  to  ;  but  a  selvagee 
strap  is  generally  used  for  that  purpose. 


161.— THE   MIZEN  TOPSAIL  YARD 

Is  rigged  nearly  the  same  as  the  others,  but  the  brace  blocka 
are  on  the  fore-side,  and  the  Flemish  horses  generally  spliced 
into  bolts  in  the  ends  of  the  yards,  with  round  thimbles  in  them. 
There  is  seldom  more  than  one  tye-block  on  this  yard,  and  no 
jewel  blocks. 


162.— PLACING   THE    RIGGING  ON    TOPSAIL  YARDS. 

Tar  the  yard  arms ;  first  the  jackstay,  foot  ropes,  brace,  and 
lift  block ;  if  no  lift  block,  the  lift ;  Flemish  horses,  and  jewel- 
blocks.  The  quarter  blocks  should  be  lashed  so  as  to  hang  clear 
of  the  cap,  when  the  yard  is  down.  See  that  the  boom  irons  go 
on,  and  a  small  cleat,  or  saddle,  inside  of  the  sheave  hole,  about 
two  feet  on  each  yard-arm,  to  keep  the  topgallant  sheets  clear  of 
the  yard.  Also  reefing  cleats  on  yard-arms,  outside  the  lift. 


163 CROSSING  THE  TOPSAIL  YARDS. 

Reeve  a  hawser  through  one  of  the  hanging  blocks  ;  send  ons 
end  down  before  all,  the  other  through  lubber's  hole,  and  through 
a  leading  block  on  deck.  Take  a  round  turn,  and  timber-hitch 
the  hawser  round  the  slings  of  the  yard ;  step  it  along  the  lar- 
board yard-arm,  if  got  up  on  the  starboard  side ;  if  got  up  on  the 
larboard  side,  the  contrary.  Overhaul  well  down  to  main  or  fore 
rigging,  the  starboard  lifts  and  braces ;  the  larboard  into  the  top, 
and  stop  them  ready  for  rigging.  Man  the  hawser,  and  "  sway 
away."  When  the  upper  yard  arm  is  clear  of  the  top,  put  over 
the  brace  and  lift,  (or  block,)  and  "sway  higher ;"  iig  the  lower 
yard  arm,  take  in  the  slack  of  the  lifts  and  braces,  then  cast  off 
the  stops  on  the  upper  yard-arm,  and  when  the  yard  is  well  up, 
take  two  or  three  turns  with  the  parrel-lashing ;  bouse  well  up 
on  the  starboard  or  lower  lifts,  overhaul  tfie  larboard,  and  th^ 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  89 

slops  being  cast  off,  the  yard  will  fall  across.  Secure  the  parrel; 
square  the  yard  by  braces  and  lifts,  and  cast  off  and  unreeve  the 
hawser. 

Note. — In  large  ships  the  lifts  and  brace  blocks  are  generally 
placed  on  the  yard  arms  before  the  yard  is  sent  aloft. .  The 
braces  are  rove  when  the  yard  goes  up.  I  would  also  recom- 
mend double  yard  ropes  in  heavy  ships  in  crossing  topsail  yards  ; 
also  to  use  the  burtons. 


164. -FITTING   FLY-BLOCKS   FOR  TOPSAIL  HAL- 
LIARDS. 

The  blocks  spliced  into  the  tyes  are  so  called.  They  are  iarge 
flat  blocks ;  some  double,  sometimes  single,  and  often  one  double 
and  one  single  to  each.  The  tyes  are  sometimes  spliced  taut 
round  them ;  but  this  way  is  bad ;  as  the  rope  stretches,  the 
blocks  cant,  and  are  split.  Also  a  long-eye  is  sometimes  made 
in  the  end  of  the  tye,  and  the  fly  block  kept  in  its  place  by  a 
round  seizing  passed  close  above  the  block.  The  block  in  gene- 
ral use  is  seized  into  a  strap,  leaving  sufficient  space  above  to 
splice  the  tye  in  ;  or  a  thimble  spliced  into  the  end  of  the  tye, 
and  the  fly  block  strapped  with  a  pair  of  sister  hooks,  to  hook  to 
the  tyes.  Either  of  the  latter  ways  are  preferable  to  the  former. 

"When  the  yard  is  on  the  cap,  these  blocks  should  be  square 
with  the  top  rails.  Before  turning  in  and  setting  up  for  a  full 
due,  an  iron  traveler  is  put  on  the  topmast  backstay,  which  is 
seized  to  the  fly-block, — it  prevents  the  block  from  striking  or 
injuring  the  top  when  lowering  ;  it  also  keeps  the  turns  out  of 
the  halliards.  There  is  sometimes  a  traveling  jackstay  fitted 
for  this  purpose. 

Reeving'  Topsail  Halliards. — "When  rove  double,  a  single 
block  is  strapped  into,  or  hooked,  to  a  swivel  bolt  in  the  after 
part  of  the  chains ;  one  end  of  the  halliards  is  spliced  into  the 
upper  part  of  the  strap  of  this  block,  or  bent  iiito  a  becket  put 
there  for  the  purpose,  and  the  end  seized.  The  other  end  is  then 
rove  through  one  of  the  sheaves  in  the  double  block  in  the  tye, 
then  through  the  sheave  in  the  single  block  in  the  chains, 
through  the  other  sheave  in  the  double  block,  and  through  3 
foading  block  on  deck. 

The  Mizen  Topsail  Halliards  have  only  one  tye.  The 
standing  part  is  clenched  or  half-hitched  to  the  strap,  with  the 
ihirable,  at  the  mizen-topmast  head,  and  a  single  block  spliced 


90  THE 

or  secured  in  the  end.  Another  single  block  is  strapped  into  a 
swivel  bolt  in  the  mizen  chains,  and  the  halliards  rove  as  with 
two  single  blocks;  the  fall  rove  through  a  leading  block  or  cheek. 
(Some  ships  have  a  treble  fly  block). 


165.— RIGGING  TOPGALLANT  YARDS. 

They  are  got  on  board  like  the  topsail  yards.  Leather  the 
slings,  seize -on  the  D  thimble,  parrel,  and  quarter  blocks,  rolling 
tackle  straps, — tar  the  yard  arms — foot  ropes  the  same  as  topsail 
yards — stirrups  one  to  each  foot  rope — iron  jackstays  secured 
to  the  yard  with  staples,  fitted  the  same  way  as  rope.  (Iron  sling- 
bands  arc  allowed  by  the  new  regulation.} 

The  lifts  are  single ;  an  eye  is  spliced  to  fit  the  yard-arm : 
the  other  end  is  rove  through  the  thimble,  or  bull's-eye,  or  a 
half  sister- block  in  the  topgallant-rigging ;  a  thimble  turned  into 
the  end,  and  a  lanyard  spliced  into  it,  and  set  up  to  another 
thimble  strapped  round  a  futtock  plate  inside  the  dead-eye  in 
the  top,  or  set  up  on  the  end. 

Braces. — A  single  block  is  seized  into 
a  single  strap,  having  an  eye  to  fit  the 
yard-arm.  If  a  single  brace,  an  eye  is 
spliced  to  fit  the  yard-arm,  and  the  lift  and 
brace  marled  together. 

The  quarter-blocks  are  double ;  are  seiz- 
ed into  a  single  strap,  an  eye  being  spliced  in  each  end ; — they 
lash  together  on  the  top  of  the  yard — the  foremost  sheave  foi 
top-gallant  clewline,  after  one  for  royal  sheet. 

Parrel. — A  long  and  short  leg.  Take  a  piece  of  rope,  cut  it 
the  required  length,  and  splice  the  ends  together  round  the  yard. 
In  one  bight  seize  a  thimble,  with  a  round  seizing ;  the  other 
one  round  the  yard ;  pass  a  round  seizing  close  to  the  yard,  round 
the  parrel  on  the  after  side ;  splice  a  lanyard  into  the  thimble, 
and  fit  a  short  strap  the  same  way  on  the  other  quarter.  These 
straps  are  sometimes  served,  and  often  covered  with  leather, — 
they  go  inside  the  cleats.  Grommets  can  be  worked  if  preferred, 
and  dispense  with  the  thimbles,  as  they  are  likely  to  injure  the 
mast.  Jaws  are  also  recommended.  The  patent  iron  parrels  are 
now  in  use  in  the  navy,  but  are  found  not  to  answer  for  ships  of 
war. 

Tripping  beckets  are  fitted  one  on  each  yard-arm ;  work  grum- 
met straps  on  quarter  of  yard,  seize  a  thimble  in  with  a  round 
seizing  passed  between  the  yard  and  thimble.  A  grommet  is 
put  on  the  yard  rope,  to  fit  the  yard-arm,  when  getting  ready  foT 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  91 

crossing.  Also,  a  lizard ;  a  small  piece  of  rope  with  a  thimble 
spliced  in  one  end,  the  other  whipped.  It  goes  on  the  yard  rope 
before  being  bent  to  the  yard. 

When  ready  for  going  aloft,  the  yard  rope  is  bent  on,  and  the 
yard  stopped  to  the  lower  rigging ;  the  main  on  the  starboard 
side,  fore  and  mizen  on  the  larboard  side. 

Note. — Royal  ya  ras,  opposite  sides,  to  the  topgallant  yards 


166.— TOPGALLANT  BRACES. 

Fore. — If  double,  the  standing  part  is  clove-hitched  round  the 
first  and  second  shrouds  of  the  main  topmast  rigging,  or  crotch 
of  the  stay,  through  the  block  for  the  brace,  through  another 
single  tail  block,  secured  to  the  first  and  second  shrouds  (the 
same  as,  and  under  the  standing  part),  through  lubber's  hole, 
and  through  a  fair  leading  sheave  on  deck. 

They  are  often  led  forward  from  the  blocks  in  the  topmast  rig- 
ging, through  a  leading  block  strapped  round  the  eyes  of  the 
fore  rigging,  or  after  part  of  the  top,  and  through  fair  leading 
sheaves  on  the  forecastle.  In  ships  of  war,  I  prefer  them  abaft. 
The  block  in  the  topmast  rigging  is  fitted  as  follows : — 

A  single  piece  of  rope  is  spliced  round  a  single  block,  having  a 
tail  about  three  or  four  feet  long ;  clove-hitch  this  tail  round  the 
first  shroud,  then  round  the  second,  and  seize  the  end.  I  have 
seen  a  round  turn  taken  round  the  first,  and  a  clove-hitch  round 
the  second ;  either  plan  will  do,  but  if  neatness  is  studied,  clove- 
hitch  round  the  second  and  third ;  this  will  bring  the  block  under 
the  rigging,  and  out  of  sight.  If  rove  single,  the  block  is  secured 
the  same  way — an  eye  made  in  the  end  of  the  brace  to  fit  the 
yard-arm ;  the  other  end  rove  through  the  block  on  deck,  as 
before. 

A  whip  is  sometimes  put  on  the  brace,  the  block  spliced  in 
^lose  up  to  the  cat-harpens,  which  answers  very  well.  One  end 
of  the  whip  is  spliced  into  a  bolt  on  deck,  the  other  led  through  a 
fair  leading  sheave  or  block. 

Main. — The  main  topgallant  braces  are  fitted  the  same  as  the 
fore,  with  the  exception  of  leading.  The  standing  part  is  se- 
cured in  the  same  manner  to  the  foremost,  or  second  and  third 
shrouds  of  mizen-topmast  rigging ;  the  hauling  part  before  all, 
through  lubber's  hole,  and  through  a  sheave  in  the  rack,  or  a 
leading  block,  to  the  side  abreast  of  the  mizen-mast 

Mizen. — The  mizen  topgallant  braces  are  single.     An  eye  is 
spliced   in  one  end  to  fit  the  yard-arm.     The  other  end  is  rove 
8 


92  THE   KEDGE-AiNTCHOR, 

through  a  single  block ;  seized  into  a  single  strap,  and  secured 
to  an  eye-bolt  on  each  side  of  the  main  cap,  and  through  lubber'? 
hole  on  deck.  I  have  seen  these  braces  led  through  blocks  in 
main  topmast  rigging,  in  harbor,  where  appearance  has  been 
much  studied. 


167.— CROSSING  TOPGALLANT  YARDS. 

One  man  stands  on  the  topmast  cap ;  two  on  the  crosstrees 
(one  on  each  side),  one  of  the  latter  shoves  off  the  grommet,  and 
rigs  the  upper  yard-arm ;  the  man  on  the  opposite  side  bears 
off, — one  man  stands  in  the  topmast  rigging  to  put  on  the  lower 
lift  and  brace ;  another  stands  on  the  topsail  yard,  ready  to  bear 
off ;  the  lower  lift  should  be  well  manned  in  the  top. 

When  the  order  "  sway  out  of  the  chains,"  is  given,  the  man 
standing  on  the  fore  part  of  the  top  bears  the  yard  rope  off,  to 
clear  the  yard-arm  of  the  top — when  clear,  "  sway  away."  When 
the  yard-arm  is  clear  of  the  crosstrees,  the  grommet  is  shoved  off, 
the  upper  lift  and  brace  is  put  on,  and  the  order  "  sway  higher  " 
is  given ;  then  the  lower  lift  and  brace  is  put  on,  and  the  lift 
hauled  well  taut.  The  man  on  the  cap  has  the  parrel -lash  ing 
in  his  hand,  ready  for  passing;  he  reeves  a  turn,  and  on  the 
order,  "  sway  cross,"  he  hauls  on  the  lizard.  The  lower  lift  is 
boused  on,  and  the  yard  falls  across;  the  braces  are  hauled  taut, 
and  the  yard  squared. 

When  a  ship  is  going  to  sea,  the  lifts  and  braces  are  stopt  to 
the  jackstay,  and  the  topgallant  yard  ropes  toggled  for  halliards, 
or  half-hitched  over  the  upper  block.  To  toggle  the  halliards : 
Strap  two  single  blocks,  with  single  straps,  leaving  an  eye  below 
the  seizing,  in  one,  to  take  a  small  lashing ;  in  the  other  to  take 
the  bight  of  the  topgallant  yard  rope.  Lash  the  block  with  the 
small  eye,  to  the  eye  of  a  lower  shroud,  and  reeve  the  yard  rope 
through  it.  To  the  strap  of  the  other  block  secure  the  toggle 
with  a  nettle  lanyard. 

Note. — Separate  halliards  may  be  fitted  to  dog  on  to  the  yard 
rope,  with  a  double  -  tailed  lizard,  and  hook  the  lower  block  to 
3ii  eye-bolt  in  the  top,  which  answers  a  better  purpose. 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  93 

168.— ROYAL  YARDS 

Are  fitted  the  same  as  topgallant  yards,  and  rigged  the  same, 
ivith  the  exception  of  the  quarter  blocks,  which  are  single.  In 
small  vessels  they  have  no  jackstay,  the  sail  being  bent  to  the 
yard.  Topgallant  sails  are  often  bent  the  same  way,  but  jack- 
stays  keep  the  sail  much  better  up  on  the  yard.  Some  prefer  a 
wooden  batten  nailed  to  the  yard.  Iron  jackstays  are  now  used 
for  all  vessels  in  the  navy.  (New  Regulation.) 

Fore  Royal  Braces. — Two  blocks  fitted  in  one  strap,  as  span 
blocks,  are  lashed  round  the  main  topgallant  mast-head  ;  the 
blocks  standing  on  the  foremost  quarter,  on  each  side.  Between 
the  after  part  of  the  fore  topmast  trestle-trees,  a  piece  of  wood 
with  two  sheaves,  the  same  size,  and  a  large  one  in  the  centre,  is 
secured.*  The  braces  are  single,  an  eye  is  spliced  in  one  end  to 
fit  the  royal  yard-arm ;  the  other  end  rove  through  the  span- 
blocks,  back  again  through  the  sheaves  in  the  fore  topmast 
trestle-trees,  and  into  the  fore  top. 

The  blocks  are  often  strapped  separately,  and  seized  into  the 
strap  with  a  round  seizing,  leaving  room  for  a  seizing  to  be 
passed  through  the  strap,  and  round  the  eye  of  the  topgallant 
stay,  before  going  on  the  funnel,  one  on  each  side.  This  will 
not  look  so  neat  as  span  blocks,  and  are  not  so  easily  taken  off 
and  put  on.  The  blocks  for  royal  braces  are  often  seized  on  the 
topgallant  stay,  with  the  idea  of  clearing  the  foot  of  the  main 
royal. 

Main  royal  braces  are  fitted  in  the  same  manner  as  the  fore, 
and  led  through  single  blocks  on  mizen-topgallant  mast-head, 
and  back  into  the  main  top ;  or  through  lubber's  hole  in  the 
mizen-top  on  deck.  The  latter  is  decidedly  the  best  plan,  as 
they  can  be  much  better  attended  to  when  under  the  eye  of  the 
officer  of  the  watch,  than  when  left  to  the  topmen. 

Mizen  royal  braces  are  fitted  the  same  as  the  others,  and  lead 
through  sheaves  in  the  after  ends  of  the  main  topmast  crosstrees. 
and  into  the  top. 

Crossing  royal  yards. — They  are  crossed  the  same  as  the  top- 
gallant yards.  When  they  are  rigged  aloft,  the  topgallant  masts 
should  be  fitted  with  jacks  for  the  men  to  stand  on,  not  only  to 
expedite  the  crossing,  but  also  for  the  safety  of  the  men.  They 
are  made  of  iron,  and  put  on  the  topgallant  mast  immediately 
over  the  hounds  ;  the  jack  is  made  round  to  fit  the  mast,  and  is 


*  This  piece  ol  wood  is  called  a  fair-leading  chock. 


34  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

put  on  before  the  funnel,  if  used.  The  horns  on  each  side  are 
of  a  proportioned  length  to  the  mast;  an  eye  is  turned  in  the 
end  of  each  horn,  for  the  royal  rigging  to  reeve  through,  and  set 
up  as  before.  When  no  royal  rigging,  the  breast  backstay 
should  be  rove  through  the  eye,  and  set  up  in  the  top  with  a 
gun  tackle  purchase,  fitted  between  the  two  after  dead-eyes. 

Royal  rigging  is  quite  unnecessary,  in  my  opinion,  except  in 
large  vessels — the  breast  and  standing  backstay  is  sufficient. 

Royal  sheets  are  either  toggled  or  bent  to  the  clews,  rove 
through  sheaves,  in  the  yard-arms,  and  through  the  after-sheave 
in  quarter  block,  on  the  topgallant  yard ;  through  leading  thimbles 
on  the  topmast  rigging,  and  into  the  top,  or  on  deck. 


169.— ROYAL  AND  TOPGALLANT  GEAR. 

When  the  topgallant  and  royal  yards  are  sent  on  deck,  the 
topgallant  sheets  are  stopped  to  the  topmast-head,  and  hauled 
taut  on  deck.  I  have  seen  them  in  harbor  stopt  to  the  tye-blocks 
close  down  to  the  yard.  The  former  is  decidedly  the  best  plan, 
as  they  are  always  ready  for  bending ;  the  clewlines  and  bow- 
lines, are  also  stopped  at  the  mast-head. 

The  lifts  and  braces  are  taken  outside  the  topgallant  rigging, 
and  the  eyes  stopt  to  the  rigging  at  the  topmast-head,  before 
all ; — hauled  taut  on  deck,  and  in  the  top. 

Royal  gear  is  stopt  at  the  topgallant  mast-head,  and  hauled 
taut  on  deck,  or  in  the  top. 


170.— SPANKER-BOOM,  TRYSAIL-MAST,  AND  GAFF. 

The  spanker-boom,  trysail-mast,  and  gaff,  may  be  got  on  board 
by  the  yard  and  stay-tackle.  Put  the  hoops  on  the  trysail-mast, 
and  stop  them ;  sway  away  by  a  pendant  tackle,  and  point  the 
mast  through  the  after  chock  of  the  trestle-trees ;  lash  its  head 
to  the  mizen  mast-head;  leather  the  boom  in  the  wake  of  the 
crutch;  seize  on  sheet-blocks,  and  reeve  the  sheets;  tar  the 
boom,  put  over  the  foot-ropes,  which  are  set  up,  just  outside  the 
taffrail ;  boom-guys,  which  go  with  a  gun-tackle  purchase  to 
the  quarters.  Hook  the  topping  lift  to  an  iron  span  around 
the  boom  ;  ship  and  key  the  boom ;  seize  on  a  cleat  to  belay  the 


OR  YOUJNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  95 

outhaulers  to ;  then  leather  the  jaws  of  the  gaff,  lit  throat,  and 
peak-halliard  blocks,  brail  blocks,*  vangs  and  blocks, — reeve 
throat  and  peak-halliards,  hoist  up  the  g^ff,  and  haul  taut  the 
vangs. 

The  spencer  gaff  may  be  rigged  nearly  in  the  same  manner. 

Chocks  should  be  fitted  to  go  in  between  the  lower  and  trysail 
mast-heads.  Copper  the  mast,  in  the  way  of  the  jaws. 


171.— SPANKER-BOOM  SHEET  AND  GUYS  IN  ONE. 

Into  a  bolt,  with  a  thimble  in  each  quarter,  strap  a  double 
clock  with  a  single  strap ;  then  seize  into  two  grommet-straps, 
worked  round  the  boom,  (wormed  and  covered,)  two  single  blocks, 
one  on  each  side,  just  outside  the  taffrail,  or  crutch.  Secure  these 
blocks  in  their  straps,  with  a  round  seizing  passed  between  the 
block  and  the  boom.  The  rope  for  the  guys  is  middled  and  cut ; 
then  an  eye,  or  cut  splice  made  to  fit  the  boom  end.  Take  the 
larboard  guy,  and  reeve  it  through  one  of  the  sheaves  in  the 
double  block  on  the  quarter,  through  the  single  block  on  the 
boom,  through  the  other  sheave  in  the  double  block,  through  a 
fair  leader  in  the  side,  and  pull  it  up  on  deck.  The  starboard 
one  is  rove  in  the  same  manner,  through  the  block  on  the  star 
board  quarter. 


172.— SPANKER-BOOM  TOPPING-LIFTS. 

A  cheek  with  a  sheave  in  it,  is  bolted  on  each  side  of  the 
mizen  trestle-trees,  under  the  rigging ;  instead  of  this  cheek,  a 
single  block  is  often  strapped  into  a  bolt,  with  a  thimble  in  it. 
On  the  boom  outside  the  taffrail,  is  an  iron  hoop,  with  an  eye- 
bolt  on  each  side,  and  thimbles  in  them.  Parcel  the  thimbles  in 
the  outside  bolts,  and  into  them  splice  the  topping  lifts ;  the 
other  end  reeve  down  through  the  cheeks  on  the  trestle-trees,  or 
block,  and  splice  a  parceled  thimble  in  the  end,  for  the  purpose 
of  hooking  the  jigger-tackle. 


*  Cheek-blocks  are  allowed,  fitted  to  all  gaTs,  by  new  regulation.    (See  B("ck 
Table.} 


%  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


173.— A  BRIG  OR  SCHOONER'S  MAIN-BOOM. 

There  being  so  little  boom  projecting  over  the  stern,  guys  arc 
unnecessary.  On  each  quarter,  strap  a  double  block,  and  one 
on  each  side  of  the  boom,  in  separate  straps  :  through  these  reeve 
the  sheet, — the  standing-part  from  the  strap  of  the  quarter-block, 
and  hauling  part  through  one  of  the  sheaves  of  the  quarter-block. 
In  working  with  the  watch  they  are  found  very  useful ;  one  man 
can  ease  over,  while  two  more  can  take  in  the  slack.  A  boom- 
tackle  is  fitted  with  a  pendant,  to  hook  forward  to  an  eye-bolt 
outside,  and  used  when  necessary.  (Also  crotch-ropes). 


174.— REEVING  PEAK-HALLIARDS. 

The  standing-part  is  spliced  into  an  eye-bolt  underneath,  or 
bottom  of  the  block ;  then  the  other  end  rove  through  the  inside 
block  on  the  gaff,  from  forward,  aft;  then  through  a  sheave  in 
the  double  block,  through  the  outer  block  on  the  gaff,  from  for- 
ward, aft,  and  down  through  the  sheave  in  the  double  block,  and 
through  a  leading  sheave  in  the  bitts,  or  block  on  deck. 

You  may  dispense  with  one  block,  and  splice  the  standing- 
part  round  the  gaff. 


175.— REEVING  THROAT-HALLIARDS. 

The  standing-part  is  spliced  into  the  single  block,  which  is 
hooked  to  the  gaff,  up  through  the  double  block  under  the  top, 
down  through  the  single  block,  up  again  through  the  other 
sheave  in  double  block,  and  through  a  leader,  opposite  to  the 
neak-halliards. 


176.— TO  FIT  SINGLE  VANGS. 

Middle  the  required  length  of  rope,  and  seize  a  cuckold's-neck 
in  the  bight  to  fit  the  gaff-end,  and  lead  one  end  on  each  side. 
The  cuckold's-neck  should  be  neatly  covered  with  canvass,  and 
two  snug  seizings  put  on  each  quarter  of  the  neck,  showing  two 
parts  of  the  rope  on  the  top  of  the  gaff,  and  rue  urderneath. 
Paint  the  eye  the  same  color  as  the  gaff. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  97 


1  7  7.— DOUBLE  VANGS. 

Seize  into  each  bight  of  a  long  grommet  strap,  a  single  block, 
and  secure  the  strap  round  the  end  of  the  gaff,  outside  the  rig- 
ging cleats,  with  a  lashing  passed  round  the  strap  underneath 
the  gaff,  and  over  each  block.  Splice  the  standing  part  of  the 
fall  into  a  bolt ;  reeve  the  other  end  through  the  block  on  the 
gaff,  and  through  a  single  block  strapped  into  a  bolt,  also  in  the 
bulwarks.  Blocks  fitted  in  this  way  are  called  span-blocks. 
This  is  decidedly  the  best  plan,  as  the  purchase  can  be  of  use 
until  hauled  close  down  on  deck.  Pendants  are  now  seldom  used. 


178.— FITTING    GAFFS  WITH    CHEEKS,  OR    BRAI1  - 
BLOCKS. 

Close  to  the  jaws,  outside  the  single  blocks  for  the  throat- 
brails,  secure  two  double  blocks,  strapped  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  outer  blocks  used  for  the  peak-brails.  The  peak-brails,  after 
being  rove  through  the  outer  blocks,  are  led  through  the  double 
ones  in  the  jaws,  and  on  deck  through  leading  blocks. 

Gaffs  are  also  fitted  with  cheeks,  instead  of  blocks;  and 
sheaves  cut  in  the  jaws  for  the  throat-brails,  and  fair  leaders ; 
which  is  the  approved  plan  at  present,  and  is  very  neat.  Some 
ships  in  the  service  have  their  gaffs  fitted  to  hook  to  an  iron 
band,  wTith  a  hook  in  the  end  of  the  gaff,  instead  of  jaws.  Others 
travel  up  and  down  an  iron  groove  or  railway,  fitted  to  the  lower 
mast  (using  no  trysail-mast).  Others  again  use  a  wooden  bat- 
ten nailed  to  the  mast;  some  an  iron  jackstay,  and  some  a  rope 
one.  The  try-sail  masts  are  preferable,  in  a  gale  of  wind 


179.— GETTING  UP  A  GAFF. 

Pass  the  jaw  rope ;  man  the  throat  and  peak-halliards,  the 
former  best,  and  sway  the  gaff  up;  when  high  enough,  rack  the 
halliards  with  spun-yarn  to  their  own  parts  aloft,  and  the  hal- 
liards can  be  hauled  up,  and  coiled  in  the  top  out  of  the  way. 
Steady  the  gaff  amidships,  by  the  vangs. 

Note. — All  gaffs  should  be  peaked,  or  elevated  to  an  anstfe 
parallel  with  the  mizen-topmast  stay. 


98  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR  ; 


18O.— LOWER  STUDDING-SAIL  OR  SWINGING-BOOMS 

The  lower  swinging-booms  have  goose-necks  fitted  on  one 
end,  which  in  line-of-battle  ships  and  frigates,  hook  to  the  fore- 
most part  of  the  fore  chains,  to  iron  straps  fitted  for  the  purpose. 
They  are  got  in  their  places  when  brought  alongside,  with  a 
burton  from  the  foremost  shroud,  and  another  on  the  after  back- 
stay. One-third  from  the  outer  end,  an  iron  band  is  fitted,  to 
which  the  rigging  is  hooked.  "When  secured  for  sea,  they  are 
got  close  into  the  side  and  lashed  to  a  bolt  for  the  purpose. 
When  in  harbor,  in  large  ships,  they  are  sometimes  hooked  to 
eye-bolts  in  the  bends,  which  bringing  them  lower  down,  cause 
the  boats,  when  moored,  to  ride  easier.  A  small  Jacob's-ladder  is 
fitted  to  the  fore  chains,  and  sets  up  to  the  boom  close  into  the 
side ;  also  one  or  two  seized  on  the  boom  some  distance  out,  for 
the  men  to  get  into  their  boats  with. 

The  fore  guy  is  hooked  to  the  boom,  the  other  end  taken  for- 
ward and  rove  through  a  single  block  strapped  in  a  bolt  in  the 
bowsprit  cap,  and  led  in  on  the  forecastle.  It  is  sometimes  rove 
through  a  block  on  the  spritsail-yard,  and  is  of  great  use  in  get- 
ting the  boom  from  the  side ;  if  no  spritsail-yard,  blocks  can  be 
fitted  round  the  outriggers,  or  whiskers. 

The  after  guy  is  hooked  to  the  boom,  and  the  other  end  led  in 
through  a  sheave  in  the  side ;  in  large  ships,  on  the  main  deck, 
close  before  the  gangway  port ;  in  flush-deck  vessels  through  the 
bulwarks.  In  large  vessels  they  are  rove  double. 

The  topping  lift  is  hooked  to  the  boom  the  same  as  the  guys. 

The  topping  lift  block. — Take  a  single  block,  large  enough 
for  the  rope  to  be  rove  in ;  seize  it  into  a  single  strap,  wormed 
and  served,  leaving  a  small  eye  beyond  the  seizing,  to  take  sev- 
eral parts  of  small  rope.  Seize  this  block  on  to  the  second 
shroud  (if  only  one  swifter  forward),  half-way  between  the  fut- 
tock-stave,  and  seizing  of  the  eye,  passing  sufficient  turns  to 
secure  it  well.  When  seized  in  this  way  there  will  be  more 
space  between  the  shrouds,  than  if  seized  closer  up,  which  will 
allow  the  topping  lift  to  work  clearer,  and  cause  no  chafing.  I 
have  seen  this  block  seized  to  the  eye  of  a  shroud  well  up,  but 
prefer  the  former. 

The  lizard. — On  the  topping  lift  put  a  large-sized  thimble ; 
round  this  thimble  splice  a  piece  of  rope  about  five  fathoms  long ; 
for  a  large  ship  a  piece  of  three-inch  rope  would  be  large  enough. 
Reeve  the  topping  lift  between  the  first  and  second  futtock 
shrouds,  through  the  block,  and  send  the  end  between  the 
shrouds  on  deck. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  99 

A  luff-tackle  purchase  is  often  fitted  to  the  topping  lift,  half- 
way up  the  fore  rigging. 

Hoist  up  ship  and  key  the  boom;  put  on  single  blocks  for  for- 
ward and  after  guys,  reeve,  hook,  and  haul  taut  the  topping  lift. 

Note.— Several  ships  in  the  service  have  span  blocks  fitted  across 
their  fore  cap,  and  a  clump  block,  or  bull's-eye,  fitted  on  each  fore 
yard-arm,  abaft  the  lift  block.  The  topping  lift  is  rove  through 
the  block  on  the  cap,  then  through  the  one  on  the  yard-arm,  to 
the  boom  ;  which  does  away  with  the  lizard,  and  when  the  boom 
is  alongside,  at  sea,  the  topping  lift  can  be  unhooked  from  the 
boom,  and  triced  up  with  the  rest  of  the  studding  sail  gear, 
under  the  fore  yard.  This  method  is  much  approved  of  in  large 
ships. 


181.— LOWER   STUDDING  SAIL   OUTHAUL, 
BLOCK,  &c.,  &c.  &c. 

Seize  a  single  block  into  a  double  strap,  leaving  an  eye  to  fit 
the  boom  end,  wormed  and  served.  Then  take  a  piece  of  six- 
thread  stuff,  and  pass  several  turns  round  the  strap  and  the  bolt, 
and  hitch  it  round  all  parts. 

Topmast  studding-sail  tack-block. — Take  a  single  block  the 
required  size,  strap  it  with  a  good  piece  of  rope,  leaving  a  tail 
long  enough  to  clove-hitch  round  the  boom,  and  seize  to  the  bolt 
in  the  end.  This  block  is  often  strapped  round  the  boom,  and 
kept  in  its  place  with  a  bolt  in  the  end  of  the  boom,  or  a  hole 
bored  for  the  purpose.  Sheaves  are  sometimes  cut,  but  they  are 
bad,  as  the  least  slue  in  the  boom  takes  away  whatever  purchase 
the  sheave  would  give. 

Lower  studding-sail  halliard  block,  $-c.,  fyc. — Seize  a  single 
block  into  a  single  strap,  leaving  an  eye  to  fit  the  boom  taut.  A 
small  cleat  should  be  nailed  on  the  boom,  to  prevent  the  block 
slipping  in,  or  the  strap  secured  with  a  bolt.  When  the  halliards 
are  rove,  a  single  block  is  hooked  to  the  burton  pendant,  or  lash- 
ed. The  pendant  is  sometimes  fitted  with  a  block  spliced  in  one 
end,  and  secured  to  the  mast-head,  over  the  rigging,  with  a 
lashing  passed  through  an  eye  spliced  in  the  other,  and  round 
the  mast-head.  This  is  quite  unnecessary,  as  the  block  lashed 
or  hooked  to  the  pendant,  answers  the  same  purpose. 

Reeving  the  halliards. — Reeve  through  the  block  to  the  pen- 
dant, before  the  rigging  then  through  the  block  on  the  boom 


100  THE   KEDGE-ANCHOll; 

Send  the  hauling  part  through  lubber's  hole  on  deck,  and  through 
a  leading  block. 

The  boom  brace  is  spliced  round  the  boom  between  the  blocks, 
A  single  block  is  spliced  in  the  end,  half-way  between  the  boom ; 
when  the  yard  is  square,  reeve  a  fall.  The  standing  part,  when 
the  sail  is  set,  is  clove-hitched  round  the  foremost  shroud  of  the 
main  rigging ;  the  other  end  through  a  leading  tail  block  to  the 
same  place.  Small  ships  are  not  allowed  boom  braces. 

For  inner  halliards,  use  the  fore  clew-jigger,  hooked  to  the  for- 
ward part  of  the  top.  When  the  sail  is  not  set,  and  the  boom 
rigged  in,  the  inner  halliards  are  also  used  to  trice  the  gear  up ; 
it  is  then  stopped  with  yarns  snugly  to  the  jackstay,  and  the  ends 
of  the  gear  coiled  inside  the  futtock-shrouds,  being  previously 
stopped  together. 


182.— TOPMAST    STUDDING-SAIL    SPAN   BLOCKS, 
HALLIARDS,  &c. 

Seize  tw  ingle  blocks  into  each  bight  of  a  strap,  long  enough 
to  go  across  the  topmast  cap ;  allowing  the  blocks  to  hang  clear 
on  each  side.  Take  a  piece  of  small  rope,  and  pass  a  lashing 
round  the  strap,  over  both  blocks,  under  the  cap,  and  then  seize 
the  blocks  to  eye-bolts  in  the  cap. 

To  make  the  strap,  take  a  piece  of  rope  of  sufficient  size  and 
lenjth ;  worm  and  serve  it,  splice  both  ends  together,  and  secure 
the  blocks  in  their  places  with  round  seizings.  Through  these 
blocks  reeve  the  halliards  ;  first  through  the  span  blocks  down  , 
take  the  upper  end  and  reeve  it  down  on  the  foreside  of  the  top- 
sail yard,  through  the  block  on  the  neck  of  the  boom-iron ;  the 
other  end  is  sent  down  abaft  the  foremost  crosstrees,  before  the 
topmast  rigging,  through  lubber's  hole  on  deck,  and  through  a 
leading  block.  When  not  in  use  at  sea,  the  bending  end  is 
hitched  round  the  clew  of  the  topsail,  and  the  hauling  part 
hauled  up  in  the  top.  In  harbor  they  are  generally  unrove,  and 
die  span-blocks  taken  down. 

The  dowiihaul  is  bent  to  the  sail  and  made  up  in  it. 

Sheets  are  also  bent  to  the  sail  and  made  up. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT,    / 


183 — TOPGALLANT  STUDDING-SAIL    BOOMS,  &o. 

Tricing  lines — Are  single.  A  single  block  is  seized  on  to  a 
shroud,  close  up,  and  a  fall  rove  through  it ;  one  end  is  bent  to 
the  boom,  the  other  sent  into  the  top.  When  in  harbor,  a  thimble 
should  be  fitted  a  few  feet  above  the  topsail  yard,  on  the  foremost 
shroud,  and  the  tricing  line  rove  through  it.  As  everything  is 
generally  done  in  a  hurry,  trying  who  will  be  first,  the  booms 
are  hardly  ever  properly  secured,  if  lowered,  after  loosing  to  dry, 
and  the  men  running  out  on  the  yards  with  the  booms  swinging 
about,  frequently  occasion  accidents. 

Topmast  studding-sail  boom. — When  no  boom  brace  is  allow- 
ed and  no  lower  studding-sail  set,  carrying  the  topmast  studding- 
sail,  blowing  fresh,  a  brace  can  be  put  on,  without  rigging  the 
boom  in,  as  follows: — Take  a  belaying-pin,  or  anything  that 
will  answer  for  a  toggle,  and  secure  it  to  the  lower  studding-sail 
halliards,  with  a  clove-hitch  round  the  toggle,  hauling  the  parts 
well  taut ;  haul  the  toggle  close  to  the  block  on  the  boom,  and 
belay ;  and  it  will  answer  equally  as  well  as  a  brace.  The  in- 
ner end  of  the  halliards  should  not  be  let  go,  for  in  case  the 
lower  studding-sail  requires  to  be  set,  the  end  can  be  hauled  in, 
the  toggle  taken  out.  and  the  halliards  overhauled  for  bending. 

Note. — Should  the  boom  top  up  much,  and  require  a  martin- 
gale more  than  a  brace,  toggle  the  halliards  the  same  way,  and 
bouse  it  well  taut  through  a  leading-block,  perpendicular  to  the 
boom. 


184.— GETTING  STUDDING-SAIL  BOOMS  UP. 

All  studding-sail  booms  have  two  holes  in  the  inner  end,  for 
a  heel-lashing,  and  strap  for  the  in-and-out-jigger,  and  sometimes 
a  sheave  in  the  other  end  for  the  tack.  Take  a  piece  of  rope 
long  enough  for  the  heel-lashing ;  make  a  knot  (a  wall  and 
crowned),  in  one  end  ;  reeve  it  through  the  hole  in  the  boom  end, 
haul  through  to  the  knot,  and  whip  the  other  end ;  with  the 
latter  take  two  half-hitches,  a  little  inside  the  sheaves,  or  outer 
end,  and  seize  the  end  to  the  boom.  Take  a  tail-block  and  half- 
hitch  it  half-way  out  the  fore  or  main  topsail  yard,  according  tc 
the  boom  required  to  be  got  up.  Through  this  block,  reeve  a 
rope  as  a  whip,  (if  a  heavy  boom,  it  should  be  a  double  one,; 
bend  one  end  to  the  span,  made  with  the  heel-lashing,  so  as  to 
balance  the  boom ;  the  other  reeve  through  a  leading  block  OD 


102  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

deck.  Stop  the  hoisting  part  to  the  boom  end  by  the  sheave, 
and  sway  away.  When  high  enough,  cut  the  stops  at  the  boom- 
end,  and  the  boom  will  hang  in  the  whip,  on  a  line  with  the 
yard ;  point  it  through  the  boom-iron,  — cast  off  the  whip  and 
span,  and  secure  the  heel-lashing,  rigging  boom  out  to  square 
mark. 


185.— TOPGALLANT  STUDDING-SAIL  GEAR. 

If  blocks  in  the  topgallant  rigging,  the  halliards  are  rove 
through  them ;  one  end  is  led  into  the  top,  abaft  all,  the  other 
through  the  jewel-block  on  the  yard-arm.  Jewel  blocks  are 
single  blocks,  seized  into  single  straps,  having  an  eye  to  go  over 
the  bolt  in  the  topgallant  yard-arm.  A  small  toggle  is  secured 
to  the  strap  with  a  knittle  lanyard.  The  eye  in  the  strap  is  put 
over  the  bolt,  and  the  toggle  put  in — the  upper  end  of  the  hal- 
liards are  rove  through  this  block,  on  the  foreside  of  the  topgal- 
lant yard.  When  the  sail  is  not  bent,  the  studding-sail  halliards 
are  overhauled  down,  and  hitched  to  the  foremost  shroud  ready 
for  bending.  The  jewel-blocks  are  always  taken  off,  when  get- 
ting ready  to  send  the  yards  down,  and  an  overhaul  knot  made 
on  the  end  of  the  halliards,  to  prevent  them  from  unreeving  from 
the  blocks.  Whenever  the  order  is  given  to  "unbend  the  top- 
gallant gear,"  the  jewel-blocks  must  be  taken  off. 

Tacks. — Sheaves  are  sometimes  cut  in  the  boom  ends,  but  as 
they  hardly  ever  answer  well,  and  generally  cause  delay,  and 
likewise  require  more  men  to  get  the  tack  out,  blocks  are  de- 
cidedly preferable.  Tail-blocks  are  best,  as  they  can  be  so  easily 
taken  off  and  put  on.  Clove-hitching  round  the  boom,  and  the 
end  secured  to  the  eye-bolt,  is  preferable  to  having  a  hole  bored 
in  the  boom  for  the  tail  to  reeve  through,  as  it  only  weakens  it, 
and  is  not  necessary.  The  tack  is  rove  through  this  block,  and 
when  the  sail  is  to  be  set,  the  inner  end  is  bent  to  the  clew  of  the 
sail ;  the  outer  end  led  to  the  after  part  of  the  top,  where  it  is 
nauled  out,  and  generally  belayed  to  a  shroud  or  cleat. 

Note. —  Belaying  either  the  halliards  or  tack  to  the  rigging  ia 
bad,  as  they  are  constantly  coming  up.  Cleats  should  be  nailed 
on  the  after  part  of  the  top  for  the  tacks.  Two  small  tail-blocks, 
one  on  each  side,  secured  to  the  after  futtock-plate,  for  leading 
clocks,  are  of  great  use  in  getting  the  tacks  out. 


00    Q9 


1.  faint  and  oil  room 


2.  General  Store-row* 


3.  Bread-room. 

4.  Coal-locker. 


7.  Chain-locker. 


8.  Tier  Gratings 
6.  Shot-lock^. 


1C.  Shell-rood 


II.  Spirit- room. 


12.  Bread- roora. 


13.  Slop-room. 
U.  Marine  Store* 


15.  Magazine. 

*  Filling-room. 

16.  Light-room. 


A  Representation  of  the  internal  Arrangements  and  Stowage  of  the  HolC 
of  a  First  Class  Sloop-ol-War,  U.  S.  N. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT. 


186—  STO  WING-HOLD  AND  SPIRIT-ROOM.     (BALLAST 
AND   TANKS). 

See  that  the  limbers  are  clear  from  chips  or  dirt,  and  place  the 
limber  boards.  Clean,  sweep,  and  white-wash  the  hold;  place 
hoop-poles  athwart-ships  for  dunnage,  as  near  to  each  other  as 
possible,  so  that  each  pig  of  iron  will  rest  at  least  on  two  of  them. 
The  rust  should  be  well  beaten  off  the  ballast,  and  each  pig 
white-washed.  As  the  stowing  of  a  ship's  hold  and  ballast,  de- 
pends so  much  on  her  build,  it  is  not  possible  to  lay  down  any 
precise  rule  ;  it  is,  however,  recommended  to  preserve  a  strict 
line  of  level  in  the  position  of  the  tanks.  To  effect  this,  and  to 
produce  the  desired  uniformity  of  surface,  the  stower  must  com- 
mence the  stowage  from  the  midship  stanchions  in  the  hold,  and 
work  outwards  regularly  towards  the  direction  of  the  wings. 
The  slightest  irregularity  of  surface  in  the  tops  of  the  tanks  may 
be  the  means  of  throwing  out  the  general  stowage,  and  ultimate- 
ly causing  a  considerable  deficit  in  the  quantity  of  water  which 
the  hold  is  calculated  to  contain. 

A  short,  though  rather  a  rough  way  of  calculating  the  weight 
of  ballast  required,  is  to  allow  one  ton  of  ballast,  for  ten  of  ton- 
age,  for  each  class  of  vessels.* 

Winging  the  ballast  tends  to  make  a  vessel  roll,  and  building 
up  a-midships  to  keep  her  steady.  Without  venturing  on  details, 
it  may  be  remarked  that  the  plan  of  keeping  the  ballast  in  the 
body  of  the  ship,  and  clear  of  the  extremities,  seems  to  be  most 
generally  approved  of;  while  at  the  same  time  care  should  be 
taken  to  keep  her  on,  or  parallel  to  the  line  of  'flotation,  designa- 
ted t*y  the  builder.  The  ballast  in  the  spirit-room,  should  be  a 
continuation  of  that  in  the  hold.  Make  a  draft  of  the  ballast, 
indicating  the  exact  number  of  pigs,  the  position  they  occupy, 
and  their  exact  weight. 

Previous  to  getting  on  board  the  water  tanks,  a  plan  of  stow- 
ing them  may  be  easily  arranged  by  means  of  rough  models  of 
them  in  wood,  which  a  carpenter  can  easily  make.  In  getting 
the  tanks  from  the  store,  attention  should  be  directed  to  the  licT- 
sockets,  which  if  not  properly  lined  with  fearnought,  will  allow 
much  of  their  contents  to  escape  in  rolling  ;  as  also  to  the  obtain- 
ing the  proper  quantity  of  keys,  and  see  that  they  are  short 
enough  to  work  between  the  deck  and  tanks,  if  the  vessel  is  a 
small  one.  WThite-washing  tanks  inside,  is  found  by  experience 
to  be  highly  useful  in  keeping  the  water  pure.  The  screws  for 
letting  off  the  water  require  very  careful  treatment  ;  for  they  are 
apt,  if  once  started,  never  to  be  so  tight  again  ;  and  after  being 


*  The  weight  of  chain  cables  and  water  tanks,  are  considered  in  this  calcula- 
ion,  also  half  of  the  shot.    Also  a  consultation  with  the  builder. 


104  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

three  or  four  years  in  use,  the  nuts  decay,  rendering  the  keys 
useless.  If  the  water  cannot  be  turned  off  from  the  tanks  by  the 
proper  mode,  there  seems  to  be  no  other  way  of  getting  rid  of  it, 
in  a  case  of  necessity,  but  by  forcing  a  hole  in  the  bottom  with  a 
crowbar. 

The  tanks  should  be  sto\v  ed  during  the  time  the  ship  is  rigging. 

Note. — By  a  late  order,  the  valve  in  the  bottom  of  all  water 
tanks  is  stopped  up,  and  the  screw  taken  out.  Those  that  are 
now  made  new,  have  no  screw.  There  is  also  an  alteration  in 
the  lids  for  the  better. 


187.— STOWING  CASKS. 

Strike  down  their  beds,  place  and  whitewash  them ;  then  com- 
mence stowing  the  casks  at  the  after  bulk-head  in  the  hold,  ob- 
serving to  have  the  largest  casks  in  the  kelson  tier,  and  the 
gauges  of  the  cask  on  each  side  of  the  kelson,  to  correspond.  Be 
careful  that  the  bung-holes  are  all  up,  the  bilge  free,  and  head 
clear. 

After  completing  the  first  tier,  go  on  with  the  second,  placing 
hanging  beds  between  the  casks,  and  stowing  barked  wood  in  all 
the  breakages.  As  the  tiers  approach  the  wings,  let  the  size  of 
the  cask  diminish. 


188.— STOWAGE  OF  PROVISIONS,  NAVAL  STORES,  &c. 

Stow  the  beef  on  the  larboard  side,  and  the  pork,  starboard 
side ;  with  the  flour,  rice,  and  beans  in  the  wings  ;  chocking  all 
fore  and  aft  with  wood.  The  casks  in  the  spirit-room  are  stowed 
in  the  same  manner,  with  the  exception  that  the  stowage  is  com- 
menced forward,  instead  of  aft.  Whiskey,  molasses,  and  vinegar 
are  always  stowed  in  casks.  The  liquors  of  the  medical  depart 
ment,  and  purser's  stores,  are  generally  stowed  in  the  spirit-room. 
Dry  provisions  should  not  be  stowed  under  the  wet,  and  should 
be  placed  in  such  a  manner,  that  when  required,  they  may  be 
got  at  without  disturbing  all  the  hold. 

Make  a  draft  of  the  lower,  and  riding  tiers,  and  spirit-room, 
with  the  guages  of  all  the  casks  on  the  draft;  the  number  of 
barrels,  boxes,  &c.,with  the  kind  of  provisions  they  contain. 

The  shot  and  wads  may  also  be  got  on  board,  and  stowed  HI 
their  respective  lockers. 


CR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


1  89.— STOWING  CHAIN  CABLES. 

The  chain  cables  are  got  on  board  through  the  hawse-holes,* 
and  paid  down  the  main  hatchway,  into  their  respective  lockers. 
They  are  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  and  eighty  fathoms  in 
length,  and  are  slip-shackled,  or  lashed  to  the  kelson. 

Note. — See  table  of  allowance  of  chain  cable  for  class,  &r, 


190.— TO  GET  ON  BOAKD  AND  STOW  THE  HEMP 
CABLES. 

Hemp-cables  are  one  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms  in  length, 
tvo  are  now  allowed  to  all  vessels,  from  a  ship  of  the  line,  to  a 
third  class  sloop  of  war,  inclusive.  The  cables  are  taken  from 
the  rope-walk,  and  coiled  upon  a  car  having  a  large  hole  in  its 
bottom,  and  after  being  transported  to  the  vessel,  or  lighter  at 
the  wharf,  the  upper  end  of  the  coil  is  passed  down  through  all 
the  flakes,  and  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  car,  then 
coiled  away  again  in  the  lighter.  By  dipping  the  end  in  this 
manner,  grinds  or  kinks  are  prevented,  and  the  cable  is  got  into 
the  lighter,  with  only  one  turn  in  it. 

The  lighter  bein^  towed  off  to  the  ship,  haul  under  the  bows; 
place  mats  in  the  sides  and  sills  of  one  of  the  forward  ports ;  get 
the  cables  in  on  deck,  and  French-flake  them  fore  and  aft.  They 
are  now  with  the  same  number  of  turns  in  them,  as  when  they 
left  the  rope-walk.  See  that  the  tiers  are  clear,  and  that  the 
gratings  are  properly  placed  for  the  cable  to  lay  on.  Pass  the 
end  of  the  spare  one  below,  and  coil  away  with  the  sun,  on  the 
starboard  side  of  the  tier;  make  the  coil  as  large  as  possible, 
taking  care  not  to  have  too  many  flakes  in  a  sheave,  as  the  in- 
side strands  of  the  inner  ones  would  be  injured,  by  breaking  in. 

Pass  the  ends  of  the  starboard  one  on  the  larboard  side,  and 
the  larboard  on  the  starboard  side.  Clinch  them  around  the 
main-mast,  or  to  the  beams,  coil  them  away  with  the  sun,  letting 
the  ends  remain  out,  to  be  pointed  or  tailed  if  necessary.  Join 
the  pointed  ends  with  a  short  splice,  worming  the  tails  along  the 
cable.  The  upper  ends  are  crowned  in  the  following  manner, 
viz. :  clap  a  seizing  round  the  cable  about  two  fathoms  from  the 
end,  and  unlay  it  to  the  seizing.  With  the  three  inner  strands 
form  an  artificial  eye;  cut  off  the  three  next  ones  and  woold 

*  If  the  vessel  is  alongside  of  the  wharf,  the  chain-cables  may  be  got  in  by  a 
<knot,  tHrough  the  port,  or  over  the  rail. 


[06  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

their  ends;  with  the  three  outer  ones,  form  a  crown,  worm  the 
ends  along  the  cable,  and  clap  on  seizings  in  proportion. 

The  stream  cable  and  messenger  are  coiled  away  in  the  tier 
of  the  spare  cable.  The  hawsers,  if  possible,  should  be  stowed  in 
such  a  manner,  that  the  end  of  every  one  could  be  passed  up 
together  if  required. 


191.— CATHEAD  STOPPERS. 

When  not  fitted  with  the  slip,  or  patent  stoppers,  a  good  piece 
of  rope,  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  anchor,  has  a  stopper-knot 
in  one  end,  then  rove  through  the  cathead,  and  hauled  taut.  It 
should  be  well  wormed,  parceled,  and  served  in  the  way  of  the 
cat-heads,  and  sufficiently  far  towards  the  end,  to  take  the  ring 
of  the  anchor.  The  end  should  have  a  becket  put  in,  and  point- 
ed over.  Take  a  piece  of  small  rope,  and  splice  it  into  the  inside 
yarns  of  the  stopper,  the  same  as  a  tail,  or  knot  the  yarns  to- 
gether ;  then  marl  down,  and  point  over.  The  becket  should 
be  made  large  enough  to  take  a  good  hauling-line,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  hauling  the  end  of  the  stopper  in-board,  after  being  rove 
through  the  ring  of  the  anchor. 


192.— SHANK  PAINTER. 

A  piece  of  chain  is  secured  to  the  side;  a  large  thimble,  well 
parceled,  is  put  into  the  last  link;  round  this  thimble  splice  the 
piece  of  rope  intended  to  make  the  tail  of  the  shank-painter ;  it 
is  the  same  sized .  rope  as  the  cathead  stopper.  The  other  end 
is  pointed,  with  a  becket  in. 

Note. — The  patent  iron  slip  or  trick-stopper,  is  now  generally 
used  in  the  service,  by  those  who  can  procure  them.  They  are 
not  allowed  by  the  regulation,  but  quite  a  number  of  ships  have 
them  fitted 


193.— FISH-DAVIT  GEAR. 

The  davit  is  stept  into  a  shoe  in  the  fore-chains,  for  the  pur- 
pose.    A  double  block  is  seized  into  a  double  strap,  leaving  ar 


OR   YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  137 

sye  to  fit  the  davit-head;  both  parts  of  the  strap  are  marled 
together.  Another  double  block  is  seized  into  a  double  strap, 
having  a  large  hook*  and  thimble,  to  take  the  arm  of  the  anchor. 
Take  a  large  single  block,  seize  it  into  a  single  strap,  leaving  an 
eye  to  fit  the  davit-head ;  it  will  lay  the  opposite  way  to  the 
double  one,  and  allow  the  hauling  part  of  the  fall  to  lead  fore 
and  aft  along  the  gangway ;  or  up  aloft  through  a  leader  to  the 
fore  pendants. 

Back  rope. — To  the  back  of  the  hook,  clove-hitch  and  seize 
the  end  down,  of  a  piece  of  rope,  long  enough  to  lead  to  the  fore 
chains,  or  into  the  head,  when  the  fish-fall  is  overhauled.  This 
is  taken  forward  when  hooking  the  fish.  Cat-back  is  used  for 
the  same  purpose — i.  e.,  hooking  the  cat. 

Guys:  bolts,  rigging;  tj'c. — In  the  fore  and  after  side  of  the 
davit,  bolts  are  driven.  The  fore-guy  is  a  piece  of  stout  rope, 
long  enough  to  reach  from  the  davit,  when  stepped,  to  the  after 
side  of  the  cat-head,  leaving  room  for  lashing.  The  after-guy  is 
another  piece  of  rope,  long  enough  to  reach  the  after  part  of  the 
fore-chains,  and  both  fitted  as  follows: — splice  a  hook  and 
thimble  in  one  end,  into  the  other  splice  an  eye,  and  into  this 
eye  splice  a  lashing. 

Get  a  jigger  on  the  foremost  swifter,  and  hoist  the  davit  into 
the  step  or  shoe.  Hook  the  guys  to  the  bolts  in  the  davit-head, 
and  set  them  up  to  the  cat-head,  and  after  part  of  the  fore-chains. 
Put  over  the  double  block,  then  the  single,  and  reeve  the  fish-fall. 
Take  two  tackles,  clap  a  good  strap  round  the  foremast,  hook 
the  double  block  to  this  strap,  and  the  others  to  selvagee-straps 
round  the  davit-head.  The  strap  round  the  foremast  should  be 
in  a  direct  line  whith  the  davit-head  when  perpendicular.  These 
tackles  will  answer  for  topping-lifts,  and  will  be  found  much 
better  than  the  old-fashioned  topping-lifts  for  stowing  anchors. 

Note. — I  would  recommend  the  iron  davit,  in  preference  to  the 
wooden  one,  on  account  of  its  being  more  durable,  much  neater, 
:nore  convenient  for  stowage  and  also  requires  less  gear. 


*  Properly  called  a  fish-hook. 


LOS 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 


194.— GETTING  ON  BOARD,  AND  STOWING  ANCHORS 

The  fish-davits  being  rig- 
ged, reeve  and  overhaul  the 
cat  arid  fish-falls,  get  the  an- 
chors into  a  lighter,  and  tow 
them  under  the  bows ;  pass  up 
the  stream-cable,  and  clench  it 
to  the  ring  of  the  bower-an- 
chor; hook  the  cat,  and  run 
the  anchor  up  to  the  cat-head. 
Pass  the  stopper,  hook  the  fish, 
and  pass  the  shank-painter. 
Unbend  the  stream-cable,  and 
bend  it  to  the  waist-anchor, 
then  drop  the  lighter  aft,  and 
secure  her  under  the  berth  of 
the  anchor.  Brace  the  fore 
yard  in,  and  the  main  yard  up 
as  much  as  possible ;  top  them 
up  a  little,  hook  a  stout  tackle 
to  act  as  a  rolling-tackle,  and  bouse  the  lifts  and  trusses  well 
taut.  Pass  a  lashing  round  the  slings  of  the  yard,  to  ease  the 
trusses.  Hook  both  top-burtons  to  the  yard-arm,  and  set  well  up 
the  opposite  breast-backstays.  Pass  a  strap  round  the  topmast, 
just  above  the  lower  cap.  Hook  the  double  block  of  a  stout  pen- 
dant-tackle to  this  strap,  and  the  single  one  is  hooked  just  with- 
out the  place  where  the  bull's-eye  for  the  pendant  is  to  be  lash- 
ed; haul  well  taut  the  lifts,  burtons,  and  pendant-tackles  alike — 
reeve  whips,  and  get  up  the  triatic-stays.  The  bull's-eyes  for 
the  pendants  are  lashed  sufficiently  far  out  on  the  yards,  to  allow 
the  anchor  to  clear  the  ship's  side.  Reeve  the  pendant  up 
through  it,  and  clench  the  end  to  the  lower  mast-head ;  have  a 
thimble  in  the  lower  end,  to  which  the  purchases  are  hooked. 
Have  a  thwart  ship-tackle  in  readiness,  to  bouse  the  anchor  to 
the  gunwale ;  lash  the  lower  block  of  the  main-purchases,  to  the 
crown  of  the  anchor,  having  guys  from  each  fluke  to  keep  it 
steady.  The  fore  purchase-block  is  lashed  to  the  ring. 

Rack  the  topsail- tye  aloft,  and  hook  the  lower  block  of  the 
fore-topsail  halliards  to  a  stout  strap,  passed  round  the  shank  of 
the  anchor  amidships,  then  lashed  above  the  middle  of  the 
upper  arm  of  the  stock.  "Sway  away;"  when  high  enough, 
haul  over  on  the  stay  and  thwart-ship  tackles,  and  get  the  bill 
of  the  anchor  upon  the  gunwale.  A  cleat  is  nailed  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  stock,  a  lashing  passed  under  it,  and  round  the  tim- 
ber-head in  the  after  part  of  the  forecastle-bulwark  for  the  pur- 
pose ;  another  lashing  from  the  same  place  to  the  upper  arm  of 
the  stock,  and  frap  all  together.  A  shore  is  fitted  frorr  the  Bide, 


OR   YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  IQ9 

on  which  the  anchor  rests,  and  a  lashing  passed  round  the 
shank  through  a  span-shackle  bolt  in  the  side  for  the  purpose ; 
the  inside  fluke  rests  on  a  bill-board  on  the  fore  end  of  the  chess- 
tree,  or  after  part  of  the  fore  chains.  Some  ships  stow  their  an- 
chors further  forward  than  others.  The  anchor  being  secured, 
unbend  the  stream  cable,  and  unlash  purchases. 

Drop  the  lighter  round  on  the  other  side  of  the  ship — shift 
over  the  purchases,  secure  the  yards,  and  get  up  the  other  bowrer 
and  waist-anchors  in  the  same  manner.  When  done,  pass  the 
stream-cable  below,  and  coil  it  down  in  the  tier. 

Note. — Belaying  cat-head  stopper.  After  being  boused  well 
taut  with  a  jigger,  take  as  many  turns  as  the  rope  will  allow, 
over  the  timber-head  on  the  forecastle  bulwarks,  and  seize  it  well 
to  its  own  wart  with  spun-yarn.  The  shank-painter  is  set  taut 
and  belayed  in  the  same  manner. 


195.— BENDING  THE  CABLES 

A  rope  irf  rove  through  the  ring  of  the  anchor,  the  end  led  in 
through  the  hawse-hole,  and  bent  to  the  cable  with  a  timber- 
hitch,  three  or  four  fathoms  from  the  end,  and  stopt  along  to  the 
end  of  the  cable.  Haul  out  on  the  ring-rope,  and  when  there  is 
sufficient  of  the  end  through  the  ring,  cut  the  stops,  unbend  the 
ring-rope,  and  form  an  inside  clinch,  having  it  smaller  than  the 
ring  of  the  anchor.  The  bends  are  put  on  opposite  to  each  other, 
and  a  small  bend  put  on  near  the  end  to  secure  it.  Render  the 
cables  as  far  as  possible  through  the  clinch,  and  stop  them  to- 
ge'Jxer  to  prevent  chafes,  &c. 

Note. — The  chain  cables  are  shackled  to  the  rings  of  the  an- 
£>  -ors ;  then  bend  the  buoys  and  buoy-ropes. 


196.— TO  RANGE  AND  STOPPER  THE  CABLES. 

Before  ranging  the  cables,  they  should  be  bitted,  which  is  done 
as  follows :  — When  the  cables  are  bent,  haul  up  sufficient  slack 
to  form  a  bight  abaft  the  bitts ;  throw  the  bight  which  is  thus 
formed,  over  the  head  of  the  bitts  (and  in  case  it  is  to  be  weather 
bitted,  take  another  turn  round  the  cavil).  In  ranging,  get  a 
tail-block  over  the  hatchway,  through  which  reeve  a  rope;  over- 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

haul  down,  and  hitch  to  the  cable.  Take  the  running  part  clost. 
out  to  the  side,  bouse  on  the  rope,  and  flake  the  cable  fore  and 
aft  the  deck.  Clap  on  deck  and  bitt-stoppers,  before  and  abaft 
the  bitts ;  put  on  rounding  at  the  range,  if  hemp,  which  is  in- 
tended to  veer,  and  also  have  cable  mats  in  readiness,  to  be  used 
as  may  be  required.  If  a  hemp-cable,  a  small  range  forward  of 
the  part  bitted  ;  if  chain-cable  it  merely  requires  bitting  ;  ranging 
is  unnecessary. 

Note. — When   the   anchor   is   let  go,   veer  from   the   locker 
through  the  compressor — (i.  e.,  supposing  it  to  be  a  chain.) 


197.— STOPPERS,  &c.,  &c. 

The  trip-stoppers. — Both  ends  are  made  fast  to  eye-boity 
under  the  after  part  of  the  fore-channels.  The  score  in  the  end 
of  the  waist-anchor  stock  rests  in  the  bight,  and  is  used  to  trip 
the  anchor  clear  of  the  ship's  side,  when  let  go. 

Deck-stoppers  are  hooked  to  bolts  in  the  deck.  They  have  a 
knot  worked  in  the  end,  with  a  lanyard  fast  to  it.  The  lanyard 
is  passed  round  both  the  stopper  and  cable,  abaft  the  knot,  and 
then  wormed  along  the  cable,  forward  of  it.  (See  claw-stopper). 

Ring-stoppers  are  ropes  middled  ;  the  bights  are  passed  through 
the  deck-bolts,  the  ends  rove  through  the  bight,  and  dogged  along 
the  cable. 

Bitt-stoppers  are  tailed  and  rove  through  the  sampson-knee 
forward  of  the  bitts,  then  taken  over  the  cable  abaft  the  bitts, 
under  again,  and  wormed  along  the  cable  forward.  A  tackle 
may  be  hooked  to  this,  and  used  for  veering. 

Dog-stoppers  are  very  long,  and  are  used  in  the  tiers.  One 
end  is  clenched  round  the  main-mast,  and  the  other  wormed 
along  the  cable. 

The  wing-stoppers  are  similar,  but  are  clenched  around  the 
orlop-deck  beams  in  the  wings. 


198.— COMPRESSORS,   OR  COMBING  STOPPERS 

For  hemp-cables  they  are  very  long,  and  are  tailed.  T\vo 
holes  are  bored  through  the  deck,  abaft  the  after  beam  of  the 
natch ;  one  end  of  the  stopper  is  rove  downwards  through  one  of 
the  holes,  passed  under  the  cable,  and  rove  up  again,  through  the 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


Ill 


other  hole.     Both  ends  are  then  dogged  round  the  cable  taut,  sc 
as  to  nip  it  against  the  beam. 

The  compressor  for  chain-cables  is  an  iron  elbow,  one  end  of 
which  is  bolted  to  the  forward  beam  of  the  hatch  underneath, 
and  intended  to  work  on  the  bolt.  The  elbow  goes  round  the 
cable,  having  an  eye  in  the  other  end,  to  which  a  luff-tackle  is 
hooked ;  which  being  hauled  on,  stoppers  the  cable  effectually. 


199.— PUTTING  ON  NIPPERS. 

Nippers  should  be  from  three  to  five  fathoms  in  length,  and 
made  of  the  best  rope-yarns.  They  are  used  when  heaving  up 
the  anchor,  and  are  passed  as  follows  :  — Lay  the  messenger  on 
the  cable,  and  begin  two  or  three  fathoms  abaft  the  hawse-hole ; 
two  round  turns  are  first  taken  with  the  end  of  the  nipper,  round 
the  messenger,  and  held  by  a  boy,  then  round  both.  The  other 
end  is  wormed  round  the  cable,  as  the  first  was  round  the  mes- 
senger. When  the  strain  becomes  heavy,  racking,  and  even 
round  turns  may  be  used,  having  also  small  heavers,  and  selva- 
gees  to  secure  the  ends  ;  taking  care  to  have  dry  ones  to  use 
when  the  anchor  is  up  and  down. 

Note. — Some  ships  have  done  away  with  the  nippers  alto 
gether,  and  use  nothing  but  the  selvagee  and  heaver.  Each 
nipper-man  provides  two  selvagees,  and  one  heaver ;  also  an  iron 
pin  of  proper  size  to  put  through  the  links  of  the  chain-cable,  to 
prevent  the  muddy  chain  from  slipping  through  the  strap. 


2OO.— IRON    CLAW-STOPPERS,  AND  CLEAR-HAWSE 
SHACKLES. 


These  are  used  for  chain-cables,  instead  of  rope-stoppers,  and 
are  found  very  convenient,  and  more  durable  than  rope.  They 
are  allowed  to  every  ship  in  the  service  by  the  new  regulation, 
and  are  fitted  as  follows : — A  piece  of  chain  four  feet  long,  is  fit- 
ted with  a  devil's-claw  in  one  end,  and  a  slip-hook  in  the  other; 
a  slip-ring  also  in  the  long  link  in  the  chain,  for  the  end  of  the 
slip-hook. 


112  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


201.— TO  CUT,  AND  PASS  A  MESSENGER. 

The  length  should  be  equal  to  twice  the  distance  from  the 
after  part  of  the  capstan,  to  the  roller  in  the  manger,  and  add 
four  times  the  circumference  of  the  capstan-band ;  this  is  suffi 
cient  for  splicing  in  the  eyes  and  taking  turns.  The  messenger 
is  passed  with  three  round  turns,  and  then  the  eyes  lashed  with 
the  lanyard,  figure-of-eight  fashion.  The  part  which  is  brought 
to  the  cable  is  undermost. 

Note. — Some  messengers  are  fitted  with  a  strap  and  toggle  in- 
stead of  a  lashing ;  this  plan  is  much  quicker  than  the  old  way. 
The  size  of  the  strap,  ought  to  be  one  half  the  size  of  the  mes- 
senger;  in  length  it  should  be  once  the  circumference  of  the  cap- 
stan on  the  bight.  Instead  of  splicing  the  two  ends  of  the  strap 
together,  make  a  spritsail-sheet  knot  with  the  six  strands,  reeve 
one  bight  of  the  strap  through  one  eye  of  the  messenger,  the 
other  bight  through  the  other  eye,  and  toggle  them  together. 

To  dip  a  messenger. — Cast  off  the  lashing,  slack  up  the  turns, 
and  pass  the  eye  up  or  down,  as  necessary,  between  the  turns 
and  capstan.  Render  the  turns  through  each  other,  and  pass 
'he  lashing  again. 


202.— SPLICING  ROPE-CABLES. 

Cut  off  the  ropemaker's  fag-end,  and  unlay  the  cable  suffi- 
ciently far  for  splicing.  Take  the  inside  yarns  and  lay  them  up 
into  three  strands,  equal  to  the  piece  of  rope  intended  for  the  tails, 
and  splice  these  small  strands  and  tails  together.  Take  the  out- 
side yarns  and  make  them  into  three-yarn  plaits  or  knittles,  then 
marl  the  remaining  yarn  down  over  the  splice  and  tail,  and 
point  over  all  with  the  plaits  or  knittles.  The  cable  is  then  open- 
ed with  setting  fids  and  commanders,  and  the  splice  made,  each 
strand  boused  through  with  jiggers ;  the  ends  are  put  in  twice 
on  the  tier,  and  once  on  the  anchor  part.  Take  a  good  piece  of 
small-rope,  and  pass  it  as  a  round-seizing,  close  to  the  splice,  and 
cross  it  on  all  sides.  When  finished  it  will  look  square;  and 
pass  another,  with  smaller  stuff,  close  to  the  ends.  Worm  the 
ends  into  the  lay  of  the  cable,  and  pass  three  or  four  spun-yarn 
seizings,  at  equal  distances  round  them  and  the  cable,  to  keep 
them  in  the  lay — make  the  seizings,  and  whip  the  ends  of  the 
tails.  The  size  of  the  seizing,  and  number  of  turns,  depend  on 
the  size  of  the  cable. 


Temporary  Rudder,  Bi'ting-  a  Cabie.  &c.  &c. 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  113 

Bends. — The  small  rope  used  as  seizings  in  clinching,  are  sc 
jailed.  The  end  of  the  cable  for  clinching  to  the  anchor  should 
be  wormed  with  good  strands,  and  backed  with  good  spun-yarn, 
and  the  end  capped.  The  worming  should  be  long  enough  to 
'orm  the  clinch,  and  the  cable  well  tarred  before  and  after  its 
being  done.  The  lay  of  the  cable  opens  in  clinching,  and  being 
wormed,  it  prevents  the  wet  getting  into  the  heart  of  the  rope,  or 
lodging.  To  pass  the  bends,  have  a  good  piece  of  rope  of  the 
length  and  size  required ;  bring  both  parts  together,  leaving  one 
end  a  third  longer  than  the  other ;  then  pass  it  round  both  parts 
of  the  cable,  and  put  both  ends  through  the  bight.  Pass  the 
under  turns  with  the  short  end,  the  upper  or  riding-turns  with 
the  long  one.  Stop  both  ends  well  with  spun-yarn  to  their  next 
parts,  and  cross  the  whole  seizing  or  bend,  with  sennit ;  pass  the 
sennit  on  the  bight,  and  secure  both  together  with  a  reef-knot 


203.— TO  SHIP,  AND  UNSHIP  A  RUDDEK. 

Have  the  rudder  brought  under  the  stern,  hung  to  a  scow. 
Bore  a  hole  through  the  beam  or  carling  over  the  rudder  case — 
drive  an  eyebolt  up  through  it,  and  fit  a  washer  and  forelock. 
Strap  a  large  single  block*  with  hook  and  thimble,  and  hook  it 
to  the  eye-bolt ;  reeve  a  top-pendant  through  the  single  block, 
down  through  the  rudder-case,  and  hitch  it  to  an  eye-bolt,  which 
is  temporarily  fitted  into  the  rudder-head.  Clap  a  deck-tackle  on 
to  the  other  end  of  the  pendant;  have  heel-ropes  leading  forward 
on  each  side,  after  being  rove  through  their  respective  holes  in 
the  rudder.  Man  the  deck-tackle  fall,  and  hoist  away.  When 
the  rudder  is  high  enough,  guy  it  fair  with  the  heel-ropes  ;  see 
the  pintles  fair  for  entering  the  gudgeons,  — lower  away,  and  fit 
in  the  wood-lock.  Come  up  the  pendant,  unreeve  the  heel-ropes — 
take  the  bolt  from  the  rudder-head,  also  the  one  from  the  beam 
or  carling  afoove — ship  the  tiller,  and  reeve  the  wheel-ropes. 

To  unship  it. — Fit  the  bolts,  single  block,  pendant  and  deck- 
tackle  as  before,  unreeve  the  wheel-ropes,  unship  the  tiller,  knock 
out  the  wood-lock,  and  "  sway  away."  When  the  pintles  are 
clear  of  the  gudgeons,  lower  away,  and  secure  it  to  the  scow  or 
lighter — tow  it  on  shore,  and  parbuckle,  or  hoist  it  out  of  the 
water  or  scow. 


*  If  a  top-block  can  be  procured,  it  will  answer  best,  as  the  neck  of  the  hoc.i 
being  shorter,  it  will  give  more  hoist. 


114 


THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 


2O4.— GETTING  THE  GUNS   ON   BOARD. 


The  gun-car- 
riages and  all  the 
equipments  be- 
longing to  the 
guns  are  brought 
alongside  in 
lighters,  and 
hoisted  in  with 
the  yard  &  stay. 
Get  them  on  their 
respective  decks, 
and  reeve  the 
purchase  for  get- 
ting the  guns  on 
board. 

Securing  the 
main-yard. — To 
the  bolts  in  the 
lower  cap,  hook 
the  double  blocks 
of  two  burtons. 
The  single  ones 
are  hooked  to 
selvagee  -  straps, 
round  the  yard, 
close  to  the  lifts, 
and  the  falls  sent 
on  deck,  through 
leading  -  blocks. 

Bouse  well  taut  the  main-lifts  and  burtons  together,  and  belay. 
Then  pass  a  good  lashing  round  the  main-yard  in  the  slings, 
and  main-mast,  to  keep  the  yard  steady,  and  support  the  trusses, 
they  being  previously  boused  well  taut. 

Take  the  top  tackle-pendant,  and  reeve  it  through  a  top-block, 
secured  well  to  the  yard  with  a  good  lashing,  passed  round  the 
hook,  on  the  outside  quarter ;  take  the  pointed  end  over  the  cap, 
pass  it  between  the  head  of  the  mast  and  heel  of  the  topmast, 
take  two  half-hitches  on  its  own  part,  or  that  from  the  yard,  anc* 
secure  the  end  with  a  round-seizing  of  spun-yarn.  Get  a  single 
whip  upon  the  main-yard,  close  to  the  lashing,  bend  one  end  to 
the  hook  of  the  top-tackle  fall-block;  hoist  the  block  up  and 
hook  it  to  the  thimble  in  the  pendant.  Through  this  and  the 
other  top-tackle  fall-block,  reeve  a  fall;  clench  one  end  (the 
standing  part),  round  the  main  yard  close  to  th^  block;  the  othe- 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  U5 

end,  when  rove  full,  through  a  leading  block  on  deck,  by  the 
hitts. 

The  garnet-purchase  is  a  pendant,  with  a  thimble  in  the 
upper  end,  which  is  hooked  to  the  main-pendant-tackle;  the 
other  end  is  rove  down  through  holes  bored  in  the  deck  for  the 
purpose,  and  a  stout  hook  and  thimble  spliced  or  turned  into  the 
end.  The  garnet  should  be  long  enough  to  go  on  the  lower- 
.leck,  and  the  holes  bored  perpendicular  to  the  centre  of  the  port 
through  which  the  guns  are  to  be  got  on  board.  The  slings  are 
made  of  breaching-stuff,  twice  the  length  of  the  gun,  the  ends 
spliced  together,  and  the  strands  put  in  twice  each  way ;  seize 
an  eye  on  the  bight,  large  enough  to  go  over  the  breach  of  the 
^un ;  put  over  the  eye,  and  put  the  slings  along  the  upper  part 
of  the  gun,  lashing  them  with  a  piece  of  rope  round  all,  just  for- 
ward of  the  trunnion  ;  put  the  other  end  over  the  muzzle,  and  in 
toggle.  Lash  the  purchase-block  to  the  bight  of  the  slings,  and 
also  bend  on  a  hawser  to  weigh  the  gun,  in  the  event  of  parting 
'lie  purchase.  "  Sway  away ;"  drop  the  lighter  from  under  the 
gun,  and  when  the  breach  is  as  high  as  the  port,  hook  the  gar- 
net and  alsoana-thwartship-tackle  to  the  breech-ring ;  haul  on  the 
tackle  and  bring  the  gun  in  through  the  port — run  a  carriage  un- 
der— lower  away ;  place  the  trunnions  fair,  and  clamp  them ; 
come  up  the  purchases,  and  transport  the  gun  to  its  port.  The 
lower  and  main-deck  guns  are  got  in  in  the  same  way.  The  can- 
nonades are  taken  over  the  rail ;  a  toggle  is  put  in  the  muzzle, 
one  bight  of  the  slings  over  the  cascable,  the  other  over  the  muz- 
zle, and  back-lashed  to  the  toggle ;  the  stay  or  purchase-block  is 
lashed  on  midships  of  the  slings,  and  the  stay  or  pendant-tackle 
to  the  same  place;  consequently  the  gun  will  coma  in  square. 
Have  the  bed  and  slide  ready,  place  it  fair,  and  drive  in  the  naval- 
bolt.  Ship  the  screws,  beds,  and  coins  ;  reeve  the  breeching, 
hook  side  and  train-tackles ;  see  the  guns  square  in  the  ports, 
and  secure  them. 

The  main-deck  guns  might  be  taken  in  over  the  rail  and 
struck  down  the  main-hatch ;  but  I  prefer  their  being  taken  in 
through  the  port,  if  plenty  of  men. 

Note. — The  reason  for  having  additional  security  on  the  main- 
yard  is,  because  in  getting  in  the  guns,  the  strain  is  altogether 
on  the  yard ;  while  in  getting  up  the  anchors,  the  strain  is  di- 
vided between  two  yards.  The  burtons  are  sometimes  frapped 
in  with  the  main-lift,  between  the  yard  and  cap ;  but  I  prefer 
their  not  being  done  so.  as  they  will  all  render  fairer,  when  the 
strain  comes  on  them.  It  is  customary  to  top  the  main-yard  up ; 
but  I  saw  a  line-of-battle  ship's  guns  got  in  without  it,  and  as  it 
orings  a  greater  strain  on  the  slings  and  trusses,  it  should  not  be 
.lone  to  so  great  an  extent  as  is  the  practice. 

Cautirti. — When  the  garnet-purchase  is  raising  the  breech  tc 


HG  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR, 

the  level  required  to  place  the  gun  in  its  carriage,  care  must  be 
taken  that  the  main-purchase  be  not  lowered  by  a  turn,  but  that 
the  men  on  the  fall  "  walk  back  "  with  a  steady  step. 

When  the  gun  is  lodged  in  its  carriage,  it  is  removed  to  its 
proper  port,  and  another  carriage  is  rolled  to  the  receiving  port, 
»'eady  for  the  reception  of  the  next  gun,  and  so  on. 


205.— FITTING  SHACKLE-BREECHINGS. 

If  it  be  required  to  fit  the  breechings  on  this  recently  improved 
plan,  it  will  be  necessary  to  taper  and  point  both  ends  of  the 
rope  preparatory  to  splicing  or  turning-in  a  shackle  on  each  ex- 
tremity. The  shackle  should  be  turned-in  and  secured  to  each 
end  of  the  breeching  by  two  separate  seizings,  one  close  to  the 
shackle,  and  the  other  towards  the  pointed  end  of  the  rope. 
They  are  frequently  spliced  into  a  thimble  and  then  shackled, 
which  I  think  is  much  neater.* 

By  this  simple  and  serviceable  method,  the  breeching  may  be 
shifted  in  a  few  seconds,  it  being  no  longer  necessary  to  reeve  it 
through  the  ring  at  the  breech.  An  opening  is  now  made  in  the 
cascable,  which  admits  the  introduction  of  the  breeching  on  the 
bight ;  and  the  cascable  fitted  with  a  hinge  or  snatch,  and  some- 
times a  bolt  going  through  the  cascable,  confines  the  breeching 
and  prevents  it  jumping  out  on  the  recoil  of  the  gun. 


206.— TRIATIC   STAYS. 

A  double  block  is  strapped  into  a  pendant,  a  hook  and  thimble 
spliced  into  one  end ;  a  single  block  is  strapped  with  a  hook  and 
thimble,  a  fall  is  rove,  the  standing-part  bent  into  a  becket  in  the 
strap  of  the  single  block  ;  sometimes  the  double  block  is  strapped, 
and  the  pendant  spliced  in  over  the  seizing.  A  good  strap  with 
a  thimble  seized  into  it,  is  fitted  to  the  strap  of  the  lower  block. 
A  piece  of  rope  is  spliced  round  the  strap  of  the  fore-stay  block, 
and  the  other  end,  when  cut  to  the  required  length;  spliced  round 
the  strap  of  the  main-stay  block,  and  seized.  This  is  called  the 
span,  and  is  generally  the  length  between  the  fore  and  main- 


*  This  last  improvement  was  introduced  by  FRANCIS  GRICE,  Esq.,  chief  Nava 
Constructor,  U.  S.  N. 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  1 17 

hatchways.  The  main-stay  hooks  to  a  strap  with  a  thimble  in 
it,  from  round  the  main-mast-head  on  the  fore  side ;  the  fore 
from  one  abaft,  fitted  in  the  same  manner.  The  main  one  gen- 
erally comes  down  alongside  the  slings,  the  fore  one  between  the 
trestle-trees,  abaft.  The  pendant  and  tackle  are  sometimes  fitted 
separate,  to  hook,  and  are  easier  stowed  away. 

Note. — In  case  of  emergency,  these  pendants  may  be  taken 
round  the  mast-head,  and  hooked  to  their  own  parts.  I  have 
known  some  ships  to  use  them  this  way  altogether. 


207 — HOISTING  IN    SPARS. 

Overhaul  down  the  fore  and  main-yard  tackles,  fore  and  main- 
ntays,  and  lead  their  falls  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  deck  the 
spars  come  in  at.  Hook  burtons  to  the  lower  caps  (double 
blocks),  single  ones  to  selvagees  round  the  lower  yard-arm,  close 
inside  the  lifts.  Send  the  falls  on  deck,  and  pull  up  the  lifts  and 
burtons  together,  and  trusses ;  brace  the  fore-yard  in,  and  hook 
on  to  the  spars.  They  should  be  always  hoisted  in  as  stowed.* 

If  the  spars  are  too  long  to  come  in  abreast,  between  the  fore 
and  main-masts,  such  as  topmasts,  hook  the  main-stay  to  the 
strap  round  the  foremost  end,  and  fore-stay  to  the  after  one ;  then 
hook  the  yards  to  separate  straps  made  of  pieces  of  stout  "rope 
knotted  together,  or  good  selvagees,  according  to  the  weight  of 
the  spar.  Man  the  yards  and  walk  them  up;  when  clear  of 
hammock-nettings,  haul  on  the  main-stay,  ease  the  fore  and 
main-yards,  keeping  the  spar  square,  and  get  the  foremost  end 
inside  the  rigging ;  then  ease  the  main-stay,  and  get  the  spar  in 
its  place  on  the  booms.  Small  spars  can  be  got  in  with  the 
main-yard,  a  double  whip  on  main-stay,  or  single  guy  if  required. 


208.— STOWING  BOOMS. 

The  spars  on  the  starboard  side  are  stowed  as  follows,  viz. : 
Main-topmast,  head  aft;  main-topgallant,  (mast-fishes)  half-yard, 
main  topmast  studding-sail  booms,  and  jib-boom.  On  the  lar- 


*  The  spars  intended  to  be  stowed  underneath,  should  be  Hoisted  in  first ;  such 
a.s  topmasts,  half-yards,  and  jib-boom,  for  the  lower  tier,  and  round  off  with  the 
»maller  spars  on  the  top. 


[18  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR  5 

board  side — fore-topmast,  head  forward:  fore-topgallant-mast> 
mast-fish,  half-yard,  fore  topmast  studding-sail  booms,  flying-jib- 
boom,  &c. 

There  are  several  small  spars  which  are  equally  divided,  to 
make  the  booms  as  snug  and  neat  as  possible.  A  great  deal  of 
room  can  be  gained  by  stowing  them  amidships  in  one  pile,  and 
the  boats  on  each  side.  As  the  spars  are  stowed,  they  should  be 
numbered  on  each  end,  also  a  list  taken,  and  painted  on  the  fore- 
side  of  the  boom-boards  ;  by  so  doing  it  will  save  much  time  and 
trouble  to  find  any  spar  that  may  be  required ;  as  I  have  seen  all 
the  booms  unlashed  before  a  spar  was  found. 

The  booms  are  lashed  to  span-shackles  in  the  deck  for  the 
purpose!  A  few  small  spars  should  be  kept  out,  to  drive  under 
the  lashing,  to  set  all  taut.  When  stowed  they  are  covered  with 
tarpaulins,  or  matting  made  for  the  purpose.  When  the  spars 
are  all  in,  square  the  yards. 

Note. — It  is  becoming  the  general  practice,  to  stow  both  top- 
masts with  their  heads  forward.  Many  ships  stow  all  their  spars 
amidships  in  one  pile,  with  the  exception  of  the  fore  and  main- 
topmasts,  which  are  stowed  outside  of  the  boats  ;  spare  main-top 
sail  yard  on  the  larboard-quarter,  the  fore  on  the  starboard- 
quarter,  in  the  chains,  and  spare  jib-boom  across  the  stern,  secured 
underneath  the  stern-davits.* 


*  Some  ships  stow  topmasts  and  all  amidships ;  but  this  is  a  bad  plan,  as  il 
would  be  necessary  to  take  out  all,  to  get  a  topmast  if  required,  it  being  under- 
aeath. 


PART   III. 


REEVING  RUNNING  RIGGING. 


2O9 FORE  BOWLINES. 

The  fore  bowlines  have  an  eye  in  one  end,  to  go  over  the  tog- 
gle, and  are  rove  through  a  single  block,  seized  into  a  single  strap, 
and  secured  to  the  fore-stay  collar  with  a  seizing  passed  through 
an  eye  left  in  the  strap,  and  the  other  end  led  in  on  the  forecastle. 

The  fore  and  main  clue-garnets  are  hitched  to  the  yards,  then 
rove  through  a  block  lashed  in  the  clews  of  the  sail,  up  through 
a  block  on  the  quarter  of  the  yard,  down  to  the  fife-rail. 


21O.— POKE-TOPS  AIL  CLEWLINES. 

Topsail  clewlines  are  fitted  the  same  as  clew-garnets,  and 
sometimes  with  a  whip ;  they  come  on  deck  through  lubber's 
hole. 

When  fitted  with  a  whip,  a  piece  of  rope  nearly  equal  to  the 
double  clewline,  is  rove  through  the  quarter-block,  and  an  eye 
spliced  in  one  end,  which  is  secured  with  a  seizing  round  the 
clew,  when  the  sail  is  bent.  In  the  other  end,  splice  a  single 
block,  and  reeve  a  fall  through  it ;  one  end  splice  into  a  bolt  in 
the  deck,  and  the  other  reeve  through  a  leading-block,  well  apart 
from  the  standing-part. 

Note. — The  disadvantage  of  double  clewlines,  is,  the  points 
getting  in  the  clew-blocks  when  clewing  up,  or  sheeting  home. 


120  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR  ; 


211.— TOPSAIL  BUNTLINflS 

Are  toggled  to  the  foot  of  the  sails,  and  rove  thiough  single 
blocks  at  the  mast-head,  underneath  the  rigging,  and  through 
lubber's  hole  on  deck.  Cheeks  or  sheaves  set  in  the  foremost  end 
of  the  trestle-trees  are  best,  as  they  keep  the  buntlines  clear  of 
/he  belly  of  the  sails.  Blocks  in  bolts  will  do  equally  as  well, 
but  do  not  look  so  r.  eat.  I  would  recommend  fitting  a  shoe- 
block  underneath  the  eyes  of  the  rigging,  on  each  side,  in  prefer- 
ence. 

Buntline-spans  are  short  pieces  of  rope,  with  a  thimble  in  one 
end,  and  the  other  end  whipped ;  the  buntlines  are  rove  through 
these  thimbles,  before  being  bent  to  the  sail,  or  rove  at  the  mast- 
head. At  sea  these  spans  are  knotted  together,  abaft  the  tye- 
blocks  on  the  yard,  and  stopped  to  them.  When  in  harbor,  they 
are  let  go,  to  allow  the  sails  being  triced  well-up  to  furl,  or  hauled 
5ut  to  dry,  by  the  bowlines,  when  toggled  to  the  foot  of  the  sail. 


212.— FORETOP  BOWLINES 

Have  an  eye  spliced  in  one  end  to  go  over  the  toggle  on  the 
Bridle ;  the  other  is  rove  through  a  block  at  the  bowsprit-cap, 
strapped  into  a  bolt,  or  a  sheave  cut  in  the  after  end  of  the  bees 
and  led  in  on  the  forecastle. 


213.— MAIN  BUNTLINES. 

There  are  two  on  each  quarter,  and  reeve  on  the  bights. 
Reeve  first  through  the  large  sheave  in  a  shoe-block,  then  reeve 
both  ends,  from  forward,  through  the  double  block  under  the  fore 
part  of  the  main-top,  and  bend  or  clinch  both  ends  to  the  holes 
in  the  foot  of  the  sail  for  the  purpose.  Sometimes  toggles  are 
fitted  into  the  holes,  with  double  straps,  and  an  eye  spliced  into 
each  end  of  the  buntlines.  If  no  shoe-block  is  to  be  got,  seize 
two  single  ones  into  one  strap.  Through  the  other  sheave  of 
shoe-block,  reeve  a  fall ;  clinch  one  end  to  the  main-stay  by  the 
foremast,  or  splice  an  eye  and  seize  it  round  it.  The  other  end 
reeve  through  a  leading  block,  seized  into  a  single  strap,  leaving 
an  eye  to  seize  it  to  the  stay,  or  through  a  sheave  or  leading 
block  in  the  fore-bitts. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


» 14.— FORE  BUNTLINES 

Generally  toggle  to  the  foot  of  the  sail,  and  are  sometimes 
:linched ;  then  rove  through  a  double  block  under  the  fore  part 
of  the  fore-top,  and  through  fair  leading  sheaves  in  the  racks  to 
the  bulwarks^  The  buntline  should  be  long  enough  to  allow 
the  sail  to  belly.  The  outside  leg  of  the  buntline  is  sometimes 
rove  through  a  thimble  strapped  into  the  foot  of  the  sail,  and 
clenched  into  a  cringle  put  into  the  bolt-rope,  a  few  feet  above 
the  clew. 


215.— MAIN  BOWLINE 

Is  a  runner  and  tackle,  and  is  rove  and  unrove  as  required. 
It  is  rove  through  the  thimble  seized  on  the  bowline  bridle ;  the 
end  of  the  runner  is  secured  round  the  fore-bitts,  or  to  a  cleat. 
The  lower  block  of  the  gun-tackle  purchase  is  fitted  with  a  hook, 
and  hooked  to  a  strap  close  to  the  end  of  the  runner,  for  the  pur- 
pose. I  have  seen  the  main-bowline  boused  up  to  the  weather- 
forecastle  bulwarks,  which  I  think  preferable,  not  seeing  any 
very  great  advantage  from  its  being  hauled  amidships ;  partic- 
ularly when  it  is  considered  that  the  main-topsail  yard,  on  a 
wind,  is  braced  abaft  the  main-yard. 


216.— TOPGALLANT  SHEETS 

Are  rove  through  the  sheave  in  the  topsail-yard,  then  through 
the  after  sheave  in  the  double  block  in  the  quarter  of  the  topsail- 
yard,  and  through  a  leading  sheave  or  block  on  deck.  The  up- 
per end  is  bent  to  the  clew  of  the  topgallant-sail ;  sometimes  a 
long-eye  is  spliced,  which  goes  over  a  toggle  in  the  clew  of  the 
sail.  They  are  also  fitted  with  sister-hooks,  which  is  the  latest 
and  most  improved  plan. 


122  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


2 17. -TOPGALLANT   CLEWLINES 

Are  bent  through  the  clew  of  the  sail,  and  secured  with  a  sheet- 
bend  ;  it  is  then  rove  through  the  foremost  sheave  on  the  quarter- 
block  on  the  yard  and  sent  down  through  lubber's  hole  on  deck. 


218.— FORE   TOPGALLANT  BOWLINES 

Are  toggled  to  the  bridle  of  the  sail.  The  fore  one  is  rove 
through  a  single  block  at  the  jib-boom  end,  one  on  each  side,  and 
led  in  on  the  forecastle  through  fair  leaders.  These  blocks  are 
strapped  like  span-blocks,  and  lashed  together  on  the  upper  side 
with  two  lashing-eyes ;  they  are  sometimes  strapped  singly,  and 
go  over  the  boom-end,  or  seized  to  the  guys.  Double  blocks  are 
also  sometimes  put  in  these  straps,  and  the  two  inner  sheaves 
used  as  jib-brail-leaders. 


MAIN  TOPGALLANT  BOWLINES 

Are  toggled  to  the  bridle  of  the  sail,  then  rove  through  sheaves 
cut  in  the  after  part  of  the  fore-topmast-crosstrees,  and  through 
lubber's  hole,  through  fair  leading  sheaves  on  deck.  Single  tail- 
blocks  are  sometimes  used,  clove-hitched  round  the  after  shroud 
in  the  fore-topmast  rigging,  close  up  to  the  futtock-stave,  or  seized. 


22O.— MIZEN  TOPGALLANT   BOWLINES 

Are  toggled  to  the  bridle  of  the  sail,  and  rove  through  single 
blocks  on  each  side  of  the  main-mast  head,  and  through  fair 
leading  blocks  on  deck.  A  double  block  is  often  used  instead  of 
two  single  ones  on  each  side,  one  sheave  for  the  brace,  the  other 
for  the  bowline.  They  should  be  led  from  lubber's  hole  abaft 
all,  between  the  cat-harpen  legs,  or  futtock-shrouds. 


OR   VOTING  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  133 


221.— TOPGALLANT  BUNTLINES 

Are  seldom  used  in  light  weather,  although  very  necessary  in 
taking  in  sail,  when  blowing  fresh,  as  they  save  much  time,  and 
in  some  instances  a  man's  life.  On  a  wind  it  spills  the  sail,  and 
prevents  its  getting  over  the  lee  yard-arm ;  and  going  free  ena- 
bles the  men  to  furl  it  much  easier.  A  strong  proof  of  their 
utility  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  merchant  vessels,  who 
have  as  little  rope  rove  as  possible,  and  are  generally  weak-hand- 
ed, have  their  sails  fitted  with  buntliues. 

They  are  fitted  as  follows  :  — A  piece  of  rope  with  a  thimble  on 
it,  is  spliced  into  two  eyelet-holes,  worked  in  the  foot  of  the  sail, 
about  a  third  from  eacli  clew.*  Splice  the  end  of  the  buntline 
round  the  thimble ;  reeve  the  other  end  through  a  single  block, 
seized  into  a  single  strap,  and  secured  round  the  topgallant  mast- 
head by  a  lashing  passed  over  all ;  send  the  end  of  the  buntline 
through  lubber's  hole,  on  deck  before  all  to  the  fife-rail. 


222 — ROYAL  BOWLINES. 

The  fore  royal-bowline  is  rove  through  a  block  at  the  flying- 
jib-boom  end,  and  led  in  on  the  forecastle,  through  a  fair  leader, 
the  same  as  the  topgallant-bowline,  and  the  main-royal  bowlines 
through  the  chock  at  fore-topmast  head. 


223.— REEF-TACKLES 

Are  sometimes  double,  and  also  fitted  with  a  whip,  as  clew- 
lines, or  pendant  and  burton.  When  double,  a  single  block  is 
seized  into  a  single  strap,  having  a  thimble  in  it.  and  the  seizing 
passed  between  the  block  and  thimble.  This  block  goes  on  the 
bridle,  or  cringle,  in  the  leech  of  the  topsails.  One  end  of  the 
reef-tackle  is  clinched  round  the  neck  of  the  boom-iron,  the  other 
rove  through  the  block,  up  through  the  sheave  in  the  yard-arm, 
and  through  the  upper  sheave  in  the  sister-block,  through  lul> 
oer's  hole,  and  through  a  leading  block  or  sheave  on  deck. 


This  piece  of  rope  is  called  a  span. 


124  THE  KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

When  single,  an  eye  is  spliced  in  the  end  of  the  pendant,  to  gc 
over  a  toggle  fitted  to  a  bridle,  as  above ;  the  other  end  rove 
through  the  yard  and  sister-block,  a  single  block  spliced  into  the 
end,  and  a  whip  rove,  as  on  the  clewline. 

Note. — The  generality  of  naval  ships  use  their  top-burtons  with 
its ;  some  object  to  thi 


short  hide-pendants ;  some  object  to  this,  as  the  top-burtons  may 
be  wanted,  when  they  are  in  use  as  reef-tackles. 


224.— LEECH-LINES. 

The  forward  leech-lines  are  rove  through  the  upper  sheave-hole 
of  a  shoe-block ;  both  parts  are  then  rove  through  a  double  block, 
hooked  with  a  pendant  to  the  lower  cap,  then  through  two  single 
blocks  seized  to  the  jackstays  on  the  yards,  and  are  clinched  to 
the  leeches  of  the  courses,  forward  of  the  sail. 

The  lower  legs  are  rove  through  the  other  sheave-hole  in  the 
shoe-block,  and  the  standing-part  made  fast  to  the  fife-rail ;  the 
other  end  being  used  to  haul  up  the  sails. 

The  after  leech-lines  are  rove  through  blocks  on  the  under- 
neath part  of  the  yard,  and  clinched  to  the  courses  abaft  the  sail, 
to  the  same  places  as  the  forward  ones. 

Note. — Shoe-blocks  are  now  pretty  much  out  of  fashion — when 
they  are  not  used,  both  parts  of  the  leech-lines  are  led  on  deck 
and  the  whip-purchase  dispensed  with. 


225.— SLAB-LINES 

Are  bent  to  the  middle  of  a  span  at  the  foot  of  the  sail,  led  up 
abaft,  and  rove  through  a  block  lashed  to  the  grommet  or  span, 
around  the  straps  of  the  quarter-blocks  of  the  lower  yards,  and 
down  on  deck.  These  are  very  necessary  in  light  weather,  and 
in  rough  weather,  may  be  converted  into  spilling-lines. 


226.— KOYAL  CLEW-LINES 

Are  bent  to  the  clews  of  the  sail,  rove  through  the  quarter- 
olocks  on  the  yard,  and  led  either  in  the  tops,  or  on  deck. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  135 

2 2 7. —FITTING  TACKS  AND  SHEETS,  BUMKIN- 
GEAR,  &c. 

A  single  block  is  seized  into  a  single  strap,  leaving  an  eye  to 
fit.  the  bumkin ;  this  block  is  made  with  a  shoulder,  which  lays 
on  the  bumkin  when  the  block  is  on. 

Bumkin-braces  are  now  generally  chain ;  one  is  hooked  to  the 
bow,  and  two  to  the  cutwater ;  and  set  up  with  a  lanyard  rove 
through  span-shackles  in  their  ends,  and  others  on  the  bumkin, 
or  with  a  turnbuckle. 

Reeving  the  tack. — Clinch  the  large  end  round  the  oumkin, 
outside  the  block,  having  been  well  wormed,  parceled,  and  served, 
far  enough  towards  the  small  end  to  take  the  block  on  the  bum- 
kin,  when  the  sail  is  reefed.  Reeve  the  small  end  through  the 
block  in  the  sail,  then  through  that  on  the  bumkin,  and  in  on  the 
forecastle  through  a  hole  in  the  bulwarks,  for  the  purpose. 

Fore  sheet. — The  large  end  is  served  the  same  as  the  tack, 
and  is  hooked  into  a  bolt  in  the  side  for  the  purpose ;  the  small 
end  is  rove  through  the  block  in  the  sail,  and  through  a  sheave 
in  the  side,  or  gangway  bulwarks.  Large  ships  generally  work 
the  fore-sheet  in  the  waist  (main-deck),  but  it  is  often  worked  on 
the  gangway,  (spar-deck). 


228.— YARD  TACKLE    TRICING-LINES. 

If  no  cheek  on  the  yard,  take  the  pendants  taut  along  from 
the  yard-arm,  and  then  secure  a  single  tail-block.  On  the  fore- 
most shroud,  well  up,  seize  another  single  block,  fitted  with  a 
single  strap,  leaving  room  when  seized-in,  for  the  seizing  with 
which  it  is  secured  to  the  shroud.  Round  the  fiddle-block  in  the 
pendant,  between  both  sheaves,  secure  the  tricing-line  with  a 
running-eye ;  then  reeve  the  other  end  through  the  cheek,  or  tail- 
block,  and  then  through  the  single  block  on  the  shroud,  and  on 
deck. 


229.— TO  REEYE  AND  TOGGLE  ROYAL-HALLIARDS. 

Take  a  round-turn  with  the  yard-rope,  well  up  round  the  strap 
of  the  block,  with  the  long-eye ;  reeve  the  bight  through  the  eye 
and  put  the  toggle  in  it;  then  bring  the  end  up  from  the  block 


126  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

seized  to  the  eye  of  the  shroud,  and  reeve  it  through  the  one  on 
the  yard-rope,  send  the  end  on  deck,  and  reeve  it  through  a  lead- 
ing block. 

When  half-hitched,  the  lower  block  is  fitted  as  described,  and 
secured ;  the  upper  one  is  strapped  with  a  thimble  in  the  strap — 
reeve  the  yard-rope  through  the  thimble,  and  then  through  the 
lower  block,  up  through  the  upper  one,  and  on  deck  through  a 
leader. 


23O.— FORE  STORM-STAYSAIL  GEAR. 

To  fit  the  stay. — Take  a  piece  of  good  rope  of  proportionable 
size  to  the  sail ;  fit  one  end  with  two  legs  as  a  stay,  and  lash 
them  abaft  the  foremast-head,  the  legs  being  placed  underneath 
those  of  the  standing-stay.  Take  a  piece  of  rope  the  round  of 
the  bowsprit,  inside  the  fore-stay  collar ;  splice  an  eye  in  each 
end,  and  seize  a  thimble  in  the  bight — splice  a  lashing  in  one 
eye,  and  secure  the  strap  round  the  bowsprit,  by  passing  it 
through  both  eyes,  until  sufficient  turns  are  taken  to  secure  it. 
Reeve  the  end  of  this  stay  through  the  hanks  for  the  sail,  then 
reeve  it  through  the  thimble  in  the  strap,  and  set  it  well  up  with 
a  luff-purchase  ;  the  double  block  hooked  to  a  strap  well  up  the 
stay,  the  single  one  to  another  strap  on  the  end ;  then  pass  a 
round-seizing  round  both  parts,  close  to  the  thimble — come  up 
the  luff,  and  pass  another  seizing  between  it  and  the  end,  but 
not  at  too  great  a  distance,  as  it  will  prevent  the  sail  from  coming 
close  down. 

Halliards. — Have  a  good  strap  to  go  round  the  foremast-head, 
close  to  the  stay.  It  can  be  fitted  with  two  lashing-eyes,  and 
when  so  fitted  can  be  easier  taken  off,  and  put  on.  When  the 
sail  is  to  be  set,  hook  the  double  block  of  a  luff-tackle  to  this 
strap,  and  the  single  one  to  the  head  of  the  sail ;  the  hauling- 
part  being  sent  down  abaft  the  fore-yard,  and  through  a  leading 
block  on  deck. 

Downhaul. — A  single  block  is  secured  to  the  parts  of  the  strap 
round  the  bowsprit — the  downhaul  is  spliced  to  the  head  of  the 
sail,  then  rove  through  the  hanks,  through  the  single  block,  and 
led  in  on  the  forecastle.  When  a  stay  is  fitted,  the  downhaul 
block  is  seized  to  the  strap  round  the  bowsprit. 

The  downhaul  is  often  double ;  if  so,  a  single  block  is  secured 
to  the  head  of  the  sail,  the  standing-part  of  the  downhaul  secur- 
ed to  the  strap  on  the  bowsprit,  and  the  hauling-part  led  in  as 
before. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  127 

Sheets. — Deck-tackles  are  generally  used,  one  on  each  side : 
.hey  are  hooked  to  the  clew  of  the  sail,  and  the  hooks  well 
moused.  When  the  sheet  is  aft,  the  weather  one  is  overhauled. 
The  after  blocks  are  hooked  to  eye  or  ring-bolts,  as  convenient, 
and  should  not  be  too  high  or  too  low ;  if  too  much  up  and  down, 
they  slack  the  foot  of  the  sail ;  if  too  high,  the  after  leech.  The 
falls  are  rove  through  leading  blocks,  and  the  all  hooks  should 
be  well  moused. 

Note. — These  stays  when  set  up,  may  be  secured  cutter-stay- 
fashion,  instead  of  seizing  the  end  up,  which  will  allow  the  sail 
to  haul  close  down  on  the  bowsprit. 


231.— MAIN   STAYSAIL  GEAR. 

The  stay  is  fitted  the  same  as  the  fore,  and  sets  up  round  the 
cross-piece  in  the  fore  bitts,  after  being  rove  through  the  hanks. 
The  halliards  are  fitted  the  same  as  the  fore. 

The  downhaul  is  rove  through  a  block  strapped  round  the  bitts 
for  the  purpose.  If  rove  double  they  are  fitted  in  the  same 
manner. 

Instead  of  iron  hanks,  I  have  seen  grommets  used,  made  of 
pieces  of  rope,  with  a  wall-knot  worked  on  one  end,  and  an  eye 
spliced  in  the  other ;  these  are  long  enough  to  go  round  the  stay 
and  becket.  They  are  secured  to  eyelet-holes  in  the  sail  with  a 
seizing,  and  are  always  kept  to  it.  I  have  seen  the  sails  set  on 
the  spring-stays,  when  fitted  in  this  way,  but  prefer  separate 
stays. 

There  are  also  other  ways  of  setting  storm-staysails,  but  those 
I  have  mentioned  are  in  most  general  use.  When  a  main-trysail 
can  be  got,  mizen-staysails  should  never  be  drawn,  as  a  ship  will 
keep  much  better  to  windward  with  trysails  and  fore-staysail, 
than  under  the  staysails  alone. 


232 MIZEX-STAYSAIL  GEAR. 

The  halliards  are  hitched  to  the  collar  of  the  staysail-stay,  rovr 
through  a  block  in  the  head  of  the  sail,  then  through  a.  leader, 
and  led  down  on  deck. 

The  downhaul  is  clinched  to  the  head  of  the  sail,  and  rove 


128  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

^ 

through  the  hanks  down  the  mizen-stay.  The  mizen  staysail- 
sheet  is  a  runner,  leading  through  a  snatch-block  and  thimble. 
A  gun-tackle  purchase  is  most  commonly  used,  which  answers 
all  purposes. 


233.— TOPMAST   STAYSAILS,  &c.,  &c. 

Fore. — The  standing  part  of  the  halliards  is  seized  or  hitched 
to  the  fore  topmast  spring-stay,  then  rove  through  a  block  in  the 
head  of  the  sail,  up  through  a  leading  block  under  the  eyes  of 
the  topmast  rigging,  then  down  on  the  larboard  side  of  the  deck 
abaft  the  foremast.  The  down  haul  is  hitched  to  the  head  of  the 
sail,  rove  through  the  hanks,  then  through  a  block  seized  to  the 
tack  of  the  sail,  and  led  in  on  the  forecastle,  through  a  fair  leader. 
The  tack  is  a  simple  lashing. 

The  fore  topmast  staysail  and  jib-sheets  are  pendants  lashed 
to  the  clew  of  the  sail,  with  a  block  in  the  end,  through  which 
the  sheets  are  rove;  the  standing  part  is  hooked  to  an  eyebolt  in 
the  bows,  and  the  running  part  is  led  in  on  the  forecastle. 

Main. — The  standing  part  of  the  halliards  is  hitched  to  the 
collar  of  the  main-topmast  spring-stay,  reeving  through  a  block 
at  the  head  of  the  sail,  then  through  a  block  at  the  main- top- 
mast head,  and  led  down  on  deck.  The  downhaul  is  fitted  the 
same  as  the  fore,  and  led  down  by  the  fore-mast.  The  tack  is 
rove  through  a  block  in  the  weather  fore-rigging,  or  top. 

The  main  topmast  staysail-brails  are  seized  to  the  leech  of  the 
sail,  led  up  through  the  hanks  to  a  block  seized  to  the  upper 
hank,  and  can  also  be  used  as  a  downhaul. 

The  middle,  lower,  and  upper  topgallant-staysails  and  jack- 
stays,  may  be  fitted  in  one.  In  this  case  a  double  block  is  turn- 
ed in,  and  lashed  to  the  after  part  of  the  fore-topmast  crosstrees, 
or  mast-head ;  the  lower  part  is  set  up  in  the  fore- top,  and  the 
upper  part  at  the  fore-topgallant  mast-head. 

The  middle  staysail-stays  are  rove  through  a  single  block, 
strapped  to  the  topmast,  down  on  the  cap. 

The  lower  and  upper  topgallant  staysail-stays,  are  rove 
through  blocks  fitted  to  traverse  the  jackstay,  with  lock-thimbles, 
the  former  being  rove  through  the  other  sheave  of  the  double 
block  at  the  topmast  cross-trees ;  the  latter  through  a  block  at 
the  fore-topgallant  mast-head,  and  both  led  on  deck. 

The  downhaul  blocks  are  single,  and  are  seized  to  the  straps 
of  the  tricing-line  blocks,  The  halliards  are  whips  hitched  to  the 
collars  of  the  stays,  rove  through  blocks  in  the  head  of  the  sail, 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  129 

ihrough  leading  blocks  at  the  mast-head,  and  down  on  deck. 
The  tacks  are  single  and  led  in  the  fore-top;  the  sheets  are  also 
single,  leading  in  the  gangways. 

Note. — The  principle  object  to  be  attended  to,  in  reeving  run- 
ning-rigging,  is  to  avoid  the  ropes  being  too  much  crowded  in 
one  place,  crossing  or  chafing  each  other,  or  any  part  of  the  stand- 
ing rigging,  as  it  not  only  destroys  it,  but  also  decreases  the  de 
sired  purchase  to  be  obtained  by  their  running  clear  of  each 
other. 


234.— SETTING  UP  KIGGING  FOR  A  FULL-DUE 

• 

Have  all  the  luffs  on  deck ;  fore,  main,  and  mizen  pen 
dant-tackles  hooked,  and  tackle-falls  laid  along  for  pulling 
up;  new  lanyards  ready  for  reeving,  seizings,  marling- 
spikes,  levers,  mallets,  grease,  small  spars  for  ratling-down, 
triangles  rigged  ready  for  hoisting  up  the  mast,  to  secure 
the  futtock-shrouds  and  cat-harpen  legs,  (if  used;)  burton- 
falls  sent  on  deck  and  rove — all  the  temporary  ratlines  cast- 
off — spars  got  up  underneath  the  bowsprit  with  the  gra- 
tings for  the  men  to  work  on — topgallant-masts  and  flying 
jib-boom  housed;  and  also  men  stationed  at  the  dead-eyes 
to  turn  in  if  required.  Let  everything  go  abaft  the  masts, 
commence  turning  in  the  dead-eyes,  and  reeve  the  lan- 
yards— set  up  the  bowsprit-rigging  and  secure  it.  Then 
man  the  pendant-tackles,  set  taut  the  after-swifters — (if 
wedges  in)  get  the  mast  well  forward  in  its  place,  and  se- 
cure the  stays.  Cast  off  the  cat-harpen  legs  (if  fitted),  and 
futtock-shrouds.*  Set  up  the  rigging  for  a  full-due,  observing 
the  same  precautions  as  when  it  was  first  set  up. 

The  lanyard  is  now  rove  full,  and  when  racked,  take  the  end 
and  form  a  clove-hitch  above  the  dead-eye,  then  rack  the  surplus- 
end  to  the  inside  parts  of  the  lanyard,  until  the  end  is  expended. 
The  hitch  is  formed  between  the  dead-eye  and  shroud,  around 
both  parts,  in  the  space  left  by  stretching — some  use  a  half-hitch 
taken  over  all  round  the  shroud,  hove  well  back,  the  lanyard  ex- 
pended, and  the  end  seized.  The  ends  of  the  shrouds  are  then 
cut  square  and  capped,  and  the  mats  laced  on. 

Rigging-mats  are  made  with  small  rope,  three-quarter-inch. 


•  Vessels  having  their  futtock-rigging  set  up  to  bands  round  the  mast,  use  no 
cat-harpen  legs,  and  have  therefore  no  occasion  of  coming  up  either  of  the  above 


•  30  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR  ; 

and  are  called  sword-mats.  They  are  generally  the  breadth  oi 
the  dead-eye,  and  long  enough  to  take  in  both — the  lanyards  are 
laced  inside.  They  are  hardly  ever  used  on  topmast  rigging ; 
they  look  heavy,  and  are  of  no  use,  except  on  the  forward 
dhrouds  and  backstays. 


235.— STAYING  MASTS. 

The  practice  of  "  staying  masts  with  the  wedges  in/'  has  been 
already  denounced  as  contrary  to  every  received  system  of  sea- 
manship. The  stays  may  be  set  taut  with  the  wedges  in,  but 
the  masts  should  be  always  free  in  the  partners,  whenever  there 
is  occasion  to  alter  the  position  of  their  standing  ;  because  it  is 
impossible  but  that  the  precise  situation  of  the  mast  must  be  al- 
tered a  little,  rendering  necessary  corresponding  alterations  in 
the  wedges.  When  these  are  made  and  the  wedges  firmly  fixed 
there  can  be  no  inequalities  of  play  or  pressure — the  whole  be- 
comes a  solid  mass,  yielding  naturally  and  uniformly  to  the 
motion  of  the  ship.  Whereas,  if  in  setting  up  the  rigging  the 
wedges  be  kept  fast,  the  mast  pressing  unequally  against  them, 
having  too  much  play  in  one  part,  and  too  little  in  another,  it 
must  inevitably  get  crippled. 

In  preparing  to  set  up  the  rigging,  though  the  stays  may  not 
appear  to  require  a  pull,  it  is  well  to  have  the  luffs  and  tackle 
ready ;  for  after  lifting  the  wedges,  there  is  great  probability  of 
its  being  found  necessary. 


236.— BLACKING  RIGGING. 

The  most  convenient  method  of  blacking  rigging,  is  with  the 
topgallant  masts  on  deck,  but  royal  and  topgallant  rigging  placed 
at  the  mast-heads ;  for  then  men  who  ride  down  and  black  the 
topmast-stays,  can  then  at  the  same  time  easily  black  the  topgal- 
lant and  royal-stays ;  or,  what  is  handier  still — let  the  men  at 
the  mast-head  haul  over  and  black  these  small  stays,  and  pay 
them  down  forward  when  done.  The  men  also  who  black  down 
the  topmast-backstays,  can  carry  on  at  the  same  time  with  the 
topgallant  and  royal-backstays.  By  this  method  the  masts  are 
kept  clean. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  topgallant-masts  be  kept  up  when  black- 
ing, the  small  stays  and  backstays  must  be  let  go,  in  order  that 


OR  YOUXG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 

they  may  be  got  at  by  the  men  on  the  topmast-stays  and  back- 
stays; consequently  the  masts  must  be  adrift,  are  likely  to  be 
daubed  over  with  blacking,  and  if  it  should  come  on  to  blow  fresh, 
so  as  to  render  it  necessary  to  get  the  topgallant-masts  on  deck, 
much  injury  must  result  to  the  blacking. 

The  topsail  and  lower  lifts  should  be  blackened  first,  the  men 
having  to  stand  on  the  yards  to  do  them. 

Previous  to  commencing,  the  decks  should  be  well  sanded,  and 
the  paint-work  and  head  covered  with  old  canvass.  The  quarter- 
tackle  should  be  clapped  on  one  side  of  the  main-yard,  and  also 
a  burton  hooked,  ready  for  clearing  boats. 

The  finer  and  warmer  the  day,  the  better — the  blacking  will 
lay  on  so  much  the  smoother  and  thinner ;  but  commencement 
should  be  delayed  until  the  dew  is  well  dried  off.  A  dry  calm 
day  is  the  best ;  for  the  blacking  will  not  take  effect,  unless  the 
surface  it  is  laid  upon  be  dry. 


237.— STATIONING  THE  CREW. 

In  dividing  the  crew  into  watches,  care  should  be  taken  that 
the  physical  force  is  as  equally  distributed  as  possible,  and  that 
there  be  as  many  seamen,  ordinary  seamen,  boys,  and  marines, 
in  one  watch  as  in  another. 

Petty  officers  should  be  chosen  from  among  the  seamen,  and 
'hose  selected  who  have  been  long  in  the  service,  and  have 
proved  faithful.  Forecastle  men  should  be  middle-aged  seamen, 
with  a  few  ordinary  seamen  and  landsmen.  Young  active  sea- 
men should  be  selected  for  topmen,  also  a  few  ordinary  seamen, 
landsmen  and  boys.  After-guard,  a  few  elderly  seamen,  wTith 
ordinary  seamen  and  landsmen.  Waisters  are  chiefly  landsmen, 
with  a  few  ordinary  seamen;  in  single-decked  vessels,  where 
there  are  no  waisters,  more  men  should  be  stationed  on  the  fore- 
castle and  in  the  after-guard,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  the 
crew  of  the  different  classes  of  vessels.  Idlers  are  excused  from 
keeping  watch — they  are  officers'  servants,  cooks,  &c.,  &c. 

Divide  each  watch  into  first  and  second  parts,  and  appoint  a 
captain  to  each  part ;  number  the  men  belonging  to  the  fore- 
castle, having  all  the  larboard  watch  even,  as  two,  four,  six,  and 
the  starboard  odd ;  have  the  numbers  painted  on  canvass,  and 
let  each  man  sew  it  on  his  bag  and  hammock ;  having  also  for 
greater  distinction,  the  larboard  painted  red,  and  the  starboard 
black.  The  men  should  be  below  alternately,  so  that  when  one 
watch  is  below,  there  should  be  an  equal  number  of  the  other 
watch  on  deck. 
11 


'32  THE   KEDGE-ANCHOK: 

238o— STATIONING  THE   CREW  AT  QUARTERS, 


Captains  of  the  guns  should  be  chosen  from  among  the  sea 
men  who  have  been  long  accustomed  to  them,  steady,  with 
good  sight,  and  quick  motion.  The  largest  and  stoutest  men 
should  be  chosen  to  man  the  long  guns,  the  others  the  cannon  - 
ades.  The  boarders  should  be  stout  men — the  firemen  and  sail 
trimmers,  active  young  men.  Be  particular  to  station  them  at? 
near  where  they  are  accustomed  to  do  their  duty  as  possible,  in 
order  to  prevent  confusion.  Let  alt  the  first  part  of  the  gun'u 
crew  be  in  one  watch,  and  the  second  part  in  the  other,  so  that 
in  the  event  of  going  to  quarters  in  the  night,  the  watch  on  deck 
can  clear  away  the  guns,  while  the  watch  below  will  clear  away 
the  hammocks. 

To  a  twelve-pounder  cannonade  are  stationed  four  men  and 
one  boy.  All  the  men  stationed  at  the  long  guns  of  a  double- 
decked  ship,  should  be  armed  with  cutlasses,  and  called  "board- 
ers"— the  first  of  the  gun's  crew  to  be  called  second  boarders,  and 
vice,  versa.  They  are  only  to  be  called  on  when  required  to 
"board,"  or  in  a  case  of  great  emergency  to  "repel  boarders,"  and 
then  every  man  will  repair  to  the  upper-deck,  except  the  firemen, 
quarter-gunners,  and  powder  boys,  who  will  remain  below  to  pro- 
tect the  ports,  or  to  assist  in  extinguishing  a  fire. 

All  the  men  stationed  at  the  cannonades  should  be  boarders 
and  sail-trimmers.  As  boarders,  the  first  part  should  be  armed 
with  pikes;  the  second  part  with  small-arms,  who  are  to  repel  the 
boarders,  but  not  to  quit  the  ship. 

In  a  single-decked  ship,  all  the  men  stationed  are  boarders ; 
the  first  part  to  be  armed  with  cutlasses,  and  the  second  with 
pikes. 

The  battery  being  manned,  distribute  the  rest  of  the  crew  as 
follows: — have  a  quarter-master  at  the  signals,  when  in  a  squad- 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  133 

ion — topmen  and  marines  in  the  tops,  to  repair  damages,  and 
act  as  small-arm-men — a  quarter-master  and  two  men  at  the  re- 
lieving tackles — men  stationed  at  the  passages,  to  pass  full  and 
empty  boxes;  also  others  at  the  shot-lockers.  Mastmen  to  see 
the  rigging  clear — cook,  and  armorer  at  the  galley — the  carpen- 
ter and  his  mates  at  the  pumps  and  wings — the  master-at-arms, 
and  ship's  corporal  in  the  light-room — the  gunner,  his  mates, 
quarter-gunners,  and  cooper,  in  the  magazine,  and  the  surgeon 
and  assistants  in  the  cock-pit. 


239.— STATIONING  THE  CREW  FOR  MOORING  AND 
UNMOORING. 

In  stationing  the  men,  place  the  same  number  of  men,  of  each 
watch,  to  perform  a  piece  of  duty.  When  in  a  squadron,  have 
quarter-masters  at  the  signals,  and  also  in  the  chains — men  at 
the  wheel— quarter-gunners  to  overhaul  the  fish,  and  grapple  the 
buoys — men  to  overhaul  and  hook  the  cat,  and  attend  the  back- 
ropes  ;  also  others  at  the  mast,  to  see  the  rigging  clear.  Boat- 
swain's mates  in  the  gangways ;  carpenter's  mates  to  ship  and 
unship  the  capstan  bars,  and  attend  the  stanchions,  with  the 
music  at  the  capstan — some  fore-topmen  to  put  on  nippers,  or  sel- 
vagees,  some  main-topmen  to  take  them  off,  and  boys  to  carry 
them  forward.  Hands  to  rouse  up  and  veer  away  the  cable,  to 
attend  the  stoppers,  and  light  forward  the  messenger.  The  yeo- 
man in  the  store-room — master-at-arms,  and  ship's  corporal  on 
I  he  berth-deck,  and  cook  at  the  galley — tierces  in  each  tier,  or 
«,hain-locker,  and  the  remainder  of  the  men  at  the  capstan. 


2 4O.— LOOSING  AND  FURLING. 

Take  the  same  number  of  men  from  each  wratch,  and  station 
them  at  the  same  rope,  &c.  The  topmen  are  to  man  their  re- 
spective yards — hands  are  to  attend  the  boom-jiggers  and  tricing- 
lines — forecastle  men  to  attend  head-sails,  trysail  and  foresail — 
main-yard  men  to  look  out  for  the  main-sail — after-guard,  for  the 
spanker  and  main-trysail — for  the  main-topmast  staysail,  the 
fore-top-men — for  the  main-staysail,  the  gunner's  crew — hand 
stationed  to  sheet  home,  and  hoist  the  topsails,  and  when  coming 
to  an  anchor,  the  same  men  to  man  the  clew-lines,  bunt-lines, 
and  weather-braces ;  and  when  loosing  sails  to  dry,  to  man  bow- 


]34  THE   KEUGE- ANCHOR; 

lines,  or  buntlines.     In  furling,  the  captains  are  to  be  in  the  bunt, 
in  reefing,  at  the  earings. 


241.— STATIONING  THE  CREW  FOR  TACKING  AND 
VEERING. 

Station  the  men  from  the  "watch  bill" — have  hands  at  the 
fib-boom  end,  to  overhaul  the  jib-brails,  and  light  over  flying-jib 
sheets.  On  the  bowsprit  end  to  light  over  jib-pendants — hands 
on  the  bumkins,  and  in  the  chains,  to  overhaul  tacks  and  sheets, 
and  backstay-falls.  On  deck,  at  the  wheel,  spritsail-braces,  jib- 
sheets,  jib-brails,  braces,  bow-lines,  clew-garnets,  tacks  and  sheets, 
backstay-falls,  lifts,  trusses,  spanker-sheets,  guys,  vangs,  and  top- 
ping-lifts. Aloft,  to  overhaul  lifts  and  trusses — attend  outriggers, 
and  bear  the  backstays  abaft  and  abreast — the  mast-men  to  see 
the  rigging  clear,  &c.,  &c. 

For  reefing. — The  men  are  stationed  as  in  furling,  with  the 
exception  of  the  captains,  who  are  stationed  at  the  earings. 
When  the  yards  are  down,  the  men  from  the  clew-lines  and 
bunt-lines  will  haul  out  the  reef-tackles. 


242.— GETTING  READY  TO  BEND  SAILS. 

It  is  customary  to  bend  the  light  sails  first,  such  as  jibs,  span- 
kers,  and  trysails.  Overhaul  the  jib  and  flying-jib  stay,  and  hal- 
liards, in  on  the  forecastle.  Have  the  lashing  spliced  into  the 
sheets  ready  for  passing,  and  seizings  to  the  hanks. 

Overhaul  down  into  the  top  the  reef-tackles,  and  stop  the 
blocks  to  the  foremost  shrouds,  (or  the  end  if  single.)  Overhaul 
the  topsail-sheets  from  the  yard-arm,  and  half-hitch  them  round 
a  dead-eye,  or  foremost  futtock-plate.  Bunt-lines  into  the  top, 
and  stop  them  to  the  foremost  shroud,  above  the  topsail-yard,  or 
to  the  tye-blocks — clew-lines  into  the  top,  and  stop  them  to  the 
eye  of  a  shroud,  and  get  the  harbor-gaskets  on  the  yards.  A 
rope-yarn  stop  will  be  quite  sufficient  for  all  these  purposes. 
Both  burtons  should  be  overhauled  on  deck  before  all. 

Overhaul  down  the  leech-lines,  slab-lines,  bunt-lines  and  clew- 
garnets,  and  stop  them  so  as  to  prevent  their  flying  about. 

Take  two  selvagee-straps,  put  them  round  the  neck  of  the 
boom-irons,  and  to  them  hook  the  double-block  of  a  long  jigger; 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  135 

the  single  one  overhaul  down,  and  hook  to  a  ring  or  eye-bolt  in 
the  bulwarks,  and  the  fall  led  through  a  leading  block  a-m id- 
ships. 

Lower  down  the  gaffs — overhaul  the  brails,  and  have  seizings 
of  two-yarn  spun-yarn  ready,  to  secure  them  to  the  sails.  If 
hoops,  seizings  should  also  be  put  on  them,  writh  both  ends  rove 
through  the  bight. 

Topgallant  yards  should  be  got  out  of  the  rigging,  and  laid  on 
deck  out  of  the  way,  ready  for  bending  the  sails.  Top-burtons 
overhauled  down  forward  of  all,  for  the  topsails. 

Note. — When  the  preparations  above  stated  are  made,  it  is  in 
tended  to  bend  all  the  sails  together. 


243.— BENDING  SAILS. 

Call  all  hands  to  bend  sails — get  the  courses,  jib,  topsails,  and 
spanker,  on  deck.  Open  them  out,  and  see  that  they  are  whole 
and  complete;  with  the  bowline-bridles,  head  and  reef-earings, 
rope-bands,  reef-points,  sheet,  clew-line,  and  reef-tackle  blocks 
all  in  their  proper  places.  Bight  the  topsails  down  in  their  re- 
spective places  forward  of  the  masts,  with  the  clews  out.  Hook 
the  lower  block  of  the  burton  to  the  slings  passed  round  the 
centre  of  the  sail,  and  mouse  the  hook — reeve  the  fall  through  a 
snatch-block  or  leader,  and  keep  the  sail  clear  of  the  top  as  it 
goes  up. 

Overhaul  the  courses  athwart  the  deck,  shackle  on  the  sheet, 
and  also  the  tack,  and  clew-garnet  blocks — reeve  and  bend  the 
gear — stop  the  head  of  the  sail  to  the  bunt-lines,  use  the  clew- 
jiggers  for  yard-ropes,  hooking  to  the  first  reef-cringle,  and  stop 
the  head  earings  to  the  block. 

The  end  of  the  jib-stay  having  been  brought  in  on  the  fore- 
castle, reeve  in  the  hanks,  and  stop  the  luff  of  the  jib — hook  on 
the  halliards — reeve  the  downhauls — fit  the  brail-block  and  reeve 
the  brails — hook  on  the  sheet-blocks,  or  pendants,  and  reeve  the 
sheets. 

Lower  the  spanker-gaff—pass  the  throat  and  peak-earings,  and 
lace  the  head  to  the  gaff — seize  on  the  brails,  and  reeve  them 
and  the  outhauler.  All  being  ready, 

To  man  the  gear. — First,  man  the  top-burtons  and  sway  the 
topsails  clear  of  the  deck — man  the  jib-halliards  and  downhaul — 
yard-ropes,  clew-garnets,  clew-lines,  bunt-lines,  reef-tackles,  and 
gaff-halliards :  at  the  word  run  out  the  jib,  reeve  and  set  up  the 
stay,  and  seize  the  tack.  Sway  the  topsails  and  courses  up  to 
the  yards,  where  some  hands  are  ready  to  receive  them.  Bend 


136  THE  KEDGE  ANCHOR; 

the  gear  and  haul  out;  then  take  a  turn  with  the  earings—  lidt 
down  the  heads  and  pass  the  earings  exactly ;  make  fast  the  rope- 
bands,  fit  the  leech-line  block  of  the  courses — seize  on  and  reeve 
the  leech  line.  In  the  mean-time  some  hands  are  employed  in 
seizing  on  the  hoops  of  the  trysails  and  spanker,  as  they  go 
aloft.  After  the  sails  are  all  bent,  it  would  be  well  to  let  them 
fall,  to  see  that  all  the  gear  is  bent  clear,  if  so,  clew  up  and  furl 
the  courses  and  topsails,  and  stow  the  jib,  spanker  and  trysails. 

The  topgallant-sails,  royals,  and  studding-sails  are  bent  on 
deck. 

Send  the  staysails  into  the  tops,  fit  the  jackstays  and  tricing- 
line  blocks,  seize  the  head  of  the  luff;  reeve  the  halliards,  down- 
hauls,  and  brails,  bend  the  tacks  and  sheets ;  stow  the  staysails 
and  haul  all  taut. 

Note. — The  staysails  are  not  all  allowed  by  the  new  Book  of 
Allowances. 


244.— BENDING  SMALL   SAILS. 

By  small  sails  are  meant  topgallant-sails,  royals,  flying-jib, 
ytudding-sails  and  staysails. 

It  is  only  in  ships  in  good  order  where  the  men  go  through  this 
manoeuvre  with  smartness  and  method,  after  being  exercised, 
and  having  become  familiar  with  the  ship  and  their  stations. 

First,  all  the  yards,  topgallant,  royal,  and  studding-sail,  should 
be  got  out  of  the  rigging,  and  down  on  deck  at  the  same  time. 
Next,  a  proportion  of  hands  should  be  sent  to  each  sail,  and  all 
bent  together,  including  flying-jib  and  staysails. 

When  the  topgallant-sails,  royals,  and  studding-sails,  are  all 
bent,  they  should  be  swayed  into  the  rigging  all  together,  and 
not  one  after  another. 

If  the  topgallant-yards  happen  to  be  across,  the  best  plan,  if 
circumstances  will  permit,  is  to  bend  all  the  other  small  sails 
iirst,  except  the  flying-jib,  and  then  to  wait  until  the  yards  are 
sent  dowrn  at  sunset,  to  bend  topgallant-sails  and  flying-jib. 

Topgallant  sails  ought  not  to  be  bent  while  the  yards  are 
across,  because  the  earings  must  then  be  hauled  out,  and  passed 
over  the  lifts  and  braces,  which  precludes  the  possibility  of  un- 
rigging the  yard  afterwards,  without  unbending  the  sail.  Some- 
times one  of  the  two  sets  of  topgallant-yards  are  appropriated  in 
harbor  to  exercise,  (sending  up  and  down)  while  the  other  is  kept 
below,  with  the  sail  bent,  ready  for  crossing. 


(JK   YOUISG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  137 

In  bending  topgallant-sails,  the  earings  are  passed  the  same  as 
the  topsail,  and  the  sail  seized  to  the  jackstay,  the  yard-rope  bent, 
the  sails  furled,  and  the  yard  got  into  the  lower  rigging.  In 
furling,  bring  the  leeches  taut  along  the  yard,  and  keep  the  clews 
in  the  bunt,  then  roll  the  sail  up  from  the  yard-arm,  and  pass  the 
gaskets.  Put  the  grommet  over  the  yard-arm,  man  the  yard- 
rope  and  sway  the  yard  up  and  down ;  put  the  lower  yard-arm 
into  the  snotter,  over  the  foremost  dead-eye;  secure  the  upper 
yard-arm  with  a  lanyard  spliced  round  the  shroud  for  the  pur 
pose ;  it  is  called  a  stop.  The  lizard  should  be  singled,  ready  for 
going  aloft,  by  reeving  it  once  through  the  thimble  on  the  yard- 
arm,  and  half-hitch  round  the  yard-rope  with  the  bight. 

Trysails  and  storm-staysails  should  be  bent  at  this  time,  if 
they  are  to  be  bent  at  all  before  leaving  harbor. 

Note. — Good  rope-yarns  answer  very  well  for  robins  for  topgal 
lant-sails  and  royals.  You  are  never  at  a  loss  for  them  in  bend- 
ing, and  in  unbending  they  are  easily  cut. 


245.— BENDING  A  SPANKER. 

Overhaul  the  brails  well,  and  pass  the  sail  through  their 
bights.  Haul  the  earing  in  the  jaws  out  first;  then  the  outer 
one.  Splice  the  lacing  into  the  outer  eyelet-hole,  lacing,  and 
secure  the  lacing  in  the  jaws.  Bring  the  after-leech  taut,  along 
the  gaff,  and  within  a  few  inches  of  the  blocks  ;  mark  the  place 
for  the  throat-brails,  also  for  the  peak,  opposite  their  respective 
cheeks  on  the  gaff,  and  seize  the  brails  to  the  leech-rope,  by  pass- 
ing the  seizing  between  the  strands  and  round  the  brails.  Eye 
let-holes,  worked  close  to  the  leech-rope,  are  far  preferable  for  seiz 
ing  the  brails  to. 

The  throat-earing  is  generally  passed  through  an  eye-bolt  in 
the  lower  part  of  the  jaws ;  but  this  never  brings  the  sail  close  to 
the  mast,  and  looks  very  bad.  In  preference,  I  would  recommend 
having  a  score  cut  under  the  leather  in  the  jaws,  and  the  earing 
passed  from  the  cringle  through  this  score,  and  an  eye-bolt  on 
the  upper  side  of  the  jaws,  back  through  the  cringle,  and  so  on, 
until  sufficient  turns  are  taken  to  secure  the  sail.  Large  staples 
also  are  fitted  to  the  jaws  for  the  purpose,  and  keys  on  top,  which 
answer  better,  and  are  more  secure ;  also  bending  battens,  instead 
of  lacing  round  the  gaff. 

The  outer  earing  is  passed  round  a  cleat  on  the  upper  side  of 
the  gaff,  for  the  purpose.  Take  the  earing  from  the  cringle,  pass 
it  round  outside  the  cleat,  back  through  the  cringle,  and  round 
the  cleat,  until  sufficient  t  irns  are  taken  ;  then  take  several  inner 


[38  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

turns  round  the  gaff  and  cringle  ;  frap  all  the  outer  turns  togetnei 
with  the  remaining  part  of  the  earing,  to  bring  the  parts  close^ 
and  prevent  any  chance  of  their  slipping  over  the  cleat ;  take  two 
half-hitches,  expend,  and  seize  the  end. 

To  haul  out  this  earing,  and  stretch  the  head  of  the  sail  well, 
use  a  small  jigger ;  secure  the  double  block  to  an  eye-bolt  in  the 
end  of  the  gaff,  pass  three  turns  of  the  earing,  cat's-paw  the  end, 
to  which  hook  the  other  block,  and  pull  the  earing  well  out.  I 
have  frequently  seen  only  one  earing  used  ;  but  would  prefer  two. 
as  all  inner  turns,  when  much  strain  is  on  them,  should  have  a 
separate  earing.  If  a  new  sail,  and  requires  much  stretching,  it 
is  hauled  well  out  before  passing  the  earing,  by  hooking  the  in- 
ner block  of  the  jigger  to  the  cringle.  Man  the  throat  and  peak- 
halliards,  hoist  the  sail  up  gradually,  seize  the  hoops,  and  reeve 
the  lacing. 

Note. — Trysails  are  bent  in  the  same  manner.  Some  fit  them 
to  haul  in  and  out  on  the  gaff,  with  hoops. 


246.— FITTING  SEA-GASKETS. 

Gaskets  are  made  with  foxes,  or  small  spun-yarn,  and  platted, 
like  making  sennit.  The  spun-yarn  is  middled  over  the  bolt, 
and  platted  together,  the  bight  forming  the  eye  ;  sometimes  a 
piece  is  platted  for  the  eye,  then  all  worked  together;  if  not. 
the  eye  is  served  over  afterwards.  Sea-gaskets  are  long  enough  to 
have  only  two  on  each  yard-arm,  and  to  furl  the  sail  over  booms 
and  all,  when  close-reefed,  as  there  will  be  no  more  sail  on  the 
yard-arms  than  at  any  other  time.  They  are  secured  round  the 
jackstay,  by  reeving  the  end  through  the  eye  ;  sometimes  round 
the  yard. 


247. -FITTING   HARBOR-GASKETS. 

In  making,  the  eye  is  left  large  enough  to  take  a  small  thim- 
ble, then  platted  broader  in  the  centre,  and  tapered  to  a  small 
end.  The  broad  part  should  be  long  enough  to  make  the  sail 
in  when  furled  with  two  reefs.  They  may  be  (to  look  well)  about 
two-and-a-half  inches  wide,  but  this  is  quite  a  matter  of  taste. 
When  put  on  the  yard,  the  thimble  is  put  underneath  the  jack 
stay  from  forward,  and  secured  to  it  by  a  seizing  passed  round  the 
neck  of  the  gasket  and  jackstay,  close  to  the  thimble,  and  when 
the  sail  is  ready  for  their  being  passed,  it  is  taken  up  and  rove 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  139 

through  the  thimble,  and  the  sail  tossed  well  up ;  the  end  then 
shoved  underneath  between  the  sail  and  gasket,  once  or  twice. 
These  always  look  better  than  any  other,  are  easier  passed  and 
secured,  and  keep  the  sail  well  up.     There  is  generally  one  har 
bor-gasket  to  every  other  seam. 


248.— BUNT-GASKETS. 

These  are  always,  as  to  fitting,  a  matter  of  taste,  but  at  present 
they  are  generally  made  of  wove  mat,  two  or  three  inches  wide, 
with  the  two  legs  crossed,  and  an  eye  in  each  end.  I  have  seen 
them  made  of  rope,  in  the  following  manner : — Take  the  dis- 
tance between  the  two  quarter  blocks,  and  measure  it  off  on  deck : 
drive  a  nail  slightly  into  the  deck  at  each  end ;  then  measure 
from  the  centre  the  height  the  bunt  is  intended  to  be,  and  there 
drive  another  nail.  Take  a  piece  of  rope,  from  two  and  a  half  to 
three-inch,  and  measure  off  sufficient  to  go  over  these  nails,  form- 
ing a  triangle ;  splice  both  ends  together,  and  seize  a  thimble  in 
each  corner ;  put  these  thimbles  over  the  nails  again,  and  fill 
the  space  in  diamonds  or  squares,  according  to  fancy.  The 
thimbles  in  each  end  are  secured  by  the  quarter-blocks  to  the  jack- 
stay,  and  also  in  the  centre.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  thim- 
bles in  each  end,  as  an  eye  will  answer  every  purpose.  A  long 
sennit-gasket  is  middled  and  seized  by  the  upper  thimble;  it 
should  be  sufficiently  long  to  go  round  the  mast,  when  the  gas- 
ket is  boused  up,  to  secure  it  and  the  bunt  well  into  the  mast. 


249.— HAMMOCK  GIRTLINES. 

Whips  are  rove  at  the  yard-arms.  If  rope  is  not  used  on  purpose 
for  girtlines,  the  studding-sail  halliards  will  answer ;  they  are 
rove  as  follows : — A  tail  block  is  put  on  each  side  of  the  jib-boom 
end,  and  another  on  the  spanker-boom.  Overhaul  down  the 
whips,  and  bend  them  round  the  girtlines  with  a  bowline  knot, 
allowing  room  for  their  rendering  through.  Belay  the  foremost 
ends  of  the  girtlines  and  trice  up ;  haul  upon  the  after-part,  and  get 
all  taut.  A  man  lays  out  on  each  yard-arm,  and  marks  the  girt- 
line  with  rope-yarns  where  the  tricing  line,  or  a  whip,  should  be 
bent ;  then  lower  away,  cast  off  the  bowline  knot,  and  bend  the 
tricing  lines  round  the  girtlines  with  a  rolling  hitch. 

The  whips  are  led  from  the  lower  yards  to  the  lower  caps, 
through  blocks  hooked  to  the  bolts,  aiid  on  deck.  The  lower 


L4(J  Ttte  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

end  of  the  tricing-line  is  often  bent  to  the  girt-line  as  an  inhau. 
or  downhaul ;  but  it  is  best  to  have  them  separate,  as  it  prevents 
walking  the  hammocks  up,  and  laying  across  the  deck;  and 
there  are  plenty  of  other  ropes'  ends  w  lich  will  answer  the 
same  purpose. 

When  one  girt-line  of  a  side  is  not  enough,  others  are  rove  in- 
side in  the  same  manner.  The  generality  of  ships  reeve  them 
inside  of  the  lower  rigging,  as  they  are  much  easier  got  down, 
and  the  hammocks  are  not  so  likely  to  get  dirty,  or  overboard. 


250.— STOPPING  ON  HAMMOCKS. 

Every  man  should  be  obliged  to  have  three  knittle-stops  at  the 
head,  and  two  at  the  foot  of  his  hammock.  When  stopping  on. 
they  should  overlay  at  each  side  about  two  or  three  inches,  and 
be  stopped  together  at  the  foot — numbers  up  and  in. 

The  forecastle-men  should  stop  their  hammocks  on  forward, 
next  foretop-men,  next  maintop-men,  next  mizentop-men,  next 
after-guard,  idlers,  and  boys.  Boatswain's  mates  abreast  of  each 
hatchway. 


251.— FUELING  OR  STOWING  THE  BUNT  OF  A 

SAIL. 

When  the  sail  is  nearly  rolled  up,  hook  the  bunt-jigger,  bouse 
it  well  up,  lower  the  buntlines,  and  shove  the  sail  well  into  the 
skin,  taking  pains  to  keep  the  bunt  square  ;  pass  and  secure  the 
bunt-gasket — take  off  the  jigger — lower  and  square  the  studding- 
sail  booms,  and  pass  the  heel-lashings. 


252.— FURLING  COURSES. 

The  leeches  are  handed  in  along  the  yard,  then  the  sail  rolled 
up  snug,  with  the  ends  of  the  points  passed  in  towards  the  bunt, 
to  give  the  sail  a  gradual  increase  in  that  direction.  Pass  the 
gaskets,  lower  the  booms,  and,  if  required,  stop  up  the  gear. 

Bowlines  are  stopped  to  the  slings  close  down,  and  hauled  taui 
on  the  forecastle. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  141 

The  bowline-bridles  of  all  sails,  in  furling,  are  laid  with  the 
toggle  towards  the  bunt,  and  bridles  taut  along  the  yard. 

When  a  sail  is  neatly  furled,  it  appears  neither  above  nor  be- 
low the  yard — earings  well  slewed  up — sail  smooth  under  the  gas- 
kets, bunt  square,  and  a  taut  skin.  The  heels  of  the  booms 
should  be  square,  and  every  thing  necessary  completed,  previous 
o  squaring  the  yards. 


253.— MAKING  UP  SAILS. 

In  making  up  a  course,  stretch  the  head  of  the  sail  well  taut 
along  the  deck  or  loft ;  bring  up  to  the  head  the  belly-band,  then 
the  foot,  leaving  the  clew-blocks  out  at  each  end  ;  also  the  bow- 
line-bridles, and  roll  taut  up  ;  pass  the  head-earing  round  the 
sail  close  inside  the  bolt-rope,  and  put  a  stop  of  good  spun-yarn 
to  every  seam.  The  reef  earings  are  made  up  in  the  sail. 

In  making  up  a  topsail,  stretch  the  head  of  the  sail  taut  along . 
':ring  the  second  reef  up  to  the  head,  and  lay  all  the  points  and 
earings  snugly  along  ;  then  bring  up  the  belly-band,  and  then  thcj 
foot.  The  clew-blocks,  bowline-bridles,  reef-tackles,  and  toggles 
or  span,  should  be  left  out,  so  that  when  the  sail  is  sent  aloft  for 
bending,  the  sheets  can  be  rove,  reef- tackles  and  bowlines  toggled, 
without  loosing  the  sail,  which  will  be  found  of  great  advantage 
when  blowing  fresh.  Roll  well  up,  stop  with  spun-yarn  at  each 
seam,  and  expend  the  head-earings  round  the  ends  of  the  sail. 

Topgallant-sails  are  made  up  with  the  clews  out,  and  bowline- 
bridles,  (if  wished,)  but  they  are  always  bent  to  the  yards  on  deck  ; 
so  the  neater,  they  can  be  made  up  the  better. 

Note. — The  reef-earings  of  the  topsails  should  be  secured  to 
the  cringles,  before  rolling  up ;  bowline-hitch  the  end  of  the  first 
reef-earing  to  the  head,  second  to  the  first,  third  to  the  second,  and 
fourth  to  the  third  reef  cringles ;  as  there  is  sometimes  much 
trouble  in  getting  hold  of  an  earing  when  it  is  not  secured  as  above. 

All  spare  sails  should  be  tallied,  before  being  stowed  in  the  sail- 
room,  as  it  will  prevent  all  mistakes ;  but  if  a  sail  is  properly 
stowed,  and  the  master  and  sailmaker  take  a  list  when  they  ar« 
stowing,  there  never  can  be  any  difficulty  in  finding  what  ma] 
be  wanted. 

Royals  are  made  up  the  same  as  topgallant-sails. 


|42  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


254.— TO  MAKE  UP  A  TOPMAST  STUDDING-SAIL. 

Stretch  the  sail  taut  along,  and  overhaul  the  downhaul  through 
the  thimble  and  block,  and  bight  it  along  the  whole  length  of  the 
leech.  Then  roll  up  towards  the  inner  leech,  lay  the  sheets 
along  the  whole  length  of  the  sail,  roll  up  over  all,  and  stop  the 
sail  well  up  with  spun-yarn  or  foxes.  The  earings  are  expended 
round  the  head  of  the  sail  when  bent  to  the  yard. 

Note. — The  topgallant  studding-sail  is  also  made  up  in  the  same 
manner. 


255.— FURLING  FORE  AND  AFT  SAILS,  (WITH 
CLOTHS  OR  COVERS.) 

The  jib  is  hauled  close  down,  and  the  sea-gasket  passed  round 
it  The  cloth  is  then  placed  over,  and  the  stops  tied.  Eyelet- 
holes  are  made  in  each  edge  for  the  stops.  Jib-sheets  and  hal- 
liards stopped,  and  hauled  taut. 

Furling  Spanker. — It  is  also  furled  best  with  a  cover  ;  it  can 
be  furled  in  the  two  after  cloths,  the  same  as  a  jib,  but  it  never 
looks  so  well,  takes  time,  and  in  most  instances  has  to  be  loosed 
two  or  three  times  before  it  gives  satisfaction. 

In  furling  with  a  cover,  the  sail  is  brailed  close  up,  and  the 
cover  stopped  round,  commencing  from  the  end  of  the  gaff,  and 
working  in  to  the  mast,  and  down  on  deck. 

Trysails  are  stowed  in  the  same  manner  as  spankers. 

The  fore-topmast  staysail  is  stowed  as  a  jib,  in  the  netting.* 

Note. — Stowing  fore  and  aft  sails  requires  more  handy-work 
than  seamanship,  the  principal  thing  being  to  furl  them  in  the 
smallest  compass,  and  in  the  after  cloths,  as  it  brings  the  seams 
up  and  down.  I  have  seen  staysails  admired  for  their  neatness 
from  the  deck,  when  the  greater  part  of  the  sails  were  lying 
loose  in  the  top.  This  should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible, 
as  something  should  be  sacrificed  in  appearance,  to  preserve  a 
sail  from  injury.  Taking  a  little  trouble  will  get  all  the  sail  in 
the  skin ;  and  although  it  may  be  larger,  it  can  be  made  to  look 
neat. 

Jibs  require  more  pains  laken  in  stowing,  than  any  of  the  other 
fore  and  aft  sails.  There  is  no  necessity  of  stowing  them  in 
their  own  cloths,  when  furling  cloths  are  allowed.  (See  allowance). 


*  Canvass  bottoms  are  used  instead  of  nettings,  for  staysails 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  143 


256.— REEFING  COURSES  TO  JACKSTAYS. 

When  this  plan  is  adopted  there  is  only  one  point  requisite, 
and  that  on  the  fore  side  of  the  sail;  some  use  two,  hut  it  is  un- 
necessary. 

Reeve  the  point  through  the  eyelet-hole  from  the  after  side, 
the  points  being  made  with  eyes.  Through  the  eyes  reeve  a 
small  sized  rope ;  this  is  called  the  jack-line.  Between  every 
four  eyelet-holes,  stitch  the  rope  well  to  the  sail,  on  each  yard- 
arm,  leaving  three  points  out.  Take  a  piece  of  small  rope,  splice 
one  end  to  the  eyelet-hole  in  the  head  of  the  sail,  reeve  it  through 
that  left  in  the  reef,  and  splice  the  other  end  into  the  same  eye 
let  hole  in  the  head,  leaving  about  two  feet  slack.  This  will  be 
found  of  much  use  in  gathering  the  sail  up  for  reefing — it  is 
called  a  grab-rope,  or  reef-line. 


257 .— REEF-E  ARINGS 

Are  fitted  the  same  as  the  head — an  eyelet-hole  is  worked  be- 
low the  cringle,  large  enough  to  take  the  earing;  through  this 
put  the  earing,  reeve  the  end  through  the  long-eye,  and  haul  it 
taut  through.  The  earings  are  sometimes  put  in  the  cringles, 
but  the  cringle  cannot  be  so  well  hauled  up  on  the  yard,  and 
consequently  will  not  be  so  well  secured  for  carrying  sail ;  and  it 
not  only  puts  more  strain  on  the  yard-arm  points,  but  also  injures 
the  sail.  They  are  also  fitted  on  the  bight,  and  passed  on  both 
ends ;  one  end  for  the  outer  turns,  and  the  other  the  inner  turns. 

To  pass  a  reef-earing. — For  the  first,  second,  and  third  reef, 
take  it  from  the  sail,  on  the  foreside  of  the  yard,  round  the  cleat 
for  the  purpose,  through  the  cringle,  round  the  yard  and  through 
the  cringle,  until  three  or  four  outer  turns  are  passed ;  then  reeve 
the  bight  through  the  cringle  from  aft  forward — take  a  round 
turn  in  the  cringle ;  then  take  the  end  from  the  latter  under  the 
yard  up  abaft  over,  and  through  the  bight ;  then  back  over  the 
yard  on  the  foreside,  through  the  cringle,  from  underneath  the 
yard ;  slew  the  cringle  well  up,  and  leech  off  the  sail,  and  pass 
sufficient  turns  to  secure ;  then  expend  the  end  round  the  yard 
and  half-hitch  round  all,  or  a  clove-hitch  to  the  lift. 

A  close  reef-earing  is  passed  the  same  way,  but  hauled  out  on 
the  after  side  of  the  yard.  Being  hauled  out  abaft,  it  covers  all 
the  other  reefs,  and  there  being  so  much  sail  on  the  fore-side,  it 
would  never  keep  up. 


[44  THE  KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

In  passing  the  outer  turns  for  each  reef,  take  two  for  the  first; 
three  for  the  second  and  third,  and  four  for  the  fourth.  For  the 
inner  turns,  expend  the  earing,  except  your  earings  are  fitted  on 
the  bight. 


258.— BENDING   STUDDING-SAILS. 

All  are  bent  to  the  yard  alike,  and  the  same  precautions  used 
as  in  other  sails,  keeping  the  rope  next  the  yard.  The  earings 
are  rove  through  the  holes  in  the  yard-arms,  and  cringle  in  the 
head  of  the  sails ;  two  or  three  outer  turns  are  taken,  and  the 
earing  nearly  expended  in  inner  turns,  then  frap  the  outer  turns 
together  with  the  end,  and  half-hitch,  if  the  sail  is  laced  to  the 
yard — the  lacing  is  spliced  into  one  eyelet-hole,  rove  through  the 
other,  and  passed  round  the  yard. 

They  are  sometimes  bent  by  half-hitching  the  lacing,  which 
plan  keeps  the  sail  up,  and  much  closer  to  the  yard.  A  round 
turn  is  also  used,  by  being  passed  round  the  yard-arm  anil 
through  the  eyelet-hole  twice,  and  from  the  latter  through  the 
next  eyelet-hole,  round  the  yard.  They  are  then  made  up — tha 
topmast  studding-sail  to  the  foremost  shrouds  of  fore  and  main 
rigging ;  topgallant,  in  foremost  part  of  the  topmast  rigging  ;  and 
lower,  on  the  booms.  The  topmast  studding-sail  is  also  some- 
times kept  on  the  booms,  and  tarpaulin  covers  fitted  for  them. 

These  sails  are  sometimes  bent  with  long  rope-bands,  and  un- 
bent when  taken  in  and  stowed  away,  if  dry. 

In  making  up  a 
topmast  studding- 
sail,  when  bent, 
overhaul  the  down- 
haul  the  length  of 
the  luff  or  outer 
leech ;  then  take 
the  foot  up  to  the 
yard,  and  place  the 
tack  block  out. 
Bight  the  down- 
haul  along  the 
yard,  also  the 
sheets ;  roll  the 
sail  snugly  up,  and 
stop  it  with  yarn^. 
Lower  studding- 
sails  are  bent  and 

made  up  in  the  same  manner  as  topmast  studding-sails,  with  the 
sheet  in. 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  145 

1  have  seen  these  sails  when  placed  in  the  rigging  ready  foi 
letting,  with  the  sheets  and  down  haul  left  out  and  stopped  to  the 
yards ;  the  tack  stopped  from  the  lower  yard,  up  and  down  the 
foremost  shroud  and  bent  to  the  sail.  This  was  done  with  the 
idea  that  the  sail  could  be  set  much  quicker;  but  it  was  found 
that  the  sail  on  the  opposite  side  (which  was  set  in  the  general 
way),  was  set  with  less  trouble,  and  in  less  time.  There  will  be 
plenty  of  time  to  bend  the  tack  and  halliards  (when  the  order  is 
given  to  get  ready),  while  getting  burtons  up,  jiggers  on  topsail- 
lift,  weather-braces  taut,  and  rigging  the  booms  out. 

Note. — The  topgallant  studding-sail  tack  is  generally  kept 
bent,  and  slacked  when  bracing  the  yards  up. 

It  has  frequently  occurred  to  me,  when  I  have  heard  the  order 
from  the  quarter-deck,  in  the  event  of  setting  studding-sails,  "  to 
rig  out  and  hoist  away;"  how  can  it  be  possible  to  rig  out  the 
fore-topmast  studding-sail  booms,  when  probably  there  may  be 
fifty  men  clapped  on  the  lower  studding-sail  halliards,  hauling 
the  booms  in,  and  seldom  more  than  six  or  eight  men  at  the 
most,  on  the  in-and-out  jigger,  trying  to  get  the  boom  out. 

I  should  recommend  to  rig-out  and  secure  first,  then  hoist 
a\vay. 


259.— PREPARATIONS  FOR  LEAVING  THE  WHARF 
AND  HAULING  OUT  IN  THE  STREAM. 

To  haul  off  and  moor  ship. — Before  hauling  off,  all  the  spare 
spars  should  be  hoisted  in  and  secured,  boat's  chocks  placed,  all 
the  stores,  provisions,  and  water  got  on  board  ;  it  would  be  also 
well  to  see  that  there  is  a  sufficient  quantity  of  brooms,  bath- 
brick  for  cleaning  bright-work,  lime  and  size  for  whitewash, 
and  everything  that  is  allowed  and  requisite  for  the  ship.  The 
complement  of  men  from  the  receiving  ship  should  be  got  on 
iioard,  and  the  boats  provided  with  crews,  oars,  and  sails.  When 
everything  necessary  is  completed,  make  preparations  for  hauling 
ofT.  Get  up  kedges  and  hawsers  ready  for  instant  service  ;  have 
the  ends  of  the  hawsers  pointed  up  each  hatchway,  ready  for 
handing  out  if  wanted.  Run  out  a  kedge,  and  drop  it  where  the 
first,  or  weather-anchor  is  to  be  planted  ;  have  lines  from  the 
ship  to  the  shore — single  the  fasts — hang  over  fenders  and  out- 
riggers— man  the  hawser,  cast  off  the  fasts,  and  warp  off;  check- 
ing her  as  may  be  necessary  by  the  lines.  When  warped  out  to 
the  kedge,  run  it  up  to  the  bows,  and  let  go  the  weather  anchor  ; 
veer  as  fast  as  she  will  take  it,  assisting  her  in  going  astern  by 
the  mizen-topsail,  if  necessary.  If  to  shoot  her  to  either  side,  use 
the  helm,  jib,  or  spanker,  and  in  case  there  is  no  wind,  use  kedges 
and  hawsers. 

12 


[46  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR  ; 

When  a  double  scope  is  out,  stopper  the  cable,  and  let  go  the 
second  anchor — furl  the  mizen-topsail — bring-to  on  the  weather 
cable,  and  heave  in  to  the  moorings ;  moor  a  little  taut,  to  allow 
for  veering.  If  a  hemp-cable,  clap  on  the  service,  and  veer  to 
the  hawse-hole. 


260.— CARRYING  OUT  AN  ANCHOR  WITH  A  BOAT. 

Hang  the  anchor  to  the  stern  of  the  boat  by  good  stoppers,  and 
have  the  buoy  and  buoy-rope  attached  to  it ;  pass  the  end  of  the 
cable  or  hawser  out  through  the  hawse-hole,  and  coil  away  enough 
of  it  in  the  bows  of  the  boat,  to  reach  the  bottom.  Now  capsize 
the  coil  in  the  stern  sheets,  and  then  the  end  will  be  uppermost ; 
bend  on  to  the  anchor.  There  should  also  be  a  sufficient  length 
of  the  hawser  coiled  away  in  the  boat  to  reach  the  place  destined 
for  the  anchor.  When  in  the  right  place,  heave  over  the  buoy, 
and  see  that  the  buoy-rope  is  clear — stand  clear  of  the  cable,  and 
slip  the  stoppers.  In  case  of  making  a  guess-warp,  vice  versa. 


261.— MARKING  THE  LEAD-LINE. 

At  two  fathoms,  two  strips  of  leather ;  at  three  fathoms,  three 
strips  of  leather ;  at  five  fathoms,  a  white  rag ;  at  seven  fathoms, 
a  red  rag  ;  at  ten  fathoms,  a  piece  of  leather  with  a  hole  in  it  ; 
at  thirteen,  the  same  as  three ;  at  fifteen,  the  same  as  five  ;  at 
seventeen,  the  same  as  seven ;  at  twenty  fathoms,  two  knots. 

Deep-sea  lead-lines  are  marked  the  same,  as  far  as  twenty  fa 
thorns,  then  add  one  knot  for  every  ten  fathoms,  and  a  strip  of 
eather  for  every  five  fathoms. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


147 


262.— HEAVING  THE  LEAD 


A  hole  is  made  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  lead,  a  piece  of  rope  rove  through  it, 
and  both  ends  spliced  together  ;*  an  eye 
is  spliced  in  the  end  of  the  line,  put 
through  this  strap,  the  lead  shoved 
through  the  bight,  and  hauled  taut. 

Breast  ropes  are  fitted  in  the  chains, 
for  the  men  to  lean  against  when  heav- 
ing the  lead.  They  are  made  as  sword- 
mats,  tapered  at  each  end,  and  secured 
to  two  shrouds,  with  seizings  passed 
round  them,  and  through  the  eyes  in 
each. 

Heaving  the  lead  is  generally  per- 
formed by  a  man  who  stands  in  the 
main  chains  to  windward.  Having  the 
line  all  ready  to  run  out,  without  inter- 
ruption, he  holds  it  at  a  distance  of 
nearly  a  fathom  from  the  lead,  and  hav- 
ing swung  it  backwards  and  forwards 
three  or  four  times,  in  order  to  acquire  a, 
greater  velocity  with  the  swing,  he  then  swings  it  over  his  head, 
and  thence  as  far  forward  as  is  necessary ;  so  that  by  the  lead 
sinking  whilst  the  ship  advances,  the  line  may  be  almost  perpen- 
dicular when  it  reaches  the  bottom.  The  person  sounding  then 
proclaims  the  depth  of  water,  in  a  kind  of  singing  manner. 
Thus :  if  the  mark  of  five  fathoms  is  close  to  the  surface  of  the 
water,  he  sings  out,  "  by  the  mark  5  !"  and,  as  there  are  no  marks 
at  4,  6,  8,  &c.,  he  estimates  those  numbers,  and  sings,  "by  the 
deep  4  !"  &c.  If  he  considers  it  to  be  a  quarter,  or  a  half,  more 
than  any  particular  number  he  sings  out,  "  and  a  quarter  5  !" 
"  and  a  half  4  !"  &c.  If  he  conceives  the  depth  to  be  three  quar- 
ters more  than  a  particular  number,  he  calls  it  a  quarter  less  than 
the  next ;  thus,  at  four  fathoms  and  three-quarters,  he  calls,  "  a 
quarter  less  5  !"  and  so  on.  according  to  the  depth  of  the  water. 


*  A  leather  becket  may  be  used  for  light  leads,  insead  of  a  rope  strap. 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR-, 


263.— MARKING  A   LOG-LINE 


Allow  twelve  fathoms  for  stray  line,  where  stick  in  a  white 
rag ;  then  at  every  forty-seven  feet  and  six-tenths,  mark  the  line 
as  follows,  viz.:  at  one,  one  leather ;  at  two,  two  knots  ;  at  three, 
three  knots  ;  and  also  having*  a  mark  at  every  half-knot.  The 
glasses  should  be  proved  with  a  good  watch,  having  a  second- 
hand. 

The  principle  of  the  log-line  is,  that  a  knot  is  the  same  part 
of  a  sea-mile,  that  half-a-minute  is  of  an  hour;  therefore  the 
length  of  a  knot  should  be  one-hundred-and-twentieth  the  length 
of  a  sea  mile,  or  fifty-one  feet ;  but  as  it  is  more  convenient  to 
have  the  knot  divided  into  eight  parts,  of  six  feet  each,  the  pro- 
portional reduction  is  necessary  in  the  glass.  Therefore  as  51 
feet  :  30  seconds  :  :  48  feet  :  28,  4.17  seconds;  but  as  the  frac- 
tion can  be  more  easily  allowed  in  the  line  than  the  glass,  another 
proportion  is  necessary,  viz.,  as  28,  4.17  seconds  :  48  feet  :  :  28 
seconds  to  47.6  feet,  or  the  length  of  a  knot. 

Note. — Log-lines  are  kept  on  reels  for  the  purpose. 

The  length  of  the  stray-line  is  regulated  by  the  size  of  the 
ship. 


264.— GETTING   READY  FOR   SEA. 

Observe  and  note  the  exact  line  of  flotation.  See  that  all  the 
rigging  is  properly  up,  alow  and  aloft.  See  that  the  preventer- 
gear  is  on,  as  well  as  breast-ropes  for  leadsmen,  and  leads  and 
lines  in  the  chains.  If  requisite,  grease  the  masts,  jib  and  stay- 
sail-stays, lifts  and  trusses,  and  reef-pendants — sheet-anchor 
stowed — guns  secured — boats  hoisted  in  and  secured.  Care 
should  be  taken  that  the  harness-casks  are  lashed — chests  and 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


tables  properly  cleated,  and  binnacles  secured.  Let  the  armorer 
examine  the  slip-stoppers,  and  see  that  they  are  oiled,  and  in 
proper  condition — get  the  swinging-booms  fore  and  aft — awnings 
below,  and  awning  ridge-ropes  down — down  jack-staff — see  that 
the  tiller-ropes  are  all  clear,  and  that  the  tiller  moves  freely ;  also 
that  the  relieving- tackles  and  spare  tiller-ropes  are  at  hand. 

Cross  topgallant  yards,  bend  the  gear ;  take  the  covers  off  the 
jibs,  staysail,  spanker,  and  trysails,  and  coil  every  rope  down  clear, 
for  running — have  the  studding-sails  stopped,  ready  for  going 
aloft,  and  the  royal-halliards  down  on  the  weather  side.  Cat  and 
fish  overhauled  down.  Timenoguys  in  their  respective  places. 
Life-buoys  in  order.  Accommodation-ladder  unshipped  and 
stowed  away.  Pendants  and  ladders  taken  off  the  swinging- 
booms — head-cranes  unshipped — chafing-gear  on  its  respective 
places.  It  would  also  be  well  to  see  that  there  is  a  sufficiency  of 
sand  on  board. 


265 — CLEAR   HAWSE. 


Call  all  hands  to  "  clear  hawse."  Lash  a  stout  single-block  tc 
the  bowsprit,  through  which  reeve  the  clear  hawse-pendant; 
haul  the  launch  under  the  bows,  or  if  there  is  too  much  sea  on, 
or  she  is  not  out,  send  a  hand  down  in  a  bowline,  and  hook  the 
pendant  to  the  riding-cable,  below  the  turn ;  bouse  them  up  clear 
of  the  water,  after  which  pass  a  stout  lashing  round  both  cables. 

If  there  should  be  a  heavy  sea  on,  or  the  wind  flawey  and 
variable,  it  would  be  well  to  pass  the  end  of  a  hawser  out  of  the 
hawse-hole,  and  hitch  it  to  the  cable,*  to  relieve  the  lashing. 
Reeve  ropes  through  blocks  on  each  side  of  the  bowsprit  end,  for 
bow-lines,  and  pass  them  in  at  the  hawse-hole,  so  as  to  take  out 
an  elbow ;  for  instance — suppose  the  starboard  was  the  clearing 
cable,  take  the  larboard  bow-line  down  under  the  cable,  up  into 
the  starboard  hawse-hole,  and  the  starboard  one  over  to  the  lar 
board  side  of  the  cable ;  then  follow  the  lead  of  the  la- board  bow- 
line, bend  on  several  fathoms  inside,  and  stop  along  to  the  hawse 

*  See  ck  ar  hawse-shackle  and  pendant 


J5U  THE   KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

hole;  draw  the  splice,  or  unshackle,  bend  on  the  hawse-iope,  off- 
stoppers,  and  run  out ;  hang  the  bights  to  the  bowsprit  (if  hemp- 
cable),  with  slip-ropes,  and  send  in  the  bow-lines  again,  the  same 


way  as  before.  When  the  end  is  out,  "  cast  off,"  dip  it  fair,  and 
bend  on  again  to  the  cable ;  rouse  in,  slack  down  the  slip-ropes, 
and  splice  or  shackle  the  cable ;  haul  it  taut  with  a  deck-tackle, 
and  bitt,  and  stopper  as  before.  Cast  off  the  hawser,  unlash  the 
cable,  unreeve  the  clear  hawse-pendant,  unlash  the  block  from 
the  bowsprit  end,  and  clear  up  the  deck. 

Note. — If  there  is  a  round  turn  and  an  elbow  in  the  hawse 
after  rousing  the  cable,  repeat  the  operation  as  before;  it  is 
always  well  to  prevent  confusion,  by  taking  out  one  elbow  at  a 
time.  A  cross,  is  when  the  cables  lay  across  each  other,  or  when 
the  ship  has  swung  foul  once  ;  an  elbow  is  two  crosses,  and  a 
round  turn  is  three  crosses  ;  a  round  turn  and  elbow  is  five  cross- 
es. It  can  readily  be  seen  thus,  in  clearing  hawse  with  a  round 
turn,  a  cross  will  be  left  in  the  cables. 

The  anchor  is  fouled  in  the  very  operation  of  letting  it  go  ; 
the  weight  of  the  chain-cable  causing  the  running  out  part  to 
fall  over  and  foul  the  stock.  To  avoid  this,  some  officers  pursue 
the  practice  of  "letting  go"  the  anchor  with  the  cable  bitted, 
which  plan  is  strongly  recommended. 

From  the  weight  of  the  chain-cable,  compared  with  that  of  the 
hempen,  the  former  is  less  liable  than  the  latter  to  foul  the  an- 
chor ;  but  no  speculation  should  induce  an  officer  to  depart  from 
that  practice  which  can  alone  ensure  a  clear  anchor. 


266.— WEIGHING  AN   ANCHOR  WITH   THE  LAUNCH. 

This  may  be  done  by  under-running,  when  the  ship  has  slip- 
ped the  cable,  or  weighing  by  the  buoy-rope,  when  the  anchor  is 
lying  in  too  shoal  water  for  the  ship  to  be  hove  up  to  it. 

Ship  the  roller  on  the  stern  of  the  launch,  have  strong  tackles 
with  a  jigger  also,  and  some  good  rope  for  stoppers.  Get  the  end 
of  the  cable  over  the  roller  ;  pass  a  strap  round  it,  to  which  hook 
the  double  block  of  the  tackle,  and  the  single  one  to  a  bolt  in  the 
bows ;  man  the  fall,  and  as  the  cable  comes  in,  French-flake  it 
along  the  thwarts;  when  the  tackle  comes  two  blocks,  "stopper 
and  fleet;"  when  the  cable  is  "up  and  down,"  clap  the  jigger  on 
the  fall  of  the  tackle,  and  heave  the  boat's  stern  well  down  in 
the  water,  and  stopper  securely.  Send  all  the  men  in  the  bows 
of  the  boat ;  jump  the  boat  and  break  the  anchor  out  of  the 
ground;  then  man  the  fall  again,  off  stopper,  and  heave  up; 
when  the  ring  of  the  anchor  is  above  water,  pass  a  short  ring- 
stopper,  haul  the  buoy  on  board,  and  bring  the  boat  to  the  ship; 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


161 


\vhen  alongside,  hook  the  cat,  and  cat  the  anchor.  Get  the  end 
of  the  cable  unclinched,  passed  into  the  hawse,  and  the  remain- 
der hauled  out  of  the  launch.  (If  chain-cable,  unshackle.) 


267.— WEIGHING  AN  ANCHOR  WITH  A  BUOY-ROPK 


Get  the  buoy-rope  over  the  roller,  clap  on  a  tackle,  and  weigh 
the  anchor  as  before.  When  it  is  secured,  man  the  capstan, 
heave  the  launch  in  under  the  bows,  and  cat  the  anchor. 

Anchors  are  generally  weighed  with  the  buoy-rope  when  the 
cable  has  parted,  and  the  end  cannot  be  grappled ;  when  this  is 
the  case,  the  anchor  may  be  weighed  with  launch,  brought  un- 
der the  bows  and  catted,  and  the  cable  imclmched  and  hove  in ; 
or  the  ship  might  be  warped  over  the  buoy,  and  the  cat-fall  taken 
to  the  buoy-rope. 


THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

268.— BOATING  AN   ANCHOR. 


Place  the  flukes  perpendicularly  over  the  stern,  and  the  stock 
a-thwart-ships  in  the  stern  sheets,  resting  horizontally  upon  a 
loose  thwart,  placed  there  previously  for  the  purpose,  and  steady 
all  by  one  or  two  lashings. 

In  letting  go,  nothing  more  is  required  than  to  cant  the  anchor 
over  the  quarter,  by  means  of  the  thwart,  taking  care  previously 
that  the  buoy,  buoy-rope,  and  cable,  be  perfectly  clear. 

Light  anchors  should  be  boated  contrary  to  this,  i.  e.,  flukes 
inboard,  and  stock  out. 


269.— TAKING  IN   A  LAUNCH. 

Brace  and  secure  the  yards  the  same  as  when  getting  up  the 
anchors,  and  also  rig  the  same  purchases  ;  place  the  chocks,  pass 
everything  out  of  the  launch,  and  hook  the  purchases  to  spans ; 
have  a  few  hands  in  the  boat  to  keep  her  clear  of  the  ship's  side. 
Man  the  yard  tackle  falls  ;  have  some  hands  to  take  in  the  slack 
of  the  stay  fall ;  "  walk  away  ;"  when  the  boat  leaves  the  water, 
take  out  the  plug.  When  high  enough  to  clear  the  waist  anchor 
stock,  haul  over  on  the  main  stay,  easing  away  the  fore  and 
main  yards  ;  when  the  stern  is  over  the  deck,  haul  over  the  fore 
stay,  lower,  and  place  her  in  the  chocks. 

The  other  boats  may  be  got  on  board  by  the  same  purchases. 
The  launch  is  stowed  on  the  larboard  side  ;  the  first  cutter  on  the 
starboard  side;*  the  second  cutter,  inside  the  launch,  and  the 
third  cutter  inside  the  first.  When  all  are  in,  unrig  the  purchases, 
square  the  yards,  and  set  up  the  gripes. 

The  quarter  and  stern  boats  are  hoisted  up  to  their  davits,  and 
secured  to  them  by  stoppers,  and  the  gripes  set  up. 


*  i.  e.,  if  the  ship  be  a  frigate  or  larger.    Single-deck  ships  have  but  one  nest 
of  boats. 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


153 


27O.— TAKING  IN  BOATS   BOTH  SIDES  AT  ONCE. 

The  yards  are  kept  square,  and  secured  on  both  sides  by  the 
lifts,  burtons,  and  quarter  lifts.  Use  the  winding  and  stay  tackles 
for  the  heaviest  boats,  and  the  yard  tackles  for  the  lightest  ones  ; 
the  topsail  halliards  forward,  and  the  main  pendant  tackle  aft, 
acting  as  stays  to  bring  them  on  board.  It  may  be  necessary  to 
come  up  the  forward  backstays,  as  they  would  be  likely  to  inter- 
fere with  the  bows  of  the  boats :  after  which  proceed  as  before. 

Taking  in  a  boat  at  sea. — Back  the  mam-topsail,  get  the  boat 
to  leeward,  secure  the  lower  yards  as  before  directed,  and  hoist 
her  in.  The  boat  coming  in  to  leeward,  tackles  will  be  neces- 
sary to  get  her  to  windward  sufficiently  to  lower  away. 

When  before  the  wind,  a  boat  might  be  got  in  by  securing  the 
yards  as  before,  arid  taking  a  hawser  from  aft  to  the  stern  of  the 
boat,  to  keep  her  from  sending  or  pitching  forward  when  leaving 
the  water,  and  thereby  endangering  the  yards. 

Note. — Some  of  our  large  vessels  have  two  sets  of  yard  and 
stay  tackles,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  in  boats  both  sides  at  once  ; 
but  the  above  mentioned  gear  will  answer  all  purposes  in  any 
case  of  emergency,  where  the  manoauvre  is  not  considered  as  ex- 
ercising. 


PART    IV. 


271.— GETTING  UNDER-WEIGH. 

See  that  the  hawse  is  clear ;  overhaul  a  range  of  the  weather 
cable — get  up  nippers — pass  the  messenger — knock  up  the  stan- 
chions— ship  the  gratings — ship,  and  swifter-in  the  capstan  bars 
— rig  the  fish-davit — overhaul  cat  and  fish  ;  and  call  "  all  hands 
unmoor  ship." 

When  the  cable  grows  with  the  angle  of  the  main-stay,  the 
ship  is  said  to  ride  at  a  "long  stay;"  when  it  grows  with  the 
angle  of  the  fore-stay,  the  ship  is  said  to  be  at  a  "  short-stay.'7 
When  perpendicular,  the  phrase  is  "  up  and  down."  From  one 
or  other  of  the  two  last  mentioned  positions,  sail  is  generally 
made  in  getting  under-weigh. 

If  from  the  nature  of  the  ground,  or  strength  of  the  wind, 
there  should  be  any  probability  of  dragging  the  anchor,  sail  is 
generally  made  from  a  "  short  stay."  In  such  a  case,  particular 
attention  ought  to  be  paid  that  the  head  yards  be- not  braced  too 
sharp  a-box;  for  the  object  being  to  cant  the  ship  with  the  least 
possible  sternway,  the  sooner  the  head  sails  lift  or  fill  the  better. 
The  jibs  are  hoisted  the  instant  they  will  take.  If,  after  all,  the 
ship  drags  her  anchor,  you  can  pall  the  capstan — stopper  over  all. 
brace  round  the  head  yards,  and  force  her  a-head  by  the  sails,  as 
far  as  may  be  necessary ;  then  back  the  head  yards,  lay-to,  and 
get  the  anchor  up. 

If  there  should  be  so  much  wind  and  sea,  as  to  make  it  a  matter 
of  difficulty  to  get  the  anchor,  but  plenty  of  sea-room,  brace  the 
yards  a-box,  according  to  the  tack  you  wish  to  go  upon,  and  get 
the  anchor  up  and  secured  before  making  sail.  In  moderate 
weather,  and  ordinary  circumstances,  sail  is  generally  made  when 
the  cable  is  "  up  and  down."  Sometimes  a  stern-board  is  neces- 
sary, with  the  anchor  dragging  on  the  ground  ;  at  other  times,  a 
tack  must  be  made  in  that  position. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  155 

If  ridiiig  by  the  starboard  cable,  and  no  impediment  to  port,  it 
will  be  the  most  eligible  method,  to  cast  her  on  the  starboard  tack, 
as  the  cable  will  then  be  clear  of  the  cutwater,  and  the  ship 
being  to  leeward  of  the  anchor,  it  can  be  more  easily  catted  and 
fished.  If  there  should  be  much  sea  on,  this  would  be  the  best 
plan. 

Having  determined  to  cast  on  the  starboard  tack,  overhaul  the 
lifts,  trusses,  and  backstay-falls.  The  fore-topsail  being  put  aback, 
by  the  starboard  braces  ;  the  main  and  mizen  by  the  wind,  with 
larboard  after  braces,  heaving  around  briskly,  and  before  breaking 
ground,  give  her  a  shear  with  the  starboard  helm ;  when  up,  hoist 
the  jib,  keeping  the  helm  a-starboard,  until  the  stern-board  ex- 
ceeds the  velocity  of  the  tide,  when  shift  it,  grapple  the  buoy, 
and  cat  the  anchor.  When  she  has  fallen  off,  so  as  to  fill  the 
after  sails,  let  flow  the  jib-sheet,  haul  out  the  spanker,  set  top- 
gallant sails  and  courses,  and  trim  the  yards  and  sails  properly. 

To  cast  off  on  the  larboard  tack,  put  the  helm  a-port,  and  brace 
the  yards  the  contrary  way. 


272.— WHEN  THE  MESSENGER  STRANDS,   OR   IS 
LIKELY  TO  PART. 

If  the  messenger  is  likely  to  part,  from  the  great  strain  upon  it, 
stopper  immediately,  and  either  pass  a  new  one,  or  reeve  a  viol 
purchase,  assisting  it  with  the  cat-fall.  Lash  the  viol  block  to 
the  cable  near  the  hawse-hole ;  clinch  one  end  of  the  hawser  to 
the  main-mast,  snatch  the  bite  in  the  block,  and  take  the  other 
end  to  the  capstan.  To  assist  the  viol,  pass  a  strap  round  the 
cable,  close  down  to  the  water,  to  which  hook  the  cat-fall,  and 
heave  up  on  both  purchases. 

If  the  messenger  should  strand,  stopper  immediately,  cut  it, 
cind  then  knot  or  splice  it. 


156 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


273.— TO  GET   UNDER-WEIGH  AND  STAND  BEFORE 
THE  WIND. 


Make  all  preparations  for  getting  under-weigh,  heave-in,  and 
make  sail  as  before.  Lay  the  main  and  mizen  topsails  square 
aback ;  the  fore  one  sharp  aback,  according  to  the  side  it  is  in- 
tended to  cast — heave-in,  cant  her  the  right  way  with  the  helm 
before  tripping,  and  as  soon  as  the  velocity  of  the  stern-board  is 
greater  than  that  of  the  tide,  shift  the  helm,  grapple  the  buoy, 
run  up  the  jib  as  soon  as  it  will  take,  and  haul  aft  the  weather- 
sheet.  While  falling  off,  cat  and  fish  the  anchor ;  as  she  gathers 
head-way,  shift  the  helm  ;  when  before  the  wind,  right  it — square 
the  head  yards,  and  brail  up  the  jib — set  topgallant  sails,  royals, 
and  foresail — haul  taut  the  lifts,  trusses,  backstay-falls,  a,nd  if 
necessary,  set  the  studding-sails. 


OR    YOUJSG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


157 


274.— IN  GETTING  UNDER-WEIGH,  TO  BACK  AST ERJS 
AND  AVOID  DANGER. 


Make  all  preparations  as  before.  If  required  to  cast  on  the 
starboard  tack,  sheer  her  with  the  starboard  helm ;  to  bring  the 
wind  on  the  starboard  bow,  brace  the  yards  aback,  about  half- 
way up  with  the  larboard  braces  ;  haul  out  the  spanker  and  keep 
the  boom  nearly  amid-ships.  Heave  up  briskly,  grapple  the  buoy, 
and  as  soon  as  the  anchor  is  up,  put  the  helm  hard  a-weather  to 
keep  her  to — cat  and  fish  the  anchor.  Having  made  sufficient 
stern-board,  shift  the  helm,  brace  the  after  yards,  ease  off  the 
spanker  sheet,  and  run  up  the  jib.  When  full  aft,  brace  up  the 
nead  yards,  and  as  she  gathers  headway,  right  the  helm  and 
make  sail.  To  cast  on  the  larboard  tack,  sheer  her  with  the 
port  helm,  brace  all  sharp  aback,  and  proceed  as  before. 


275.— GETTING  UNDER-WEIGH- 
EACH  BEAM. 


-A  SHOAL  ON 


It  becomes  necessary  to  proceed  to  sea,  and  is  impossible  to 
weather  either  of  tb  jse  a-beam;  but  there  is  just  room  to  pass 
between  a  shoal  astern,  and  either  of  those  a-beam,  with  the  wind 
blowing  fresh. 

Pass  the  stream  cable  out  of  one  of  the  quarter  ports  ;  bend  on 
one  end  to  the  cable,  and  secure  the  other  to  the  topsail  sheet- 


THE  KEDGE-ANCHOU; 


bitts  ;  draw  the  splice*  of  the  cable,  bend  a  slip-buoy  to  it,  and 
heave  it  overboard.  See  the  stoppers  clear  for  slipping  ;  stop 
the  topsails  to  the  yards  with  spun-yarn,  casting  off  the  gaskets. 
Loose  the  courses,  jib,  and  spanker  —  mast-head  the  topsail-yards 

—  man  the  jib-halliards  —  sheer  her  from  the  cable  with  the  helm 

—  slip  and  run  up  the  jib  —  keep  fast  the  stream-cable,  and  let 
her   swing  round.     When  she  heads  for  the  passage,  slip  the 
stream-cable,  right  the  helm,  sheet  home  the  topsails,  set  the 

the 


courses, 
passage 


and  other  sails  if  necessary  ;  then  stand 


through 


276.— GETTING  UNDER-WEIGH  IN  A  NARROW 
CHANNEL. 

At  anchor  in  a  narrow 
channel,  riding  to  a  strong 
leeward  tide,  and  blowing 
fresh  ;  a  ship  astern,  and 
also  one  on  each  quarter,  so 
near  that  there  is  not  room 
to  wear,  for  casting ;  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  put  to  sea,  and  to 
do  so  a  passage  must  be  ef- 
fected between  the  two  ships. 
Make  all  preparations  for 
getting  under-weigh,  and 
heave-in  as  described  before. 
Loose  the  topsails  ;  if  riding  %y  the  star-board  cable,  give  her  a 
rank  sheer  with  the  starboard  helm  :  set  up  the  starboard  back- 
stays, and  bear  aft  the  larboard  ones  ;  overhaul  lifts  and  trusses  ; 
haul  out  the  spanker,  and  get  the  boom  over  on  the  larboard 
quarter ;  lead  along  the  main  tack  and  sheet ;  run  up  the  jib, 
and  haul  aft  the  weather  sheet ;  "  Heave  round  cheerily  ;"  run 
the  anchor  up,  grapple  the  buoy,  and  as  soon  as  she  fills,  meet 
her  with  the  helm  ;  board  the  main  tack  to  catch  her;  trim  the 
jib  and  spanker  sheets,  set  the  foresail,  and  trim  sharp ;  haul 
taut  the  bowlines  ;  stand  on  as  far  as  may  be  necessary. 

Note. — A  good  deal  of  uncertainty  attends  this  manoeuvre  ;  if 
there  is  room,  it  would  be  the  best  plan  to  lay  the  yards  aback. 
ft  is  confidently  asserted  by  old  experienced  seamen,  that  the 
above  method  is  perfectly  practicable. 


*  If  chain  cable,  unshackle. 


OR   YOUNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT  159 

277.— HEAD  TO  WIND,  CAST  ON  STARBOARD  TACK. 


Everything  having  been  previously  prepared,  heave  in  and 
make  sail  as  before.  Sheer  her  with  a  starboard  helm  ;  brace  the 
head  yards  sharp  up  with  the  starboard  braces,  and  counter  brace 
the  after  ones ;  haul  out  the  spanker,  and  get  the  boom  on  the 
larboard  quarter ;  heave  in,  and  up  anchor ;  up  jib  as  soon  as 
it  will  take ;  and  when  the  stern-board  exceeds  the  velocity  of 
the  tide,  shift  the  helm.  When  the  after  sails  are  full,  trim  the 
spanker,  let  flow  the  jib  sheet,  cat  and  fish  the  anchor,  haul  aft 
the  jib  sheet,  brace  round  the  head-yards,  and  make  sail 


278.— WINDWARD  TIDE— GET  UNDER-WEIGH  AND 
STAND  BEFORE  THE  WIND. 

Make  all  preparation  for  getting  under-weigh,  heave  in,  loose 
jib,  up  anchor,  grapple  the  buoy,  run  up  the  jib,  cat  and  fish  the 
anchor,  and  make  sail  with  expedition. 

If  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  ship  under  greater  command, 
as  might  be  the  case  in  a  narrow  channel,  or  crowded  harbor 
:t  would  be  better  to  proceed  as  follows  : — 

Heave  in  to  a  "  short  stay,"  loose  the  courses,  topsails,  jib  arid 
spanker.  If  riding  by  the  starboard  cable,  sheer  her  with  the 
13 


160 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


starboard  helm,  and  bring  the  wind  on  the  larboard  quarter 
orace  the  yards  to,  by  the  larboard  braces,  and  keep  them  shiver- 
ing- by  the  helm.  "Heave  up  ;"  fill  the  after  yards,  and  square 
the  head  ones ;  haul  aft  jib  sheet  on  starboard  tack  ;  cat  and  fish 
the  anchor  ;  up  helm;  fill  the  head  yards,  shiver  the  after  ones, 
get  her  before  the  wind,  and  make  sail. 


279.— TO  GET  UNDER-WEIGH,  AND  STAND  OUT  ON 

A  WIND. 


Make  all  preparations — commence  heaving  in ;  loose  jib  and 
spanker ;  top  up  and  bear  over  the  boom  on  the  right  quarter, 
and  the  helm  to  the  side  which  it  is  intended  to  cast ;  "  heave 
up  ;"  get  the  buoy  ;  haul  out  on  the  spanker  as  soon  as  it  will 
take.  When  the  wind  gets  abeam,  run  up  the  jib,  and  meet  hp.r 
with  the  helm  ;  cat  and  fish  the  anchor  ;  loose,  sheet  home,  ami 
hoist  the  topsails,  brace  up,  bring  by  and  make  sail. 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSIST AN1.  jgj 

— RIDING  HEAD  TO  TIDE,  WIND  ON  THE  STAR- 
BOARD  QUARTER,  TO  GET  UNDER-WEIGH  ON  THE 
STARBOARD  TACK. 

Make  all  preparations,  heave  short,  loose  sails,  sheet  home 
and  hoist  the  topsails,  bracing  them  to  with  the  starboard  braces ; 
keep  them  shivering,  by  the  assistance  of  the  topsails  and  helm, 
— "  heave  round," — break  ground — put  the  helm  a-starboard — 
brace  full  the  head  yards — run  up  the  jib,  and  let  her  pay  round 
to  port ;  heave  up  the  anchor,  and  grapple  the  buoy.  Haul  out 
the  spanker  as  soon  as  it  will  take — shift  over  the  head  sheets, 
and  square  the  head  yards — trim  aft  the  jib-sheet,  and  meet  her 
with  the  helm.  Cat  and  fish  the  anchor,  and  make  sail  as  neces- 
sary. 


281.— GETTING  UNDER-WEIGH— WIND  ACROSS  THE 

TIDE. 

In  getting  under-weigh,  say  ebb-tide,  make  all  preparations, 
loose,  sheet  home,  and  hoist  the  topsails ;  brace  up  the  fore  and 
mizen  topsails,  and  lay  the  main  yard  to  the  mast.  Give  her  a  spoke 
or  two  of  the  lee  wheel,  so  as  to  take  the  main -topsail  well  aback. 
"  Heave  up,"  cat  and  fish  the  anchor,  and  grapple  the  buoy ;  at 
the  same  time,  set  the  jib  and  spanker — fill  the  main  yard, 
stand  on  to  a  convenient  place,  and  then  tack  or  veer. 

The  evolution  is  determined  by  the  circumstance  of  there  being 
more  room  to  windward  or  to  leeward. 

Flood-Tide. — Proceed  as  before,  until  the  anchor  is  catted  and 
fished ;  then  hoiet  the  jib,  haul  out  the  spanker,  fill  the  main- 
topsail,  and  stand  out,  making  whatever  sail  may  be  judged 
necessary. 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


282.— TO  BACK  AND  FILL  IN  A  TIDE-WAY. 

This  manoeuvre  is 
only  executed  when 
a  ship  is  to  proceed 
up  or  down  a  rapid 
river  against  the 
wind,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  be  light,  and 
may  be  done  by 
two  methods,  viz., 
driving  before  the 
wind,  or  broadside 
to  it.  When  the 
channel  is  broad 
enough,  the  latter 
method  is  preferable, 
as  the  ship  will  be 

more  under  the  command  of  her  helm. 


283.— DRIVING  BEFORE  THE  WIND. 

,  This   is  only  done  in  a  very  narrow 

channel.  Heave  up  the  anchor,  and  get 
her  before  the  wind,  with  just  sail  enough 
to  keep  her  so.  Suppose  her  under  top- 
sails, and  as  she  drops  with  the  tide,  it 
becomes  necessary  for  her  to  remain  sta- 
tionary, to  allow  a  ship  to  pass  her  stern, 
— set  topgallant-sails,  and  if  required  to 
shoot  ahead,  drop  the  foresail.  If  to  avoid 
a  rock,  or  ship  astern,  put  the  helm  up  or 
down — haul  out  the  spanker — brace  up, 
and  haul  aft  the  jib-sheet,  as  she  comes  too ;  shoot  across  until  clear 
of  danger,  when  put  the  helm  up,  brail  up  the  spanker,  shiver 
the  after  yards,  and  when  before  the  wind,  brail  up  the  jib.  If 
in  standing  across,  she  should  get  too  near  the  shore — get  heron 
the  other  tack,  by  wearing  or  box-hauling. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


284.— DRIVING  BROADSIDE-TO. 

Get  under- weigh,  and  oring  her  by  the  wind  under  the  jib, 
topsails,  and  spanker  ;  shiver  the  topsails  ;  when  filled,  stand  on 
to  the  middle  of  the  channel ;  brail  up  the  jib  and  spanker,  and 
let  her  drift  in  this  situation  until  she  falls  off,  which  she  will 
soon  do,  owing  to  her  greater  immersion  aft  than  forward,  which 
will  drift  her  stem  farther  to  windward.  Haul  out  the  spanker, 
and  if  this  is  insufficient,  back  the  mizen-topsail ;  if  she  still  falls 
off,  back  the  main  also,  both  square  aback,  and  if  she  should  get 
a  stern-board,  put  the  helm  hard  a- weather ;  should  she  come-to 
again,  shiver  the  topsails,  and  brail  up  the  spanker,  letting  her 
drift  as  before. 


285.— SECURING  THE   SHIP   FOR  SEA. 

Take  the  departure,  give  the  course,  and  make  sail.  Beat  to 
quarters — examine  the  magazine — load,  shot,  and  secure  the 
guns — see  that  all  the  gear  of  the  guns  is  ready  for  service,  and 
secured.  Fill  the  shot-boxes,  rack,  and  wad-nets — get  the  anchors 
on  the  bows,  and  lash  them — unbend  the  cable  and  buoy-ropes ; 
if  clean  and  dry,  pay  them  below;  also  the  messenger,  hawsers, 
i  toppers  and  nippers,  and  cable-mats,  put  in  the  buckles — unreeve, 
(.at  and  fish,  and  coil  them  away  below.  Get  chafing-mats  on 
the  yards  and  rigging — see  the  booms  and  boats  secured,  pumps 
in  good  order,  and  the  gratings  and  tarpaulins  ready  for  putting 
on.  Overhaul  the  storm-staysail  gear,  see  everything  read}'  for 
service,  and  stow  it  below  again. 


286.— STOWING  THE  ANCHORS  FOR  SEA. 

The  anchors  being  catted  and  fished,  clap  a  stout  tackle  on 
them  and  cat-head  stoppers ;  pass  a  good  lashing  through  the 
ring  and  over  the  cat-head — expend  the  stopper  in  the  same  way. 
Hook  the  pendant-tackle  to  a  strap  around  the  shank — weigh  the 
crown,  and  bouse  the  fluke  into  the  bill-port  by  a  thwartship 
tackle ;  having  another  tackle  clapt  on  the  end  of  the  anchor-stock 
which  is  uppermost,  getting  it  as  close  to  the  side  as  the  stock 
will  permit ;  pass  stout  shank-lashings  also  around  the  stock  and 
cat-bead.  Unbend  the  cable  and  buoy-rope. 


|fj4  THE  KEDGE-AJNCHOR; 

Note. — The  waist-anchors  are  securely  stowed  when  they  are 
first  got  on  board.  Some  ships  use  preventer  lashings  and  junip- 
ers in  bad  weather,  when  the  ship  is  lurching  in  a  heavy  sea,  or 
when  liable  to  ship  seas  in  the  waist. 


287.— SETTING    TOPGALLANT   SAILS— BLOWING 
FRESH. 

Point  the  yards  to  the  wind, 
and  loose  the  sails ;  sheet  home 
first  to  leeward,  and  then  to  wind- 
ward— having  a  hand  to  leeward 
to  light  the  foot  over  the  topmast 
stay ;  hoist  away,  trim  the  yards, 
and  haul  taut  the  bow-lines. 

Note. — In  setting  topgallant 
sails  over  single-reefed  topsails, 
see  that  the  sheets  are  out 
square  alike. 


288.— SETTING   COURSES. 


Moderate  weather. — Man  the  fore  and  main-tacks  and  sheets 
attend  the  rigging — have  hands  on  the  lower  yards  to  overhaul 
it — haul  aboard — check  the  top  bow-lines,  weather  lower  lifts,  and 


UR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  165 

a  little  of  the  lee-main-brace — avast  the  sheets;  get  Jie  tacks 
close  down,  and  then  haul  aft  the  sheets — haul  taut  the  main- 
brace,  lifts,  trusses,  and  bowlines. 

Blowing  fresh. — Man  well  the  sheets,  overhaul  the  leech-lines 
and  lee-bunt-lines ;  ease  dovn  the  lee-clew-garnet,  slack  top 
bowlines,  lower  lifts,  and  lee-main-braces,  until  the  tacks  are 
down ;  then  haul  aft  the  sheets,  haul  taut  the  lee-main-brace, 
weather  lifts  and  bow-lines,  and,  if  necessary,  hook  and  haul  taut 
the  rolling-tackle,  to  ease  the  trusses. 


289.— SETTING  THE   SPANKER. 

Top-up  the  boom,  overhaul  lee-topping-lifts,  attend  the  sheets 
and  weather-guy ;  haul  over  the  lee-guy,  and  trim  the  boom — 
man  the  outhaul  and  attend  the  brails  and  vangs — let  go  the 
brails,  haul  out  and  steady  the  gaff  by  the  vangs. 

Note. — The  weather-vang  should  never  be  hauled,  or  boused 
too  taut,  as  it  may  be  the  means  of  carrying  away  the  gaff, 
especially  when  using  trysails  as  storm-sails. 


29O.— SETTING  THE   JIB 


Cant  the  spritsail- yard  to 
steady  the  boom ;  man  the  hal- 
liards and  sheet — see  the  down- 
haul  and  brails  clear,  take  in  the 
slack  of  the  sheet  to  steady  the 
sail;  "hoist  away;"  and  as  the 
sail  goes  up,  ease  off  the  sheet — 
when  taut  up,  haul  aft  the  sheet 


16(5  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


291.— SETTING  LOWER    STUDDING-SAILS. 

When  the  boom  is  out  or  a-thwartships,  and  trimmed  with  the 
fore  yard,  the  outer  halliards  and  outhauler  are  to  be  well  man- 
ned, taking  in  the  slack  of  the  inner  halliards,  as  the  sail  goea 
over  the  gunwale,  and  ultimately  reaches  its  destined  height. 
In  running  away  with  the  lower  halliards,  care  must  be  taken 
that  the  yard  be  not  brought  up  with  a^'er&,  against  the  topmast 
studding-sail  boom ;  by  this  sudden  jerk  booms  are  liable  to  be 
sprung. 


292.— SHIFTING  A  COURSE  AT  SEA. 

Moderate  weather. — In  shifting  a  course  at  sea,  with  th« 
watch,  and  with  time  to  prepare  everything  for  a  smart  and 
pretty  evolution — get  the  spare  sail  up  from  below,  and  first  o.f 
all  stretched  across  the  deck.  Then,  the  course  being  set,  stopt 
per  the  (tack  and  sheet)  clews,  and  unbend  tacks,  sheets,  clew- 
garnets,  and  leech-lines,  bending  them  forthwith  to  the  spare 
sail ;  and,  when  done,  untoggle  the  bowlines,  and  send  the  hands 
aloft — trice  up,  lay  out,  cast  off  robins  and  earings,  and  make 
the  two  midship  robins  last  to  the  bunt-lines — ease  in  the  earinga 
together,  and  make  them  also  fast  to  the  buntlines  a-midships. 
Lower  the  sail  by  the  bunt-lines,  and  gather  it  in  by  hand.  Un- 
bend the  bunt-lines,  bend  them  to  the  spare  sail,  and  take  out 
the  yard-ropes. 

Divide  the  watch  to  the  yard-ropes,  bunt-lines  and  clew-gar- 
nets, and  haul  taut ;  haul  out  and  up  all  together — hands  aloft 
bring-to,  and  when  brought-to,  haul  on  board. 

Blowing  fresh. — First  haul  the  sail  up  and  furl  it ;  then  pro- 
ceed to  make  fast  the  midship  robins  and  earings  (when  cast  ofTj 
to  the  bunt-lines,  and  to  lower  the  sail  down  by  the  clew-garnets, 
as  well  as  buntlines. 

Note. — In  this  case  the  weather-tack  and  sheet  is  of  much  use 
in  hauling  the  sail  in  as  it  comes  down. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


293.— TAKING  IN  A  COURSE  IN   A  GALE   OF  WIND 

Steady  the  yard  as  securely  as  possible,  man  .he  clew-garnets, 
bunt-lines,  and  leech-lines ;  ease  away  the  tack  and  bow-line — 
haul  up  to  windward,  ease  off  the  sheet,  haul  up,  get  the  sail 
close  to  the  yard,  and  furl  it. 

It  is  a  common  practice  in  clewing-up  a  course,  to  let  go  the 
bowline  upon  starting  the  tack.  Neither  the  tack  nor  the  bow- 
line should  be  let  go,  but  each  eased  off  handsomely  by  hand. 
By  the  adoption  of  this  plan,  the  sail  will  bag  less  to  leeward, 
and  the  weather-clew  can  be  hauled  up  with  greater  ease;  but 
both  buntlines  should  be  well  manned,  and  even  better  manned, 
than  the  weather  clew-garnet.  When  the  latter  gear  is  well  up, 
walk  away  with  the  clew-garnet,  easing  steadily  the  sheet.  But 
all  these  precautions  will  be  of  little  avail,  unless  there  be  a  good 
preventer-brace  upon  the  lower  yard;  or  else  the  yard  tackle  be 
hooked  to  act  as  such,  and  brought  sufficiently  aft  to  prevent  the 
tackle  bringing  too  great  a  strain  in  an  up-and-down  position 
upon  the  upper  yard-arms. 


294.— TAKING  IN  A  TOPSAIL  IN   A  GALE  OF  WIN]) 

Steady  well  the  topsail  and  lower  yards,  rounding  in  the  wea- 
ther topsail  brace  as  much  as  possible.  Man  the  clewlines  and 
buntlines  ;  attend  the  sheets  and  bowlines  ;  clew  up  the  lee-sheet, 
and  haul  up  the  buntline.  If  to  save  the  yard,  haul  up  to  lee- 
ward first,  point  the  yard  to  the  wind,  and  steady  it  again ;  lay 
out  and  furl  the  sail. 

There  appears  to  be  still  a  dispute  among  seamen  as  to  the 
preferable  method  of  effecting  this  service. 

When  the  mast  is  not  considered  in  danger,  and  the  object  be 
to  save  the  sail,  or  to  ease  the  ship,  the  weather  clew  may  be  first 
lifted.  But  before  starting  the  weather  sheet,  it  would  be  well  to 
ease  first  a  few  feet  of  the  lee-sheet,  in  order  to  lessen  the  labor 
of  rounding  in  the  weather  brace.  So  soon  as  the  lee-sheet  be  suffi- 
ciently eased  to  admit  of  the  yard  coming  hi  with  the  weather 
brace,  and  both  buntlines  be  as  well  manned  as  the  weather 
clewline,  the  weather  sheet  may  be  then  eased  off,  and  the  wea- 
ther clewline  hauled  up,  with  every  prospect  of  saving  the  sail. 

If  there  be  plenty  of  sea  room,  and  the  ship  can  be  kept  away, 
some  officers  recommend  the  practice  of  bringing  the  wind  abaft 
the  beam,  and  then  hauling  up  the  lee-clewline  first — taking 
the  precaution  to  have  both  buntlines  well  manned.  When  this 
operation  is  effected,  the  weather  clewline  may  be  hauled  up. 


tGS  "I'HE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

rounding  the  brace  in,  as  the  ship  is  again  gradually  brought  to 
the  wind.  It  will  require  particular  attention  to  the  helm  when 
hauling  up  the  weather  clewline,  though  with  judicious  manage- 
ment, the  helm  alone  is  sufficient  to  spill  the  sail. 


295.— TAKING  IN  TOP-GALLANT  SAILS. 

Man  the  topgallant  clewlines ;  lay  aloft,  and  stand  by  to  furl 
the  sail ;  attend  the  braces,  bowlines,  sheets,  and  halliards ; 
round  in  the  weather  braces,  ease  away  the  lee-sheet  arid  hal- 
liards ;  "  lower  away ;"  ease  away  the  weather  sheet,  clew  up, 
haul  up  the  buntlines  :  steady  the  yard,  lay  out  and  furl  the  sail. 


296.— TAKING  IN  A  SPANKER. 

Have  the  brails  and  weather  vang  well  manned;  attend  the 
outhaul  and  lee  vang ;  ease  away  the  outhaul ;  haul  over  on  the 
v/eather  vang ;  brail  up  to  leeward ;  ease  off  the  sheet ;  haul 
taut  the  weather  brails ;  pass  the  foot  gaskets  ;  steady  the  gaff, 
ond  crutch  the  boom. 


297.— SETTING  A  CLOSE-REEFED  TOPSAIL. 

Point  the  yard  to  the  wind,  and  brace  the  lower  yard  a  little 
sharper  than  the  topsail  yard.  Man  the  sheets,  attend  the  bunt- 
lines,  and  loose  the  sail;  overhaul  the  lee-buntline,  ease  down 
t  he  lee-clewlines,  and  haul  home  the  lee-sheet ;  ease  off  the  weather 
buntline  ;  at  the  same  time  slack  down  the  weather  clewline,  and 
haul  home  the  weather  sheet.  Hoist  the  yard  up  clear  of  the 
cap ;  brace  up,  and  haul  the  bowline  ;  steady  the  lower  and  top- 
sail yards  with  the  braces  and  rolling-tackles. 

Note. — It  must  be  remembered  that  a  close  reefed  topsail  will 
not  sheet  close  home,  as  the  yard  is  to  hoist  clear  of  the  cap. 


298.— A  CLOSE-REEFED  TOPSAIL  SPLITS. 

Clew  up  the  sail  and  steady  the  yard ;  cast  off  some  of  the  rope- 
bands,  so  as  to  pass  stops  around  the  sail  to  secure  it.  Unbend 
die  sheets,  bowlines,  and  lee-buntlines  ;  unreeve  lee-clewline  and 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  169 

reef-tackle  ;  bend  the  weather  buntline  round  the  sail,  and  make 
the  lee-earing  fast  to  the  buntline ;  hook  a  burton  to  a  strap 
•ound  the  sail,  cast  off  all  the  rope-bands,  and  lower  away ;  ease 
away  the  weather  earing  and  lower  the  sail  on  deck.  Stretch 
along  the  new  sail,  overhaul  it,  then  reef  the  sail  at  the  foot,  com- 
mencing at  the  close  reef,  and  taking  in  each  of  the  three  lower 
reefs  separately ;  then  bight  it  down,  and  send  it  aloft,  as  describ- 
ed before,  observing  to  use  the  burtons  before  all.  Reeve  and 
bend  the  gear,  stopping  the  head  of  the  sail  to  the  buntlines ; 
have  yard-jiggers  hooked  to  bring  the  sail  to  the  yard — pass  the 
earings  and  rope-bands,  in  the  same  manner ;  bring  the  first  reef 
to  the  yard,  cast  out  the  other  reef,  haul  up  the  sail;  then  bring 
the  reefs  to  the  yard  alternately,  after  which  set  the  sail  as 


299.— A  JIB  SPLITS. 

Mind  the  weather  helm,  haul  the  sail  down,  and  hoist  the  fore- 
topmast-staysail.  Hitch  the  downhaul  around  the  body  of  the 
sail,  and  also  pass  stops  around  it — take  the  end  of  a  rope  from 
the  forcastle,  and  bend  it  on  to  haul  in  by.  Turn  out  the  jib- 
stays,  bend  a  line  on  to  the  end  and  unreeve  it — haul  taut  the 
halliards — ease  off  the  downhaul,  and  haul  in.  Get  up,  and 
overhaul  the  spare  sails ;  seize  on  the  sheet,  bend  the  halliards 
and  downhaul — stop  the  sail,  and  haul  out  by  the  downhaul  and 
halliards — reeve  the  jib-stay,  turn  it  in,  and  set  it  up ;  pass  the 
tack-lashings,  reeve  the  brails,  set  the  jib,  and  haul  down  the 
staysail. 


3OO.— TO  WEAR   SHIP  UNDER  CLOSE-REEFED  MAIN- 
TOPSAIL  AND  STORM-STAYSAILS. 

Call  all  hands"  wear  ship,"  and  station  them ;  have  lifts,  trusses, 
and  rolling-tackles  attended,  so  the  yard  and  topmast  may  be  well 
supported  in  the  heavy  rolling  which  they  are  likely  to  experi- 
ence. Haul  down  the  mizen  storm-staysail,  and  when  she  falls 
off,  up  helm ;  ease  off  the  main  storm-staysail  sheet,  and  brace 
in  the  main  and  cross-jack  yards ;  at  the  same  time  taking  care 
to  keep  the  maintopsail  full,  to  preserve  the  head-way,  and  to 
keep  her  a-head  of  the  sea ;  also  to  keep  it  from  splitting.  When 
the  wind  is  on  the  quarter,  haul  down  the  main  storm-staysail, 
and  shift  over  the  sheet ;  when  before  the  wind,  right  the  helm, 
and  square  the  head  yards;  shift  over  the  fore  storm-staysail 
watch  for  a  smooth  time  to  bring-her-to  ;  then  ease  down 


170  1'HE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

the  helm,  hoist  the  mizen  storm-staysail,  and  when  the  wind  is> 
on  the  quarter,  brace  up  the  yards,  hoist  the  main  storm-staysail, 
haul  aft  the  fore  storm-staysail  sheet,  meet  her  with  the  helm, 
trim  the  sails,  and  haul  the  maintop-bowline. 


3O1.— WEARING  UNDER  A  MAINSAIL. 

Make  fast  a  hawser  to  the  slings  of  the  main  yard,  take  it 
down  forward  of  the  sail,  haul  it  well  taut,  and  belay  it  to  the 
topsail  sheet  bitts.  Call  all  hands  and  station  them  as  in  the  last 
case ;  take  advantage  of  her  falling  off  to  put  the  helm  up. 
Ease  off  the  main  sheet,  and  gather  in  the  lee  tack,  using  the 
yards  as  in  ordinary  cases.  Should  she  not  go  off,  send  down 
the  cross-jack  yard,  and  mizentopsail  yard ;  house  the  topmast, 
and  get  a  drag  over  the  lee  quarter,  after  which  proceed  as  before 
in  bracing  the  yards,  and  bring  by  the  wind. 


3O2._ WEARING  UNDER  BARE  POLES. 

Send  down  the  after  yards  and  mizen  topmast,  and  bend  a 
hawser  to  it  in-board.  Send  men  in  the  weather  fore  rigging 
with  tarpaulins  ;  up  helm,  and  make  use  of  the  yards  as  usual. 

If  she  should  not  go  off,  it  will  be  necessary,  as  a  last  resort,  to 
cut  away  the  mizen  mast,  veer  away  the  hawser,  and  use  the 
mizen  topmast  as  a  drag  to  assist  in  wearing. 


3O3.— CUTTING-  AWAY  THE  MASTS. 

Clear  away  all  the  running  rigging  attached  to  the  mast,  cut 
away  the  lanyards  of  the  lee  rigging ;  then  the  lanyards  of  the 
stays  and  weather  rigging. 


3O4.— LAYING-TO  UNDER  LOWER  STAYSAILS,  WEAR 

SHIP. 

If  it  does  not  blow  too  fresh,  the  close-reefed  mainsail  may  be 
set,  as  some  lofty  sail  is  necessary,  to  prevent  the  ship  from  being 
pooped  ;  then  proceed  as  in  veering  under  bare  poles.  If  she 
should  not  go  off,  clap  a  lashing  round  the  bunt  of  the  foresail, 
and  set  the  weather  goose- wing.  Should  she  still  not  go  off, 
send  down  the  after  yards  and  mizen  topmast,  making  a  drag  of 
them.  If  they  have  no  effect,  cut  away  the  mizen  mast. 


PART    V, 


3O5.— PRECAUTIONS  FOR  SCUDDING. 

When  scudding  in  a  heavy  gale  of  wind,  care  should  be  taken 
that  sufficient  of  lofty  sail  be  carried  on  the  vessel,  to  keep  her 
freely  and  fairly  before  the  sea.  A  ship  will  scud  better  with  the 
sea  right  aft,  than  quartering.  With  a  heavy  sea,  the  danger  to 
oe  apprehended  is,  that  the  wave  traveling  faster  than  the  ship, 
may  overtake  and  break  over  her.  To  avoid  this,  and  diminish 
its  danger,  some  such  sail  as  a  close-reefed  topsail  or  foresail  is 
generally  kept  set  as  long  as  possible ;  but  there  are  times  wnen 
the  foresail  is  not  the  best  suited,  nor  the  safest  for  scudding. 
Some  ships  that  steer  badly,  and  manifest  an  inclination  to  yaw, 
will  be  more  steadily  steered,  and  easier  managed  when  scudding 
under  the  fore-topsail  and  fore-staysail.  Should  the  ship  happen 
to  broach-to,  the  foresail,  in  such  a  perilous  situation,  is  an  un- 
wieldy and  unmanageable  sail  to  clew  up ;  and  when  the  sea 
strikes  the  ship  on  the  quarter,  and  causes  her  head  to  round-tc 
in  the  direction  ot  the  wind,  the  main-topsail  tends  to  assist  the 
sea  in  producing  this  dangerous  movement ;  whereas,  the  fore- 
staysail,  together  with  the  fore-topsail,  produces  the  contrary  effect 

It  is  deeply  laden  ships  that  are  most  liable  to  get  pooped  ;  in 
which  circumstance,  a  skilful  foresight  must  be  exercised  in 
lightening  them. 

Reheving-tackles  should  be  hooked,  and  hands  stationed  to  at- 
tend them ;  spare  tiller  and  rudder-chocks  at  hand,  and  perfectly 
ready  for  use ;  for,  if  the  ship  should  get  pooped  with  a  heavy 
sea,  the  tiller  is  likely  to  get  snapped,  the  ship  to  broach-to,  and 
the  rudder,  if  not  quickly  secured,  to  be  unhung,  and  aftei 
damaging  the  stern,  to  be  lost.  Wreck  then  almost  immediately 
follows. 

When  using  the  foresail,  a  tackle  hooked  to  the  lee  fore -tack 
would  be  of  service  in  filling  the  sail. 


172  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


306.— SCUDDING.— A  SHIP   BROACHES-TO. 

Meet  her  with  the  helm,  and  lee  head  braces,  if  necessary : 
shiver  the  after  yards  ;  should  she  still  come-tc,  and  the  sails  are 
taken  aback,  brace  about  the  head  yards,  and  if  necessary,  use 
the  helm.  If  she  should  get  too  much  stern-board  in  falling  off, 
haul  up  the  foresail,  and  pay  her  off  with  the  fore  storm-staysail : 
fill  the  after  yards  as  soon  as  possible,  to  gather  headway,  and 
when  she  has  fallen  off  sufficiently,  brace  about  the  head  yards, 
and  trim  as  before. 

Note. — As  in  scudding,  the  safety  of  the  ship  depends  entirely 
upon  the  steering,  the  greatest  care  should  be  taken  that  a 
steady  and  expert  helmsman  is  stationed  at  the  wheel,  and  that 
when  his  "trick"  is  out,  and  his  "relief"  arrives  to  take  his  place, 
that  he  resigns  not  his  hand  at  the  helm,  until  his  successor  is 
in  full  possession  of  the  easiest  method  of  steering  the  ship. 
The  officer  of  the  deck  should  also  direct  a  compass  to  be  placed 
in  the  gun-room,  and  be  cautious  that  a  competent  seaman  h 
there  to  attend  the  relieving  tackles,  and  watch  closely  the  steer 
a.ge  of  the  ship  by  the  compass-card. 

In  frigates,  and  particularly  flushed-decked  vessels,  whose  bin- 
nacle-lights are  liable  to  be  extinguished  by  the  wind,  precaution 
should  be  taken  that  lighted  lanterns  are  kept  in  readiness  to 
supply  the  place  of  the  blown-out  lights.  On  dark  and  starless 
nights,  when  the  steersman  has  no  other  guide  to  govern  his  steer- 
age than  the  compass-card,  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that 
attention  should  be  paid  to  this  particular ;  as  in  a  number  of  in- 
stances the  accident  of  broaching-to  may  be  traced  to  the  "  blow- 
i'ng  out"  of  the  binnacle  lights,  and  carelessness  of  the  helms- 
man. It  requires  a  quick,  small  helm  to  steer  a  ship  when  scud- 
uing. 


3O7.— SCUDDING.— BROUGHT  BY  THE  LEE. 

A  ship  is  said  to  be  "  brought  by  the  lee"  when  struck  aback 
by  a  change  of  wind.  If  she  has  headway,  which  will  probably 
be  the  case,  put  the  helm  a-weather,  but  if  she  has  stern  way, 
the  contrary.  Brace  round  the  after  yards,  and  when  they  are 
full,  the  head  ones.  This  is  the  principle  of  tacking,  but  it  is  not 
thought  as  well  when  scudding  in  a  gale,  as  the  ship  might  get 
too  rapid  sternway,  which  would  be  dangerous  in  a  heavy  sea. 
As  the  object  is  to  preserve  the  headway,  the  yards  are  braced 
round  as  soon  as  possible.  If  scudding  under  the  main-topsail, 
and  it  becomes  necessary  to  reduce  sail,  take  in  the  fore-topsail 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  173 

for  the  main  being  nearer  the  centre  of  gravity,  has  less  tendency 
to  bury  the  ship,  and  she  is  consequently  more  easily  steered. 

When  scudding  under  the  main-topsail  and  foresail,  the  ship 
is  to  be  brought  by  the  wind,  and  she  should  have  a  tendency  to 
gripe,  keep  the  foresail  on  her ;  but  if  otherwise,  take  in  the  fore- 
sail, and  set  the  fore  storm-staysail ;  brace  up  the  head  yards, 
then  the  after  ones.  Watch  for  a  smooth  time,  and  ease  down 
'he  helm,  taking  care  to  meet  her  in  due  time. 

The  reason  for  bracing  up  the  head  yards  before  luffing,  is,  in 
pcudding  the  ship  has  a  rapid  headway,  and  will  mind  the  helm 
very  quickly ;  moreover,  the  sea  acting  with  violence  on  the 
quarter,  will  throw  her  up  into  the  wind,  and  unless  the  head 
yards  are  braced  up  so  as  to  prevent  that,  she  will  be  in  the  same 
situation  as  if  she  had  broached-to. 


3O8.— HEAVING-TO. 

Having  determined  from  the  known  quality  of  the  ship,  what 
sail  would  be  best  to  heave-to  under  ;  bring  by  the  wind  as  in 
the  previous  subject.  If  intending  to  lay-to  under  a  main-topsail, 
when  by  the  wind,  haul  up  and  furl  the  foresail,  down  foretop- 
mast-staysail ;  if  under  lower-staysails,  hoist  them  ;  at  the  same 
time  taking  in  the  foresail  and  main-topsail. 

The  helm  is  kept  a-lee  while  laying-to,  but  not  lashed  down, 
it  being  considered  best  to  have  a  little  steerage-way  on. 

Note. — It  is  best  to  bring  by  the  wind  under  the  square-sails,  a? 
the  shin  is  more  under  command  than  she  would  be  if  they  were 
furled. " 


309.— TAKING  IN  A  LOWER   STUDDING-SAIL— BLOW- 
ING  FRESH. 

This  is  a  much  nicer  operation  than  young  officers  generally  are 
inclined  to  admit,  and  unless  executed  with  caution  and  skill  on 
the  part  of  the  officer  "  carrying  on  the  duty"  on  deck,  the  proba- 
oility  is,  the  topmast  studding-sail  boom  will  snap  short  in  the 
iron,  and  the  sail,  swinging-boom  gear  and  all,  will  have  to 
be  recorded  in  the  log  as  "  expended."  When  not  sailing  in  a 
squadron,  and  the  yawing  of  the  ship  be  a  matter  of  minor  im- 
portance, the  officer  of  the  watch  is  recommended  to  proceed  as 
follows : — 

Place  a  steady  helmsman  at  the  wheel,  and  stand  close  to  him  • 
man  well  the  sheet,  and  lead  it  well  aft  along  the  deck ;  also  see 
14 


174  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

that  steady  hands  attend  the  tack  and  guys.  When  perfectly 
prepared,  direct  the  helmsman  with  a  "  small  helm,"  to  bring 
the  wind  gradually  on  the  opposite  quarter,  and  the  moment  the 
body  of  the  sail  begins  to  lose  the  breeze,  and  the  canvass  in- 
clines to  shiver,  lower  the  outer  halliards,  ease  the  tack,  and  haul 
in  on  the  sheet  as  rapidly  as  possible,  lowering  the  inner  halliards 
at  the  same  time. 

Note. — More  booms  are  sprung,  and  even  snapped  short  in  the 
j-on,  from  the  sudden  jerk  produced  by  lowering  the  lower  hal- 
liards, when  the  sail  is  straining  and  bellying  to  the  breeze,  than 
by  even  carrying  a  powerful  press  of  canvass.  And  here  it  may 
be  well  to  impress  upon  the  mind  of  the  young  seaman,  that  a 
judicious  management  of  the  helm,  in  almost  every  situation 
in  which  it  can  be  placed,  will  not  only  aid  the  physical  strength 
employed,  but  also  greatly  facilitate  the  service  sought. 


310.— TO  UNBEND  A  TOPSAIL  IN  A  GALE  OF  WIND. 

Those  who  know  the  value  of  minutes  to  men  perched  aloft 
in  a  perilous  position,  will  adopt  that  method  which  will  event- 
ually cost  the  least  time  and  trouble.  The  sail  should  be  first 
furled,  then  detached  from  the  yard,  and  sent  down  on  deck 
(slung  amidships)  by  the  long  tackle*  hooked  at  the  topmast-head, 
and  steadied  forward  clear  of  the  top-rim  by  the  weather  or  lee 
bowline,  according  to  the  side  on  which  the  sail  is  to  be  sent 
down.  (See  298). 

Should  the  ship  be  rolling  or  pitching  to  any  extent,  and  it  is 
not  deemed  prudent  to  lower  the  furled  sail  "  before  all, "  the  sail 
may  be  sent  down  through  lubber's  hole.  This  method  will  de- 
pend entirely  upon  the  motion  of  the  ship. 


311.— SECURING  IN  A  GALE. 

See  that  the  yards  which  have  sails  set  upon  them  are  not  un- 
necessarily sharp  up  ;  that  the  yards  whose  sails  are  furled  are 
hoisted  clear  of  the  caps ;  that  the  runners  and  tackles  are  up  in 
good  time  ;  that  all  unnecessary  strain  is  taken  off  the  rigging ; 
and  that  mats  are  carefully  placed  wherever  a  chafe  is  likely  to 
occur,  such  as  at  the  bunts  of  the  furled  sails,  and  at  the  lee 
quarters  of  the  yards,  which  are  braced  up  against  the  rigging. 

See  also  that  the  fore  and  main  sheets,  if  set,  be  checked  a 


Generally  called  the  top-burton. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  175 

ittle  ;  the  weather  lifts  and  trusses  well  up  and  taut;  jiggers  on 
topsail  lifts,  and  studding-sails  out  of  the  rigging ;  anchors  and 
guns  properly  secured  ;  and  in  a  small  vessel,  the  hatches  bat- 
fened  down,  extra  on  boats,  spare  spars.  &c.,  &c. 


312.— PREP AKATIONS   FOR  A   HURRICANE  AT   SEA. 

Endeavor  to  get  sea  room  ;  if  you  have  it,  run  before  the  wind. 
The  captain  and  first  officer  to  cunn  the  ship ;  two  or  three  of 
the  best  men  to  steer ;  the  master  to  keep  the  time,  and  the 
courses  steered,  and  have  the  ship's  place  kept  worked  up. 

Previous  to  its  coming  on,  have  a  life-line  set  up  on  each  side 
of  the  deck.  Furl  all  sails,  and  secure  them  with  studding-sail 
tacks  as  well  as  long  gaskets  ;  batten  down  the  hatches,  and 
have  the  relieving  tackles  on  the  tiller ;  down  topgallant-yards, 
and  send  topgallant-masts  on  deck,  and  flying  jib-boom  in. 
Clear  the  tops ;  gaffs  down ;  rudder-chocks  and  spare  tiller  at 
hand  ;  axes  and  hawrsers  at  hand ;  scuppers  clear ;  pumps  ready. 
Let  each  man  wear  a  belt  to  secure  himself  if  required  to  the 
most  convenient  place ;  keep  the  after  yards  square ;  head  yards 
thrown  forward,  and  have  the  fore-staysail  set  with  double 
sheets. 


313.— PREPARATIONS  FOR  A  HURRICANE  AT  AN 
ANCHOR,  (with  notes  on  the  Barometer.) 

The  ship  should  be  moored  with  a  whole  cable  each  way  if  in 
narbor,  or  if  in  an  open  roadstead,  veer  to  a  hundred  fathoms  on 
each  anchor. 

The  more  your  berth  is  out  of  the  way  of  other  ships,  the  bet- 
ter, as  vessels  driving,  or  getting  adrift,  occasion  much  damage  to 
those  who  might  otherwise  have  held  on. 

If  moored,  the  sheet  cable  to  be  bent  and  ranged,  and  the  an- 
chor let  go,  and  veer  on  the  bowers  to  the  clinches. 

All  the  ground  tackle  you  have  should  be  used.  Have  a  shackle 
abaft  the  foremost  stopper,  on  each  cable,  ready  for  slipping  if  ab- 
solutely necessary,  to  prevent  swamping,  or  from  other  causes. 

Batter  down  fore  and  aft. 

Down  topgallant  yards  and  masts. 

If  time,  unbend  sails  (topsails  and  courses,  I  mean). 

Strike  lower-yards  and  topmasts. 

Get  yards  as  mrch  fore  and  aft  as  possible. 


176 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


Jib-boom  eased  in. 

Keep  try-sails  and  fore  stay-sail  bent,  and  the  former  reefed. 
Unreeve  the  running  rigging,  that  nothing  may  be  aloft  to  hold 
the  wind. 

Clear  the  tops. 

No  boats  to  be  above  the  gunwale. 

Axes  and  hawsers  up  ready. 

If  anchors  drag,  cut  away  lower  masts — the  rigging  being 
first  cut  and  cleared.  Remember  the  stays. 


Notes  and  remarks  on  the  Barometer. 


SCALE  OP   BAROMETER  AT  PRESENT. 

As  the  force  of  the  wind  is  what  is  requir- 
ed for  service  at  sea,  the  following  would  be 
better  understood. 

Inchw. 

31.0 
30.5 
30.0 

29.5 

29.0 

28.5 
28.0 

Inches. 

30.5 
30.0 
29.7 
29.5 
29.2 
29.0 
28.5 

Qpf  f*o-||* 

....-._  Fair 

-  TTrmpftlpH 

.         fi-olo 

Rain 

-----  Storm. 

When  the  mercury  falls  in  the  Barometer,  it  announces  rain,  or  wind, 
jr  in  general  what  is  called  bad  weather ;  and,  on  the  contrary,  when  il 
rises,  it  announces  fair  weather. 

When  the  mercury  falls  in  frosty  weather,  either  snow,  or  a  thaw  maj' 
be  expected ;  but  if  it  rises  in  the  winter  with  a  north  or  east  wind,  it  gei;« 
erally  forebodes  a  frost 

If  the  mercury  sinks  slowly,  we  may  expect  rain,  which  will  probably  be 
of  some  continuance ;  but  if  it  rises  gradually,  we  may  expect  fine  weather 
that  will  be  lasting. 

When  the  Barometer  is  fluctuating,  rising  and  falling  suddenly,  the 
weather  may  be  expected  to  be  like  it — changeable. 

When  the  mercury  falls  very  low,  there  will  be  much  rain ;  but  if  ita 
fall  is  low  and  sudden,  a  high  wind  frequently  follows. 

When  an  extraordinary  fall  of  the  mercury  happens,  without  any  re- 
markable change  near  at  hand,  there  is  some  probability  of  a  storm  at  a 
distance. 

In  very  warm  weather  the  fall  of  the  mercury  indicates  thunder. 

The  Barometer  will  descend  sometimes  as  an  indication  of  wind  only 
find  sometimes  rise  when  the  wind  is  to  the  north  or  east 


OR    YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 

A  north-east  wind  generally  causes  the  Barometer  to  rise,  and  it  is  gen- 
erally low  with  a  south-west  wind. 

An  extraordinary  fall  of  the  mercury  will  sometimes  take  place  in  sum- 
mer previous  to  heavy  showers,  attended  with  thunder ;  but  in  spring,  au- 
tumn, and  winter,  it  indicates  violent  winds. 

The  mercury  is  higher  in  cold  than  in  warm  weather,  and  lower  at  noon 
and  midnight  than  at  any  other  period  of  the  day. 

The  mercury  generally  falls  at  the  approach  of  new  and  full  moon,  and 
rises  at  the  quadratures. 

Before  high  tides,  there  is  almost  always  a  great  fall  of  the  mercury; 
this  takes  place  ol'tener  at  the  full  than  at  the  new  moon. 

The  greatest  changes  of  the  Barometer  commonly  take  place  during 
clear  weather  with  a  north  wind,  and  the  smallest  risings  during  cloudy, 
rainy,  or  windy  weather,  with  a  south  or  nearly  south  wind. 

The  words  generally  engraved  on  the  plate  of  the  Barometer,  rathei 
serve  to  mislead,  than  to  inform ;  for  the  changes  of  weather  depend  rather 
on  the  rising  and  falling  of  the  mercury,  than  on  its  standing  at  any  par- 
ticular height. 

When  the  mercury  is  as  high  as  "  fair,"  and  the  surface  of  it  is  concave, 
(which  is  the  case  when  it  begins  to  descend,)  it  very  often  rains ;  and  on 
the  contrary,  when  the  mercury  is  opposite  "  rain,"  and  the  surface  of  it  is 
convex,  (which  is  the  case  when  it  begins  to  ascend,)  fair  weather  may  be 
expected.  These  circumstances  not  being  duly  attended  to,  is  the  princi- 
pal cause  that  many  people  have  not  a  proper  confidence  in  this  instru- 
ment. 

For  sea-service,  it  would  be  as  well  to  read  the  Barometer  off  three 
rimes  a  day  at  least — at  8  A.  M.,  noon,  and  8  p.  M. — and  oftener  if  bad 
weather. 

In  Europe,  if  the  alteration  in  the  quicksilver  should  be  in  as  great  a 

Eroportion  as  six-tenths  of  an  inch  to  twenty-four  hours,  sudden  but  not 
isting  changes  of  weather  may  be  expected. 

If  the  alteration  should  be  gradual,  probably  in  the  proportion  of  two  or 
three-tenths  to  twenty-four  hours,  the  weather  indicated  will  be  likely  to 
.ask 

One-fifth  of  the  variation  of  the  Barometer,  in  any  climate,  in  twenty- 
four  hours,  may  be  considered  as  an  indication  of  sudden  change. 

If  wind  should  follow  rain,  the  wind  may  be  expected  to  increase. 

Ram  following  wind  is  likely  to  lull  it,  and  the  wind  may  be  expected 
to  abate. 


178  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR. 


314.— THE  FOREMAST   IS   CARRIED  AWAY. 

Hard  up  the  helm,  brace  in  the  after  yards,  hoist  the  mam- 
staysail,  take  in  after  sail,  and  endeavor  to  get  before  the  wind ; 
if  successful,  keep  her  so,  by  veering  a  range  of  cable  over  the 
stern,  and  lashing  it  amidships ;  if  not,  which  is  most  likely  to 
be  the  case,  and  should  carry  away  the  main-topmast  also,  lay 
her  to  under  the  main-staysail.  If  the  main-topmast  should 
stand,  clew-up  the  main-topsail  immediately,  get  the  breast  back- 
stays over  the  topsail-yard,  and  set  them  up  as  far  forward  as 
possible,  by  means  of  tackles.  Bend  hawsers  on  the  wreck,  clear 
it  away,  especially  the  lanyards  of  the  lee-rigging,  so  as  to  pre- 
serve the  channels  and  chain-bolts,  and  endeavor  to  haul  it 
aboard.  Send  down  the  after  yards  and  spars,  and  save  as  much 
of  the  wreck  as  possible.  Rig  a  jury-foremast,  fitting  spars  and 
sails  to  the  best  advantage ;  when  the  jury-mast  is  rigged,  reeve 
a  main-topmast  stay,  of  a  hawser,  and  take  the  breast-backstays 
aft  again,  after  which  cut  clear  of  the  wreck,  if  not  required 


315.— TO  RIG  A   JURY-MAST. 

Take  a  spare  spar,  the  largest  on  board,  a  main-topmast  for 
instance,  and  launch  the  head  over  the  night-heads,  the  heel 
resting  against  the  stump  of  the  old  mast ;  put  on  the  cross-trees 
and  bolsters,  fit  the  rigging  and  stays  from  hawsers,  and  hook  a 
couple  of  tackles  from  the  jury-mast  head — which  take  to  the 
sides  and  haul  taut ;  hook  another,  which  take  well  aft ;  lash  the 
heel  of  the  stump  to  prevent  slipping,  and  raise  the  mast  with 
the  after  purchase,  tending  the  stays  and  pendant-tackles ;  when 
up,  reeve  the  lanyards,  set  up  the  rigging  and  stays.  Gleet  and 
lash  the  heel  securely.  Ship  the  cap,  send  up  a  topgallant-mast 
for  a  topmast,  fit  a  topsail  yard  for  a  lower  yard,  and  a  topgal- 
.ant  yard  for  a  topsail  yard,  and  so  on. 


3 16.— ACCIDENTS    TO    TILLER. 

In  the  event  of  losing  a  mast. 

Should  the  tiller  break  in  the  rudder  head,  the  rudder  must 
immediately  be  chocked,  that  its  stump  may  be  taken  out  and 
the  spare  tiller  fitted,  which,  together  with  the  chock,  should  al 
ways  be  placed  in  readiness  for  immediate  use.  While  the  rud- 
der is  useless,  the  ship  must  be  hove-to  till  it  is  repaired,  or  some 
contrivance  prepared  to  supply  its  place. 


OR   YOITNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  179 

317.— THE   MAIN-MAST  IS   CARRIED  AWAY. 

Hard-up  the  helm,  secure  the  mizen  topmast  if  it  still  stands, 
dear  the  wreck,  save  as  much  as  possible,  and  rig  a  jury  main- 
mast, as  above. 

318.— THE  BOWSPRIT  IS   CARRIED  AWAY. 

Hard-up  the  helm,  shiver  the  after  yards,  take  in  after  sail, 
and  get  the  ship  before  the  wind  ;  take  the  fore-topmast  breast- 
backstays  forward  over  the  top-sail  yard,  hook  the  pendant  tack- 
les and  set  them  up  to  the  cat-heads  ;  unreeve  the  main-topmast 
and  spring-stays,  and  set  them  up  to  the  foretopsaii  sheet  bitts ; 
hitch  a  hawser  to  the  foretopmast  head,  take  this  in  through  one 
of  the  hawse-holes,  and  set  it  up  on  the  gun-deck.  While  this  is 
performing,  let  some  hands  be  reducing  sail,  sending  down  top- 
gallant yards  and  masts  if  they  are  aloft,  and  clearing  the  wreck; 
rig  a  jury-bowsprit  of  a  spare  main-topmast  or  a  jib-boom. 


319.— A  TOPMAST  IS   CARRIED  AWAY. 

Get  the  ship  before  the  wind  immediately,  and  reduce  sail ; 
hook  the  top-blocks  and  reeve  hawsers  through  them ;  bend  the 
lee  one  to  the  topsail-yard,  which  is  probably  hanging  to  leeward 
of  the  topmast,  with  the  wreck.  Clew  up  the  topsail  if  practica- 
ble, and  cut  the  parrel  if  it  can  be  got  at.  The  yard  now  hangs 
clear  of  the  topmast ;  bend  the  weather  hawser  to  the  wreck  of 
the  topmast ;  have  guys  from  the  weather  side  of  the  deck — clear 
away  the  lanyards  of  the  rigging  and  stays,  also  the  rigging  lead- 
ing to  the  topmast  head,  and  send  it  down  on  deck ;  hook  the 
yard-tackles,  slack  the  braces  and  trusses,  bouse  the  lower  yards 
forward,  and  send  down  the  stump ;  get  the  topsail-yard  down  in 
the  lee-gangway,  and  repair  its  damages  while  the  spare  topmast 
is  got  aloft  and  secured  by  the  old  rigging ;  send  aloft  the  yard, 
?et  the  topsails,  and  bring  her  to  her  course  again. 


32O.— THE  JIB-BOOM  IS    CARRIED  AWAY. 

Mind  the  weather  helm,  hoist  the  foretopmast-staysail,  and 
get  in  the  wreck  by  the  fore  pendant-tackles,  hooked  to  the  fore- 
stay  ;  reeve  a  heel-rope  and  get  in  the  stump  ;  point  another  boom, 
and  rig  it  with  the  old  rigging,  if  sound,  if  not,  with  spare  ropea 
or  hawsers. 


180  THE   KEDGE-AJNCHOR; 

321.— THE  FOREMAST  IS  SPRUNG  NEAR  THE 
HOUNDS  OR  BIBBS. 

Get  the  ship  before  the  wind  immediately,  reduce  sail,  and  get 
all  the  strain  off  the  foremast ;  secure  the  main-topmast. 

Send  down  topgallant  yards  and  masts ;  hook  the  jeers, 
and  settle  the  fore  yard  ;  hook  top-blocks,  reeve  top-pendanta 
and  house  topmasts,  allowing  the  heel  to  come  considerably 
below  the  defect ;  fish  the  foremast  with  side  fishes,  and  the  heel 
of  the  topmast,  wedging  the  lashings.  Clap  a  lashing  around 
the  doublings  of  the  mast-head,  having  chocks  between  ;  keep  the 
pendant-tackles  rove,  turn  in  the  rigging  afresh,  and  set  it  up ; 
wedge  the  topmast  in  the  cap,  and  sway  the  fore  yard  close  up 
to  the  heel  of  the  topmast ;  reef  the  head  sails  to  diminish  the 
strain  if  required. 


322.— THE  FOREMAST  AND  BOWSPRIT  CARRIED 

AWAY. 

Proceed  as  in  314,  the  remarks  being  applied  to  the  present 
case  ;  lay-to  under  the  main-staysail,  to  leeward  of  the  wreck,  and 
repair  damages  on  board,  in  the  best  possible  manner ;  rig  a  jury 
foremast  and  bowsprit,  and  then  cut  clear,  having  saved  as  many 
spars  and  sails,  and  as  much  rigging  as  possible ;  if  the  ship  lay  a 
easily  by  the  wreck,  it  would  probably  be  well  to  ride  by  it,  until 
the  gale  abates.  If  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  veer,  it  might  be 
done  as  before  mentioned,  with  the  assistance  of  the  mainsail, 
making  use  of  the  wreck  as  a  drag,  by  taking  the  hawser  a.s 
a  spring  to  the  quarter. 


323.— THE  BOWSPRIT  IS  SPRUNG. 

Up  helm,  shiver  the  after  yards,  take  in  after  sail,  and  get  the 
ship  before  the  wind ;  haul  down  the  head  sails,  come  up  the  main 
topmast  stays,  and  set  them  up  on  deck ;  get  the  fore-topmast 
breast-backstays  forward,  hook  the  fore  pendant  tackles,  and  set 
them  up  to  the  cat-head  ;  come  up  all  the  head  stays,  and  rig  in 
the  head  booms  ;  send  down  upper  yards  and  masts,  take  the  fore- 
topmast  stays  through  the  hawse-hole,  and  set  them  up. 

Note. — All  strain  now  being  off  the  bowsprit,  fish  it  with  the 
regular  fishes ;  if  there  are  none  on  board,  use  the  jib-boom ;  if 
thought  sufficiently  strong  to  bear  the  strain  of  the  head  stays, 
get  them  in  their  proper  places,  but  if  not,  get  stays  out  merely 
to  make  sail. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


324.— A  TOPMAST  IS  SPRUNG  NEAR  THE  LOWER  CAP. 

Get  the  ship  before  the  wind  and  reduce  sail ;  if  a  spare  topmas! 
is  not  to  be  had,  the  old  one  may  be  housed  far  enough  to  allow 
the  spring  to  come  some  feet  below  the  cap,  setting  the  lower 
yard  as  in  the  last  case  ;  fit  a  larger  chock  between  the  topmast 
and  lowermast  head,  and  clap  stout  lashings  around,  above,  and 
below  the  defect  part,  wredging  them  well ;  reef  the  foresail  so  that 
it  can  be  set  with  the  yard  in  its  present  place,  and  also  the  top- 
sail, to  lessen  the  strain  on  the  weak  spar. 

Note. — Sheep-shank  the  rigging,  if  required,  before  setting  up. 


325.— TO  SEND    ALOFT  A  TOPMAST,   AND  A   HEAVY 

SEA    ON. 

After  the  topmast  is  pointed  and  rigged,  hook  the  burtons  to 
stout  strops,  at  the  rim  of  the  top  on  each  side ;  hitch  hawsers  to 
the  mast-head,  leading  one  through  a  larger  block  at  the  fore- 
topmast  head,  and  another  aft  through  one  at  the  mizen  ;  haul 
the  burtons  and  hawsers  taut ;  sway  aloft  the  topmast,  slacking 
up  as  it  goes  aloft ;  when  ridded,  steady  the  topmast  until  the 
rigging  and  stays  are  set  up. 


326.— THE  GAMMONING  CARRIED  AWAY. 

Proceed  as  in  323,  until  all  strain  is  off  the  bowsprit ;  put  a 
stout  chock  on  the  bowsprit,  and  pass  the  end  of  the  messenger 
out  of  a  hawse-hole,  over  the  chock,  in  through  the  other  hawse- 
hole,  and  bitt  it ;  take  the  other  end  to  the  capstan,  and  get  the 
bowsprit  well  down  in  its  bed  by  the  messenger  and  bob-stays  ; 
come  up  the  old  gammoning,  and  pass  a  new  one. 

Note. — Iron  gammonings  are  used  for  all  vessels,  by  new  regu- 
lation. (See  Rigging  Table.} 


327.— A  LOWER  CAP  SPLITS. 

Take  all  sail  off  the  mast,  pass  a  stout  lashing  around  the 
topmast  and  lower  mast-head,  which  wedge ;  after  which  woold 
and  wedge  the  cap. 


182  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


328.— THE   TRESTLE-TREES  ARE  SPRUNG 

Get  the  ship  before  the  wind,  take  all  sail  off  the  mast,  send 
down  topgallant  yards  and  masts,  housing1  the  others ;  hook  the 
top-blocks,  reeve  top-pendants,  hook  top-tackles,  and  bouse  them 
well  taut,  taking  all  strain  off  the  fid  ;  pass  several  stout  lash- 
ings around  the  heel  of  the  topmast  and  lower  mast-head, 
cleating  them  to  prevent  their  slipping ;  make  sail  as  the  mast 
will  bear. 


329.— A  LOWER  YARD  IS  CARRIED  AWAY  IN  THE 

SLINGS. 

If  the  fore-yard,  get  the  ship  before  the  wind,  haul  up  th-s 
foresail,  clew  up  the  topsail,  take  in  all  sail  on  the  mizen-mas% 
unreeve  the  foretopsail  sheets  and  board  them  on  deck;  bring  her 
on  your  course  again,  and  haul  the  bowlines. 

If  a  main-yard,  keep  on  the  course,  haul  up  the  mainsail,  clew 
up  the  topsail,  unreeve  the  sheets,  board  them  on  deck,  and  haul 
the  bowlines  well  out ;  having  proceeded  thus  far,  get  stout  strops 
around  the  inner  quarter  of  the  yard,  and  hook  the  pendant- 
tackles  to  bolts  in  the  lower  cap,  and  these  strops ;  if  the  pendant- 
tackles  are  not  at  hand,  use  the  burtons. 

Lash  the  j  ear-blocks,  reeve  the  jears,  and  send  the  yard  down 
by  the  jears,  lifts,  and  pendant-tackles  ;  fish  the  lower  yards  im- 
mediately, if  it  can  be  done  ;  if  it  cannot,  rig  a  topsail  yard  for  a 
lower  yard. 


330.— A  TOPSAIL  YARD  IS  CARRIED  AAV  AY. 

If  it  is  the  fore,  reduce  after  sail ;  mind  the  weather  helm,  and 
keep  the  ship  on  her  course.  If  it  is  the  main,  stand  on,  clew  up 
the  sail,  unbend  it,  and  get  it  into  the  top  the  best  manner  possi- 
ble. Get  a  strop  around  the  topmast-head,  above  the  eyes  of  the 
rigging,  to  which  hook  a  large  single  block,  and  reeve  a  hawser 
through  it.  If  the  yard  is  completely  broken  off,  bend  the  haw- 
ser which  is  not  secured  by  the  parrel,  bend  on  guys,  and  send  it 
down ;  then  send  down  the  other  piece.  If  it  still  remains  together, 
bend  on  the  slings,  stop  out  to  leeward,  have  a  tripping  line  and 
rolling  ropes,  and  get  it  fore  and  aft  on  deck  ;  take  off  all  the  old 
rigging,  which  put  on  to  the  spare  yard  in  the  chains ;  then  bend 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS    ASSISTANT. 

on  the  hawser,  sway  aloft,  and  cross  it  as  in  fitting  the  ship  out, 
have  rolling  ropes  around  it  as  it  goes  aloft ;  bend  the  topsail, 
and  set  it. 


331.— THE  SHIP  LEAKS  FASTER  THAN  THE  PUMPS 
CAN  FREE  HER. 

Find  out  where  the  leak  is ;  thrum  an  old  sail  very  thickly, 
and  have  stout  ropes  attached  to  each  leech  ;  make  it  up,  take  it 
under  the  bowsprit,  and  get  the  ropes  on  their  respective  sides ; 
heave  the  ship  too  ;  when  her  headway  eases,  drop  the  sail  over- 
board ;  after  it  has  sunk  beneath  the  keel,  break  the  stops,  haul 
aft  on  the  ropes  attached  to  each  clew ;  when  the  body  of  the 
sail  is  over  the  leak,  haul  well  taut  all  the  ropes  attached  to  the 
leeches  and  the  head,  which  will  prevent  the  sail  from  going  aJ't 
when  going  ahead  ;  make  sail,  and  continue  pumping. 


332.— THE  PUMPS  ARE  CHOKED 

Hoist  them  out,  and  clear  them. 


333.— A  SHOT  GETS  LOOSE  IN  A  GUN  SECURED  FOB 

A  GALE. 


Prick  the  cartridge  well  down,  and  pour  vinegar  enough  in  the 
touch-hole  to  drown  it. 


184 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 


334.— TO  THROW  A  LOWER  DECK  GUN  OVERBOARD 

Fit  a  chock  in  the  port-sill,  and  over  the  pomelion  of  the  gun, 
to  which,  from  the  housing-bolt,  hook  a  stout  tackle ;  unlash  the 
muzzle,  heave  up  the  breech,  and  put  in  the  bed  and  coin ;  un- 
reeve  the  breeching,  throw  back  the  cap  squares,  and  place  cap- 
stan bars  under  the  breech  to  ease  it,  and  prevent  the  gun  from 
slipping  back  into  the  carriage  again;  man  the  side  and  port 
tackles,  watch  the  roll,  trice  up  the  port  briskly,  run  out,  and  throw 
the  gun  clear  of  the  carriage,  by  the  breech-tackles  and  capstan- 
bars  ;  shut  in  the  port  immediately 


PART  VI. 


335.— TO  TURN  REEFS  OUT  OF  THE  TOPSAILS 
AND  COURSES. 

Haul  taut  the  reef-pendants,  and  set  taut  the  lower  lifts  ; 
ease  off  the  bowlines ;  ease  a  little  of  the  tacks  and  sheets  of 
the  courses,  and  settle  a  few  feet  of  the  topsail  halliards ;  haul 
taut  the  reef  tackles  and  buntlines,  round  in  a  little  of  the  weath- 
er braces,  to  clear  the  points  of  the  lee-rigging ;  commence  Cast- 
ing off  the  points  of  the  bunt,  taking  care  to  leave  none  tied,  and 
taming  one  reef  out  at  a  time  ;  ease  away  both  earings  together  ; 
overhaul  the  rigging,  get  the  tacks  on  board  ;  sheet  home,  hoist 
the  topsails  up  to  a  taut  leech,  out  bowlines  and  make  sail. 


336 THE  RUDDER  IS  CARRIED  AWAY— TO  FIT 

ANOTHER. 

Man  the  braces  immediatly ;  take  in  after  sails,  and  let  the 
ship  run  a  little  free  ;  rouse  up  a  cable,  clove-hitch  a  hawser  over 
the  cable,  and  then  pay  it  overboard ;  veer  away  about  twenty 
fathoms,  and  lash  it  amidships  on  the  taffrail ;  lead  the  ends  of 
the  hawsers  through  large  blocks,  lashed  to  the  quarters,  and 
clap  tackles  on  them ;  steer  the  ship  by  this  contrivance,  until 
a  rudder  can  be  constructed.  (See  Plate.) 

Take  a  spare  topmast,  cut  it  the  length  of  the  rudder,  enlarge 
the  fid-hole  to  receive  the  tiller,  if  not  already  large  enough  ; 
take  a  spare  cap  and  cut  away  the  after  part,  so  as  to  fit  the 
stern  post  at  the  waters'  edge,  or  a  little  below  ;  pass  the  topmast 
through  the  round  hole  in  the  cap ;  take  a  spare  jib-boom  and  cut 


186  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

it  in  two ;  the  pieces  are  to  be  bolted  on  abaft  the  topmast,  pftei 
squaring  the  edges  which  will  come  in  contact  with  each  other, 
and  cutting  a  score  in  the  forward  part  of  the  jib-boom,  next  to 
the  topmast,  to  allow  the  cap  to  have  room  to  play  in  ;  plank  the 
whole  over  with  stout  oak  plank,  and  bolt  in  a  fish  abaft  all ; 
drive  an  eye-bolt  into  the  heel  of  the  topmast  (now  the  head  of 
the  rudder),  and  have  kentledge  attached  to  the  other  end  to  sink 
t ;  take  an  anchor-stock  and  square  two  of  the  edges  ;  cut  away 
a  circular  score  in  each,  for  them  to  join  together  around  the  top 
mast,  below  the  squares,  and  thus  serve  as  an  upper  gudgeon ; 
drive  the  anchor-stock  hoops  on  the  rudder-head,  to  prevent  split- 
ting. 

Place  the  rudder  on  a  stage,  near  the  taffrail ;  pass  a  couple 
of  hawsers  aft  through  the  hawse-holes,  and  secure  them  to  the 
heel  of  the  rudder ;  have  tackles  on  their  inner  ends ;  have  two 
more  hawsers  or  parts  of  hawsers  passed  from  forward  aft,  under 
everything,  one  each  side,  and  clinch  them  to  the  quarter  eye-boltu 
in  me  cap ;  have  a  pendant  round  as  described  in  another  place ; 
launch  overboard  and  rouse  up  on  the  head  rope ;  heave  in  upon 
the  hawsers,  and  bring  the  rudder  to  the  stern  post,  perpendic- 
ularly ;  secure  the  cap  to  the  stern  post  and  the  anchor-stock, 
around  the  rudder  head ;  ship  the  tiller,  reeve  the  wheel-ropes, 
and  rouse  in  the  cable.  The  kentledge  may  remain  to  keep  the 
rudder  perpendicular,  or  may  be  taken  off*,  as  the  case  may  re- 
quire. 

Note. — See  improved  sketch  or  plan  of  temporary  rudder. 


337.— A  SHIP  ON  FIRE  AT  SEA. 

Hard  up  the  helm,  haul  up  the  courses,  up  spanker,  get  the 
ship  before  the  wind,  and  reduce  sail  to  topsails;  beat  to  quarters, 
close  all  the  ports,  muster  the  men  at  their  stations,  call  away  the 
firemen,  under  charge  of  their  proper  officers  ;  let  a  part  fill  the 
engine  and  wet  the  sails,  while  the  other  part  finds  out  where 
the  fire  is,  and  endeavor  to  extinguish  it  if  possible — for  which 
purpose  use  bedding ;  putting  over  the  gratings  and  tarpaulins. 
The  gunner  and  his  mates  should  be  in  the  magazine,  ready  to 
drown  the  powder  at  a  moment's  notice  ;  let  the  carpenters  rig 
and  fetch  the  pumps,  and  the  spar-deck  divison  clear  away  the 
boats,  equip  them,  and  get  them  ready  for  hoisting  out ;  in  the 
above  case,  the  fire  is  supposed  to  be  below,  and  the  helm  is  put 
up,  because  wind  is  less  felt  •  the  ports  are  shut  in,  and  the  tar- 
paulins put  on,  as  they  would  afford  air  to  the  fire;  and  the  cour- 
ses hauled  up,  because  they  strike  a  current  of  air  down  the 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  137 

hatchways,  and  are  also  liable  to  catch.     If  the  fire  is  on  deck, 
and  forward,  keep  before  the  wind  ;  if  aft,  haul  close  on  a  wind. 


338.— A  SHIP  ON  HER  BEAM  ENDS. 

When  the  severity  of  the  squall  is  felt,  hard  up  the  helm  and 
let  fly  everything;  but  if  she  goes  on  her  beam  ends  before  she 
can  be  got  off  sufficiently  to  diminish  the  effects  of  the  wind,  the 
best  way  will  be  to  cut  away  the  mizen-mast  before  the  headway 
ceases,  which  falling  over  the  lee  quarter,  will  act  as  a  drag,  to 
pay  her  off;  should  she  not  right  when  before  the  wind,  if  there 
De  an  anchorage,  and  the  cable  is  bent,  get  the  drag  to  the  lee- 
bow,  by  means  of  a  spring,  and  rouse  in ;  the  wind  acting  on 
the  flat  deck,  and  under  side  of  the  sails,  will  probably  right  her, 
As  a  last  resort,  cut  away  the  masts — great  decision  and  rapidity 
of  execution  is  necessary,  as  the  ship  must  go  down  a  short  time 
after  she  goes  over. 


339.— WIND  FREE,  ALL  SAIL  SET,  STRUCK  BY  A 

SQUALL. 

Up  helm,  let  fly  the  main-sheets,  spanker-outhaul,  staysail-sheets 
and  halliards,  royal  and  topgallant  studding-sail-halliards,  royal 
and  topgallant-sheets,  and  halliards  ;  haul  up  the  mainsail,  brail 
up  the  spanker,  down  staysails,  and  order  the  topmen  to  haul  in  the 
studding-sails  and  stow  them.  When  before  the  wind,  right  the 
helm,  clew  down  the  topsails,  haul  up  the  buntlines,  and  out  reef- 
tackles,  and  reef  if  necessary ;  clear  up  the  decks  as  fast  as  pos- 
sible. 

Note. — In  ordinary  cases,  sheets  and  tacks  should  be  eased  off, 
for  if  they  should  get  foul  when  running  through  their  blocks  fast, 
spars  might  be  endangered  ;  but  when  struck  by  a  severe  squall, 
the  effect  of  the  sails  must  be  diminished  as  soon  as  possible,  to 
save  the  masts,  and  pre/ent  her  from  going  over. 


340.— STRUCK  BY  A  SQUALL  ON  A  LEE  SHORE. 

If  sail  cannot  be  reduced,  luff-too  and  shake  her ;  fill  away 
again,  gather  headway^  and  luff  again. 
15 


[gg  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

341 STRUCK  BY  A  SQUALL  UNDER  WHOLE  TOP- 
SAILS AND  COURSERS. 

Up  helm,  let  fly  the  topsail  halliards,  main-sheet,  spanker  out- 
haul,  and  lee-topsail  sheets ;  haul  up  the  mainsail,  brail  up  the 
spanker,  clew  up  the  topsails  to  leeward,  then  to  windward  ;  right 
the  helm,  and  reef  if  necessary. 


312.— ON  A  WIND,  UNDER  WHOLE  TOPSAILS— PART 
THE  WEATHER  MAIN-TOPSAIL  BRACE. 

Haul  up  the  mainsail,  let  go  the  lee  main-brace,  haul  forward 
on  the  lee-maintop-bowline,  and  aft  on  the  weather  main-brace  ; 
luff-too,  and  when  the  main-topsail  shivers,  clew  it  down,  haul 
up  the  buntlines,  out  reef  tackles,  and  steady  the  yard  by  the  bow- 
line, until  a  new  brace  can  be  rove  ;  a  burton  might  be  hooked 
to  steady  the  yard. 


343.— THE  JIB-DO WNHAUL  PARTS. 

Un toggle  the  fore-topgallarit-bowlines,  and  knot  them  together, 
above  the  first  hank,  between  the  stay  and  jib-halliards,  which 
use  for  a  downhaul,  until  you  reeve  a  new  one. 


344,— TO  CHASE. 

A  vessel  that  chases  another  should  have  the  advantage  in 
point  of  sailing,  because  if  the  ship  chased  is  as  good  a  sailer  as 
the  chaser,  the  latter  can  never  come  up  to  her,  if  she  manoeu- 
vred equally  as  well. 

In  order  to  determine  whether  your  ship  sails  faster  than  your 
adversary,  get  upon  the  same  tack,  under  the  same  sail,  and  keep 
upon  the  same  course  with  her  ;  set  her  exactly  with  a  compass, 
and  if  your  ship  sails  best,  the  sail  will  soon  draw  a  point  more 
aft;  if  she  has  the  advantage  she  will  in  a  short  time  draw  more 
forward,  and  if  both  sail  equally  well,  she  will  remain  at  the  same 
point 


UK  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  J$g 

345.— TO  CHASE  TO  WINDWARD. 


To  chase  to  windward,  run  upon  the  same  course  with  the 
enemy,  until  he  is  brought  perpendicularly  to  the  same  course ; 
when  tack  and  continue  the  second  board,  until  he  is  again 
brought  perpendicularly  to  the  same  course;  always  continue 
this  manoeuvre  by  tacking  every  time  the  chase  is  a-beam,  on 
either  board,  and  she  will  come  in  the  shortest  method  by  your 
superiority  of  sailing.  Should  the  chase  pass  the  point,  when  the 
chase  bears  a-beam,  he  must  go  about  with  all  dispatch. 

Note. — The  chase  goes  about  as  soon  as  the  chase  is  exactly 
a-beam,  because  at  that  time,  the  distance  between  them  is  the 
east  possible  upon  the  different  boards  they  hold. 


3 4G.— OBSERVATIONS  FOR   A   SHIP  TO  WINDWARD, 
WHICH  IS  CHASED. 


The  weather  ship  will  always  be  joined,  since 
it  is  granted  that  she  does  not  sail  as  well  as  the 
pursuer,  it  will  be  then  to  her  advantage  to  keep 
constantly  on  the  same  tack,  without  losing  time 
to  heave  about,  for  tacking  cannot  be  so  favora- 
ble to  her  as  to  her  adversary,  whose  sailing  is 
superior. 


190  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

If  the  chaser  mistakingly  stands  on  and  tacks  in  the  wake  of 
the  chase,  the  best  course  for  the  latter  to  pursue  is  to  heave  about 
and  pass  to  windward  of  him  on  the  other  tack,  unless  you  sup- 
pose your  vessel  would  have  a  superiority  in  going  large  ;  for  ii 
the  chaser  persists  in  tacking  in  the  wake  of  the  other  ship,  the 
chase  will  be  much  prolonged. 


347.— TO  CHASE  TO  LEEWARD. 

If  the  chaser  keeps 
away  to  cut  the  chase 
off,  and  keeps  contin- 
ually on  that  course, 
they  will  eventually 
come  together  where 
the  two  courses  inter- 
sect. This  will  be 
exactly  executed  by 
the  ship  in  chase,  if 
in  the  course  she  has 
taken,  she  keeps  the 
chase  continually  up- 
on the  same  degree  of  the  compass  as  at  the  beginning  of  the  pur- 
suit. This  principle  applies  equally  to  all  the  courses  which 
the  retreating  ship  pursues,  for  if  overtaken,  it  can  only  be  accom- 
plished by  keeping  in  a  straight  line,  if  the  chase  takes  another 
course  than  that  which  keeps  the  two  ships  upon  the  same 
point.  These  are  the  only  considerations  to  be  made,  and  they 
may  !»e  corrected,  by  observing  the  bearings  by  an  azimuth  com- 
pos. 


348.—TO  WINDWARD  OF  AN  ENEMY,  WITHIN  PISTOL 
SHOT. — The  weather  main  rigging  is  shot  away — both  ships  with 
main  topsails  to  the  mast. 

Up  helm,  fill  away,  and  run  the  enemy  on  board,  before  she 
gets  headvvaj-  to  prevent  it. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  ]9| 

349.— WIND    ON    THE    QUARTER,    ALL    SAIL    SET- 
BRING  BY  UNDER  DOUBLE-REEFED  TOPSAILS. 

Reduce  sail  regularly,  and  clew  down  the  topsails  ;  luff  enough 
to  reef,  hoist  the  topsails,  and  haul  close  on  a  wind. 


350.— WIND  ON  THE  QUARTER,  ALL  SAIL  SET— 
BRING-TO  ON  THE  OTHER  TACK,  UNDER  DOUBLE 
REEFED  TOPSAILS. 

Reduce  sail  to  topsails,  station  the 
crew  forward,  with  one  watch  of  top- 
men  aloft  to  reef;  brail  up  the  spanker, 
up  helm,  brace  in,  and  when  before 
the  wind,  clew  down  the  topsails,  haul 
out  reef-tackles,  and  up  buntlines  ;  let 
the  men  lay  out  and  reef;  wind  on  the 
quarter,  brace  up  cross-jack  yard,  and 
haul  out  the  spanker ;  as  she  comes-too. 

brace  up  the  fore  yard,  and  meet  her  with  the  helm  and  jib-sheet 

when  coming- too,  a  good  opportunity  will  be  offered  for  reefing ; 

when  reefed,  hoist  away  the  topsails,  letting  the  main  go  a-back, 

the  others  fill. 

Note. — Having  a  dismasted  ship  in  tow,  heave-to,  make  fast  the 
stream  cable  to  the  mainmast  of  the  ship,  and  take  it  in  at  the 
weather  gangway,  clinching  it  around  the  mainmast ;  then  make 
fast  a  stout  hawser  as  a  spring,  and  snatch  it  to  a  block  lashed 
amidships  on  the  taffrail,  so  that  the  ship  may  either  ride  on  the 
weather  quarter,  or  be  roused  astern.  In  case  of  veering,  rouse  in 
upon  the  spring,  and  the  manoeuvre  will  be  performed  with  more 
( ertainty.  After  it  is  executed,  the  tow-rope  must  be  shifted  to 
the  opposite  gangway,  by  means  of  a  spring,  (fee. 


351.— HOW  TO  GET  THE  ANCHORS  OFF  THE  BOWS. 

Hook  the  fore  pendant-tackle ;  single  the  shank-painters,  and 
cet  them  taut  with  the  pendant-tackles ;  come  up  the  shank-lash- 
ings, put  the  shoes  between  the  bills  and  bows,  by  capstan-bars, 
and  then  by  the  shank-painters  as  far  as  necessary. 

Single  and  set  taut  cat-head  stoppers,  and  then  unlash  the 
rings. 


[92  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


352.— TO    ANCHOR  HEAD  TO   WIND— WIND  FREE 

See  that  the  officers  and  men  are  at  their  stations,  and  the 
strictest  silence  preserved,  as  the  ship  nears  her  berth ;  take  in 
all  the  studding  sails,  get  the  burtons  off  the  yards,  and  the  jiggero 
off  the  topgallant  yards ;  send  the  booms  and  sails  down  from 
aloft ;  man  the  fore  clew-garnets,  buntlines  and  leechlines  ;  the 
mainsail  is  hauled  up  as  the  ship  is  going  free  ;  topgallant  and 
royal  clewlines  ;  lay  aloft  and  stand  by  to  furl  the  sails  snug,  and 
square  the  yards  by  the  lifts  and  braces  ;  have  hands  by  the  fore 
tack  and  sheet,  topgallant  and  royal  sheets,  halliards,  weather 
braces,  and  bowlines  ;  up  foresail,  in  topgallant-sails  and  royals  : 
furl  the  sails  snug,  and  square  the  yards  by  the  lifts  and  braces, 
hauling  taut  the  halliards.  Man  the  topsail-clewlines  and  bunt- 
lines,  weather  braces,  jib-downhaul,  and  spanker-outhaul ;  attend 
the  sheets,  halliards,  and  spanker-brails,  ease  down  the  helm, 
haul  down  the  jib,  haul  out  the  spanker,  and  when  the  topsail 
lifts,  clear  away  the  sheets,  and  clew  them  up ;  then  let  go  tho 
halliards,  clew  down,  and  square  away  the  yards  immediately  j 
haul  aft  the  spanker-sheet,  and  when  the  headway  ceases,  stream 
the  buoy,  stand  clear  of  the  cable ;  when  she  begins  to  go  astern, 
let  go  the  anchor,  brail  up  the  spanker,  crotch  the  boom,  haul 
taut  the  guys,  light-to  the  cable,  as  fast  as  she  will  take  it,  until 
a  sufficient  scope  is  out,  when  stopper.  Furl  sails,  haul  taut  and 
stop  in  the  rigging,  send  the  boats'  crews  aft,  to  lower  the -boats 
down.  Let  the  boatswain  go  ahead  to  square  the  yards — clear  up 
the  decks. 

Note. — If  in  going  to  moor,  veer  out  double  the  mooring  scopti. 
and  then  let  go  the  anchor ;  then  furl  sails  and  heave  in. 


353.— TO  ANCHOR  ON  A  LEE  SHORE. 

The  ship  being  on  a  lee  shore,  and  no  room  to  veer,  recourse 
must  be  had  to  letting  go  all  the  anchors.  For  this  purpose  all 
the  cables  are  bent  and  ranged,  and  all  the  anchors  got  ready  for 
letting  go  ;  the  weather  sheet  is  bitted  to  the  forward  bitts.  and 
the  weather  bower  to  the  after  bitts,  to  windward  ;  the  lee  bower 
to  the  forward  bitts,  and  the  lee  sheet  to  the  after  ones  to  leeward ; 
no  buoy  rope  is  bent  except  to  the  weather  sheet ;  tho  weather 
sheet  is  backed  by  the  stream,  and  the  other  anchors  with  kedges  ; 
see  all  the  tiers  clear,  get  the  ship  under  storm-staysails,  and  furl 
all  the  square  sails ;  hook  the  yard  tackles  ;  get  the  lower  yards 
forward,  and  house  topmast;  when  all  is  ready,  keep  her  a  little 
olf,  to  get  headway.  Let  go  the  weather  sheet  and  stream  an 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  193 

chord  and  veer  away,  then  the  weather  bower  and  kedge ;  down 
helm ;  haul  down  fore  and  main  storm  stay-sails,  and  the  drift 
to  leeward  will  carry  her  to  the  berth  of  the  last  anchor,  which 
let  go  ;  haul  down  the  mizen  storm  stay-sail,  and  veer  away 
an  equal  scope  on  all  four  cables  ;  observe  that  they  will  bear 
an  equal  strain,  and  veer  to  a  long  scope,  reserving  sufficient  to 
freshen  the  nip  with  ;*  see  that  the  cables  are  well  rounded, 
and  watch  them  carefully.  If  she  should  drag,  sling  the  guns 
with  the  stoutest  spare  rigging  on  board,  having  a  round  turn 
around  all  these  cables,  and  heave  them  over ;  if  she  should  still 
drag,  cut  away  the  masts,  and  if  there  be  no  possibility  of  pre- 
venting her  from  going  on  shore,  take  a  stout  spring  to  one  of 
the  quarters,  slip  the  cables,  let  her  veer  round  ind  go  on  shore 
end  on.f 

Note — In  weighing  these  anchors,  bring-to  first  on  the  cable 
which  has  got  the  least  scope  out,  taking  in  the  slack  of  the 
others  with  deck-tackles. 


354.— SCUDDING  UNDER  A  FORESAIL— TO  COME 
TO  AN  ANCHOR. 

Get  both  bowers  ready  for  letting  go ;  haul  up  the  ioresai  I, 
making  a  due  allowance  for  headway,  and  run  in  under  bai « 
poles;  when  near  the  berth,  down  helm,  out  with  the  span- 
ker, and  haul  aft  mizen  storm  stay-sail  sheet ;  when  by  the  wind, 
let  go  the  weather  anchor  and  veer  away  briskly ;  when  head  to 
wind,  let  go  the  lee  anchor,  and  haul  down  the  staysail ;  veer-to1, 
and  bring  equal  strain  on  both  cables.  If  necessary,  let  go  more 
anchors. 


355 TO  MAKE  A  FLYING  MOOR. 

Make  ail  necessary  preparations  for  coming-to ;  overhaul  and 
oitt  a  double  range  of  the  weather  cable,  and  bitt  the  lee  one  at 
the  range  to  which  she  is  to  be  moored.  When  approaching  the 
anchorage,  reduce  sail  to  topsails,  jib  and  spanker,  if  moderate, 
but  if  fresh,  to  jib  and  spanker  only ;  when  near  the  berth  of  the 
first  anchor,  luff-to,  stream  the  buoy,  and  when  the  headway  has 


*  If  they  are  hemp  cables ;  if  chain,  it  is  unnecessary. 
t  See  wrecked  in  a  gale. 


£94  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

nearly  ceased,  let  go  the  weather  anchor,  up  helm,  stand  on  and 
veer  away  roundly,  to  prevent  the  range  from  checking  her; 
when  the  full  range  is  nearly  out,  hard  down  the  helm,  down  jib, 
clew  up  the  topsails,  out  spanker,  and  let  her  lay  the  range  out 
taut ;  when  taut,  let  go  the  lee  anchor,  furl  sails,  bring-to  on  the 
weather-cable,  reeving  away  on  the  lee  one,  and  heave  into  the 
moorings.  Moor  taut,  to  allow  for  veering ;  clap  on  service,  and 
veer  it ;  if  hemp  cable,  square  the  yards,  stop  in  the  rigging,  and 
clear  up  the  decks. 


356.— TO    MOOR    WITH   A  LONG   SCOPE   OF   CHAIN. 

Shackle  the  ends  of  both  chains  together,  and  veer  away  near- 
ly the  whole  of  the  two  cables ;  then  let  go  the  other  anchor, 
bring-to  on  the  first  cable,  heave  in,  veering  away  on  the  other ; 
when  into  the  mooring  mark  or  shackle,  stopper  and  bitt,  un- 
shackle the  chains,  and  secure  all ;  clear  up  the  decks,  and  pay 
the  chain  below.  (See  Unmooring  and  Mooring.) 


357.— BLOWING  FRESH— IN  PORT. 

Range  the  cables,  see  the  anchor  clear,  and  an  anchor  watch 
set ;  have  leads-men  in  the  chains — send  down  the  upper  yards, 
if  not  already  down;  house  top-gallant  masts,  and  point  the 
vards  to  the  wind. 


358.— SEND  DOWN    LOWER  YARDS. 

Send  aloft  the  jeer-blocks,  lash  them,  and  reeve  the  jeers ;  see 
the  gear  of  the  courses  clear,  trusses  unrove,  and  lifts  clear  for 
unreeving ;  hook  the  yard-tackles  and  take  them  forward,  heave 
taut  the  jeers,  unreeve  the  lanyard  of  the  slings,  attend  the 
braces  and  yard-tackles,  lower  away  by  the  ;eers  and  liflA 
When  down  make  all  fa?t. 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  195 


359.— TO   HOUSE   TOPMASTS. 

Hook  top-blocks,  reeve  pendants  and  falls,  dee  the  ringing  clear 
that  leads  to  the  topmast  heads,  man  the  top  tackle-falls,  slack 
the  lanyards  of  the  rigging,  stays  and  backstays ;  sway  up,  out 
fid,  lower  away,  and  haul  down  on  the  rigging;  when  low 
enough,  pass  heel-lashings  around  the  lower  masts,  having  can- 
vass in  the  wake ;  set  taut  the  ringing  and  stays.  Sheep-shank 
the  backstays,  haul  taut  the  running-rigging,  and  make  all  snug. 

Note. — The  topmasts  may  be  housed  with  the  lower  yards 
aloft,  by  taking  the  yard-tackles  forward  and  bousing  upon  them, 
slacking  the  braces  and  trusses  at  the  same  time  (if  not  patent 
trusses).  The  patent  truss  has  been  so  improved  that  the  mast 
can  be  housed  by  unclamping  one  side  and  bracing  sharp  up. 


360.— TO   BACK  A  BOWER  BY  A  STREAM. 

Bend  a  stream-cable  to  the  flukes  of  the  bower-anchor,  observ- 
ing to  let  go  the  stream  first ;  and  when  the  cable  is  taut,  let  go 
the  bower.  If  the  bower  is  already  down  and  dragging,  form  a 
clinch  writh  the  stream,  around  the  cable,  and  let  her  drag  until 
she  brings  the  stream  ahead. 


361.— TO    SWEEP  FOR  AN  ANCHOR. 

Make  use  of  long  stout  running-rigging ;  middle  it,  and  attach 
some  sinker  to  the  middle,  also  along  the  bight,  to  confine  it  to 
the  bottom.  Coil  it  away  in  two  boats,  and  pull  to  windward 
of  where  the  anohor  is  supposed  to  lie ;  then  pull  in  an  opposite 
direction,  veering  away  on  the  bight  from  both  boats ;  now  pull 
in  the  direction  of  the  anchor,  and  when  the  bight  catches,  cross 
the  boats,  and  get  a  round  turn  with  the  rope ;  make  a  running 
bowline  on  the  end  of  a  hawser  around  the  rope,  and  slip  it 
down  ;  when  fast,  weigh  with  the  launch. 

Note. — A  section  of  small  sized  chain,  with  a  rope  bent  to  each 
end,  is  the  best  means  that  can  be  used  to  sweep  for  an  anchor. 
Cross  and  bring  both  part's  together,  after  which  put  on  a  shackle 
on  both  parts,  and  let  it  run  down  to  the  anchor ;  then  heave  up 
on  both  parts. 


196  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


362.- PREPARATIONS  FOR  LEAVING  HARBOR. 

Inspect  the  tiller-ropes,  shift  hard  over  the  helm,  once  or  twice 
each  way,  in  order  to  see  that  the  tiller  is  not  obstructed  in  its 
sweep  in  the  gun-room.  Place  lead-lines  in  both  channels, 
Point  the  ends  of  the  hawsers  up  the  hatchways,  ready  for  pay- 
ing out  in  any  direction.  Range  both  bower  cables ;  see  stoppers 
placed  in  readiness  (bitt  and  ring).  Examine  cat-head  stop- 
pers, and  shank-painters  of  both  bower-anchors. 

Should  the  shank-painters  be  fitted  slip-shackle  fashion,  care 
should  be  taken  to  place  men  by  them  who  are  acquainted  with 
the  method  of  disengaging  the  anchors,  &c. 


363.— WEIGHING  ANCHOR  IN   A  HEAD-SEA. 

In  weighing  anchor  with  a  head-sea,  precaution  should  be; 
taken  to  have  previously  prepared  a  good  deck-tackle  or  other 
purchase,  which  affix  to  the  messenger  (if  required),  to  assist  the 
action  of  the  capstan.  There  should  also  be  had  in  readiness  an 
imple  quantity  of  nippers.  (See  Passing-  Nippers.) 


364.— CASTING,  OR  CUTTING  THE  CABLE. 

When  at  single  anchor  in  a  roadstead,  and  if  it  be  apprehended 
that  from  the  direction  of  the  wind,  and  the  local  position  of  the 
ship  with  the  shore,  it  may  be  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  cut- 
ting the  cable,  and  that  casting  the  wrong  way  would  endanger 
the  safety  of  the  vessel,  timely  precaution  should  be  taken  to 
ensure  the  ships  casting  in  the  right  direction. 

To  effect  this  purpose,  the  stream  cable  should  be  bent  to  that 
of  the  riding  bower,  brought  through  the  after  part,  and  taken 
round  the  capstan,  in  readiness  to  act  as  a  spring,  to  cant  the 
ship  previously  to  cutting.  Axes  should  be  placed  abaft  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  stream  cable,  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  it,  after 
the  bower  has  been  severed,  and  the  ship's  head  cast  the  desired 
way. 

Note. — A  slip  or  ouoy-rope  should  be  brought  over  f:  head,"  so 
that  when  the  cable  is  cut,  a  buoy  may  be  left  in  the  roadstead 
to  denote  the  position  of  the  anchor. 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


365.— CLINCHING    CABLES. 

Whatever  be  the  number  of  hemp  cables  which  are  bent  to  the 
anchors,  the  officer  in  charge  is  particularly  cautioned  to  clap  on  a 
clinch  rounding,  towards  the  inner  extremity  of  each  cable,  keep- 
ing three  sheaves  in  the  tier ;  upon  receiving  the  cables  on  board, 
and  clinching  their  respective  ends,  the  officer  may  proceed  as 
given  in  the  note  below. 

Chain-cables  should  never  be  clinched  in  a  manner  which  will 
not  admit  of  their  ends  being  immediately  disengaged,  in  the 
event  of  it  becoming  necessary  to  slip,  or  extricate  the  ship  from 
her  anchors  ;  it  may  be  said,  that  the  cable  may  be  unshackled 
on  deck,  but  it  may  so  happen,  that  the  last  shackle  is  without 
the  hawse — a  circumstance  which  will  preclude  the  possibility  of 
having  recourse  to  this  expedient. 

Note. — Pay  down  three  sheaves  into  the  tier,  and  then  clap  on  a 
racking  lashing  to  the  fore  beam,  previously  worming  and  parceling 
in  the  wake  of  the  lashing ;  measure  then,  allowing  the  cable  bitted, 
and  clap  on  a  rounding  in  the  wake,  where  the  cable  would  bring 
up  in  the  hawse,  and  chafe  in  the  cutwater.  This  method  leaves 
room  to  freshen  hawse,  in  the  event  of  having  to  veer  to  the 
clinch.  Few  ships  adopt  the  precaution  of  clapping  upon  their 
cables  a  clinch  service  ;  when  too  late,  the  necessity  of  the  prac- 
tice is  discovered. 


366.— FITTING   BUOY-BOPES. 

Buoy-ropes  are  always  proportioned  to  the  depth  of  water. 
One  end  is  unlaid,  and  a  buoy  rope-knot  made ;  it  is  then  laid  up 
•igain,  and  whipped.  A  clove  hitch  is  made,  one  half  of  the 
hitch  being  on  each  side  of  the  crown.  The  end  with  the  knot 
is  seized  on  the  shank,  one  seizing  put  on  close  to  the  crown, 
and  one  close  to  the  end.  The  other  is  bent  to  the  buoy.  Some 
orefer  the  running  eye.  Put  over  one  arm,  and  a  half-hitch  ovei 
the  other  arm,  and  seized  in  the  cross. 


367.— JIB-HALLIARDS  WITH  A  WHIP. 

A  piece  of  rope,  nearly  equal  to  the  double  halliards,  is  rove 

o  the  head  of 
other  a  single 


*v^j-rvj      KAWVAAf  1  1-*v*'i         vw          W»»V         \JL\J  \JLM1\S         11 UL11 

through  the  block  at  the"  mast-head,  and  hooked  to  the  head  of 
the  jib,  a  hook  being  spliced  in  the  end ;   in  the  o 


198  THE   KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 

block  is  spliced  high  enough  from  the  deck  to  allow  the  jib  being 
hauled  close  down.  Through  this  block  reeve  a  fall,  and  send 
Loth  ends  down  through  lubber's-hole  ;  splice  a  hook  in  one  end, 
and  hook  into  a  bolt ;  reeve  the  other  through  a  leading-block. 
Objections  have  been  made  to  whips,  but  if  the  standing  part  is 
put  a  good  distance  from  the  hauling,  it  is  impossible  that  it  can 
take  turns  in — they  can  lead  abaft  the  top  if  necessary.  I  should 
recommend  their  being  brought  down  immediately  forward  of 
topsail  halliards. 


368.— JIB  SHEETS,  DOUBLE. 

Two  single  blocks  are  seized  into  one  strap,  as  span  blocks, 
and  the  strap  secured  to  the  clew*  of  the  sail,  with  a  lashing  pass- 
ed through  it,  and  an  eye  formed  in  the  strap  by  crossing  both 
parts  together,  and  passing  a  throat  seizing.  One  end  of  the 
sheet  is  clinched  or  spliced  into  an  eye-bolt  in  the  bulwarks,  the 
other  end  rove  through  the  block  in  the  sail,  from  out,  in  and 
through  a  fair-leader  or  sheave  in  the  bulwarks. 

With  pendants,  a  piece  of  rope  of  sufficient  size  and  length  is 
middled,  crossed,  and  a  throat  seizing  passed  round  both  parUi, 
having  an  eye  in  the  bight  large  enough  to  take  a  lashing.  Li 
each  of  these  pendants,  splice  a  single  block ;  reeve  a  whip  the 
same  as  in  the  double  sheets.  The  pendants  should  be  long 
enough  to  allow  the  weather  one  to  hang  slack  on  the  fore-top- 
mast stay,  when  the  sheet  is  aft.  (See  Sail  Table  for  iron  clews.) 


369.— WRECKED  IN  A  GALE. 

When  this  sad  fate  appears  inevitable,  it  would  be  well  to 
make  choice  (if  choice  can  be  made),  of  what  appears  the  best 
part  of  the  coast,  and  the  clearest  from  rocks,  for  beaching  her. 

The  manner  in  which  the  boatmen  beach  their  boats,  is  by 
laying  them,  with  the  assistance  of  the  helm,  half-broadside  on, 
or  rather  bow  and  quarter  on,  having  previously  given  the  vessel 
a  heel,  or  list  in  shore.  This  may  be  done  either  by  trimming, 
or  by  the  sallying  of  the  crew,  before  the  time  that  the  vessel 
takes  the  ground.  Such  a  position  will  offer  the  best  means  of 
saving  the  crew,  who  may  also  be  materially  assisted  by  cutting 

*  Ircn  clews  being  fitted  to  all  sails,  the  strap  would  be  likely  to  chafe.  I  would 
recommend  snug  clump  sister-hooks,  or  shackles,  fitted  to  the  clews 


OR  YOUNG  SULORS'  ASSISTANT.  199 

away  the  masts,  so  as  to  fall  towards  the  shore,  which  may  be 
the  means  of  assisting  those  on  board  to  reach  the  shore. 

In  establishing  a  communication  with  the  shore,  if  it  be  by  a 
boat,  the  end  of  the  deep  sea-lead  line  should  be  taken  in  her,  or 
if  it  be  by  some  good  swimmer,  with  a  cork  jacket  on,  the  end  of 
the  log  line  will  serve  the  same  purpose ;  by  either  of  these,  haw- 
sers, or  other  large  ropes  may  afterwards  be  got  on  shore. 

The  means  of  getting  on  shore  from  a  wreck  are  by  life  boats, 
rafts,  parts  of  the  wreck,  or  life  preservers. 

A  canvass  cot,  with  large  holes  at  the  bottom,  to  admit  the 
water  to  pass  through  freely,  and  having  cross  bars  of  thick  rope, 
should  also  be  kept  in  readiness  for  such  an  occasion. 

Raw-hide  rope  will  be  the  best  for  traveling  grommets.  Some 
other  expedients  might  be  mentioned,  which  are  for  the  consider 
ation  of  officers  in  charge  of  vessels. 


370.— SETTING  UP  RIGGING  AT   SEA. 

Whenever  it  is  required  to  set  up  the  lower  shrouds,  at  sea, 
the  topmast  shrouds  should  be  all  let  go  ;  this  practice  is  recom- 
mended upon  the  presumption  that  the  lower  rigging  will  not  be 
cast  loose,  or  set  up  on  the  occasion  of  a  swell,  or  that  the  ship 
be  rolling  or  pitching.  It  has  been  \vell  observed,  that  by  letting 
go  two  topmast  shrouds  at  a  time,  an  uneven  strain  has  been 
brought  upon  the  futtock  ;*  which  prevents  the  shrouds  of  the 
lower  rigging  being  equally  drawn  down. 

Upon  all  occasions  of  setting  up  the  lower  rigging  at  sea,  it  is 
always  advisable  to  have  ready  prepared  as  many  luffs  as  possi- 
ble, so  that  the  shrouds  may  be  set  up  at  a  time,  and  that  there 
may  be  no  delay  in  shifting  the  tackles  from  shroud  to  shroud. 
When  the  lower  rigging  is  up,  the  futtock  plates  should  be  beaten 
down  to  the  top,  and  the  shrouds  set  tautly  up  by  means  of  tackles, 
ready  hooked  to  there  respective  lanyards.  The  method  of  em- 
ploying the  Spanish  windlass,  for  the  purpose  of  setting  up  these 
shrouds,  is  not  to  be  recommended.  It  occupies  too  much  time, 
and  often  creates  unnecessary  delay  before  the  topmast  rigging 
can  be  set  up.  In  staying  the  topmasts,  the  boatswain  is  not 
recommended  to  bouse  too  far  forward  the  heads  of  the  mast,  and 
he  should  recollect  that  the  angle  formed  by  the  main  topmast 
stay,  with  the  fore  top,  is  considerably  greater  than  that  of  the 
fore  topmast  with  the  bowsprit ;  and  consequently  that  the  leve? 
of  the  former  is  more  powerful  than  that  of  the  latter. 


•  This  is  only  applicable  to  vessels  having  their  futtock-rigging  set  up  to  their 
lower  rigging. 


200  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Note. — Vessels  not  having  catharpen  legs,  need  not  come  up  the 
topmast  rigging  for  the  purpose  of  setting  up  lower  rigging,  as 
the  futtock-shrouds  set  up  to  the  mast. 


371.— SLACKING  THE  JIB-STAY,  IN  BAD  WEATHER 

The  jib-stay  is  always  set  up  as  taut  as  a  bar  of  iron  ;  conse- 
quently, when  it  comes  to  a  blow,  both  the  spray  of  the  sea  and 
the  rain  tend  to  tauten  it  more ;  in  pitching,  too,  it  must  assist 
to  spring  the  boom,  work  the  bowsprit,  and  cause  unnecessary 
strain  upon  the  rope  itself.  Whenever  it  blows  so  fresh  that  the 
jib  is  not  likely  to  be  set,  the  jib-stay  should  be  slacked.  If  it  be 
required  subsequently  to  setting  the  sail,  nothing  can  be  easier 
than  to  set  the  stay  up,  while  the  jib  is  loosing.  (Bear  this  in 
mind.} 


•17  2.— STOPPING   OUT    TOPGALLANT    YARD    ROPES. 

The  practice  of  permitting  the  topmen  to  stop  the  topgallant 
y  ard  ropes  out  at  their  own  convenience,  and  consequently  at 
unstated  periods,  is  at  variance  with  that  order  and  regularity 
which  should  ever  characterize  the  duties  and  discipline  of  a  ves- 
«  3!  of  war. 

In  well  regulated  ships,  the  officer  of  the  watch,  following  the 
movements  of  the  senior  officers,  directs  the  boatswain  or  his 
mates  to  pipe  "  out  yard  ropes  ;"  if  tripping-lines  are  tolerated,  the 
yard  rope  and  tripping-line  men  should  lay  out  together:  by  pur- 
suing this  system  the  yards  will  be  kept  square,  and  will  not 
^as  is  of  constant  occurrence),  be  seen  for  an  hour  and  a  half  be- 
fore sunset,  topping  in  different  directions.  The  same  rule  should 
be  observed  when  placing  on  whips  for  hammock-girtlines.  or 
clothes-lines. 


373.— PREVENTER   BRACES. 

It  is  desirable  to  establish  a  general  rule,  that  wrhen  the  top- 
sails are  treble-reefed,  the  preventer  braces  are  to  be  placed  on  th« 
yards,  and  that  the  relieving  tackles  in  the  gun  room  be  placed 
at  hand  ready  for  use. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  20 1 


374.— KEEPING  A  CLEAR  ANCHOR. 

That  part  of  seamanship  which  relates  to  the  method  of  tend- 
ing a  ship  to  the  tide,  or  in  other  words  of  keeping  the  cable  cleai 
of  the  anchor,  may  not  be  inaptly  termed  the  blind  branch  of 
the  mariner's  art — the  buoy  floating  on  the  surface  being  the 
only  possible  guide  that  the  seaman  possesses  to  point  to  the  po- 
sition of  the  anchor  hidden  under  water. 

From  being  little  understood,  and  by  young  officers  it  is  seldom 
put  in  practice,  the  art  of  keeping  a  clear  anchor  is  by  many  con- 
sidered a  difficult  task  ;  but,  were  officers  to  give  more  attention 
to  the  matter,  and  to  place  less  dependence  on  the  master  or  pilot, 
they  would  soon  attain  every  necessary  knowledge  to  meet  the 
most  difficult  tide  case. 


375.— ANCHOR  TURNING  IN  THE  GROUND. 


In  order  to  ensure  the  certainty  of  an  anchor  turning  in  the 
ground,  with  the  tending  or  swinging  of  the  ship,  it  is  recom- 
mended (whenever  it  is  possible),  to  resort  to  this  practice :  To 
shoot  the  ship  on  the  same  side  of  her  anchor,  at  each  change  of 
tide ;  for  if  the  anchor  should  not  turn  in  the  ground,  the  cable 
will  get  foul,  either  about  the  stock  or  upper  fluke,  and  trip  it 
out  of  ground.  (Remember  this). 


376.— TO   TEND  TO   A  WEATHER-TIDE 

Let  it  be  supposed  that  a  ship  is  riding  at  single  anchor,  upon 
a  lee-tide,  with  the  wind  in  the  same  direction  as  the  tide,  and 
that  it  be  required,  upon  the  tide  setting  to  windward,  to  tend 
the  ship  clear  of  the  anchor.  To  effect  this,  as  soon  as  the  ship 


202  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

begins  to  feel  the  turn  of  the  weather- tide,  and  that  the  vessel 
brings  the  wind  broad  on  the  weather-bow,  the  head  sails  should 
be  hoisted,  and  the  lee-sheets  hauled  aft.  in  order  to  shoot  the 
ship  from  her  anchor,  on  a  taut  cable.  The  helm  must  be  put 
"a-lee,"  and  kept  in  that  position  until  the  tide  sets  the  ship  over 
to  windward  of  her  cable,  and  the  buoy  appears  on  the  same  side 
with  the  helm.  If  from  light  winds  the  buoy  bears  nearly 
a-beam,  her  head  sails  may  be  hauled  down ;  but  if  the  breeze 
be  strong,  and  it  causes  the  ship  to  shoot  in  a  direction  nearly 
end-on  with  that  of  the  cable,  bringing  the  buoy  on  her  quarter 
it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  fore-topmast-staysail  set,  in  order 
to  check  the  vessel,  should  she  be  disposed  to  break  her  shear 
against  the  action  of  her  helm,  or  be  inclined  to  drop  to  wind- 
ward and  "  go  over"  her  anchor,  in  a  broadside  or  lateral  direc- 
tion. 


377.— A  MAN  OVERBOARD,  AT  SEA. 

If  the  ship  be  going  free,  and  particularly  if  fast  through  the 
water,  it  is  recommended  to  bring-to  with  the  head-yards  a-back, 
for  it  is  obvious  if  the  main-yard  be  left  square,  the  ship  will  be 
longer  coming-to,  will  shoot  farther,  increase  the  distance  from 
the  man,  and  add  materially  to  the  delay  of  succor. 

It  will  however  require  judgment,  especially  if  blowing  fresh, 
to  be  careful  and  right  the  helm  in  time,  or  the  ship  will  fly-to 
too  much,  gain  sternway,  and  risk  the  boat  in  lowering  down. 

The  best  authority  recommends,  that  if  possible,  the  ship 
should  not  only  be  hove  a-back  when  a  man  falls  overboard,  but 
she  ought  to.be  brought  around  on  the  other  tack;  of  course 
sail  ought  to  be  shortened  in  stays,  and  the  main-yard  kept 
square.  This  implies  the  ship  being  on  a  wind,  or  from  the 
position  of  having  the  wind  not  above  two  points  abaft  the  beam. 

The  great  merit  of  such  a  method  of  proceeding,  is,  that  if  the 
evolution  succeeds,  the  ship  when  round  will  drift  towards  the 
man,  and  although  there  may  be  some  small  risk  in  lowering 
the  boat  in  stays  from  the  ship,  having  at  one  period  sternway, 
there  will  in  fact  be  little  time  lost,  if  the  boat  be  not  lowered 
until  the  ship  be  well  round,  and  the  sternway  at  an  end.  There 
is  more  mischief  done  generally,  by  lowering  the  boat  too  soon, 
than  by  waiting  until  the  fittest  moment  arrives  far  doing  it 
coolly.  It  cannot  be  too  often  repeated,  that  almost  the  whole 
depends  upon  the  self-possession  of  the  officer  of  the  deck. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  2Q3 

378.— JIB  AND   STAYSAIL-HALLIARD 

(Blocks  at  mast-head.) 

For  various  reasons  it  is  advisable  to  dispense  with  the  cheek- 
blocks,  which  are  usually  fitted  to  the  fore  topmast-head,  for  the 
Duroose  of  reeving  the  above  two  ropes,  together  with  the  fore 
topmast  staysail-halliards.  In  the  first  place,  if  the  fore-topmast 
be  sprung,  or  carried  away  in  chase,  and  it  be  required  to  shift 
the  mast  with  all  possible  speed,  considerable  time  is  taken 
up  in  removing  and  replacing  cheek-blocks  at  the  mast-head 
(See  allow  ance-table.  Blocks.) 

Note. — In  some  ships  the  jib  and  fore-topmast  staysail-halliards 
are  rove  through  gins  fitted  for  the  purpose.  Gins,  however, 
are  not  supplied  in  all  ships,  but  you  can  always  fit  fiddle-blocks 
under  the  eyes  of  your  rigging ;  your  jib  and  staysail-halliards 
reeve  in  the  upper  sheaves,  and  the  topsail-buntlines  in  the  lowe\ 
ones.  Cheek-blocks  answer  well  on  the  trestle-trees. 


379. —TO  KEEP  THE  HAWSE  CLEAR  WHEN  MOORED. 

When  it  is  nearly  slack  water,  cant  her  with  the  helm  the 
right  way,  and  if  necessary,  make  use  of  jib,  spanker,  and  yards. 


380.— TO   TEND  TO  WINDWARD— SINGLE  ANCHOR. 

When  the  tide  slacks,  sheer  her  with  the  helm,  run  up  the  jib 
and  fore-topmast  staysail,  with  weather-sheets  aft ;  when  canted 
the  right  way,  the  lee-sheets  may  be  hauled  aft,  and  and  the 
yards  filled,  thus  setting  her  abreast  to  a  taut  cable ;  when  the 
buoy  is  on  the  lee-quarter,  brace  the  head-yards  to  the  wind,  and 
fill  the  after  ones ;  when  the  tide  swings  her  head  around  so  as 
to  shake  the  sails,  haul  down  and  stow  them. 


381.— TO  TEND  TO  LEEWARD. 

As  the  tide  slackens,  sheer  her  to  the*  same  side  of  the  buoy  on 
winch  she  came  to  windward,  and  fill  the  yards,  wnich  will  sei 

16 


204  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

her  end-on  over  the  cable ;  she  Avill  now  by  the  effect  of  the 
wind,  bring  her  stern  over  the  cable,  and  bring  the  buoy  on  her 
weather-quarter ;  put  the  helm  "  a-weather,"  and  she  will  shoot 
ahead,  tautening  tne  cable,  by  sheering  her  head  from  the  wind. 
When  the  wind  gets  a  little  aft  the  beam,  hoist  the  jib,  to  pi  event 
the  cable  from  drawing  her  head  to  wind. 

Let  her  lay  in  this  position  until  she  falls  off;  when  the  nead- 
«ails  shake,  haul  down  and  stow  them. 


382.— TO   BACK    SHIP— (AT   ANCHOR). 

As  the  tide  slacks,  sheer  her  to  windward,  sheet-home  and  set 
the  mizen-topsail;  thus  she  will  back  round  to  leeward  as  soon 
as  the  tide  sets  up ;  clew  up  and  furl  the  mizen-topsaiL 


383.— TO   BREAK   THE   SHEAR. 

When  tending  to  the  tide,  and  the  ship  comes  over  her  anchor 
she  may  break  her  shear  by  canting  her  stern  the  wrong  wayj 
vhen  this  is  the  case  put  the  helm  "a-weather,"  run  the  jib  up, 
fill  the  head-yards,  and  the  after-yards  kept-to.  Everything  is 
now  arranged  to  bring  her  round  again,  when  she  must  be  man- 
aged as  before  mentioned. 


384.— ON   GETTING  TO   SEA. 

Unship  the  man-ropes,  stow  them 
away,  secure  the  gangways,  pay  down 
the  messenger,  and  secure  anchors  and 
boats.  The  anchors  ought  to  be  se- 
cured with  preventer  stoppers,  and 
painters,  particularly  where  they  work 
with  a  slip-shackle  or  tricker,  which  a 
rope  catching,  may  drag  or  drive  out. 
In  fact  the  jib-sheet  is  apt  to  do  this 
if  not  looked  to. 

Wash  and  dry  the  nippers,  then 
stow  them  away ;  wash  down  the  anchors  and  buoys,  and  black 


01?    YOUNG  SA1LOKS'  ASSISTANT.  205 

them  us  soon  as  possible;  when  clear  of  the  land,  unbend  cables 
buoys,  and  buoy-ropes,  and  ship  the  blind-buckles,  unless  prevent- 
ed by  peculiar  circumstances. 

Take  off  the  harbor-gaskets  and  have  them  repaired  and 
blackened  afresh,  when  convenient.  If  the  bunt-gaskets,  however, 
are  retained  on  the  yards,  roll  them  up  snug  and  secure  tnem. 
Put  the  sea-gaskets  on,  make  them  up  in  cheises,  and  keep  them 
before  the  yards. 

Place  bunt-line  spans  to  their  respective  yards. 

Have  the  boats'  sails  and  awnings  dried  and  put  below. 

Quarter-boats  clear  for  lowering. 

Besides  these,  the  watch  on  deck,  when  not  employed  in  more 
pressing  duties,  may  bo  occupied  to  much  advantage  as  fol- 
lows, viz. : 

1st.  Exercising  small-arms,  cutlasses  and  guns  ; 

2d.  Pointing  all  ropes  requiring  it ; 

3d.  Working  up  a  sufficient  quantity  of  junk,  into  seizing- 
stuff,  mats,  swabs,  foxes,  thumb-lines,  knittles,  gaskets,  reef 
points,  nippers,  salvagees,  straps,  &c.,  &c. 


385.— OX   FIRE  REGULATIONS   IN  THE  MERCHANT 

SERVICE. 

We  now  come  to  the  most  important  of  all  the  regulations  i'i 
a  ship,  namely,  those  which  operate  against  the  fatal  and  shock  - 
ing  eiiects  of  fire.  Whatever  good  results  from  stationing  people 
in  ordinary  cases,  cannot  be  put  in  competition  with  this,  whicii 
provides  against  the  most  dreadful  catastrophe  incident  to  a  ship. 
From  the  number  of  unfortunate  accidents  of  this  nature  we 
surely  ought  to  be  prepared  to  our  utmost  for  such  an  event. 

First,  by  internal  precautions ;  and 

Secondly,  by  the  means  to  be  used  against  the  danger. 

Let  there  be  great  attention  in  the  use  of  fire  and  lights. — The 
regulations  on  these  subjects  which  exist  in  men  of  war  are  still 
more  required  in  merchant  vessels. 

Fires  should  be  put  out  at  eight  P.  M.,  and  all  lights  at  nine 
p.  M.,  except  those  required  for  the  binnacle,  and  on  deck. 

The  officer  of  the  last  dog-watch  ought  to  report  the  fire  extin- 
guished to  the  captain. 

As  each  man  is  relieved  from  the  wheel,  he  should  examine 
below,  and  report  "  all  well "  to  the  officer  of  the  watch. 

No  naked  light  whatever  ought  to  be  permitted ;  let  eithei 
lanterns  or  lamps  be  used. 

Spirits  should  be  drawn  off  by  day ;  a  naked  light  shuuld  on 
no  account  be  permitted  near  a  spirit  cask. 


206  THE  KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

Smoking  should  not  be  allowed  below.  I  have  known  more 
than  one  ship  set  on  fire  by  a  man's  pipe  ;  and  by  segars,  I  have 
no  doubt  many  have  been  burnt. 

In  stowing  a  hold,  do  not  allcw  naked  lights  to  be  used,  nor 
any  person  to  smoke  there  when  so  employed. 

On  receiving  cotton  as  a  cargo,  both  those  who  ship  as  well 
as  those  who  receive  it,  ought  to  ascertain  that  it  is  in  a  safe  state 
before  it  be  put  on  board.  I  have  known  instances  of  its  being 
sold  and  moved  away,  when,  in  a  few  hours,  if  it  had  not  been 
moved,  it  would  have  ignited. 

1  am  acquainted  with  the  particulars  of  a  ship  that  was  burn 
some  years  since,  where  oil  had  been  stowed  in  the  hold  with 
cotton  over  it,  with  what  was  considered  safe  and  secure  dunnage 
between.  The  cotton,  notwithstanding,  absorbed  a  quantity  of 
oil.  became  heated,  and  ignited.  The  crew  with  difficulty  saved 
themselves  in  the  boats  before  the  flames  burst  forth,  and  the 
vessel  was  entirely  consumed. 

Chests  containing  bottles  of  inflammable  substances,  such  as 
vitriol,  &c.,  cannot  be  too  well  secured.  A  medicine  chest  upset 
in  a  gale  may  set  fire  to  a  ship. 

Friction  matches  should  never  be  allowed  on  board  a  ship. 

The  coals  in  steamers  have  frequently  taken  fire,  and  in  many 
cases  with  the  most  fatal  consequences.  Too  much  care  cannot 
be  taken  in  the  selection  of  coals ;  a  strict  examination  ought  to 
be  made  as  to  their  state  when  received  and  stowed,  and  no  sus- 
picious circumstances  should  be  then  overlooked.  When  receiv- 
ing coals,  avoid  throwing  the  fresh  ones  on  the  old,  which  ought 
to  be  kept  uppermost,  and^rs^  for  use.  When  once  they  become 
ignited,  I  can  hardly  offer  a  remedy  for  the  evil. 

When  coals  take  fire,  some  people  throw  water  upon  them, 
and  smother  the  fire  by  wet  beds.  Hot  water,  or  steam,  if  they 
can  be  used,  are  more  expeditious  than  cold  water  in  extinguish- 
ing fire,  I  believe.  To  attempt  to  discharge  the  coals,  would  al- 
low the  air  freer  access,  and  would  be  certain  to  increase  the 
power  of  the  fire. 

A  few  canvass  buckets,  with  long  lanyards,  should  be  alway 
prepared  and  ready  on  deck  for  drawing  water. 

When  a  fire  is  first  discovered,  shorten  all  low  sails  directly, 
courses  up,  stay-sails  and  wind-sails  down,  boat-covers  taken  off. 

If  the  sails  should  take  fire  from  lightning,  or  any  other  cause, 
cutting  away  the  mast  appears  the  most  likely  method  of  saving 
the  ship. 

At  first,  endeavor  if  possible,  to  stifle  the  fire  ;  which  may  be 
best  done  by  shutting  off  any  draught  of  air,  and  smothering  it 
with  wet  bedding,  small  sails,  &c.,  until  a  good  supply  of  waier 
can  be  applied. 

If  the  fire  is  forward,  put  before  the  wind  until  it  is  necessary 
to  "  out  boats,"  then  bring- to. 

If  the  fire  is  aft,  or  a-midships,  keep  to  the  wind. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  207 

386.—  STATION  BILL   FOR   FIRE,   IN   THE   MER- 
CHANT  SERVICE.* 

Coolness  and  steadiness  in  any  misfortune  by  fire  are  essential 
to  arrest  it 

If  a  fire  break  out  below,  the  hatchways  should  be  immediately 
covered,  to  prevent  a  draught  of  air. 

Ring  the  ship's  beil  to  call  the  men  to  their  stations. 


MEN'3  NAMES.  DUTIES. 

A  very  steady  man  ---  To  the  helm. 

r  First,   to  cover   hatchways  \\ith  gratings  and 

The  carpenter,  and     I  S^^^   rig  pumps   and  lead  hoses.  and 
Thirdly,   get  the  tools  ready  for  cutting:  away, 
*-     if  required. 


The  chief  mate,  boat-  ^  To  attend  where  the  fire  is,   and  pass  water  to 
swain,  and  ship's  cook.  \      it,  &c. 

A  man  of  each  watch  ^  To  the  pumps,  and  to  draw  water  as  for  wash- 
or  more.  \      ing  decks. 

.  ,  ^  To  collect  all  the  buckets  to  the  part  where  the 

I      water  is  being  drawn. 

{First  duty  to  haul  up  courses,   brail  up  trysails 
and  spanker. 
Second  duty,  draw  and  pass  water  with  the  fire 
buckets  ;  then  for  third  duty  see  below. 

{First   duty,  to  haul  up  courses,  brail  up  trysaila 
Se^ondTuty*  tosoak  small  sails  and  bedding  to 
throw  over  and  smother  the  fire  ;  then  for  third 
duty  see  below. 

r  k-  ar/i    ™A     l"lf  any  powder  or  other    combustibles   are  on 

cablnTo  1      board'   to  throw  ^em  overboard  if  Possible, 

(_     or  drown  them. 


Second  mate  to  direct  plf  tfae   fregh  water  jg  in  ^     turn 
fire  hose,  and  the  sup-  1      ^^   of  twQ  of  them  for>  ft  firgt          , 

°  I  the  pump'  and  then  go  to  direct  fire  ho^ 


("Third   duties  of  the  crew,  the  yard  and  stay- 
The  crew.  •<      tackles  to  be  got  up  ready  for  getting  oat 

l_     boats. 


*  This  bill  ought  to  be  written  out  or  printed,  and  hung  up  for  every  one's  in- 
spection. 

r  The  mate  ough  to  have  the  key  of  the  valves  of  the  water  tanks  in  his  own 
fceepin?. 


THE   KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 

MEN'S    NAMES.  DUTIES. 

{Fourth  duties  of  the  crew,  it'  the  fire  appears  tn 
increase,  out  boats,  and  lower  down  the 
quarter  boats ;  let  them  lay  off  in  a  string  to 
windward,  with  a  man  and  a  boy  as  keepers 
ready  for  the  rest  of  the  crew  if  required. 

The  captain To  attend  at  all  the  stations  as  he  deems  best 

If  the  ship  cannot  be  saved,  the  passengers  and  crew  are  the 
first  objects,  with  some  fresh  water  and  biscuit ;  a  compass,  quad- 
rant and  Bowditch.  Unless  there  is  sufficient  time,  and  it  can 
be  done  without  endangering  the  sea-worthiness  of  the  boats, 
nothing  should  be  taken  that  is  not  essential  to  the  mere  preser- 
vation of  life,  and  necessary  for  navigating  the  boats. 


3  8  7.  —TAKING  TO   THE   BOATS. 

The  captain  should  in  his  own  mind,  and  by  a  private  memo 
randum,  station  the  passengers  and  crew  to  the  boats  on  board, 
and  likewise  make  the  persons  here  specified  be  responsible  fo» 
having  the  following  articles  put  into  the  boats. 


f  Compass,    Maury  on  Navigation,  sextant,  spj 
£        .  N      glass,  Nautical  Almanac,  pencils   and  writing 

i      paper,   general  chart,   pocket  watch,  pair  oi 
v.      compasses,  &c. 

,.  (  Oars,   masts,  sails,  boat-hooks,  bolt  of  canvass, 

I      boat's  compass,  Bowditch's  chart,  ensign. 

,  Two  or  three  bags  of  biscuits,  some  breakers  of 
«a         j  \      water,  quadrant,  pencils  and  writing  paper 

lte'          J      half-gill  measure,  a  musket,  box  of  cartridges, 
*      and  flints  or  caps. 

Surgeon  ......  -  Pocket  instruments. 

(  Hammer,  nails,  sheet-lead,  grease,  fearnoiig?^t, 
Carpenter.  •?      oakum,  saw,  chisel,  turn-screw,  cold  chisel.,  a 

^      vial  of  sweet  oil,  any  small  iron  rod. 

Third  mate,  or  boat-  (  Coil  of  inch  rope,  long  reel,  deep-sea  reel,  paint 
swain.  ^      ed  canvass,  marling-spikes,  spun-yarn,  &c. 

^•ii  (  Palm,  needles,  twine,  fishing-lines,  hooks,  paint- 

I      ed  canvass,  boat's  awning. 

~    ,  ,      (  Tinder-box,  flints  and  tinder,  small  box,  lantern 

Cock,  and  steward.     |      &nd  candlegj  cheesCj  cabm>  bigcuitj  c]{oc^^ 


OR   YOUtfG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT. 

„     .  (A  tin  pot,  a  pocket  knife,  a  change  of  f.annela 

£      and  stockings. 

With  a  scarcity  of  food,  savages  attempt  to  lessen  the  cravings 
ol  hunger  by  tightening  a  belt  around  the  waist ;  and  by  sucking 
a  pebble  they  in  some  degree  alleviate  thirst.  Chewing  tobacco 
may  also  be  serviceable  under  such  circumstances.  In  such 
emergencies  all  must  fare  alike. 


388    -LOSING  A  RUDDER  AT  A  CRITICAL  MOMENT, 

(such  as  crossing  a  Bar^ 


A  ship  might  lose  her  rudder  at  a  critical  moment  in  crossing 
the  bar  of  a  river,  when  a  few  minutes  more  might  run  her 
aground,  if  she  were  unmanageable  ;  and  in  this  case,  what  tem- 
porary rudder  is  best  becomes  a  question  for  which  a  few  moments 
only  are  given  to  decide.  The  plan  of  steering  by  the  stream- 
cable  payed  out  astern,  or  by  the  stern-boat  lowered  instantly,  with 
the  plug  out,  and  towed  astern  by  a  hawser,  with  guys  leading 
up  to  each  quarter,  would  perhaps  then  be  adopted  ;  while  a  ship 
losing  her  rudder  at  sea  would  have  leisure  to  adopt  any  other 
plan. 

It  might  be  an  advantage,  if  every  vessel  would  take  some  op- 
portunity of  tryibg  how  she  could  steer  with  a  stern-boat  in  the 
manner  described,  and  what  length  of  tow-line  was  required  to 
enable  her  to  steer  the  most  easily,  so  as  to  avoid  wild  yawing. 
The  experiment  might  be  made  in  moderate  weather  with  the 
wind  on  the  quarter,  and  also  right  aft,  under  top-sails,  top-gal- 
l  int-sails  and  fore-sail,  running  five  or  six  knots.  Nothing  gives 
jonfidence  so  much  as  practice. 


389.— STEAMERS   GETTING  AGROUND. 

As  steamers  would  probably  do  so  with  very  fresh  way  on, 
they  ought  at  once  to  stop  their  engines,  but  on  no  account  to 
attempt  to  reverse  them,  until  the  extent  of  the  injury  be  ascer 
tained  ;  otherwise  they  may  go  down  in  deep  water.  Their  first 
duty  is  to  out  boats,  and  pla:e  the  passengers  in  safety  in  them ; 
the  crew  might  then  ascertain  the  state  of  the  vessel ;  if  she  is 
likely  to  float,  and  can  be  got  off,  the  attempt  to  do  so  should  be 
made ;  but  if  not,  the  crew  ca  i  take  to  the  boats. 


210 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


390.— ON   THE  DUTY   OF  REMAINING  BY  A 
DAMAGED  VESSEL 

When  two  vessels  have  run  foul  of  each  other,  the  one  which 
is  the  least  injured  is  bound,  by  every  sense  of  justice  and  hu- 
manity, to  stay  by  the  other  to  render  every  assistance  in  her 
power ;  a  contrary  proceeding  ought  to  make  the  guilty  party 
liable  to  some  punishment.  If  one  appears  likely  to  sink,  the 
the  boat  lashings  should  be  cut,  that  the  boat  or  boats  may  be 
got  out  or  float  off. 


When  freshly  blows  the  northern  gales, 
Then  under  courses  snug  we  fly ; 
When  lighter  breezes  swell  the  sails, 
Then  royals  proudly  sweep  the  sky. 


PART   VII. 


MISCELLANEOUS    SUBJECTS. 


391 OX  SQUARING  YARDS. 

Simple  as  may  seem  the  process  of  squaring  yards,  it  is  nevei  - 
iheless  a  piece  of  duty  which  requires  considerable  precision,  and 
this  precision  can  never  be  obtained  without  a  knowledge  of  the 
principle  upon  which  the  yards  should  be  squared.  A  boatswain, 
ignorant  of  this  principle,  will  generally  proceed  thus :  he  first 
bouses  taut  the  lower  trusses,  squares  the  yards  by  the  braces, 
and,  quite  regardless  of  the  distance  of  the  topsail-yards  from 
their  respective  caps,  or  looking  to  see  if  the  yards  are  a-midships, 
directs  the  chief  boatswain's  mate  to  take  his  station  on  the 
end  of  the  jib-boom,  whilst  he  himself  proceeds  in  the  boat  ahead 
of  the  ship  to  square  the  yards  by  the  lifts.  Should  the  fore-yard 
be  required  to  be  topped  to  starboard,  the  boatswain  will  top 
away  upon  the  yard-arm  until,  by  chance,  he  discovers  he  has 
topped  it  too  high ;  to  remedy  this  eye  sore,  he  sings  out  "  Fore- 
yard  to  port"  and  tops  until  he  raises  the  larboard  arm  as  high 
us  the  starboard  ;  producing  by  this  system  of  topping,  and  never 
settling,  a  most  unsightly  bow  in  the  yard.  He  then  squares  the 
fore-topsail  yard  by  the  bowed  fore-yard,  and  of  course  treats  the 
fore-topsail  yard  to  a  bit  of  a  bend  likewise.  He  then  takes  the 
main  yard  in  hand,  which,  though  probably  square  by  the  lifts, 
can  no  longer  look  so  in  his  eye,  because  the  yard  arms  are  not 
made  to  cock  up  like  those  of  the  fore  yard.  "Mai?i  yard  to 
starboard?  he  sings  out,  with  an  audible  voice  ;  the  lift  is  topped 
several  feet  to  starboard,  and  then  to  port,  until  the  yard  assumes 
the  desired  cock  the  boatswain  has  in  his  eye  in  squaring  the 
loftier  yards  by  the  lifts.  Boatswains  seldom  take  the  precaution 
to  place  hands  to  tend  the  top-gallant  braces.  It  should  be  re- 
membered that  the  topping  of  the  lifts  alter  and  disturb  the  square 
position  of  the  yards  by  the  braces.  These  may  appear  minute 


214  THE  KEDGE-ANCHOR  ; 

matters,  but  unless  they  be  strictly  observed,  yards  never  can  be 
properly  squared. 

In  squaring  yards  by  the  lifts,  the  lanyards  should  always  be 
unrove  to  two  or  three  turns,  the  jigger  hooked  to  them  and 
hauled  taut ;  and  when  topping  on  one  lift  always  ease  the  op- 
posite lanyard  with  the  jigger ;  if  not,  the  lanyard  will  render 
with  jerks,  and  the  yard  will  probably  have  to  be  topped  the  op 
posite  way.  The  lanyards  should  be  rocked  when  sufficiently  up, 
the  plan  of  nipping  with  hands  being  a  lazy,  bad  practice  ;  and 
after  much  time  spent  in  getting  the  yards  nicely  squared,  the 
lanyards  have  come  up  in  securing.  The  ropes  should  be  all 
hauled  taut  before  the  boat  comes  on  board  ;  all  the  ropes  coiled 
neatly  and  low  in  the  tops ;  nothing  allowed  to  hang  over  the 
bows,  which  should  be  kept  quite  clear ;  and  everything  done  tc 
make  the  ship  appear  in  every  respect  what  a  man-of-war  ought 
to  be. 

Being  particular  in  one  part  and  not  in  another,  has  almost  a 
worse  appearance  than  slovenly  altogether.  As  the  ship  is  con- 
sidered a  would-be  man-of-war,  and  is  the  cause  of  many  re- 
marks, which,  if  heard  by  the  commanding  officer,  would  not  be 
at  all  complimentary  to  his  nautical  knowledge,  if  anything 
should  be  studied  more  than  another,  it  is  the  standing  rigging 
and  position  of  the  masts  and  yards,  &c.,  &c. 

Note. — Before  squaring  the  yards,  the  boatswain  is  recommend- 
ed to  see  that  the  masts,  and  particularly  the  lofty  spars,  are  up- 
right and  all  in  one.  It  frequently  happens  that  after  the  boat- 
swain has  squared  all  the  yards,  fore  and  aft,  he  detects  an 
awkward  inclination  in  one  of  the  topgallant-masts ;  he  never- 
theless returns  on  board,  and  reports  to  the  senior  lieutenant, 
yards  squared  and  ropes  taut,  but  afterwards  desires  the  captain 
of  the  top  to  get  a  pull  on  the  starboard  or  larboard  top-gallant 
breast-backstay,  forgetting  that  this  very  pull  affects  the  top-gal- 
lant lifts,  and  consequently  alters  the  position  of  the  yards.  The 
first  thing  after  the  masts  are  all  in  one,  or  upright,  as  you  choose 
to  term  it,  is  to  get  your  yards  exactly  amidships  by  rolling- 
tackles  ;  then  get  them  snugly  trussed  to  the  mast,  and  square 
them  by  the  braces,  before  proceeding  ahead  of  the  ship. 


392.— UP   TOP-GALLANT   MASTS  AND  YARDS— 

(The  Masts,  fyc.  being  on  deck.) 

One  watch  of  topmen  aloft,  to  get  jack  or  tail  blocks  on,  tor 
yard  ropes,  as  also  for  flying  jib  and  staysail  halliards  ;  if  the 
sails  are  about  to  be  loosed,  have  jiggers  on  the  topgallant  stays, 
ready  for  setting  up,  and  burtons  overhauled,  ready  for  clapping 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  215 

on  the  mast  ropes;  in  fielding,  the  other  watch  see  everything 
clear,  and  get  tackles  on  the  backstays,  ready  for  setting  up  the 
instant  the  mast  is  stayed. 


WORDS    OF    COMMAND. 

•* All  hands,  up  topgallant-masts  and  yards" — and  loose  sails 
if  requisite. 

"Sway  away" — let  the  masts  wait  for  each  other,  after 
placing  the  topgallant  rigging,  so  that  they  may  afterwards 
ascend  uniformly,  and  be  fielded  together.  Instantly  the  fids  are 
in,  stay  topgallant-masts,  and  set  up  the  quarter,  or  standing 
backstays  ;  then  without  waiting  for  more  of  the  rigging,  proceed 
to  cross  topgallant-yards  alone,  along  with  the  loosing  of  the 
sails,  as  may  be  requisite,  and  as  is  described  in  394. 

Remarks. — The  mast-heads  and  eyes  of  the  rigging,  or  fun 
nels,  should  be  greased. 

If  topgallant-sails  are  unbent,  and  royal  yard-ropes  good,  it 
will  make  the  work  of  crossing  topgallant-yards  all  the  easier,  to 
use  royal  in  place  of  topgallant-yard  ropes. 

If  there  be  no  capshore,  the  topmast  cap  is  apt  to  droop  for- 
ward, and  by  catching  and  jaming  the  topgallant-masts,  to  in- 
terfere materially  in  the  attempt  to  send  them  up  smartly ;  the 
caps  ought  therefore  to  be  well  looked  after.  If  the  topgallant, 
loyal,  and  skysail  masts,  be  all  in  one,  it  is  generally  found 
necessary  to  let  fall  the  bunts  of  the  topsails,  in  order  to  get  the 
masts  up ;  at  sea  the  yards  must  be  braced  up,  the  topsails  low- 
ered two-thirds  down,  and  the  mast  sent  up  to  windward 


393.— DOWN   TOPGALLANT-MASTS  AND   YARDS. 

One  watch,  or  part  of  a  watch  of  topmen,  aloft,  to  clear  away 
the  topgallant  rigging,  unreeve  flying-jib  and  staysail-halliards, 
get  jack  or  tail-blocks  on,  for  royal  and  topgallant  yard-ropesr 
and  burtons  on  the  mast-ropes. 

The  other  watch  of  topmen  on  deck,  unlace  the  backstay-mats, 
and  slack  the  oackstay  lanyards. 

When  ready,  "sway  away"  two  hands  at  the  mast-head  look- 
ing out  for  the  fids,  the  lanyards  of  which  they  should  be  cau- 
tioned to  see  fast ;  and  two  on  topsail-yard  to  bear  the  heel  clear, 
and  make  fast  heel-rope. 

When  the  fids  are  out,  hang  the  backstays  to  the  tops,  lower 
all  the  masts  together,  and  get  heel-ropes  on,  which  should  be  in 
readiness,  from  the  deck  to  the  fid-holes. 


THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR: 

If  the  rigging  does  not  start  easily,  sway  and  surge  without 
delay;  clap  on  the  lizard  through  the  royal-halliard  sheave-hole, 
as  soon  as  it  can  be  got  at ;  then  lower  the  masts  on  deck,  eithei 
placing  them  fore  and  aft,  or  up  and  down  the  lower  masts. 

Haul  the  rigging  and  backstays  taut  down  from  the  mast- 
heads, and  stop  them  down  along  the  topmast  rigging,  coiling 
away  the  slack  bights  snug  in  the  tops;  also  haul  taut  the  stays 
and  all  the  small  ropes. 

See  that  the  trucks  are  fairly  placed,  so  that  the  signal-hal- 
liards may  traverse  freely. 

If  the  masts  are  only  housed,  haul  the  topgallant  rigging  and 
backstays  taut,  as  above,  but  stay  the  royal-masts,  and  sheep- 
shank and  set  up  the  royal  backstays  and  shrouds,  if  there 
be  any,  or  what  is  preferable,  stop  the  slack  part  in  bights,  and 
then  set  up  ;  also  steady  the  heels  of  the  topgallant-masts  to  the 
topmast  by  a  heel-rope. 

Remarks. — The  yards,  according  to  circumstances,  may  be 
either  sent  down  at  the  moment  you  begin  to  lower  the  mast?, 
or  at  that  when  you  begin  to  sway  the  masts,  in  order  to  take 
out  the  fid.  The  former  has  the  best  effect,  but  in  that  case  it  is 
essential  to  have  picked  hands  to  lower,  and  not  to  commence 
lowering  until  the  lower  yard-arm  is  unrigged. 


394.— CROSSING    TOPGALLANT   AND  ROYAL-YARDS, 
AND  LOOSING  SAIL. 

That  all  the  squadron  may  be  prepared  to  cross  yards  anrl 
loose  sail  at  eight,  or  for  any  other  manoeuvre,  deemed  proper  at 
the  hoisting  of  the  colors,  the  flag  ship  sometimes  makes  it  a  rule 
to  designate  seven  bells,  that  is  7  H.  30  M.,  by  giving  the  prepar- 
atory signal.  The  squadron  have  then  an  opportunity  of  regu 
lating  their  time  by  the  Commodore's,  and  making  such  prepara 
lions  for  eight  as  may  be  necessary. 

If  this  be  done,  and  another  very  proper  rule  enforced,  viz. : 
the  allowing  no  one,  on  any  account,  to  be  aloft  between  five 
minutes  before  eight,  and  the  time  of  making  the  signal,  every 
ship  will  be  upon  an  equal  footing  in  the  keen  competition 
which  immediately  ensues. 

PREPARATIONS. 

Send  the  hands  aloft  to  overhaul  the  lifts  and  braces ;  prepare 
studding-sail-booms  for  tricing  up,  bend  the  top  bowlines  to  the 
auntline  toggles,  overhaul  the  gear  of  the  courses,  coiling  it 


UK  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  21? 

down  on  the  lower  yards,  and  take  the  cloths  and  half  the  gas- 
kets off  the  fore  and  aft  sail ;  also  stretch  along  and  reeve  the 
yard-ropes. 


WORDS    OF    COMMAND. 

"  Ail  hands,  cross  yards  and  loose  sails ;" 

"  Aloft,  topmen ;" 

"Aloft,  sail  loosers ;" 

Sway  out  of  the  chains — viz. :  upper  topgallant  yard-arms 
slear  of  top-rims,  or  lubber's-hole ;  royal  yard-arms  clear  of  cross 
trees. 

"  Sway  away  ;"  trice  up,  lay  out. 

"Sway  across — let  fall," — the  men  at  the  same  time  hoisting 
jibs  and  staysails,  hauling  out  the  bowlines,  getting  down  the 
squaring-marks  of  topgallant  and  royal  lifts  and  braces,  and 
hoisting  ensign,  jack,  and  pendant. 

A  boat  should  then  be  manned  without  delay,  for  the  boat- 
swain to  go  ahead,  look  at  the  yards,  see  the  head-sails  taut  up, 
the  bowline  properly  out,  and  everything  ready  for  shortening 
sail. 

If  the  bowlines  are  not  to  be  hauled  out,  and,  in  consequence, 
the  jibs  and  staysails  not  hoisted,  nor  the  sheets  of  trysail  and 
spanker  hauled  aft,  proceed  as  follows,  viz. : — 

Keep  fast,  the  topsail  clewlines,  and  haul  up  the  buntJmes ; 
throw  the  jibs  out  off  the  booms  without  touching  the  halliards, 
and  slack  off  the  trysail  and  spanker-brails ;  overhaul  the  brails 
on  one  side  and  haul  them  up — on  the  other  loose  the  small 
sails  enough  for  the  wind  to  blow  through,  which  will  prevent 
their  heating,  and  even  should  it  rain  slightly,  will  avert  much 
harm. 

Remark. — The  frequent  loosing  of  the  sails  is  essential,  to 
prevent  them  from  mildewing,  particularly  when  new,  and  before 
the  gum  has  been  shaken  out. 


395.— TOPMAST   CARRIED    AWAY. 

I  would  recommend  vessels  to  use  curb-chain,  for  parrels  for 
topsail-yards  ;  let  it  be  wormed,  parceled  and  covered  with  leather; 
the  seizings  must  be  frequently  examined.  Carrying  away  a 
parrel  may  occasion  a  serious  loss  of  life,  should  there  happen  to 
be  any  men  on  the  yard  at  the  time,  and  even  if  there  are  not, 
this  accident  is  veiy  likely  to  carry  away  the  topmast. 

The  funnels  used  for  top-gallant  rigging,  are  frequently  used  for 
topmast  rigging;  they  are  also  very  serviceable,  and  if  a  topmast  ia 


218  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR  ; 

carried  away,  the  funnel  is  then  invaluable,  as  the  topmast  ma$ 
be  shifted  so  much  more  quickly,  the  rigging  remaining  properly 
placed. 


396.— CLEARING    THE  WRECK    OF  A    TOPMAST. 

Watch  on  deck  to  secure  the  wreck,  and  prevent  its  doing  in- 
jury— watch  below  to  shorten  sail.  Hook  top-blocks,  reeve  in 
them  two  hawsers ;  the  stoutest  to  leeward,  for  passing  round 
and  securing  the  wreck,  in  order  to  get  the  rigging  &c.  in-board. 

Hook  luff-tackles  in  the  lower  pendants — let  the  other  topgal- 
lant yards  be  sent  down,  and  the  topgallant  masts  housed  until 
the  topmast  is  shifted.  If  it  be  a  fore-topmast  that  is  carried 
away,  ease  in  the  jib-boom — cut  the  lanyards  of  the  topmast  rig- 
ging, securing  the  dead-eyes  by  studding-sail-halliards. 

The  weather-hawser  may  be  employed  to  unfid  the  stump. 


397.— CARRYING  AWAY  A  JIB-BOOM. 

Send  down  the  fore-topgallant-yard,  and  house  the  fore-topgal- 
lant-mast; use  the  fore-topmast  staysail-halliards,  and  lee-fore- 
bowline,  for  securing  and  getting  in  the  wreck. 


398.— TO   FISH  A  LOWER  YARD  IN  THE  SHORTEST 

TIME. 

Incalculable  are  the  evils  which  may  result  to  a  vessel  from 
the  springing  or  snapping  of  a  lower  yard,  especially  the  fore  one. 

If  the  yard  be  severed,  get  both  pieces  down  on  deck,  and  place 
them  together,  to  assume,  as  near  as  possible,  their  original  posi- 
tion. Hollow  out,  so  as  to  fit  the  cylindrical  surface  of  the  yard, 
two  spare  anchor-stock  pieces,  (or  two  proper  fishes  always  fitted, 
and  to  be  kept  as  spare  stores),  in  doing  which,  a  depth  of  two  01 
three  inches  will  suffice ;  place  one  piece  on  the  top,  and  the 
other  secured  to  the  under  part  of  the  yard,  towards  the  extrem- 
ities ;  dub  down  the  superfluous  wood,  and  round  the  edges, 
ready  to  receive  the  requisite  wooldings. 

Previous  to  boring  holes  for  the  bolts,  set  close-to  the  anchor- 
stock  pieces,  with  wedge  upon  wedge ;  introduce  then  eight  bolts, 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  219 

Dl  three-quarter  inch  diameter,  which  must  be  severally  clinched. 
Cut  scores  for  eight  wooldings,  and  woold  away  with  well-stretch- 
ed rope,  of  two-and-a-half  inch.  The  yard  may  then  be  replaced 
aloft.  There  will  be  found  no  necessity  for  studding-sail  booms, 
or  other  spare  spars. 


399.— EXPECTATION   OF  LOSING    A    LOWER    MAST. 

Every  vessel  should  have  a  spare  lower  cap  on  board  ;  it  should 
be  in  two  parts  (for  the  convenience  of  stowing),  with  bolts  for 
securing  it  together. 

In  the  event  of  losing  a  lower  mast,  the  cap  put  on  the  spare 
topmasts,  and  then  raised  on  the  stump  of  the  lower  mast  (hav- 
ing been  previously  fitted  for  it),  at  once  enables  a  jury  mast  to 
be  stopped  and  secured ;  clap  on  a  good  heel  lashing. 

Those  vessels  which  have  lower  dead-eyes  secured  to  the  side, 
are  enabled  to  get  clear  of  the  wreck  of  a  lower  mast  more  read- 
ily than  those  with  the  old  channels  and  chain  plates.  Those 
which  are  fitted  in  the  last  mentioned  manner,  when  likely  to 
lose  a  lower  mast,  should  reeve  a  hawser  through  the  lanyards 
of  the  rigging  on  each  side,  and  have  it  well  secured  ;  they  will 
then  be  enabled  to  disengage  the  lanyards  from  the  channels,  and 
get  clear  of  the  wreck,  whose  thumping  might  otherwise  injure 
either  the  ship's  bottom  or  rudder. 


4OO.— LYING-TO  IN  A  GALE,  AFTER  THE    LOSS    OP 

MASTS. 

Put  a  stout  span  on  a  spare  topmast  or  other  large  spar,  and 
veer  a  long  scope  on  a  hawser,  or  stream  chain-cable,  from  the 
bow,  by  a  spring  on  it  from  aft ;  it  may  be  used  for  wearing. 
The  wreck  of  a  mast  would  answer  well  for  lying-to  with,  and 
when  the  weather  became  fine,  the  spars  and  rigging  would  ma- 
terially assist  in  refitting  jury  masts. 


4O1.— SPARS   TO   CONVERT  IN  CASE  OF  NEED. 

Officers  will  do  well  to  consider  what  spars  they  have  on  board 
which  can  be  the  most  readily  and  efficiently  converted,  so  as  to 
supply  the  place  of  any  which  may  be  lost. 


220  THE  KEDGE-A.NCHOR; 

A  spare  topmast,  or  if  in  a  brig,  a  main-boom,  are  the  spare 
that  could  be  the  most,  quickly  converted  into  a  jury  lower  mast, 
or  bowsprit ;  a  mizen-mast  would  be  still  better,  if  the  weather 
would  permit  its  being  shifted. 

A  topmast  studding-sail  boom,  with  the  sail  as  a  lug,  rnaives  a 
sufficiently  good  mizen. 

If  the  bowsprit  is  sprung,  let  the  jib-boom  be  eased  in  nearly 
to  the  bulwark.  When  a  vessel  is  lying- to,  and  there  is  a  heavy 
sea  running,  it  would  be  prudent  to  have  tackles  up  for  steadying 
the  foremast,  as  in  the  event  of  the  bowsprit  being  struck,  and 
either  sprung  or  carried  away,  the  mast  would  be  saved. 

A  jib-boom  will  answer  well  for  making  a  topsail  yard. 

Note. — It  is  surprising  how  well  vessels  answer  when  jury  rig- 
ged, and  in  many  cases  will  sail  nearly  as  fast  as  when  they 
have  there  proper  masts,  yards,  and  sails. 

Sails  may  be  reduced  by  taking  out  midship  cloths,  and  by  the 
head  for  depth. 

When  vessels  take  the  ground,  from  a  falling  tide,  or  any  other 
sause,  they  ought  to  be  prepared  with  three  shores  on  a  side,  the 
lower  ends  a  little  off. 

The  first  abreast  the  foremast : 

The  second  amidships : 

The  third  abaft  the  main-sheet  sheave. 

A  measure  should  be  previously  taken  of  the  exact  depth  from 
the  bulwark  to  the  ground.  The  lower  end  of  the  shores  require 
some  weight,  and  a  flat  piece  for  a  shoe  secured  on  each,  if  the 
ground  is  soft.  On  the  upper  end  of  each  shore  there  should  be 
a  cleat  on  the  fore  side  and  after  side,  for  securing  the  lashing  to 
the  bulwark. 

For  small  vessels,  two  shores  on  each  side  would  be  sufficient ; 
one  might  be  under  the  fore,  and  one  under  the  main  channel. 
The  preparation  of  shores  will  be  found  to  be  a  very  useful  one ; 
many  vessels  fall  over  on  the  water  leaving  them,  and  then  run 
considerable  risk  of  filling,  or  not  righting  again. 


4O2.— GETTING  AGBOUND. 

If  a  vessel  gets  aground  (the  weather  being  moderate),  first  get 
over  the  spare  topmasts  on  one  side,  and  the  jib-boom  on  the  other, 
as  shores  abreast  of  the  mainmast,  or  a  little  before  it ;  secure 
some  weight  to  the  heel  of  each  ;  a  few  shot,  or  a  light  pig  of  bal- 
last will  do  for  that  purpose,  and  if  the  ground  is  soft,  nail  on  a 
piece  of  plank  as  a  shoe.  Furl  sails,  out  all  boats,  down  topgal- 
lant yards,  and  send  topgallant  masts  on  deck ;  start  water,  and 
pump  it  out;  lay  out  a  bower  anchor;  be  sure  that  it  is  so  laid 
that  the  ship  does  not  ground  on  it. 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  221 

Every  officer  should  make  himself  well  acquainted  with  the 
readiest  mode  of  hanging  and  carrying  out  a  bower  anchor,  as 
far  as  relates  to  the  weight  of  those  belonging  to  his  own  vessel, 
and  the  description  of  boats  he  has  to  use.  If  he  cannot  heave 
off,  he  must  then  endeavor  to  lighten  the  vessel  by  discharging 
part  of  the  cargo. 

Before  heaving  off,  an  examination  ought  to  be  made,  so  as  to 
ascertain,  as  near  as  possible,  the  extent  of  the  injury  which  the 
vessel  has  received  since  aground,  if  the  shore  be  rocky,  that  it 
may  be  remedied  before  heaving  off,  if  possible ;  if  the  vessel  has 
run  on  with  much  way,  it  is  possible  that  she  may  not  float,  even 
if  she  were  got  off.  In  this  case  the  lives  of  the  passengers  and 
crew  become  the  first  consideration. 


4O3.— THE   BALLAST   SHIFTING  AT   SEA. 

This  frequently  occasions  losses  at  sea.  To  prevent  its  occur- 
rence, when  iron  ballast  is  stowed,  let  a  few  oak  battens  be  nailed 
from  the  sides  athwart  ships,  to  secure  it ;  or  when  shingle  bal- 
hist  is  used,  place  a  light  flooring  over  it,  secured  by  a  few  bat- 
tins  athwart  ships.  This  would  most  probably  prevent  such  a 
calamity,  which  usually  occurs  when  a  vessel  is  struck  by  a 
heavy  sea,  or  when  hove  on  her  beam  ends,  and  prevents  the 
possibility  of  her  righting  again ;  when  the  ballast  is  stowed,  it 
ought  to  be  secured  at  the  same  time  from  shifting ;  this  is  of 
great  moment,  and  a  few  strong  battens  will  do  it.  Also  have 
shifting  boards  amidships,  nailed  to  the  stanchions. 


4O4.— VESSELS    SURPRISED    ON    OPPOSITE    TACKS. 

In  cases  of  surprise  and  danger,  from  the  accidental  meeting 
of  two  ships  on  opposite  tacks,  in  the  night,  it  too  often  happens 
that  officers  are  more  apt  to  give  orders  to  the  stranger,  than  to 
rake  any  measure  of  precaution  themselves  ;  such  as  hailing  to 
put  the  helm  up  or  down,  and  to  clear  them,  when  they  may  be 
as  much  in  fault,  and  possess  the  same  means  of  extricating 
themselves  from  the  difficulty.  In  situations  of  this  sort,  it  is 
much  better  that  both  parties  should  put  their  helms  down  rather 
than  up ;  the  ships  will  approach  each  other  for  a  time,  but  will 
diminish  in  velocity,  and  afterwards  separate. 

Obstinacy,  or  a  want  of  judgment  in  the  directing  parties,  fre- 
quently leads  both  vp«sels  to  bear  up  at  the  same  instant ;  con- 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

sequently  causing  immediate  collision.  It  is  a  universal  rule 
with  seamen,  that  where  there  is  doubt,  the  vessel  on  the  lar- 
board tack  is  to  bear  up  or  to  heave  about,  for  the  vessel  on  the 
starboard  tack ;  were  this  prudent  regulation  strictly  adhered 
to,  and  never  violated  by  the  obstinacy  of  parties,  accidents 
would  seldom  occur;  but  it  sometimes  happens  that  incidental 
circumstances  induce  both  parties  to  risk  "a  trial  of  skill,"  by 
one  endeavoring  to  wreather  the  other.  In  these  cases  doubt  and 
hesitation  generally  prevail,  and  disaster  is  sure  to  follow 


405.— MEETING  AT  SEA. 


Bend  on  the  ensign  and  pendant,  if  a  private  ship 
Hoist  the  ensign  and  pendant,  when  sufficiently  near,  if  the 
vessel  you  are  meeting  be  a  ship  of  war. 
In  hailing,  the  ordinary  questions  commence  thus ; 
"What  ship  is  that?" 
"Whence  come  you?" 
"Where  are  you  bound?"  &c.,  &c. 


406.— A  HINT   ON  RUNNING  TOO   LONG. 

Tessels  ought  not  to  run  too  long,  when  the  sea  is  high  and 
breaking,  but  bring-to  in  time,  and  do  so  by  daylight  if  possible 


OR    YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  JJ23 


4O7.— A  HINT   ON  ROUNDING-TO  IN  A  GALE. 

An  experienced  seaman  remarks,  that  when  he  wished  to 
bring-to  in  a  hard  gale,  when  running  before  a  heavy  sea,  he 
always  watched  for  a  heavy  sea  breaking  abaft  the  main  chains, 
and  immediately  after,  he  eased  the  helm  down,  and  rounded-to 
at  once,  being  previously  prepared  for  doing  so.  In  managing 
this  way,  he  found  he  could  avoid  shipping  a  sea. 


408.— ON  MAKING  YOUR  PORT. 

Never  run  for  your  port  in  very  heavy  gales,  or  thick  weather. 
Jinless  sure  of  the  ship's  position. 

Note. — There  are  some  ports,  that  may  be  entered  with  safety 
at  night  by  sailing  vessels,  but  there  are  many  more  where  it 
cannot  be  attempted,  without  great  risk  of  getting  aground,  or 
being  wrecked. 

I  do  not  know  anything  to  compensate  for  running  that  risk, 
except  an  urgent  necessity ;  as,  when  anchored,  nothing  can  be 
done  until  morning.     Lay-to  in  preference,  and  carry  a  light  at 
the  main-stay  at  night.     Gales  do  not  last  long,  and  finer  wea 
ther  follows. 

While  lying- to  in  gales,  always  keep  the  ship  steering  with  the 
helm  nearly  "amidships," — n ever  let  it  be  kept  "a  lee"  as  the 
ship  will  not  be  under  command  without  steerage-way,  or  be 
safe  and  easv. 


409.— LYING  OFF,  AND  ON,  TO  ENTER  A  PORT. 

I  have  known  so  many  vessels  wrecked  while  lying-to  with  a 
topsail  to  the  mast,  with  their  head  in  shore,  that  I  recommend 
(if  it  is  moderate  weather),  to  make  short  tacks,  under  easy  sail, 
as  then  the  ship's  place  can  always  be  kept  worked  up ;  whereas 
her  drift  while  lying-to  is  uncertain.  Let  the  tacks  in  shore  be 
shorter  than  the  ones  off,  to  give  the  coast  a  good  berth.  It  is 
better  to  be  a  mile  further  out  than  to  get  aground. 


224  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

41O.— TO  ANCHOR  AND  VEER  A  LONG  SCOPE 
OF  CABLE. 

Whenever,  and  wherever  you  anchor,  veer  a  long  scope  of  ca 
ble  at  once, — never  lay  snort  unless  when  getting  underweigh, 
No  ship  ought  to  lay  at  single  anchor  for  more  than  a  few  hours. 
Moor  with  a  whole  cable  each  way,  as  soon  as  possible.  All  ves- 
sels ought  to  have  swivels,  and  moor  with  one,  to  keep  a  clear 
hawse. 

Bend  the  sheet-cable,  and  see  the  anchor  clear  for  let  ting  go  as 
soon  as  you  have  moored.  In  the  winter,  be  prepared  for  strik- 
ing lower  yards  and  topmasts,  if  necessary. 


411.— PREPARATIONS  FOR  GOING  INTO  HARBOR. 

The  paint  work  outside  should  be  scrubbed,  and,  if  the  wea- 
ther permit,  freshen  up  where  most  wanted — for  instance,  under 
the  bows.  The  masts  should  be  scraped  and  properly  stayed, 
the  tips  of  studding-sail  booms  painted,  and  the  rigging  slightly 
touched  with  blacking,  when  brown  or  worn.  The  good  order 
of  the  ratlines  should  be  attended  to,  swinging-boom  ladders  and 
pendants  got  ready,  and  all  the  chafing-gear  taken  off.  The 
boats'  sails  and  awnings  should  be  clean  and  ready  for  use,  the 
masts  and  oars  scraped,  scrubbed,  or  painted,  as  required ;  the 
Bmokesail  clean,  also  the  wind-sails.  Clean  hammocks  may  be 
slung,  and  neatly  stowed.  The  cables  (including  the  sheet,  if  it 
blows  hard),  should  be  bent  in  plenty  of  time,  &c.  &c.  The 
ship's  company  clean  and  in  uniform — the  accommodation  lad- 
der got  ready,  and  in  good  order  for  shipping  when  at  anchor. 


412.— CAUTIONS  AT   NIGHT— (LOOKOUTS). 

A  good  lookout  should  be  kept  at  night.  As  soon  as  it  is 
dark,  every  vessel  should  carry  a  light  under  the  fore-top ;  this 
should  be  a  rule,  and  not  even  left  optional.  If  this  light  were 
carried  in  a  lantern  with  green  glass,  the  distinguishing  light  of 
a  sailing  vessel  would  be  known.  Steamers  on  the  coast,  bays, 
or  harbors,  usually  carry  wheel-house  lights,  as  well  as  a  mast- 
head one. 

The  sea-going  steamers  mostly  carry  two  horizontal  lights — 
they  are  therefore  easily  distinguished.  Sailing  vessels  on  the 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  225 

soast  ought  always  to  have  a  light  kept  on  deck  (in  a  tub  OP 
bucket,  for  shading  it),  ready  to  be  shown,  as  steamers  sometimes 
come  up  astern. 

A  musket  loaded  with  blank  cartridge  is  useful  as  a  signal  to 
call  attention,  and  should  be  kept  ready  at  hand. 

A  vessel  on  the  starboard  lack  should  show  a  light  at  the  lee- 
cathead.  A  vessel  on  the  larboard  tack  should  show  a  light  on 
the  weather  cathead. 


413.— WHEN  TWO  VESSELS  AKE  IN  COLLISION. 

If  in  a  tide's  way,  and  in  less  than  ten  fathoms,  the  headmost 
one  should  anchor  either  with  a  stream  or  bower,  as  most  con- 
venient. 

If  on  soundings  from  thirty  to  ten  fathoms,  the  headmost  ves- 
sel should  drop  a  kedge-anchor. 

If  vessels  get  foul  of  each  other  in  deep  water  (should  the 
weather  be  sufficiently  moderate),  get  a  boat  ahead  of  the  head- 
most and  another  astern  of  the  sternmost,  and  two  apart  in  op- 
posite ways. 

If  a  vessel  anchor  too  close  in  another's  hawse,  the  one  r.ext 
ahead  of  her  should  send  her  a  tow-line,  with  which  she  mignt 
pass  a  hawser  on  board  to  enable  her  to  warp  clear. 


41 4.— SQUALLS— (CAUTION). 

They  usually  give  some  notice  by  gathering  up  black  in  the 
horizon.  If  the  darkness  rises  up  and  thins  away  at  the  bottom, 
it  will  not  be  strong ;  but  if  it  still  continues  thick  in  the  horizon, 
expect  wind.  Shorten  sail  before  it  comes.  Clouds  high,  with 
hard  edges,  denote  dry  and  strong  winds.  A  large  halo  around 
the  moon  betokens  high  wind.  Be  guarded  when  clouds  pass 
overhead — the  strength  of  the  wind  is  then  very  often  most  felt. 


415.— WATER  SPOUTS— (CAUTION). 

A  water-spout  appears  like  a  speaking-trumpet,  with  the  small 
ends  downwards.  (It  is  said  the  concussion  caused  by  firing 
guns  is  likely  to  disperse  it.)  If  one  should  be  near,  and  iikely 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

to  break  on  board,  clew-up  and  furl  all  (see  the  topsail  clew-lines 
are  afterwards  belayed)  batten  the  hatches,  have  scupper  clear 
and  pumps  ready,  and  spar-deck  ports  out. 


416.— PRESSURE   OF  WATER  AT  DIFFERENT 
DEPTHS. 

If  a  ship  has  the  flattest  part  of  her  bottom  lying  sixteen  feet 
deep  (which  is  often  the  case),  the  water  then  presses  sixteen 
times  as  much  upwards  against  this  flat  part,  as  it  does  upon 
any  part  of  the  same  ship  about  the  waters'  edge  ;  and  so  on  any 
other  part,  according  to  the  depth.  For  example,  suppose  this 
ship  to  have  four  leaks,  or  plug  holes  of  equal  size,  that  could  be 
driven  out  occasionally — the  first  at  one  foot  under  water,  th« 
second  at  four  feet,  the  third  at  nine  feet,  and  the  lowest  at  six- 
teen feet,  in  the  flat  part  of  her  bilge;  that  hole  at  four  feet  deep 
would  leak  or  let  in  as  much  water  again,  in  the  same  time,  as 
that  at  one  foot ;  and  that  at  nine  feet,  three  times  as  much ; 
and  that  at  sixteen  feet,  four  times  as  much,  though  it  run  into 
the  ship  upwards  ;  and  so  on  in  proportion  to  the  square  root  of 
the  height  of  the  water  above  the  leak  or  plug  hole.  Therefore 
leaks  in  ships  are  more  or  less  dangerous,  according  to  theit 
depth  under  water. 

Note. — On  first  springing  a  leak,  it  will  rush  in  faster  until  the 
water  inside  is  as  high  as  the  place  where  the  leak  is  ;  and  will 
pour  in  less  the  higher  it  gets  inside. 


417.— ON   STOPPING  LEAKS. 

If  we  reflect  on  the  present  mode,  so  constantly  practiced,  of 
watering,  by  means  of  a  canvass  hose  from  the  shore,  through 
the  salt-water  into  the  boat,  we  can  have  little  doubt  of  the  reten- 
tive power  of  canvass.  When  it  can  be  at  all  ascertained  where 
a  leak  is  situated  (provided  it  be  not  too  near  the  keel,  or  too 
much  in  the  run),  if  it  be  in  any  part  where  you  can  bring  a  sail 
in  contact  with  it,  so  as  to  cover  it,  remember  that  a  canvass 
hose,  when  once  saturated,  becomes  tolerably  water-tight.  If 
part  of  a  sail  of  No.  1  canvass  be  doubled  and  brought  by  ropes 
to  cover  the  leak,  though  it  may  not  stop  it,  there  can  be  no 
doubt  it  will  materially  assist  in  reducing  it. 

This  canvass  wmst  be  well  and  strongly  roped  and  stitcher? 


OR  YOUN<5  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 

together,  and  it  had  better  not  be  too  large ;  the  smaller  it  is, 
(provided  the  purpose  be  answered),  the  better ;  as  it  will  be  less 
likely  to  be  torn  away.  In  placing  it,  the  rope  ought  to  be  out- 
wards. This  double  canvass  may  be  placed  in  its  position  by 
ropes  under  the  keel  or  out  of  the  hawse-hole.  A  sail  might  be 
used  for  this  purpose. 


418.— EXAMINATION  OF  CHAIN  CABLES. 

The  cables  must  be  got  on  deck,  pins  and  bolts  driven  out  of 
the  shackles,  and  well  cleaned  and  white  leaded ;  every  link 
sounded  with  a  hammer  by  the  armorer,  and  some  of  the  lengths 
transposed.  Splicing  pieces  and  spare  shackles  should  be  re- 
membered at  the  same  time,  and  treated  in  the  same  way. 

Note. — Wooden  pins  are  frequently  used  in  connecting  the 
shackles,  not  being  liable  to  rust,  and  can  always  be  taken  out 
easy.  Hickcry  is  the  best  wood  to  make  them  of. 


419.— MINUTE  GUNS. 

If  more  than  one  ship  be  present,  minute  guns  are  not  usually 
fired  by  all  at  the  same  time,  as  in  a  common  salute,  but  one 
ship  follows  another,  taking  up  the  firing  in  succession. 

The  interval  between  the  firing  of  each  two  guns  must  of 
course  be  determined  by  the  number  of  guns  to  be  fired,  and  the 
time  through  which  they  are  to  be  prolonged — a  point  which  is 
optional,  and  sometimes  extended  through  the  day. 


228 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


420.— HOISTING   ON   BOARD  MONEY  OR  PLATE. 

In  hoisting  on  board  money,  plate,  or  other  valuables,  a  buoy 
and  buoy-rope,  corresponding  to  the  depth  of  water,  ought  always 
to  be  attached  thereto,  that  in  case  of  anything  giving  way,  or 
the  money  or  plate  going  to  the  bottom,  there  may  be  a  ready 
means  of  recovery  at  hand.  For  boxes  of  treasure,  strong  nets, 
hi  place  of  slings,  are  most  useful  and  'most  safe. 

Note. — Money  nets  are  made  like  a  common  wad-net,  except- 
ing that  the  meshes  are  made  smaller  and  the  stuff  larger,  say 
of  a  two-inch  rope. 


PART   VIII. 


421.— STOWING  HAMMOCKS. 

Nothing  adds  more  to  the  smart  and  favorable  appearance  of 
a  vessel  of  war  than  a  neat  stowage  of  hammocks.  The  superin- 
tendants  of  this  necessary  duty  are  often  at  fault,  forgetting  that 
negligence  in  the  performance  of  this  service  is  seldom  permitted 
to  pass  unnoticed. 

In  the  stowage  of  hammocks,  the  officer  should  stand  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  deck,  a  position  which  will  enable  him  to 
preserve  a  symmetrical  line,  and  guide  and  direct  the  stower  in 
nis  progress  fore  and  aft  the  netting ;  they  are  also  enjoined  to 
be  careful  that  the  hammocks  of  the  men  be  properly  lashed  up. 
Defaulters  in  this  particular  should  be  reported  to  the  First  Lieu- 
tenant. Seven  turns  at  equal  distances,  is  the  required  number 
of  turns  with  a  hammock-lashing. 

Note. — In  piping-down  hammocks,  the  officers  are  cautioned 
not  to  permit  the  men  to  throw  them  on  the  deck. 


I.  \BHING   UP   HAMJHOCKS 


230  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

422.— COCKBILLING   YARDS— (Mourning). 

The  most  appropriate  time  for  cockbilling  yards  seems  to  be 
daylight,  and  dark  the  most  proper  time  for  squaring  them  again ; 
the  day  then  looks  as  if  it  were  issued  in  and  closed  with  mourn 
Ing. 

At  8,  or  the  hour  of  hoisting  the  colors  half-mast,  sway  up  the 
top-gallant  yards,  slip  the  lizard,  parrel  the  yards,  and  cockhill 
them  with  the  others  previously  reversed. 

To  allow  the  lower  yards  to  top  up  properly,  the  trusses  must 
be  slacked  ;  and  if  the  topsail  sheets  are  of  chain  and  go  with  a 
whip,  one  of  them  must  be  unshackled  from  the  clew,  and  to  as- 
sist the  lift  in  topping,  a  burton  is  required. 

To  allow  the  topsail  yards  to  top  up  properly,  they  must  be 
hoisted  two  feet  or  so  off  the  caps,  the  parrels  and  braces  must 
be  slacked,  and  paunch  mats  taken  out ;  if  there  are  jaws  on, 
slack  the  jaw-rope.  Trysail  and  spanker  gaff  should  be  lowered 
well  down,  and  swinging  booms  dropped  into  the  water. 

The  way  of  topping  the  yards  ought  to  be  governed  by  the 
side  on  which  the  top-gallant  yards  are  sent  up :  for  instance, 
if  the  main-top-gallant  yard  be  sent  up  on  the  starboard  side,  the 
main  and  main-topsail  yards  should  be  topped  to  port.  The 
squaring  them,  when  topped,  should  be  done  with  reference  to 
lower  yards ;  which,  in  the  first  place,  are  topped  as  high  as  the 
top  rims  will  allow ;  then  being  squared  by  the  braces,  the  top 
sail  and  top-gallant  yards  have  only  to  be  parallel. 


423.— DRESSING  SHIP  WITH  FLAGS. 

Though  in  some  particulars  the  following  remarks  on  dressing 
vnth  flags  refer  peculiarly  to  ships  in  general,  they  are  applicable 
to  all  classes  of  vessels ;  so  much  so  indeed,  that  but  little  varia- 
tion will  be  found  necessary  in  applying  them  to  line-of-battle 
ships,  and  so  on  down  to  a  schooner. 

One  mode  of  dressing  a  ship  with  flags  is  to  make  an  arch  of 
them  from  the  flying-jib-boom  to  the  spanker-boom-end  ;  another 
is  to  trice  the  flags  up  by  the  signal  halliards,  stopping  them  out 
to  the  yard-arms  :  but  the  best  way,  perhaps,  is  to  combine  these 
two  modes,  if  there  be  flags  enough.  Hoisted  to  the  trucks  ought 
to  be  the  ensign,  jack,  or  the  flags  of  the  nation  in  whose  port 
the  ship  is  lying,  or  whom  it  is  wished  particularly  *.o  honor ; 
and  to  give  these  room  to  display  themselves,  the  rest  of  the  flags 
should  only  be  triced  as  high  as  the  top-gallant  mast-head. 

If  it  be  determined  to  combine  the  two  modes  of  dressing,  as 
mentioned  above,  that  is,  with  up  and  down  flags,  as  well  aa 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  £31 

with  an  arch,  it  will  prevent  confusion  and  superabundance,  and 
produce  an  equally  good  effect  to  have  up  and  down  flags  at  the 
main  only ;  and  to  hoist  them,  whips  or  halliards  should  be 
placed  for  the  purpose,  through  the  top-gallant  studding-sail  hal- 
liard blocks,  and  taken  outside  the  brace  blocks. 

The  flying-jib  halliards  will  hoist  the  foremost  part  of  the 
arch,  viz. :  that  which  extends  from  the  flying-boom-end  to  the 
fore-top-gallant  mast-head.  To  the  mizen- top-gallant  mast-head 
it  must  be  hoisted  by  a  whip  placed  for  the  purpose,  and  hauled 
out  to  the  gaff-end  by  a  whip. 

From  the  gaff-end  the  flags  composing  the  arch  drop  to  the 
water,  being  stopped  out  to  the  boom-end,  and  distended  under 
it,  as  well  as  under  the  flying-boom,  by  small  hand-leads :  there 
ought  also  to  be  downhauls  on  the  arch  ;  also  whips  with  down- 
hauls  between  top-gallant  mast-heads.  Care  and  taste  are  ne- 
cessary in  sorting  and  placing  the  flags.  The  ensigns  should  be 
in  corresponding  places — for  instance  at  the  lower  yard-arms. 
The  square  flags  should  all  be  together ;  also  cornets,  pendants, 
&c.,  or  else  a  square  flag  and  cornet  alternately,  and  so  on. 

Bad  feeling  is  sometimes  occasioned,  when  foreign  ships-of-war 
are  assembled,  by  placing  national  colors  injudiciously,  in  dress- 
ing ship.  This  ought  to  be  studiously  avoided.  This  fact  has 
uiven  rise  to  the  practice,  on  "  gala  days,"  of  hoisting  nothing  but 
the  national  flags  at  each  mast-head,  or,  if  in  honor  of  another 
ration,  the  flag  of  that  nation  at  the  fore. 

One  principal  beauty,  however,  of  the  manoeuvre  in  question, 
1,3  to  have  everything  so  prepared  and  foreseen,  that  immediately 
the  yards  are  crossed,  and  decently  squared,  and  the  mast-head 
flags  broke,  all  the  others  may  be  triced  up  so  as  to  find  their 
places  readily  and  without  confusion,  hands  previously  prepared, 
Uying-out  together  at  the  same  time  to  each  yard-arm,  stopping 
the  up  and  down  flag-halliards  there  :  and  then  at  the  "word," 
laying-in  together. 

At  sunset,  the  best  way,  perhaps,  is  to  haul  the  flags  down 
;ust  before  sending  down  the  top-gallant  yards. 


424.— KEEPING  THE  COPPER  CLEAN. 

The  good  or  bad  condition  of  the  copper  on  a  ship's  bottom 
above  the  water  line,  has  a  wonderful  effect  upon  her  appearance. 
If  daubed  over  with  blacking,  or  otherwise  neglected,  when  pos- 
sible to  attend  to  it,  a  slovenly  appearance  is  communicated  to 
the  outside  look  which  a  ship  of  war  ought  to  be  exempt  frorr . 

One  way  of  managing  is  to  scrub  off  all  spots,  and  rub  it  oc- 
casionally with  an  oily  cloth,  when  there  is  leisure  ;  and  if  this 
is  constantly  attended  to,  perhaps  it  is  the  best  and  simplest  plan, 
although  I  have  heard  yachts  find  river  mud  better. 
18 


232  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Another  way  is  to  paint  it  with  red  ochre  and  oil,  mixed  to  tht 
color  of  new  copper.  When  well  and  effectually  done,  this  will 
preserve  a  good  appearance  for  a  long  time ;  but  the  finest  and 
calmest  weather  must  he  taken  advantage  of  to  lay  it  on,  as  the 
least  ripple  will  wash  all  off  in  its  way  when  wet. 

To  clean  the  copper  under  the  water  line,  seize  on  to  a  handy 
spar  of  sufficient  length,  half-a-dozen  strong,  coarse  deck  clamps, 
and  apply  them  against  the  ship's  bottom  from  a  stage,  if  it  can 
DC  got ;  if  not,  from  the  largest  boat,  previously  keeling  the  ship, 
by  running  the  guns  in  on  one  side,  and  out  on  the  other.  The 
copper  of  a  small  vessel  may  be  completely  cleaned  in  this  way. 

If  the  copper  on  the  trysail  mast,  and  fore  and  main-masts  of 
brigs  and  schooners  be  attended  to  and  kept  clean,  it  tends  very 
much  to  the  appearance  of  the  vessel.  The  most  common  obsta- 
cle to  this  is  grease,  which  generates  verdigris  excessively,  but 
may  be  easily  prevented  by  attention. 


425.— FURLING  FROM  A  BOWLINE. 

The  stress  of  the  work  here  being  on  the  bunt-lines  and  cle\v 
ropes,  but  few  hands  are  required  on  the  topsail  clew-lines. 


WORDS  OF  COMMAND. 

Call— "All  hands  furl  sails." 

Man  the  bunt-lines  and  clew-lines  (including  the  clew-ropers 
and  head  downhauls). 

"Aloft,  top-men  ;  " — stand  by  to  furl  sails. 

"  Aloft,  lower  yard-men  ;  " — haul  taut — shorten  sail — lay-out. 

Furl-away,  gather  up,  and  pass  the  gaskets  ; — lay  in  off  the 
yards ; — stand  by  the  booms.  Down  booms — rig  them  out  to  the 
mark  ; — square  the  heels.  Square  yards,  stopping  up  gear  at 
the  same  time.  When  the  yards  are  squared  by  the  braces,  the 
boatswain  ought  to  hurry  ahead,  to  square  them  by  the  lifts. 
At  the  same  time  haul  taut  the  bow-lines,  jib  and  staysail-hal- 
liards, and  see  all  the  clew-lines  close  up. 

When  the  yards  are  squared  by  the  lifts,  haul  taut  topsail  and 
top-gallant  sheets,  and  reef-tackles,  as  well  as  all  other  slack 
ropes,  (heels  of  the  studding-sail  square,  &c.  &c.) 

Note. — The  topsail  and  top-gallant  sheets  and  reef-tackles 
ought  not  previously  to  be  hauled  taut,  because  they  then  inter 
fere  with  squaring  the  yards  by  the  lifts. 

Remarks. — The  tacks  and  sheets  are  generally  kept  unrove 
in  harbor,  and  the  courses  hauled  up  by  the  clew-ropes,  one  bunt- 


OR   YOUJNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  233 

line  and  leech-line  of  a  side  ;  the  topsails  by  the  bunt-lines  only, 
led  through  a  lizard  at  the  clews,  or  clew  jiggers.  The  hauling 
down  of  the  headsails  is  much  facilitated  by  having  the  halliards 
racked  and  overhauled  at  the  mast-head,  and  a  hand  there  ready 
to  cut  the  racking,  when  the  word  is  given  to  shorten  sail. 


426.— HIGH  AND  LOW  BUNTS. 

Low,  or  rolling  bunts,  require  bunt-gaskets,  and  are  tedious  in 
stowing  and  securing  snug — high,  or  French  bunts,  require  no 
gaskets,  but  secure  to  the  topsail-tye  by  a  becket  and  stopped. 
Being  larger,  and  more  open  abaft,  the  slack  sail  is  more  easily 
stowed  in  them  than  in  low  bunts ;  neither  is  any  time  or  labor 
lost  about  bunt-gaskets,  a  circumstance  not  to  be  overlooked,  in 
competing  with  other  vessels. 

The  look  is  a  matter  of  taste ;  in  general,  however,  topsail  • 
yards  are  thought  neatest,  with  first  or  second-reefed  earings 
hauled  partly  out,  but  neither  reef-points  tied,  nor  bun-t-gaskets 
on ;  the  bunt  described  is  a  French  bunt,  being  secured  to  the 
tye  by  a  midship-becket  in  the  first  reef  band,  and  the  sail  furleJ 
in  the  skin  of  the  first  reef  and  back-cloths. 

Note. — The  proper  place  for  the  furling-glutt,  is  two-thirds  of 
the  depth  of  first  reef. 


427.— TO  CLEAR  MAST-HEADS. 

Clear  mast-heads  form  a  distinguishing  mark  of  a  ship-of-war. 
To  make  them  so,  the  eyes  of  the  rigging  ought  to  be  carefully 
placed,  boused  down  a-midships  by  the  mast,  and  beat  down  at 
the  mast-head  with  a  commander,  and  the  shrouds  set  up  in 
their  places  with  care.  The  eyes  of  the  stays,  and  the  slings  of 
the  lower  yards,  ought  also  to  be  sent  down  over  all,  and  nothing 
more  should  be  on  the  lower  mast-heads,  observable  to  the  eye. 

Over  topmast-heads  the  ginn-blocks  ought  to  go  first,  with  a 
span  lashing  to  the  pendants,  so  as  to  take  them  close  up  to  the 
trestle-trees;  rigging  and  stays,  same  as  lower  mast-heads — 
standing  parts  of  ties,  through  a  score  in  the  heel  of  topgallant- 
mast,  inside  of  the  trestle-trees,  and  taken  abaft  the  mast-head 
and  lashed  together  close  down  on  top  of  the  stays.  It  would  be 
well  to  put  a  quarter-seizing  on  each  side,  around  both  stay  and 
tye.  This  does  away  with  the  not  uncommon,  but  slovenly 
practice,  of  hitching  the  standing  part  of  the  topsail-tye  over  the 


234  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

rigging,  and  expending  the  end,  by  heaping  it  up  with  five  01 
BIX  turns  half-way  to  the  cap. 

Opinions  are  divided  as  to  whether  mast-heada  painted  white, 
or  black,  look  the  best.  This  is  a  matter  of  taste ;  but  it  is  a 
matter  of  certainty,  that  black  shades  and  conceals,  while  white 
tends  to  display,  what  a  seaman  is  proud  of,  the  neatness  and 
good  order  of  his  rigging,  which  should  not  be  concealed  by  a 
white  canvass  mast-coat. 

The  neatest  mast-heads  I  ever  saw  were  painted  white,  with  the 
upper  half  of  the  top-rims  and  lower-half  of  the  caps  of  the  same 
color;  the  lower  half  of  the  top  rims,  and  the  upper  half  of  the 
caps,  being  black;  thus  the  large  space  of  white  was  terminated 
and  relieved  above  and  below,  by  a  neat,  small,  but  distinct  line 
of  black.  The  topmast  cross-trees,  topmast-heads,  and  lower 
halves  of  topmast-caps  were  also  white ;  upper  half  of  caps  black. 
Topmasts  scraped  close  up  to  the  cross-trees,  the  eyes  of  the  top- 
gallant and  royal  rigging  covered  with  canvass,  in  place  of  ser- 
vice, and  painted  black — no  paint  above  topmast-head  caps,  nor 
outside  of  the  bowsprit-cap.  With  clear  mast-heads,  ought  to  be 
combined  neat  tops,  wherein  the  ropes  are  flemished,  and  kept 
low  and  snug. 


428.— PLACING  BELAYING-CLEATS  IN   TOPS. 

If  the  belaying-cleats  for  studding-sail  tacks  and  halliards,  top- 
gallant and  royal  lifts,  and  royal  sheets,  are  placed  on  the  cross- 
pieces,  or  carlines  of  tops,  and  not  on  the  shrouds  or  mast-heads, 
the  rigging  there  will  look  much  neater. 


429.— MAKING  SWABS. 

Old  rope,  called  junk,  is  unlaid  into  yarns.  Make  a  grommet 
with  a  good  strand ;  then  take  some  of  the  yarns  of  the  junk, 
take  the  twist  or  lay  well  out,  and  middle  them  in  the  grommet, 
and  continue  to  fill  up  (to  the  size  required),  close  to  the  grom- 
met ;  clap  on  a  good  seizing  of  spun-yarn,  and  then,  if  wished, 
snake  it ;  sometimes  the  handle,  or  grommet,  is  made  by  splicing 
both  ends  together,  the  splice  laying  in  the  head  of  the  swab. 
In  making  the  grommet,  the  ends  of  the  strands  should  not  be 
cut  off,  but  seized-in  with  the  rest  of  the  swab. 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  235 

43O.— STOWAGE   OF  SWABS. 

Swabs  in  the  head  are  an  eye-sore ;  attention  should  be  direct 
ed  to  the  contrivance  of  some  other  stow-hole  for  them,  to  which 
they  should  be  rigorously  confined,  except  when  in  use. 


431.— JUNK. 

Junk  is  supplied  for  the  purpose  of  working  up  into  various 
uses — such  as  into  swabs,  spun-yarn,  knittle-stuff,  lacings,  seiz- 
ings, earings,  gaskets,  &c.,  &c., — all  of  which  the  supply  in 
proper  kind  is  generally  inadequate.  Good  junk  is  got  out  of 
such  materials  as  condemned  cables — they  having  been  necessa- 
rily made  of  the  best  stuff,  and  condemned  before  being  much 
injured.  Old  messengers,  old  rigging,  &c.,  make  bad  junk,  not 
being  condemned  generally  until  much  worn. 

Of  the  worst  junk  swabs  and  spun-yam  should  be  made ;  of 
the  best,  knittle  and  seizing-stuff,  lacings,  earings,  &c.  The  seiz- 
ing-stuff is  intended  for  blocks,  ratlines,  &c. ;  the  knittle  stuff  for 
making  mats,  as  well  as  lacings  and  earings,  for  studding-sails, 
boats'  sails,  &c.,  and  the  spun-yarn  for  fitting  and  refitting.  A  sur- 
plus stock  of  all  these  ought  constantly  to  be  at  hand,  in  siore, 
for  the  purpose  of  refitting  or  replacing  anything  that  may  hap- 
pen to  be  carried  away,  without  loss  of  time.  In  order  to  effect 
this,  the  watch  on  deck,  or  part  of  them,  ought  to  be  constantly 
at  work  about  the  junk,  when  circumstances  permit,  drawing, 
knotting,  and  balling  of  yarns,  and  assisting  the  ropemaker  in 
laving  up  the  above  mentioned  small  stuff,  either  till  the  junk  is 
exhausted,  or  till  there  is  an  ample  stock  on  hand. 

Large  junk,  such  as  lengths  of  cables,  should  be  unlaid  before 
being  put  below,  that  it  may  admit  of  being  snugly  stowed 


432.— MAKING  MATS,  AND   CHAFING  GEAR. 

The  oreadth  of  mats  for  lanyards  of  rigging,  is  determined  by 
the  size  of  the  dead-eye,  which  the  mat  ought  nearly  to  cover  ; 
the  length  by  the  distance  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  dead-eye. 
For  lacing,  small  beckets  should  be  worked  in  each  corner  and 
side.  The  mats  on  the  foremost  swifters  of  the  lower  rigging 
and  backstays,  should  be  longer  than  the  others,  on  account  of 
the  foot  and  clew  of  the  courses,  when  reefed  and  hauled  aft, 
grinding  against  them  high  up  ;  or  shifting  mats  for  that  especial 


236  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR  , 

purpose  should  be  kept,  to  put  on  at  sea  and  take  off  in  harbor. 
Thrum-mats  are  required  for  the  paunch  of  lower  topsail  and 
topgallant  yards,  to  prevent  chafing.  Those  that  follow  are  only 
required  at  sea ;  so  that  for  neatness  and  economy,  they  may  al- 
ways be  taken  oil  when  going  into  harbor. 

To  take  the  chafe  off  the  rigging,  when  the  lower  yards  are 
braced  up,  a  large  square  hanging  mat  is  required,  thrummed  on 
each  side  of  the  futtock-shrouds.  This  has  a  lanyard  in  each 
corner,  and  is  clapped  on  thereby,  with  the  upper  half  on  the 
foremost  futtock-shrouds,  the  lower  half  on  the  foremost  swifters ; 
the  middle  part  being  in  a  line  with  the  catharpens. 

On  each  side  of  the  bunts  of  the  courses,  before  all,  a  thrum- 
mat  is  requisite,  to  prevent  the  head  of  the  sail  chafing  against 
the  stay  where  they  come  in  contact,  when  the  yards  are  braced 
up.  A  breeches-mat  is  also  required  on  the  stay  itself,  for  the 
same  purpose.  Small,  square,  neat  mats,  in  the  way  of  leech-lines, 
on  each  side,  are  also  necessary,  to  prevent  chafing. 

To  prevent  the  topsail  yards,  when  braced  up,  from  chafing 
the  foremost  shrouds  of  the  topmast  rigging,  a  quarter  mat  abaf . 
the  yards  on  each  side,  is  required. 

A  thrum-mat  is  necessary  on  the  horn  of  each  foremast  crose- 
tree,  to  prevent  their  wearing  holes  in  the  topgallant  sails. 

For  the  backstays,  in  the  wake  of  the  lower  yards,  when  braced 
up,  mats  or  platting,  or  some  such  substitute,  is  necessary  as  a 
protection.  Merchant  vessels  use  Scotsmen  [slips  of  wood  so 
called] ;  but  for  ships  of  war,  I  think  leather,  snugly  stitched  an  3 
kept  on  in  harbor,  as  well  as  at  sea,  is  the  best. 

In  a  brig,  the  boom-mainsail  will  sometimes  have  a  hole  fretted 
in  it,  by  chafing  against  the  quarter  boat's  stanchions,  or  the  be- 
laying  cleats  there  ;  these  ought  therefore  to  be  protected  by  mats. 


433.— GASKETS. 

There  is  a  great  risk  of  gaskets  marking  and  spoiling  the  looks 
of  the  sails,  if  not  thoroughly  dried  before  being  used. 

The  number  of  sea-gaskets  must  depend  upon  the  size  of  the 
ship  ;  the  smallest,  however,  such  as  a  schooner  01  brig,  requiring 
four  for  each  side  of  lower  yards,  and  the  same  for  topsail  yards. 
For  topgallant  and  royal  yards,  half  the  number  is  enough  ;  for 
boom  mainsail,  six ;  for  jib  and  flying-jib,  five  each. 

Harbor-gaskets  answer  uest  with  one  end  tapered  and  the 
other  woiked  with  an  eye.  By  reeving  and  unreeving  the  taper- 
ed end  through  the  eye,  and  round  the  jackstay,  they  are  then 
easily  put  on  or  taken  off.  Their  length  ought  to  be  sufficient 
for  a  round  turn  round  the  sail  and  vard,  with  enough  of  end  tr 


OR    YOQNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  237 

lack  in  and  secure  between  the  sail  and  round  turn  abaft,  or 
rather,  on  upper  quarter  abaft.  Their  breadth  is  a  matter  of 
fancy,  but  broad  ones  are  generally  preferred.  They  should  be 
carefully  placed  upon  the  yards,  as  nearly  as  possible,  at  equal 
distances. 

Note. — If  any  long  gaskets   are  used,  half  the   number   is 
sufficient. 


434.— SCRAPING  AND  GREASING  MASTS. 

When  the  blacking  of  the  rigging  is  dry,  the  masts  ought  to 
be  scraped  and  cleaned,  then  greased.  For  the  men  to  stand 
upon  when  scraping  the  lower  masts,  rig  triangles  of  capstan 
bars,  with  whips  to  the  mast-heads  ;  for  hoisting  and  lowering, 
with  the  topmasts,  handspikes  answer  instead  of  capstan  bars, 
and  the  royal  and  topgallant  masts  may  be  managed  from  a  bow- 
line in  the  end  of  a  girt-line,  or  a  span  from  shroud  to  shroud. 

To  prevent  spotting  the  deck,  the  deck-cloths  ought  to  be  spread, 
and  some  hands  kept  constantly  sweeping  up  the  shavings. 

The  topgallant  and  royal  yard-arms  should  not  be  neglected- 
The  studding-sail  booms,  except  when  new,  ought  to  have  the 
least  possible  shaving  taken  off  them  by  a  carpenter,  and  then 
varnished.  This  does  not  injure  them  more  than  scraping,  and 
keeps  them  infinitely  smoother. 

Before  laying  on  the  grease,  the  captains  of  the  tops,  &c., 
should  report  that  everything  is  scraped  and  ready,  and  the 
boatswain  should  examine. 

Note. — It  is  customary  in  some  ships  first  to  scrape  masts, 
'hen  tar  down  the  rigging,  and  lastly  paint;  but  there  is  objec- 
tions to  this,  as  the  men  are  liable  to  daub  the  masts  when  tar- 
jing  down,  and  they  would  have  to  be  done  over  again. 

Studding-sail  booms  should  never  be  greased,  as  they  are  liable 
to  daub  the  sail. 


435.— MANNING  YARDS. 

If  previously  aware  that  the  yards  are  to  be  manned  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  clap  on  life-lines  instantly  ;  the  topgallant  and 
royal  yards  are  crossed  in  the  morning,  the  hands  laying  out  and 
in  together  ;  then  square  yards. 


THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Fewer  men  being  required  for  manning  yards  than  furling 
sails,  those  required  for  the  former  may  be  easily  sized  and  se- 
lected from  among  the  latter,  keeping  them  always  on  their  re- 
spective yards — the  tallest  outside. 

The  yard-arm  men  extend  their  outside  arms  straight,  holding 
on  by  the  studding-sail  halliards,  whilst  they  clap  their  inner  arms 
over  the  life-lines,  holding  it  fast  under  the  arm-pit ;  the  next 
man  in  the  same  way  extends  his  outer  arm,  and  grapples  the 
shoulder  of  the  yard-arm  man  ;  then  passes  his  inner  arm  over 
the  life-line,  clasping  it  under  his  arm-pit,  and  so  on  to  the  bunt. 

The  appearance  of  the  boat,  at  whatever  distance  it  may  be, 
is  the  customary  signal  for  manning  yards ;  yet  it  would  be  at 
times  a  preferable  rule  to  endeavor  to  judge  of  the  distance,  and 
act  so  that  the  men  may  not  be  more  than  ten  minutes  or  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  aloft. 

The  men  on  the  yards  ought  to  face  the  boat ;  that  is,  when 
the  boat  is  abaft  the  beam,  they  ought  to  face  aft ;  when  before 
the  beam,  forward  :  but  in  a  ship,  when  the  commodore*  ascend') 
the  side,  the  hand  on  the  cross-jack  and  mizen- topsail  yards 
ought  to  face  forward — all  others  as  before,  aft. 


436.— MAN  ROPES— (SIDE). 

If  side  or  man-ropes  be  covered  with  canvass  or  baize,  the 
stitches  should  be  taken  through  the  strands  of  the  rope,  to  pre- 
vent the  covering  getting  out  of  its  place,  and  puckering ;  and 
to  take  the  chafe  or  nip  in  the  wake  of  the  eye-bolt,  through 
which  they  reeve,  a  small  bit  oi  leather  should  be  neatly  stitch- 
ed on. 

The  handsomest  and  most  durable  man-ropes  are  those  en- 
tirely pointed  over  with  neat,  small  line.  The  job  is  a  tedious 
one,  but  worth  the  expense  and  trouble. 


437.-— SPARE  DEAD-EYES. 

A  good  plan  for  spare  dead-eyes  of  rigging  is  to  have  them  in 
two  pieces,  and  with  small  bolts  fixing  them  together,  so  that  in 
the  event  of  carrying  one  away,  it  can  be  easily  replaced,  with- 
out having  to  take  chain,  plate  and  all  to  a  smiths'  shop. 


*  Or  the  personage  whom  it  is  intended  to  honor. 


OR  YOUJNtt  SAlLORb-  ASSISTANT.  239 


438.— HIDE  ROPE. 

Where  there  is  much  and  continued  friction,  or  a  short  nip, 
hide  rope  is  found  to  have  great  advantage  over  hemp ;  some 
say  thirty  per  cent.  Thus  it  is  good  for  wheel-ropes,  whip  for 
hatchway,  topsail-ties,  trusses,  topgallant  and  royal  sheets  and 
yard  ropes,  parrels,  jib-pendants,  lacings,  reef-pendants  and  lash 
ing,  studding-sail  tacks  and  halliards. 

For  preservation  above  deck,  hide  rope  should  have  a  coating 
of  two  parts  of  grease  and  one  of  tar ;  below  deck,  a  coat  of 
iieats'  foot  oil.  When  not  wanted,  such  as  wheel-ropes  in  har- 
bor, it  should  be  kept  under  cover. 

Note. — Hide  rope  is  now  allowed  by  regulation  for  tailing  all 
sheets,  also  for  ties,  truss,  pendants,  &c.,  (fee.  (See  rigging  table.) 


439.— HAWSE-HOLE  WINDSAIL. 

A  windsail  to  carry  the  great  draught  of  the  hawse-holes  down 
into  the  holds,  &c.,  is  a  very  useful  thing,  though  not  common. 


440.— FIGHTING  LADDERS. 

Some  ships  have  fighting  ladders  of  rope  always  set  up,  ready, 
and  the  wooden  ones  for  common  use  placed  against  them. 

Note. — Iron  Jacob's-ladders  fitted  amidships  in  hatchways  are 
very  useful  in  the  morning  when  washing  decks,  or  at  quarter^ 
when  the  wooden  ladders  are  unshipped. 


441.— HAWSE  BUCKLERS. 

Bucklers  are  of  two  sorts  ;  half-bucklers,  shipped  when  the 
cables  are  bent,  and  blind-bucklers  when  the/  are  unbent.  The 
object  of  the  first  is  to  prevent  shipping  water  through  the  hawse- 
holes,  while  the  cables  are  bent,  and  are  put  on,  after  filling 
with  shakings  the  hawse-hole  through  which  the  cable  runs  • 
they  are  secured  by  upright,  iron  bars,  slipping  on  and  off  upor 
grooves  above  and  below. 


240  T]TE  KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 

Blind-buckleis  are  put  on  after  a  plug  (called  hawse-plug,  of 
the  size  of  the  hawse-hole)  has  been  thrust  in.  They  are  secured 
the  same  way  as  the  half-bucklers. 

When  the  cables  are  ordered  to  be  clear  for  running,  the  half- 
bucklers  should  be  unshipped. 

Note. — Half-bucklers  are  made  with  a  score  to  fit  the  cable. 


442.— MAKING  FAST  A  WARP  TO  A  VESSEL. 

The  best  place  for  making  a  warp  fast  to,  is  the  bitts,  after  pass- 
ing through  the  spare  hawse-hole  :  there  it  will  not  interfere  with 
the  side  or  paint  work ;  is  perfectly  clear,  quite  secure,  and  ready 
to  let  go  in  an  instant.  If  made  fast  to  the  cables,  which  is  next 
best,  it  is  more  difficult  to  let  go. 


443.— FITTING  QUARTER  BOATS'  GRIPES, 

Boats'  gripes  are  made  with  spun-yarn  or  small  rope,  as  a 
s  ,vord-mat :  one  end  is  secured  round  the  davit-head,  the  other, 
viien  the  boat  is  up,  passed  under  her  bottom,  and  secured  in 
the  chains  with  a  lashing. 


444.— FITTING  GIGS'  SLINGS. 

Gigs'  slings  are  made  as  sword  mats.  When  sufficient  is  made 
t  D  take  the  boat's  bottom  and  clear  the  gunwales,  the  spun-yarn, 
or  rope  between  each  part,  is  fitted  as  a  stopper  or  selvagee,  par- 
celed and  served  over,  and  a  thimble  seized  in  the  bight,  which 
the  tackles  hook  to.  The  stretches,  made  of  wood,  are  put  be- 
tween both  parts  of  the  slings,  long  enough  to  keep  them  two  or 
three  inches  off  the  gunwale. 

For  the  span,  measure  the  length  from  the  after  ring-bolts  to- 
the  slings ;  when  in  their  place,  leave  six  inches  for  splicing,  and 
cut  the  rope  ;  measure  from  the  after-slings  to  the  fore  ones, 
leaving  about  six  inches  and  cut ;  measure  from  the  fore-slings 
to  the  ring-bolt  in  the  stern  and  cut ;  splice  a  hook  and  thimble 
in  the  ends,  the  other  ends  splice  together,  forming  two  cut  splices, 
large  enough  to  go  over  the  thimbles  in  the  slings,  and  seize 
them  in  their  place. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 

Note. — Some  prefer  artificial  eyes  worked  in  trie  ends  of  the 
slings,  to  go  over  the  end  of  the  stretcher  ;  this  is  not  so  safe 


445.— SCRUBBING  A  BOAT'S  BOTTOM,  ON  LEAVING 

HARBOR. 

It  frequently  happens  in  preparing  for  sea,  a  large  boat's  Dot- 
torn,  such  as  a  launch,  or  any  other  boom  boat,  requires  cleaning, 
and  there  happens  to  be  no  place  at  hand  to  haul  her  up  on 
shore,  in  preference  to  hoisting  her  up  and  doing  it  aboard,  and 
causing  a  great  muss  on  deck ;  hoist  her  out  of  the  water  by 
the  cat,  and  another  tackle  to  the  bowsprit,  and  scrub  her  bottom 
from  another  boat  (or  catamaran). 


446.— CARRYING  LIGHT  BOATS   ON  LAND. 

The  best  way  to  cary  a  boat,  is  to  upset  her,  and  let  the  men, 
with  their  jackets  on  their  shoulders,  (or  some  such  protection 
against  the  sharp  pressure  of  the  gunwale,)  stand  under  and 
take  the  gunwales  on  each  side  on  their  shoulders ;  some  Lands 
may  also  be  advantageously  placed  in  amidships  undei  the 
thwarts, 


THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

447.— MISCELLANEOUS  NOTES   ON  WORKING 
BOATS. 


If  a  boat  be  crank,  or  if  it  be  wished  in  working  to  windward 
to  accelerate  speed,  all  hands  should  sit  down  in  the  bottom  of 
the  boat.  If  in  haste,  working  to  windward,  pull  the  weather  oars. 

A  boat  with  only  one  sail,  such  as  a  lug,  should  never  attempt 
beating  to  windward,  except  when  necessary  to  give  the  crew  a 
spell. 

Let  no  one  ever  sit  on  the  gunwale,  but  accustom  the  crew  to 
sit  in  their  places,  and  to  make  and  shorten  sail  without  stirring 
from  their  seats.  Besides  the  due  execution  of  this  mauoeuvre, 
the  safety  of  the  boat  is  much  implicated  in  the  degree  of  atten- 
tion paid  to  this  rule. 

In  taking  in  a  lug  sail,  lower  the  halliards  and  haul  down  on 
the  weather-leach. 

Note. — Keep  boats  out  of  the  water  as  much  as  possible 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


243 


448.— DUTIES   OF  BOATS'   CREWS. 


A    SHIP    OF    WAR'S    LAUNCH. 

Nothing  sooner  indicates  the  order  and  discipline  ol  a  vessel 
af  war,  than  the  clean  state  and  efficient  condition  of  the  boats, 
together  with  the  personal  appearance  of  their  crews.  In  this  par- 
ticular, sufficient  care  is  not  always  observed  in  the  service ;  in 
well  regulated  ships,  the  coxswains  are  compelled  to  report  to 
the  senior  lieutenant  the  state  of  their  respective  boats,  and  in 
the  morning  to  ascertain  from  the  officer  of  the  boat,  the  man- 
ner he  may  require  the  crews  to  be  dressed  for  the  day  &c,;  &c. 


449.— BOATS  GOING  ON  DISTANT   SEKVICE. 

Memoranda  of  articles  required  for  distant  service — viz. :  spy- 
glass, compass,  pencil  and  paper,  chart,  watch,  lead  and  line, 
tinder-box,  grapnel  and  rope,  stern-fast,  hammer,  nails,  spike  for 
guns,  spare  rope,  (size  of  boat's  gear,)  spare  tiller,  spare  oars,  blue- 
lights,  lanterns  and  candles,  casks  or  kegs  for  water,  arm-chest, 
flints,  turn-screw,  towing-nets,  pea-coats,  muffling  for  oars,  fish- 


244 


THE   KEDGE-ANCHOK; 


ing-lines,  iron  pot,  fuel,  each  man  a  knife,  an  axe,  a  maul,  a  crow 
bar,  needles,  twine,  colors,  rations  for  the  boat's  crew  at  discretion. 


45O.— BOATS  UNDER  SAIL. 


A    SHIP    OF    WAR'S    CUTTER. 

Care  should  be  taken  that  the  halliards  be  coiled  ap  clear  for 
running,  that  the  sheets  be  not  belayed,  and  that  the  crew,  in 
shortening  sail  to  a  squall,  do  not  shift  their  seats,  or,  as  is  too 
common  a  custom,  stand  upon  the  thwarts  to  gather  in  the  shak- 
ing sail ;  in  lowering  a  lug,  or  lateen  sail,  haul  down  alone  on 
the  luff,  (the  fore-leech ;)  the  after  one  better  be  left  untouched. 

Coxswains  should  also  be  cautioned  of  the  danger  of  letting 
go  the  helm.  This  is  often  inadvertently  done  wrong — some- 
times to  secure  the  heel  of  the  bumkin,  or  to  get  a  pull  of  the 
main  or  mizen-sheet.  By  this  thoughtless  practice,  boats  are 
liable  to  fly  up  in  the  wind,  the  sails  to  be  taken  aback,  be  dim- 
cult  to  lower,  and  eventually  to  cant  over  and  capsize  to  wind- 
ward. 


451.— GIVING  A  ROPE   TO   A  BOAT. 

When  a  boat  from  a  lee-tide,  or  running-sea,  requires  from  the 
ship  the  aid  of  a  rope,  care'  must  be  taken  that  the  tow-line  be 
passed  as  far  forward  as  possible.  The  position  of  the  fore-chan- 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  245 

nels  is  too  far  aft,  and  causes  too  short  a  scope.  The  tow-line 
should  be  passed  from  the  cat-head,  with  a  slip-rope  to  the  crown 
of  the  spare  or  sheet-anchor,  which,  if  slacked  when  the  bowman 
secures  the  tow-line,  the  boat  will  ride  with  a  good  scope,  and 
with  comparative  ease. 

Caution. — The  tow-line  should  never  be  made  fast  to  the  ring 
in  the  bow  of  the  boat ;  it  should  be  passed  through  the  ring  by 
way  of  a  fair-leader,  and  eventually  secured  to  the  bottom  of  the 
boat  or  thwart. 

Mooring  boats. — Boats  are  best  moored  at  the  guess-swarp- 
boom.  In  this  position  they  ride  under  the  eye  of  the  officer  of 
the  deck,  and  are  less  liable  to  be  damaged  than  when  secured 
alongside,  or  moored  astern. 

Boat-keepers,  unless  especially  called  to  assist  in  the  execution 
of  urgent  or  heavy  service,  should  never  be  permitted  to  leave 
their  boats. 


452.— CROSSING  A  BAR   WITH   SURF,  IN  BOATS 

As  a  boat  will  not  rise  over  surf  as  over  an  unbroken  wave, 
but  on  the  contrary,  the  surf  boils  over  and  into  the  boat,  the 
less  surface  there  is  presented,  and  the  higher  it  is  out  of  the 
water,  the  better.  For  this  reason  a  boat  ought  to  be  kept  stem 
on,  or  right  before  it,  when  the  heaviest  waves  approach,  waiting 
till  they  are  past,  to  pursue  her  way  edgeways  across  the  bar 

Stem  on  is  the  safest,  the  smallest  surface  and  the  strongest 
and  highest  part  of  the  boat  being  in  that  way  presented  to  the 
surf,  while  the  rudder  and  oars  possess  sufficient  power  to  main- 
tain the  position  assumed.  Right  before  it  has  the  disadvantage 
of  lowness  of  stern,  which  makes  pooping  more  likely  than  tak- 
ing water  over  the  bows — protracted  exposure  to  the  wave,  (for 
you  must  go  along  with  it,)  and  the  tendency  to  gripe  and 
broach-to,  which  from  the  rudder  being  lifted  and  left  out  of  the 
water,  and  rendered  useless  as  soon  as  the  broken  wave  passes  it, 
is  often  irresistible  and  fatal,  and  can  only  be  counteracted  by 
the  skill  and  steadiness  of  the  crew,  in  steering  the  boat  by  their 
oars  until  the  rudder  ccmes  again  into  play.  If  a  boat  broaches- 
to  in  these  circumstances,  she  will  most  likely  fill,  and  instantly 
upset,  in  which  case,  I  believe  the  best  plan  is  to  cling  to  the 
boat  (01  some  of  her  gear),  and  endeavor  to  right  her  again,  if 
oossible. 

19 


246  TI1<£  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

453.— HAULING  UP  BOATS. 

A  gig's  crew  may  haul  up  their  boat,  but  for  all  other  boats,  it 
requires  at  least  double  the  number  of  their  crews,  assisted  oy 
rollers  and  tackles. 

A  line-of-battle-ship's  launch  may  be  hauled  up  by  five-and- 
forty  hands,  in  the  following  manner :  run  her  bow  on  to  the 
beach,  and  let  a  few  hands  on  each  quarter  keep  her  in  that 
position,  by  setting  their  oars  against  the  ground ;  next  sweep 
her  with  a  hawser,  and  guy  it  up  at  the  stern  to  a  proper  height 
by  several  turns  of  the  painter;  to  this  hawser  hook  on  the 
double  block  of  a  long  tackle,  the  other  end,  or  single  block  being 
overhauled  to  a  proper  length,  and  made  fast  as  most  convenient. 

Pass  the  bight  of  another  hawser  round  the  stern  post,  and 
having  guyed  it  up  on  each  side  to  the  main  thwart,  there  hook 
on,  on  each  side,  a  quarter  tackle  also,  overhauled  to  a  proper 
length,  and  hooked  on  at  the  other  end,  as  most  convenient ; 
man  these  with  the  remaining  hands  :  then  having  placed  rollers 
in  succession  to  take  the  boat's  fore-foot  and  keel,  proceed  to  haul 
away.  When  up,  the  loose  thwarts  set  against  the  ground  and 
wash  streak  will  keep  her  upright.  Smaller  boats  do  not  require 
quarter  tackles  ;  a  few  hands  on  the  quarters  to  keep  them  up- 
right, answer  the  purpose.  Heavy  boats  especially  should  not  be 
turned  bottom  up,  it  strains  them  so  much.  The  loose  thwarts 
might  be  placed  for  the  rollers  to  roll  on,  if  the  ground  is  soft. 


454.— LOWERING  BOATS. 

On  lowering  boats  from  the  quarter  or  stern,  care  must  be 
taken  that  the  moment  the  boat  touches  the  water,  the  after 
tackles  be  quickly  unhooked  from  the  slings  or  ring  bolts.  If  in 
a  tide's  way  the  precaution  be  not  observed,  the  probability  is, 
the  boat  will  immediately  fill,  and  the  men  in  the  boat  be  exposed 
to  imminent  peril. 


455.— TURNING  UP  THE  HANDS. 

In  calling  up  the  hands,  or  calling  the  crew  to  the  performance 
of  their  duties,  the  boatswain  too  often  indulges  in  piercing  pipes, 
and  drawling  tones  of  superfluous  length.  Boatswains  have  a 
singular  propensity  to  demonstrate  the  soundness  of  their  lungs, 
by  an  endless  protraction  of  a  note  on  their  piercing  pipes.  They 
should  not  be  so  fond  of  supplying  the  place  of  sea  birds.  This 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  247 

is  not  the  worst  feature  in  their  taste ;  for  when  at  last  they 
utter  the  required  summons,  they  give  it  forth  in  tones  so  drawl- 
ing, that  the  first  words  are  often  forgotten  before  the  last  are  out 

Note. — A-l  I  h-a-n-d-s   a-b-o-u-t  -  s-h-i-p. — This   lengthy  sum 
mons,  and  a  longer-winded  whistle,  and  each  pipe  and  phrase 
three  times  repeated  by  the  boatswain  and  his  mates,  the  ship 
may  be  ashore  before  the  leader  of  the  band  is  convinced  how 
dearly  he  has  paid  for  his  whistle. 


456.— INSPECTION  OF   RIGGING— MORNING  AND 
EVENING. 

In  the  morning  the  boatswain  will  be  required  to  inspect  as 
early  as  possible  the  state  and  condition  of  the  standing  and  run- 
ning rigging,  and  to  report  the  result  of  his  examination  to  the 
officer  of  the  morning  watch.  He  should  be  particularly  careful 
to  see  that  the  ratlines  of  the  rigging  are  properly  secure ;  that 
the  topsail  sheet  service  is  not  chafed,  and  that  all  the  quarter 
and  paunch  mats  are  properly  placed. 

Evening-. — The  boatswain  should  inspect  at  evening  quarters 
all  the  rigging,  stoppers  and  necessary  "gear  required  upon  the 
occasion  of  clearing  for  action ;  so  that  in  the  event  of  being 
surprised  by  an  enemy  at  night,  such  gear  may  be  placed  at  hand 
for  immediate  use.  He  should  also  see  that  the  toggles  fitted  to 
the  lower  and  topsail  braces,  be  securely  seized  to  their  respective 
parts. 


45 7. —INSPECTION  OF  STOWED  ANCHORS— (AT  SEA) 

In  boisterous  weather,  and  particularly  if  the  ship  be  laboring 
or  lurching  heavily,  the  boatswain  should  inspect  the  several 
anchors,  and  see  that  they  are  securely  stowed.  In  small  vessels, 
where  anchors,  in  a  heavy  sea,  are  constantly  buried  under  water, 
it  is  necessary  to  take  the  precaution  of  passing  preventer  stocks 
and  shank  lashings.  The  quarter  boats  should  also  be  inspected, 
and  the  boatswain  should  report  to  the  officer  of  the  watch  the 
result  of  such  inspection. 


248  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


458.— INSPECTION  OF  BOATS— (AT  SEA). 

Every  evening  after  sunset,  the  boatswain  will  be  required  to 
inspect  the  boats  on  the  booms,  to  see  that  they  be  perfectly  clear, 
and  that  their  sling-spans  be  severally  hooked  for  hoisting  out. 
In  tropical  climates  it  is  strongly  recommended  to  uncover  the 
boats  after  the  sun  has  set,  in  order  that  they  may  benefit  by  the 
dew  and  air.  Each  cover  should  be  made  up  and  placed  in  the 
bow  of  the  boat. 


459.— GAMMONING  THE  BOWSPRIT 

The  better  way  to  gammon  the  bowsprit  in  a  large  ship,  is  to 
get  a  caulker's  stage  under  the  bows,  fore  and  aft,  under  the 
bowsprit ;  secure  one  end  snug  to  the  stern,  then  get  a  stout  tackle 
from  the  extreme  end  of  the  bowsprit ;  overhaul  down  and  sling 
the  outer  end  of  the  stage ;  hook  on  your  tackle  to  the  slings, 
lead  your  fall  down  on  the  stage ;  send  the  men  down,  and  bouse 
well  taut,  so  as  to  get  the  weight  of  the  stage  as  much  as  possi- 
ble on  the  bowsprit.  Now  your  stage  being  secured,  you  can 
proceed  to  gammon  your  bowsprit. 

Get  two  stout  luff-tackles  on  the  stage  and  voil  block  ;  then 
get  a  span  around  the  inner  end  of  the  stage  to  hook  your  voil 
block  to  ;  having  your  voil  hooked,  clinch  your  gammoning  round 
your  bowsprit  with  a  running  clinch  or  a  running  eye;  jam  your 
turn  well  round  the  bowsprit,  then  reeve  down  through  the  gam- 
moning hole  up  over  the  bowsprit,  then  pass  your  end  down 
through  the  scuttle  on  to  the  stage ;  reeve  it  through  the  voil 
blocks  on  the  stage ;  clap  on  your  luffs,  and  bouse  away,  leading 
your  fall  fore  and  aft  the  stage. 

Note. — Leading  your  fall  in  this  way  has  a  tendency  to  lift  up 
the  inner  end  of  the  stage,  and  of  course  your  pulling  down,  and 
the  weight  of  the  stage  on  the  gammoning,  must  certainly  bring 
the  bowsprit  snug  down  in  its  bed,  and  set  your  gammoning  up 
very  taut.  Having  got  your  first  turn  taut,  rack  it  well ;  pass 
another,  and  so  on  until  you  fill  up  your  gammoning  hole, 
jamming  your  last  turn  under  all  parts  of  the  gammoning  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  bowsprit  from  the  way  you  have  passed 
your  gammoning. 

When  you  are  setting  up  your  gammoning,  two  men  ought  to 
attend  with  commanders,  to  beat  it  solid  round  the  bowsprit. 

When  they  are  setting  up,  some  people  use  a  great  deal  of  tar 
and  slush  on  gammoning,  but  the  less  the  better.  A  piece  of 
good  leather  under  your  gammoning  is  much  better  than  tarred 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  249 

parceling ;  and  when  your  gammoning  is  passed,  turn  your 
leather  over  aft  and  nail  _t  down  to  the  bowsprit.  Your  gam- 
moning ought  to  be  strapped  with  large  strands  in  the  room  of 
rope,  it  being  much  softer  and  better  to  the  gammoning,  and  all 
well  covered  to  protect  it  from  the  weather.  If  you  use  parcel- 
ing, let  it  be  dry  and  new,  with  a  coat  of  tar  over  all  when  com- 
pleted. 


46O.— PRECAUTION  IN  REEVING  RUNNING-RIGGING. 

In  reeving  running-rigging,  the  boatswain  is  recommended  not 
to  cut  and  reeve,  but  on  the  contrary,  to  reeve  and  cut. 

However  correct  the  rigging  list  may  appear,  there  will  bo 
always  found  a  difference  of  a  few  fathoms  in  rope  ;  and  it  so 
happens  that  the  difference  is  invariably  on  the  wrong  side,  the 
allowance  being  said  to  be  shorter  than  the  measurement  per  rope. 

Note. — It  were  much  to  be  desired  that  the  running-rigging, 
previous  to  reeving,  should  be  stretched  to  the  capstan.  The 
old  practice  of  taking  the  end  through  the  coil  will  in  some 
measure  relieve  the  rope  of  many  of  its  kinks,  but  taking  the 
mere  turns  out  of  a  rope  is  not  sufficient  to  facilitate  its  run 
through  the  blocks.  Such  ropes  as  topsail-sheets,  topgallant-sheets 
and  braces,  and  jib  and  staysail-halliards,  should  be  all  stretched 
before  they  are  rove  in  their  respective  blocks.  Moreover,  if 
there  be  any  time  more  than  another  that  a  vessel  will  require 
her  ropes  to  run  freely,  it  is  upon  the  occasion  of  her  first  leav- 
ing port,  with  a  green  and  undisciplined  crew. 


461.— TOPSAIL   TYES. 

Topsail  tyes  are  now  rove  in  some  ships  sufficiently  long  to 
send  the  yards  down  with,  and  when  not  wanted  for  that  pur- 
pose, the  surplus  ends  pertaining  to  the  standing  parts  secured  to 
the  mast-head. 

In  some  ships  a  strop  and  thimble  are  fitted  under  the  rigging, 
or  a  score  cut  in  the  heel  of  the  topgallant-mast  for  the  purpose 
of  reeving  through  the  standing  part  of  the  tye,  which  is  secured 
breeching-fashion  with  two  strong  seizings,  and  then  stopped 
down  the  topmast  rigging. 

In  shifting  yards,  this  method  will  be  found  to  save  much  time 
and  trouble  ;  the  surplus  end  will  also  answer  to  sling  the  top- 
sail-yard with,  when  going  into  action. 


850  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR  i 

462.  -PRECAUTION    IN    BLACKING    THE     RIGGING, 

In  blacking  the  rigging,  the  first  precaution  that  should  be 
taken  by  the  boatswain,  is  to  cover  with  old  canvass,  or  hammocks, 
the  lower  mast-heads,  and  particularly  the  caps.  The  blacking 
should  be  put  on  hot.  Thin  tar,  with  a  certain  portion  of  lamp- 
lack,  hot  salt-water,  whisky,  and  a  little  litharge  mixed  together, 
nake  an  admirable  mixture  for  blacking  the  rigging. 

It  is  not  recommended  to  blacken  the  royal  and  topgallant  rig- 
ging aloft ;  this  rigging  may  be  previously  blackened  and  triced 
up  to  dry. 


463.— FORE   AND  MAIN  BUNTLINES. 

The  buntlines  of  the  courses  are  frequently  found  to  jam  aloft, 
and  when  rove  on  the  bight,  and  led  forward,  constantly  to  be- 
come cable-laid.  Buntlines  will  be  found  to  lead  fairer,  and  to 
haul  the  sails  higher  up,  by  fitting  them  after  the  following 
method. 

In  the  fore  part  of  the  top  between  the  trestle-trees,  cut  two 
holes ;  into  these  holes  insert  leaden  pipes,  backstay-fall  fashion ; 
hook  to  the  foremost  bolt,  on  each  side  of  the  lower  cap,  a  block, 
through  which  each  buntline-leg  is  to  be  rove ;  take  each  through 
the  holes  cut  in  the  top,  and  pass  them  down  before  all,  and  tog- 
gle them  to  the  foot  of  the  sail,  the  hauling  part  to  lead  aft 
through  the  lubber's  hole,  and  a  block  turned  in  at  a  proper  dis- 
tance, to  allow  the  after  leg  to  act  the  part  of  a  pendant. 

Through  this  block  a  whip  purchase  is  rove ;  by  this  method  the 
buntlines  will  be  always  kept  clear,  and  they  will  be  found,  on 
letting  go  the  whips,  to  overhaul  themselves.  In  port,  when  the 
ship  is  moored,  the  buntline-blocks,  with  the  ropes  rove,  may  be 
unhooked  from  the  bolts  in  the  cap,  and  placed  in  the  top,  imme- 
diately over  the  holes  through  which  the  foremost  legs  are  rove  in, 
find  can  be  hooked  in  a  moment,  when  wanted. 


464.— TOPGALLANT  MAST  ROPES. 

For  expedition  the  mast-rope  rove  upon  the  bight,  with  lizards 
lakeo  through  the  royal  sheave,  must  be  preferred  to  the  old 
method  of  fidding  masts,  by  the  double  operation  of  two  mast 
ropes,  namely  the  long  and  the  short.  If  delay  is  desired,  or  in 
other  words,  people  prefer  going  the  longest  way  to  work,  the 
short  mast-rope  must  be  put  in  requisition.  The  mast  rope,  how 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  251 

ever,  rove  upon  the  bight  with  lizards,  is  better  calculated  for 
harbor  practice  than  for  sea  service.  The  mast  rope  which  is 
here  recommended  is  applicable  to  every  purpose,  may  be  fitted 
as  follows :  The  rope  is  rove  as  usual,  stopped  to  the  topgallant 
mast-head,  and  royal  sheave-hole,  leaving  a  long  end  over  the 
upper  stop  tc  hitch  to  the  bolt  in  the  cap  before  cutting  the  stops. 
To  prevent  the  ropes  from  slipping,  rack  both  parts  together 
above  the  sheave-hole  in  the  heel  of  the  mast. 


465.— FUTTOCK  SHROUDS. 

In  all  vessels  of  war,  futtock  shrouds  are  too  long.  Ships 
whose  lower  yards  are  slung  high,  and  braced  sharply  up,  have 
their  futtock  shrouds  considerably  shorter  than  the  established 
length. 


466.— TOPS   AND   HALF   TOPS. 

Many  seamen  affect  to  disapprove  of  half  tops,  asserting  that 
two  halves  can  never  be  so  well  secured  as  the  whole.  This  is 
mere  prejudice ;  for  practical  purposes  a  half  top  must  be  always 
preferred,  especially  in  large  ships. 


467.— STRIKING  OR  HOUSING  TOPMASTS. 

The  absence  of  forethought,  or  a  little  practical  precaution  on 
the  part  of  the  boatswain  and  petty  officers,  is  sometimes  the 
cause  of  this  operation  being  one  of  no  little  labor.  When  the 
hands  are  turned  up,  strike  topmasts.  The  lanyards  of  the  after 
rigging,  back-stays  and  topmast-rigging  should  be  severally  slack- 
ed, whilst  the  jib-stay,  fore-topmast-staysail-halliards,  topsail-hal- 
liards, topsail  lifts,  reef-tackles  and  topgallant-sheets  ought  to  DR 
well  overhauled.  Steady  hands  should  be  placed  to  attend  the 
spring  and  standing-stays. 

When  blowing  hard,  head-to-wind,  topmasts  constantly  bend  in 
the  cap,  from  the  circumstance  of  letting  go  and  overhauling  too 
much  of  the  stays. 

Should  there  be  any  unusual  strain  on  the  top-tackle-pendants, 
it  is  well  to  "  stand-fast"  the  falls  for  a  few  seconds,  in  order  that 
the  people  aloft  may  examine  the  vicinity  of  the  trestle-trees  ; 
and  the  mast  may  produce  sufficient  strain  to  cany  away  the 


252  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

top-ttxkle-falls,  if  not  the  pendants.  This  precaution  is  mosl 
particularly  directed  during  periods  of  striking  topmasts  in  the 
dark. 

When  the  masts  are  struck,  they  should  be  kept  on  the  right 
slue,  and  their  heels  securely  lashed,  in  the  event  of  the  ship 
parting,  or  it  becomes  necessary  to  set  close-reefed-topsails,  with 
the  mast  down.  The  practice  of  sheep-shanking  back-stays  is  not 
recommended ;  the  back-stays  may  be  set  up  through  the  medium 
of  good  luff-tackles,  and  by  such  means  the  mast  may  be  rendered 
sufficiently  secure  to  support  the  strain  of  a  close-reefed-topsail. 


468.—  SWAYING  UP   TOPMASTS. 

In  performing  this  heavy  operation,  every  care  should  be  taken 
to  overhaul  well,  and  to  see  that  such  of  the  standing  and  run- 
ning-rigging are  perfectly  clear,  which  are  calculated  to  impede 
the  ascent  of  the  masts. 

The  topsail-lifts,  topsail-tyes.  reef-tackles,  jib  and  staysail-hal- 
liards should  be  well  overhauled  below  and  aloft,  and  the  lan- 
yards of  the  topmast-rigging  and  back-stays  be  got  ready  for  set- 
ting up,  the  moment  the  mast  is  ridded  and  stayed.  The  fore- 
castle men  should  have  luffs  led  along  the  bowsprit,  and  tackles 
up  and  down  the  foremast  ready  for  staying  the  fore  and  main- 
topmasts.  No  topmast  should  be  ndded  by  a  single  top-tackle- 
pendant.  It  is  true  that  small  vessels  are  not  allowed  a  second 
pendant,  but  such  ships  should  reeve  a  hawser  through  the  dead 
sheave  for  the  purpose  of  acting  the  part  of  a  preventer,  in  the 
event  of  the  top-tackle-fall  parting.  The  same  precaution  should 
be  taken  with  respect  to  the  position  of  the  cross-trees  overhead 
as  has  been  already  mentioned  under  the  head  of  rigging  top- 
masts. 


z.  —  Such  ships  should  be  prepared  with  stoppers,  with  two 
tails  and  a  toggle,  so  as  to  clap  on  the  top-tackle  pendants  about 
a  foot  abaft,  and  under  the  top-block  hooked  to  the  cap. 

Topmasts  ascend  comparatively  easy  until  the  fid-hole  comes 
within  six  inches  of  the  trestle-trees  ;  then  a  heavy  strain  is 
Drought  upon  the  pendants,  particularly  upon  the  falls. 


469.— UNMOORING. 

It  frequently  occurs  in  unmooring  vessels  of  war  that  the 
veering-cable  is  not  sufficiently  veered.     In  weighing  the  firs* 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  253 

anchor,  a  considerable  strain  has  been  felt  at  the  capstan,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  ship  not  being  permitted  to  bring  the  cable  up 
and  down.  It  is  recommended  to  veer  three  or  four  fathoms  al- 
ter the  cable  is  said  to  be  up  and  down.  This  can  do  no  harm  •, 
it  will  put  the  whole  strain  of  the  ship  on  the  anchor ;  that  is, 
in  weighing,  and  thereby  facilitate  tripping  it. 


470.— REEF  LINES   TO   THE   TOPSAILS. 

Few  ships  in  the  service  are  fitted  with  these  lines.  In  some 
ships  they  are  attached.  In  reefing  topsails,  when  blowing  fresh 
and  particularly  when  steering  a  course,  or  going  large,  reef- 
lines  assist  materially  to  spill  the  sail  and  enable  the  men  on 
the  yards  to  get  hold  of  the  points,  which  are  difficult  to  reach 
when  the  canvass  is  bellying  to  the  breeze. 

Reef-lines  are  thus  fitted  : — Take  a  piece  of  small  rope,  splice 
one  end  into  an  eyelet-hole  in  the  head  of  the  sail,  seize  it  around 
the  neck  of  one  of  the  first  reef-points,  on  the  foreside  of  the  sail, 
in  a  straight  line  with  the  eyelet-hole,  leaving  enough  slack  to 
prevent  the  sail  girting ;  then  seize  it  under  to  the  second,  then 
the  third  reef ;  splice  an  eye  in  the  end  and  seize  it  to  the  neck 
of  a  close-reef  point.  In  large  ships  there  should  be  three  reef- 
lines  on  each  yard-arm  ;  in  small  vessels  two  will  be  sufficient. 


471.— REEFING  COURSES. 

To  execute  this  service  with  security  as  well  as  with  celerity, 
the  reef-earings  should  be  formed  of  rope  sufficiently  strong  to 
bear  being  boused  out  by  the  boom-jiggers ;  by  this  method  the 
inner  turns  of  small  rope  may  be  passed  with  facility. 

The  outer  earing  should  be  led  through  a  block  or  cheek,  fit- 
ted for  the  purpose ;  this  earing,  it  must  be  remembered,  is  not 
to  be  considered  as  a  substitute  for  the  reef-pendant;  it  should 
also  be  hooked  and  hauled  out  by  a  separate  tackle.  It  is  the 
general  custom  now,  to  fit  all  reef-earings  on  the  bight,  and 
on  both  ends. 


254  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

472.— TOPGALLANT-MASTS  STliUCK 

"When  topgallant-masts  are  struck,  care  should  be  taken  that 
a,  small  mat  be  placed  between  the  topmast  and  the  heel  of  the 
topgallant-mast ;  proper  heel  lashings  should  also  be  fitted  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  the  latter. 


473.— HAILING    ALOFT. 

Hailing  aloft,  in  well  regulated  ships,  is  much  repressed  by  the 
boatswain  ;  for  bluster  is  a  general  indication  of  but  little  work, 
or  the  truth  of  the  adage,  "  All  noise  and  no  work" 


474.— PROPORTIONS   FOR   CABLES— (Hemp). 

The  sheet  and  bower-cable,  one  inch  in  circumference  for 
every  two  feet  of  beam.  The  stream-cable  and  messenger,  two- 
thirds  of  the  sheet  or  bower  chain-cables,  which  are  used  for 
bowers ;  an  allowance  is  made  of  one  eighth  of  an  inch  for  the 
diameter  of  the  wire  of  the  links,  for  every  inch  of  circumference 
of  the  hemp-cables.  The  same  rule  applies  in  all  cases  where 
iron  rigging  is  substituted  for  hemp. 

Note. — Cable-yarns  are  spun  two-fifths  longer  than  the  cable 
for  which  they  are  intended.  The  yarns  for  one  hundred  and 
twenty  fathoms  of  cable,  must  be  two  hundred  fathoms  long ;  for 
a  shroud-laid  rope  the  yarns  are  one-third  longer — i.  e.,  ninety 
for  sixty  fathoms.  (See  table  of  cables.) 


±t  5.— PROPORTIONS  FOR  ANCHORS. 

For  the  sheet  and  bower-anchors,  take  two-thirds  the  numbei 
of  feet  which  the  ship  draws  with  all  her  stores,  &c.,  on  board, 
and  add  it  to  the  breadth  of  beam,  allowing  one  hundred-weight 
for  every  foot.  The  stream-anchor  one  third  of  the  sheet  or 
bower. 

For  ships  smaller  than  frigates,  an  allowance  of  five  hundred 
weight  for  every  hundred  tons  burthen,  should  be  made  for  sheet 
and  bower-anchors. 


Representation  of  a  Temporary  Rudder. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  gob 

In  stocking  an  anchor,  add  together  the  lengtl  of  the  shank, 
and  half  the  round  of  the  ring,  for  the  length  of  the  stock.  The 
stock  is  as  many  inches  in  thickness  in  the  middle,  as  the  shank 
is  long  in  feet,  and  is  tapered  to  half  the  size  at  the  end.  In 
puddening  an  anchor  ring,  cut  the  lengths  three  times  the  round 
of  the  ring. 

Note. — This  anchor  is  for  hemp-cables ;  if  for  chain-cables,  the 
length  of  shank  may  be  reduced  one  fourth,  but  not  in  weight. 
(See  allowance  table.) 


476.— WHAT   LENGTH    IS  NECESSARY  TO  FORM 
A   CLINCH. 

In  bending  cables,  the  length  of  rope  necessary  to  form  a 
clinch,  is  equal  to  the  length  of  the  shank  of  the  anchor. 


477.— REFERENCES   TO   SKETCH    OF    TEMPORARY 

RUDDER. 

A.  A  piece  of  oak  fitted  with  iron  pintles,  before  launching  oi 
while  in  dock,  and  supplied  to  the  ship  when  going  to  sea ; 

B.  A  piece  for  the  back,  and  provided  for  the  same ; 

C.  A  spare  topmast,  cut  off  clear  of  the  sheave-hole ;  a  jib- 
ooom  might  do,  of  the  new  regulation. 

D.  Iron  bolts ; 

E.  Chocks; 

F.  Iron-pig  ballast  (if  necessary) ; 

G.  Eye-bolt  in  quarter-deck  beam,  to  be  put  in  when  required ; 
H.  Rope-guys  (through  the  heel-chock  E),  to  assist  in  hang- 
ing the  rudder.     (See  sketch  of  temporary  rudder.] 


478.— TO   SPLICE   AN   OLD   CABLE   TO  A  NEW  ONR 

Take  the  old  one  to  a.  rope-walk,  unlay  the  strands,  and  splice 
them  to  the  strands  of  the  new  one  with  long  splices,  after  which 
lay  up  the  latter.  It  can  be  done  in  another  way,  but  it  requires 
a  good  and  neat  marlingspike-sailor  to  do  it. 


g5G  I'HE   K EDGE- ANCHOR; 


479.— STRIP  SHIP 

Begin  aloft,  and  go  down  regularly,  sending  down  by  a  reverse 
operation.  Commence  with  the  topgallant  and  royal-rigging, 
and  rig  in  the  flying-jib-boom :  next  send  down  topsail  and  low- 
er yards,  topmast-caps ;  unrig  the  topmasts,  get  in  the  jib-boom 
and  spritsail-yards  ;  get  off  lower  caps,  tops  and  rigging  ;  unrig 
the  bowsprit,  and  unrig  all  gaffs,  booms  and  davits. 

Note. — Tally  and  strop-up  rigging  as  fast  as  unrove  and  sent 
down. 


48O.— PROPORTIONS   OF  SPARS  FOR   MERCHANT 
SHIPS,  LENGTH   OF  SPARS,  &c.,  &o. 

Main-mast  equal  to  two-and-a-half  times  the  ship's  beam. 

Fore-mast  equal  to  eight-ninths  the  main-mast. 

Mizen-mast  equal  to  five-sixths  of  the  main-mast. 

Bowsprit  two-thirds  of  the  main-mast,  one-third  of  which 
ought  to  be  in-board. 

Main-topmast  three-fifths  of  the  main-mast. 

Main-topgallant-mast  one-half  of  the  main-topmast,  exclusive 
of  the  pole,  which  is  generally  one-h&lf  the  length  of  the  top* 
gallant-mast  or  a  little  longer. 

Fore-topmast  three-fifths  of  the  foremast. 

Fore-topgallant-mast  one-half  the  length  of  the  fore-topmast, 
exclusive  of  the  pole,  which  is  half  the  length  of  the  topgallant 
mast. 

Mizen-topmast  three-fifths  of  the  mizen-mast. 

Mizen-topgallant-mast  one-half  the  length  of  the  mizen-top- 
mast,  and  the  pole  one  half  the  length  of  the  topgallant-mast. 

Jib-boom  the  length  of  the  bowsprit,  two-thirds  of  which  length 
is  rigged  without  the  bowsprit-cap. 

Main-yard  twice  the  ship's  extreme  breadth. 

Main-topsail-yard  two-thirds  of  main-yard. 

Main-topgallant-yard  two-thirds  of  main-topsail-yard. 

Fore-yard  seven-eighths  of  main-yard. 

Fore-topsail-yard  two-thirds  of  fore-yard. 

Fore-topgallant-yard  two-thirds  of  the  fore-topsail-yard. 

Royal-yards  two-thirds  the  length  of  the  respective  topgallant 
yards. 

Cross-jack-yard  same  length  of  main-topsail-yard. 

Mizen-topsail-yards  the  same  length  of  the  main-topgallant- 
yard. 

Mizen-topgallant-yard  two-thirds  of  mizen-topsail-yard. 

Spritsail-yards  five-sixths  of  the  fore-topsail-vard. 


OR    YOtHNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  257 

Remark. — Some  have  the  spritsail-yard  the  length  of  the  fore- 
topsail-yard,  or  nearly  so  ;  if  it  should  be  much  shorter,  the  jib- 
fcheets  will  chafe  against  the  spritsail-braces. 

Spanker  boom  the  length  of  the  main-topsail-yard  ;  it  is  how- 
ever made  sometimes  longer,  and  sometimes  shorter,  according 
to  fancy.  Mizen-gaff  two-thirds  of  the  spanker-boom — liable  to 
the  same  variation.  Topsail  yard-arms  to  be  long  enough  to 
haul  out  close-reef-earing. 


481 — THICKNESS   OF  SPARS— MASTS. 

It  has  been  customary  to  allow  for  every  three  feet  of  the 
main-mast's  length,  one  inch  of  the  diameter  in  the  partners ; 
nine-tenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  in  the  middle,  between  the 
partners  and  the  extremity  of  the  head,  and  two-thirds  under 
the  hounds,  and  all  other  masts  in  the  same  proportion ;  and 
with  these  proportions  masts  have  been  usually  made  :  I  am 
however  of  opinion  that  one-quarter  of  an  inch  to  the  foot  i? 
much  better. 


482.— YARDS. 

For  every  four  feet  of  their  length,  allow  one  inch  of  diameter 
in  the  slings,  and  half  that  diameter  within  the  squares  at  the 
yard-arm. 


483.— DISTANCE  FOR  PLACING-  LOWER  MASTS, 
in  vessels  of  two  masts. 

Foremasts  one-seventh  the  length  of  spar-deck  from  forward. 
Main  two  and  five-sevenths  as  far  from  the  foremast. 

Note. — The  above  rule  is  not  to  be  considered  proper  for  all 
vessels;  their  places  must  be  governed  by  the  form  of  the  vessel. 


484.— RULE   FOR  PLACING  MASTS  IN  A  SHIP. 

Take  the  ship's  length  from  the  after  part  of  the  stem  to  the 
fore  part  of  the  stern-post,  and  divide  it  into  sevenths.  Place  the 
foremast  one-seventh  of  this  length  from  the  stem,  the  main- 
mast three-sevenths  from  the  fore-mast,  the  mizen  and  stern-post 


258 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


This  rule  is  for  a  full-built  ship ;  it  must  therefore  be  varied 
when  applied  to  vessels  that  are  sharp,  and  the  stem  and  stem- 
posts  of  which  rake ;  the  foremast  must  accordingly  be  placed 
farther  aft,  the  mizen-mast  farther  forward,  and  the  distance  be- 
tween the  masts  proportionably  regulated. 


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OR  1'OriNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  259 

486.— TO    FIND    THE    TONNAGE  OF    A    VESSEL,  BY 
THE  UNITED  STATES'   MEASUREMENT. 

The  length  is  taken  from  the  fore  part  of  the  main  stern,  to  the 
after  part  of  the  stern-post.  The  beam  is  measured  at  the  ex- 
treme breadth  to  the  outside  of  the  bends  ;  three-fifths  this  beair. 
is  taken  off  the  length,  before  the  calculation  is  made.  For  a 
double— decked  vessel,  half  the  breadth  of  beam,  is  called  the 
depth  of  hold,  and  for  a  single-deck  it  is  the  same,  except  that 
the  hold  is  measured  at  the  fore  part  of  the  hatchway,  from  the 
deck  down  to  the  ceiling  alongside  the  keelson. 

To  proceed  on  in  this  calculation,  after  all  the  allowances  have 
been  made,  the  length  must  be  multiplied  by  the  breadth,  and 
the  product  by  the  depth  of  the  hold ;  then  divide  the  last  product 
by  95,  and  the  quotient  will  give  the  tonnage  required. 

Formerly  the  British  divided  by  94,  both  for  merchant  vessels, 
and  ships  of  war ;  but  I  have  been  informed  they  now  divide  by 
100,  which  is  the  reason  that  they  make  our  ships'  tonnage  lees 
than  we  do. 

Notes  on  the  tonnage  of  a  vessel. — The  ship-carpenters'  ton- 
nage in  Philadelphia  differs  from  the  United  States'  measurement. 

A  rule  staff  is  laid  under  the  keel,  projecting ;  a  line  is  plumbed 
from  the  upper  part  of  the  stern  to  the  rule  staff;  the  keel  is 
measured  from  its  after  part  to  the  plumb  line,  and  including  the 
rule  staff,  this  is  called  the  length  of  keel  straight  rabbit.  The 
beam  is  measured  from  skin  to  skin,  on  the  inside ;  three-fifths 
of  the  beam  is  taken  off  the  keel  straight  rabbit,  for  the  length, 
and  the  calculation,  in  other  respects,  is  the  same  as  in  the  United 
States'  measurement ;  so  that  the  carpenters'  tonnage  in  Phila- 
delphia will  be  less,  according  to  the  rake  of  the  stern-post,  &c. 

The  dead  rise  of  a  vessel  is  found  by  having  a  staff  half  the 
beam  from  skin  to  skin,  at  the  extreme  breadth,  which  staff  is 
laid  even  across  on  the  ceiling  of  the  fore  part  of  the  main  hatch- 
way. One  of  the  timber  boards  being  taken  up,  a  line  is  let  fall 
from  the  staff  to  the  skin  alongside  the  keelson,  and  what  it 
measures  is  the  vessels  dead  rise  ;  so  that  in  order  to  know  how 
sharp  a  vessel  is,  it  is  customary  to  ask  how  much  dead-rise  she 
has. 


48 7. —STEPPING  AND  RAKING   LOWER   MASTS. 

Foremasts  of  all  ships  should  be  stepped  plumb,  or  perpendic- 
ular, to  a  water-line.     All  mainmasts  should  rake  one  inch  to 
every  four  feet  above  deck,  and  all  mizen-masts  should  rake  one 
inch  to  every  three  feet  abr  ve  deck.     All  bowsprits  should  he 
20 


Tt[E  KEDGE-AN-CHOR; 

wtepped  in  a  direct  line,  drawn  from  the  step  of  the  mainmast  to 
the  lower  part  of  the  bowsprit  b^d  ;  this  line  answers  for  the  lower 
part  of  the  bowsprit. 

It  has  been  the  opinion  of  many  sea-officers,  that  a  mast,  by 
raking,  will  aid  a  ship  in  saiKng ;  but  it  has  been  satisfactorily 
proved,  that  it  has  the  contrary  effect :  for  instance,  a  ship  that 
has  her  masts  perpendicular  only,  has  to  bear  them  in  two  posi- 
tions ;  the  one  on  the  step,  and  the  other  on  the  side  of  support ; 
her  yards  hang  free,  brace  easy,  and  bear  no  strain  against  them  ; 
whereas  a  ship  with  her  masts  raking,  has  to  bear  them  in  three 
positions — the  one  on  the  step,  one  on  the  side  of  support,  and 
the  other,  which  is  very  great,  on  the  fore  and  aft  stays  ;  her 
yards  also  hang  very  heavy  against  the  mast,  which  adds  also 
to  the  fore  support.  This  must  cause  a  great  check  in  the  pro- 
gressive movements  in  the  ship.  A  sharp  vessel  or  ship,  with  a 
lean  harping,  by  raking  her  masts,  frequently  eases  her  in  pitch- 
ing, but  never  adds  to  her  sailing,  the  wind  having  less  power  on 
her  sails,  and  the  principal  reason  why  a  ship's  main  and  mizen 
masts,  should  rake  a  little  from  her  foremast  is,  that  by  separat- 
ing the  masts  in  this  way,  the  wind  has  a  better  chance  of  ef- 
fecting its  full  power  on  all  the  sails,  and  of  striking  that  part  of 
them,  which  otherwise  would  be  of  little  or  no  advantage  to  the 
ship. 


488.— MOORING. 

It  has  been  argued  and  proved,  that  if  ships  have  room  to  lay 
at  single  anchor  with  chain-cables,  they  are  more  safe  than  when 
moored.  The  following  example  is  given  as  an  illustration. 

Let  A  be  moored  with  75  fathoms  s.  E.  and  N.  w.  and  B  be  at 
single  anchor,  with  the  same  scope  of  chain  ;  a  gale  commences 
from  the  s.  w. ;  the  strain  on  each  of  A's  cables  is  double  the 
strain  on  B's. 

It  blows  harder,  and  B  lets  go  her  other  bower,  and  veers  150 
fathoms  on  the  first,  and  75  on  the  second  cable.  A  also  veers 
150  fathoms  on  both  cables,  but  B  still  keeps  her  advantage,  the 
strain  being  only  as  88  to  100 ;  it  is  clear,  therefore,  that  if  either 
ship  parts  her  cable,  it  must  be  A  that  will  part  first. 

If  A  had  her  mooring  swivel  on,  she  could  not  veer  with  any 
advantage,  as  the  strain  on  that  part  of  the  cable  between  the 
swivel  and  anchor  must  remain  constant ;  for  this  reason,  it  is 
obvious  that  moorings  should  not  be  laid  down  across  the  pre- 
vailing winds. 

The  above  may  be  shown  practically  by  stretch  ing  a  small  line 
between  two  points,  and  suspending  a  weight  in  the  middle ;  see 
what  weight  it  will  bear,  and  afterwards  try  what  the  same  line 
will  bear  vertically  ;  the  latter  will  be  the  ship  at  single  anchor, 
the  former  the  one  moored. 


PART  IX. 


489.— PREPARATIONS  FOR  HEAVING  DOWN. 

CLEARING    THE    SHIP. 

The  ship  should  be  stripped  to  lower-masts  and  lower-rigging, 
cleared  of  everything  excepting  the  spars  and  running-gear,  which 
will  be  required  for  lashings  ;  top  and  gear-tackles,  runners,  luffs, 
pendant-tackles,  and  in  fact  all  the  tackles  of  every  size.  The 
hammock-nettings  should  be  taken  off,  the  loose  bulk-heads  re- 
moved, and  everything  that  is  not  applicable  to  the  operation  to 
be  performed,  as  it  is  desirable  to  have  the  ship  as  light  as  possi- 
ble. The  lower  yards  should  be  kept  aloft  till  the  outriggers  are 
placed. 

CHOICE    AND    POSITION    OF    THE    OUTRIGGERS    AND    SHORES. 

If  left  to  your  own  resources,  and  large,  rough  spars  are  not  to 
be  obtained,  the  following  may  be  used  for  outriggers,  three  of 
which  will  be  required  for  each  mast ;  i.  e.,  fore  and  main. 

Mam-mast.  Fore-mast. 


1  Main-topmast. 
1  Main-topsail-yard. 
1  Half-yard  (rough). 


1  Fore-topmast. 
1  Fore-topsail-yard. 
1  Cross-jack-yard. 


Note. — If  you  can  get  other  spars,  the  yards  should  not  be  used 

The  spars  should  be  placed  in  the  main-deck-ports  before  and 
abaft  the  masts.  When  they  are  placed,  the  lower-yards,  caps, 
tops  and  cross-trees  may  be  sent  down  and  landed. 

The  shores  should  then  be  placed  with  their  heels  resting 
in  shoes  or  the  spare  fishes,  close  out  to  the  water-ways,  and  their 
heads  between  the  trestle-trees  before  and  abaft  the  mast-heads. 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 
MAST-HEAD    SHORES. 

Main-mast.  Fore-mast. 

\  Main-topmasl.  1  Fore-topmast. 


1  Spanker-boom. 


1  Jib-boom. 


In  preference  to  using  belly-shores,  I  would  recommend  to  fish 
the  main-mast  with  the  two  mizen-topmasts,  and  the  foremast 
with  fore  arid  main-topgallant-masts ;  if  no  other  spars  are  to  be 
had,  the  topgaliant-studdingsail-booms  must  be  cut  up  for  shores 
for  the  decks  and  outriggers. 

CARPENTERS'  WORK. 

In  the  mean  time  the  carpenters  should  be  employed  in  shoring 
the  outriggers'  and  decks  under  the  beams,  on  which  the  mast- 
head-shores rest :  good  stages  should  also  be  prepared,  the  spare- 
shackle  or  gammoning-bolts  got  ready;  the  copper  should  be 
stripped  where  they  are  to  be  driven,  viz. :  before,  abaft,  and  be- 
tween the  outriggers,  as  low  as  convenient  for  driving,  and  fore- 
locking  them  on  the  inside,  or  as  the  water  line  will  allow. 

Note. — The  holes  should  be  bored  slanting  upwards,  so  that 
the  martingales  will  rather  tend  to  set  them  in  than  draw  them 
out ;  the  shackles  or  rings  of  the  gammoning-bolts  should  then 
be  well  parceled. 

SECURING    THE    OUTRIGGERS. 

In  the  meantime  a  party  of  riggers  or  seamen  should  be  em- 
ployed to  fit  the  martingales  and  outrigger-shrouds,  and  to  strap 
the  purchase-blocks. 

MARTINGALES. 

The  size  of  the  martingales  must  depend  upon  the  angle  which 
you  are  able  to  give  them,  as  their  size  must  increase  as  their 
angle  becomes  less.  If  the  bolts  are  near  the  water-line,  three 
parts  of  eight-inch  for  each  outrigger  will  be  found  sufficient. 
The  main  outriggers  should  be  cleated  about  eighteen  feet  from 
the  side,  for  the  rigging.  The  heels  should  be  well  shored  down 
and  securely  lashed ;  they  should  also  be  securely  lashed  down  01 
gammoned  to  the  breeching-bolts  or  scupper-holes,  and  shored  by 
diagonal  shores  in  the  angles  of  the  port-sills,  that  the  spars  in 
rising  may  bring  an  equal  pressure  on  all  parts ;  otherwise  it 
would  probably  strain  the  top  sides :  the  outriggers  should  also 
nave  a  stout  lashing  to  the  train-bolts  amidships.  If  the  topsail- 
yards  are  used  (which  is  not  advisable  when  other  spars  can  be 
obtained),  the  inner  yard-arms  must  not  be  allowed  to  butt  the 
ship's  side,  or  water-ways ;  they  should  have  chain-snotters,  and 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  263 

must  be  shored  in  all  directions.  The  fore-outriggers  should  be 
cleated  about  fifteen  feet  from  the  ship's  side,  and  secured  in- 
board as  the  main.  In  addition  to  the  martingale,  the  three  out- 
riggers for  each  mast  may  be  connected  by  luffs  boused  well  taut, 
and  the  stay-tackles  may  be  used  for  fore  and  after-guys,  which 
\vill  bring  all  to  a  fair  strain.  Any  farther  security  that  may 
suggest  itself  at  the  time,  according  to  circumstances,  should  not 
be  omitted,  as  you  will  never  err  by  being  on  the  safe  side 

STRAPS    FOR    PURCHASE-BLOCKS 

I  would  also  recommend  the  straps  for  the  purchase- clocks 
should  be  warped  of  new,  three-inch  rope,  selvagee-fash  ion,  instead 
of  the  large  rope-strap.  The  upper  one  will  take  about  two 
coils,  which  will  give  about  twenty-eight  parts  in  the  strap.  The 
strap  being  middled,  and  the  block  seized  in,  the  eyes  or  legs 
should  pass  round  the  mast-head,  and  lash  on  the  same  side  as 
the  block,  and  above  it,  which  will  give  four  times  twenty-eight 
parts  of  three-inch  rope  in  the  neck  of  the  strap. 


PIT-BLOCKS. 

The  length  of  the  lower  strap  must  vary  according  to  the  pit 
you  heave  down  to.  It  should  contain  at  least  thirty  parts  of 
three-inch,  and  also  have  four  parts  of  the  strap  in  the  neck.  If 
the  pit  is  deep,  it  will  be  better  to  warp  two  separate  straps  of  half 
the  length  for  the  lower  blocks.  The  same  way  for  the  fore- 
mast, which  may  be  securely  lashed  as  most  convenient,  but  nei- 
ther of  the  blocks  should  be  lashed  at  the  mast-head  until  the 
outrigger-shrouds  are  over,  set  up  hand-taut,  and  matted  over  all 

Note. — A  second  or  preventer-purchase  is  required  to  each  mast 


PREVENTIVE    SHROUDS. 

For  the  main-mast,  two  lengths  of  the  stream-cable  (well  par- 
celed) may  next  be  put  over  the  main-mast-head  ;  these  may  be 
set  up  through  the  lower-deck-ports,  and  kept  clear  of  the  chan- 
nels by  short  outriggers  of  hard  wood,  with  grooves  in  the  outer 
end  to  receive  the  cable  resting  in  the  channels,  butting  against 
the  ship's  side,  and  cleated  round  the  heel,  to  form  a  step ;  the 
outrigger-shrouds  for  each  mast  may  then  go  over.  They  should 
be  about  eleven-inch-rope ;  they  must  be  well  parceled :  dead- 
eyes  or  blocks  may  be  used  to  set  them  up,  as  convenient. 


•  Small  sized  chain-cable  maybe  used  to  a  good  advantage  if  it  can  be  obtained 


264  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

For  further  security,  the  following  purchases  may  be  used 

FOR    THE     MAIN-MAST, 

Two  main-top-tackles  lashed  at  the  mast-head  ;  one  set  up  a  I 
the  main-tack-bolts,  the  other  to  the  after-quarter-deck-port ;  two 
mast-head-runners  to  assist  the  main-stay ;  two  belly-stays  of 
eleven-inch,*  lashed  one-third  down  the  mast,  and  set  up  on  the 
weather-side  ;  two  main-yard  tackles  lashed  one-third  down  ;  one 
set  up  in  the  main-tack-bolts,  the  other,  after-quarter-deck-port. 

FOR    THE  FORE-MAST. 

To  assist  the  lower  rigging,  two  threefold  purchases  lashed  to 
the  spare  chain-plate-bolts ;  two  launches'  purchases  lashed  to  the 
mast-head,  and  set  up,  one  to  the  cat-head,  and  the  other  to  the 
after  part  of  the  fore-chains ;  two  runners  lashed  at  the  mast- 
head ;  one  set  up  to  the  cat-head,  one  to  the  chess-tree-bolts  ;  two 
belly-stays  of  eleven  inch,  one-third  way  down  the  mast,  and  set 
up  half-way  in  on  the  bowsprit ;  two  fore-top-tackles  one-third 
down  the  mast ;  one  to  the  cat- head,  one  to  the  chess-tree- water- 
ways, or  scupper-holes,  as  most  convenient. 

THE    BOWSPRIT 

May  be  secured  by  the  two  fore-yard-tackles,  hooked  on  the 
weather-side. 

THE  MIZEN-MAST 

May  be  shored  with  one  shore  at  the  mast-head,  and  the  mizen- 
pendant-tackles  and  burtons  may  be  used  to  assist  the  rigging, 
if  considered  necessary. 

SETTING    UP    THE    RIGGING. 

The  wedges  being  taken  out,  and  the  masts  drawn  over  to  the 
opposite  partners,  the  shores  may  be  cleated  and  lashed  above  the 
rigging,  and  below  the  trestle-trees  with  good  worn  rope  of  three 
or  three-and-a-half-inch  ;  the  lashing  should  be  passed  on  both, 
with  racking  turns,  hove  taut  by  a  Spanish  windlass,  the  ends 
frapped  round  all  parts,  and  secured  ;  the  heels  should  also  be 
lashed  to  the  side,  so  that  they  can  have  no  play  forward  or  aft. 
The  outriggers'  and  martingales  being  well  set  up  to  the  span- 
shackle  bolts,  and  secured  otherwise  as  before  mentioned,  the  lower 
rigging  and  outrigger-shrouds  may  be  set  up  to  a  fair  and  equal 
strain,  respectively  ;  the  outrigger-shrouds  may  be  a  little  tauter 
than  the  rigging,  because  they  have  a  longer  drift,  and  are  less 
Strained  when  offering  the  same  support ;  in  proportion,  the  ad- 
ditional purchases  may  then  be  set  up. 


*  i.  e..  Supposing  the  vessel  to  be  one  of  the  largest  class  of  frigates. 


OR    YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  266 

There  is  one  point  in  the  foregoing  arrangements  that  merits 
peculiar  attention ;  having  once  measured  the  distance  between 
the  mast-heads,  and  the  same  between  your  lower  blocks,  you 
must  be  careful  to  preserve  the  same  distance  between  the  mast- 
heads whenever  you  may  have  occasion  to  set  up  afresh ;  if  you 
neglect  this,  your  mast  "spreads  apart  as  the  ship  comes  down 
and  the  stays  and  rigging  are  unfairly  strained. 

The  slack  of  the  opposite  rigging  should  then  be  taken  in,  and 
a  swifter  should  be  rove  to  keep  it  from  hanging  in  a  bight  as 
the  ship  goes  down. 

When  the  masts  are  thus  secured,  the  purchase-blocks  may  be 
lashed,  and  the  shores  wedged  under  the  heels  until  they  have 
taken  part  of  the  strain  off  the  rigging.  Care  should  be  taken 
that  the  shore-heads  are  clear  of  the  trestle-trees ;  the  strain 
should  not  be  wholly  upon  the  shores  and  deck,  but  each  shroud 
and  purchase  must  bear  its  proportion. 

PURCHASE    FALLS. 

Eleven-inch  fall  tailed  with  eight  inch,  is  sufficient  for  the 
heaviest  ship  in  the  service.  If  you  have  only  your  own  re- 
sources, use  the  large  hawsers  tailed  with  the  smaller,  or  what- 
ever rope  is  convenient  in  the  store-room,  which  may  suit  the 
purpose. 

Note. — In  reeving,  use  a  small  line  for  that  purpose ;  you  will 
also  save  time  and  trouble  by  using  the  capstan*  in  reeving  and 
overhauling  the  falls,  which  is  a  work  of  considerable  time. 

Two-and-a-half-inch  stuff  is  a  good  size  for  a  reeving  line. 

MAST-HEAD    STOPPERS. 

Two  good  stoppers  of  eleven-inch  rope  should  be  fitted  to  each 
mast ;  they  may  go  with  a  clove-hitch  round  the  mast-head,  the 
ends  being  long  enough  to  reeve  through  the  strap  of  the  lower 
purchase-blocks,  to  hitch  and  seize  back ;  a  small  jigger,  and  two 
balls  of  spun-yarn  should  be  ready  for  each  purchase ;  the  lead- 
ing block  should  also  be  lashed  alongside  of  its  respective  pit- 
block  with  a  long  lashing,  to  allow  the  leader  to  rise  high  enough 
to  clear  the  fall  of  the  edge  of  the  pit ;  and  stoppers  must  also  be 
fitted  for  each  leader-crab  or  capstan. 

The  greatest  attention  is  required  to  the  leading  of  the  falls,  as 
the  slightest  chafe  or  rub,  with  so  great  a  strain,  might  prove  of 
serious  consequence ;  a  sharp  axe  should  be  ready  at  each  pit. 


«  If  at  the  wharf  or  navy-yard,  cattle  might  be  clapped  on  to  ree  re  the  fall  with 
greater  facility. 


266 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


THE    PIT. 

The  formation  of  the  pit,  or  sleeper,  in  which  your  lower  olock 
is  secured,  must  vary  so  much  in  locality,  that  no  general  rule 
can  be  given. 

ANCHORS    AND    CABLES. 

The  bowers  may  be  landed,  or  used  to  moor  the  ship  with, 
5iead  and  stern ;  the  sheet-anchors  may  next  be  laid  out  a-beam 
as  tripping-anchors,  at  such  a  distance  according  to  the  depth  of 
the  water,  as  may  ensure  their  holding ;  one  should  be  abreast 
of  the  foremast,  the  other  opposite  the  main-mast ;  a  stout  haw- 
ser should  be  bent  to  the  ring  of  each,  and  brought  in  at  the 
second  lower-deck  port,  abaft  the  main-mast,  and  first  port  abaft 
the  foremast,  on  the  same  side  as  the  anchors  are  laid  out. 

The  chains  to  these  tripping-anchors  should  be  tailed  with  a 
stream-cable,  which  is  to  pass  under  the  ship's  bottom  and  in  at 
khe  quarter-deck  port,  abaft  the  main  channels  and  second  port 
on  the  forecastle ;  these  ports  should  be  well  lined,  and  stoppers 
fitted  ready  for  fleeting ;  a  three-fold  purchase  stretched  across 
the  deck,  may  be  here  applied,  so  that  when  you  have  tripped 
the  ship  off  by  the  hawsers  you  may  bouse  the  cables  in  taut, 
stopper  and  rack  to  the  breeching-bolts. 

In  tripping  off,  you  must  be  careful  to  keep  the  ship  parallel  t ) 
the  pits,  or  you  may  chance  to  bring  one  anchor  home. 

CAULKING,    &C. 

While  the  foregoing  preparations  are  being  made,  the  pumps 
should  be  shortened,  to  work  on  the  lower  deck.  The  caulkers 
and  carpenters  should  be  employed  upon  the  side  that  is  to  be 
hove  down,  stopping  the  air-holes  on  all  the  decks,  and  thorough- 
ly caulking  every  seam  or  hole  that  will  either  be  immersed, 
or  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  water  that  may  find  admittance, 
particularly  in  the  wake  of  the  hammock-nettings  that  have 
been  removed,  and  round  the  quarter-galleries. 


Water 


Liu* 


Arrangement  «>f  the  Pumps  in  heaving  down. 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  267 

The  caulking  should  be  considered  a  very  important  point; 
the  smallest  hole  that  can  admit  water  must  be  carefully  stopped. 

The  main-deck  ports  must  be  filled  up  in  the  centre  with  plank, 
well  caulked,'  and  covered  with  tarred  canvass ;  the  lower  deck 
ports  and  scuttles  thoroughly  caulked  in ;  the  holes  for  the  port- 
pendants  plugged,  cross-caulked,  and  payed  over,  and  the  scup- 
pers made  tight  in  the  same  manner ;  and  it  must  be  remember- 
ed that  want  of  attention  to  these  particulars  may  cost  you  hours 
at  the  pumps,  or  perhaps  oblige  you  to  right  the  ship  at  a 
"moment  when  you  might  advantageously  continue  the  repair; 
the  hawse-holes  and  stern-ports  need  not  be  stopped,  for  they  will 
not  be  near  the  water  when  the  ship  is  keel  out 

LADDERS,    &C. 

Battens  four  inches  deep,  should  be  nailed  fore  and  aft  on  each 
deck ;  knotted  ropes  and  Jacob's-ladders  should  be  placed  at  con- 
venient distances,  to  secure  ready  access  to  every  part  of  the  ship, 
which  is  more  difficult  when  she  is  down  than  would  be  ima- 
gined. 

Note. — The  hatchway  ladders  should  all  be  lashed. 

ARRANGEMENT    OF    THE    PUMPS. 

If  the  water  must  be  raised  more  than  thirty  feet,  two  sets  of 
pumps  will  be  required ;  the  lower  ones  must  throw  the  water 
into  tubs  or  tanks  placed  on  the  lower  deck — the  upper  ones 
must  be  placed  in  these  vessels,  and  raise  it  from  them  to  the  up- 
per deck ;  for  this  purpose  nine  or  ten  pumps  will  be  required ; 
they  may  be  built  square,  of  plank  caulked  in  the  seams,  well 
parceled  and  woolded,  or  if  timber  can  be  had,  may  be  formed 
by  sawing  straight  spars  in  half  lengthwise,  and  rejoining  them 
after  they  are  hollowed ;  then  parceling,  tarring,  and  woolding 
all  over. 

The  number  required  being  completed,  the  lower  and  orlop- 
decks  must  be  scuttled,  to  allow  the  pumps  to  be  placed  at  the 
required  angle,  so  that  their  ends  may  rest  a  little  below  the 
orlop-wing  gratings;  the  main  and  upper  deck  pumps  may  be 
sufficiently  sloped  in  the  hatchways  with  their  beels  in  the  ves 
sels,  which  are  raised  on  platforms  inclined  at  an  angle,  to  pre 
serve  their  level  when  the  ship  is  down. 

The  pumps  should  have  large  holes  in  their  nozzles,  and 
troughs  should  be  made  to  carry  the  water  over  the  skids  to  lee 
ward  on  the  upper  deck. 

Substantial  platforms  must  be  secured  at  the  same  angle,  at 
convenient  positions,  for  the  men  to  work  the  pumps. 

The  pumps  should  be  tried  before  you  heave  down,  to  see  that 
they  are  tight,  and  also  when  in  position  to  see  that  the  brakes 
work  clear  of  the  beams  and  comings. 


268  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Any  fire  engines  that  can  be  procured,  should  be  worked  m 
the  hold  on  similar  platforms,  with  their  hoses  led  on  deck. 

WEIGHT    FOR    HEELING    AND    TRIPPING     SHIP. 

The  rigging1  being  set  up,  the  purchase  falls  rove,  the  pumps 
rigged  and  all  the  foregoing  preparations  made,  fifteen  or  twenty 
tons  of  water  in  casks  may  be  placed  tn  the  side  to  be  hove 
down,  and  lashed  to  the  breeching-bolts,  &c.,  on  the  quarter-deck 
and  fore-castle. 

PREPARATIONS    FOR    HEAVING. 

The  ship  may  then  be  hove  off  by  the  tripping-hawsers  to  the 
distance  of  seventy  or  eighty  feet  from  the  pits,  and  the  tripping- 
cables  boused  well  taut. 

The  men  required  to  work  the  pumps  and  engines,  should  be 
on  board,  with  a  proportion  of  carpenters  to  stop  small  leaks, 
clear  the  pumps,  attend  the  masts  in  the  partners,  &c.;  the 
hand-pumps  should  be  used  as  long  as  they  will  act,  so  as  to 
keep  the  ship  perfectly  dry  ;  the  '  men '  should  be  to  leeward  on 
the  upper  deck,  to  assist  with  their  weight  the  purchases ;  at 
slack  water  you  may  commence  heaving ;  the  ship  will  incline 
15°  before  the  slack  of  the  falls  is  through,  and  will  continue  to 
close  the  pits  until  she  is  down  to  35° ;  she  will  then  begin  to  go 
off.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the  main-mast  is  to  heave  the 
ship  down ;  the  fore  purchase  is  only  an  assistant,  and  must  not 
be  unfairly  hove  upon ;  avoid  surging  as  much  as  possible ;  the 
moment  the  pumps  will  draw  they  must  begin  to  work.  When 
the  ship  is  down  the  falls  must  be  stoppered  and  racked,  the 
mast-head  stoppers  passed,  boused  taut  and  secured ;  you  may 
then  walk  back  and  reverse  the  falls  upon  the  capstans,  taking  a 
turn  round  the  bitts  with  the  running  part,  which  is  to  be  hove 
off  by  the  capstans  as  you  ease  up,  and  will  cause  less  surging. 

STAGES. 

Substantial  floating  stages  having  been  previously  made  b) 
the  carpenters,  should  now  be  ready  to  haul  in ;  a  large  boa! 
containing  tool-chests  and  the  stores  necessary  for  stopping  the 
leak,  should  be  in  attendance ;  when  the  ship  is  down,  not  a 
single  second  should  be  lost ;  let  your  men  sing  out  cheer  at  the 
pumps,  and  forego  that  part  of  your  discipline  for  a  short  time, 
which  might  be  a  hindrance  to  your  immediate  object.  Watch 
narrowly  the  purchases  and  be  ready  to  ease-up  at  a  moment's 
warning,  if  they  slacken  or  any  of  the  gear  carries  away.  In 
easing-up,  when  the  main-deck  scuppers  are  out  of  water,  hold  on, 
take  the  lead  or  canvass  off  that  secured  them,  and  let  the  water 
escape  from  the  deck ;  you  may  get  rid  of  several  tons  thus  with- 
out much  labor. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT. 

The  carpenters  must  be  careful  in  clearing  the  injured  part, 
not  to  increase  the  leak  by  undertaking  more  than  they  are  able 
to  perform  ;  as  a  general  rule,  make  all  as  tight  as  possible  before 
you  think  of  easing-up  for  the  night. 


490.— A  DERRICK. 


What  is  termed  a  derrick,  is  a 
single  spar  rounded  off  at  the  heel 
to  set  in  a  shoe,  (similar  to  a  shear- 
leg;)  the  upper  end  is  made  with 
shoulders  or  cleats,  to  stop  the  pur- 
chase-block from  working  down, 
also  the  guys  ;  the  derrick  may  be 
used  for  many  purposes  instead  of 
shears  to  great  advantage,  espe- 
cially on  board  of  merchant  ships 
when  discharging,  it  being  so  easily- 
swung  from  a  perpendicular  posi- 
tion to  rake  over  the  ship's  side, 
the  heel  resting  in  its  shoe,  and 
the  head  canted  in  any  position  by 
the  guys ;  any  kind  of  a  purchase 
may  be  used  at  a  derrick-head,  but 
the  most  general,  is  the  single  and 
double-burton. 

On  the  subject  of  providing 
means — few  ships  go  to  sea  with- 
out a  spare  topmast  or  a  spar  to  make  one,  which  spar  is  in  every 
way  calculated  for  a  derrick,  if  it  will  make  a  topmast. 

The  rigging,  (that  is  the  various  guys  and  ropes  necessary  to 
sustain  it  in  its  position,)  and  the  purchase-blocks  for  lifting  the 
weight,  may  be  secured  to  the  spar  any  height  above  the  deck  to 
suit  the  particular  purpose  in  hand,  without  either  cutting  the 
spar,  or  nailing  on  cleats — as  by  a  well  managed  arrangement 
of  lashings,  all  slipping  or  shifting  of  position  may  certainly  be 
prevented. 

Note. — The  more  a  derrick  appi  caches  a  perpendicular  position, 
the  less  will  be  the  strain  upon  the  guys. 


270  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR } 

GENERAL   CAUTIONS. 


In  any  very  intricate  Navigation, 

Anchor  at  night  or  when  in  doubt. 

Take  frequent  and  short  departures. 

Pay  particular  attention  that  the  proper  course  is  steered. 

Hand  in  the  chains,  and  lead  kept  going. 

Good  look  out. 

Anchors  ready,  and  cables  clear. 

Canvass  well  regulated  and  be  ready  for  bringing-  up. 

Boats  ready,  tackles  at  hand. 

Stream  cable  and  hawsers  ready. 

Top-gallant-mast-ropes  rove. 

Taken  in  a  Squall. 

A  vigilant  look  out,  will  usually  prevent  your  being  taken  by 
a  squall  in  an  unprepared  state. 

If  taken  in  a  squall  with  the  wind  on  the  beam,  before  it,  01 
close  hauled,  keep  your  luff,  and  lower  away,  and  clew  up  all  as 
fast  as  you  can.  In  doing  so  the  ship  will  be  relieved,  and  the 
canvass  got  in  better  than  if  the  helm  had  been  put  up. 

But  if  taken  in  a  squall  with  the  wind  abaft  the  beam,  putting 
the  helm  up,  and  running  away  from  it,  as  well  as  shortening  sail, 
will  then  be  the  readiest  mode  of  easing  a  ship.  (Remember  this.) 

On  Good  Order — (Merchant  Service}. 

In  a  man-of-war,  discipline  is  productive  of  the  greatest  good 
— the  energies  of  all  are  called  for,  and  employed  as  most  requir- 
ed ;  but  even  without  martial  law  good  regulations  might,  and 
ought  to  be  established  in  every  ship,  at  all  times,  and  in  all 
places. 

The  greatest  assistance  to  the  promotion  of  good  order,  would 
be  SOBRIETY  in  seamen.  The  few  shades  in  the  sterling  qual- 
ities which  belong  to  them,  many  of  their  irregularities  and  acts 
of  insubordination,  may  be  traced  to  intemperance.  They  might 
abstain,  perhaps,  but  they  cannot  refrain.  If  owners  would  give 
$1  a  month  in  lieu  of  spirits,  and  have  a  mutual  agreement  respect- 
ing its  use  abroad,  with  a  stipulated  penalty  for  drunkenness, 
ships  might  be  managed  much  more  safely,  and  with  greater 
ease  and  economy  than  at  present ;  half  the  work  of  discipline 
would  then  be  effected. 

Where  the  men  are  sober,  have  entire  confidence  in  their  offi- 
cers, and  are  well  treated,  not  harrassed  unnecessarily,  and  see 
that  the  comforts  they  ought  to  have  are  properly  attended  to — 
I  think  it  would  be  found  in  most  instances,  that  effective  good 
order  would  establish  itself.  Where  it  does  exist,  the  vessel's  ser- 


OR   YOUNG   SAILORb'  ASSISTANT.  >71 

vices  are  rendered  in  every  way  more  effective  and  beneficial  tc 
her  employers,  as  well  as  more  agreeable  to  the  officers,  crew,  and 
passengers,  if  any,  and  her  chances  of  casualties  considerably 
lessened. 

The  remedy,  too,  is  in  a  great  measure  in  the  hands  of  ship- 
owners and  captains  themselves  ;  for  if  they  required  certificates 
of  sobriety  before  they  would  ship  men,  drunken  ones  would 
either  remain  unemployed  or  become  sober, — for  even  a  sober 
landsman,  is  more  useful  than  a  drunken  sailor. 

On  Cleanliness,  as  regards  the  Preservation  of  Life  in  Vessels. 

Nothing  is  toe  trifling  for  an  officer's  attention,  that  tends  to 
the  health  and  benefit  of  those  dependent  on  his  care  and  fore- 
thought. 

Every  vessel  should  be  pumped  out  morning  and  evening. 

A  clean,  sweet,  and  dry  hold  is  essential  to  the  health  of  the 
crew. 

Nothing  can  be  more  injurious  than  for  men  to  sleep  over 
oilge-water,  which  must  be  the  case  if  any  water  is  left  in  the 
aold  at  night. 

The  hold  ought  to  be  cleared  often,  and  when  it  is,  it  should 
be  white-washed ;  and  also  the  between-decks  frequently  white- 
washed. 

On  Painting. 

In  tropical  climates,  avoid  painting  as  much  as  possible,  pai- 
ticularly  in-board. 

On  the  Health  of  Men,  in  the  Merchant  Service. 

In  port,  in  tropical  climates,  give  the  men  a  little  coffee  before 
they  go  to  work  in  the  morning. 

The  inconsiderate  indulgence  in  new  rum,  has  been  one  grea^ 
means  of  increasing  the  numbers  attacked  with  yellow  fever. 

Do  not  allow  the  men  to  lay  about  in  night  dews ;  and  partic- 
ularly not  to  wait  about  at  wharfs. 

Allow  the  men  the  use  of  fresh  water  whenever  it  can  be  spared 
for  washing  clothes,  and  also  for  themselves. 


21 


PART    X. 


491.— EXPLANATION   OF   SEA  TERMS. 

Aback.  A  sail  is  aback  when  its  forward  surface  is  acted  upoD 
by  the  wind. 

Abaft.  The  hinder  part  of  the  ship.  Behind,  thus  abaft  the 
foremast,  means  anything  nearer  to  the  stern  than  the  foremast. 

Aboard.  In  the  ship ;  as  the  cargo  is  aboard.  A  ship  is  said 
to  fall  aboard  when  she  runs  foul  of  another.  To  get  aboard 
the  main-tack  is  to  bring  the  clew  of  the  mainsail  down  to  the 
chess-tree. 

About.  A  ship  is  said  to  be  going  about,  when  in  the  act  of 
backing ;  the  order  for  which  is  " ready  about  there" 

Abreast.  Opposite  to. 

Adrift.  Broken  loose  from  the  moorings. 

Afloat.  Swimming  ;  not  touching  the  bottom. 

Afore.  That  part  of  the  ship  nearest  to  the  stem  or  head. 

Aft.  Behind ;  as  stand  farther  aft — stand  nearer  to  the  stern. 

After.  Hinder,  as  the  after  ports — those  ports  nearest  the  stern 
— after  sails,  after  hatchway,  &c.,  &c. 

Aground.  Not  having  water  enough  to  float  the  ship,  which 
rests  on  the  ground. 

Ahead.  Before  the  ship. 

A-lee.  The  helm  is  a-lee  when  the  tiller  is  put  to  the  lee-side. 
— "  Hard-a-lee,"  when  it  is  put  as  far  as  it  will  go. 

All  in  the  wind.  When  the  wind  blows  on  the  leeches  or  out- 
vard  extremities  of  the  sails,  and  causes  them  to  shake. 


274  THE  KEDGE-AJNCHOR; 

All  hands,  ahoy.  This  word  given  by  the  boatswain  and  his 
mates  at  the  hatchway  to  assemble  the  ship's  company. 

Aloft.  Up  above;  in  the  rigging ;  on  the  yards  ;  at  the  mast- 
head, &c. 

Alongside.  Close  to  the  ship's  side. 

Amidships.  In  the  middle  of  the  ship.  The  helm  is  amid- 
ships when  the  tiller  is  not  put  over,  either  to  one  side  or  the  other. 

To  anchor.  To  let  the  anchor  fall  overboard,  that  it  may  hold 
the  ship. 

To  foul  the  anchor.  To  let  the  cable  be  twisted  round  the  up- 
per fluke,  &c. 

To  drag  the  anchor.  When  the  ship  pulls  it  with  her,  from  the 
violence  of  the  wind. 

Anchorage.  Ground  fit  to  anchor  in. 

The  anchor  is  a  cock  bill.  It  is  hanging  by  the  stopper  tit  the 
cat-head. 

The  anchor  is  a-peak.  Near  to  the  ship.  Thus  at  different 
distances  it  is  called  a  long  peak,  a  stay  peak,  a  short  peak. 

The  anchor  is  a-weigh  or  a-trip.  Loosened  from  the  ground 
by  heaving  in  the  cable. 

The  anchor  is  backed.  Another  anchor  is  placed  at  a  certain 
distance  before  it,  and  attached  to  it  by  the  cable  of  the  former 
being  fastened  to  it,  which  fixes  it  firmly  in  the  ground. 

The  anchor  is  catted.  Drawn  up  to  the  cat-head. 

The  anchor  is  fished.  Its  inner  arm  is  drawn  up  by  the  fish- 
pendant. 

To  weigh  the  anchor.  To  heave  it  up  by  the  capstan  or  wind- 
lass. 

The  sheet-anchor,  is  of  the  same  size  and  weight  of  the  two 
bower  anchors,  and  the  spare  anchor ;  it  is  a  resource  and  de- 
pendence should  either  of  the  bowers  part,  for  which  purpose  the 
cable  is  always  kept  ready  bent  with  a  long  range,  that  it  may 
be  let  go  on  an  emergency. 

Best  bower  or  small  bower  anchors,  are  the  two  anchors  which 
are  stowed  the  farthest  forward,  or  near  the  bows. 

The  stream-anchor,  is  used  to  bring  the  ship  up  with  occasion- 
ally, or  to  steady  the  ship  when  she  comes  to  a  temporary  moor- 
ing. 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  5^75 

The  hedge-anchor.  The  smallest  of  the  anchors,  to  which  a 
hawser  or  cable  is  generally  bent,  and  used  for  warping  ship. 

An  end.  Any  spar  or  mast  placed  perpendicularly.  The  top- 
masts are  an  end  ;  they  are  swayed  up  and  fidded  above  thelowe* 
masts. 

All  an  end.     All  the  masts  are  up  in  their  proper  stations 

A-peak.  (See  Anchor.) 

Ashore.  On  land  ;  aground. 

Astern.  Behind  the  ship. 

Athwart.  Across.  Athwart  hawse,  across  the  stem ;  athwart 
ships,  anything  lying  in  a  direction  across  the  ship ;  athwart 
the  fore-foot,  a  shot  fired  by  another  ship  across  the  bows. 

Atrip.  (See  Anchor.) 

Avast.  To  cease  hauling  ;  to  stop. 

Aweigh.  (See  Anchor.) 

Aweather.  The  helm  is  said  to  be  aweather,  when  the  tiller  is 
put  over  to  the  windward  side  of  the  ship ;  hard  aweather,  when 
it  it  is  put  over  as  far  as  it  will  go. 

Awning.  A  canvass  canopy,  placed  over  the  deck  when  the 
sun  is  powerful. 

To  back  the  sails.  To  expose  their  forward  surfaces  to  the 
wind,  by  hauling  in  the  weather  braces. 

Back-stays.  Ropes  fixed  at  the  topmast  and  topgallant-mast 
heads,  and  extended  to  the  chains  on  the  ship's  sides. 

To  bag-pipe  the  mizen.  To  bring  the  sheet  over  to  the 
weather-mizen-shrouds,  in  order  to  lay  it  aback. 

To  balance  the  mizen.  Rolling  up  a  portion  of  it  at  the  peak. 

Ballast.  A  quantity  of  iron,  stone,  gravel,  &c.,  placed  in  the 
hold  to  give  a  ship  proper  stability  when  she  has  no  cargo,  or 
but  a  small  quantity  of  goods,  &c< 

Bands.  Pieces  of  canvass  sewn  across  the  sail,  called  reef- 
bands — also  a  piece  stuck  on  the  middle  of  the  sail,  to  strengthen 
.t  when  half- worn. 

Bar.  A  shoal  running  across  the  mouth  of  a  harbor. 

Capstan  bars.  Pieces  of  timber  put  into  the  holes  in  the  drum- 
head of  the  capstan,  (where  they  are  secured  with  iron  pin?,)  to 
Jieave  up  the  anchor,  &c. 

Bare  poles   Having  no  sail  up. 


276  THfi  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

Battens.  Slips  of  wood  nailed  on  the  slings  of  the  yard,  which 
are  eight  square — also  over  the  tarpaulings  of  a  hatchway  to 
keep  the  water  out  in  stormy  weather. 

Bays.  In  men-of-war,  the  starboard  and  larboard  sides  between 
decks,  before  the  bitts ;  in  small  vessels,  amidships. 

Beams.  Strong  pieces  of  timber  across  the  ship,  under  the 
decks,  bound  to  the  side  by  knees.  They  support  and  keep  the 
ship  together. 

On  the  beam.  When  the  wind  blows  at  a  right  angle  with  the 
keel. 

Before  the  beam.  When  the  wind  or  object  bears  on  some 
point  less  than  a  right  angle,  or  ninety  degrees  from  the  ship's 
head. 

Abaft  the  beam.  When  the  wind  or  object  bears  on  some  point 
which  is  more  than  a  right  angle  of  ninety  degrees  from  the 
ship's  course. 

Bearing.  The  point  of  the  compass  on  which  any  object  ap- 
pears ;  it  is  also  applied  to  an  object  which  lies  opposite  to  any 
part  of  the  ship ;  thus  the  buoy,  &c.,  bears  on  the  beam,  the  bow, 
the  quarter,  &c. 

Beating  to  windward.  Tacking,  and  endeavoring  to  get  to 
windward  of  some  head  land. 

Becalmed.  Having  no  wind  to  fill  the  sails.  The  ship  being 
deprived  of  the  power  of  the  wind,  by  the  intervention  of  high 
land,  a  large  ship,  &c. 

Beckets.  Short  straps,  having  an  eye  in  one  end  and  a  double 
walled  knot  on  the  other — for  suspending  a  yard,  &c.,  till  wanted ; 
such  as  the  beckets  for  the  royal-yards,  for  the  bights  of  the 
sheets,  &c. 

To  belay.  To  make  fast. 

Bend.  A  kind  of  knot — as  a  sheet-bend,  &c.,  or  a  seizing,  such 
as  the  bends  of  the  cable. 

To  bend.  To  make  fast — as  to  bend  the  sails,  the  cable,  &c. 

Bends.  The  streaks  of  thick  stuff,  or  strongest  planks  in  the 
ship's  sides,  on  the  broadest  part ;  these  are  also  called  the  wales. 

Between  decks.  Any  part  of  the  ship  below,  betwen  two  decks. 

Bight.  Any  part  of  a  rope  between  the  ends,  also  a  collar  01 
eye  formed  by  a  rope. 


OR    YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT.  277 

Bilge.  The  flat  part  of  a  ship's  bottom.  Bilge  water,  that 
which  rests  in  the  bilge,  either  from  rain,  shipping  water,  &c. 

Binnacle.  The  frame  or  box  which  contains  the  compass. 

Berth.  A  place  of  anchorage  ;  a  cabin  or  apartment. 

Bitts.  Large,  upright  pins  of  timber,  with  a  cross  piece,  over 
\vhich  the  bight  of  the  cable  is  put,  also  smaller  ones  to  belay 
ropes.  such  as  topsail-sheets,  &c. 

To  bitt.  To  place  a  bight  of  the  cable  over  the  bitts. 

Blocks.  Instruments  with  sheaves  or  pulleys,  used  to  increase 
the  power  of  ropes. 

Block  and  block.  When  the  two  blocks  of  a  tackle  are  drawn 
so  close  together  that  there  is  no  more  of  the  fall  left  to  haul 
upon  ;  it  is  also  termed  chock-a-block. 

To  make  a  board.  To  tack. 

To  make  a  stern  board.  To  drive  a  ship  stern  foremost,  by 
laying  the  sails  aback. 

Boarding.  Entering  an  enemy's  ship  by  force ;  the  men  are 
called  boarders. 

Boarding  netting.  Net  work  triced  round  the  ship  to  prevent 
the  boarders  from  entering. 

Boats.  Small  vessels.  Those  belonging  to  ships  are  the  long 
boat,  the  launch,  the  cutter,  the  yawl,  and  the  jolly-boat. 

Boatswain.  The  officer  who  has  charge  of  the  cordage,  boats, 
rigging,  &c. 

Bobstays.  Ropes  rove  through  the  cutwater,  and  set  up  with 
dead-eyes  under  the  bowsprit,  to  act  against  the  power  of  the 
fore  stays.  Sometimes  one  of  these  is  taken  to  the  end  of  the 
bowsprit  to  act  against  the  fore-topmast  stays. 

Bolsters.  Pieces  of  wood  or  canvass  stuffed,  placed  on  the 
lower  trestle-trees  to  keep  the  rigging  from  chafing. 

Bolts.  Iron  fastenings  by  which  the  ship  is  secured  in  her  hulL 

Bolt-ropes.  Ropes  sewn  round  the  edges  of  the  sails. 

Booms.  Large  poles,  used  to  extend  the  studding-sails,  spanker, 
jibs,  &c. 

Boom-irons.  Iron  caps  fixed  on  the  yard-arms  for  ttae  studding- 
•iail-booms  to  rest  in. 

Boies.  The  round  part  of  the  ship,  forward. 

To  bouse.  To  haul  upon. 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Bower.  (See  Anchor.) 

Bowlines.  Ropes  made  fast  to  the  leeches,  or  sides  of  the  sails 
to  pull  them  forward. 

Bowsprit.  A  mast  projecting  over  the  stem. 

Box-hauling.  A  method  of  waring  or  turning  a  ship  from  the 
wind. 

Boxing-off.  Turning  the  ship's  head  from  the  wind  by  back- 
ing the  head  sails. 

Braces.  Ropes  fastened  to  the  yard-arms  to  brace  them  about, 
also  a  security  to  the  rudder,  fixed  to  the  stern-post. 

Brails.  Ropes  applied  to  the  after  leeches  of  the  mizen,  and 
some  of  the  staysails  to  draw  them  up. 

To  break  bulk.  To  begin  to  unload. 

To  break  the  sheer.  To  swerve  from  the  proper  direction  in 
which  a  ship  should  be  when  at  anchor. 

Breaming.  Burning  the  stuff  which  is  collected  on  the  ship's 
bottom  during  a  long  voyage. 

Breast-hooks.  Pieces  of  timber  placed  across  the  bows  of  a 
ship  to  keep  them  together. 

Breast-work.  Railing  on  the  fore  part  of  the  quarter  deck,  where 
ropes  are  belayed. 

Breeching.  A  stout  rope  fixed  to  the  cascable  of  a  gun,  fasten- 
ed to  the  ship's  side  to  prevent  its  running  in. 

Bridles.  The  upper  part  of  the  moorings  laid  in  harbors  for 
men-of-war ;  also  ropes  attached  from  the  leeches  of  the  square 
sails  to  the  bowlines. 

To  bring  up.  To  come  to  an  anchor. 

To  bring  to.  To  make  a  ship  stationary,  stopping  her  way  by 
bracing  some  of  the  sails  aback,  and  keeping  others  full,  so  as  to 
counterpoise  each  other. 

To  bring  by  the  lee.  When  a  ship  is  sailing  with  the  wind  very 
large,  and  flies  off  from  it  so  as  to  bring  it  on  the  other  side,  the 
sails  catching  aback,  she  is  then  said  to  be  brought  by  the  lee; 
this  is -a  dangerous  position  in  a  high  sea. 

To  broach-to.  Flying  up  in  the  wind,  so  as  to  bring  i  on 
the  other  side  when  blowing  fresh. 

Bulk-heads.  Partitions  in  the  ship. 

BuWs-eye.  A  wooden  thimble. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  279 

Bumkin.  or  boomkin.  A  short  boom  fitted  to  the  bows  of  a  ship 
for  the  purpose  of  hauling  down  the  fore  tack  to  •  it  is  supported 
on  each  side  by  a  shroud. 

Bunt.  The  middle  part  of  a  square-sail,  also  the  fore  leech  of  a 
quadrangular  staysail. 

Buntlines.  Ropes  attached  to  the  foot  of  a  square-sail,  to  haul 
it  up. 

Burton  pendants.  The  first  piece  of  rigging  which  goes  ovei 
the  topmast-head,  to  which  is  hooked  a  tackle  to  set  up  the  top- 
mast-shrouds. 

Bush.  Metal  in  the  sheaves  of  blocks  which  have  iron  pins. 

Butt-end.  The  end  of  a  plank  in  a  ship's  side. 

Buttock.  That  part  of  a  ship's  hull  under  the  stern,  between 
the  water-line  and  wing- transom. 

By  the  board.  Over  the  side.  A  mast  is  said  to  go  by  the 
6oard  when  it  is  carried  or  shot  away  just  above  the  deck. 

By  the  head.  When  a  ship  is  deeper  in  the  water  forward  than 
aft. 

By  the  stern.  The  reverse  of  by  the  head. 

By  the  wind.  When  a  ship  is  as  near  to  the  wind  as  her  head 
can  lie,  with  the  sails  filled. 

Cabin.  A  room  or  apartment ;  also  a  bed  place. 

Cable.  A  large  rope  by  which  the  ship  is  secured  to  the  anchor. 
Cables  take  their  names  from  the  anchor  to  which  they  belong ; 
as  the  sheet-cable,  the  best  bower-cable,  &c.  They  are  generally 
120  fathoms  in  length. 

To  bitt  the  cable.  (See  Bitts.) 

To  heave  in  the  cable.  To  pull  it  into  the  ship  by  the  windlass 
or  capstan. 

To  pay  out  the  cable.  To  pass  it  out  of  the  hawse-hole. 

To  veer  away  the  cable.  To  slacken  it  so  that  it  may  run  out, 
as  in  paying  out. 

To  serve  the  cable.  To  wrap  it  round  with  rope,  plait,  or  horse- 
hide,  to  keep  it  from  chafing. 

To  slip  the  cable.  To  let  it  run  clear  out. 

Cable  tier.  That  part  of  the  orlop-deck  where  the  cables  are 
soiled. 

To  coll  the  cable.  To  lay  it  on  the  deck  in  a  circular  form. 


280  THE  KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

Caboose.  The  place  where  the  victuals  are  dressed  in  mer 
chantmen. 

Call.  A  silver  pipe  or  whistle  used  by  the  boatswain  and  his 
mates,  by  the  sounding  of  which  they  call  up  the  hands,  direct 
them  to  haul,  to  veer,  to  belay,  &c.,  &c. 

Canted.  Anything  turned  from  its  square  position. 

Canvass.  Strong  cloth,  of  which  the  sails  are  made. 

Cap.  A  block  of  wood  which  secures  the  topmast  to  the  lower 
mast. 

Capsize.  To  turn  over. 

Capstan.  A  machine  for  drawing  up  the  anchor  by  .he  mes- 
senger, which  is  taken  round  it  and  applied  to  the  cable  by  the 
nippers. 

Careening.  Heaving  a  vessel  down  on  one  side,  to  clean  01 
repair  her  bottom. 

Carrick  bend.  A  kind  of  knot. 

Cast.  To  pay  a  ship's  head  off  by  backing  the  head  sails  wheu 
heaving  up  the  anchor,  so  as  to  bring  the  wind  on  the  side  required. 

Cat-block.  A  large,  double  or  threefold  block,  used  for  drawing 
the  anchor  up  to  the  cat  head. 

Cat-head.  A  large  piece  of  timber  or  crane,  projecting  over  the 
bow,  for  drawing  up  the  anchor  clear  from  the  ship's  side. 

Cat-harpings.  Short  legs  of  rope  seized  to  the  upper  part  of  the 
lower  shrouds  and  futtock-staves,  to  keep  them  from  bulging  out 
by  the  strain  of  the  futtock-shrouds,  and  to  permit  the  bracing 
up  of  the  lower  yards. 

Cafs-paw.  A  light  air,  perceived  by  its  effect  upon  the  water, 
but  not  durable  ;  also  a  twist  made  on  tne  bight  of  a  rope. 

To  Caulk.  To  drive  oakum  into  the  seams  of  the  sides,  decks,  &c. 

Chains.  Links  of  iron  bolted  to  the  ship's  sides,  having  dead- 
eyes  in  the  upper  ends,  to  which  the  shrouds  are  connected  by  the 
lanyards. 

Channels.  Strong,  broad  planks,  bolted  to  the  sides  to  keep  the 
dead-eyes  in  the  chains  from  the  side,  to  spread  the  rigging 
farther  out. 

Chapeling.  A  ship  is  said  to  build  a  chapel,  when  by  neglect 
in  light  winds  she  turns  round  so  as  to  bring  the  wind  on  the 
same  part  it  was  before  she  moved. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 

Chase.  A  ship  pursued  by  another. 
Bow-chase.  A  gun  in  the  fore  part  of  the  ship. 
Stern-chase.  A  gun  pointing  astern  in  the  after  part  of  the  ship 
To  chase.  To  pursue  ;  to  follow. 
To  cheer.  To  huzza.     What  cheer-ho  !  a  salutation. 
Chock-a-block.  (See  block  and  block.) 
To  clap  on.  To  make  fast ;  as,  clap  on  the  stoppers,  &c. 
To  claw  off.  To  beat  to  windward  from  a  lee-shore 
Cleats.  Pieces  of  wood  to  fasten  ropes  to. 
Close-hauled.  Asanighthewind  as  a  ship  can  lie. 
Club-hauling.  Tacking  by  means  of  an  anchor. 
Clues  or  Clews.  The  lower  corners  of  the  square  sails. 
Coamings.  The  borders  of  the  hatchways  which  are  raised 
above  the  deck. 

Colling.  Laying  a  rope  down  in  a  circular  form. 
Companion.  A  wooden  covering  over  the  cabin  hatchway. 
Course.  The  point  of  the  compass  on  which  the  ship  sails  ;  the 
mainsail,  foresail  and  mizen  are  also  called  courses. 
Crab.  A  small  capstan. 

To  cun  the  ship.  To  direct  the  helmsman  how  to  steer. 
Cutwater.  The  knee  of  the  head. 
Davit.  A  crane  of  timber  used  for  fishing  the  anchors. 
Dead-eye.  A  block  with  three  holes  in,  to  receive  the  lanyard 
of  a  shroud  or  stay. 

Dog-vane.  A  small  vane  made  of  cork  and  feathers,  and  placed 
•.,a  the  weather  side  of  the  quarter  deck. 

Dolphin.  A  wreath  of  rope  placed  round  a  mast.  (See  Pudding.) 
To  Douse.  To  let  fly  the  halliards  of  a  topsail ;  to  lower  away 
briskly,  &c. 

Downhauler.  A  rope  to  pull  down  the  staysails,  topmast,  stud- 
dingsails,  &c. 

Drift.  Driving  to  leeward ;  driving  with  the  tide.     Drifts  are 
also  those  parts  where  the  rails  are  cut  off  an  end  with  scrolls. 
Driver.  A  large  sail  suspended  to  the  mizen-gaff. 
Dunnage.  Wood,  &c.  laid  at  the  bottom  of  a  ship  to  keep  the 
cargo  dry. 

Earings.  Small  ropes  to  make  fast  the  upper  corners  of  square- 
sails,  &c. 


282  rHE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Ease-off.  To  siacken. 

End-for-end.  To  let  a  rope  or  cable  run  quite  out. 

End-on.  When  a  ship's  bows  and  head  sails  are  only  eee/j. 

Ensign.  A  national  flag  worn  by  ships  at  their  gaff-ends. 

Fag-end.  The  end  of  a  rope  which  is  untwisted. 

Fake.  One  circle  of  a  coil  of  rope. 

Falling-ojf.  When  a  ship  moves  from  the  wind  farther  than 
she  ought. 

Fid.  A  tapered  piece  of  wood,  or  iron,  to  splice  ropes  with ; 
also  a  piece  of  wood  which  supports  one  mast  upon  the  trestle- 
trees  of  another. 

To  Fill.  To  brace  the  yards  so  that  the  wind  may  strike  the 
sails  on  their  after  surfaces. 

Flukes.  The  broad  parts  or  palms  of  the  anchors.  (See  Anchor.) 

Fore.  That  part  of  the  ship  nearest  to  the  head. 

Fore  and  aft.  The  lengtkway  of  the  ship,  or  in  the  direction 
of  the  keel. 

Fore-castle.  A  short  deck  in  the  fore  part  of  the  ship. 

Forging-ahead.  Forced  a-head  by  the  wind. 

Foul  hawse-  When  the  cables  are  twisted. 

To  founder.  To  sink. 

Full  and  by.  (See  close-hauled.) 

Furling.  Making  fast  the  sails  to  the  yards  by  the  gasketa. 

Gajf.  The  spar  or  yard,  to  which  the  mizen  of  a  ship,  or  the 
mainsail  of  a  brig  or  cutter  is  bent. 

Gang-way.  A  deck  reaching  from  the  quarter-deck  to  the  fore- 
castle ;  also  the  place  where  persons  enter  the  ship. 

Gasket.  A  piece  of  plat  to  fasten  the  sails  to  the  yard. 

Girt.  A  ship  is  girted  when  her  cables  are  too  tight,  which 
prevents  her  swinging. 

Goose-neck.  An  iron  hook  at  the  end  of  a  boom. 

Goose-wings.  The  outer  extremities  of  a  main  or  foresail, 
when  loose,  the  rest  of  it  being  furled. 

Goring.  Cutting  a  sail  obliquely. 

Gripe.  A  piece  of  timber  that  joins  the  keel  and  the  cut-water 
Griping.  When  a  ship  carries  her  helm  much  to  windward. 
Gunnel.  The  upper  part  of  a  ship's  side. 
Guy.  A  rope  to  steady  a  boom. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  283 

Gybing.  When  (by  the  wind  being  large),  it  is  necessary  to 
shift  the  boom  of  a  fore  and  aft  sail. 

Halliards.  Tackles  or  ropes  to  hoist  up  the  sails. 

To  Hand.  (The  same  as  to  furl.) 

Hatchway.  A  square  hole  in  the  deck,  which  communicates 
with  the  hold,  or  another  deck. 

To  Haul  To  pull. 

To  Hail.  To  call  out  to  another  ship. 

A  clear  Hawse.  When  the  cables  are  not  twisted. 

Afoul  Hawse.  When  the  cables  lie  across,  or  are  twisted. 

Hawse-holes.  The  holes  through  which  the  cables  pass. 

Hawser.  A  small  cable. 

To  Heel.  To  incline  to  one  side. 

Helm.  A  wooden  bar  put  through  the  head  of  a  rudder  ;  also 
railed  a  tiller. 

To  Hitch.  To  make  fast. 

Tlie  Hold.  The  lower  apartment  of  a  ship,  where  the  provisions 
and  goods  are  stowed. 

To  haul  Home.  To  pull  the  clew  of  a  sail,  &c.  as  far  as  it  will  go. 

Horse.  A  rope  made  fast  to  the  yard,  on  which  the  men  stand. 

Hull.  The  body  of  a  ship. 

Jewel-blocks.  Blocks  at  the  topsail-yard-arms  for  the  topmast- 
Btudding-sail  halliards, 

Jigger.  A  purchase  used  in  merchant  ships  to  hold  on  the  cable. 

Junk.  Pieces  of  old  cable,  out  of  which  mats,  gaskets,  &c.  are 
made.  (See  article  on  Junk.) 

Jury-masts.  Temporary  masts,  when  the  others  are  carried  or 
shot  away. 

Redding.  Old  rope  passed  round  the  cable  at  short  distances. 

Kink.  A  twist  or  turn  in  a  rope. 

To  Labor.  To  pitch  and  roll  heavily. 

Land-fall.  Discovering  the  land. 

Larboard.  The  left  side. 

Launch-ho.  To  let  go  the  top  rope  when  the  topmast  is  fldded 

Leeward.  That  point  which  the  wind  blows. 

Lee-lurch.  When  the  ship  rolls  to  leeward. 

Lee-tide.  When  the  wind  and  tide  are  the  same  way. 


rHE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Lizard.  A  small  piece  of  rope  with  a  thimble  spliced  into  a 
Larger  one. 

Looming.  The  appearance  of  a  distant  object ;  such  as  a  biiip. 
the  land,  &c. 

Lubber.  A  sailor  who  does  not  know  his  duty. 

Luff.  A  direction  to  the  steersman  to  put  the  helm  to  leeward. 

Luff-tackle.  A  large  tackle  consisting  of  a  double  and  single 
block. 

Lying  to.  (See  To  bring-to.) 

To  man  the  yards.  To  send  men  upon  them. 

To  moor.  To  secure  a  ship  by  more  than  one  cable. 

Moorings.  The  place  where  a  vessel  is  moored  ;  also  anchors 
tvith  chains  and  bridles,  laid  in  rivers  for  men-of-war  to  ride  by. 

Neap-tides.  Those  tides  which  happen  when  the  moon  is  in 
her  quarters,  and  are  not  so  high  as  the  Spring-tides. 

Neaped.  A  ship  is  said  to  be  neaped,  when  she  is  left  on  shore 
by  these  tides,  and  must  wait  for  the  next  Spring-tides. 

To  Near  the  land.  To  approach  the  shore. 

To  Near.  A  direction  to  the  helmsman  to  put  the  helm  little 
"  a-weather ;  "  to  keep  the  sails  full ;  to  let  her  come  no  nearer  to 
the  wind. 

Nippers.  Plaiting  or  selvagees,  to  bind  the  cable  to  the  mes- 
senger. 

Off-and-on.  Coming  near  the  land  on  one  tack,  and  leaving  it 
on  another. 

Offing.  Out  to  sea  from  the  land. 

Orlop-deck.  The  lowest  deck  in  the  ship,  lying  on  the  beams 
of  the  hold.  The  place  where  the  cables  are  coiled,  and  where 
other  stores  are  kepi. 

Overboard.  Out  of  the  ship. 

Overhauling.  To  haul  a  fall  of  rope  through  a  block  till  it  is 
slack — also  examining  a  ship. 

Painter.  A  rope  by  which  a  boat  is  made  fast. 

To  Pass.  To  hand  anything  from  one  to  another,  or  to  place 
a  rope  or  lashing  round  the  yard,  &c. 

Pay.  To  rub  tar,  pitch,  or  anything,  with  a  brush. 

To  pay  off.  To  make  a  ship's  head  recede  from  the  wind,  bv 
packing  the  head-sails. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  285 

To  Peak  up.  To  raise  the  after  end  of  a  gaff. 

Plying.  Turning  to  windward. 

Pooping.  A  ship  is  said  to  be  pooped  when  she  is  struck  by  a 
heavy  sea,  on  the  stern  or  quarter. 

Port.  To  the  left  side.  This  term  is  used  for  the  helmsman 
to  put  the  helm  to  the  left,  instead  of  the  word  Larboard,  to 
make  a  distinction  from  the  affinity  of  sound  in  the  word  Star- 
board. 

Preventer.  Anything  for  temporary  security,  as  a  preventer- 
brace,  &c. 

Pendant,  or  Pennant.  A  sort  of  long,  narrow  banner. 

Pendant  (broad}.     A  sort  of  flag  terminating  in  two  points. 

Pendant.  The  name  of  a  piece  of  rope  applied  to  different 
objects  on  ship-board;  i.  e.,  fish-pendants,  rudder-pendants,  &c. 

Quarter.  That  part  of  a  ship's  side  between  the  main-chains 
and  the  stern. 

Racking  a  Fall.  Seizing  the  parts  of  a  tackle-fall  together  by 
cross-turns. 

Rake.  The  projection  of  a  ship  at  the  stem  and  stern,  beyond 
the  extent  of  the  keel — also  the  inclination  of  a  ship's  masts, 
either  forward  or  aft  from  a  perpendicular  line. 

Range  of  Cable.  A  sufficient  length  hauled  up  to  permit  the 
anchor  to  drop  to  the  bottom. 

To  Rattle  down  the  Shrouds.  To  fix  the  ratlings  on  them. 

To  Reef.  To  reduce  a  sail  by  tying  it  round  the  yard  with 
points. 

To  Reeve.  To  put  a  rope  through  a  block,  &c. 

To  Ride.  To  be  held  by  the  cable;  to  ride  easy,  is  when  a  ship 
does  not  labor  much ;  to  ride  hard,  is  when  a  chip  pitches  with 
violence. 

To  Rig.  To  fit  the  rigging  to  the  mast. 

To  Right.  A  ship  is  said  to  right  when  she  rises  to  her  up- 
i  ight  position,  after  being  laid  down  by  a  violent  squall. 

To  Right  the  Helm.  To  put  it  a-midships,  or  in  its  fore  and 
aft  position  parallel  to  the  keel. 

To  Round-in.  To  haul  in  a  brace,  &c.,  which  is  not  very  tight 

To  Rouse-in    To  haul  in  the  slack  part  of  the  cable. 


THE   KEDGE-ANCHOR  ; 

To  Run  down.  When  one  ship  sinks  another  by  running  ovei 
her. 

To  Scud.  To  sail  before  the  wind  in  a  storm. 

To  Scuttle  a  Ship.  To  make  holes  in  her  bottom  to  sink  her. 

To  Serve.  To  wind  anything  around  a  cable  or  rope,  to  pre- 
vent its  being  chafed. 

To  Seize.  To  make  fast  or  bind. 

To  Sheer.  To  go  in  and  out,  and  not  in  a  direct  course. 

To  Ship.  To  put  anything  on  board ;  to  ship  a  sea,  when  a 
sea  breaks  into  a  ship. 

To  Shiver.  To  make  the  sails  shake. 

The  Slack  of  a  Rope,  $*c.  That  part  which  hangs  lc/ose. 

To  Slip  a  Cable.  To  let  it  run  out  to  the  end. 

To  Slue.  To  turn  anything  about. 

To  Sound.  To  find  the  bottom  by  a  leaden  plummet. 

To  take  a  Spell.  To  be  in  turn  on  duty  at  the  lead,  the 
pump,  &c. 

To  Spill.  To  take  the  wind  out  of  the  sails  by  the  braces,  &c., 
in  order  ro  reef  or  to  hand  them. 

To  Splice.  To  join  two  ropes  together,  by  uniting  the  strands. 

Spoon-drift.  A  continued  flying  of  the  spray  and  waves  over 
the  surface  of  the  sea. 

To  Spring  a  Mast.  To  crack  or  split  it. 

A  Spring.  A  rope  made  fast  to  the  cable  at  the  bow  and 
taken  in  abaft,  in  order  to  expose  the  ship's  side  in  any  direction. 

Spring-tides.  The  highest  tides  at  the  full  and  change  of  the 
moon. 

To  Stand-on.  To  keep  in  the  course. 

To  Stand-by.  To  be  ready. 

Starboard.  The  right  side. 

To  Steer.  To  manage  a  ship  by  the  movement  of  the  helm. 

To  Stopper  the  Cable.  To  keep  it  from  running  out  by  fasten- 
ing short  ropes  to  it,  called  stoppers. 

Strand.  One  of  the  divisions  of  a  rope. 

Stranded  When  one  of  the  divisions  of  a  rope  is  broken— 
also  when  a  ship  is  run  on  shore,  so  that  she  cannot  be  got  off, 
Bhe  is  said  to  be  stranded. 

To  Stretch.  To  stand  on  different  tacks,  under  a  press  of  sail 


OR   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  28? 

To  Strike.  To  beat  against  the  bottom — also  to  lower  the  flag 
in  token  of  submission.  Lowering  the  topmasts,  is  commonly 
termed  striking  them. 

To  Surge  the  Messenger.  To  slack  it  suddenly. 

To  Sway.  To  hoist  up  the  yards  and  topmasts. 

To  Swing.  To  turn  a  ship  from  one  side  of  her  anchor  to 
another,  at  the  change  of  the  tide. 

To  Tack.  To  turn  a  ship  by  the  sails  and  rudder  against  (he 
wind. 

Taut.  A  corruption  of  tight. 

Taunt.  Long,  lofty. 

Tending.  The  movement  of  a  vessel  in  swinging  at  anchor. 

Tier.  The  place  where  cables  are  coiled. 

Traverse.  To  sail  on  different  courses.  When  a  rope  runs 
freely  through  a  thimble,  &c.,  it  is  said  to  traverse. 

Trying.  Laying-to  in  a  gale  of  wind  under  a  small  sail. 

Turning  to  Windward.  Tacking. 

Twice-laid  stuff.  Rope  made  from  the  yarns  of  a  cable,  &c., 
which  has  been  half-worn. 

To  Veer  and  Haul.  To  pull  a  rope,  and  then  slacken  it. 

To  Unbend.  To  cast  loose. 

To  Unmoor.  To  reduce  a  ship  to  a  single  anchor,  after  riding 
oy  two. 

To  Unreeve.  To  pull  a  rope  out  of  a  block. 

To  Unrig.  To  deprive  a  ship  of  her  rigging. 

To  Unship.  To  take  anything  from  the  place  in  which  it  was 
rixed. 

Waist  of  a  Ship.  The  part  between  the  main  and  fore-drifts ; 
also  a  term  sometimes  used  for  the  spare  or  waist-anchor,  from 
its  being  stowed  near  the  fore-drift,  or  fore  part  of  the  waist. 

Wake.  The  track  left  by  the  ship  on  the  water  which  she  haa 
jassed  over. 

Wales.  (See  Bends). 

To  Wear.  To  turn  a  ship  round  from  the  wind. 

To  Warp.  To  move  a  ship  by  hawsers. 

Watch.  A  division  of  the  ship's  company,  who  keep  the  deck 
for  a  certain  time.  One  is  called  starboard,  and  the  other  the 

larboard  watch. 

22 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Water-logged.  The  state  of  a  leaky  ship,  when  she  is  so  full 
of  water  as  to  be  heavy  and  unmanageable. 

Way  of  a  Ship.  Her  progress  through  the  water. 

To  Weather  a  Ship.  To  ge*  to  windward  of  her. 

A  Weather  Tide.  A  tide  or  stream  which  runs  to  windward. 

Weather- Beaten.  Anything  worn  or  damaged  by  bad  weather, 

To  Weigh.  To  heave  the  anchor  out  of  the  ground. 

To  Whip.  To  bind  the  end  of  a  rope  with  yarn  to  prevent  its 
nntwisting ;  also  to  hoist  anything  by  a  rope  which  is  rove 
through  a  single  block. 

Winds-eye.  That  point  from  which  the  wind  blows  in  a  di- 
rect line. 

Between  Wind  and  Water.  That  part  of  the  ship's  bottom 
which  is  just  at  the  surface  of  the  water,  or  what  is  called  the 
water-line. 

To  Wind  a  Boat,  $*c.  To  turn  it  round  from  its  original 
position. 

Wind- Rode.  When  a  ship  is  kept  astern,  &c.,  of  her  *\nohor, 
solely  by  the  wind. 

To  Windward.  Towards  that  point  from  which  the  wind 
blows. 

To  Work  to  Windward.  To  make  progress  against  the  wind 
by  tacking. 


PART  XI. 


TABLES 

RELATING   TO 

RIGGING,    BLOCKS,  SPARS    ANCHORS    CABLES,  <fcc. 


290 


ff 


THE  KEDGE-  ANCHOR; 


h 

nd 


To 

of 


•ureatjs 


ooooooooo      oooo 


OOO 


OOO 


0        *"* 


tal  Weigh 

of  Hem 


To 

H 


•jaaqg 


8  -     - 


I  s  |  2 

' 


gee 


Small 


Nut. 


Round 


Trend. 


A  Sketch  showing  the  Names  of  the  different  parts  of  an  Anchor 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


291 


493.— A  Table  Showing  the  Weight,  Size  and  Length 
of  Guns  and  Carriages,  U.  S.  Navy. 


SIZE  OF  GUNS. 

WEIGHT   OF 
GUN. 

WEIGHT   OF 
CARRIAGE. 

LENGTH  OF 
GUN. 

TOTAL. 

42  Pounder,  Long  Gun,    - 
3?         "           .          -     - 

cwt.  qre.  lla. 

70  0  0 
61  0  0 
51   0  0 
60  0  0 
50  0  0 
42  2  0 
61  2  0 
41  0  0 
41  0  0 
32  0  0 
51   0  0 
43  0  0 
49  0  0 
49  0  0 
49  0  0 
32  0  0 
38  0  0 
40  0  0 
36  0  0 
23  0  0 
18  0  0 
18  0  0 
150  0  0 
136  3  9 
63  0  0 
68  2  0 
64  0  0 
53  0  0 

27  0  0 
20  0  0 
21  0  0 
19  0  0 
13  0  0 
15  0  0 

cwt  qn.     Itn. 

820 

8  1     0 
9  1     0 

800 

630 
630 

520 
520 

430 
330 

720 

6  2  14 
520 
600 

ft.       in. 

9     1 
9     2 
8     4 
9     2 
8     4 
8     2 
9     2 
8     0 
7     0 
6     7 
9     0 
8     0 
9     4i 
8     4i 
8     4 
6     7 
8     0 
9     2 
7     7i 
6     8i 
6     1 
5   11 

8   10 
9     1 
8   10 
8     4 

4     3 
4     1 
4     2 

3     7 
3     9 

cwu  qra.  DM. 

59  2  0 

50  3  0 
70  3  0 

49  0  0 

55  3  (' 
55  3  0 

43  2  0 
45  2  «l 

27  3  0 
21  3  0 

34  2  0 

25  2  14 
18  2  0 
21  0  0 

32         «           

32         ti          .     .          .    . 

32         «           

30         u          

32         "           
30          u             

3^         "                .... 

32          " 

32         "           .... 

32         "           -          ... 

24        "         Long  Medium, 
24         "           - 

24           " 

24         "           ... 

18         «           
18         "           

18         ;< 

12        "          ... 

9         "          -    -         -    - 

9         «          

12  inch  Peace  Maker,   -     - 
10  inch  Shell  Gun,  -     -     - 
8         "         "           ... 

8         «         "           -    -     - 
8         "         "           -     -     - 
8         "         "           ... 

CARRONADES. 

42  Ponndpr 

32         «           

32         "           ... 

32         " 

24         «           
24         u           

292 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 


494.— A  Table  showing  the  Weight  of  Chain  Cable. 


150  Fathoms  of  2J  inch  weighs 


150 

tt 

2i 

150 

u 

2 

150 

u 

1-L& 

150 

u 

If 

150 

it 

If 

150 

it 

H* 

150 

a 

If 

150 

tt 

If 

150 

tt 

H 

150 

u 

H 

Pounds. 

45  249 
37  400 
37  372 
34  125 
32  225 
27  192 
25  350 
23  934 
17  204 
14  384 
11  921 


495. — A  Table  showing  how  many  Fathoms  make 
Pounds  of  4-strand  shroud-laid  Rope. 


41*6  fath.  0  feet  0  in.  of  1    inch 

313 

3   « 

0 

1^ 

216 

3   « 

0 

14 

1)9 

3   " 

0 

If 

124 

3   " 

0 

2 

96 

2    « 

0 

94 

77 

3    « 

0 

24 

55 

4   " 

0 

2| 

54 

0   " 

0 

3 

45 

5   " 

2 

3i 

39 

3   " 

0 

34 

34 

3    " 

9 

3! 

30 

1    " 

6 

4 

26 

5   « 

0 

44 

24 

0   « 

0 

44 

21 

3   « 

0 

4f 

19 

3   « 

0 

5 

17 

4   cc 

0 

5i 

16 

1    " 

0 

14 

4   » 

0 

5| 

13 

3   " 

0 

6 

12 

2   « 

0 

64 

11 

3   « 

0 

64 

10 

4   « 

0 

61 

9 

5   " 

0 

7 

9 

1    " 

0 

74 

8    "     4   " 

0    «      74 

in  size. 


8  fath.  3  feet  6  in.  of  7f  inches  in  size, 

7    ' 

3     "    6     "      8 

«< 

7    ' 

0    "    8    "      84 

«« 

6    ' 

4 

3 

8t 

c< 

6    ' 

2 

1 

« 

6    « 

0 

0 

9? 

cc 

5    « 

4 

0 

9k 

Cl 

5    < 

2 

0 

94 

tt 

5    ' 

0 

0 

91 

tt 

4    « 

5 

0 

10 

1C 

4    ' 

4 

1 

104 

1C 

4    « 

2 

1 

104 

(C 

4    ' 

1 

0 

(( 

4    ' 

0 

3 

11 

cc 

O 

5 

7 

111 

cc 

3    < 

4 

1 

H4 

cc 

3    «      3 

3 

111 

H 

3     "      2 

3 

12 

(C 

3    "      2 

1 

12^ 

cc 

3     «      2 

0 

12^- 

H 

3    «      1 

8 

12| 

cc 

2    «      5 

3 

13 

u 

2    «      4 

9 

134 

1C 

2    "      4 

0 

13J        "          " 

2    «      3 

'    6 

13f 

2    «      2 

<    4 

14          "          " 

OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


293 


496, — Weight  of  one  Foot  of  Bar  Iron  of  the  following 

forms. 


THICKNESS. 

SQUARE. 

OCTAGONAL. 

ROUND. 

THICKNESS. 

SQUARE. 

OCTAGONAL. 

ROUND. 

Inches. 

3 

founds. 

29.45 

Pounds. 

24.27 

Pounds. 

23.14 

laches. 
H 

Pounds. 

5.11 

Pounds. 

4.14 

Pounds 
4.02 

2i 

20.45 

16.85 

16.07 

U 

4.14 

3.41 

3.25 

8* 

16.56 

13.65 

12.02 

3.27 

2.70 

2.57 

2 

13.09 

10.79 

10.29 

I 

2.51 

2.06 

1.97 

H 

11.50 

9.48 

9.04 

1.84 

1.52 

1.45 

1! 

10.02 

8.26 

7.87 

I 

1.28 

1.05          1.00 

If 

8.64 

7.12 

6.79 

I 

.81 

.67 

.64 

li 

7.36 

6.07 

5.78 

1 

.46 

.38            .36 

ii 

6.19 

5.10 

4.86 

*        j       .17 

.17 

.16 

NOTE. — The  above  Table  shows  pounds  and  hundredths  of  pounds. 


497.— A  Table  showing  the  Weight  of  100  Fathoms  o/ 
Cable-laid  Rope,  from  2  to  26  inches. 

ALSO   A  COMPARATIVE  SIZE   OF  CHAIN. 


SIZE. 

THREADS. 

WEIGHT. 

CHAIN  II 
EQUAL.| 

SIZE. 

THREADS. 

WEIGHT. 

85  J 

11 

cwu  qrs.  Ibs. 

cwt  qrs.  Ibs. 

2 

27 

3  26 

14* 

1098 

40  1  12 

If 

2* 

36 

1  1  8 

15 

1170 

43  0  1 

3 

54 

1  3  25 

15* 

1251 

45  3  26 

1* 

3* 

72 

2  2  16 

16 

1332 

48  3  24 

99 

3  1  6 

1 

16* 

1413 

51  3  21 

4* 

108 

3  3  24 

17 

1503 

55  1  0 

If 

5 

135 

4  3  23 

17* 

1593 

58  2  6 

5* 

162 

5  3  22 

18 

1683 

61  3  13 

1| 

6 

189 

6  3  21 

18* 

1782 

65  2  1 

6* 

216 

7  3  21 

19 

1881 

69  0  17 

H 

7 

252 

9  1  1 

19*    1980 

72  3  4 

71 

288 

10  2  9 

20 

2088 

76  3  1 

8 

336      12  0  26 

I 

20* 

2187 

80  1  16 

8i 

378      13  3  15 

21 

2295 

84  1  14 

2 

9 

423 

15  2  25 

21* 

2403 

88  1  10 

9* 

468 

17  0  22 

5 

22 

2520 

92  2  16 

10 

522      19  0  21 

1 

22* 

2646 

97  I  3 

I0i 

576    .   21  0  19 

1 

23   ,   2703 

101  2  8 

2* 

'1 

630 

23  0  18 

23* 

2880 

105  3  14 

Hi 

684 

25  0  15 

U 

24 

3006 

110  2  1 

21 

12 

747 

27  1  23 

li 

24* 

3132 

115  0  16 

12* 

810 

29  3  3 

25 

3-235 

119  3  2 

2j 

13 

882 

32  1  19 

25* 

3393 

124  2  16 

13* 

954 

35  0  7 

H 

26 

3528 

129  2  22 

2| 

14 

1026 

37  2  24 

NOTE. — The  Size  Chain  are  set  down  opposite  their  respective  Hemp  Cable." 
is  near  as  can  be  calculated,  within  a  fraction. 


294 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


498.—  i  Table  for  showing*  the  Strength  of  Hemp  Cables ; 
their  Weight,  Size,  and  Number  of  Yarns  in  each. 


Size  iii  Inches, 

JVumber  of  Yarns. 

Weight  of  100 
Fathoms  in  Ibs. 

BREAKING  STRAIN  IN  TONS. 

Mea.-- 

Maximum. 

Minimum. 

26 

3528 

14112 

122.2 

105.9 

111.6 

25J 

3393 

13572 

117.5 

101.9 

107.3 

25 

3267 

13068 

113. 

98. 

103.2 

24£ 

3122 

12488 

114.4 

94.4 

102.5 

24 

3006 

12024 

115.7 

91. 

101.9 

23J 

2880 

11520 

117. 

87.6 

101.3 

23 

2763 

11052 

118.3 

84.2 

100.7 

82| 

2646 

10584 

119.5 

81. 

100,1 

22 

2529 

10116 

111.4 

77.9 

95. 

2li 

2412 

9648 

103.5 

74.9 

90.1 

21 

2304 

9216 

95.8 

72. 

85.3 

20i 

2196 

8784 

88.3 

69.2 

80.6 

20 

2088 

8352 

81. 

66.5 

76.1 

19| 

1980 

7920 

76.7 

62.1 

71.3 

19 

1881 

7524 

72.6 

57.9 

66.6 

18| 

1782 

7128 

68.6 

53.8 

62.1 

18 

1692 

6768 

64.7 

49.8 

57.7 

17| 

1597 

6388 

61. 

46. 

53.4 

17 

1512 

6048 

57.3 

44.9 

51. 

I6| 

1422 

5688 

53.9 

43.8 

48.7 

16 

1332 

5328 

50.5 

42.8 

46.5 

15J 

1251 

5004 

47.3 

41.9 

44.3 

15 

1179 

4716 

44.2 

41. 

42.3 

14* 

1098 

4392 

41.6 

38.4 

39.9 

14 

1026 

4104 

39.1 

36. 

37.6 

I3i 

954 

3816 

36.7 

33.6 

35.4 

13 

882 

3528 

34.4 

31.3 

33.3 

12* 

810 

3240 

32.2 

29.2 

31.3 

12 

756 

3024 

29.8 

26.6 

28.6 

H* 

693 

2772 

27.6 

24.2 

26.1 

11 

630 

2520 

25.5 

21.8 

23.7 

10J 

576 

2304 

23.4 

19.6 

21.4 

10 

522 

2088 

21.5 

17.5 

19.2 

9* 

468 

1872 

19. 

15.7 

17.1 

9 

432 

1728 

16.7 

14. 

15.2 

8| 

396 

1584 

14.6 

12.4 

13.4 

8 

315 

1260 

12.6 

10.9 

11.7 

7i 

288 

1152 

10.7 

9.5 

10.2 

7 

252 

1008 

9.3 

8.2 

8.8 

6J 

216 

864 

8.1 

7. 

7.5 

6 

189 

756 

7. 

5.8 

6.3 

5* 

162 

648 

5.9 

4.8 

5.3 

5 

135 

540 

5. 

3.9 

4.3 

*i 

108 

432 

4. 

3.1 

3.4 

4 

90 

360 

3.2 

2.5 

2.7 

3* 

69 

276 

2.4 

1.9 

2.1 

3 

54 

216 

1.8 

1.4 

1.5 

NOTE.— The  above  Table  shows  tons  and  hundredths  of  tans. 


OR  YOUNG    SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


295 


499. — A  Table  showing  the  Strength  of  Plain-laid  Rope 
of  three  Strands* 


Sue. 

.Number  of  Yarns 
in  Rope. 

"Weight  of  100 
Fathoms  in  Ibs. 

BREAKING   STRAIN   IN   TONS. 

Mean. 

Maximum. 

Minim  u  m  - 

12 

1173 

2940            45.5 

35. 

40. 

iii 

1077 

_ 

41.7 

32. 

36.7 

11 

987 

_ 

38.2 

29.3 

33.6 

i<H 

900 

_ 

34.9 

26.7 

30.7 

10 

816 

2136 

31.7 

24.2 

27.9 

9* 

738 

_ 

28.6 

21.8 

25.2 

9 

660 

1712 

25.7 

19.6 

22.6 

8* 

591 

_ 

23. 

17.5 

20.2 

8 

522 

1379 

20.4 

15.5 

18. 

7* 

459 

_ 

18. 

13.6 

15.8 

7 

399 

_ 

15.8 

11.8 

13.8 

6i 

345 

_ 

13.7 

10.2 

12. 

6 

294 

834 

11.75 

8.7 

10.3 

5J 

249 

712 

9.8 

7.3 

8.7 

5 

204 

_ 

8.2 

6.1 

7.2 

4* 

168 

413 

6.7 

5. 

5.9 

4 

132 

_ 

5.3 

4. 

4.7 

3£ 

102 

_ 

4.1 

3.2 

3.7 

3 

75 

203' 

3.1 

2.4 

2.8 

2t 

54 

_ 

2.2 

..8 

2.1 

2 

33 

_ 

1.5 

1.3 

1.4 

If 

27 

_ 

1.28 

1.13 

1.23 

H 

21 

_ 

.90 

.86 

.88 

J| 

15 

_ 

.60 

.53 

.56 

i* 

12 

_ 

.58 

.46 

.51 

2 

9 

_ 

.51 

.42 

.46 

•& 

6 

- 

.28 

.28 

.28 

NOTE. — The  above  Table  shows  tons  and  hundredth  of  tons. 


296 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


5OO. — A  Table  for  showing  the  Strength  of  Chain  Cable, 
as  tested  in  Fifteen  Fathom  Lengths. 


KJZC. 

Required  Testing 
Strain  in  Tons. 

Weight  of  100 
Fathoms  in  Iba. 

BREAKING   STRAIN   IN   TONS. 

Mean. 

Maximum. 

Minimum. 

2i 

91* 

27216 

130.3 

121.8 

125.9 

2* 

81J 

24276 

116.2 

108.6 

112.3 

2 

72 

21504 

103. 

96.25 

99.5 

li 

63} 

18900 

99. 

88. 

92.8 

If 

55* 

16464 

85.25 

65. 

74.1 

If 

47* 

14196 

75. 

59.5 

66.5 

If 

40i 

12096 

65.5 

54.5 

59.5 

If 

34 

10164 

53.6 

44.4 

48.5 

It 

28£ 

8400 

42.8 

35.3 

38.5 

i! 

22? 

6804 

33. 

27. 

29.5 

i 

18 

5376 

27.25 

22. 

24.3 

3. 

13* 

4116 

22.5 

20.3 

21.1 

iOi 

3024 

15. 

12.5 

13.5 

H 

8* 

2541 

12.3 

10.8 

11.4 

I 

7 

2100 

9.87 

9.37 

9.5 

iV 

5^ 

1701 

i- 

4i 

1344 

6.3 

5.9 

6. 

NOTE. — The  above  Table  shows  tons  and  hundredths  of  tons. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT. 


297 


.— A  Table  showing  the  Strength  of  Short  Round- 
linked  Bobstay,  Bowsprit-shroud  or  Crane  Chain,  with- 
out Studs,  such  as  is  used  for  Rigging,  &Ct 


Size. 

Weight  of  100 

Fathoms  in  Ibs. 

BREAKING   STRAIN    IN   TONS. 

Mean. 

Required  Te»tcf 
Strength. 

AI&xiiDum. 

Minimum. 

If 

15569 

75. 

68. 

73. 

31.6 

H 

_ 

64. 

58.2 

62.3 

27. 

i* 

_ 

59. 

53.8 

57.4 

24.7 

1  6 
If 

_ 

54.2 

49.6 

52.8 

22.6 

IJL 

49.7 

45.5 

48.4 

20.6 

1  6 
li 

_ 

45.3 

41.7 

44.1 

18.8 

iA 

__ 

41.2 

38. 

40.1 

17. 

H 

7481 

37.3 

34.5 

36.3 

15.3 

1-iV 

_ 

33.6 

31.2 

32.7 

13.6 

1 

6490 

30.1 

28.1 

29.3 

12. 

if 

5600 

26.8 

25.2 

26.1 

10.5 

i 

4500 

23.7 

22.5 

23.1 

9.1 

if 

4000 

20.9 

20. 

20.4 

7.9 

1  o 

* 

3449 

17.8 

16.6 

17.3 

6.8 

4 

44 

2900 

14.9 

13.5 

14.6 

5.6 

1  6 

f 

2538             12.3 

10.8 

12. 

4.6 

I 

iV 

2001             10. 

8.7 

9.7 

3.8 

1  6 

4 

1583               7.9 

6.9 

7.7 

3. 

2 
-A- 

1060              6. 

5.2 

5.9 

2.3 

1  6 

4 

827              4.4 

3.8 

4.3 

1.6 

8 

iV 

581               3. 

2.7 

3. 

1.1 

1  6 

i 

392 

1.9 

1.7 

1.9 

.75 

A 

1.1 

.97 

1. 

.42 

NOTE. — The  above  Table  shows  tons  and  hundredths  of  tons. 


298 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 


5O2. — Weight  of  Timber  in  a  green  and  seasoned  State. 


Description  of  Timber. 

Weight  of  Cubic  Foot. 

Green. 

Seasoned. 

11.8.        OZ. 

76  10 
59  .4 
63  12 
58  14 
60  12 
48     3 
32     0 
45     0 
48  12 
36  12 
43   15 
56     8 
60     0 
58     3 

Ibs.      oz. 

70     8 
54     0 
60  10 
52  15 
56     4 
36     0 
30     4 
34     4 
35     8 
30  11 
28  14 
37     5 
53     6 
50     0 

"Rprl  O-vV                                                 -      - 

flpdar 

WliitP  Pino 

TTlm     . 

WViito   \<sh 

NOTE. — The  average  weight  of  the  different  species  of  timber,  used 
in  building  and  equipping  ships-of-war  in  the  United  States'  Navy,  may 
be  reckoned  about  50  Ibs.  to  the  cubic  foot. 


5O3. — A   Table  of  Measures  and  Weights  of  different 

Substances. 


A  ton  of  water  (net  weight),  250  gallons.                                      Cub.  in.  Ibs.  oz. 

&  cubic  foot  of  Water  (specific  gravity) —  62    3 

"        "        Sea-water —  64    2 

"        "        New  York  Harbor-water —  63  14 

Cork —  15    0 

Tallow —  59    0 

Platina —  1218.75 

Copper —  486.75 

Lead —  709.05 

Steel —  489.08 

Cast  Iron -  450.45 

A  Bushel  of  Beans 100.  63. 

A  Ccrd  of  Wood  (stowage) 128.  1700. 

The  Weight  of  a  Man  and  his  Effects  is  from  2  to  2*  cwt. 

NOTE. — The  above  table  will  be  found  useful  in  making  calculations  of  stow- 

i£^t  and  also  in  keeping  the  ship  properly  trimmed. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 

504.— A  Table  of  Weight  of  Tarred  Cordage, 


299 


CABLES. 

cwt.  or.  Ibs. 

130  Fathoms  of  3  inch  weighs     2  3  20 

Fathom  of  24  inch  weighs      1 

1 

4 

130          «            2* 

« 

2 

0 

5 

22         «                 1 

0 

9 

130          '            2 

« 

1 

1 

G 

20 

0 

3 

IG 

130          '            1* 

« 

0 

3 

13 

19 

0 

3 

G 

130          <            1 

« 

0 

1 

20 

17 

0 

2 

16 

130          '             | 

M 

0 

1 

4 

16 

0 

2 

8 

15 

0 

1 

27 

HAWSERS  OF 

120  FATHOMS. 

100 
100 

14 

41 

<               38 

2 
3 

20 
1 

120  Fathoms  of  9*  inch  weighs 

22 

2 

0 

100 
100 
100 
100 
100 
100        ' 

13 
12* 
11* 
11 

'           10* 
«             10 

35 
32 
30 
26 
23 
21 

3 
3 
1 
1 

1 
0 

9 

17 
10 
19 
17 
3 

120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
120 

cs  00*00  i^"i>  £T 

« 
u 

(( 
«( 
(( 

20 
18 
16 
13 
12 
10 

1 
0 
0 
3 
0 
1 

17 
26 
6 
IG 
18 
19 

120 

6 

II 

9 

0 

12 

HAWSERS  OF  130  FATAOMS. 

120 

5* 

" 

7 

3 

7 

120 

5 

** 

G 

2 

1 

130  Fathoms  of  6*  inch  weighs  13 

1 

11 

120 

4* 

" 

5 

0 

23 

130                      6           <              11 

1 

13 

120 

4 

ti 

4 

0 

18 

130                      5*         '               9 

2 

2 

120 

3* 

" 

3 

1 

2-2 

130                      5           '                7 

3 

19 

120 

3 

M 

2 

2 

11 

130                      4*         <               6 

1 

22 

120 

2* 

» 

1 

3 

0 

130                      4           '               5 

0 

14 

120         "            2 

» 

1 

1 

4 

130                      3k         '               3 

3 

7 

6O5. — A  Table  showing  the  comparative   Strength  be- 
tween Iron  Chains  and  Hemp  Cables, 

Also  the  Size  required  agreeably  to   Tonnage,  with  the  Weight 
equal  to  Cable. 


SIZE  OF  CHAIN. 

Vessel's 
Tonnage. 

Size  of 
Rope. 

Weight  of 
Anchor. 

Proof 
required. 

Weight  pel 
Fathom. 

Five-sixteenths  of  an  inch  -    -    - 

_ 

2* 

_ 

I  ton. 

5* 

%  Three-eighths            "         ... 

— 

3* 

.. 

n 

8 

Seven-sixteenths         '         ... 

_ 

4 

— 

2k 

11 

One-half                     '         -    -    - 

20 

4| 

licwt. 

3 

14 

Nine-sixteenth            '         -    -    - 

30 

5i 

2 

4* 

18 

Five-eighths               '         ... 

40 

6* 

2k 

G 

24 

Eleven-sixteenths       '         ... 

50 

7 

3 

7£ 

28 

Three-quarters           '         ... 

60 

7| 

4 

9 

32 

Thirteen-sixteenths    '         -    -    - 

75 

Sk 

4i 

11 

38 

Seven-eighths             '         .    _    _ 

95 

91 

5J 

13 

44 

Fifteen-sixteenths       '         ... 

120 

10 

6£ 

15 

50 

One  inch.      -.    •                        .    . 

150 

10? 

g 

KC 

One  and  one-sixteenth  inch     -    - 

180 

L\Jf 

iH 

9 

19 

oo 
6'J 

One  and  one-eighth  inch    -    -    - 

210 

12 

10* 

21* 

70 

One  and  three-sixteenths  inch 

240 

12| 

12 

24 

78 

One  and  one-quarter  inch  -    -    - 

280 

13£ 

13* 

27 

86 

One  and  five-sixteenths  inch    -    - 

320 

14* 

15 

30 

96 

One  and  three-eighths  inch      -    - 

360 

15 

16k 

33 

108 

One  and  seven-sixteenths  inch     - 

400 

15| 

18 

36 

115 

One  and  one-haJ*  in"h  -    -    - 

450 

16 

20 

40 

125 

23 

300 


THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


301 


5 o 7. —Cordage  Table,  showing  the  Weight  of  one  Fathom 
Rope,  from  1  inch  to  24  inches  inclusive,  plain  laid 
3-strand,  such  as  used  for  running  rigging,  &c. 


Size  Rope.                                                  ibs.   oz. 

Size  Rope.                                                  Ibs.   02. 

1  inch  weighs-    -    -     -         .3$ 

9  inch  weighs-    -          -     18.1  Of 

1*     "       "       -    •     -    -         -5$ 
1*     "       «       .--    -        .81 

9*     "       "        ...     -     2o!l3i 

1-3.       H          "                                   -               114- 
14                                                                                      *  4 

9$     Ct       «       ....     21.141 

2       <•       «       -     -     -     -         .14$ 

10       «       «       ....     23.1* 

21  «     «     .  -  •  -     1.21 

101    n       it       ....     24.3* 

2*    «       "       ...     -       1.7 

10*     "       «       ....     25.7 

2$     «       «       ....       l.ll^ 

10$     «       "       ....     26.111 

3       «       «       -     -    -     -       2.1* 

11       "       «       ....     27.14* 

31     "       «       ....       2.7 

111       l:           U            ....       29.1* 

3*    "       «       ...     -       2.13* 

11*-    «       "       ....     30.9 

3$     «       "       ....       3.2f 

11$     "       "       ....     31.14 

4       <•       «       ....       3.11 

12       «       "       ....     33.3 

4*     "       "       ...     -       4.1$ 

12i     "       it       ....     34.9^ 

4*     "       "       -..-       4.10f 

12*-     "       "       ....     36. 

4$     «       «       ...-       5.3$ 

12$     "       "       ....     37.8 

5       «       "       -    ---       5.12} 

13       «       «       ..--     38.15 

51    "       "       -    -    -    -      6.51 

13i     «       "       ....     40.8t 

5*     "       "       ...-       7. 

13*     «       "       ....     42. 

5$    "       "       ..-.       7.9^ 

13$     «       "       ....     43.9  J- 

6  •     "       "       .     -    -     -       8.4$ 

14       «       "       ....     45.4$ 

6i     «       «       ...-       9. 

15       "       "       ....     52.0* 

6*     "       "       -     -     -     -       9.11$ 

16       «       "       -     -     -     -     59.5 

6$    «       "       ....     10.8 

17       «       "       .---     66.10 

7       «       "       ...     -     11.41 

18       "       «       ....     74.10 

71     "       "       ....     12.2 

19       "       "       ....     83.2 

7*     «       "       -    -     -     -     13.0$ 

20       «       «       .-..     92.11 

73.     "       "       -    -    -     -     13.  131 

21       "       «       .-..  102.1 

8*     "       "       -    -     -    -     14.12* 

22       «       «       -     -    -    -  112. 

8i     "       "       .-.     -     15.11* 

23       «       "       ....  122.3 

8*     "       «       ..-    -     16.10* 

24       "       "       .     -     -    -  134.6 

?J     '•<•       «       ....     17.10* 

/?wk  to  find  the  weight  of  any  sized  Rope.—  A  rope  of  1  inch  circumference  re- 
quires 486  fathoms  to  make  one  hundred  weight.    The  superficial  part  of  all  cir- 
cles being  in  proportion  to  the  square  of  their  diameters,  consequently  the  square 
of  their  circumference.    Therefore,  a  rope  of  1   inch  in  circumference,  whose 

square  is  one,  has  486  fathoms  to  a  cwt.  ;  and,  therefore,  486  being  divided  by 

the  sonare  of  the  circumference  of  any  rope,  the  quotient  will  give  the  number  of 

fathoms.    For  instance, 

9X9  =  81)480(6.     The  number  of  fathoms  in  a  cwt. 
486 

Rule  to  find  the  weight  of  120  fathoms  oj  any  sized  Cable. — Multiply  the  circum- 
ference by  the  circumference,  and  divide  the  product  by  4,  and  the  quo jent  will 
be  the  number  of  "^ts.  in  1*20  fathoms. 


302 


THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


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OR   YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


Madonna 


O  O  «C  O  Tf  •«**  CO 


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00  i-i  J>  '-' 


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THE   KE  DGE- ANCHOR  ; 


51O. — A  Table  showing  the  Quantity  of  Provisions,  Slop 
Clothing  and  Small  Stores,  for  200  men,  for  four  mouths, 
in  the  U,  S.  Navy, 


SMALL  STORES. 

Tobacco  (plugs)      .... 

Soap  (bars) 

Mustard  (bottles)  -  - 
Pepper  (bottles)  -  -  -  •  - 
Knives  (I  each")  -  -  -  - 
Spoons  (1  each)  ..... 
Fine  Combs  (1  each)  ... 
Coarse  Combs  (1  each)  -  - 
Tin  Pots  (1  each)  .... 
Tin  Pans  (1  each)  .... 
Scrubbing  Brushes  (1  each) 

Ribbon  (pieces) 

Tape  (pieces) 

Needles  (papers)  -  -  -  - 
White  Thread  (pounds)  ~  - 
Blue  Thread  (pounds)  -  - 
Thimbles  (1  each)  .... 
Beeswax  (cakes)  .... 
Blacking  (boxes)'  ...  - 
Scissors  (1  pair  each)  -  -  - 
Shoe  Brushes  (1  pair  each)  - 
Mittens  (1  pair  each)  -  -  - 
Cotton  Handkerchiefs  -  - 

SLOP  CLOTHING. 
Mattresses  (1  each)  -    ... 
Blankets  (2  each)   -    -    -    - 


1,000 
800 
100 
100 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
100 
100 
100 
50 
50 
200 
100 
200 
200 
200 
200 
50 

200 
400 


Pea-jackets 100 

Trowsers  (1  pair  each)    -    -    -  200 

Duck  Frocks  (1  each)      -    -    -  200 

Duck  Trowsers  (2  pairs  each)  -  400 

White  Flannel  Shirts  (2  each)  -  400 

Blue  Flannel  Shirts  (2  each)     -  400 

Drawers  (2  pairs  each)    ...  400 

Hats  (1  each) 200 

Shoes  (1  pair  each)      .....  200 

Stockings  (2  pairs  each)  -    -    -  400 

Black  Handkerchiefs  (1  each)  -  200 

Boots  (1  pair  each)      ....  ^00 

PROVISIONS. 

Bread  (pounds) 22,320 

Beef  (pounds) 14,652 

Pork  (pounds) 10,914 

Flour  (pounds) 1,819 

Raisins  (pounds)     .....  910 

Tea  (pounds) 400 

Sugar  (pounds) 3,210 

Rice  (pounds') 3,636 

Beans  (pounds) 5,460 

Pickles  (pounds) 1,819 

Vinegar  (gallons) 222 

Spirits  (gallons) 750 

Allowing  per  cent  age  for  waste-. 


N.  B. — All  recruits,  when  received  on  board  of  receiving-ships  of  the  U.  S. 
Navy,  are  required  to  have  an  outfit  in  slop  clothinj-,  &e .,  of  one  blue  clcth  jacket, 
o  ne  pair  of  blue  cloth  trowsers,  2  duck  frocks,  one  pinr  of  clack  trowsers,  two  blue 
flannel  shirts,  one  pair  of  drawers,  one  hat,  one  pail  of  shoes,  two  pairs  of  stock- 
ings, one  black  silk  handkerchief,  two  pounds  of  tobacco,  two  pounds  of  soap,  one 
knife,  one  tin  pot,  pan  and  spoon ;  the  greater  part  of  which  they  have  when 
transferred  to  vessels  for  sea-service.  This  being  the  case,  there  is  no  necessity 
for  having  the  full  amount,  as  above  stated,  in  slops  and  small  stores  in  the  pur- 
ser's  department,  for  issue  in  the  course  of  four  months. 


QUANTITY   OF  WATER  FOR   EACH   CLASS. 

Ships  of  the  Line— Three  Decks,  110,000  gallons ;  Two  Decks 
—1st  Class,  82,000  gals. ;  2d  Class,  78,000  gals. ;  Razees,  55,000 
gals. ;  Frigates— 32  Pounder,  48,000  gals. ;  24  Pounder,  43,000 
gals. ;  18  Pounder,  34,900  gals. ;  Sloops— 32  Pounder,  21,000 
gals. ;  24  Pounder,  19,000  gals. ;  Sixteen  32  Ib.  Carronades, 
15,000  gals. ;  Brigs,  8,000  gals. ;  Brigantines  and  Schooners 
7,900  gals. ;  Steamers— 1st  Class,  23,500  gals. ;  2d  Class,  10,000 
gals.;  3d  Class,  5,000  gals.;  Receiving  Vessels — Ships  of  the 
Line,  14,600  gals. 


OR  YOUNQ  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT. 


305 


511.— Exhibit  of  the  Navy  Ration, 

Showing  the  component  parts  for  each  day  of  the  week,  and  the  value  at 
which  they  are  to  be  computed,  under  the  2d}  kth  and  5lh  Sections  of 
the  Act  of  Congress,  "  To  establish  and  regulate  the  Navy  Ration,"  ap 
proved  29th  August,  1842. 


Days  of  the  Week. 

Pounds. 

Ounces* 

Pints. 

1 

1 

j 
i 

£ 
i 

.i 

K 

1  Raisins  or 
dried  fruits. 

s| 

1! 

0.0 

i 

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| 

14 
14 
14 
14 
14 
14 
14 

f. 

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Either. 

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1 
1 

3 

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2 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
9 

i 
i 
i 

i 
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t 

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1 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

2 

2 

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Monday  ------ 

1 

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1 

1 

4 

1 
1 

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£ 

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Priil  a  v     "                              ,      _      . 

2 

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Weekly  Quantity      -    -    - 

1 

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14 

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4 

4 

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VALUATION   OF  THE  WEEKLY  QJJANTITY,  &c. 


14 

? 

4 


U 


3  pounds  of  Pork 

Beef 

Flour 

Rice 

Raisins,  &c.     - 
,  Pickles,  &c.      - 

98  ounces  of  Bread       -        -        -    4 

Sugar       ...    8 

Tea     ) 

Coffee  >  of  same  val.    80 

Cocoa  ) 

Butter      -        -        -  23 

Cheese     -        -        -  16 
14  pints  of  Beans       -        -        -  24 

Molasses          -        -  64 

Vinegar  -        -        -  20 

Spirits     -        -        -  64 


7|  cents  per  pound, 

6 

4  cc          u 

3 

13  "          " 

12* 


gallon 


Averaging  20  cents  per  day,  or  weekly  - 


-  22§  cents. 

-  24      « 
.      4      « 

-  3      « 


8! 


-  4 

-  4J 

-  If 

-  14 

$1.40 


THE  foregoing  exhibit  of  the  component  parts,  &c.,  of  the  Navy  Ra- 
tion, has  been  compiled  in  pursuance  of  the  act  of  Congress,  and  will 
be  strictly  observed  by  commanders  of  vessels  and  by  pursers,  as  a 
regulation  of  this  Department,  prescribing  the  daily  issue  of  provisions, 
and  the  valuation  at  which  they  are  to  be  commuted.  All  persons 
"  attached  to  vessels  for  sea -service,"  are  entitled  individually  to  one 
ration  per  day. 

Every  commissioned  or  warrant-officer,  of,  or  over,  twenty-one  years 
of  age,  may,  at  his  option,  commute  the  entire  ration,  or  only  the  spirit 


306  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

portion  of  it :  provided  the  commutation,  in  either  case,  be  made  foi 
not  less  than  three  consecutive  months.  And  every  other  person,  of 
the  above-named  age,  entitled  to  a  ration,  may  commute  the  spirit 
component,  under  the  limitation  of  time,  unless  sooner  detached,  or 
entitled  to  a  discharge. 

No  officer  or  other  person,  under  twenty-one  years  of  age,  shall  be 
permitted  to  draw  the  spirit  part  of  his  ration.  Its  value  in  money, 
as  estimated  by  the  foregoing  table,  will  be  credited  to  him  by  the 
purser,  and  paid  whenever  ihe  commander  of  the  vessel,  to  which  such 
officer  or  person  may  belong,  shall  direct. 

The  messes  of  a  ship's  crew  may,  with  the  sanction  of  the  command- 
ing officer,  commute,  daily  or  weekly,  one  or  more  entire  rations,  for 
not  less  than  three  months  (unless  sooner  detached,  or  entitled  to  a 
discharge)  j  the  commutation  to  be  paid  by  the  purser,  at  such  times 
as  the  said  commanding  officer  shall  deem  fit. 

Pursers  having  the  delivery  of  rations,  will  make  out  and  transmit, 
monthly  and  otherwise,  by  the  earliest  opportunities,  to  the  Bureau  of 
Provisions  and  Clothing  of  this  Department,  abstracts  of  provisions, 
agreeably  to  such  forms  as  may  be  furnished  to  them  from  that  bureau, 
approved  by  the  Second  Comptroller  of  the  Treasury ;  their  provision 
accounts,  as  heretofore,  will  be  rendered  to  the  Fourth  Auditor's 
office. 

A.  P.  UPSHUR,  Secretary  of  the  Navy. 


AN   ACT   TO   ESTABLISH  AND  REGULATE  THE  NAVY 

RATION. 

SEC.  1.  .Be  it  enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of 
the  United  States  of  America,  in  Congress  assembled.  That  the  navy 
ration  shall  consist  of  the  following  daily  allowance  of  provisions  for 
each  person: — One  pound  of  salted  pork,  with  half  a  pint  of  peas  or 
beans ;  or  one  pound  of  salted  beef,  with  half  a  pound  of  flour,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  raisins,  dried  apples,  or  other  dried  fruits  ;  or 
one  pound  of  salt  beef,  with  half  a  pound  of  rice,  two  ounces  of  butter, 
and  two  ounces  of  cheese  ;  together  with  fourteen  ounces  of  biscuit, 
one  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  tea,  or  one  ounce  of  coffee,  or  one  ounce  of 
cocoa,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and  one  gill  of  spirits ;  and  of  a  weekly 
allowance  of  half  a  pound  of  pickles  or  cranberries,  half  a  pint  of  molas- 
ses, and  half  a  pint  of  vinegar. 

SEC.  2.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  fresh  meat  may  be  substituted 
for  salt  beef  or  pork,  and  vegetables  or  sauer-kraut  for  other  articles 
usually  issued  with  the  salted  meats,  allowing  one  and  a  quarter  pounds 
of  fresh  meat  for  one  pound  of  salted  beef  or  pork,  and  regulating  the 
quantity  of  vegetables  or  sauer-kraut,  so  as  to  equal  the  value  of  those 
articles  for  which  they  may  be  substituted. 

SEC.  3.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That,  should  it  be  necessary  to  vary 
the  above  described  daily  allowance,  it  shall  be  lawful  to  substitute  one 
pound  of  soft  bread,  or  one  pound  of  flour,  or  half  a  pound  of  rice,  for 


OR  YOUNG   SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  307 

fourteen  ounces  of  biscuit ;  half  a  pint  of  wine  for  a  gill  of  spirits; 
half  a  pound  of  rice  for  half  a  pint  of  peas  or  beans ;  half  a  pint  of 
beans  or  peas  for  half  a  pound  of  rice.  When  it  may  be  deemed  ex- 
pedient by  the  President  of  the  United  States.  Secretary  of  the  Navy, 
commander  of  a  fleet  or  squadron,  or  a  single  ship,  when  not  acting 
under  the  authority  of  another  officer  on  foreign  service,  the  articles 
of  butter,  cheese,  raisins,  dried  apples  (or  other  dried  fruits),  pickles 
and  molasses  may  be  substituted  for  each  other  and  for  spirits  ;  pro- 
vided the  article  substituted  shall  not  exceed  in  value  the  article  for 
which  it  may  be  issued,  according  to  the  scale  of  prices  which  is  or 
may  be  established  for  the  same. 

SEC.  4.  And  be  it  further  enacted.  That  in  cases  of  necessity  the  daily 
allowance  of  provisions  may  be  diminished  or  varied,  by  the  discretion 
of  the  senior  officer  present  in  command  ;  but  payment  shall  be  made 
to  the  persons  whose  allowance  shall  be  thus  diminished,  according  to 
the  scale  of  prices  which  is  or  may  be  established  for  the  same ;  but  a 
commander,  who  shall  thus  make  a  diminution  or  variation,  shall  report 
to  his  commanding  officer,  or  to  the  Navy  Department,  the  necessity 
for  the  same,  and  give  to  the  purser  written  orders,  specifying  particu- 
larly the  diminution  or  reduction  which  is  to  be  made. 

SEC.  5.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  no  commissioned  officer,  or 
midshipman,  or  any  person  under  twenty-one  years  of  age,  shall  be 
allowed  to  draw  the  spirit  part  of  the  daily  ration  ;  and  all  other  per- 
sons shall  be  permitted  to  relinquish  that  Dart  of  their  ration,  under 
such  restrictions  as  the  President  of  the  United  States  may  autho- 
rize ;  and  to  every  person  who,  by  this  section,  is  prohibited  from 
drawing,  or  who  may  relinquish,  the  spirit  part  of  his  ration,  there 
shall  be  paid,  in  lieu  thereof,  the  value  of  the  same  in  money,  accord- 
ing to  the  prices  which  are  or  may  be  established  for  the  same. 

SEC.  6.  And  be  it  further  enacted,  That  the  provisions  of  this  act  shall 
go  into  effect,  in  the  United  States,  on  the  first  day  of  the  succeeding 
quarter  after  it  becomes  a  law ;  and  in  vessels  abroad,  on  the  first  day 
of  the  succeeding  quarter  after  its  official  receipt ;  and  any  acts,  01 
parts  of  acts,  which  may  be  contrary  to,  or  inconsistent  with,  the  pro- 
visions of  this  act,  shall  be  and  are  hereby  repealed. 


BERTH-DECK,    OR    SAILORS7    MESS-TABLE. 


308 


I'HE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


512.-TABLE 

For  finding  the  Distance  of  an  Object  by  two  Bearings,  ami 
the  Distance  run  between  them. 


1"=°? 

Ill 

DIFFERENCE  BETWEEN  THE  COURSE  AND  FIRST  BEARING  IN  POINTS 

111 

OF  THE  COMPASS. 

!COM 

2 

^ 

3 

34 

4 

44 

5 

54 

6 

64 

7 

74 

8 

«4 

9   |  9* 

10 

54 

I 

4 

1.00 

44 

0.81 

1.23 

5 

0.69 

1.00 

1.45 

54 

0.60 

0.85 

1.17 

1.66 

6 

0.54 

0.74 

1.00 

1.35 

1.85 

64 

0.49 

0.67 

0.88 

1.14 

1.50 

2.02 

7 

0.46 

0.61 

0.79 

1.00 

1.27 

1.64 

2.17 

7J 

0.43 

0.57 

0.72 

0.90 

1.11 

1.39 

1.77 

2.30 

8 

0.41 

0.53 

0.67 

0.82 

1.00 

1.22 

1.50 

1.87 

2.41 

84 

0.40 

0.51 

0.63 

0.76 

0.92 

1.09 

1.31 

1.58 

1.96 

2.50 

9 

0.39 

0.49 

0.60 

0.72 

0.85 

1.00 

1.18 

1.39 

1.66 

2.03 

2.56 

94 

0.38 

0.48 

0.58 

0.69 

0.80 

0.93 

1.08 

1.25 

1.46 

1.72 

2.08 

2.60 

1   10 

0.38 

0.47 

0.57 

0.66 

0.76 

0.88 

1.00 

1.14 

1.31 

1.51 

1.76 

2.11 

2.61 

104 

0.38 

0.47 

0.56 

0.65 

0.74 

0.84 

0.94 

1.06 

1.19 

1.35 

1.55 

1.79 

2.12 

2.60 

11 

114 
12 

0.39 
0.40 
0.41 

0.47 
0.48 
0.49 

0.56 
0.56 
0.57 

0.64 
0.63 
0.64 

0.72 
0.71 
0.71 

0.81 
0.79 

0.78 

0.90 
0.87 
0.85 

1.00 
0.95 
0.92 

1.11 
1.05 
1.00 

1.24 
1.15 

1.08 

1.39 
1.27 
1.18 

1.57 
1.41 
1.29 

1.80 
1.58 
1.41 

2.11 
1.79 
1.57 

2.56 
2.08 
1.76 

2.50 
2.03 

2.41 

124 

0.43 

0.51 

0.58(0.65 

0.71 

0.77 

0.830.90 

0.97 

1.03 

1.11 

1.20 

1.291.41 

1.55il.72 

1.96 

The  Table  is  to  be  entered  with  the  number  of  points  con- 
tained between  the  ships  head  and  the  first  bearing  of  the  object, 
at  the  top,  and  with  the  number  of  points,  reckoned  the  same 


way,  between  the  ship's  head  and  the  second 


bearing,  at 


the 


side ;  the  number  in  the  table  at  the  intersection  of  the  two  col- 
umns being  multiplied  by  the  distance  run,  is  the  distance  from 
the  object  at  the  time  the  last  bearing  was  taken. 

EXAMPLE. — A  Light-house  bears  N.  W.,  and  after  running 
W.  by  S.  8  miles,  it  bears  N.  N.  E. ;  the  number  of  points  be- 
tween W.  by  S.  and  N.  W.  is  5,  and  that  between  W.  by  S.  and 
N.  N.  E.  is  11 ;  then  under  5  points  at  the  top,  and  abreast  of  11 
points  at  the  side,  stands  the  number  0.9,  which  being  multi- 
plied by  8  gives  7.2  miles,  the  distance  at  the  time  of  the  last 
(N.  N.  E.)  bearing. 


If  the  bearings  are  observed  to  quarter  points,  the  numbers 
ma)'  be  taken  out  accordingly ;  this  needs  no  example. 


OS.   YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  309 

513.— Dimensions  of  the  Masts  and  Spars  of  the  U,  Si 
Steam-ship  Princeton. 

Above  Deck. 

49  ft.  2  in.     Fore-mast,    70  ft.      Head,    12  ft.  Diameter,  24£  in 

53  ft.  Main-mast,  74  ft.  "       12  ft.  "         25    in, 

46  ft.  8  in.     Mizen-mast,  54  ft.  6  in.  "       10  ft.  "         18i  in. 

Fore  and  Main  Top-mast,  42  ft.  "         7  ft.  6  in.    Cap,         14-J-  in. 

Do.  Top-gallant  M.,  22  ft.  Hoist,  14  ft.  6  in.  Royal  9  ft.  Pole-cap,  8-J-  in. 
Mizen  Top-mast,      33  ft.  Head,  5  ft.  6  in.  Cap,         1 1    in. 

"      Top-gallant  Mast,  18  ft.    Hoist,  12  ft.    Royal,  7  ft.  Pole,  6f  in. 


Fore  and  Main  Yard,     -     -     - 
«         «        Top  Yard,-     - 

Ft.  In. 

68.       -.-. 
54.       .... 

FL  In.                 Inch. 

Arms,  4.    Sling,  15£ 
"      4.6      «     13 

"        Top-gal't  Yard, 
"        Royal  Yard,   - 

37.       .... 
25.6     -     -    -    - 

«      2.6       «       7* 
«      1.3       "       5$ 

Mizen  Yard,     - 

54.       .... 

"      4.6       "     13 

«       Top  Yard,      ...     - 

39.       -     -    -    - 

"      3.6       "       9 

"       Top-gallant  Yard,    -     - 

26.6     -     -    -    - 

"      1.9       "       6i 

"       Royal  Yard,  -     -    -     - 

19.       ---     - 

<•      1.         ".4 

Bowsprit  (Outboard),    -     -     - 

25.6     -..- 

-    Bed,    25 

Jib-boom             "           -     -    - 

24.     Inb'd,  20  ft. 

Head,  3.    Cap,    13$ 

Flying  "             «           ... 

19.       .... 

"      5.       "         8 

Spanker-boom,      .     -     -    .     . 

47.6     -     -    -     - 

"      2.    Slings,  9 

Spanker-gaff,    

39.       -..- 

"      8.         «       7 

Swinging-booms    ----- 

45.6     .... 

...            "8 

Top-mast  Steering-sail  Booms, 

35.       .... 

...           "7 

T.  G.  M. 

28.       -..- 

...            "5$ 

Royal                                  " 

19.       --.. 

...           «       3| 

Lower                             Yards, 

17.       -    -    -    - 

...            "5 

Top-mast             "               " 

21.       -    -     -    - 

...           "5 

T.  G.  M.             "              " 

16.       .... 

...           «       4 

Royal                                " 

10.       --.- 

--.           «       3 

Mizen  Try-sail  Mast,     -    -    - 

38.       .... 

•    -    -           «       7i 

Ft    In. 

The  Fore-mast  from  top  of  deck  to  top  cf  kelson  is  buried,     -  20.  4 

The  Main-mast         "             «             «             "           «              -  20.  7 

The  Mizen-mast       «             «             «             «           "              -  7.10 

Which  leaves  the  Fore-mast  just                    -                           -  69.  8 

And  the  Main-mast, 73.  7 

Length  between  perpendiculars,    -                                             .  156. 

Length  of  Spar-deck, 165.  2 

Length  of  Keel,                    -                  142.  9 

Extreme  breadth  of  Beam, 30. 

Depth  of  Hold  to  Spar-deck,                  21.  8 

Dead  rise  at  half  breadth,     ...  2.  3 


THE  KEDGE-ANCHOR; 


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OR   YOUNG   SAILORS    ASSISTANT. 


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312   5 15.- -A  Table  showing  the  Dimensions  of  the  Masts 

FRENCH   SHIPS   AS   PUBLISHED,  AND 


Three-deck  Ships. 

Two-deck  Ships. 

AMERICAN. 

ENGLISH. 

FRENCH. 

First  Class. 

AMERICAN. 

ENGLISH. 

i 

i 

i 

| 

i 

1 

i 

1 

i 

I 

J 

3 

1 

Q 

3 

5 

3 

1 

3 

Q 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch 

Ft  In. 

Inch 

Ft  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch 

Length  of  Lower-deck  -    - 

_ 

_ 

205. 

_ 

206.6 

_ 

_ 

— 

193.10 

_ 

Breadth  Extreme  -    -    - 

- 

— 

54.6 

- 

59.6 

— 

— 

- 

51.5 

- 

Main  Mast  to  the  hound    - 

132. 

41, 

106.7 

41 

109.8 

41* 

124.6 

40. 

101.7 

39i 

Main  Mast  head  -    -    -    - 

22. 

_ 

20.7 

_ 

18.1 

20. 

_ 

19.8 

MainTop-mast  to  the  hou  jd 
Main  Top-mast  head     -    - 

70. 
12. 

21.5 

64.11 
10.1 

22 

68.5 
9.4 

23f 

70. 
12. 

21.5 

59.8 
9.7 

20| 

Main  Top-gallant  Mast  to 

thp  HnnnH 

41. 

12. 

33. 

1  O1 

35.2 

1  ^3. 

41 

12. 

30.5 

1  1  1 

Main     Top-gallant    Mast 

s 

5 

!(*• 

11  j 

„  -i  _ 

24. 

9.5 

23. 

iq  o 

24 

q  z. 

91  fi 

Fore  Mast  to  the  hound 

120. 

37. 

98.11 

38 

&«r*4B 

102.2 

39| 

<0%« 

115. 

S7«t) 

36.5 

10.1  .0 

92.6 

37 

Fore  Mast  head    -    -    .    - 

20. 

_ 

19.1 

_ 

17. 

18. 

_ 

18.6 

_ 

Fore  Top-mast  to  the  hound 
Fore  Top-Mast  head     -    - 

63. 
10.6 

21.5 

52.2 
9.2 

22 

62.10 

8.6 

23| 

63. 
10.6 

21.5 

53.10 

8.8 

20| 

Fore   Top-gallant  Mast  to 

0,76 

12. 

30.1 

Qfl  1  1 

. 

376 

12 

264 

in 

Fore     Top-gallant     Mast 

O  /.U 

OU.I  1 

* 

' 

' 

' 

ll/ 

22. 

871 

21. 

22. 

8.7J 

20. 

Mizen  Mast  to  the  hound  - 

110. 

<->.  i  2 

27. 

73.4 

25 

• 

76.7 

37i 

105. 

26.5 

71.2 

25! 

Mizen  Mast  head      -    -    - 

17. 

_ 

12.9 

_ 

11.8 

_ 

16. 

_ 

12.10 

MizenTop  mast  tothe  hound 
Mizen  Top-mast  head  -    - 

55. 
9. 

16.5 

46.6 
7.4 

14J 

48. 
6.4 

14f 

55. 
9. 

16.5 

43.9 

7. 

14 

Mizen  Top-gallant  Mast  to 

the  hound     —    ••    * 

33.6 

9.5 

22. 

Q  jl 

07  11 

Q  * 

33.6 

Q  ^ 

21  7 

Q  1 

Mizen  Top-gallant    Mast 

* 

&  i  .  1  1 

? 

J0J.«  4 

20. 

7. 

15. 

U1  1 

Qfl 

7 

17  fi 

24. 

109.3 

.  JL  1 

m1 

&\J» 

107  fi 

/. 

OQ  K 

i  /  .0 

Fore  Yard  ------ 

• 

100. 

23! 

22! 

. 

106.6 

251 

lv/  /  .O 

96. 

KftSf 

21.5 

89.9 

21  i 

Cross-Jack  Yard  -    -    -    - 

80. 

16. 

18.8 

92. 

m 

80. 

16. 

74.3 

16 

Main  Top-sail  Yard      -    - 

82. 

18. 

78.8 

16£ 

8-2.4 

17 

78. 

17.5 

74.3 

16 

Fore  Top-sail  Yard  -    -    - 

75. 

16. 

69. 

78.6 

17 

71. 

16. 

64.8 

13| 

Mizen  Top-sail  Yard    -    - 

52. 

11. 

52.6 

11 

60.8 

52. 

11. 

49. 

10J 

Main  Top-gallant  Yard    - 

5S, 

10. 

51.10 

10* 

54.4 

m 

52. 

10.5 

46. 

91 

Fore  Top-gallant  Yard 

48. 

9.5 

46.3 

91 

48.11 

9 

46. 

9.5 

38.10 

8 

Mizen  Top-ga.lant  Yard   - 

33. 

6. 

36.3 

7| 

42.7 

8* 

33. 

6.5 

34. 

7 

81. 

75.1 

37 

74.6 

40! 

78. 

71.11 

36 

Sprit-sail  Yard     -    -    -    - 

52. 

11, 

69. 

14| 

72.5 

16-L 

52. 

11. 

64.8 

13J 

Spanker  Boon.     -    -    -    - 

60.  '13. 

74.4 

14| 

_ 

_ 

60. 

13. 

70.2 

13J 

/~f_  Of 

QQ 

q 

f%P^  Q 

1  9l 

oo 

A  Q 

GO. 

fin. 

»7. 

Cap 

4fi  3 

qi 

fiM  1  1 

17 

fin 

• 

«U1 

141 

and  Yards  of  American,  English  and  French  Ships*    313 

REDUCED  TO  ENGLISH  MEASURE. 


Two-deck:  Ships. 


Frigates. 


1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

AMERICAN. 

ENGLISH. 

FRENCH. 

FRENCH. 

AMERICAN 

ENGLISH. 

FRENCH. 

1st  Class. 

3d  Class. 

5 

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j 

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Fu  In. 

Inch 

Fu  In. 

Inch. 

Fu  In. 

Inch 

Fu  In. 

i^I 

Fu  In. 

Inch. 

Fein 

Inch. 

Fu  In. 

Inch 

Fu  In- 

neb 

191.8 

_ 

_ 

_ 

176. 

— 

179.11 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

151.5 

_ 

151.2 

50. 

- 

- 

- 

47.6 

- 

47. 

- 

- 

- 

- 

— 

40.1 

— 

38.4 

105.5 

33} 

117. 

36.5 

93. 

36 

95.8 

36f 

105. 

34.6 

95. 

31.5 

77.6 

28 

81.2 

29} 

17. 

20. 

_ 

18. 

_ 

15.11 

18. 

_ 

16. 

_ 

15. 

— 

13.1 

65.5 

21! 

70. 

21.5 

56.2 

19} 

60.2 

20} 

63. 

19.3 

56. 

17. 

46.10 

16} 

52.10 

I7i 

9. 

10. 

- 

9.1 

9. 

9.7 

- 

9.6 

- 

7.6 

- 

7.11 

34.2 

11! 

41. 

12. 

29.0J 

11 

33. 

11} 

37.6 

11. 

33.6 

10. 

23.8 

9 

30.11 

101 

18.1 

- 

•24. 

9.5 

21. 

- 

13. 

- 

22. 

8.8 

20. 

6.6 

19. 

- 

17. 

95.11 

36? 

105. 

33. 

84.9 

88.5 

3gt 

95. 

31.5 

86. 

28. 

71.1 

25 

7-2.1 

265 

15.11 

18. 

_ 

16.6 

_ 

14.11 

_ 

16. 

_ 

14.6 

_ 

!?.9 

_ 

12.1 

59.11 

21! 

63. 

21.5 

50. 

_ 

57.11 

56. 

19.3 

51. 

17. 

41.6 

16} 

48.1 

17^ 

8.2 

10.6 

- 

8. 

- 

7. 

9.6 

- 

8.4 

- 

6.8 

7.2 

29.10 

I0i 

37.6 

12. 

25.3i 

9f 

29.10 

Hi 

33.6 

11. 

30. 

10. 

20.5 

7! 

27.8 

101 

\ 

15.11 

- 

22. 

8.7i 

19.6 

- 

10.7 

- 

20. 

7.5 

18. 

6.6 

17.6 

- 

14.11 

67.11 

•24| 

93. 

26. 

66.7 

23f 

57. 

19 

84. 

24. 

76. 

20. 

57. 

19 

57.6 

19} 

10.7 

16. 

_ 

11.1 

9.11 

_ 

12.4 

_ 

11. 

— 

9.11 

„ 

9.6 

46.5 

13! 

53. 

16. 

41.4 

13 

45.10 

13! 

46.4 

13.5 

41. 

12. 

35.6! 

Us 

38.5 

12! 

5.11 

5.9 

- 

6.8 

- 

5.4 

6.8 

- 

6. 

- 

5.8! 

- 

6.4 

29.10 

33.6 

9.5 

21.0| 

8 

29.7 

7f 

24.6 

8.5 

•21. 

6.5 

17.11J 

65 

21.4 

7| 

10.7 

- 

20. 

7. 

17. 

- 

9.6 

- 

16.6 

14. 

4.6 

15.6 

- 

10.7 

106.6 

26| 

105. 

23.5 

96.8 

22f 

97.11 

27! 

95. 

•20. 

86.6 

19. 

81.9 

18| 

85.2 

20! 

96.6 

90. 

21. 

84.8 

89.5 

•24§ 

84. 

18.5 

76. 

18. 

71.5 

L6| 

74.6 

17i 

96.9 

I8i 

80. 

16. 

70.6 

14f 

89.5 

66. 

14. 

65.1 

13. 

59. 

12] 

58.6 

12} 

79.10 

17 

77. 

17. 

70.6 

14! 

74.6 

15§ 

71.6 

16. 

65. 

15. 

59. 

12} 

61.9 

12* 

6-2.11 

15S 

67. 

15. 

61.6 

12j 

66. 

14r 

62. 

14.7 

57. 

13. 

53.4 

Hi 

54.4 

11} 

55.4 

91 

49. 

11.3 

46.1 

19f 

66. 

13! 

45. 

10. 

40. 

9. 

40.8 

8} 

47.11 

8} 

50. 

8} 

51. 

10.5 

45.10 

9} 

47.9 

7! 

45. 

9.5 

40. 

8. 

37.6 

7i 

40.5 

71 

44.8 

7i 

45. 

9.4 

40. 

8J 

4-2.7 

7|    41. 

9.    ,38. 

7.5 

32.11 

6} 

35.4 

6J 

38.4 

61 

32. 

7. 

32. 

6|   36.6 

30. 

6.    126. 

5.2 

28. 

5i 

30.10 

6f 

69.2 

37} 

72. 

61.6 

12! 

66. 

24| 

66. 

-     60. 

_ 

53.4 

Hi 

55.4 

271 

71.4  U6j 

49. 

10.5 

61.6 

12f 

64.11 

44.6 

10.    140. 

9. 

53.4 

Hi 

53.6 

HI 

48.11 

6|.  60. 

13. 

66. 

I2f 

47.11 

5! 

50. 

11.    45. 

10. 

55.8 

11 

- 

- 

33. 

9. 

50.2 

in 

- 

32. 

8.    30. 

7. 

4-2.5 

10 

56.5 

13| 

"Cap 
51.    16.3 

40. 

84 

53.2 

13} 

50. 

Cap. 

14.3  145. 

Cap. 

13. 

- 

_ 

,  58.6 

12| 

314 


THE   KEDGE-ANCHOR; 


5io.—  A  Table  showing  the  Complement  of  Officers  and  Crew  allowed  to  Vessels  of  each  Class,  U.S.N, 

Remarks. 

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318 


517. — A  Table  of  Spars,  &c.,  fof 


Names  of  the 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

THREE   DECKS. 

TWO    DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

different  Spars. 

4 

1 

1 

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neh 

\.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

"\.  in. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In. 

r»t    [n 

Inch. 

Ft.  lu 

Main  Mast    -    -    - 

32. 

12.7 

22. 

24.6 

10.2 

20. 

117. 

36.820. 

13. 

36.820. 

Main  Top-mast,  -    - 

70. 

21.5 

12. 

70. 

21.5 

12. 

70. 

21.512. 

70. 

21.5  12, 

Main    Top-gallant 

Mast      -    -    -    - 

35. 

12. 

_ 

35. 

12. 

-  ,  35. 

12. 

_ 

35. 

12. 

. 

Main  Royal  Mast  - 

23.6 

- 

- 

23.6 

_ 

- 

23.6 

_ 

_ 

23.6 

_ 

. 

Main  Flag  Pole      - 

9.1 

4. 

~ 

9.f 

4. 

- 

9.f 

4. 

- 

9.! 

4. 

- 

Fore  mast      -    -    - 

120. 

38.8 

20. 

115. 

36.8 

8. 

105. 

34. 

18. 

101.  |34. 

18. 

Fore  Top-mast  -    - 

63. 

21.5 

10.6 

63. 

21.5 

10.6 

63. 

21.5 

10.6 

63.   21.5 

10.6 

Fore    Top-gallant 

Mast      .... 

32. 

12. 

— 

32. 

12. 

_ 

32. 

12. 

_ 

32. 

12. 

_ 

*  ore  Royal  Mast    - 

21.4 

_ 

_ 

21.4 

_ 

_ 

21.4 

_ 

_ 

21.4 

_ 

Fore  Flag  Pole  -    - 

8.6 

4. 

- 

8.6 

4. 

- 

8.6 

4. 

- 

8.6 

Mizen  Mast  -    -    - 

110. 

27.5 

17. 

105. 

26.5 

16. 

98. 

26. 

16. 

94. 

26. 

16. 

Mizen  Top-mast    - 

55. 

15.8 

9. 

55. 

15.8 

9. 

53. 

15.3 

9. 

53. 

15.3 

9. 

Mizen    Top-gallant 

Mast     -    -    -    - 

29. 

9.8 

_ 

29. 

9.8 

_ 

29. 

9.8 

_ 

29. 

9.8 

_ 

Mizen  Royal  Mast 

19.4 

_ 

_ 

19.41  - 

_ 

19.4 

_ 

_ 

19.4 

_ 

Mizen  Flag  Pole    - 

7.9 

3.7 

- 

7.9 

3.7 

7.9 

3.7 

- 

7.9 

3.7 

- 

Yard 

Yard 

Yard 

Yad 

Arm 

Arm. 

Arm 

Arm 

Main  Yard    -    -    - 

110. 

26.4 

5. 

107.6125.7 

5. 

105. 

25.3 

5. 

105. 

25.3 

5. 

Main  Top-sail  Yard 

82. 

20.5 

7. 

78. 

19.5 

6.6 

77. 

19.2 

6.6 

77. 

19.2 

6.6 

Main    Top-gallant 

Yard     .... 

52. 

11.8 

2. 

52. 

11.8 

2. 

49. 

11.2 

2. 

49. 

11.2 

2. 

Main  Royal  Yard  - 

36. 

7.2 

1.6 

36. 

7.2 

1.6 

35.1 

7. 

1.6 

35.1 

7. 

1.6 

Fore  Yard      ... 

100. 

24. 

5. 

96. 

23. 

5. 

90. 

21.6 

4. 

90. 

21.6 

4. 

Fore  Top-sail  Yard 

75. 

18.8 

6.6 

71. 

17.8 

6. 

67. 

16.8 

5.6 

67. 

16.8 

5.6 

Fore    Top-gallant 

Yard      .... 

48. 

10.9 

2. 

46. 

10.7 

2. 

45. 

10.5 

2. 

45. 

10.5 

2. 

Fore  Royal  Yard    - 

33. 

6.6 

1.6 

33. 

6.6 

1.6 

30.5 

6.1 

1.3 

30.5 

6.1 

1.3 

Cross-jack  Yard     - 

80. 

16. 

7.6 

80. 

16. 

7.6 

76. 

15.2 

7.6 

76. 

15.2 

7.6 

Mizen  Top-sail  Yard 

53. 

11.1 

4.1 

53. 

11.1 

4.(j 

49.6 

10.2 

4. 

49.6 

10.2 

4. 

Mizen    Top-gallant 

Yard      .... 

33. 

6.6    I.C 

33. 

6.6 

I.C 

32. 

6.4 

1.6 

32. 

6.4 

1.6 

Mizen  Royal  Yard 

23. 

4.6 

1. 

23. 

4.6 

1. 

21. 

4.2 

.1 

21. 

4.2 

.1 

Sprit-sail  Yard  -    - 

i 

i 

Bow-sprit  '    -    -    - 

80. 

-    i     — 

78. 

i 

72. 

72. 

. 

Jib-boom  -    -    - 

60. 

m 

_ 

60. 

17.8;    - 

' 

54.  lie. 

m 

54. 

16. 

_ 

Flying  Jib-boom 

61 

12. 

-     61. 

12.       - 

56. 

11.      - 

56. 

11. 

_ 

Pole      .... 

9. 

- 

-  i    9 

9. 

-      -     '    9. 

_ 

- 

all  Classes  of  Vessels,  I,  S.  3. 


319 


Frigates. 

Sloops. 

1st  Class. 

2dC*s, 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class. 

j 

Diameter. 

Masthead. 

i 

j 

1 

3 

Masthead. 

§ 

Diameter. 

j 

I 

1 

Masthead. 

i 

1 
o 

| 

Ft  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch.     ft.  In. 

105. 

34. 

18. 

95. 

30.8 

16. 

80. 

25.8 

14. 

75. 

24.2 

12. 

72. 

24.2 

12. 

63. 

19.3 

9.7 

56. 

17.4 

9.6 

47. 

14.8     7. 

45. 

14.5 

6.9 

45. 

14.5 

6.9 

32. 

11. 

__ 

29. 

10. 

_ 

24. 

8. 

_ 

22. 

7.5 

_ 

22. 

7.5 

— 

21.81   - 

19.4 

_ 

_ 

16. 

_ 

14.8 

_ 

_ 

14.8 

_ 

_ 

6.81  4. 

7.9 

3.5 

- 

6.5 

3.5 

- 

6. 

3. 

- 

6. 

3. 

- 

95. 

30.8 

16.    |86. 

27.9 

14.6 

72. 

23.3 

12. 

67.6 

21.8 

11. 

64.6 

21.8 

11. 

56. 

19.3 

9.6 

51. 

17.4 

8.4 

43. 

14.6 

6.9 

42. 

14.5 

6.4 

42. 

14.5 

6.4 

29. 

11. 

_ 

25.8 

10. 

_ 

23. 

8.3 

_ 

21.        7. 

_ 

21. 

7. 

_ 

19.4 

_ 

17.1 

_ 

_ 

15.4 

_ 

14. 

_ 

_ 

14. 

_ 

_ 

7.9 

4. 

- 

6.10 

3.5 

- 

6. 

3.5 

- 

5.7 

3. 

- 

5.7 

3. 

- 

87. 

24.8 

12.4 

79. 

21. 

11. 

18. 

10. 

63.9 

16. 

10. 

60.9 

16. 

10 

46.4 

13.3 

6.8 

41. 

11.8 

6. 

11. 

6. 

32. 

9.9 

5. 

3-2. 

9.9 

5. 

24.6 

8. 

_ 

21. 

7. 

_ 

20. 

6.5 

_ 

16. 

5.3 

_ 

16. 

5.3 

_ 

16.4 

_ 

_ 

14. 

_ 

_ 

13.4 

_ 

10.8 

_ 

_ 

10.8 

_ 

_ 

6.6 

3.6 

- 

5.7 

3.3 

- 

5.2 

3.3 

- 

4.3 

2.8 

- 

4.3 

2.8 

- 

Yard 

Yard 

Yard 

Yard 

Yard 

Arm. 

Arm. 

Arm. 

Arm. 

Arm. 

95. 

22.6 

4.9 

86.6 

20. 

4.4 

75. 

17.5 

3.9 

67.6 

15.9 

4. 

67.6 

15.9 

4. 

71.6 

17.8 

6. 

65. 

15.5 

5.5 

56. 

13.4 

5. 

52.2 

12.6 

5. 

52.2 

12.6 

5. 

44. 

10:2 

2. 

40. 

9. 

2. 

37. 

8.4 

2. 

34. 

7.6 

2. 

34. 

7.6 

2. 

30. 

6. 

1.6 

•27. 

5.4 

1.3 

25. 

5. 

1. 

22.9 

4.5 

.9 

22.9 

4.5 

.9 

8-4. 

20.2 

4.6 

76. 

17.9 

4. 

65. 

15.2 

3.3 

60.9 

14.1 

3.8 

60.9 

14.1 

3.8 

62. 

15.5 

5.3 

57. 

13.6 

5. 

49. 

11.5 

4.8 

46. 

11.1 

5. 

46. 

11.1 

5. 

41. 

9.3 

2. 

38. 

8.5 

2. 

32. 

7.3 

1.9 

30.6 

6.8 

1.9 

30.6 

6.8 

1.9 

27. 

5.4 

1.3 

25. 

5. 

1. 

22. 

4.4 

.9 

20.6 

4.1 

.8 

20.6 

4.l|     .8 

66. 

13.2 

7. 

64. 

12.8 

M 
j* 

53. 

10.6 

4.9 

51.10 

10.4 

4. 

51.10'  10.4 

4. 

46. 

9.5 

4. 

41. 

8.5 

4. 

36.6 

7.6 

3.6 

34.8 

7.3 

3.3 

34.8      7.3 

3.3 

3C. 

6. 

1.626. 

5.2 

1.4 

22.6 

4.5 

1.4 

22. 

4.4 

13 

22.    1   4.4 

1.3 

19 

3.8 

.9 

16. 

3.2 

.8 

15. 

3. 

.6 

14. 

28 

.6 

14. 

2.8 

M 

66. 

60. 

50. 

48. 

46. 

-1- 

50. 

14.8 

_ 

45. 

13.5 

_ 

38. 

11.2 

_ 

34.6 

10. 

_ 

34.6 

10.      - 

54. 

10.8 

_ 

45. 

9. 

_ 

40. 

8. 

_ 

38.9 

7.8 

_ 

38.9 

7.8    - 

S8 

- 

- 

7.9 

- 

- 

6.5 

- 

- 

6. 

- 

- 

6. 

- 

320 


A   Table  of   Spars,   &c.,  for  all 


Ships  of  the  Line. 

Names  of  the 

THREE    DECKS. 

TWO    DECKS. 

Razees. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

different  Spars. 

s 

"o 

s 

"3 

£ 

•3 

1 

"3 

t 

1 

tl 

1 

1 

fg 

,c 

1 

1 

ff 

§ 

ff 

s 

5 

s** 

3 

0 

^ 

1 

Q 

Jo, 

3 

I 

|a, 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

FU  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In 

Main  Gaff    -    -    - 

33. 

8.2 

_ 

33. 

8.2 

30. 

7.4 

30. 

7.4 

M'n  Top-mast  Stud- 
ing-sail  Boom     - 

55. 

11.5 

53.9 

11. 

52.6 

11. 

52.6 

11. 

Yard  for  Main  Top- 

mast    Studding- 

sail   

24. 

4.8 

_ 

24. 

4.8 

_ 

23.6 

4.7 

_ 

23.6 

4.7 

Main     Top-gallant 

Studd'g-sail  Boom 

41. 

8.6 

_ 

39. 

8.2 

_ 

38. 

6.8 

_ 

38. 

6.8 

Yard  for  Main  Top- 
gallant   Studding- 

sail    -    -    - 

24. 

4.8 

""* 

24. 

4.8 

•  — 

23.6 

4.7 

— 

23.6 

4.7 

— 

Fore  Gaff-    -    -    - 

37. 

9.2 

37. 

9.2 

36. 

8.8 

36. 

8.8 

Lower     Swinging 

Boom     ---    - 

65. 

13. 

_ 

60. 

12. 

_ 

58. 

11.6 

58. 

11.6 

Yard  for  Lower  Stud- 

ding-sail    -    -    - 

32.6 

6.5 

_ 

30. 

6. 

_ 

29. 

5.8 

_ 

29. 

5.8 

^ 

Fore  Top-mast  Stud- 

ding-sail Boom    - 

50. 

10.5 

_ 

48. 

10. 

_ 

45. 

9.4 

_ 

45. 

9.4 

— 

Yard  for  Fore  Top- 

mast    Studding- 
sail   ... 

*J1 

90  O 

OQ 

K  P 

f  £ 

Fore  Top-gall't  Stud- 

OX* 

' 

&J.J 

. 

Jo. 

o.u 

~ 

28. 

o.o 

" 

ding-sail  Boom    - 

37.6 

7.8 

_ 

35. 

7.4 

_ 

33.6 

7. 

_ 

33.6 

7. 

— 

Yard  for  Fore  Top- 

gallant   Studding- 

sail    -    -    -    -    - 

22. 

4.4 

— 

21. 

4.2 

— 

20.6 

4. 

- 

20.6 

4. 

— 

Spanker  Boom   -    - 
Ring-tail  Boom  -    - 

60. 
30. 

12.5 
6. 

- 

60. 

30. 

12.5 
6. 

- 

57. 

28.6 

11.8 
5.7 

- 

57. 

28.6 

H.8 
5.7 

- 

MizenGaff  ... 

38. 

9.4 

5. 

38. 

9.4 

5. 

35. 

8.6 

5. 

35. 

8.6 

5 

Square-sail  Boom  - 

Yard    for    Square- 

i 

sail    .... 

Jack  Gaff.    -    -    . 

17. 

6. 

_ 

16.     5.5 

^_ 

16. 

5.5J    - 

16. 

5.5 

_ 

Dolphin  Striker  -    - 

22. 

9. 

3. 

20.     8.5J    3. 

20. 

8.5l    3 

20 

8.5 

a 

Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S.  N. — Continued. 


321 


Frigates. 

Sloops. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Ckss. 

3d  Clara. 

! 

K~nr 

98.6 

47.6 

1 
I 

•3 

5» 

1 

5 

Ft.  In. 

27. 
43.3 

1 
5 

"3 

* 

i 

5 

1 

.3 

Q 

•3 

If 

$*- 

4 

S 

1 

Q 

"3 
tf 

cp 

S* 

i 
I 

1 
1 

•3 
FTIT 

Inch. 

7.1 
9.9 

Ft.  lu. 

Inch. 

6.8 
9. 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

19.5 
37.6 

Inch. 

5. 

7.8 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

17. 
33.9 

Inch 

4.4 

7. 

Fl.  !n. 

Ft.  In. 

17. 
33.9 

Inch. 

4.4 

7. 

ao. 

4. 

- 

18. 

3.6 

- 

16.6 

3.3 

- 

15. 

3. 

- 

15. 

3. 

- 

35.9 

7.4 

- 

32.6 

6.8 

- 

28. 

5.8 

- 

26. 

5.4 

- 

26. 

5.4 

- 

20. 

4. 

- 

18. 

3.6 

- 

16.6 

3.3 

- 

15. 

3. 

- 

15. 

3. 

« 

33.6 

8.3 

_ 

33. 

8.2 

_ 

26. 

6.4 

_ 

25. 

6.2 

_ 

25. 

6.2 

_ 

51.3 

10.2 

- 

46.3 

9.2 

- 

42. 

8.4 

- 

40.9 

8.2 

- 

40.9 

8.2 

- 

25.6 

5. 

- 

23. 

4.6 

- 

21. 

4.2 

- 

20.4 

4. 

- 

20.4 

4. 

- 

12. 

8.8 

- 

38. 

8. 

- 

32.6 

6.8 

- 

30.3 

6.4 

- 

30.S 

6.4 

- 

25.9 

5.2 

- 

23.6 

4.7 

_ 

19.10 

4. 

_ 

18. 

3.6 

- 

18. 

3.6 

- 

31. 

6.5 

-       28.6 

6. 

- 

•24.6 

5.2 

- 

23. 

4.9 

- 

23. 

4.9 

- 

18.6 

3.7 

-       17. 

3.4 

- 

14. 

3.3 

- 

13.6 

2.7 

- 

13.6 

2.7 

- 

50. 
25. 
32. 

10.5 
5. 

7.8 

4.6 

45. 

22.6 
30. 

9.5 
4.5 
7.4 

4.6 

35. 

17.6 
28. 

7.7 
3.5 
6.8 

4. 

34. 

17. 
26. 

7.4 
3.4 
6.4 

I 

34. 

& 

7.4 
3.4 
6.4 

i 
_ 

14. 

ia 

4.2 
7.5 

i 

14. 

18. 

4.2 

7.5 

2. 

13. 

15. 

3.7 
7. 

2. 

11.   i  3.2 
14.   i  6.3 

1.8 

11. 

14. 

32 

63 

Ib 

322 


A  Table  of  Spars,  &c. —  Conducted. 


Names  ot  the 

Brigs. 

Irigautines. 

Schooners. 

different  Spars. 

•5 

1 

1 

% 

I 

1 

i 

1 

1 

3 

a 

g 

5 

c 

i 

a 

S 

g 

Ft.  In. 

nch. 

Ft.  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

X  In. 

Ft.  In. 

Inch. 

Ft.  In. 

Main  Mast    -    -    - 

72.2 

22.6 

12.2 

76. 

20. 

8. 

78.8 

20.3 

8. 

Main  Top-mast  -    - 

40.6 

126 

6.9 

21. 

6.3 

_ 

26.2 

7.5 

Main     Top-gallant 

Mast      .... 

20.3 

7.2 

_ 

14. 

5.2 

_ 

13.1 

5. 

Main  Ro)^!  Mast  - 

3.4 

_ 

_ 

6.6 

Main  Flag  Pole      - 

5.4 

2.5 

_ 

5.4 

_ 

_ 

6. 

2.5 

_ 

(  Diameter  at  the 

Fore  Mast     -    -    - 

64.8 

22. 

11.3 

55. 

18.7 

9.2 

75.8 

21.3 

8. 

(     Truck. 

Fore  Top-mast  -    - 

40.6 

12.6 

6.9 

32.6 

10.4 

5.6 

26.2 

7.5 

Fore  Top-gall't  Mast 

20.3 

7.2 

_ 

18.3 

6.8 

_ 

13.1 

5. 

Fore  Royal  Mast    - 
Fore  Flag  Pole  -    - 

13.6 
5.4 

2  5 

- 

12. 
5. 

6. 

2.5 

^  Diameter  at  the 
\     Truck. 

Mizen  Flag  Pole    - 

\  Diameter  at  the 
i    Truck 

Yard 

Yard 

Yard 

Arm. 

Arm. 

Arm. 

Main  Yard    -    -    - 

59.6 

14. 

3. 

35.6 

8. 

2.9 

Main  Top-sail  Yarc 

44.7 

10.6 

3.8 

24.6 

5.5 

1.4 

Main  Top-gal't  Yard 
Main  Royal  Yard  - 

28.4 
18.11 

6.5 
3.6 

L9 

16.3 

3.2 

g 

Fore  Yard     -    -    - 

59.6 

14. 

3! 

45. 

10.1 

2.9 

50. 

11.3 

2.6 

Fore  Top-sail  Yard 

44.7 

10.7 

3.8 

33.6 

7.7 

3. 

33.4 

7.4 

2.6 

Fore  Top-gall't  Yard 

28.4 

6.5 

1  1 

22. 

4.5 

1.6 

22.2 

4.5 

1. 

Fore  Royal  Yard    - 
Sprit-sail  Yard  -    - 

18.11 

4. 

.i 

14.9 

3. 

Q 

Bow-sprit-    -    -    - 

42. 

_ 

_ 

17.6 

Out 

b'rd. 

29.1 

18. 

Jib-boom  -    -    -    - 

32.5 

9.51    - 

14. 

Out 

b'rd. 

37. 

11. 

Flying  Jib-boom     - 

34.5 

6.8!    _ 

12. 

Out 

b'rd. 

Pole      ..... 

P.   A 

q  4. 

O.I 

L'gth 
Pole 

O.4 

L'gth 
Pole. 

L'gth 
Pole. 

Poles  to  the  M'n 
Gaffs  of   B;T£8. 

Main  Gaff    -    -    - 

39.8 

9.8 

5. 

25. 

8.5 

5. 

25. 

8.5 

5. 

Brigantines  aiia 
Sch'ners  are  not 

M'n  Top-mast  Stud- 
ding-sail Boom 
Yard  for  Main  Top- 
mast Studding-sai 
Main     Top-gallant 

29 
12.10 

6. 
2.6 

included  in  the 
lengths  given 

Studd'g-sail  Boom 

22.3 

4.6 

Yard  for  Main  Top 

gal't  Studding-sai 

12.10 

2.6 

Fore  Gaff-    -    -    - 

25. 

6.2 

_ 

24. 

8. 

_ 

25. 

8.  i 

Lower      Swinging 

Boom     .... 

31.6 

6.4 

_ 

22.     4.6 

_. 

22. 

4,6 

Yard  for  Lower  Stud 

1 

ding-sail     -    -    - 

15.3 

3. 

_ 

11.  1  2.6 

_ 

11.  i  *.6' 

Fore  Top-mast  Stud 

i 

ding-sail  Boom    - 

29.9 

6.2 

22.6 

4.8 

25. 

5.3, 

Yard  for  Fore  Top- 

mast Studding-sai 

18.7 

3.8 

13.9 

3. 

_ 

14.2 

3. 

Fore  Top-gall't  Stud 

ding  -sail  Boom    - 

22.3 

4.7 

_ 

16.S 

3.6 

16.8 

3.61 

Yard  for  Fore  Top 

gall'nt  Studd'g-sai 

12.10  2.6 

9.6 

2. 

_ 

10.1 

2.2' 

Spanker  Boom  -    - 
Square-sail  Boom  - 

59.6 

13. 

- 

50. 

11. 

- 

50. 

11.  i 

97 

Yard  for  Square-sai 

22'.6 

»/•  I 

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9. 

3. 

9. 

a. 

9. 

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3. 

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OR    YOCNGr  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


323 


A  Cordage  Table  of  Feet  and  Fathoms* 


Fwt.l  Fath. 

Feet.1  Fath.  IFect.1  Fath.  IFeet  Fath. 

Feet. 

Fath. 

Feet. 

Fath. 

Feet 

Fath. 

1 

30 

5  0 

155J25  5 

280 

46  4 

405  67  3 

530 

88  2 

655 

109  1 

780 

130  0 

35 

5  5 

160 

26  4 

285 

47  3 

41068  2 

535 

89  1 

660 

110  0 

785 

130  5 

40j  6  4 

165 

27  3 

290 

48  2 

415 

69  1 

540 

90  0 

665 

110  5 

790 

131  4 

451  7  3 

170 

28  2 

295 

49  1 

420 

70  0 

545 

90  5 

670 

111  4 

795 

132  3 

50 

8  2 

175 

29  1 

300 

50  0 

425 

70  5 

550 

91  4 

675 

112  3 

800 

133  2 

55 

9  1 

180 

30  0 

305 

50  5 

430 

71  4 

555 

92  3 

680 

113  2 

805 

134  I 

60 

10  0 

185 

30  5 

310 

51  4 

435 

72  3 

560 

93  2 

685 

114  1 

810 

135  0 

65 

10  5 

190 

31  4 

315 

52  3 

440 

73  2 

565 

94  1 

690 

115  0 

815 

135  5 

70 

11  4 

195 

32  3 

320 

53  2 

445 

74  1 

570 

95  0 

695 

115  5 

820 

136  4 

75 

12  3 

200 

33  2 

325 

54  1 

450 

75  0 

575 

95  5 

700 

116  4 

825 

137  3 

80 

13  2 

205 

34  1 

330 

55  0 

455 

75  5 

580 

96  4 

705 

117  3 

830 

138  2 

85 

14  1 

210 

35  0 

335 

55  5 

460 

76  4 

585 

97  3 

310 

118  2835 

139  1 

90 

15  0 

215 

35  5 

340 

56  4 

465 

77  3 

590 

98  2 

715 

119  1 

840 

140  0 

95 

15  5 

220 

36  4 

345 

57  3 

47U 

78  2 

595 

99  1  720 

120  0 

845 

140  5 

100 

16  4 

225 

37  3 

350 

58  2 

475 

79  1 

600 

100  0 

725 

120  5 

850 

141  4 

105 

17  3 

230 

38  2 

355 

59  1 

480 

80  0 

605 

100  5 

730 

121  4 

855 

142  3 

110 

18  2 

235 

39  1 

360 

60  0 

485 

80  5 

610 

101  4 

735 

122  3 

860 

143  2 

115 

19  1 

240 

40  0 

365 

60  5 

490 

81  4 

615 

102  3 

740 

123  2 

865 

144  1 

120 

20  0 

245 

40  5 

370 

61  4 

495 

82  3 

620 

103  2 

745 

124  1 

870 

145  0 

125 

20  5 

250 

41  4 

375 

62  3 

500 

83  2 

625 

104  1 

750 

125  0 

875 

145  5 

130 

21  4 

255 

42  3 

380 

63  2 

505 

84  1 

630 

105  0 

755 

125  5 

880 

146  4 

135 

22  3 

260 

43  2 

385 

64  1 

510 

85  0 

635 

105  5 

760 

126  4 

885 

147  3 

140 

23  2 

265 

44  1 

390 

65  0 

515 

85  5 

640 

106  4 

765 

127  3 

890 

148  2 

145 

24  1 

270 

45  0 

395 

65  5 

520 

86  4 

645 

107  3 

770128  2 

895 

149  1 

15025  0 

275 

45  5 

400 

66  4 

525 

87  3 

650 

108  2 

775129  1 

900 

150  0 

1 

• 

Weight  of  Cables  of  I'M)  fathoms  from  3  to  25  inches. 

Three  inch  cable  weighs  252  pounds ;  3j  inch,  336  pounds ;  4,  448 ;  4 £,  560 ; 
5,700;  5J,  840;  6, 1008;  6|,  1176;  7,  1340;  7|,  1568;  8,  1792;  8i,  2016;  9,2268; 
9i,  2520 ;  10,  2800  ;  10*,  3080  ;  11,  3388 ;  11 J,  3696 ;  12,  4032 ;  12 J,  4368 ;  13, 4732 ; 
I3J,  5056;  14,5480;  14£,  5880;  15,  6328;  15J,  6720;  16,  7168;  16^,7616;  17, 
8092;  17J,  8568;  18,  9072;  18J,  9520;  19,  10108;  19 J,  10640;  20,  11200;  20*, 
11760;  21,  12348;  21J,  12936;  22,  13452;  2?J,  14168;  23,  145*0;  23J,  15456;  24, 
16128;  25,  17500. 


324 


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340 


523.— A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Stand- 


Names  of  Rigging. 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frigatesi 

1 

3   DECKS.     - 

2   DECKS. 

1st  C 

las?. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

1 

1 

J 

6 

<B 

A 

1 

6 

1 

£ 

6 

i 

02 

! 

J 

1 

j 

BOWSPRIT  GEAR. 

Gammoning  (Iron  for 

all  classes  of  vessels 

Shrouds  (pairs)    -    - 
Collars  for  Shrouds  - 

2 

2 

9 

9 

38 
8 

2 
2 

9 
9 

34 

7 

2 

2 

9 
9 

32 

7 

2 
2 

84 

32 

7 

2 
2 

8 
8 

30 

i 

Lanyards  for  Shrouds 

(four-stranded)  -    - 
Bobstays  (pairs)  -    - 

4 
2 

4 

104 

32 
36 

4 

2 

4 
104 

32 
32 

4 

2 

4 

10 

32 
31 

4 

2 

4 

10 

32 
31 

4 

2 

10* 

34 

26 

Collars  for  Bobstays 

2 

104 

7 

2 

104 

64 

2 

10 

64 

2 

10 

64 

2 

10 

•Si 

Lanyards  for  Bohstays 

(four-stranded)  -    - 

2 

5? 

17 

X 

54 

17 

2 

5 

17 

2 

5 

17 

2 

5 

18 

Cap  Bobstay    -    -    - 
Collar  for  Cap  Bobstay 

1 

7 
7 

20 

34 

1 
1 

7 
7 

17 
34 

1 

1 

7 

7 

17 
3 

1 
1 

7 

7 

17 
3 

1 
1 

64 
64 

15 

a 

Lanyard  for  Cap  Bob- 

stay  (four-stranded} 

1 

34 

84 

1 

34 

84 

1 

34 

84 

1 

34 

84 

1 

34 

8- 

Manropes    -    -    -    - 

2 

44 

18 

9 

6 

44 

18 

2 

44 

18 

2 

17 

2 

44 

16 

Bumkin  Braces  (Iron 

for  all  vessels    -    - 

SPRIT-SAIL    YARD 

GEAR. 

1 

j. 

Ifl 

1 

in 

, 

i 

7 

i 

A 

i) 

Tve    - 

1 
1 

4.1 

A" 

AU 

i 

i 

1" 

i 

j. 

*x 

1 

2 

Foot  Ropes  -    -    -    - 

1 

2 

34 

16 

9 

A 

34 

16 

i 

2 

3J 

16 

2 

34 

15 

2 

34 

12 

Lifts  

2 

44 

31 

9 
4 

44 

30 

2 

44 

30 

2 

44 

28 

2 

26 

Rmr>pc 

2 

108 

o 
4 

34 

106 

2 

34 

103 

2 

34 

103 

2 

3? 

86 

JIB-BOOM  GEAR. 

Jib  Stay-    -    ... 

i 

._ 

i 

AA 

1 

._ 

4.9 

1 

71 

„_ 

Jib  Guys  (pairs)  -    - 

i 

2 

6 

75 

1 

2 

6 

72 

1 

2 

6 

72 

2 

6 

68 

1 

2 

'5 

54 

G8 

Jib  Falls     -    ... 

4 

3 

40 

4 

3 

40 

4 

3 

40 

4 

3 

40 

4 

2? 

40 

Foot  Ropes  -    -    -    - 

2 

4 

18 

2 

4 

18 

2 

4 

18 

2 

4 

17 

2 

3f 

16 

Martingale  Stay  -    - 

1 

8 

10 

1 

8 

9 

1 

8 

8 

1 

8 

8 

1 

74;    7! 

Martingale  Backropes 

( 

(pair)-    -    ... 

1 

P^l 

on 

p  , 

1" 

e  i 

K   I 

1 

c   !    Tfi 

Martingale  Fa  as  -    - 

J. 

2 

32 

16 

c 

33 

16 

2 

04 

3 

16 

2 

3* 

16 

2 

O    ',    i  C 

2fj  16 

Halliards    -    ... 

1 

70 

1 

3f 

70 

1 

64 

1 

3i 

67 

1, 

31   62 

Downhaul  -    -    -    - 

1 

3* 

42 

1 

3 

40 

1 

2f 

35 

1 

36 

1   24  35 

Sheets    -    -    . 

o 

m 

44 

80 

2 

44 

70 

2 

44 

3f 

62 

2l  34   68 

Pendants     -    ... 

2 

6 

8 

2 

6 

8 

2 

6 

7 

2 

5f 

7 

21  5f     6J 

Brails     

2|  2| 

68 

2 

Os 

60 

2 

2| 

57 

2 

25 

58 

2i  24;  56 

FLYING  JIB-B  )OM 

GEAR. 

j 

Flying-  Jib  Stay   -    - 
Flying-Jib  Guys  -    - 

1 

2 

5 
4 

52 
52 

1 
2 

5 
4 

50 
50 

1 

2 

5 
4 

47 
44 

1 

2 

44 
3! 

48 
44 

1 

2 

44  43 

3|t  40 

Flying-Jib  Falls   -    - 
Foot  Ropes  .... 

2 

2 

3 
3 

24 
11 

2 
o 

fl 

3 
3 

24 
10 

2 
2 

3 
3 

24 
10 

2 
2 

2? 
3 

24 
10 

o 
2 

2f'  20 
3       9 

Martingale  Stay  -    - 

1 

5 

24 

1 

5 

20 

1 

5 

20 

1 

20 

1 

44   18 

Halliards    -    ... 

1 

34 

60 

1 

34 

58 

1 

34 

53 

1 

38 

54 

1 

3     51 

Downhaul  -    -    -    . 

1 

2J 

46 

1 

2f 

46 

1 

2| 

39 

1 

24 

40 

1 

24 

36 

o 

C9 

c 

fLf) 

*s* 

/to 

j  rv 

Hfel-rope    -    -    .    . 

& 

1 

,  3f 

OxS 

34 

1 

3* 

ou 
32 

1 

3* 

30 

1 

3j   -±o 
3  i  30 

I 

2! 

30 

NOTE.  -The  Lar^ards  <TT  aJl  Standing  Rigging  should  be  four-stranded  rope. 


fug  &  Run-'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  I1.  S.  N.  34 1 


rigates. 

Sloops. 

Brigs. 

Brig- 

iiitines 

Schoon- 
ers. 

Steamers 

d  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Classed  Class. 

5 

1  * 

jj 

JS 

.c 

* 

£ 

^ 

5 

hi 

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J 

J 

J_ 

d 

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1     I 

c 

1 

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o 

J 

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A 

3 

s 

1  —  •  — 

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24 

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7 

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1 

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1 

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1 

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1 

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2 

74 

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if 

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ll 

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28 

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274 

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12 

23! 

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23 

14 

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342   A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frigates. 

3   DECKS. 

2   DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

Names  of  Rigging. 

t   ' 

' 

JS 

t 

t 

5 

d 

g 

1 

1 

fc 

'I 

1 

6 
£ 

1 

J 

i 

00 

t 

I 

I 

PORE-MAST    AND 

YARD  GEAR. 

Pendants  (pairs)    - 

2 

104'     10 

2 

104 

10 

2 

10 

10 

2 

10 

10 

2 

10 

10 

Shrouds  (pairs)*  -    - 
Lanyards  for  Shrouds 
(four-stranded)  -    - 
Stays      

10 

•20 

2 

J 

54 
15 

(124 
(134 

200 
40 

10 

20 
2 

104 

54 
15 

$120 
$134 

160 
40 

10 

20 
2 

10 
5 

U14 

160 

38 

10 

20 
2 

10 

5 
144 

U23 
^128 

160 
39 

9 

18 
2 

10 

5 

14 

^  92 

153 
46 

Collars  for  Stays  -    - 

2 

9 

19 

2 

9 

18 

2 

92 

18 

2 

84 

18 

Futtock  Shrouds  -    - 

12 

30 

12 

30 

12 

30 

12 

6 

30 

10 

5f 

25 

Slings  Proper  (to  go 
over    Cap)  —  Chain 

for  all  vessels    -    - 

Slings,  Preventer 

1 

12 

11 

1 

12 

10 

1 

11 

10 

1 

104 

10 

1 

10 

9 

Lanyard  for  Slings    - 

1 

5 

21 

1 

5 

21 

1 

4f 

21 

1 

4f 

21 

1 

4* 

21 

Pendant  Tackle  Falls 

2 

4 

118 

f 

4 

114 

2 

94 

2 

3f 

98 

2 

3| 

98 

rj   __„.-„ 

1 

Q 

1  A. 

i 

u 

14. 

H" 

1 

-j 

7 

14 

Falls  for  Runner  -    - 

I 

1 

O 

4 

45 

j 
1 

o 
4 

i^t 

45 

1 

4 

: 

39 

A 

1 

3| 

39 

1 

31 

42 

Jeer  Falls    -    -    -    - 

2 

51 

130 

2 

5| 

130 

c 

108 

2 

112 

2 

5 

104 

Jackstays    (bending) 

Iron     _    -    -    -    - 

Jackstays  (reefing)   - 
Foot  Ropes  -    -    -    - 

2 

<r 

34 

5 

17 

18 

9 
( 

34 
5 

16 
17 

2 

o 

i 

4* 

16 
17 

2 

2 

4| 

16 
17 

2 

2 

3 

4f 

14 
15 

Q 

C 

Q 

g 

0 

r. 

5 

Truss  Pendants  (hide) 

C 
9 

4 

1 

c 
22 

C 

2 

7? 

20 

2 

O 

64 

19 

L 

2 

64 

19 

2 

64 

18 

Falls  for  Truss  Pen 

J         j. 

2 

34 

52 

9 

34 

50 

c 

3 

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2 

3 

50 

2 

3 

48 

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pu 

or 

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7£ 

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2 

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70 

2 

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a/Vj 

154 

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150 

44 

154 

2 

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44 

ou 
156 

2 

44 

148 

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s 

80 

C 

64 

80 

t 

62 

68 

4 

64 

70 

2 

6 

66 

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; 

64 

84 

c 

6; 

84 

o 

61 

72 

2 

74 

21  6 

68 

Clew  Garnets  -    -    - 

9 

i 

4 

84 

( 

42 

80 

t 

3* 

74 

2 

3f 

78 

2 

31 

64 

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2 

4 

64 

t 

4 

62 

t 

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60 

2 

3f 

60 

2 

56 

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9 

44 

11 

9 

4* 

10 

2 

44'     10 

2 

44 

10 

2 

44 

9 

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2 

54 

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52 

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3 

48 

2 

3 

50 

2 

3 

40 

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t 

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52 

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48 

2 

44 

2 

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46 

2 

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40 

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i 

3 

110 

3 

110 

i 

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105 

2 

03 

108 

4 

24 

104 

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Slab-lines    -    -    -    - 

t 

3 
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100 
22 

j 

3 

24 

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84 
21 

4 
1 

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24 

88 
22 

4 

1 

24 

24 

80 
20 

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c 

2f 

86 

c 

21 

80 

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24 

70 

2 

72 

2 

24 

70 

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f 

34 

36 

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34 

36 

5 

3 

3b 

2 

3^     36 

2 

3 

30 

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I 

2f       42 

f 

2| 

40 

c 

34 

9 

A 

24     36 

2 

24 

34 

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c 

3 

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3 
24 

60 
23 

2 
1 

3 

58 
21 

2 
1 

3 

24 

60 

22 

2 
1 

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24     20 

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34 

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36 

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33 

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1 

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18 

1 

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24 

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4 

98 

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2 

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84 

9 

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3 

60 

9 

3 

54 

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n«*tern  lengths  for  each  gang  of  Standing  Rigging. 


344    A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  ana 


Names  of  Rigging. 

Ships  of  t  lie  Line.              \ 

Razees. 

Frigates. 

3  DECKS. 

2   DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

d 

5 

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02 

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g 

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3 

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PORE-MAST    AND 

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Lower    Studding-sail 

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32 

2 

4* 

32 

2 

4  '    30 

2 

3f 

30 

2 

3J     30 

Lower   Studding-sail 

Outhaul  -    -    -    - 

2 

4 

58 

2 

4 

56 

2 

4 

50 

2 

3! 

50 

2 

3|j    52 

Swinging-boom   Top- 
ping-lifts -    -    -    - 

2 

54 

44 

2 

5* 

40 

2 

5i 

38 

2 

5 

40 

2 

44 

38 

Palls  and  Lizard  for 

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After  Guys-    -    -    - 

2 

2 

34 

3£ 

108 
76 

2 

(T 

3* 

3! 

104 
70 

2 
2 

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3f 

100 
66 

2 
2 

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34 

100 
66 

9 

2 

3 

34 

94 
60 

Forward  Guys     -    - 

2 

3f 

128 

c 

31 

120 

2 

3f 

108 

2 

34 

108 

2 

34 

106 

Gear  Tricing-lines  - 

2 

3 

44 

c 

3 

42 

2 

3 

42 

2 

3 

42 

2 

21 

40 

FORE  TOP-MAST  & 

YARD  GEAR. 

flhrouds  and  Pendants 

(pairs')     .-.    - 
Lanyards  for  Shrouds 

G 

7 

123 

6 

7 

123 

6 

7 

123 

6 

6J 

123 

5 

6 

86 

and  Pendants    -    - 

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34 

84 

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34 

84 

12 

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84 

12 

34 

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10 

3 

70 

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C 

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70 

o 

qi 

65 

2 

Ql 

64 

2 

Ql 

65 

2 

9 

62 

Breast  Backstays(prs) 

2 

»/2 

8 

/  v 

82 

9 

v>2 

8 

80 

2 

^2 

74 

78 

2 

^2 

74 

81 

2 

7 

72 

E'alls  for  Breast  Back- 

, 

4 

Qs 

p>2 

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33 

52 

4" 

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RO 

4 

Q3 

KO 

4 

Ql 

52 

Standing    Backstays 

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050 

\ 

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9i6 

«>5 

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(pairs)     -    -    -    - 

2 

10 

88 

2 

10 

86 

9 

10 

84 

2 

10 

86 

2 

94 

78 

Lanyards  for  Standing 
Backstays     -    -    - 

4 

5 

40 

^ 

5 

40 

4 

5 

40 

4 

5 

40 

4 

4f 

40 

Cat-Harpen  Legs     - 

2 

44 

4 

c 

41 

4 

2 

4i 

4 

2 

4i 

4 

2 

44 

4 

Top-Burtons    -    -    - 

f 

3i 

176 

( 

34 

170 

e 

3| 

158 

9 

2 

34 

162 

2 

3i 

150 

o 

41 

8 

t 

41 

8 

c 

4.1 

8 

'2 

41 

8 

2 

4 

7 

Top  Tackle  Pendants 
Top  Tackle  Falls     - 

o 

t 

"i 

9 
5 

53 
160 

9 

e 

^; 

9 
5 

52 

150 

2 
£ 

t  O5  vO 

45 

130 

2 

2 

9 

41 

47 
135 

2 
S 

84 
44 

44 

130 

Jackstays    (bending) 

Iron     

Foot  Ropes  -    -    -    - 

t 
6 

4 
3 

15 
6 

c 

6 

4 
3 

15 
6 

t 

6 

4 
3 

12 

6 

2 
6 

4 
3 

12 
6 

2 
6 

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13 
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Flemish  Horses    -    - 

2 

3 

6 

2 

3 

6 

2 

3 

6 

9 

4 

3 

6 

2 

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5 

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7 

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Top-sail     Ties     (all 

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116 

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106 

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Bow-iines    -    -    -    - 

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Reef  Pend'ts  (all  hide 

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Run'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S.  N.-Con.  345 


rigates. 

Sloops. 

Brig- 

Scliooii 

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1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

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2 

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4 

6 

24 

6 

3 

5 

2l  24!    4 

2 

24 

4 

2 

24 

4 

22 

4 

22 

4 

2!  2 

3 

2 

3 

5 

64 

44 

ll  6     44 

1 

54     4 

1 

54 

4 

15 

4 

1 

5 

4 

1 

34 

3 

64 

5 

64 

30 

2l  6     23 

1 

2 

54|22 

2 

54 

22 

1!54 

9 

1 

5. 

8 

1 

44 

7 

2 

64 

41 

341    90 

2 

34   82 

2 

34 

70 

2 

3 

68 

13 

30 

1 

3 

30 

1 

2| 

41 

2  3i 

100 

2| 

15 

1 

24    14 

1 

24 

13 

1 

24 

12 

12 

12 

] 

2 

12 

1 

2 

5 

1 

21 

15 

54 

29 

2 

5     26 

2 

5 

25 

2 

5 

24 

244 

21 

2 

U 

21 

2 

4 

20 

2 

54 

35 

34 

94 

2 

34 

76 

2 

34 

74 

2 

3 

72 

22f 

60 

22f 

64 

2 

24 

64 

2 

34 

124 

2| 

65 

I 

24 

60 

1 

24 

60 

1 

24 

56 

48 

104    4* 

_ 

_ 

1 

2f 

60 

2J 

36 

1 

2 

34 

1 

2 

32 

1 

32 

1 

2 

30 

ill*!  30 

_ 

_ 

1 

2 

34 

5! 

56 
64 

2   24 
2  54 

52 
54 

2 
2 

24 
5 

50 

48 

2 
2 

241  50 
5  !  46 

2 
2 

24 

4 

48 
46 

2 

2 

24 

4 

48 
46 

2 

3| 

46 

2 
2 

24 
5! 

50 
71 

34 

74 

2  3 

62 

2 

3 

60 

2 

2f  59 

2 

24 

58 

2 

2i 

56 

2 

24 

36 

2 

34 

86 

34 

50 

2  3 

48 

2 

3 

44 

2 

2|'  42 

2 

2^ 

40 

2 

24 

40 

2 

2 

32 

2 

34     60 

34 

54 

2  3 

50 

2 

3 

46 

2 

2f|  45 

224 

42 

2 

24 

42 

2 

24 

44 

2 

34     66 

144 

11 

2  4     10 

2 

4 

10 

2 

3|i  10 

234 

7 

2 

34 

7 

2 

3     7 

2 

44     1? 

26 


346    A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Names  of  Rigging. 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

PI 
Is 

6 
2 

2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
2 

2 
1 
1 

2 
1 

1 
1 

C 

X; 

i 

2 
1 

9 

4 

2 

2 
2 

2 

1 

2 
2 
2 

1 

2 
i 

riga 

t  Cl 

i 

34 
24 
2| 

2f 

2 
3! 
34 
3* 

24 

34 

31 

44 

4£ 
44 

24 
54 

54 
54 

2| 
2 
34 
34 
24 
2! 
31 
2 
2 
24 
2 

24 

24 
21 
3 

24 

1 

34 
2 
9 

test 

ass. 

£ 
I 

3   DECKS. 

2   DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

6 

2 

I 

02 

3i 
24 
3 
4 
3 

24 
4 
3£ 
3} 

3 
3£ 
4 

5 
5 
5 

2| 
6 

Gi 
5f 

3 
2J 
4 
3| 
2? 
3i 
4i 
2 
Si 
2f 
24 
2* 
2? 
3 
3k 
2J 

4 
2 

•*» 

j= 
I1 

a 

c 

Z, 

2 
2 

2 

1 
1 

o 

f 
t 
( 

o 
2 
2 

2 

c 

i 

c 

S 

02 

1 

6 
£ 

2 

2 
2 
1 

1 
2 

2 
1 
1 

f 
1 

1 
1 

2 
c 

1 
2 
c 

( 

( 

t 
c 

i 

2 
c 

'1 
sj 

I 

74 
92 
24 
10 
30 
26 
96 
80 
45 

60 
60 
40 

63 
41 
49 

24 

51 

52 
12 

8j 
2 
3 
50 
116 
52 
60 
81 
88 
44 
24 
20 
24 
84 
27 
54 

37 
10 
w 

6 
£ 

2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
2 

2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
2 

2 
1 
1 

2 
1 

1 

1 

A 
X 

1 
1 

2 
2 
2 

1 
2 
i 

35 

ja 

FORE  TOP-MAST  & 
YARD  GEAR.  Con. 

Whips  for  Reef  Pen- 

2 

2 

2 

1 

1 
£ 

2 
o 

£• 

2 

f 

o 

it 

f 

1 
1 

2 

79 
102 
24 
11 
30 
30 
104 
94 
56 

70 
60 
40 

66 
46 
52 

24 
56 

58 
12 

9 
2 
3 
52 
128 
57 
66 
90 
96 
48 
24 
22 
29 
94 
32 
64 

38 
10 

F><3 

3* 
24 
3 
4 
3 
24 
4 
31 
34 

3 

34 
4 

5 
5 
5 

2! 
6 

6| 

5f 

3 

24 
4 
3f 
2* 

3J 

44 
2* 
2^ 
2| 
24 
2f 
2? 
3 
3£ 
2f 

4 

2 

9 

78 
96 
24 
10 
30 
26 
100 
86 
48 

68 
60 
40 

64 
45 
51 

24 
54 

58 
12 

9 
2 
3 
50 
120 
56 
65 
84 
94 
48 
24 
21 
26 
88 
28 
58 

38 
10 

ft7 

3i 
2* 
3 
4 
3 
2 
4 
3£ 
3* 

2f 
3i 
4 

5 
5 
5 

2£ 
6 

6 

5£ 

3 

2i 
4 
3i 
2* 
3 
4i 
2i 
2 

2* 

2i 
2i 
2* 
3 
3i 
2f 

4 

2 
TI 

3j 

2i 
3 
4 
3 
2 
3f 
3* 
3i 

2! 
3| 
4 

5 
5 
5 

2* 

6 

5f 

5J 

2* 

2i 
4 
3i 
24 
3 
4i 
2i 
2 
2£ 
2i 
2t 
2§ 
3 
3* 
2£ 

4 
2 
1 

74 
94 
24 
10 
30 
26 
100 
84 
47 

62 
60 
40 

63 

42 
50 

24 
53 

54 

12 

84 

2 
3 

50 
118 
53 
62 
83 
88 
44 
24 
20 
,  25 
86 
27 
54 

37 
10 

M 

66 
86 
24 
8 
25 
22 
92 
84 
46 

60 
50 
35 

56 
39 
46 

20 

48 

49 
10| 

8 
2 
3 

44 

112 
48 
56 
78 
84 
40 
20 
18 
24 
84 
24 
54 

33 

8 

Ai\ 

Clew  Jiggers  -    -    - 
Lift  Jiggers     ... 
Bunt-runner     -    -    - 
Jigger  for  Bunt-runner 
Boom  Tricing-lines  - 
Studding-s'l  Halliards 
Studding-sail  Tacks 
Studding-sail  Sheets 
Studding-sail   Down- 

Studding-sail     Boom 

Studding-sail      Top- 
ping-lifts .... 

FORE  TOP-GAL'NT 
M'ST&  YARD  GEAR 

Shrouds  (pairs)    -    - 

Qtav 

Breast  Backstays(prs" 
Falls  for  Breast  Back- 
stays  -    -    -    -    - 
Standing     Backstays 
(pairs)     -    -    -    - 
Long  Yard,  or  Mast 

Short  Mast  Rope  -    - 
Jackstays  (Iron)  -    - 

c 
i 

Parrpl 

Lifts  

Halliards    ...    - 

CUppfe 

Clew-lines  -    ... 

Bunt-lines   -    -    -    - 

Lift  Jiggers      -    -    - 
Bunt  Jiggers    -    -    - 
Tripping-line  -    -    - 
Studding-sail  Hall'rd 
Studding-sail  Sheets 
Studding-sail  Tacks 

F'RE  ROYAL  MAST 
AND  YARD  GEAR. 

bhrouds  (pair)      -    - 
Falls  for  Shrouds      - 

I 

Run'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S.  N,-Ow.  34? 


Frigates. 

Sloops. 

Brigs. 

Brig- 
ant  i  lies 

i 
Schoon- 
ers. 

st 

earn 

J 

GO 

ersi 

2d  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class. 

J 

I 

1 

_e 

3 

00 

1 

=• 

•z 

j 

1 

J 

X 

£       ; 

1 

li 

02        2 

I 

g 

5 

j 

= 
z 

03 

I 

-2 

3 

60 

2 

2| 

56 

2 

21 

50 

-2 

24 

48 

2 

24 

46 

2 

2 

46 

2 

2 

50 

2 

3 

76 

2 

24 

80 

•2 

2  66 

2 

2 

62 

22 

60 

g 

If 

60 

2 

If 

60 

2 

U 

46 

2 

24 

94 

n 

2| 

24 

2 

21  22 

2 

21 

20 

221 

18 

2 

»4 

16 

2 

24 

16 

2 

24 

12 

2 

21 

24 

1 

31 

8 

1 

3 

~ 

1 

3 

6 

13 

6 

1 

3 

6 

1 

3 

6 

_ 

_ 

1 

10 

1 

24 

22 

1 

2 

18 

1 

2 

16 

12 

16 

1 

2 

12 

1 

2 

12 

_ 

_ 

_ 

1 

21 

32 

2  2" 

20 

2 

M 

20 

2 

11 

20 

2 

U 

20 

2 

14 

18 

2 

14 

18 

2 

14 

14 

2 

2 

30 

2  31 

82 

2 

34 

68 

2 

3 

64 

2 

3 

63' 

2 

2f 

62 

2 

2f 

60 

o 

36 

2 

31 

98 

2  3 

79 

•2 

3 

62 

2 

2j 

56 

o 

2* 

54 

2 

24 

50 

2 

21 

48 

2 

24 

72 

2 

3 

98 

a!  3 

42 

2 

3 

40 

2 

3;> 

2 

2f 

37 

2 

•2* 

30 

2 

2| 

30 

2 

32 

2 

3 

44 

a  24 

54 

2 

24 

42 

•2 

2 

41 

2 

2 

40 

2 

If 

36 

2 

if 

36 

2 

U 

40 

2 

24 

58 

i 

2  3i 

50 

2 

3 

40 

2 

3 

40 

2 

3 

40 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

2 

3i 

60 

2  31 

35 

2 

3i 

30 

2 

34 

30 

2 

34 

30 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

31 

40 

i 

i 

2 

4 

52 

2 

31 

44 

a 

3* 

42 

2 

3 

41 

2 

2f 

36 

2 

2f 

36 

1 

24 

15 

2 

31 

68 

1 

4 

35 

1 

31 

31 

i 

34 

30 

1 

3 

29 

1 

2| 

27 

1 

2| 

26 

1 

2* 

2o 

1 

4* 

40 

1 

4 

42 

1 

31 

37 

i 

34 

35 

1 

3 

33 

1 

2| 

31 

1 

2f 

29 

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— 

1 

4 

53 

2 

2 

20 

2 

2 

16 

2 

2 

14 

2 

2 

14 

2 

11 

14 

2 

U 

14 

- 

- 

2 

2 

20 

1 

5 

44 

1 

41 

39 

1 

4 

37 

1 

4 

36 

1 

3* 

33 

1 

31 

30 

I 

3 

34 

1 

5 

54 

I 

54 

44 

1 

41 

41 

1 

44 

36 

1 

H 

35 

1 

3f 

34 

1 

3f 

34 

1 

3 

35 

1 

5? 

55 

- 

91 

1 

81 

1 

3| 

8 

1 

3f 

1 

31 

7 

1 

31 

7 

- 

- 

- 

1 

4! 

12 

2 

21 

8 

2 

24 

7 

a 

24 

7 

•2 

24 

1 

2 

2 

6 

2 

2 

6 

2 

2 

6 

2 

24 

8 

2)  2 

2 

0 

2 

2 

0 

2 

2 

2 

-2 

2 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

2 

2 

5  34 

3 

1 

3 

21 

1 

3 

2 

1 

3 

2 

1 

2i 

o 

-. 

1 

21 

c 

1 

2 

2 

1 

31 

3 

2  3 

42 

2 

2! 

36 

2 

21 

34 

2 

21 

33 

2 

24 

30 

2 

24 

30 

2 

2 

2-3 

2 

3 

45 

2  24 

102 

£ 

2 

80 

2 

2 

75 

'2 

2  '  74 

2 

48 

o 

24 

48 

2  2 

52 

2 

Ol 

132 

1   2f 

45 

1 

21 

35 

1 

24 

32 

1 

2 

30 

1 

2 

25 

1 

25 

-  - 

1 

2| 

54 

a  34 

50 

o 

34 

46 

2 

3 

42 

2 

3 

41 

2 

2f 

40 

2 

2f 

38 

2  2 

44 

2 

31 

60 

2  2 

74 

g 

H 

60 

•2 

U 

56 

2 

11 

54 

2 

U 

42 

2 

li 

42 

2   li 

48 

2 

2 

80 

2i  2 

74 

2 

If 

62 

2 

U 

58 

•j 

U 

54 

•2 

n 

53 

o 

4 

14 

52 

2,  li 

54 

2 

2 

84 

2}  24 

36 

1 

24 

17 

1 

2 

15 

1 

2 

14 

1 

u 

14 

1 

if 

14 

J  _ 

_ 

2 

24 

46 

2)  2 

20 

c 

**• 

if 

16 

2 

U 

15 

2 

U 

14 

2 

14 

12 

x 

14 

12 

_ 

2 

2 

20 

1   2 

17 

1 

If 

16 

1 

15 

1 

15 

1 

14 

13 

1 

14 

13 

_  _ 

_ 

1 

2 

22 

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22 

l 

2 

20 

1 

If 

19 

1 

If 

18 

1 

u 

17 

l 

11 

17 

l    H 

IS 

1 

24 

26 

74 

C 
4 

24 

62 

2  24 

58 

2 

24 

56 

2 

24 

54 

2 

24 

52 

2  2 

70 

2 

21 

92 

i  2} 

22 

c 

SI 

21 

20 

2,  24 

20 

2 

24 

20 

•2 

a 

16 

2 

2 

16 

2 

2 

36 

2 

2* 

28 

2]  24  46 

c 

A 

2 

38 

2 

2 

37 

o 

2 

36 

2 

if 

32 

2 

If 

32 

2 

If 

32 

2 

24 

46 

i 

1      i 

i 

I 

• 

1   34   30 

1 

3 

28 

1 

3 

26 

1 

21 

24 

1 

21 

22 

1 

2i  21 

228 
11  2{|  40 

2   U 
1   2| 

8 
34 

2 

1 

1? 

21 

8 
34 

•2 

1 

H     8 
21  1  33 

2 
1 

14 
24 

32 

s*i  ^ 

348    A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Names  of  Rigging. 

Snips  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frigates* 

3   DECKS. 

2   DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

1. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

I 

1 

I 

c 

§ 

00 

1 

t 

S 

02 

f 

a 

1 

.i 

I 

* 

,01  .2 

1 

F'RE  ROYAL  MAST 

&  YARD  GEAR.  Con. 

Backstays  (pair)  -    - 
Yardrope    -    -    -    - 

1 
1 

4 
3f 

62 
62 

1 

1 

4 

3f 

60 
60 

I 
1 

4 

34 

57 

58 

1 
1 

4 

34 

60 
60 

1 

1 

CO  CO 

54 
54 

Jackstays  (Iron)  -    - 
Foot  Ropes  -    -    -    - 
Parrel     -    -    -    -    - 

2 

1 

21 

14 

7 
2 

2 
1 

2f 
14 

7 
2 

2 

1 

2* 

14 

7 
2 

1 

2f 
14 

7 
2 

2 

24 
14 

6 
2 

T  ift<! 

2 

3 

58 

2 

3 

56 

2 

3 

52 

2 

24 

52 

2 

24 

48 

2 

2? 

104 

2 

2| 

106 

2 

2| 

86 

2 

24 

86 

2 

24 

78 

Halliards    -    -    -    - 

1 

•^4 

2i 

37 

1 

24 

33 

1 

2* 

32 

1 

2* 

33 

1 

2 

30 

QVipptss 

2 

3 

44 

2 

3 

40 

2 

3 

40 

2 

3 

40 

2 

21 

33 

Clew-lines  -    -    -    - 

2 

24 

48 

2 

24 

46 

2 

2* 

46 

2 

2* 

46 

2 

**1 

2 

42 

o 

Oi 

114 

2 

2i 

110 

2 

O  i 

101 

2 

2 

103 

2 

2 

100 

Bunt-line     -    -    -    - 

1 

24 

27 

1 

24 

25 

1 

2* 

24 

1 

2* 

24 

1 

2 

22 

Tripping-line  -    -    - 

1 

2 

30 

1 

2 

30 

1 

2 

28 

1 

2 

29 

1 

2 

26 

FORE    TRY-SAIL 

M'ST&GAFFG'AR. 

Peak  Halliards    -    - 

1 

3! 

63 

1 

3! 

60 

1 

3| 

53 

1 

34 

56 

1 

34 

58 

Throat  Halliards 

1 

3* 

45 

1 

3i 

45 

1 

39 

1 

3* 

42 

1 

3* 

38 

2 

3 

68 

2 

24 

60 

2 

3* 

56 

2 

3 

58 

2 

24 

56 

Peak  Brails  (pairs  oi) 

2 

2 

88 

2 

2 

80 

2 

2 

78 

2 

2 

78 

2 

2 

74 

Throat  Brails  (p'rs  of) 

1 

34 

44 

1 

34 

42 

1 

34 

40 

1 

34 

40 

1 

3i 

38 

Middle  Brails  (p'rs  oi) 
Foot  Brails  (pairs  of) 

1 
1 
2 

3 
3 
4 

38 
44 
91 

1 
1 

2 

3 
3 
4 

3G 
40 

90 

1 

1 
2 

2! 
3 
34 

36 

40 

85 

1 
1 

2 

2! 
2* 

34 

36 

40 

85 

1 

1 

2 

24 
24 
34 

32 
34 
78 

MAIN-MAST     AND 

*^S 

**2 

YARD  GEAR. 

Pendants  (pairs)  -    - 

2 

104 

11 

2 

10| 

10* 

2 

10 

10 

2 

10 

10 

2 

10 

10 

Warps. 

Shrouds  (pairs)    -    - 
Lanyards  for  Shrouds 

11 
22 

10J 
54 

(  m 

J113 

220 

10 

20 

10* 

$142 
$147 

200 

10 
20 

10 
5 

$127 
$133 

170 

10 
20 

10 
5 

U35 
$141 

170 

10 

20 

10 
5 

a2i 

170 

Qtatrc 

o 

i  ^ 

KX 

o 

15 

2 

!4i 

R() 

0 

;4.i 

PL1 

o 

14 

Rl 

Futtock  Shrouds  -    - 

£ 

12 

10 
64 

UJ 

39 

m 
12 

64 

36 

12 

i<i$ 

6 

*J\J 

30 

,1 

itj 

6 

c/JL 

30 

i0 
10 

L*± 

51 

ell 

25 

Slings  Proper  (to  go 
over   Cap)  —  Chain 

for  all  vessels    -    - 

Slings,  Preventer 

1 

12 

12 

] 

12 

11 

1 

114 

10 

1 

114 

10 

1 

10 

94 

Lanyard   for    Slings 

(four-stranded)-    - 
Pendant  Tackle  Falls* 

1 
2 

5 
4 

22 
120 

1 
2 

5 

4 

22 
114 

1 

2 

4f 
4 

21 

108 

1 

2 

3f 

21 
112 

1 

2 

4| 
3f 

20 
104 

Runner  -    -    -    -    - 

1 

8 

24 

1 

8 

23 

1 

8 

22 

1 

7 

22 

1 

7 

18 

Falls  for  Runner  -    - 

1   4 

59 

1 

4 

59 

1 

4 

59 

1 

3! 

59 

1 

31 

44 

Jeer  Falls    -    -    -    - 

3  5| 

140 

2 

5! 

136 

2 

54 

130 

2 

134 

2 

5 

110 

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34 

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2 

5*     20 

2 

5* 

19 

2 

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19 

2  5 

19 

2 

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•  All  small  vessels  which  are  not  allowed  Jeers  and  Top  Tackle  Falls,  the  Pendai  t  Tackle  Falh 


tton'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S,  N.-Cbn.  349 


rigatea. 

Sloops. 

Brigs. 

Brig- 

a  11  ti  lies 

Schoon- 
ers. 

Steamers, 

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may  be  increased  in  size  one-fourth  in  addition  to  the  specified  size  in  the  foregoing  Table. 


350    A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Names  of  Rigging* 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frigates. 

3   DECKS. 

2   DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

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34 

8 

8 

34 

8 

6 

3 

6 

6 

3 

6 

G 

3 

6 

Truss  Pendants  (hide) 

2 

7 

23 

2 

7 

22 

2 

64 

21 

2 

64 

21 

2 

64 

18 

Falls  for  Truss  Pen- 

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O  i 

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2 

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168 

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Sheets  (tapered)    -    - 
Clew  Garnets  -    -    - 

2 
2 
2 

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64 
64 
4 

90 
94 

90 

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4 

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86 
84 

2 
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2 

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70 
74 

80 

2 
2 

2 

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64 
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72 
76 
84 

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2 
2 

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6 
6 
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70 
74 
74 

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Bow-line)     -    -    - 

1 

44 

8 

1 

44 

7 

1 

44 

7 

1 

44 

7 

1 

4 

6 

Whip  for  Runner      - 
Reef  Pendants      -    - 

1 

34 

44 

18 
12 

1 

3 

44 

15 

12 

1 
2 

3 

44 

15 
12 

1 

2 

3 
44 

15 
12 

1 
2 

3 

15 
10 

Bunt-lines  (pairs)     - 
Bunt-line  Whips 

2 

34 

3 

68 

72 

c 

34 
3 

68 
62 

2 

2 

3 

2| 

60 
62 

2 
2 

3 
2| 

62 
62 

2 
2 

3* 

2| 

60 
62 

Leech-lines      -    -    - 

4 

3 

128 

4 

3 

116 

4 

2| 

112 

4 

2| 

116 

4 

24 

108 

After  Leech-lines 

4 

3 

108 

/ 

3 

106 

4 

2f 

98 

4 

2| 

100 

4 

24 

84 

Slab-line     -    -    -    - 

1 

24 

23 

1 

24 

23 

1 

24 

23 

1 

23 

1 

24 

21 

Clew  Jiggers  -    -    - 

2 

3 

98 

2 

3 

96 

2 

2* 

88 

2 

2f 

92 

2 

2| 

80 

Lift  Jiggers     -    -    - 

2 

34 

36 

2 

34 

36 

2 

3 

36 

2 

3 

36 

2 

3 

34 

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2 

2f 

52 

e 

2! 

50 

2 

24 

42 

2 

24 

44 

2 

24 

40 

Boom  Jiggers  (in  anc 
out)     ----- 

2 

3 

74 

e 

3 

66 

2 

3 

62 

•2 

3 

64 

2 

2f 

60 

Bunt  Whip      -    -    - 

1 

24 

2S 

1 

24 

27 

1 

24 

26 

1 

24 

27 

1 

24 

22 

MAIN  TOP-MAST  & 

YARD  GEAR. 

Shrouds  and  Pendants 

(pairs^)     -    -    -    - 
Lanyards     for    Pen- 

6 

7 

135 

G 

7 

130 

6 

7 

131 

G 

64 

131 

5 

6 

100 

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10 

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12 

Si 

84 

12 

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8 

92 

5 

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8 

Lrx 

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2 

74 

86 

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2 

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2 

7 

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StSVS        m           ~                         -           — 

4 

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52 

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Qs 

52 

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4 

34   R0 

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(pairs)     -    --- 

2 

10 

96 

2 

10 

96 

2 

Oj, 
10 

92 

2 

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40 

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4 

5 

40 

4 

5 

40 

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Cat-Harpen  Legs 

2 

44 

4 

i 

44 

4 

c 

44 

4 

2 

44 

4 

2 

44 

4 

Top-Burtons    -    -    - 

2 

3* 

192 

{ 

3j 

180 

c 

34 

174 

2 

34178 

2 

34 

162 

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2 

44 

8 

5 

44 

8 

g 

44 

8 

2 

44 

8 

2 

4 

7 

Top  Tackle  Pendants 

2 

9 

58 

2 

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55 

2 

9 

47 

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84 

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Top  Tackle  Falls     - 

2 

5 

170 

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160 

f 

5 

145 

2 

4? 

150 

2 

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Foot  Ropes  -    -'    -    - 

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4 

17 

2 

4 

16 

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4 

15 

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15 

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7 

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hide^   - 

2 

7 

42 

2 

7 

40 

o 

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3, 

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9 

64 

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Run'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S,  ».-  Con.  35] 


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Brigs. 

Brig- 
anttnes 

Scliooii 
ers. 

Steamers. 

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2u  Class. 

3d  Class. 

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2[  6J     41 

352    A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Names  of  Rigging.  ! 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frigates. 

3   DECKS. 

2   DECKS. 

1st  C.ass. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

i 

8 

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d 
s. 

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YARD  GEAR.  Con. 

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120 
88 
106 
78 
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114 
112 
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74 

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61 

64 
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118 
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98 
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28 
108 
104 
50 

68 

68 
27 
57 

20 

60 

61 
14 

10 
2 
3 

56 
116 
60 
68 
90 
85 
50 
24 
22 
30 

98 

2 

1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
2 
"2 
n 

2 

2 

2 
1 
1 

2 
1 

1 
1 

2 
o 

1 

C 

2 
1 
n 

o 
3i 

9 
g 
1 
1 

9 

4 

4 

3 
7 
44 
64 
31 
34 
31 
4f 

34 
24 
3 
4 
3 
24 
4 
34 
3* 

2! 

5 
5 
5 

2f 
6 

6 

54 

3 
24 
4 
34 

24 
3 
4J 
24 
2 

24 
2J 

24 
24 

34 

120 

20 
34 
120 
79 
99 
70 
72 
15 

78 
100 
24 
10 
35 
28 
104 
98 
50 

67 

67 
26 
55 

20 
57 

58 
13 

10 

2 
3 

56 

104 
59 
66 
88 
82 
46 
24 
22 
27 

97 

2 

1 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
2 
1 
1 
2 

I 

2 
2 

2 

1 
1 

2 

1 

1 

2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
1 

2 

4 

3 
64 
44 
6| 

3* 

34 

3f 

4? 

3| 

24 
3 
4 
3 
24 
4 
34 
34 

2| 

5 
5 

44 

24 
6 

5! 

54 

3 

2} 

34 
24 
3 
44 
24 
2 
24 
2i 
24 
24 

3* 

124 

20 
34 
122 
81 
102 
70 
74 
15 

80 
104 
24 
10 
35 
28 
108 
102 
50 

68 

67 
26 
56 

20 
59 

60 
13 

10 
2 
3 
56 
106 
60 
68 
90 
83 
46 
24 
22 
28 

98 

2 

1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
1 
1 

rx 

1 
1 

2 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
^ 

1 

1 

a 

3S 

3 

6 
4 
6 

34 
34 
34 

44 

3i 
2* 
21 
4 
2| 
2 
3f 
34 
3* 

24 
44 

% 

24 
54 

54 
5i 

2f 
2 
34 
34 
24 
2f 
4 
2 
2 
24 
2 
'24 
24 

.3 

122 

18 
31 
100 
78 
90 
64 
68 
13 

76 
96 

24 
9 
28 
24 
98 
94 
48 

64 

60 
24 

50 

20 
53 

53 

12 

9 
2 
3 
50 

100 
56 
64 

84 
78 
42 
20 
21 
26 

92 

Rolling  Tackle    -    - 

T  ifto                        „       .       . 

Clew-lines  -    -    -    - 

Bow-lines    -    -    -    - 
Bunt-lines  -    -    -    - 
Reef  Pend'ts  (all  hide) 
Whips  for  Reef  Pen- 

Clew  Jiggers  -    -    - 
Lift  Jiggers     -    -    - 
Bunt-runner     -    -    - 
Jigger  for  Bunt-runner 
Boom  Tricing-lines  - 
Studding-s'l  Halliards 
Studding-sail  Tacks 
Studding-sail  Sheets 
Studding-sail   Down- 

2 
2 
1 
1 

2 
2 
g 

2 

2 
1 
1 

2 
1 

1 
1 

2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
o 

2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
1 

2 

MAIN  TOP-GAL'NT 
M'ST&  YARD  GEAR 

Shrouds  (pairs)    -    - 

<3l"aV 

Breast  Backstays  (pr.) 
Falls  for  Breast  Back- 

Standing     Backstays 
(pair)       -    -    -"- 
I*cng  Yard,  or  Mast 
Rope   
Short  Mast  Rope  -    - 
Jackstays  (Iron)  -    - 
Foot  Ropes  .... 

Parrel     -    -    - 

I  ifta 

ItMjTAfl 

Halliards    .... 

Si*    aptc 

Clew-lines  -    -    -    - 
Bow-lines    -    -    -    - 
Bunt-lines  -    -    -     - 
Lift  Jiggers      -    -    - 
Bunt  Jigger     -    -    - 
Tripping-line  -    -    - 
Studding-sail      Hal- 

Ron'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S,  N.-Cbn.  353 


rigates. 

Sloops. 

Brigs. 

Brig. 

antiues 

Schoou- 
ers. 

Steamers, 

d  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class. 

1 

J 

i 

I 

J 

_=• 

BO 

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j 

c 

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f 

c 
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c 

1 

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j 

c 

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t 

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J 

1 

j 

3* 

100 

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34 

90 

2 

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80 

9 

3 

76 

1 

3 

34 

1 

24 

43 

1 

24 

34 

<« 

34 

100 

2J 

16 

1 

2* 

14 

l 

13 

1 

01 

19 

1 

2 

12 

Ro 

1 

•? 

T 

Ro 

oe 

T 

l'  2| 

15 

30 

9 

5 

28 

2 

5 

27 

2 

5 

26 

2 

H 

22 

2 

3? 

18 

2 

3J 

18 

2 

51 

35 

3a 

100 

9 

34 

92 

9 

3i 

90 

9 

3 

88 

9 

24 

64 

•2 

24 

64 

2 

64 

2 

34 

90 

5J 

70 

3 

54 

58 

9 

5 

54 

2 

5 

50 

2 

4 

52 

2 

34 

46 

234 

46 

2 

5| 

71 

3i 

80 

9 

3 

70 

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3 

66 

9 

3 

64 

2 

2; 

60 

9 

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52 

22 

52 

2 

86 

58 

2 

3 

50 

2 

3 

44 

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2f 

43 

9 

24 

42 

9 

2 

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2 

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12 

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34 

74 

31 

60 

2 

3 

54   2 

3 

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9 

3 

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9 

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44 

1 

9 

22 

1 

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66 

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12 

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4 

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4 

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9 

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62 

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9 

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22 

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19 

1 

18 

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17 

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14 

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16 

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1 

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7 

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36 

9 

2i 

31 

2 

3 

24 

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2 

3 

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2? 

88 

2 

2 

76 

2  2 

66 

2 

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65 

•2 

2 

50 

9 

9 

48 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

2? 

94 

24 

48 

1 

34 

40 

i;  2f  38 

1 

2 

36 

1 

2 

26 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

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— 

1 

2ff 

54 

3| 

56 

2 

31 

50 

2,  34   46 

2 

34 

44 

9 

2f 

41 

2 

24 

44 

_ 

2 

3| 

60 

2 

78 

2 

l|   66 

2|  14   58 

2 

H 

55 

9 

14 

44 

2 

li 

46 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

2 

80 

2 

68 

9 

2     64 

2|  If 

56 

9 

if 

53 

9 

1! 

48 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

9 

2 

86 

24   38 

l 

2f  18 

1   24 

16 

1 

16 

1 

2 

30 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

•2 

2? 

46 

2     Oft 

2 

1  * 

16 

2*  I1 

16 

2 

11 

1  ^ 

o 

12 

2 

2 

on 

2 

19 

1 

11 

17 

«    ij 

i:  14 

15 

1 

1  u 

u 

15 

1 

14 

13 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

— 

1 

2 

4\j 

23 

2i 

24 

1 

2 

22 

ll  U 

20 

1 

u 

19 

1 

14 

19 

1 

l 

18 

_ 

_ 

_ 

1 

21 

26 

!  2| 

80 

2 

2| 

70 

2)  24 

64 

9 

aj 

60 

2 

24 

58 

- 

_ 

1 

_ 

22i 

93 

354    1  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Ships  of  the  Line. 

i 

Privates. 

» 

2   DECKS. 

Razees. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

Names  of  Rigging. 

JS 

^ 

.c 

^ 

. 

• 

o 

8 

in 

bjQ 

| 

a 

a 

s 

g 

02 

a 

| 

(0 
00 

S 

o 

S 

I 

MAIN  TOP-GAL'NT 

i 

M.  &Y'DGEAR.  Con 

Studding-sail  Sheets 
Studding-sail  Tacks 

2 

2 

CO  CO 

33 

70 

2   3i 
2  3 

30 
64 

2 

2 

3} 
3 

28 
64 

2 
2 

3* 

30 
64 

2 
2 

3 

24 

28 
60 

MAIN  ROYAL  M'ST 

&  YARD  GEAR. 

Shrouds  (pair)      -    - 
Falls  for  Shrouds 

1 

2 

4 

2 

42 
10 

1 

2 

4 

2 

40 
10 

1 

5 

4 
2 

40 
10 

1 

2 

4 
2 

40 
10 

1 
2 

34 
2 

36 

8 

1 

3~ 

34 

1 

3x 

31 

1 

3~ 

30 

1 

3~ 

30 

1 

3 

28 

Backstays  (pair)  -    - 
Yardrope    -    -    -    - 

1 
1 

4 

69 
71 

1 
1 

4 
3! 

68 
70 

1 

1 

4 

65 
64 

1 

1 

4 
34 

67 
66 

1 
1 

3! 
3i 

60 
62 

Jackstays  (Iron)  -    - 
Foot  Ropes  -    -    -    - 

2 
1 

H 

8 
2 

2 

1 

H 

8 
2 

2 
1 

21 
H 

7 

2 
1 

2! 
H 

7 
2 

2 
1 

24 
H 

6 
2 

9 

3 

62 

2 

3 

60 

o 

3 

60 

9 

60 

24 

54 

9 

72 

9, 

70 

64 

9 

94 

64 

o 

56 

Halliards    .... 

1 

24 

43 

1 

24 

42 

] 

2i 

37 

1 

2} 

38 

2i 

35 

9 

3} 

48 

g 

3* 

46 

c 

Ol 

44 

0 

3 

44 

0 

o 

42 

Clew-lines  -    -    -    - 

2 

24 

53 

2 

24 

52 

o 

24 

50 

2 

2} 

50 

2 

2i 

48 

Bow-lines    -    -    -    - 

2 

2* 

72 

2 

2? 

64 

2 

2} 

58 

2 

2 

64 

2 

2 

60 

B  ant-lines  -    -    -    - 

1 

24 

28 

1 

24 

27 

1 

25 

1 

2 

27 

1 

2 

24 

Tripping-line  -    -    - 
Main-boom  Topping- 

1 

2 

34 

1 

2 

33 

1 

2 

31 

1 

2 

32 

1 

2 

29 

lilts     -    -    -    -    - 
Falls  for  Main-boom 

MAIN    TRY-SAIL 

M'ST  &  GAFF  G'AR 

Peak  Halliards    -    - 

1 

34 

63 

1 

34 

63 

1 

34 

59 

1 

34 

63 

1 

3} 

48 

Throat  Halliards 

34 

48 

i 

34 

48 

] 

3* 

42 

1 

3^ 

46 

1 

3 

43 

•*T 

3 

68 

9 

3 

HO 

2 

58 

v 

s 

60 

r 

MI 

96 

Peak  Brails  (pairs)  - 
Throat  Brails  (pairs) 

24 
34 

42 

46 

1 
1 

24 
34 

38 
43 

24 

37 
42 

1 
1 

?t 

38 
43 

i 
i 

3 

36 
38 

Middle  Brails  (pairs) 
Foot  Brails  (pairs)   - 

o 

2* 
3 
4 

38 
36 
62 

1 
1 

9 

22 
3 
4 

34 
34 
60 

1 

3* 

34 
34 

60 

1 
1 
2 

24 
21 

34 
34 
60 

i 
i 

24 

24 

32 
34 
54 

..,     - 

8 

Boom  Tackle  for  Out 

Reef  Pendants  for  Out 

Reef  Tackle  for  Out 

hauler      -    -    -    - 

— 

'    - 

— 

— 

- 

- 

- 

,  - 

— 

- 

- 

• 

M1ZEN-MAST&CR 

JACK  YARD  GEAR 

Shrouds  and  Pendants 

(pairs')     -    -    -    - 
Lanyards  for  Shrouds 

6 

8 

144 

6 

8 

143 

G 

'74 

136 

6 

74 

136 

c 

7 

136' 

and  Pendants    -    - 

12 

4 

96 

12 

4 

96 

12 

3! 

84 

12  3| 

84 

12 

34 

84 

3tav  ....-- 

" 

9J 

19 

1 

941  18 

1 

9 

17 

1   9  !  18 

1 

9 

Rim'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S.  N.-Cojt.  355 


rigatfs. 

Sloops. 

Brig- 
at»  tines 

Schoon- 
ers. 

iteaiuer* 

d  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

Brigs. 

3d  Class. 

JL 

d 

A 
1 

i 

a 

•j. 

•§. 

i 

7. 

* 

| 

— 

J. 

j 

J 

1 

j 

* 

K 

€ 
J. 

j 

1 

J 

2i 

26 

2 

2i 

22 

'2 

2? 

20 

2 

20 

2 

2 

18 

2 

2? 

28 

84 

50 

2 

2 

42 

'2 

2 

40 

2 

2 

38 

2 

If 

33 

"* 

- 

~ 

- 

2 

24 

32 

3} 

32 

1 

3 

30 

1 

3 

27 

1 

2', 

26 

1 

21 

22 

8 

2    H     8  2   l| 

8 

2 

1  A 

8 

2 

7 

3 

25 

1    2j    23    1    ,: 

20 

1 

2L 

19 

1 

2? 

17 

54 

1 

3?   48 

1   3 

42 

1 

3" 

42 

1 

3 

37 

3 

54 

1 

2f  j  46 

1 

43 

1 

2i 

42 

1 

2* 

39 

24 

6 

2 

21      5 

2 

2} 

5 

o 

24 

5 

2 

2 

5 

2 

1 

14     2 

1 

14 

2 

1 

U 

2 

1 

H 

li 

50 

2 

24   42   2 

38 

•2 

2 

37 

22 

32" 

2i    52 

2 

2     42    2 

2* 

39 

2 

2 

37 

22 

38 

2 

32 

2f 

38 

2 

34 

2 

2? 

32 

2 

2 

30 

212 

28 

2 

44 

2   li   38 

2 

4 

36 

2 

H 

34    2H 

30 

U 

52 

2 

U 

44 

2 

H 

42 

2 

H 

42 

2 

1 

38 

2 

22 

U 

26 

1 

li 

23 

1 

u 

22 

1 

IS 

21 

1 

M 

19 

2 

4 

30 

2 

5 

40 

o 

5 

40 

2 

0? 

30 

n 

j 

36 

2 

3 

QC 

-4 

A 

ro 

3 

40 

j 

21 

34 

T 

2t 

31 

1 

? 

30 

1 

34 

44 

1 

>f 

54 

1 

3f 

54 

1 

3 

41 

2| 

38 

1 

2| 

33 

1 

31 

1 

30 

1 

34 

28 

1 

34 

34 

38 

1 

2| 

44 

2i 

52 

2 

2 

48 

2 

1? 

46 

2 

If 

44 

2 

2i 

42 

2 

24 

")6      -2 

24 

30 

2 

58 

2 

34 

1 

2 

32 

1 

U 

30 

1 

if 

28 

2 

li 

64 

1 

2 

42 

1 

2 

40 

1 

2? 

40 

22 

36 

1 

2f 

32 

1 

30 

1 

28 

1 

34 

34 

1 

^i 

40 

1 

34 

38 

1 

2| 

36 

24 

30 

1 

2 

28 

1 

If 

26 

1 

1  1 

24 

1 

If 

31 

1 

2* 

34 

1 

2 

34 

1 

24 

38 

24 
3| 

28 
44 

1 
2 

2 
3 

26    1 
34   2 

2 
3 

24 
32 

1 
2 

2 
3 

22 
31 

1 
2 

3* 

30 
60 

1 
1 

? 

38 
35 

1 
1 

24 

36 
35 

1 

2 

34 

32 

52 

1 

ji 

22 

i 

25 

1 

4 

26 

j  _ 

0 

°4 

01 

. 

0 

-i 
»i 

60 

0 

o- 

Bv 

•^ 

2 

-2 
%1 

** 

o 

«i 

*r 

2 

-4 
-jl 

1 

1 

J5 

3 

15 

i 

Q 

1C 

1 

1 

3 

1C 

i 

O 

1  C 

i 

1C 

»   6| 

)  34 

ft 

98 

70 
Ifi 

5 

10 
i 

6 
3 

74 

80 

70 
i/l 

5  5i 
10'  2| 

1     7i 

785 

7010 
13    i 

5i 

21 

74 

76 

1   12 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

5 

10 
1 

6i 

ST 

M 

103 

81 
11 

356 


A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Names  of  Rigging. 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Frigate*. 

3    DECKS. 

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Lift  Jiggers     -    -    -  : 

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Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frigates. 

Names  of  Rigging. 

3   DECKS. 

2   DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

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MIZENTOP-M'ST& 
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Bunt-runner     -    -    - 
Jigger-fall  for  Bunt- 
runner     -    -    -    - 

MIZ.  TOP-GALL'NT 
M'ST&  YARD  GEAR 

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Breast  Backstays  (pr.) 
Falls  for  Breast  Back- 

Standing     Backstays 
(pair)       -    ... 
Long  Yard,  or  Mast 

Rrvnp 

Short  Mast  Rope  -    - 
Jackstays  (Iron)  -    - 
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r  ifts  - 

Halliards    -    ... 

Shfipte 

Clew-lines  -    -    .    - 

Bunt-lines  -    -    -    - 
Lift  Jiggers      -     -    - 
Bunt  Jiggers    -    -    - 
Tripping-line  -    -    - 

MIZ.  ROYAL  MAST 
&  YARD  GEAR. 

Shrouds  (pair)      -    - 
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Boiir-liiies    -    -    .    - 
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SPANKER    BOOM 
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360    A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Ships  of  the  Line. 

Frigates. 

2   DECKS. 

Razees. 

3   DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

Names  of  Rigging. 

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2f 

31 

Foot  Ropes  -    -    -    - 

2 

3 

11 

2 

3 

11 

2 

3 

10 

2 

3 

10 

2 

2f 

10 

Sheets     

2 

34 

74 

2 

34 

70 

2 

34 

70 

2 

34 

70 

2 

3 

58 

Outhauler   -    -    -    - 

1 

4 

33 

1 

4 

32 

1 

4 

31 

1 

4 

31 

1 

3| 

30 

Peak  Halliards    -    - 

1 

31 

67 

1 

31 

66 

1 

3f 

64 

1 

3! 

66 

1 

34 

GO 

Throat  Halliards 

1 

34 

40 

1 

34 

39 

1 

34 

38 

1 

34 

39 

1 

3 

37 

\T      -r»  rro 

2 

3 

60 

i) 

3 

56 

2 

3 

Cff 

2 

3 

p.c 

9 

03 

48 

Peak  Brails     -    -    - 

2 

2 

82 

g 

2 

80 

n 

2 

78 

2 

2 

oo 

79 

A 

2 

*? 

2 

7G 

Throat  Brails  -    -    - 

1 

34 

45 

1 

34 

44 

1 

34 

42 

1 

34 

43 

1 

34 

38 

Middle  Brails  -    -    - 

1 

24 

41 

1 

24 

40 

1 

24 

40 

1 

24 

40 

1 

24 

34 

Foot  Brails      -    -    - 

1 

3 

39 

1 

3 

38 

1 

3 

38 

1 

3 

38 

1 

36 

GAFF    TOP-SAIL 

GEAR. 

FTsllinrrlc 

xlaiiicircLS     - 

MISCELLANEOUS 

GEAR. 

i 

Braces,     Preventer 

(Lower  Yards)  -    - 

2 

3| 

116 

2 

3! 

116 

2 

3* 

116 

2 

34 

116 

2 

34 

113 

Braces,      Preventer 

(Top-sail  Yards)  - 

2 

34 

112 

2 

34 

112 

2 

34 

112 

2 

3 

112 

2 

3 

108 

Gleets,  Iron,  for  Tops 

3G 

— 

_ 

3G 

_ 

_ 

3G 

_ 

3G 

_ 

_ 

3G 

__ 

_ 

Chain  Slings  for  Top- 

sail Yards    -    -    - 

3 

— 

_ 

3 

— 

_ 

3 

_ 

_ 

3 

_ 

_ 

3 

_ 

_ 

Chain  Slings  for  Gaff 

6 

— 

_ 

G 

— 

_ 

G 

_ 

_ 

6 

_ 

_ 

G 

__ 

_ 

Falls,  Cat    ---    - 

2 

6 

130 

2 

6 

130 

2 

6 

125 

2 

5! 

125 

2 

54 

120 

Falls,  Fish  —  the  sizes 

and  lengths  given  for 

Sloops,  Brigs  &  Sch. 

are  for  Fish  Pend'nts 

2 

4? 

140 

2 

41 

140 

2 

41 

135 

2 

44 

135 

2 

44 

120 

Falls,  Stern  Boat  -    - 

4 

34 

120 

4 

34 

120 

4 

34 

120 

4 

3 

116 

4 

3 

112 

Falls,  duarter  Boats 

4 

Sf 

160 

4 

3* 

160 

4 

3f 

160 

4 

3! 

160 

4 

34 

150 

Falls,  Waist  Boats   - 

4 

3| 

135 

4 

3* 

135 

4 

3f 

135 

4 

34 

132 

4 

34 

132 

Falls,  Deck  Tackle  - 

1 

44 

65 

1 

44 

65 

1 

44 

65 

1 

4 

62 

1 

4 

62 

Falls,  Stock  and  Bill 

Tackles   .... 

2 

34 

60 

2 

34 

GO 

2 

34 

60 

2 

34 

58 

2 

34   58 

Falls,  Luff  Tackles  - 
Falls,  Stay  Luff  Tack. 

30 
4 

4 
4 

300 
100 

30 
4 

4 
4 

300 
100 

30 
4 

4 
4 

300 
100 

30 
4 

3f 

300 
100 

30 

4 

3|  300 
3*100 

Falls,  Jiggers  ... 

8 

2| 

160 

8 

2f 

160 

8 

2! 

160 

8 

2f 

160 

8 

2fll60 

Fenders,  Boat  (Stuffed 

Leather)  —  one    set 

for  each  boat     -    - 

Futtock  Staves  (Iron) 

18 

_ 

.. 

18 

_ 

_ 

18 

_ 

_ 

18 

_ 

_ 

18 

_ 

_ 

Guys,  Fish  Davit 

4 

8 

20 

4 

8 

20 

4 

8 

20 

4 

74 

20 

4 

74 

20 

Guys,  Gluarter  Davit 

_ 

_ 

chaini 

Guys,  Waist    Davit 

_ 

_ 

chain 

Gripes,  Launch    -    - 
Girt-lines,  Fore  Mast- 

1 

6 

26 

1 

6 

26 

1 

5f 

26 

1 

5| 

25 

1 

54 

24 

head    

2 

34     96 

2 

34 

96 

2 

34 

96 

2 

34 

96 

2 

3 

90 

Rim'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S»  N.-Cbn.  361 


Frigates. 

Sloops. 

Brig- 

Schoon- 

2d Class. 

st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class. 

Brigs. 

autines 

ers. 

Steamer* 

.  i 

.  i 

1 

5 

5 

f 

i 

t 

?i 

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a 
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2 

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2 

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100 

2 

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100 

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45    1 

24 

45 

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34 

108 

2  2f  108 

2'  2| 

96 

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24 

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90 

2 

24 

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42    , 

24 

42 

2 

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30 

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— 

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31  - 

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3 

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3 

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_ 

3 

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2 

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_ 

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_ 

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2 

_ 

_ 

•2 

- 

9  - 

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6 

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6 

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6 

_ 

4- 

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4 

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4 

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6 

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100 

•2 

44 

95 

2 

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90 

•2 

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2 

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56 

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34 

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2 

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100 

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120 

2 

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14 

7 

2 

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2  3 

52 

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48 

2 

2f 

46 

o 

46 

4J 

2 

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40 

2 

24 

40 

2 

3 

52 

4 

3i 

140 

4 

3 

135 

4 

3 

130 

4 

34 

130 

421 

120 

4 

116 

4 

2f 

112 

4 

34 

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1 

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34 

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2 

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3 

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3 

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4 

24 

44 

2 

24 

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34 

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280 

24 

3  i  240 

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24 

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120  123 

1-20  28 

3J 

280 

4 

100 

4 

3^  100 

4 

34 

100 

4 

34100    43 

100    2 

3 

50    23 

50 

4 

3-j. 

100 

b 

^ 

160 

b 

2| 

160 

8 

2^ 

160 

b 

24 

160 

0 

n 

120 

6 

24 

120 

6 

120 

& 

24 

160 

IS 

18 

18 

18 

1-2 

10 

I  8 

18 

7 

1  Q 

—    Cr's 

Da 

vit. 

4 

7 

18 

1 

1 

54 

23 

1 

5 

22 

1 

4f 

21 

1 

41 

21 

1 

44 

20 

I 

44 

18 

1 

44 

18 

1 

54 

23 

U 

3  |  85 

;  2 

2,' 

801  2 

2f 

7G 

2 

2| 

76 

2 

24 

74 

o 

- 

24 

70 

2 

2J 

70 

c 

3 

95 

362    A  Table  showing  the  Length  and  Size  of  Standing  and 


Names  of  Rigging. 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frigates. 

1st  Class. 

3  DECKS. 

2   DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

I 

8 
m 

£ 
J 

6 
£ 

§ 

in 

A 

1 

1 

t 
J 

1 

8 

(B 

1 

c 

z 

J 

00 

! 

MISCELLANEOUS 
GEAR.  Con. 

Girt--ines,Main  Mast- 
].«o  ;    . 

2 

2 
10 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
52 
6 
4 

1 
2 

1 

2 

2 
6 

8 
4 
3 
4 
4 
4 
1 

2 

•? 

6 

2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 
I 

3i 

3 

3i 
2 

8 
12 

108 

88 
640 
2 
18 
20 

2 

2 
10 
2 
1 
1 
1 

3* 

3 

3i 
2 

7* 
11 

108 

88 
640 
2 
16 

18 

2 

2 
8 
2 
1 
1 

3i 

3 
3 

2 

7* 
11 

108 

88 
512 
2 
16 
18 

2 

2 
8 
2 
1 
1 
1 

3£ 

3 
3 

2 
7 
10 

108 

88 
512 

r 

15 
17 

2 

2 
6 
2 
1 
1 
1 

3 

2| 
3 
2 
6* 
10 

104 

86 
360 
2 
14 
16 

Girt-lines,  Miz.  Mast- 
head   -    -    -    -    - 
Girt-lines,  Hammock 
Hooks,  Can  (Iron)    - 
Hawse  Pend.  &  Hook 
Hawse  R'pe&  Shackle 
Halliards,  Signal  (set) 
Hooks,  Fish  (fr  anch.) 
Jacks,  Iron  (sets)  -    - 
Lines,Clothes(Manil.) 
Lines,  Tricing,  Ham. 
Nippers  (dozens  of)  - 
Rungs  for  Jacob  Lad- 
ders (set)  -    -    -    - 
Ropes,  Buoy    -    -    - 
Ropes,   Ridge,    Awn- 
ings (set  of)      -    - 
Ropes,  Old  (for  lash- 
ings) —  as  much  as 
may  be  required    - 
Ropes,  Back  ("for  Cat- 
Blocks)    -    -    -    - 
Rudder  Pendants  and 
Chains  —  as  may  be 
required)      -    -    - 
Stoppers,  Cat-head   - 
Stoppers,  Ring      -    - 
Stoppers,  Deck  (chain 
claw} 

0 

1 

24 
3i 

1560 
144 

52 
6 
/\ 

2* 
3* 

1560 
144 

50 
6 
/\ 

2* 

3 

1500 
144 

48 
6 

Si 
3 

1440 
144 

44 

6 

2* 
3 

1230 
132 

1 

7 

40 

2 

7 

40 

2 

7 

40 

2 

61 

40 

2 
1 

2 

2 
G 

8 
4 
3 
4 

6 

24 

9 
54 

3* 
4} 

94 

40 

25 

6 
16 

4fi 
32 
100 
9 

3 

10 
G 

3* 
5 

10 

30 

7 
18 

4  feet. 
32 
100 
9 

2 

2 
6 

8 
4 
3 
4 
\ 

3 

10 
6 

3* 
5 

10 

30 

7 
18 

4ft. 
32 
100 
9 

2 

2 
G 

8 
4 
3 
4 

3 

91 

51 

3* 
5 

10 

30 

7 
17 

4ft. 
32 
100 
9 

2 

2 
6 

8 
4 
3 
4 

3 

94 

54 

3* 
5 

94 

25 

6 
17 

4ft. 
32 
100 
9 

Stoppers,  Boats    -    - 
Stoppers,  Fighting,doz 
Stoppers,  Bit    -    -    - 
Strap  Selvagees  (doz.) 
Swabs  (dozens)    -    - 
Seines     -    - 

9 

4 

7 
4 
4 
7 
4 
8 
4 

80 

5 

chain 
chain 

chain 
90 
8 
60 
108 
8 
60 
20 
80 

1 
2 

6 

2 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 
1 
1 

9 

j 

4 
4 

7 
4 
8 
4 

80 
5 

90 
8 
60 
108 
8 
60 
20 
80 

1 

2 

6 

2 

2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 

84 

4 
7 
4 
4 
7 
4 
8 
4 

80 
5 

90 

8 
60 
108 
8 
60 
20 
80 

1 
2 

6 

2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 

84 

4 

7 
4 
4 
7 
4 
7* 
4 

70 
4 

JO 
8 
60 
108 
8 
60 
20 
80 

1 
2 

6 

2 
2 
1 

2 
2 
1 

1 
1 

8 

3| 
6f 
3| 
3| 
6| 
3| 

37f 

6C 
4 

88 

8 
5i 

ios» 
ft 

55 
19 

78 

Shank  Painters  (a  part 
(Chain)  -    -    -    - 
Spare,  Gluarter  Davit 
Spare,    Waist    Davit 
Travelers,    iron,     for 
Top-sail  Tyes  -    - 
Topping-lifts  fr  Quar- 
ter Davits     ... 
Tackle,  Fore-yard    - 
Tackle,  Pendants      - 
Tackle,  Fore-stay*  - 
Tackle,  Main-yard  - 
Tackle,  Pendants     - 
Tackle,  Main-stay*  - 
Triatic  Stay    -    -    - 
'Quarter  and  Stay     - 

*  Or  Triatic  Stay-tackle. 

Run'g  Rigging  for  all  Classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S.  N,-  Con.  3fi3 


ritrates. 

Sloops. 

Brig. 

Schoon- 

d Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class. 

Brigs* 

autiiies 

ers. 

Steamers* 

i 

S 

r 

i 

I 

i 

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92 

2 

24 

92 

2 

24 

92 

2 

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92 

2 

3 

100 

Oi 

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80 

2  9i 

78 

2 

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0 

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Q  < 

3* 

325 

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200 

4 

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180 

4 

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180    4 

Ol 

170 

3 

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120 

324 

120 

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2 

2 

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2 

2 

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1 

6 

10 

1 

54 

9 

1 

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_ 

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1 

64 

13 

9 

15 

1 

8 

11 

1 
1 

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10 

1 

7 

9  7 

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1100 

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122 

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8 

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4 

4ft 

4 

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4ft 

6 

4ft 

3i     26 

4 

3 

26 

4  3 

24 

4 

3 

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22 

4 

3* 

20 

4 

21 

20 

4 

34     28 

44  100 

2h 

4 

80 

24l4 

80 

24 

4 

60    2 

3^ 

60 

2 

N 

60    2 

3! 

60 

3 

44   100 

64       8 

3 

74 

8 

3   7 

7 

3 

7 

7 

3 

64 

7 

3 

6 

7 

3 

6 

7 

4 

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2 

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3 

2 

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3 

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5 

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2 

44 

2 

2 

6 

4 

- 

- 

6 

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- 

6 

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- 

6 

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2 

- 

2 

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- 

4 

- 

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31 

84 

2 

34 

76 

2 

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72 

2 

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70 

1 

3 

33 

1 

3 

33 

— 

2 

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B4 

64,    74 

2 

6 

6 

2 

5| 

6 

2 

5 

6 

1 

5 

3 

1 

3 

3 

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_ 

2 

74 

3|     54 

1 

34 

50 

1 

34 

48 

1 

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46 

1 

3 

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1 

3 

40 

_ 

1 

3$ 

54 

31 

100 

2 

34!  86 

2 

3* 

84 

2 

34 

84 

1 

3 

10 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

3! 

100 

64 

74 

2 

6       6 

2j  5| 

6 

2 

54 

6 

1 

5 

3 

_  1 

_ 

2 

74 

3i 

54 

1 

34   50 

I1  34 

48 

1 

34 

46 

1 

3 

40 

1 

3 

40' 

_ 

1 

3| 

54 

7 

18 

1 

64'  18 

1 

64 

18 

1 

54 

18 

116 

17 

1 

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15    - 

_ 

1 

7 

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70 

1 

3|   65 

1 

0 

62 

1 

3 

62 

Il3 

60'  1  - 

-      - 

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1 

3? 

70 

364     524.— A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of 


! 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Frig- 

Descrip- 

2 DECKS. 

Razees. 

ates. 

Names  of 

tion,  of    j 

O   DECKS. 

IstClass. 

3d  Class. 

IstClassi 

Blocks. 

1 

i 

1 

| 

1  * 

i 

Block. 

S* 

I 

S" 

13 

• 

=• 

S" 

~j 

o 

o 

fe 

6 

c 

HI 

6 

• 

lljE 

CO 

02 

| 

X 

M 

GO 

X 

00  1    00 

2 

OB 

03 

j 

FLYING  JIB-BOOM. 

Downhaul 
Royal  Bow-lines    - 

S. 

S. 

1 

2 

7 
G 

1.0 

.8 

1 

2 

7 
G 

1.0 

.8 

1 

2 

7 
G 

1.0 

.8 

1 

2 

7 
6 

1.0 

.8 

2 

7 
6 

1.0 

.8 

Halliards  F.  T.  Gal- 
lant-mast-head   - 

s. 

1 

7 

1.3 

1 

7 

1  3 

1 

7 

1.3 

1 

7 

1.3 

1 

7 

1.3 

JIB-BOOM. 

Downhaul 
Brails  on  Stay 

s. 
s. 

1 
2 

8 
6 

1.3 
.1 

1 
c 

8 
6 

1.3 
.9 

1 
2 

8  1.3 
6,    .9 

1 

1 

2 

8 
G 

1.3 

.9 

1 

2 

8  1.3 

6]   .9 

Brails      leading      on 

s.  - 

2 

p 

c 

o 

* 

7 

c 

2 

6 

C 

2 

6 

.9 

Martingale  back-ropes 
Martingale  back-ropes 
Top-gallant  Bow-lines 
Guy  Tackles  - 
Guy-Tackles  - 
Jib-stay  Tackle 
Jib-stay  Tackle 
Sheets  in  Clew  of  Sail 

D. 

S. 

s. 

D. 

S. 
D. 

S. 
S. 

2 
2 
2 
4 
4 
1 
1 

A 

10 
10 

p 

12 

1C 

12 
12 
13 

1.6 
1.6 
.9 
1.2 

O 

»4 

.1 

f 

o 

A* 

2 
2 

4 

/: 
1 
1 
2 

10 
10 
7 
12 
12 
12 
12 
13 

I!G 

c 
l'.5 

.] 

.5 

2 
2 
2 
4 
4 
1 
1 
2 

10 
10 
7 
12 
12 
12 
12 
13 

1.6 
1.6 
c 

L2 

c 

;] 

A 

] 
1 

2 

10 
10 

12 
12 
12 
12 
12 

L6 
1.6 
c 

L2 
1.2 
1.1 
1.1 
1.5 

2 
2 
2 
4 
4 
1 
1 
2 

9 
9 
6 
12 
12 
11 
11 
12 

1.5 
1.5 
.8 
1.2 
1.2 
1.1 
1.1 
1.4 

Hall'rds  in  head  of  Sail 

s. 

1 

12 

X 

1 

12 

/_ 

1 

12 

•4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

11 

1.2 

Halliards  on  top-mast 
Trestle-trees 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

SPRIT-SAIL  YARD. 

Lifts  leading  to  Bow- 
sprit Cap     - 
Brace  on  Yard-arm 

S. 
S. 

2 
2 

12 
11 

1.5 
1.3 

o 

3 

2 

12 
11 

1. 
1. 

2 
2 

12 
11 

1.5 
1.3 

2 
2 

10 
10 

1.3 
1.2 

2 
2 

10 
10 

1.3 
1.2 

Brace  on  Fore-stay 
Brace  on  Trestle-trees 

s. 
s. 

2 

2 

11 
11 

1.3 
1.3 

2 
2 

11 
11 

1. 
1. 

2 
2 

11 
11 

H 

f 

10 
10 

1.2 
1.2 

2 
2 

10 
10 

1.2 
1.2 

BOWSPRIT. 

Fore-top  Bow-lines 
Fore  Bow-lines 

s. 
s. 

2 
2 

12 
12 

1.5 
1.5 

2 

2 

12 
12 

1. 
1. 

2 
2 

12 
12 

1  5 
L5 

2 
2 

12 
12 

1.5 
1.5 

2 

2 

12 

12 

1.5 
1.5 

Fore  Top-mast  Stay- 
sail Downhaul    - 

s. 

1 

8 

1.3 

1 

8 

1. 

1 

8 

1.3 

1 

81.2 

1 

8 

1.2 

Fore  top-mast  Hall'rds 
in  head  of  Sail    - 

s. 

1 

12 

1.6 

1 

12 

1.6 

1 

12 

1.6 

1 

11 

1.4 

1 

11 

1.4 

F.  T.  Mast  Hall'rds  on 

1 

top-mast  trestle  trees 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

1 

12 

1.6 

1 

12 

1.6 

1 

121  1.0 

1 

11 

1.4 

1 

11 

1.4 

F.  T.  Mast   Stay-sail 

sheets  in  clew  of  sail 

S. 

2 

12 

1.5 

2 

12 

1.5 

2 

121  1.5 

2 

12  1.5 

2 

12 

1.5 

F.  Storm  stay-sail  stay 
on  Bowsprit 

S.  Clump. 

1 

14 

2.8 

1 

14 

2.8 

1 

1 
14  2.8 

1 

id  2.4 

1 

12!  2.4 

F.     Storm     Stay-sail 

1 

Downhaul  - 

S. 

1 

8 

1.2 

1 

8 

1.2 

1 

8 

1.2 

1 

8  1.2 

1 

8 

1.2 

F.  storm  stay-sail  hal- 

1 

liards  in  head  of  sail 

S. 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12  1.4 

1 

11 

1.3 

P.S.  stay-sail  halliards 

on  Trestle-trees  - 

S. 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

11 

1.3 

Bumkin  Blocks,  (fore 

tacks)          -        -     (S.Should'r. 

2 

15 

2.3 

c 

15 

2.3 

2 

15 

2.3 

2 

14 

2.2 

2 

14 

2.2 

FOREM'ST&YARD. 

Runner  - 

S. 

1 

17l  3.0 

1 

17 

3.0 

1 

17 

3.0 

1 

!6 

28 

116 

2.8 

the  Different  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S.  tf.      365 


Frig- 
ates. 

Sloops  of  "War. 

Brigs. 

Brigan 

tines. 

School 
ers. 

Steam* 
era. 

W  Class 

1st  Class 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class 

| 

j 

Swallow.  | 

6 

\  z, 

1 

Swallow. 

i 

i, 

•7 

Swallow. 

t 

^ 
i 

j 

I 

i 

j 

•f 

Swnllow. 

1 

•/ 

jswallow. 

I 

•j 

: 
'f 

i 

•if 

1 

7 

1.0 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

I 

.9 

1 

C 

i 

G 

i 

1 

1 

i 

71.0 

2 

G 

.8 

2 

6 

.8 

2 

1 

.8 

2 

5 

( 

2 

i 

/ 

- 

- 

- 

2 

6  .8 

1 

7 

1.3 

1 

-- 

1.3 

1 

( 

1.1 

1 

6 

1.1 

1 

« 

1.1 

1 

i 

1. 

1 

( 

1. 

1 

70 

i 

1 

8 

1.3 

1 

8 

1.3 

1 

•»• 

1.2 

1 

•j 

1.2 

1 

b 

1.0 

1 

i 

1.0 

1 

| 

1. 

j 

81.3 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

0 

.9 

2 

b 

_e 

2 

b 

.9 

2 

b 

.9 

2 

5 

J 

2 

; 

• 

2 

G   .9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

b 

c 

2 

t 

i 

2 

( 

< 

2 

: 

j 

2 

5 

2 

6   .9 

2 

c 

1.5 

2 

8 

1.4  2 

8 

A 

2 

f 

1_< 

2 

1.2 

2 

1 

L2 

•2 

»•»• 

[  . 

2 

91.5 

2 

c 

L5 

2 

8 

1.4   2 

8 

A 

2 

t 

l.< 

2 

- 

1.2 

2 

1.2 

2 

** 

2 

91.5 

2 

b 

.8 

2 

G 

.8  2 

» 

.8 

2 

I 

.8 

2 

i 

• 

2 

5 

.' 

-2 

^ 

2 

6   .8 

4 

10 

1.2 

4 

10 

1.2|  4 

1C 

2 

4 

11 

1.2 

4 

( 

i!i 

4 

j 

1.1 

4 

8 

[m 

4  ] 

01.2 

4 

10 

1.2 

4 

10 

1.2 

4 

10 

_o 

4 

1C 

1.2 

4 

i 

1.1 

4 

( 

1.1 

4 

8 

( 

4  1 

01.3 

1 

10 

1.1 

1 

10 

1.1 

1 

10 

.1 

1 

( 

1.1 

1 

i 

1.0 

1 

( 

l.< 

1 

8 

1  1 

01.1 

1 

1C 

1.1 

1 

10 

1.1 

1 

1C 

.1 

1 

c 

1.1 

1 

r 

1.0 

1 

( 

1.0 

1 

S 

1  1 

01.1 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

q 

.1 

2 

c 

1.1 

2 

i 

1.0 

2 

\ 

l.( 

2 

8 

2  1 

Oil.  3 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

t 

.1 

1 

i 

1.1 

1 

8 

l.C 

1 

8 

l.( 

1 

1  1 

01.2 

i|u 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.0 

1 

10 

1.0 

1 

10 

1.0 

1 

li 

1.0 

1 

10 

.0 

1  1 

214 

o 

1ft 

1.3 

0 

9 

1.2 

2 

() 

1.2 

o 

g 

1.1 

21 

n  t  q 

«*    ±\j 
2    U 

L2 

10 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

b 

l.( 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_ 

_, 

_ 

_ 

i 
2  1 

U  A  O 

012 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

a 

8 

1.0 

2  1 

0  1  2 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

9 

l.l 

2 

(j 

1.1 

2 

s 

1.0 

2  1 

U  1    v 

n  i  o 

2 

11 

1.5 

2 

0 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

q 

1.3 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

( 

2  1 

J  J.    o 

115 

2 

11 

1.5 

2 

0 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.3 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

S 

1.2 

- 

2  1 

115 

1 

8 

1.2 

1 

7 

1.0 

1 

7 

1.0 

1 

/ 

1.0 

1 

G 

.9 

1 

6 

.S 

- 

- 

- 

1 

31  2 

1 

11 

1.4 

1 

0 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

9 

1.1 

1 

8 

1.1 

1 

8 

1.0 

- 

- 

- 

1  1 

ll.i 

1 

11 

1.4 

1 

0 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

9 

1.1 

1 

8 

1.1 

1 

8 

1.0 

- 

- 

- 

1  1 

I    .4 

2 

11 

1.4 

2 

0 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

- 

- 

- 

2  1 

11.4 

1 

12 

2.4 

1 

0 

2.0 

1 

10 

2.0 

1 

9 

1.8 

1 

8 

1.6 

1 

8 

1.6 

_ 

_ 

m 

1  15 

J|2.4 

1 

i 

I 

8 

1.2 

1 

7 

1.0 

1 

7 

1.0 

1 

G 

.9 

1 

G 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

_    _' 

- 

1    i 

*1.2 

1    11 

1.3 

1 

0 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

9 

1.1 

1 

8 

1.0 

1 

8 

1.0 

- 

- 

- 

1  1] 

ljl.3 

1 

11 

1.3 

1 

0 

1.2 

1 

0 

1.2 

1 

9 

1.1 

1 

8 

1.0 

1 

s\  i.o' 

- 

- 

- 

1  1] 

1.3 

2 

11 

2.2 

2 

2 

2.0 

2 

2 

2.0 

2 

11 

1.8 

2 

9| 

1.6 

2 

9  1.6 

_ 

_ 

- 

2  U 

12.2 

•    *      i 

: 

1 

'5 

2.6 

i 

i  i  " 

JQ  R 

360      A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  IMF* 


Ships  of  the  Line. 

Frig- 

Descrip- 

2 DECKS. 

itazeea. 

ates. 

Names  of 

tion  of 

O    DECKS. 

IstClass. 

2d  Class. 

IstClas* 

Blocks. 

Block. 

.2 
3 

J2 
a 

.    «' 

J2 

"3 

.  = 

1 

tZ 

i 

1 

1 

CC 

9 
fc 

.2 

72 

QQ 

£ 

i 

1 

1 

1   1 

FOREM'ST&YARD. 

T 

Continued. 

1 

Tackle  for  Runner 
Tackle  for  Runner 
Pendant  Tackles    - 
Pendant  Tackles    - 
Truss  Tackles  -    - 

D. 

S. 
D. 
D. 
D 

i 
i 

2 
2 
2 

17 
17 
17 
17 
10 

1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.3 

1 
1 

2 
2 
2 

17 
17 
17 
17 
10 

1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.3 

1 

1 

2 
2 
2 

17 
17 
17 
17 
10 

1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.3 

2 

2 
o 

17 
17 
17 
17 
10 

1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.3 

1 
1 

2 
c. 
g 

17 

17 
16 
16 
10 

1.G 
1.6 
1.5 
1.5 

1.3 

Truss  Tackles  -    - 

S. 
T. 

2 
2 

10 
22 

1.3 
2.4 

2 

2 

10 
22 

1.3 
2.4 

2 
2 

10 
22 

1.3 
2.4 

g 

10 
22 

1.3 
2.4 

2 

10 

20 

1.3 
2.1 

D. 

2 

22 

2.4 

2 

22 

2.4 

2 

22 

2.4 

2 

22 

2.4 

f 

20 

2.1 

Jeer  Leaders      -    - 

S. 

X 

20 

2.2 

2 

20 

2.2 

2 

20 

2.2 

9 

4 

20 

2.1 

c 

20 

2.1 

duarter  Blocks  -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

16 

2.3 

2 

16 

2.3 

2 

16 

2.3 

C\ 

& 

16 

2.3 

2 

14 

2.1 

Clew  Garnet       -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

14 

1.7 

2 

14 

1.7 

2 

14 

1.7 

$ 

14 

1.7 

(T 

13 

1.6 

Clews  of  Sail     -    - 

S. 

2 

12 

1.7 

2 

12 

1.7 

2 

1.7 

2 

12 

1.7 

g 

11 

1.6 

Bunt-lines  under  Fore 

T1 

D. 

2 

9 

1.3 

2 

9 

1.3 

2 

9  1.3 

2 

9 

1.3 

g 

9 

1.3 

B  ant-lines  under  Fore 

Shoe. 

2 

18 

1  3 

2 

id  1.3 

2 

18!  1  3 

2 

18!  1-3 

2 

1G 

1.2 

Leech-lines  on  Yard 

S. 

4 

8 

1.2 

4 

b 

1.2 

4 

8  1.2 

4 

8 

1.2 

4 

8 

1.2 

Leech-lines  under  Top 
Leech-lines  After    - 

D. 
D. 

2 
2 

8 
8 

1.4 

1.3 

2 
2 

8 

S 

1.4 
1.3 

2 

2 

8J1.4 
8  1.3 

2 
2 

8 
8 

1.2 
1.2 

2 
2 

8 
8 

1.2 
]  2 

Leech-lines  After    - 

S. 

4 

8 

1.3 

4 

8 

1.3 

4 

8  1.3 

4 

8 

1.2 

4 

8 

l* 

Braces  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

2 

15 

1.6 

2 

15 

1.6 

2 

15i  1.6 

2 

15 

1.6 

2 

15 

1.6 

Braces  leading  under 

Main  Trestle-trees 
Lifts  on  Cap  -    -    - 

8. 
D. 

2 
2 

15 
16 

1.6 
2.2 

2 

2 

15 
16 

1.6 
2.2 

2 

2 

15 
16 

1.6 
2.2 

'2 
2 

15 
16 

1.6 
2.2 

2 
2 

15 
16 

1.6 
2.2 

Lifts  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

2 

16 

2.2 

2 

16 

2.2 

2 

16 

2.2 

2 

16 

2.2 

2 

16 

2.2 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

D. 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 
Boom  Jiggers     -    - 

S. 
S. 

2 
4 

10 
9 

1.1 
1.1 

2 
4 

10 
9 

1.1 
1.1 

2 
4 

10 
9 

.1 
.1 

2 
4 

10 
9 

1.1 
1.1 

2 
4 

10 

8 

1.1 
1.0 

Boom  Jiggers  (in  and 

S. 

6 

0 

1.1 

6 

9 

l.l 

6 

9 

l 

6 

9 

1.1 

6 

8 

1.0 

Clew  Jiggers     -    - 

S.' 

4 

17 

8 

l.l 

4 

8 

I.I 

4 

8 

.1 

4 

8 

4 

8 

1.1 

Bunt  Jiggers      -    - 

S. 

3 

8 

1.1 

3 

8 

1.1 

3 

8 

.1 

3 

8 

1.1 

3 

8 

1.1 

Reef  Tackles  on  Yard 

S.d'blesc'e 

2 

12 

1.8 

2 

12 

1.8  2 

12 

1.8 

2 

12 

1.8, 

2 

12 

1.8 

Fore  Tacks  in  Clews 

of  Sail  ---    - 

S. 

2 

15 

2.3 

0 

15 

2.3J  2 

15 

2.3 

2 

14 

2.2 

2 

14 

2.2 

Sheets    in    Clews    of 

S. 

2 

15 

2.3 

2 

15 

2.3  2 

15 

2.3 

2 

14 

2.2 

2 

14 

2.2 

Swinging-boom  Top- 

ping-lifts, -    -    - 

S.  clamp. 

2 

11 

1.5 

2 

11 

1.5 

2 

11 

1.5 

2 

11 

1.5 

2 

11 

1.5 

Swinging-boom  Top- 
ping-whips,    -    - 

D. 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.0 

Swinging-bocm  Top- 
ping-whips,    -    - 

S. 

sin 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.0 

Pendants    for    o  Her 

Halliards,-    -    - 

S. 

2 

16 

1.8 

2 

16 

1.8 

2 

16 

1.8 

2 

15 

1.7 

2 

14 

1.6 

Outer    Studding-sail 

Halliards  on  Boom 

S. 

2 

12 

1.8 

2 

12 

1.8 

2 

12 

1.8 

2 

12 

1.8 

2 

11 

1.7 

Inner     Studding-sail 

Halliards  on  Yard 

S. 

2 

9 

1.3 

2 

9 

1.3 

2 

9 

1.3 

2 

9 

1.3 

2 

9 

1.3 

Inner    Studding-sail  ' 

| 

i 

Halliards  on  duarter  1        S. 
Trinping-line     -    -     H         S. 

2 
2 

9 
9 

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2  9!  1.3 
21  9  1.1. 

21  91  1.3 
2  9,  U 

ferent  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  U.  §•  Nt — Ubn'A  36? 


Frig- 
ate a  . 

Sloops  of  War. 

Brigs. 

Brigan- 

Sclioon-    Steam* 

1 

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1st  Class. 

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era. 

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368      A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  Dif- 


II 

jr 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Frig. 

Descrip- 

3    DECKS 

2  DECKS. 

Razees. 

ates. 

Raines  of 

tion  of 

IstClass. 

2d  Class. 

IstClass; 

Blocks. 

^ 

£ 

^ 

•£ 

± 

Block. 

-2 

_e 

.  j 

a 

,0 

X 

1 

* 

d 

.§ 

£ 

o 

£ 

S 

• 

6 

si 

1 

£ 

(^ 

CO 

<^ 

'7. 

OQ 

^ 

03      03 

^ 

00 

00 

^ 

00 

02 

FOREM'ST&YARD. 

1 

Continued. 

Lower    Studding-sail 

Downhaul       -    - 

S. 

c 

7 

1.0 

"t 

1.0 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

^ 

1.0 

2 

7 

1.0 

After  Guys    -    -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

X 

11 

1.5 

11 

1.5 

2 

11 

1.5 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

Forward  Guys  (Cheek 
on  Bowsprit)  -    - 

S. 

9 

11 

1.5 

2 

11 

1.5 

w 

11 

1.5 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

Tacks  on  Boom-end 

S. 

5 

A 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

c 

11 

1.6 

<r 

10 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

Tricing-lines  for  Stud- 

ding-sail Gear     - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

c 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

l.l 

i 

FORE    TOP    MAST 

AND  YARD. 

: 

Top  Blocks   -    -    - 

S.  Iron  W. 

2 

22 

3.6 

2 

22 

3.6 

2 

22 

3.6 

2 

20 

3.0 

2 

20 

3.0 

Top  Tackles      -    - 

D. 

4 

20 

2.0 

4 

20 

2.0 

4 

20 

2.0 

4 

20 

2.0 

4|l9 

1.9 

Top  Leaders      -    - 

S. 

2 

20 

2.0 

2 

20 

2.0 

c 

20 

2.0 

cT 

20 

2.0 

2 

19 

1.9 

TOD  Burtons      -    - 

Fiddle. 

2 

20 

1.4 

2 

20 

1.4 

f 

20 

1.4 

9 

3 

18 

1.4 

2 

18 

1.4 

Top  Burtons      -    - 

S. 

2 

12 

1.4 

2 

12 

1.4 

c 

,*£ 

12 

1.4 

2 

11 

1.4 

2 

11 

1.4 

Top  Runners      -    - 

S. 

2 

12 

1.7 

2 

12 

1.7 

2 

12i  1.7 

2 

11 

1.5 

2 

11 

1.5 

Breast  Backstays    - 

D. 

4 

15 

1.4 

4 

15 

1.4 

4 

15  1.4 

4 

14 

1.4 

4 

14 

1.4 

Breast  Backstays    - 

T.  Iron  b'd. 

4 

15 

1.4 

4 

15 

1.4 

4 

15  1.4 

4 

14 

1.4 

4 

14 

1.4 

Gin  Blocks  (To  be  fit- 

1 

ted  with  band  over 

Trestle  Trees     - 

S. 

2 

18 

2.7 

2 

18 

2.7 

9 

4 

18 

2.7 

2 

18 

2.7 

2 

17 

2.7 

Tye  Blocks  -    -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

19 

2.5 

2 

19 

2.5 

2 

19 

2.5 

2 

18 

2.5 

2 

17 

2.4 

Flv  Blocks    -    -    - 

D. 

2 

22 

1.6 

2 

22 

1.6 

(T 

22 

1.6 

2 

20 

1.6 

2 

20 

1.6 

Fly  Blocks    -    -    - 

S. 

2 

22 

1.6 

2 

22 

1.6 

2 

22 

1.6 

2 

20 

1.6 

2 

20 

1.6 

Leaders  for  Fly  Blocks 

S. 

2 

22 

1.6 

2 

22 

1.6 

2 

22 

1.6 

2 

20 

1.6 

2 

20 

1.6 

Braces  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

2 

17 

1.7,  2 

17 

1.7 

r 

17 

1.7 

2 

16 

1.7 

2 

16 

1.6 

Braces   on  Collar  of 

j 

Main  Stay      -    - 
Braces    under    Main 
Trestle  Trees 

s. 

s. 

2 
2 

14 
15 

1.7  2 

1.71  2 

14 
15 

T 

1.7!  2 

14 

15 

1.7 

1.7 

2 
2 

12 
15 

1.7 
1.7 

2 

2 

11 
14 

1.6 

1.6 

J) 

o  Oi  9 

~)A 

999 

->n 

9  9 

2 

?0<  "  "• 

o 

1  1\ 

9  A 

Leaders  for  Lifts    - 

S.  Clump. 

212 

2^2  2 

<wU 

12 

&.&    £ 

2.2i  2 

•OU 

12 

2.2 

2 

x^U 

10 

2.1 

^ 
2 

ibf 
10 

A.\) 

2.0 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

D. 

2!10 

1.0 

2 

10 

1.0  2 

10 

1.0 

2 

10 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

S. 

210 

1.0 

2 

10 

1.0  2 

10 

1.0 

2 

10 

1.0 

2'  *•) 

1.0 

Quarter  Blocks  -    - 

D.  Iron  b'd. 

2|13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7  2 

13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

2ll3  1.6 

Clew-lines    in   Clews 

of  Top-sail     -    -    | 

S. 

212 

1.7 

2 

12 

1.7,2 

12 

1.7 

2 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

Rolling  Tackle  -    - 

D. 

211 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6  2 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

Rolling  Tackle  -    - 
Bunt-lines    at    Mast- 

S. 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

,.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

head  -    -    -    . 

Q         T                           i      J    i 

9 

1    £1 

9 

1  9 

1    /• 

1  9 

I** 

1  9 

i  £ 

9 

1  O 

1  K. 

Reef  Tackle  Whips 

o»  iron  D  d. 

s. 

M 

4 

12 

L6 

A 
4 

\.& 

12 

i.O 

1.6 

4 

[4 

12 

.0 

1.6 

4 

v£ 

12 

I.O, 

1.6. 

Z 

4 

L<Z 
12 

1.0 

1.6 

Sheets    in   Clews    of 

Top-sail     -    -    - 
Bunt-runner  -    -    - 

s. 
s. 

2 
1 

13 

10 

2.3 
1.4 

2 
1 

13 

10 

2.3 
14 

2 
1 

13 
10 

2.3 
1.4 

2 

12 
10 

2.2 

2 
1 

12 
9 

2.2 
1  2 

Jigger  for  Bunt-runner 
Jigger  for  Bunt-runner 

D. 

S. 

1 
1 

8 
8 

1.2 
1.2 

1 

1 

8 
8 

1.2 
1.2 

1 
1 

8 
8 

1.2 
1.2 

1 
1 

8 
8 

L2 
1.2 

1 
1 

8 

8 

1.2 
1.2 

Clew  Jiggers      -    -     ' 
Boom  Tricing-lir.es 
Span  for  Studding-sail 

s. 
s. 

4 
2 

9 

8 

1.2 
1.0 

4 
2 

9 

8 

1.2 
1.0 

4 
2 

9 

8 

1.2 
1.0 

4 
2 

9 

8 

1.2 
1.0 

4 

2 

9 

81 

1.2 
1.0 

Halliards  -    -    - 

s. 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

3 

1.7 

2 

121  1.6 

Jewel  Blocks     -    - 

s. 

2|13 

1.7 

2|13 

1.7 

2 

13J  1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

2l2ll.e 

fereiit  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  ti.  S,  N,— Con£d.  369 


Frig- 
ates. 

Sloops  of  War. 

Brigs. 

Brigan- 
tines. 

Schoon- 
ers. 

Steam- 
ers. 

1st  Class 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class. 

* 

i 

g 

Size_.  j 
Swallow.' 

1 

i 

| 

en 

1 

S 
S 

Swallow. 

i 

| 

Swallow. 

1 

a 

<E 

OQ 

~ 

X 

Swallow. 

t 

i 

•a 
in 

i 

2 

6  1.0 

2 

6    .9 

2 

6 

g 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

6 

g 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

61.0 

2 

9,1.0 

2 

9(  I.'O 

2 

9 

LO 

2     8 

1.0 

2 

8 

LO 

2 

8 

LO 

•2 

5 

1.0 

2  .10  1.2 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

sJi.o 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

101.2 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

9 

LO 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

8 

.9 

0 

8 

.9 

2 

101.2 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

7 

LO 

2 

- 

LO 

2 

6 

1.0 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

- 

- 

- 

2  '  7 

10 

i 

2 

20 

3.0 

2 

IS 

2.5 

2 

18 

2.5 

1 

16 

2.2 

1 

14 

2.0 

1 

14 

2.0 

1 

10 

1.5 

2 

20.3.0 

1  0 

1f\ 

1  H 

i  ^ 

A 

1C) 

10 

14- 

11    fi 

4 

i  oii  n 

10 

21  O 

.y 

In 

10 

6~ 

I.o 
1  c 

'i 

1U 
1  ti 

.0 

I    Q 

i 

l~r 
11 

I.O 
1    ^ 

^t 

2 

Io  l.sf 

10 

16 

.y 
1.4 

2 

15 

I.O 

1.4 

2 

1  U 

14 

i.o 

1.0 

i 

2 

l~x 

14 

I.O 

1.0 

2 

13 

.9 

2 

13 

g 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

16JL4 

•2 

10 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

9 

LO 

2 

9 

LO 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

8 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

lOjl  4 

o 

10 

1.5 

2 

10 

1.5 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

L2 

2 

8 

1.-2 

2 

10L5 

4 

14 

1.4 

2 

12 

1.3 

2 

12 

1.2 

2 

12 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

li) 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

4 

14J1.4 

4 

14 

1.4 

2 

12 

1.3 

2 

12 

1.2 

2 

12 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2- 

4 

14J1.4 

1  1; 

i 

24 

2 

14 

04 

12 

i  fi 

2 

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i 

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4 

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12 

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1    Q 

12 

l.C 

i  ^ 

0 

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it) 

is 

L5    2 

.-r 

16 

1.4 

2 

14 

I.O 

1.4 

12 

I.O 

1.4 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2    2 

1  U  ^,  h* 

181  Ji 

2 

18 

1.5 

2 

16 

1.4 

2 

14 

1.4 

12 

1.4 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2    2 

18 

15 

2 

18 

1.5 

2 

16 

1.4 

2 

14 

1.4 

12 

1.4 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.2    2 

18 

1  5 

2 

15 

1.6 

2 

14 

1.5 

2 

13 

1.4 

2 

12 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

8 

l.C    2 

15 

Iti 

2 

10 

1.6 

2 

9 

1.5 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

8 

1.4 

2 

7 

1.2 

2 

7 

1.2 

- 

- 

- 

2 

10 

1.6 

I 

2 

14 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.5 

2 

12 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

ID 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

14  1G 

2 

18 

2.0 

2 

16 

1.9 

2 

15 

1.8 

2 

14 

1.8 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

12 

1    * 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

182.0 

2 

10 

2.0 

2 

10 

1.9 

2 

9 

1.8 

2 

8 

1.8 

2 

8 

1.7 

2 

7 

1/7 

2 

7 

1.4 

2 

1012.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

S 

.9 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

7 

.8 

2 

7 

.8 

2 

7 

- 

2 

91.0 

2 

9 

LO 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

7 

.8 

2 

7 

.8 

2 

7 

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2 

9 

1.0 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

2   10 

1.5 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.3 

2 

.9 

1.3 

2 

S 

1.2- 

2 

12 

1.6 

S    10 

1.5 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.5 

S  .10 

1.5 

2 

9|L4 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.5 

2  llO 

1.5 

2 

9  1.4 

2 

9 

1.4 

2     9 

1.4 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.5 

•2 

11 

1.6 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

9  1.4 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

11 

1.6 

i 

11 

1.6 

4 

9 

1.4 

4 

9 

1.4 

4 

9 

1.4 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

4 

11 

1.6 

0 

n 

2.0 

2 

Q 

1  9 

o 

10 

1.9 

2 

10 

1  Q 

2 

2 

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on 

1 

9 

L2 

1 

8 

LO 

1 

8 

1.0 

1 

6 

1  .t7 

LO 

1 

8 

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1 

8 

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1 

6 

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1 

9L2 

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7 

1.1 

1 

7 

LO 

1 

7 

LO    1 

7 

LO 

1 

6 

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1 

6 

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1    6 

.9 

1 

71.1 

I 

7 

1.1 

1 

7 

LO 

1 

7 

LO 

1 

7 

1.0 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

7 

1.1 

4 

8 

1.1 

4 

8 

1.1 

4 

8 

1.1 

4 

7 

LO 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

7 

LO 

2 

6 

.9 

4 

8 

1.1 

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7 

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2 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

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2 

7 

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2 

6 

.8 

2 

6 

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- 

- 

- 

2 

7 

3 

i 

2     2  1.6; 

2 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6   2 

10 

1.5 

2    10 

1.5 

2 

10 

1.5 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

12 

1.6 

i     -2  1.6 

2 

11 

1.6 

2 

11 

1.6   2 

10 

1.5 

2  110 

1.5 

2 

10  1.5l|  2 

9 

1.4 

2 

12  l.C 

370 


A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  Dif- 


Ships  of  the  Line. 

Frig. 

Descrip- 

2 DECKS. 
j    DECKS 

Razees. 

ates. 

Names  of 

tion  of 

IstClass. 

2d  Class. 

IstClass. 

Blocks. 

I  i 

1 

1 

=: 

h 

Block. 

a 

.3 

,2 

.3 

;2 

I 

G 
| 

• 

03 

i 

1 

03 

0 

| 

I 

i 

a 

00 

CO 

o 

a 

73 

00 

FORE    TOP-MAST 

AND  YARD.Contin. 

Studding-sail    Tacks 
on  Boom  ends     - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

Studding-sail   Down- 
haul  in  sails   -    - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

Leaders    for     Boom- 

1 

braces  in  Main  Rig- 

S. 

o 

if 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

ging  -    -    -    -    - 

F'RE    TOP-GAL'NT 

MAST  AND  YARD. 

Top  Block     -    -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

i 

14 

2.2 

1 

14 

2.2 

1 

14 

2.2 

1 

14 

2.0 

1 

13 

2.0 

Breast  Backstays    - 

S. 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

Breast    Backstays  in 

Channels   -    -    - 

D.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

o 

11 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

Halliards  -    -    -    - 

D. 

2 

12 

1.3 

2 

12 

1.3 

X 

12 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

210 

1.3 

Braces  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

i 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

Braces  on  Collar  of 

Main  Top-m'st  Stay 

S. 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

1.1 

X 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

Braces  on  Main  Top- 

mast-head -    -    - 

S. 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

S. 

2 

10  i.fi 

2 

10 

1.6 

10 

1.6 

2 

9 

1.5 

2 

9 

1.5 

Lifts  in  Top  -    -    - 

S.  Clamp. 

2 

6 

1.6 

2 

6 

1.6 

6 

1.6 

2 

6 

1.5 

2 

6 

1.5 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

D. 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

Gluarter  Blocks  -    - 

D. 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

10 

1.4 

•2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

Bunt-lines      -    -    - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

i 

8 

1.0 

g 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

Span  Blocks,  Top-gal- 

lant    Studding-sail 

Halliards  -    -    - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

Jewel  Blocks     -    - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

Studding-sail    Tacks 

on  Boom  Ends    - 

S. 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

F'RE  ROYAL  MAST 

AND  YARD. 

Breast  Backstays    - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

7 

1.0 

Breast    Backstays   in 

Ton 

•N     r              1_?  J 

2 

8 

1.1 

O 

8 

i  i 

0 

10 

1         -I 

o 

7 

In 

2 

7 

1  ft 

Royal  Braces  M'nT'p- 
gallant  Mast-heaa 

J  •  .Li  UI1    U  11. 

S. 

2 

6 

.9 

m 

2 

6 

1.1 
.9 

!c 

2 

o 
6 

.9 

IB 

2 

i 
6 

.U 

.9 

2 

I 

G 

l.VJ 

.9 

Gluarter  Blocks 

S. 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

Bunt-line  Blocks    - 

S. 

1  6 

.9 

1 

G 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

FORE    TRY-SAIL 

MAST  &  GAFF. 

• 

Peak  Halliards  -    - 

D.  Iron  b'd. 

1 

U 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

Peak  Halliards  -    - 

S. 

212 

1.5 

2 

12 

1.5 

2 

12 

1.5 

2 

12 

1.5 

2 

12 

1.5 

Throat  Halliards    - 

D. 

1 

12 

1.5    1 

12 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

Throat  Halliards   - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

1 

12 

1.5;  1 

12  1.5   1 

12 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

1 

12 

1.5 

Peak  Brails  -    -    - 

Cheek. 

i 

Throat  Brails    -    - 

S. 

2 

9 

1.2  2 

9 

1.2  2 

9  1.2 

2|  9  1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

Middle  Brails    -    - 

S. 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.11  2 

10  1.1 

21  9;  1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

Foot  Brails    -    -    - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

l.l1  2 

8  1.1 

2'  8,  l.li 

2 

8 

i.: 

Sheets  - 

Q 

4 

\'\ 

17/1 

1Q 

1  1\  ± 

iq   -I  7 

4\ii)\  i  <v  4 

1  0 

i  K 

Vanffs  -                         .;         S. 

^ 

2 

id 

8 

i.  / 
1.2 

** 

2 

1O 

8 

1.  /    1 

12    2 

lo  1.7 

R  i  a 

Ixi    l.O  •    ^ 

2    R  1  9  1  21 

ft  t!a 

fereat  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S,  N,— ConCd.  371 


Frig- 
ates. 

in  Class. 

Sloops  of  War. 

Brigs. 

Brigan- 
tines. 

Schoon- 
ers. 

Steam- 
ers. 

1st  Class. 

3d  Class. 

3d  Class. 

i 

| 

| 

j 

| 

it 

1: 

| 

i 

| 

o 

J 

JL 

| 

.i 

X 

13 

CO 

A. 

j 

00 

! 

JK|  oo 

JL 

| 

00 

jf_ 



1 

X 

1 

1 

Jj 

—  — 

' 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

G 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

5 

.8 

2 

5 

.8 

2 

5 

.3 

2 

71.1 

8 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

G 

.8 

2 

G 

.8 

2 

6 

.6 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

6 

1.0 

2 

7 

1.1 

1 

12 

2.0 

1 

11 

1.8 

1 

11 

1.8 

1 

10 

1.6 

1 

9 

1.4 

1 

9 

i.4 

1 

12 

2.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

2 

9 
10 

1.0 
1.2 

1    A 

2 
2 

8 

8 

1.0 
i  n 

2 
2 
n 

8 
6 

1.0 
1.2 
1  0 

2 
2 

8 

8 
7 

1.0 
1.2 

i  fi 

2 
2 

7 
7 

.9 
1.0 

2 
2 

7 
7 

.9 
1.0 

2 

2 

7 

7 

.9 
1.0 

2 
2 
2 

L? 

g 

1.0 
1.2 
1  0 

2 

l.U 

7 

l.U    & 

1 

l.U 

j 

l.U 

L  .\J 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

6 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

6 

1.0 

2 

5 

.9 

2 

5 

.9 

- 

- 

- 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

5 

.9 

2 

5 

.9 

2 

0 

.9 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.4 

2 

7 

1.4 

2 

7 

1.4 

2 

7 

1.4 

2 

6 

1.3 

2 

G 

1.3 

8 

5 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.4 

2 

6 

1.4 

2 

6 

.4 

2 

G 

1.4 

2 

6 

1.4 

2 

G 

1.4 

2 

G 

1.4 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

G 

1.4 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

7 

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2 

G 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

5 

.8 

2 

5 

.8 

_ 

_ 

_ 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

7 

.0 

2 

G 

.9 

2 

G 

.9 

2 

5 

.8 

2 

5 

.8 

_ 

_ 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

8 

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2 

7 

1.2 

2 

7 

1.2 

2 

6 

1.1 

2 

G 

1.1 

_ 

_ 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

G 

.0 

1 

G 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

G 

.9 

- 

- 

- 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

G 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

G 

.9 

2 

G 

.9 

2 

6 

.9 

2 

7 

1.0 

2 

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1.0 

2 

G 

1.0 

2 

G 

.9 

2 

G 

.S 

2 

G 

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2 

G 

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G 

.9 

2 

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1.0 

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1.0 

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1.0 

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6 

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2 

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c 

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372      A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  Dif- 


Names  of 

Descrip- 
tion of 

Skaps  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frig- 
ates* 

IstClass; 

3   DECKS. 

2  DECKS. 

IstClass. 

2d  Class 

Blocks 

1    -f 

* 

% 

^ 

J1 

Block. 

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02 

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00 

MAIN  MAST  AND 

YARD. 

i 

Runner     .... 

S. 

117 

3.0 

1 

17 

3.0 

1 

17 

3.0 

1 

16 

2.8 

1 

16 

2.H 

Tackle  for  Runner 

D. 

l'17 

1.6 

1 

17JJ.6 

1 

17 

1.6 

1 

16 

1.6 

1 

16 

1.6 

Tackle  for  Runner 

S. 

1,17 

1.6 

] 

17 

1.6 

1 

17 

1.6 

1 

17 

1.6 

1 

16 

1.6 

Pendant  Tackles    - 

D. 

2!17 

1.6 

c 

17 

1.6 

2 

17 

1.6 

X 

17 

1.6 

2 

16 

1.6 

Pendant  Tackles    - 

S. 

2 

17 

1.6 

2 

17 

1.6 

2 

17 

1.6 

X 

16 

1.6 

a 

16 

1.6 

Truss  Tackles  -    - 

D. 

2 

10 

1.3 

; 

A 

10 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

10 

1.3 

a 

10 

1.3 

Truss  Tackles  -    - 

.  s. 

2 

10 

1  S 

2 

10 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

10 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

T. 

2 

22 

2^ 

2 

22 

2.4 

2 

22 

2.4 

22 

2.4 

2 

20 

2.4 

T 

D. 

2 

22 

24 

22 

24 

2 

22 

2.4 

22 

2.4 

2 

20 

9  4 

Jeer  Leaders      -    - 

S.' 

2 

22 

2.4 

2 

22 

2A 

2 

22 

2.4: 

A 

22 

2^4 

2 

20 

«.** 

2.4 

Gluarter  Blocks  -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

17 

2.3 

2 

17 

2.3 

2 

17 

2.3 

X 

16 

2.2 

2 

16 

2.2 

Clew  Garnet       -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

15 

1.7 

2 

15 

1.7 

2 

15 

1.7 

14 

1.6 

2 

14 

1.6 

Clews  of  Sail     -    - 

S. 

2 

13 

1.7 

a 

13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

A 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

Bunt-lines  under  M'n 

Ton 

D. 

2 

10 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

rj 

10 

l.'l 

Bunt-lines  under  M'n 

Ton 

Shoe. 

2 

18 

1.3 

2 

18 

1.3 

2 

1ft 

1.3 

2 

18 

1  T 

2 

18 

1  'I 

Leech-lines  on  Yard 

S.  * 

4 

8 

1.3 

4 

8 

L3 

4 

JLO 

8 

13 

4 

8 

A  .O 

1.3 

4 

8 

l.'l 

Leech-lines  under  Top 
Leech-lines  After   - 

D. 
D. 

2 
2 

8 
8 

1.3 
1.3 

2 
2 

8 

8 

1.3 
t.3 

2 

2 

8 
8 

1.3 
1.3 

2 
2 

8 
8 

1.3 

1.3 

2 
2 

8 
8 

l.i 
l.i 

Leech-lines  After   - 

S. 

4 

8 

1.3 

4 

8 

1.3 

4 

8 

1.3 

4 

8 

1.3 

4 

8 

1.! 

Braces  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

2 

20 

2.0 

2 

20 

2.0 

2 

20 

2.0 

a 

19 

2.0 

2 

19 

2(, 

Braces  on  Bumkins 

S. 

2 

20 

2.0 

2 

20 

2.0 

2 

20 

2.0 

2 

19  2.0 

2 

19 

3.U 

Lifts  on  Cap  -    -    - 

D. 

2 

17 

2.3 

2 

17 

2.3 

2 

17 

2.3 

2 

16 

2.3 

2 

16 

2  il 

Lifts  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

2 

16 

2.3 

2 

16 

2.3 

2 

16 

2.3 

2 

15 

2.3 

2 

14 

ai 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

D. 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

Lift  Jiggers  ... 

S. 

2 

10 

1  1 

2 

10 

.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

Boom  Jiggers     -    - 

S. 

4 

9 

1.1 

4 

9 

.1 

4 

9 

1.1 

4 

9 

1.1 

4 

8 

1.0 

Boom  Jiggers  (in  and 

out)  ..... 

S. 

6 

9 

1.1 

6 

9 

.1 

6 

9 

1.1 

6 

9 

1.1 

6 

8  1.0 

Clew  Jiggers      -    - 

S. 

4 

9 

1.1 

4 

9 

.11  4 

9 

1.1 

4 

9 

1.1 

4 

9 

1.1 

Bunt  Jiggers      -    - 

S. 

3 

8 

1.1 

3 

8 

1.1 

3 

811.1 

3 

8 

1.1 

3 

8 

Reef  Tackles  on  Yard 

S.  d'ble  sc'e 

2 

12 

1.8 

2 

12 

1.8 

2 

12 

1.8 

2 

11 

1.8 

2 

11 

L8 

Tack  Blocks-    -    - 

S. 

2 

16 

2.3 

2 

16 

2.31  2 

16 

2.3 

2 

15 

2.3 

2(15 

2.3 

Tacks  in    Clews    of 

Sail 

S. 

2 

16 

2.3 

2 

16 

2.31  2 

16 

2.3 

2 

15 

2.3 

2 

15 

2.3 

Sheets    in    Clews  of1 

Sail  -    -    -    -    - 

S. 

2 

16 

f)  O 

2 

16 

9^9 

i  /• 

O  ^ 

9 

i  rt 

O  o 

o 

1  ^ 

O  *•$ 

Runner  for  Bow-line 

S. 

2 

LO 

11 

L3 

2 

LO 

11 

/w.O     & 

1.3  2 

1U 

11 

L3 

So 

2 

LO 

10 

L3 

«0 

2 

It} 

10 

1.3 

Jigger  for  Bow-line 

S. 

2 

11 

1.3 

2 

11 

1.3 

2 

11 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

2 

10 

1.3 

Tricing-lines  for  Stud- 

ding-sail Gear    - 

S. 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

8 

i.i 

2 

8 

J.I 

MAIN  TOP-MAST  & 

YARD. 

i 

Top  Blocks  -    -    - 

S  Iron  b'd. 

2 

22 

3.6 

2 

22 

3.6 

2 

22 

3.6 

2 

20 

3.0 

2 

20 

3.0 

Top  Tackles      -    - 

D. 

4 

22 

2.6 

4 

22 

2.6 

422 

2.6 

4 

20 

2.6 

420 

2.t' 

Top  Leaders      -    . 

S. 

2 

20 

2.6 

2 

20 

2.6 

2J20 

2.6 

a 

20 

2.6 

2 

20 

2.b 

Top  Burtons      -    - 

Fiddle. 

220 

1.4 

2 

20 

1.4 

1.4 

2 

18 

1.4 

218 

1.4 

Top  Burtons      -    - 

S. 

212 

1.4 

2,12 

1.4 

3|18 

1.4 

2 

1M.4 

a 

11 

1.4 

Fop  Runners     -    -    i 

S. 

2^12 

2.8 

2112 

2.8 

21  12 

2.8 

2 

11  '2.8 

2 

11 

2.8 

ferent  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S»  N. — Cont>d.  373 


* 

• 

2d~ 

i 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 

2 
2 
2 

2 

2 

4 
2 

a 

4 

EH. 
13 
3 

4 

6 
4 
3 
2 
2 

2 

2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
4 

2 
2 
2 

'ri 
Lte 

"ci 

j 

15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
p't 

19 
19 
19 
15 
13 
11 

9 

16 

8 
8 
8 
8 

18 
18 
15 
13 
9 
9 
8 

8 
8 
7 
10 
14 

14 

14 
9 
9 

8 

•20 
18 
18 
17 
10 
10 

g- 

s. 

ass. 

CO 

2.6 
1.6 
1.6 

1.6 
1.6 

2.3 
2.3 
2.3 
2.1 
1.5 
1.5 

1.2 

1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 

1.9 
1.9 
2.2 
2.1 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 

1.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.7 

2.2 

2.2 

2.2 
1.2 
1.2 

1.1 

3.0 
2.4 
2.4 
1.4 
1.4 
26 

Sloops  of  War. 

Brigs. 

Brigan- 
tines. 

Sohoon- 
ers. 

Steam- 
ers. 

1st  Class. 

2d 
1 

Class. 

3d  Class. 

1 

1 

JE 

1 

J 

73 

0 

8 

X 

i 

CO 

d 

7. 

1 
1 
ffl 

0 

g 

% 

00 

d 

| 

1 

02 

d 

15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
p't 

19 
19 

}3 

9 

16 
6 
8 
8 
8 

IS 
18 
15 
13 
9 
9 
8 

8 
8 
7 
10 
14 

14 

14 
9 
9 

8 

•20 
18 
IS 
17 
10 
10 

* 

T. 

2.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.6 
1.6 

2.3 
2.3 

L5 
1.5 

1/2 

1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 

1.9 
1.9 
2/2 
•2.1 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 

1.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.7 
2/2 

2/2 

•2/2 
1  0* 
1/2 

1.) 

3.0 
•2.4 
•2.4 
1.4 
1.4 

Ofi 

1 
1 

1 
2 
2 

•2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
4 
2 
2 
4 

2 
2 

23. 

2 
2 
2 
4 

6 
4 
3 
2 
2 

2 

2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
4 

2 
2 
2 
9, 

1.3 
1.3 

2 
2 

14 
14 

vt 

1.5 

2 
2 

13 

13 

p't 

1.5 
1.5 

2 
2 

13 

13 

p't 

1.5 
1.5 

2 
2 

12 
12 

1.4 
1.4 

2 

2 

12 
12 

p't 

1.4 
1.4 

2 
2 

10 
10 

p't 

- 

- 

2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
4 
2 
2 
4 

2 

2 
23. 
2 
2 
2 
4 

6 
4 
3 

2 
2 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 

2 

4 
2 
2 
2 
2 

14 
1-2 
10 

8 

14 

7 

7 
7 
7 

16 
16 
12 
1-2 
8 
8 
7 

7 
7 
7 
9 
12 

12 

12 

8 
8 

7 

18 
16 
16 
16 
9 

a 

2,0 
1.4 
1.4 

1.2 

1/2 
1/2 
1/2 
1/2 
1/2 

1.8 
1.8 
•2.0 

LO 
1.0 
.9 

.9 
.9 
1.0 
1.6 
•2.0 

•2.0 

2.0 
1.2 
1/2 

1.0 

2.5 
1.8 
1.8 
1.4 
1.4 
9,5 

I 

2 
2 

4 
2 
2 
4 

2 
2 

23. 
2 
2 
2 
4 

6 
4 
3 

2 
2 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 

2 
4 
2 
2 
2 

9, 

12 
11 
9 

8 

14 

7 

7 

7 
7 

15 
15 
11 
10 
7 
7 
7 

7 
7 
6 
9 
11 

11 

11 
6 

6 

7 

18 
16 
16 
15 

9 

8 

1.9 
1.4 
1.4 

1/2 

1/2 
1/2 
1/2 
1/2 
1/2 

1.8 
1,8 

1.9 
l.b 
.9 
.9 
.9 

.9 
.9 
.9 
1.6 
2.0 

2.0 

•2.0 
1/2 
1/2 

1.0 

2.5 

1.8 
1.8 
1.4 
1.4 
9,4 

2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
4 
2 
2 
4 

2 
2 

23. 

12 
11 
9 

8 

14 

7 
7 
7 
7 

14 
14 
11 

1.9 
1.4 
1.4 

1.2 

1/2 
1.2 
1.2 
1/2 
1.2 

1.7 
1.7 

1.9 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 

2 
2 
2 
4 

2 

10 
9 

8 

7 

12 
6 
6 
6 
6 

10 

1.6 
1.2 
1.2 

1.1 

.1 
.1 
.1 
.1 
.1 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

- 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

23. 

8 

1.6 

23. 

7 

1.2 

- 

2 
2 
4 

6 
4 
3 
2 
2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

1 
2 
1 
2 

9 

7 
7 
7 

7 
7 
6 
9 
11 

11 

11 
6 

6 

7 

1(3 
14 
14 
15 
8 
fi 

.9 
.9 

.9 

.9 
.9 
.9 
1.6 
2.0 

2.0 

2.0 
1/2 
1/2 

1.0 

2.2 
1.5 

1.5 
1.4 
1.0 
94 

2 
2 
2 

6 
4 
3 
2 

2 

2 

2 
2 
2 

2 
1 

6 
6 
6 

6 
6 
6 

8 
8 

8 

10 
5 
5 

6 
14 

.9 
.9 

.8 

.8 
.8 
.9 
1.4 
1.6 

1.6 

1.8 
1.2 
1.2 

.9 

2.0 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

; 

- 

1 

10 

2.0 

1 

10 

•2.0 

2 
2 

i  9 

14 
7 

7 

1.0 
.9 

00 

374      A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  Dif« 


Names  of 

Descrip- 
tion of 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

: 
Frig- 
ates. 

IstClasa 

3    DECKS 

2  DECKS. 

IstClass 

2d  Class. 

Blocks. 

i 

£ 

J"' 

^ 

•f 

Block. 

jj 

_o 

ji 

1 

I 

V. 

1 
<» 

c 

jj 

S 

a 

"3 
E 

M 

| 

j 

02 

02 

i 

S 

in 

1 

c 
z, 

5 

0} 

MAIN  TOP-MAST  & 

YARD—  Continued. 

Breast  Backstays    - 

D. 

4 

IE 

1.4 

15 

1.4 

4 

15 

1.4 

4 

14 

1.4 

4 

14|  1.  4 

Breast  Backstays    - 

T.  Iron  b'd 

415 

1.4 

15 

1.4 

4 

15 

1.4 

4 

14 

1.4 

4 

14 

1.4 

Stay  leading  in  Fore 

Ton 

S. 

1 

15 

3.6 

1 

15 

3.6 

1 

15 

3.6 

1 

14 

3.6 

1 

14 

3.6 

Spring  Stay    leading 

in  Fore  Top    -    - 

s. 

1 

15 

3.6 

] 

15 

3.6 

1 

15 

3.6 

1 

14 

3.6 

1 

14 

3.6 

Gin  Blocks  (To  be  fit- 

j 

ted  with  band  over 

Trestle  Trees     - 

S. 

2 

18 

2.7 

2 

18 

2.7 

r 

18 

2.7 

2 

18 

2.7 

2 

17 

2.7 

Tye  Blocks  -    -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

20 

2.7 

f 

20 

2.7 

C 
i| 

20 

2.7 

2 

18 

2.6 

2 

18 

2.6 

Fly  Blocks    -    -    - 

D. 

2 

24 

1.6 

2 

241  1.6 

2 

24 

1.6 

2 

24 

1.6 

2 

22 

1.5 

Fly  Blocks    -    -    - 

S. 

2 

24 

1.6 

2 

24 

1.6 

2 

24 

1.6 

2 

24 

1.6 

222 

1.5 

Leaders  for  Fly  Blocks 
Braces  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

s. 

2 

2 

22 

18 

1.6 

1.8 

c 

t 

2 

'22 

18 

1.6 

1.8 

2 
2 

2-2 
18 

1.6 

1.8 

2 

2 

20 

18 

1.6 

1.8 

220 
216 

1.6 
1.7 

Braces  on  Mizen  M'st 

s. 

2 

14 

1.8 

o 

3 

14 

1.8 

2 

14'  1.8 

2 

14 

1.8 

2 

14 

1.7 

Qicfpr* 

D. 

2 

20 

2.3 

2 

20 

2.5 

2 

20  2  3 

2<>n 

2  3 

0 

1Q 

2  2 

Leaders  for  Lifts    - 

S.  Clamp. 

2 

12 

2^3 

c 

12 

2.3 

2 

12|  2.3 

^ 

10 

2^3 

<6li^ 
210 

22 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

D. 

o 

10 

1.0 

c 

10 

1.0 

2 

10 

1.0 

2 

10 

1.0. 

2|lO 

10 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

S. 

g 

10 

1.0 

e 

10 

1.0 

2 

10 

1.0 

f 

10 

1.0 

2 

10 

10 

Gluarter  Blocks  -    - 

D.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

12 

1.7 

o 

13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

c 

13 

1.7 

O 

4 

13 

I.-* 

Clew-lines    in  Clews 

of  sail  -    -    -    - 

S. 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

Hi 

Rolling  Tackle  -    - 

D. 

1 

11 

1.6 

1 

11 

1.6 

1 

11 

1.6 

1 

11 

1.6 

1 

11 

U» 

Rolling  Tackle  -    - 

S. 

1 

11 

1.6 

1 

11 

1.6 

1 

11 

1.6 

1 

1] 

1.6 

1 

11 

l.« 

Bunt-lines      -    -    - 

S*  Iron  b'd. 

2 

13 

1.6 

2 

1  ^ 
LO 

1.6 

2 

13 

1.6 

2 

13 

1.6 

2 

121  1  '5 

Reef  Tackle  Whips 

S. 

4 

9 

1.3 

4 

9 

1.3 

4 

9 

1.3 

4 

9 

1.3 

4 

9  1.3 

Sheets    in   Clews    of 

1 

Sail 

0 

lO 

23 

o 

iq 

9  ^ 

10 

9  3 

9 

19 

2  2 

9 

1900 

Bunt-runner  -    - 

• 
S. 

m 

i 

1O 

10 

1.2 

li 
1 

-O 

10 

/w.o 
1.2 

1 

.O 

10 

i0.O 

1.2 

« 
1 

L& 

10 

L2 

,0 
1 

Li6 

9 

-w   w 

1  1 

Jigger  for  Bunt-runner 

D. 

I 

8 

1.4 

1 

8 

1.4 

1 

8 

1.4 

1 

8 

1.4 

1 

8 

14 

Jigger  for  Bunt-runner 

S. 

2 

7 

1.2 

2 

7 

1.2 

2 

7 

1.2 

2 

7 

1.2 

2 

7 

11 

Clew  Jiggers     -    - 

S. 

4 

9 

1.2 

4 

9 

1.2 

4 

9 

1.2 

4 

9 

1.2 

4 

8 

11 

Boom  Tricing-lines 

S. 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

10 

Bow-lines     in     Fore 

Ton  - 

q 

9 

10 

1C 

9 

q 

i  e 

q 

i  i 

9 

iq 

1    C 

9 

1  9 

i  ^ 

Span  for  Studding-sail 

o. 

tm 

10 

.0 

X 

.0 

I.u 

lO 

1.1 

2 

1O 

l.O 

A 

lie 

l.O 

Halliards   -    -    - 

s. 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

12 

1.6 

Jewel  Blocks     -    - 

s. 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

3 

1.7 

2 

3 

1.7 

2 

13 

1.7 

2 

12 

1.6 

Studding-sail    Tacks 
on  Boom  ends     - 

s. 

2 

10 

1.6 

2 

0 

1.6 

2 

10 

1.6 

2 

9 

1.5 

2 

8 

1.4 

Studding-sail   Down- 

hauler  in  Sails    - 

s. 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0  2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

7 

.9 

Leaders    for     Boom- 

braces  on  Bumkin 

s. 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

Q 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

MAIN  TOP-GAL'NT 

MAST  AND  YARD. 

Top  Block     -    -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

1 

14 

2.2 

1 

4 

2.2 

1 

14 

2.2 

1 

14 

2.2 

1 

13 

2.0 

Breast  Backstays   - 

S. 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

1 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1; 

2 

10 

1.1 

Breast    Backstays  in 

j 

Channels   -    -    - 

D.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

1 

1.1 

2 

11 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

101  1.1 

Halliards-    -    -    - 

D. 

212 

1.3l  2 

2 

1.3 

2 

12 

1.3 

2iJ2 

1.3 

3)101  1  3 

Cerent  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S,  N.— Oont'd.  375 


Frig- 

ates. 

Sloops  of  War. 

Brigs. 

Brigaii- 
tines. 

Schoon- 
ers. 

Steam* 
ers. 

2d 

L 

4 
4 

1 

1 

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376      A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  DIf- 


Ships  of  the  Line. 

Frig- 

Descrip- 

3   DECKS 

2  DECKS. 

Razees. 

ates. 

Names  of 

tion  of 

lstClass.|2d  Class. 

IstClass. 

Blocks. 

Block. 

| 

I  1 

| 

.   1 

1 

i 

a 

ho 

CO 

i 

1 

00 

z 

(K 

6 

1 

1 

o1  s  'i 

f,     GO      CO 

6 

s  * 

JO.    00 

MAIN  TOP-GAL'NT 

MAST  &  YARD.  Con. 

I 

i 

Braces  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

101  1.1 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

Braces   on  Collar  of 

1 

Miz.  Top-mast  Stay 

s. 

2 

7 

1.2 

2 

7 

1.2 

7  1.2 

2 

7 

1.0 

6 

1.0 

Braces  at  Mizen  Top- 
mast-head -    -    - 

s. 

2 

7 

1.2 

2 

7 

1.2 

7 

2 

7 

1.0 

6 

1.0 

Sister  -    -    -    -    - 

s. 

2 

10 

1.6 

2 

10 

1.6 

10 

1.6 

2 

9 

1.5 

9 

1.5 

Lifts  in  Top  -    -    - 

S.  Clamp. 

2 

9 

1.6 

2 

9 

1.6 

9 

1.6 

2 

9 

1.5 

9 

1.5 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

D. 

2 

9 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

9 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

8 

.9 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

S. 

21  9 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

9 

1.0 

2 

9 

1.0 

8 

.9 

Q,uarter~B  locks  -    - 

D. 

210 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

10 

1.4 

Bunt-lines      -    -    - 

S. 

2 

8 

.9 

2 

8 

.9 

8 

.9 

2 

8 

.9 

7 

.8 

Span    Blocks,    Main 

Top-gallant    Stud- 

ding-sail Halliards 

S. 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

Jewel  Blocks     -    - 

s. 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

Studding-sail    Tacks 

on  Boom  ends     - 

s. 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

G 

1.0 

MA'N  ROYAL  MAST 

AND  YARD. 

Breast  Backstays    - 

s. 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

Breast    Backstays  in 
Ton 

[).  Iron  b'd. 

2 

9 

1.1 

2 

9 

l.l 

2 

q 

1.1 

2 

Q 

1  0 

2 

Q 

1.0 

Royal  Braces  Mizen 

j 

O 

l.U 

Top-gallant  Mast- 

head     -    --- 

s. 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

71.1 

duarter  Blocks 

s. 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

7 

.9 

2 

G 

.8 

2 

61    .8 

Bunt-line  -    -    -    - 

s. 

1 

G 

.9 

1 

G 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

6 

.9 

1 

6!    .9 

Bow-lines    leading  to 

1 

F.  T.  G.  Mast-head 

s. 

2 

G 

.8 

2 

G 

.8 

2 

6 

.8 

2 

G 

.8 

2 

G 

.8 

MAIN    TRY-SAIL 

MAST  &  GAFF. 

1 

Peak  Halliards  -    - 

D.  Iron  b'd. 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12]  1.4: 

1 

12 

1.4 

Peak  Halliards  -    - 

S. 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12)  1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

Throat  Halliards    - 

D. 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4! 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

Throat  Halliards   - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

Peak  Brails  ... 

Cheek. 

Throat  Brails    -    - 

S. 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

Middle  Brails    -    - 

S. 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2; 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

Foot  Brails    -    -    - 

s. 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

Sheets  • 

s. 

A 

10 

i  ^ 

A 

10 

1    ^ 

A 

10 

1    ^ 

4 

10 

1    d' 

A 

o 

1  A 

Sheets  on  Booms  of 

I 

J-U 

l.O 

l\J 

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LU 

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two-masted  vessels 

D. 

Vangs  

S. 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

2 

8 

1.2 

MIZEN  MAST  AND 

,     1 

CROSS-JACK  Y'RD. 

j 

Pendant  Tackles    - 

D. 

2,14 

1.6  2 

14 

1.6 

2 

14 

1.6 

2 

13 

1.5 

2113  1.5 

Pendant  Tacklos    - 

S. 

2114 

1.6   2 

14 

1.6 

2 

14 

1.6 

2 

13 

1.5 

2  13)  1.5 

Truss  Tackles  -    - 

D. 

1   9 

l.ll  1 

9 

1.1 

1 

9 

1.1, 

1 

8 

1.0; 

l|  8)1  0 

ferent  Blocks  of  al!  classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S.  N. — Confd.  377 


Frig, 
ates. 

Sloops  of  War. 

Brigs. 

Brigaii- 

Schoon- 

Steam- 

2d  Class. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class.  1  3d  Class. 

tines. 

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378      A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  Dif- 


Ships  of  the  Line. 

Frig. 

Descrip- 

2 DECKS. 

Razees 

ates. 

Names  of 

tion  of 

o   DECKS 

IstClass 

2d  Class 

IstClass. 

Blocks. 

* 

i 

i 

$ 

|j 

Block. 

_s 

J2 

j 

:§ 

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i 

02 

1 

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a 

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3D 

MIZEN  MAST  AND 

CR.JACKY'RD.  Con 

Truss  Tackles  -    - 

s. 

i 

9 

1.1 

1 

9 

1.1 

1 

9 

1.1 

1 

8 

1.0 

1 

8 

1.0 

Quarter  Blocks  -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd 

;  c 

i 

1« 

2.0 

^ 

12 

2.0 

$ 

12 

2.0 

2 

11 

2.0 

Q 

3 

11 

2.0 

Braces  on  Yard-arms 

S. 

i  $ 

12 

1.4 

$ 

12 

1.4 

2 

12 

1.4 

<r 

11 

1.4 

2 

11 

1.4 

Braces  leading  under 
Main  Trestle  Trees 

D. 

2 

10 

1.4 

i 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.4 

jLifts  on  Cap  -    -    - 

S. 

2 

12 

1.8 

i 

12 

1.8 

: 

12 

1.8 

2 

11 

1.8 

f 

11 

1.8 

duarter    Davit    Top- 

ping-lifts   -    -    - 

D. 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

: 

10 

1.2 

2 

c 

1.2 

r 

9 

1.2 

Quarter    Davit    Top- 

ping-lifts   -    -    - 

S. 

2 

10 

1.2 

<r 

10 

1.2 

2 

10 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

MIZEN    TOP-MAST 

AND  YARD. 

Top  Blocks   -    -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

17 

2.8 

( 

17 

2.8 

17 

2.8 

2 

16 

2.6 

1 

15 

2.4 

Top  Burtons      -    - 

Fiddle. 

a 

18 

1.1 

( 

Ib 

1.1 

18 

1.1 

2 

18 

1.1 

2 

16 

1.1 

Top  Burtons      -    - 

S. 

2 

10 

1.1 

c 

10 

1.1 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

l.l 

Top  Runners      -    - 

S. 

2 

10 

1  5 

2 

10 

1.5 

10 

1.5 

2 

10 

1.5 

2 

10 

1.4 

Breast  Backstays    - 

D. 

a 

13 

u 

13 

2 

13 

1.3 

2 

13 

1.3 

Breast  Backstays    - 

T.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

lo 

i 

13 

1.3 

2 

13 

1.3 

2 

13 

1.3 

Stay  leading  in  Main 

"Prm 

S. 

1  m 

2.5 

1 

10 

2.5 

j 

10 

2.5 

1 

10 

2.5 

1 

8 

20 

TVP 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

j 

13 

2.5 

1 

13 

2.5 

] 

13 

2.5 

1 

13 

2.5 

1 

12 

20 

Flv 

D. 

] 

16 

1.4 

1 

16 

I  A 

j 

16 

1.4 

1 

L6 

1.4 

1 

5 

1  4 

en. 

s' 

j 

16 

1  4 

1 

16 

I  A 

j 

K 

1A 

1 

L6 

1.4 

1 

5 

1  4 

Braces  on  Yard-arms 

B. 

2 

1U 

12 

13 

2 

12 

L3 

2 

12 

1.3 

2 

12 

L3 

2 

1 

1R 

Braces  leading  at  the 

Main  Masthead  - 

S. 

2 

12 

1.3 

2 

12 

1.3 

2 

12 

1.3 

2 

12 

1.3 

2 

11 

I1,? 

Sister        -              - 

D. 

18 

1.7 

2 

18 

1.7 

f 

18 

1.7 

2 

18 

1.7 

2 

16 

1  'l 

Leaders  for  Lifts    - 

S.  Clamp. 

c 

LI 

2 

c 

1.7 

c 

1.7 

2 

8 

1.7 

2 

8 

VI 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

D. 

8 

.8 

c 

8 

.8 

8 

.8 

2 

8 

.8 

2 

8 

S 

Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 

S. 

8 

.8 

c 

8 

.8 

8 

.8 

2 

8 

.8 

2 

8 

.8 

Quarter  Blocks 

D.  Iron  b'd. 

11 

1.4 

2 

11 

1.4 

11 

1.4 

2,10 

1.4 

2 

0 

14 

Clew-lines    in  Clews 

of  sail  -    -    -    - 

S. 

9 

9 

1.4 

2 

Cj 

1.4 

* 

g 

1.4 

2 

8 

1.3 

2 

8 

1.3 

Rolling  Tackle  -    - 

S. 

1 

8 

1.2 

1 

8 

1.2 

8 

1.3 

1 

8 

1.2 

1 

8 

1.2 

Rolling  Tackle  -    - 

D. 

1 

8 

1.2 

1 

8 

1.2 

8 

1.2; 

1 

8 

1.2 

1 

8 

1.3 

Bunt-lines     ... 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

0 

1.1 

Reel  Tackle  Whips 

S. 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

17 
i 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

2 

7 

1.1 

Sheets    in  Clews    of 

Sail  -         -    - 

Q 

Q 

20 

2 

[1 

20 

i 

20 

0 

10 

i  q 

2i10 

1.9 

Bunt-runner  -    -    - 

o. 

s. 

ij 

1 

8 

LO 

1 

8 

i!o 

.  i 

8 

1.0 

20 
1 

1U 

8 

A*«f 

1.0 

wl&V 

1   8 

LO 

Jigger  for  Bunt-runner 

s. 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

8 

1.0 

2 

7  i.o; 

2l  7 

1.0 

Clew  Jiggers     -    - 

s. 

4 

8 

1.0 

4 

8 

1.0 

4 

8 

1.0 

4 

8  1.0 

4 

8 

1.0 

Bow-lines  in  the  Main 

1 

Tnn 

s. 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

2 

91.0 

2 

8 

1.0 

MIZEN  TOP-GAL'T 

MAST  &  YARD. 

Top  Block    -    -    - 

S.  Iron  b'd. 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

12 

1.4 

1 

2 

1.4 

1 

1/11.4 

lill' 

1.4 

Breast  Backstays   - 
Breast    Backstays  in 
Channels   -    -    - 

S. 
D.  Iron  b'd. 

2 

2 

12 

isi 

1.4 
1.4 

2 

2 

12 
12 

1.4 
1.4 

2 
2 

12 

2 

1.4 
1.4 

2 

2 

11  1.4 
111  1.4 

211  1.4 
2'lJ    '.4 

ferent  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  Ui  S.  N, — Confd.   379 


Frig- 
ates. 

Sloops  of  War. 

Brigs. 

B  rig  ail  - 
tines. 

Sclioon 
era. 

Steam- 
ers. 

ad  Class 

1st  Class 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class- 

1 

1 

| 

1 

03 

1 

I 

02 

| 

00 

| 

1 

S 

"3 
£ 

05 

1 

t 

ie 

| 

GO 

| 

a 
.£ 

X 

| 

73 

1 

i 

N 

'•£ 

! 

i 

rJT 

| 

? 
'SI 

1 

0 

£ 

_§ 

03 

2 
2 

& 

2 

2 
2 

1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

1 

1 
1 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
1 
1 
9 
2 

2 
1 
2 
2 

9 

i 

1    ! 

2 

2 

p' 
10 
10 

8 
10 

f 
9 

4 

6 
0 
10 
12 
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14 

10 

10 
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8 
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7 
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8 
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7 
9 
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10 

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10 
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10 
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14 
10 

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[5 
8 
7 
7 
9 

8 
7 
7 
9 
6 

9 

8 
7 

7 

7i 

10 
10 

10 

1.8 
1.3 

1.3 
1.7 

1.2 
1.2 

2/9 
1.0 
1.D 
1.4 
1.2 
12 

20 

1.2 
1.2 
1.1 

1.1 
1.5 
1.5 
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1.3 

1.3 

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1.4 
1.4 

i  .1 

1.8 
j  j 

13 
1.7 

1.2 
1.2 

2.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.4 
1:2 
1.2 

2.0 

1.2 
1.2 

1.1 

1.1 
1.5 
1.5 
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1.3 

1.3 
1.0 
1.0 
1.1 
1.0 

1.8 
1.0 
1.0 

.8 

.8 

1.4 
1.4 

1,4 

2 

2 

2 
2 

2 
2 

1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

1 

1 
1 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
1 
1 
2 

2 

2 
1 
2 
2 

2 

1 
2 

2 

9 
B 

8 
8 

b 
8 

14 
1-1 
9 
9 
11 
11 

8 

12 
12 
10 

10 
13 

7 
7 

7 
8 

7 

1 

8 
7 
6 
7 

7 

9 

9 

9 

1.7 
1.2 

1.2 
1.5 

1.1 
1.1 

2.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.2 
1.2 
1.2 

2.0 

1.1 
1.1 
1.1 

1.1 
1.5 
1.5 

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.8 
1.3 

1.2 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 

1.7 
.9 
.9 

.8 

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1.3 
1.3 

1  3 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 
2 

1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

1 

1 
1 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 

2 
1 

1 
2 

2 

2 
1 
2 
2 

2 

1 

2 

2 

& 
r 

6 
8 
8 

13 
14 
9 
9 
11 
11 

8 

1-2 
1-2 
9 

9 
13 
6 
6 
G 
8 

— 
/ 

6 
6 

8 
(3 

8 
7 
(i 
6 

G 

8 

8 

R 

1.6 
1.2 

1.1 
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1.1 
1.1 

1.8 
1.0 
1.0 
1.2 
1.2 
1.2 

2.0 

1.1 
1.1 
1.0 

1.0 
1.4 

1.4 
.7 
.7 
1.3 

1.2 
.9 
.9 
1.0 
1.0 

1.7 
.9 
.9 

.7 

.7 

1.3 
1.3 

1  3 

2 
2 

2 
2 

2 

2 

1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

1 

1 
1 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
1 

1 
2 
2 

2 
1 
2 

2 

2 

1 

2 

9, 

8 
8 

8 
8 
8 

13 
14 
r 
c 
11 
11 

& 

11 
11 

& 

8 
13 
G 
G 
6 
8 

6 
6 
6 

7 

G 

8 
7 
G 
G 

G 

9 

8 

S 

1.6 
1.1 

1.1 
1.5 

1.1 
1.1 

1.8 

.£ 

g 

- 

2 
2 

2 
2 

2 

2 

1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

1 

1 
1 
2 

2 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 

2 
1 
1 
2 
2 

2 
1 

2 
2 

2 

1 
2 

9 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

~ 

- 

- 

~ 

- 

1  ° 

~ 

1  ° 

~ 

- 

2.0 

1.0 
1.0 

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c 
1.4 
1.4 

.  i 
.  / 
1.3 

1.1 
.9 
.9 
.9 
1.0 

1.7 
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.7 

.7 

1.3 
1.3 

1  3 

- 

- 

- 

- 

~ 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

] 

380      A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  Dif- 


Names  of 
Blocks. 

Descrip- 
tion of 
Block. 

Ships  of  the  Lino. 

Razees. 

FriS- 
ates. 

IstClass 

3   DECKS 

2  DECKS. 

lstClass.|2d  Class 

0 

£ 

S 
» 

| 

£ 

00 

o 

£ 

g 

OS 

1 

£ 

03 

& 

1 

!| 
02 

I 

S 

'   OD 

| 

o 
¥ 

I 

#' 

J2 

JL 
i.y 

1.2 

1.0 
1.3 

MIZEN   TOP-GAL'T 
MAST  &  YARD.  Con 

Halliards      ... 
Halliards      -    -    - 
Braces  on  Yard-arms 
Braces  on  Main  Top- 
mast Backstays  - 

D. 

S. 

D. 

S. 

S. 
D. 
S. 
D. 

S. 

D. 

S. 

D.Ironb'd. 
S. 

S. 

S. 
S. 

S. 
D. 

S. 
D. 

S. 
D.Ironb'd. 
S. 
D. 

S.  Iron  b'd.: 
Cheek. 

S. 
S. 
S. 
S. 
S. 

S. 
D. 

1 
1 

2 
2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

1 
t 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 

1 

2 

2 

2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 

8 

8 

G 

8 

1.2 

1.2 

1.0 

.M 

1 

8 
8 

6 

8 

1.2 
1.2 

1.0 
1.4 

1 
1 

2 
c 

o 

S 
8 

G 
8 

1.2 

1.2 

1.0 
1.4 

1 

2 
2 

8 

8 

G 

1.2 
1.2 

1.0 
1.3 

1 

1 

2 
2 

0 

8 
8 

G 

7 

Lifts  in  Top  (Bull's 
Eyes)    -    -    -    - 
Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 
Lift  Jiggers  -    -    - 
duarter  Blocks 
Bunt-line  -    -    -    - 
Bow-lines   at    Main 
Top-mast  head    - 

MIZ.  ROYAL  MAST 
AND  YARD. 

Breast  Backstays    - 
Breast    Backstays  in 

7 
/ 
i 

7 

7 

7 
G 

G 

G 
G 

13 
12 

12 
12 
12 
14 
13 

1.0 
1.0 
1.2 
1.2 

1.2 

.8 

.8 
.8 

1.0 

1.0 
1.0 

2.7 
1.2 

1.2 
1.7 
1.7 
1.4 
1.4 

1 

2 

o 

^ 

2 

9 

m 

i 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
1 

2 

r+ 

t*» 
/ 

f* 
i 

7 

7 
G 

G 

6 
G 

13 
12 

12 
12 
12 
14 
13 

1.0 
l.C 

1.2 

1.2 
1.2 

.8 

.8 

.8 

1.0 

1.0 
1.0 

2.7 
1.2 

1.2 
1.7 
1.7 
1.4 
1.4 

i 
S 

t 

I 

o 

2 

o 
2 

2 

2 
1 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

7 

7 
7 
7 

7 

7 

7 
6 

G 

6 
G 

13 

12 

12 
12 
12 
14 
13 

1.0 
1.0 
1.2 
1.2 

1.2 

, 

.8 
.8 

1.0 

1.0 
1.0 

2.7 

1.2 

1.2 
1.7 
1.7 
1.4 
1.4 

2 
2 

2 

2 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 
1 

2 
2 

2 
2 

2 
1 
2 
1 

1 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 

»~ 

T 

7 

6 

G 
G 

G 

G 

G 

13 
12 

12 
12 
12 
13 
12 
13 
13 

9 
8 
8 
13 
8 

8 

1.0 
1.0 
1.2 
1.2 

1.2 

.8 

.8 
.8- 

1.0 

1.0 

1.0 

2.7 
1.2 

1.2 
1.7 
1.7 
1.4 
1.4 
1.4 
1.4. 

.2 
.1 
1 

7 

2 

1.2 

o 
f 

x 
1 

2 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 
1 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

2i 
il 

7 

7 
7 

7 

7 

6 

G 
6 

G 

6 
G 

12 
11 

11 
11 

L3 
12 

1.0 
1.0 
1.2 
1.2 

1.2 

.8 

.8 
.8 

1.0 

1.0 
1.0 

2.5 

1.2 

1.2 
1.5 
1.5 
1.4 
1.4 
1.4 
1.4 

1.1 
1.0 
1.0 
1.5 
1.1 

l.l 

Quarter  Blocks  -    - 
Braces    Main    Top- 
mast-head -    -    - 
Bow-lines  leading    to 
M'n  Top-masi  head 
Bunt-lines     ... 

•SPANKER    BOOM 
AND  GAFF. 

1  opping-lifts      -    - 
Tackles  for  Topping- 
lift  <5 

Tackles  for  Topping- 
lifts: 

Peak  Halliards  -    - 
Peak  Halliards  -    . 
Throat  Halliards    - 
Throat  Halliards   - 
Peak  Brails       -    - 
Throat  Brails 
Middle  Brails    -    - 
Foot  Brails   -    -    - 
Outhauler     ... 

14 

9 

8 
8 
13 
8 

8 

1.4 

1.2 
1.1 
1.1 
1.7 
1.2 

1.2 

1 

2 

2 
2 
1 

2 

2 

14 

9 

8 
8 
13 

8 

8 

1.4 

1.2 
1.1 
1.1 
1.7 
1.2 

1.2 

1 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 

14 

9 
8 
8 
13 

8 

8 

1.4 

1.2 
1.1 
1.1 
1.7 
1.2 

1.2 

13 

8 

8 
8 
12 

7 

7 

Vangs     leading     on 
Quarter     -    -    - 
Dasher    Block    (En- 
sign Halliards)  - 

ferent  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S.  N. — Cont'd.  381 


Frig- 
ates. 

3d  Class. 

Sloops  of  War. 

1 

Brigs. 

Brigau- 
tinea. 

Schoon- 
ers. 

|  Steam- 
ers. 

'1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

3d  Class. 

A 
A 

| 

.(. 

OJ 

i 

! 

j 
02 

c 

2 

| 

X 

1 
£ 

1 

| 

i 

=5 

1 

| 

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OQ 

jt 

00 

A 

Z 

S 

X 

02 

1 

g 

X 

\ 

X 

: 

0 

| 

BO 

7 
7 

5 

7 

6 
6 
6 
6 

G 

G 

G 
6 

5 

5 

5 

12 
10 

10 
10 
10 
12 
11 
12 
12 

S 
8 
8 
12 
7 

7 

| 

M 

1 

2 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
1 

2 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 
1 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
I 
2 
I 
I 

2 
2 
2 

1 
2 

2 
1 

7 

7 

5 
7 

6 
6 

6 
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6 
6 

5 

5 
5 

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10 
10 
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11 
12 
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8 
8 
8 
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1.0 
1.0 

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1.3 

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1.1 
1.1 

.8 

.8 

.8 

.9 

.9 
.9 

2.5 
1.1 

1.1 
1.4 
1.4 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 

1.1 
1.0 
1.0 
1.5 
1.1 

1.1 

- 

1 

1 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 

2 
1 

2 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 
1 

2 

2 

2 

2 
2 
1 

1 
1 

1 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 

7 

7 

5 

G 

1.0 
1.0 

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1.2 

1 
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2 

2 

0 

6 
6 

4 
G 

.9 
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1.2 

1 
1 

2 
2 

0 

6 
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5 
5 

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9 
LO 

1 
1 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
1 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 

2 
1 

2 
2 

2 

2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 

2 

1 

l\ 

2 

f 

1.0 
1.0 

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1.3 

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1.1 
l.< 

l.l 

8 

8 
8 

9 

9 
9 

25 
11 

1.1 
1.4 
1.4 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 

1.1 
1.0 
1.0 
1.5 
1.1 

l.l 

: 

6 

G 
6 
5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 
5 

11 
9 

,8 

10 

11 

10 

11 
11 

8 
7 
7 
10 

7 

7 

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1.1 

1.0 

1.0 

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.8 

.8 

.9 

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2.0 
1.0 

1.0 
1.4 
1.4 
1.2 
1.3 
1.2 
1.2 

1.1 
.9 
.9 
1.4 
1.1 

1.1 

2 
2 
2 
1 

2 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 
1 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 

5 
5 
5 
5 

5 

5 

5 
5 

5 

5 
5 

11 

S 

S 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

7 
7 
7 
9 
7 

7 

.8 
.8 
1.0 
1.0 

1.0 

.8 

.8 
.8 

.& 

.8 
.8 

2.0 
.9 

.9 

1.4 
1.4 
1.1 
1.2 
1.1 
1.1 

1.0 
.9 
.9 
1.2 
1.1 

1.1 

2 
2 
2 
1 

2 

2 

2 
2 

2 

2 
1 

2 

2 

2 
2 
o 
j 
1 
1 
1 

2 
2 
2 
1 
2 

2 
1 

5 
5 
5 
5 

5 

5 

5 
5 

5 

5 
5 

11 

S 

8 
10 
10 
10 
9 
10 
10 

7 
7 
7 
9 
G 

6 

.8 
.8 
1.0 
.9 

.9 

.8 

.8 
.8 

.8 

.8 
.8 

2.0 
.9 

.9 
1.4 
1.4 
1.1 
1.1 
1.1 
1.1 

1.0 
.9 
.9 
1.2 
.9 

.9 

2 
2 
2 

10 

6 
S 

1.8 
.9 
.9 

2 
4 

2 

10 
10 
10 

1.8 
1.1 
1.1 

2 
4 
2 

11 
11 

11 

2.0 
1.2 
1.2 

_ 

: 

] 

j 

1 

- 

-, 

1 

1 

3S2      A  Table  showing  the  Size  and  Description  of  the  Dii- 


Names  of 

Des. 
of 

Ships  of  the  Line. 

Razees. 

Frig- 
ates. 

1st  Class, 

3   DECKS. 

2  DECKS. 

1st  Class. 

2d  Class. 

Blocks. 

£ 

^ 

i  ' 

> 

i 

Bl'clt. 

Js 

o 

.2 

J2 

-2 

1 

a 

"5 
•f 

(0 

1 

0 

02 

| 

3 

cc 

'£ 

OQ 

1 

<£ 

1 

03 

1 

a 

! 

MISCELLANEOUS 

BLOCKS. 

Cat  Blocks    -    -    - 

T. 

2 

20 

2.6 

2 

20 

2.6 

2 

20 

2.6 

2 

20i2.5 

2 

18 

23 

Cat  Backropes  -    - 
Fish  Tackle       -    - 

S. 
D. 

4 

4 

9 

20 

1.2 
2.2 

4 

4 

9 

20 

1.2 
2.2 

4 

4 

9 

20 

1.2 

2.2 

4 

4 

911.2 

202.2 

4 
4 

8 
20 

1.1 
2.0 

Fish  Leaders     -    - 

S. 

0 

u 

18 

2.2 

3 

18 

2.2 

3 

18 

2.2 

3 

1&2.& 

3 

16 

1.8 

1 

-i 

Clear  Hawse  Pend'nts 
Bull's  Eyes  for  clothes- 

linps  -     . 

. 

1 

100 

100 

100 

100 

J 

80 

r     Vit 

2 

2 

0 

2 

_! 

2 

Cap  Bobstay  Hearts 

mj  Jl  _  ——.  J  T  TT?—  A- 

Li.  V  It. 

LVit 

A 

4 

dole  ana  inner  ±1  rts 
Bowsprit  Shr'ds  H'rts 

.  Vlt. 

L.Vit. 

1 

8 

- 

_ 

8 

- 

_ 

& 

_ 

_ 

8 

_ 

-| 

8 

_ 

- 

Iron-strapped     Bull's 

Eyes  (in  head),  size 

and  number  as  req'd 
Luff  Tackle  Blocks 

S. 

60 

12 

1.4 

60 

12 

1.4 

60 

12 

1.4 

60 

12 

1. 

40 

12 

1.4 

Luff  Tackle  Blocks  for 

Stays     -    --- 

D. 

16 

15 

1.8 

16 

15 

1.8 

16 

15 

1.8 

16 

14 

1.6 

16 

14 

1.6 

Leading    Rigging  on 

Fo'castle  and  Gang- 
ways    -    -    -    - 

Assort 

12 

_ 

12 

_ 

_ 

12 

_ 

12 

_ 

_ 

12 

_ 

__ 

Fife-rail  Leaders    - 

S.  d.sc 

56 

_ 

56 

_ 

_ 

56 

_ 

56 

_ 

_ 

56 

_ 

_ 

Bide  Leaders      -    - 

100 

- 

_ 

100 

- 

_ 

100 



_ 

100 

- 

™"i 

100 

- 

_ 

Snatch  Blocks    -    - 

Assort 

20 

— 

_ 

20 

— 

_ 

20 

_ 

20 

— 

J 

20 

_ 

_ 

Hammock  Girt-lines 

S. 

20 

1-2 

1.8 

20 

12 

1.8 

20 

1-2 

1.8 

20 

12 

1.8 

16 

11 

1.5 

Ham'ck  Tricing-lines 

S. 

12 

10 

1.4 

12 

10 

1.4 

12 

10 

1.4 

12 

10 

1.4 

12 

9 

1.0 

Relieving  Tackles  - 

D. 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

Relieving  Tackles  - 

S. 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

2 

10 

1.4 

Awning  Jiggers 

D. 

8 

10 

1.4 

8 

10 

1.4 

8 

10 

1.4 

8 

10 

1.4 

8 

9 

1.2 

Lower  Yard  Whips 

S. 

4 

9 

1.1 

4 

9 

1.1 

4 

9 

1.1 

4 

9 

1-1 

4 

8 

1.0 

Crow-foot    Halliards 

for  Awnings  -    - 

S. 

12 

7 

.9 

12 

7 

.9 

12 

"^ 

.9 

12 

7 

.9 

12 

7 

.9 

Stern,   Gluarter    and 

I 

Waist  Davit  Blocks 

D.Irb. 

20 

10 

1.4 

20 

10 

1.4 

20 

10 

1.4 

20 

10 

1.4 

12 

10 

1.4 

\eading  Trucks 

D. 

30 

- 

- 

30 

- 

_ 

30 

- 

- 

30 

- 

_ 

30 

- 

- 

Leading  Trucks     - 

S. 

30 

- 

_ 

30 

— 

_ 

30 

_ 

_ 

30 

_ 

_ 

30 

- 

— 

Fore  Yard     -    -    - 

Fiddle 

2 

33 

1.7 

2 

33 

1.7 

2 

33 

1.7 

2 

33 

1.7 

2 

33 

1.7 

Fore  Yard     -    -    - 

S. 

2 

18 

1.7 

2 

18 

1.7 

2 

18 

1.7 

2 

1G 

1.7 

2 

1G 

1.7 

Fore  Stay      -    -    - 

D. 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

1G 

1.7 

1 

16 

1.7 

Fore  Stay      ... 

S. 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

1G 

1.7 

1 

16 

1.7 

Main  Yard   -    -    - 

Fiddle 

2 

33 

1.7 

2 

33 

1.7 

2 

}3 

1.7 

2 

33 

1.7 

2 

33 

1.7 

Main  Yard   -    -    - 

S. 

2 

18 

1.7 

2 

18 

1.7 

2 

18 

1.7 

2 

1G 

1.7 

2 

16 

1.7 

Main  Stay    -    -    - 

D. 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

16 

1.7 

1 

16 

1.7 

Main  Stay     -    -    - 

S. 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

17 

1.7 

1 

1G 

1.7 

1 

1G 

1.7 

Gluarter  and  Stay  - 

S. 

4 

16 

1.6 

4 

16 

1.6 

4 

16 

1.6 

4 

15 

1.6 

4 

15 

1.6 

Dead  Eyes  (set)      - 
Stock  and  Bill  Tackle 

D. 

1 
2 

12 

1.6 

1 
2 

I   _ 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

212 

1.6 

Stock  and  Bill  Tackle 

S. 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

2 

12 

1.6 

Trucks  for  Jaws  of 

Gaff  (set)   -    -    - 

— 

1 

_ 

_ 

1 

_ 

_ 

1 

_ 

_ 

1 

_ 

_ 

1 

_ 

_. 

Masthead  Trucks(set) 

- 

1 

- 

- 

1 

- 

- 

1 

- 

- 

1 

- 

- 

1 

- 

- 

F.    T.    Studding-sail 

Boom  Burtons    - 

D. 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

210 

I.I 

F.    T.    Studding-sail 

1 

Booin  Burtons    - 

S. 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

2 

10 

1.1 

210IU 

ferent  Blocks  of  all  classes  of  Vessels,  U.  S«  N. —  Conc'd.  383 


F*rig- 
ates. 

Sloops  of  War. 

Brigs. 

Brigan- 

Schoou 

Steam- 

2d Class. 

1st  Class.)  2d  Class.  1  3d  Class. 

tines. 

ers. 

j 

j 

| 

j 

j 

1 

J 

j 

£ 

i 

1 

j 

n 

i 

1 

i 

00 

6 

1 

1 

i 

| 

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ra 

6 

4 

02 

o 

1 

I 

fZ* 

1 

.* 

3 

17 

2.1 

2 

16 

2.0 

2 

15 

1.9 

2 

14 

1.8 

2D 

13 

1.7 

2D 

12 

1.6 

2D 

11 

1.5 

17 

2.1 

C'  1    I 

4 

^ 

1  0 

7 

i  n 

4  8 

1  i 

4 

1  O    ."1  A 

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4  18 

°0 

4 

lo 

1  ft 

1  o 

3  16 

i  y 

3 

li 

fiO 

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40 

40 

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20 

20 

20 

60  - 

9, 

_ 

2 

_ 

_ 

2 

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2 

_ 

_ 

2 

_ 

_ 

2 

_ 

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2 

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4 

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1 

Q 

40 

11 

1.4 

24 

10 

1.2 

24 

10 

1.2 

24 

10 

1.2 

20 

10 

1.2 

20 

9 

1.1 

20 

9 

1.1 

40 

11 

1.4 

IG 

13 

1.5 

8 

12 

1.4 

8 

12 

1.3 

8 

11 

1.3 

8 

11 

1.3 

4 

10 

1.2 

4 

10 

1.2 

16 

13 

1.5 

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g 

g 

g 

1° 

40 

I 

-36 

_ 

_ 

36 

_ 

_ 

36 

_ 

_ 

20 

_ 

_ 

20 

_ 

_ 

20 

-1   - 

40 

_ 

_ 

100 

_ 

-80 

_ 

_ 

80 

_ 

_ 

70 

_ 

_ 

40 

- 

_ 

40 

- 

- 

20 

-I   _ 

100 

- 

- 

90 

_ 

-  15 

15 

_ 

_ 

15 

_ 

10 

_ 

_ 

10 

_ 

_ 

8 

_ 

- 

15 

— 

_ 

16 
19 

10 
9 

1.4  12 
1.0  12 

10 
9 

1.4  12 
1.0  12 

9 

8 

1.2 
1.0 

12 
12 

9 

8 

1.2 
1  0 

8 
8 

9 

7 

1.2 
.9 

8 
8 

9 
7 

1.2 

.9 

8 
8 

9 
7 

li 

16 
12 

101.4 
91.0 

2 

10 

1.4    -2 

10 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1  :> 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

2 

10 

1.4 

210 

1.4    2 

10 

1.4 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2 

2 

9 

1.2. 

2 

9 

1.2      2 

10 

1.4 

8 

9 

1.2    8 

8 

1.1 

8 

8 

1.1 

8 

7 

9 

6 

7 

.9 

6 

6 

.8 

G 

G 

.8 

- 

9 

1.2 

4 

8 

1.0 

4 

7 

1.0 

4 

7 

1.0 

4 

7 

1.0 

4 

G 

.8 

4 

G 

.8 

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G 

4 

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1.0 

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G 

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6 

6 

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6 

G 

.8 

6 

6 

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4 

5 

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4 

5 

.7 

4 

5 

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6 

6 

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10 

1.2 

10 

9 

1.1 

10 

9 

1.1 

10 

8 

1.0 

10 

8 

1.0 

10 

8 

1.0 

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8 

1.0 

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1.2 

30 

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20 

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30 

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30 

1.6 

2 

24 

1.5 

2 

22 

1.5 

2 

22 

1  4 

20 

1.4 

1 

20 

1.3 

1 

20 

1.3 

2 

30 

1.6 

2 

IG 

1.5 

2 

14 

1.5 

2 

13 

13 

2 

13 

1  3 

12 

1.2 

1 

12 

1.2 

1 

10 

1.1 

2 

16 

1.5 

1,15 

1.6 

1 

13  1.5 

1 

13 

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1 

13 

1.5 

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1.3 

1 

10 

1.2 

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4 

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12 

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384  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


625. — A  Table  showing  the  projective  Distances  from 
Spar-deek  of  U.  S.  Ship  North  Carolina. 


From  Night-head  to  Bowsprit  Cap  53  feet. 

to  Jib-boom  -  91     « 

"  "        to  Flying  Jib-boom  109     " 

to  Jib  of  Jib-Truck  -        -  128    " 


From  Spar-deck  to  Fore  Cap 
"         «         toF.  T.  M.  Cap       - 

122i  " 

h        "         to  F.  T.  Gallant  Cap    - 

145*  " 

"         "         to  F.  Royal  Cap 

170*  " 

"        "         to  F.  Sky-sail  Truck     - 

•       187*  " 

"         "          to  Main  Cap 

90     « 

«        "         to  M.  T.  M.  Cap 

-       141     " 

"         "         to  M.  T.  Gallant  Cap       - 

166     " 

«        «         to  M.  Royal  Cap 

-      193|  " 

"        "         to  M.  Sky-sail  Truck 

21H  " 

«        «         toMizenCap 

75f  " 

"        "         to  M.  T.  M.  Cap      - 

116     « 

"        "         to  M.  T.  Gallant  Cap  - 

-      136     " 

"        «         to  M.  Royal  Cap      - 

158     " 

"                  to  M.  Sky-sail  Truck    - 

-      173     " 

Length  on  Spar-deck 

209     >' 

Main  Gun-deck     ------ 

-      207    " 

Lower  Gun-deck       -        -        -                 - 

201     « 

Extreme  length  from  Night-head  to  Taffrail 

-      210     " 

i 

Ft.  In. 

Breadth  of  Beam      ------ 

53.6 

Depth  from  Taffrail  to  False  Keel  53.4 

Height  from  Water  to  Port-sill  7.6 

Height  between  deck  from  Spar  to  Main  Gun-deck  7.1 

"        "        "        from  Main  to  Lower  Gun-deck  7.3 
from  Lower  to  Orlop    - 

Size  of  Spar-deck  Beam                     -  10 

"    of  Main  Gun-deck  Beam        -        ...  1.3 

"    of  Lower  Gun-deck  Beam          -        -        -  -           1.3 

Height  from  Port-sills  to  Spar-deck                 -  .7 

"            "              to  Main  Gun-deck  1.11 

"             to  Lower  Gun-deck      -        -  2.2 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT. 


385 


Distance  between  Ports  No.    1  and    2,  Spar-deck 


It 

11 

2 

u 

3, 

u 

It 

tl 

3 

tt 

4, 

u 

- 

It 

It 

4 

u 

5, 

u 

It 

tt 

5 

ti 

6, 

u 

• 

u 

It 

6 

u 

7, 

«        I 

u 

11 

7 

ii 

8, 

It 

- 

" 

" 

8 

" 

*"  J 

« 

tt 

a 

9 

u 

10, 

u 

• 

tt 

u 

10 

tt 

11, 

11 

tl 

it 

11 

u 

12 

tt 

. 

u 

tt 

12 

u 

is; 

u 

tt 

it 

13 

a 

14, 

tl 

- 

" 

u 

14 

u 

15, 

" 

« 

tt 

15 

tt 

16 

" 

. 

« 

« 

16 

n 

17, 

" 

<; 

It 

1  T 

u 

1  Q 

u 

m 

j-  1 

5 

11 

After  Port  and 

Counter 

- 

U 

Bridle 

Port 

and  No.  1 

Main 

Gun- 

deck      ... 
"       All  the  other  Ports 
"      After  Port  and  Counter 


Ft  Iiv 

8.1 
12.5 

7. 

6.10 

8. 

8. 

8. 

7.9 

7. 

7.10 

5.10 

7. 
10.3 

6.8 
10.2 

9.9 

6. 

7.6 

11. 

8. 

12.6 


Between  Poi  is  on  Lower  Gun-deck  the  same. 


Size  of  Spar-deck  Ports 
*'        Main  Gun-deck  do. 
"        Lower  Gun-deck  do. 


Length. 

3.1 
3.6 
3.2 


Depth. 

3.6 

2.11 

2.11 


386 


THE  KEDGE-ANCHOR; 


I 


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OR  YOUJSG^  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT.  389 


RECIPES. 


5 2 7. —FOR  BLACKING  SHIP'S    STANDING-RIGGING. 

To  a  half  barrel  of  tar  add  6  gallons  of  whiskey,  4  pounds  of 
litharge,  4  pounds  lamp-black,  2  buckets  of  boiling  beef-pickle, 
or  hot  salt  water  out  of  the  coppers,  if  the  other  cannot  be  had 
conveniently ;  mix  well  together  and  apply  immediately. 


528.— FOR  BLACKING    GUNS. 

Six  pound  of  beeswax  mixed  with  one  gallon  of  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine, one  paper  of  lamp-black,  mixed  well  together,  for  twenty 
24  pounders. 

Note. — The  beeswax  to  be  cut  fine,  and  dissolved  in  spirits  of 
turpentine  before  being  mixed  with  the  lamp-black. 


529.— FOR  BLACKING   HAMMOCK-CLOTHS,  YARDS, 
AND  BENDS. 

First  scrub  the  cloth  well  with  salt  water,  and  while  wet  put 
on  the  first  coat  of  priming,  which  should  be  well-ground  paint, 
with  one  and-a-half  pounds  of  beeswax  added  to  each  gallon  of 
paint ;  after  the  first  coat  is  dry,  put  on  second,  mixed  as  follows, 
viz. :  one  pound  lamp-black  mixed  for  paint,  one  pound  red  lead, 
one  gallon  paint  oil,  half  pound  litharge,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
indigo,  boiled  for  half  an  hour,  and  stirred  at  intervals.  Care 
should  be  taken  that  the  composition  boils  that  length  of  time. 
After  it  has  cooled  a  little,  add  one  pint  of  spirits  of  turpentine ; 
apply  when  warm,  and  it  will  dry  in  a  short  time  with  a  beauti- 
ful gloss,  and  be  perfectly  limber.  This  last  mixture  has  been 
found  very  suitable  for  yards,  and  also  the  bends ;  but  it  must 
never  be  used  too  warm,  particularly  on  canvass,  in  which  case 
it  will  lose  its  gloss.  The  priming,  or  first  coat,  is  not  put  OD 
cloths  that  have  been  blacked  before. 


390  THE  KEDGE- ANCHOR; 


53O.— FOR   MAKING  LIQUID-BLACKING. 

Four  ounces  of  ivory  black,  five  or  six  table-spoonsful  of  mo- 
lasses,  one  and  a-half  ounce  oil  of  vitriol,  one  and  a-half  ounce 
sweet  oil,  and  six  gills  of  vinegar.  After  mixing  the  ingredients 
together  well  and  stirring  them  frequently,  the  blacking  will  be 
fit  for  use. 


531.— FOR    BLACKING  GUNS. 

Six  ounces  of  lamp-black,  three  pints  of  spirits  of  turpentine, 
and  three  ounces  of  litharge  to  be  put  in  after  the  lamp-black 
and  turpentine  are  well  mixed ;  add  one  ounce  of  umber  to  give 
it  a  gloss,  and  one  gallon  bright  varnish. 


532.— COMPOSITION  FOR  BLACKING  GUNS. 

Six  pounds  of  beeswax  cut  up  fine,  then  add  seven  quarts 
spirits  of  turpentine;  let  it  stand  until  it  is  well  dissolved,  then 
add  one  pound  lamp-black,  and  mix  it  well  together. 


533 FOR   MAKING  BLACK-VARNISH,  NO.   I. 

Two  pounds  of  gum  shellac,  two  pounds  umber,  one  gallon 
linseed  oil,  and  quarter  pound  of  lamp-black ;  boiled  together  foi 
four  hours  over  a  slow  fire. 


534.— COMPOSITION  FOR    BLACKING  HAMMOCK 
CLOTHS,   NO.  I. 

Twenty  pounds  of  beeswax,  four  pounds  rosin,  two  gallons 
spirits  of  turpentine,  one  gallon  paint  oil,  and  six  pound  of  lamp- 
black.    Boil  them  well  together,  and  keep  it  warm  while  put 
ting  on. 

Note. — To  be  primed  first  with  lead-colored  paint. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'  ASSISTANT. 


391 


535.— COMPOSITION  FOR  HAMMOCK  CLOTHS,  NO.  II 

Forty-eight  pounds  of  yellow  ochre,  eight  pounds  black  paint, 
half  pound  soap,  and  three  pints  of  fresh  water. 


536.— FOE,  HAMMOCK  CLOTHS,  NO.   III. 

Half  a  pound  of  black  paint,  three  pounds  yellow  ochre,  half 
pound  of  soap,  three-quarters  of  a  gill  of  fresh  water. 


537.— FOE    HAMMOCK   CLOTHS,  NO.   IV. 

Eighty  pounds  black  paint  well  ground,  ten  gallons  linseed  oil, 
ten  pounds  of  beeswax,  five  pounds  litharge,  and  one  gallon  of 
spirits  of  turpentine.  For  blacking  bends,  add  two  gallons  of 
tar. 


538.— FOE   MAKING  BLACK-VAENISH,  NO.  IL 

One  gallon  of  the  spirits  of  turpentine,  one  pound  and  four 
ounces  of  rosin,  one  pound  and  four  ounces  lamp-black,  and  one 
quart  of  linseed  oil ;  to  be  boiled  on  a  slow  fire  for  half-an-hour 
then  used  or  laid  on  when  cold. 


539.— SOLDEE  FOE   COPPER. 

Nothing  is  necessary  here,  but  good  tough  borax  and  brass, 
well  mixed  together  with  water,  to  the  consistence  of  paste. 


29 


392  THE   KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

5  4O.— SOLDER    FOR    LEAD. 

Take  two  parts  of  water-lead,  and  one  part  of  tin ;  its  good- 
ness is  tried  by  melting  it,  and  pouring  the  size  of  a  half  dollar 
piece  on  a  table ;  then  if  it  be  good  there  will  arise  small,  bright 
stars  or  beads  on  it.  Apply  rosin  when  you  use  it. 


541.-— TO    MAKE   THE   BEST   DRYING   OIL. 

Mix  one  pound  of  litharge  of  gold  to  every  six  gallons  of  oil ; 
ooil  it  over  a  slow  fire,  but  riot  too  much,  least  it  prove  too  *hick, 
and  be  unserviceable. 


542.— FOR  BLACK   STAIN. 

Four  ounces  of  copperas  ;  iron  rust,  or  a  few  pieces  of  old  iron 
noop  ;  one  gallon  of  vinegar  ;  half  pound  lamp-black,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  oak  shavings. 


543.— BLACKING    GUNS,   SHOT,  &o. 

Coal  tar  alone,  or  mixed  with  a  little  salt  water,  is  a  good 
thing  for  blacking  guns  and  shot.  It  should  be -laid  on  quite 
warm,  and  if  the  day  be  cold,  a  hot  shot  may  with  advantage  be 
put  into  the,  guns  to  warm  the  metal,  and  make  it  take  the  black- 
ing better,  due  attention  being  previously  paid  to  unloading. 

Lay  the  stuff  on  as  thin  as  possible,  with  paint-brushes,  using 
hot  loggerheads  or  bolts  to  keep  it  warm. 

If  well  laid  on,  and  wiped  afterwards  with  an  oil-cloth  oc- 
casionally, this  process  will  prevent  rust,  and  preserve  the  good 
look  of  the  guns  for  a  length  of  time,  without  having  recourse  to 
washing  with  water. 


OR  YOUNG  SAILORS'   ASSISTANT. 


393 


544.— FRENCH  RECIPE  FOR  BLACKING  GUNS,  &c. 

To  one  gallon  of  vinegar,  put  ten  ounces  of  lamp-black,  and 
one  pound  and  a-half  of  clear  sifted  iron-rust,  and  mix  them  well 
together. 

Lay  this  on  the  guns  after  a  good  coat  of  black  paint,  and  rub 
it  occasionally  with  a  soft  oil-cloth. 


IMPORTANT  SCIENTIFIC  WORKS. 


I. 
APPLETONS'    CYCLOPAEDIA  OF  APPLIED  MECHANICS.     A 

Dictionary  of  Mechanical  Engineering  and  the  Mechanical  Arts.  Illustrated 
by  5,000  Engravings.  Edited  by  PARK  BENJAMIN,  Ph.  D.  2  vols.,  8vo. 
Sheep,  £15.00;  half  morocco,  $17.00. 

APPLETOXS'  CYCLOPAEDIA  OP  APPLIED  MECHANICS  of  1879  is  a  new  work,  and 
not  a  revision  of  the  former  Dictionary  of  Mechanics  of  1850.  It  presents  the 
best  and  latest  American  practice  in  the  mechanical  arts,  and  compares  the  same 
with  that  of  other  nations.  It  also  exhibits  the  extent  to  which  American  inven- 
tion and  discovery  have  contributed  to  the  world's  progress  during  the  last  quarter 
century.  The  contributors  include  many  of  the  most  eminent  American  mechani- 
cal experts  and  engineers.  Several  of  their  contributions  contain  the  results  of 
original  research  and  thought  never  before  published.  Their  efforts  have  in  all 
cases  tended  to  simplify  the  subjects  treated,  to  avoid  technicalities,  and  so  to 
render  all  that  is  presented  easily  understood  by  the  general  reader  as  well  as  by 
the  mechanical  student.  Examples  are  appended  to  all  rules,  explanations  to  all 
tables,  and  in  such  matters  as  the  uses  of  tools  and  management  of  machines  the 
instructions  are  unusually  minute  and  accurate. 

II. 

Arnott,  Neil.     Elements  of  Physics  ;  or,  Natural  Philosophy.     Seventh  edition. 

12 mo.     Cloth,  $3.00. 

III. 
Bourne,  John.     A  Catechism  of  the  Steam-Engine.      New  revised  edition, 

with  Illustrations.     12mo.     Cloth,  $1.75. 

rv. 

Bourne,  John.  Hand-Book  of  the  Steam-Engine.  Constituting  a  Key  to  the 
"  Catechism  of  the  Steam-Engine."  Illustrated  with  67  Woodcuts.  12mo. 
Cloth,  $1.75. 

V. 

Bourne,  John.  A  Treatise  on  the  Steam-Engine  in  its  various  Applications  tc 
Mines,  Mills,  Steam  Navigation,  Railways,  and  Agriculture ;  with  Theoreti- 
cal Investigations  respecting  the  Motive  Power  of  Heat,  and  the  Proper 
Proportions  of  Steam-Engines,  Elaborate  Tables  of  the  Right  Dimensions 
of  every  Part,  and  Practical  Instruction  for  the  Manufacture  and  Manage- 
ment of  every  Species  of  Engine  in  Actual  Use.  Being  the  seventh  edition 
of  "  A  Treatise  on  the  Steam-Engine,"  by  the  "  Artisan  Club."  Illustrated 
with  37  Plates  and  546  Woodcuts.  4to.  Cloth,  $12.00. 


IMPORTANT  SCIENTIFIC  WORKS. 


I. 
APPLETONS'    CYCLOPAEDIA  OF  APPLIED  MECHANICS.     A 

Dictionary  of  Mechanical  Engineering  and  the  Mechanical  Arts.  Illustrated 
by  5,000  Engravings.  Edited  by  PARK  BENJAMIN,  Ph.  D.  2  vols.,  8vo. 
Sheep,  $15.00;  half  morocco,  $17.00. 

APPLETOXS'  CYCLOPAEDIA  OF  APPLIED  MECHANICS  of  1879  is  a  new  work,  and 
not  a  revision  of  the  former  Dictionary  of  Mechanics  of  1850.  It  presents  the 
best  and  latest  American  practice  in  the  mechanical  arts,  and  compares  the  same 
with  that  of  other  nations.  It  also  exhibits  the  extent  to  which  American  inven- 
tion and  discovery  have  contributed  to  the  world's  progress  during  the  last  quarter 
century.  The  contributors  include  many  of  the  most  eminent  American  mechani- 
cal experts  and  engineers.  Several  of  their  contributions  contain  the  results  of 
original  research  and  thought  never  before  published.  Their  efforts  have  in  all 
cases  tended  to  simplify  the  subjects  treated,  to  avoid  technicalities,  and  so  to 
render  all  that  is  presented  easily  understood  by  the  general  reader  as  well  as  by 
the  mechanical  student.  Examples  are  appended  to  all  rules,  explanations  to  all 
tables,  and  in  such  matters  as  the  uses  of  tools  and  management  of  machines  the 
instructions  are  unusually  minute  and  accurate. 

II. 

Arnott,  Neil.  Elements  of  Physics ;  or,  Xatural  Philosophy.  Seventh  edition. 
12mo.  Cloth,  $3.00. 

III. 

Bourne,  John.  A  Catechism  of  the  Steam-Engine.  Xew  revised  edition, 
with  Illustrations.  12mo.  Cloth,  $1.75. 

IV. 

Bourne,  John.  Hand-Book  of  the  Steam-Engine.  Constituting  a  Key  to  the 
'•  Catechism  of  the  Steam-Engine."  Illustrated  with  67  Woodcuts.  12mo. 
Cloth,  $1.75. 

V. 

Bourne,  John.  A  Treatise  on  the  Steam-Engine  hi  its  various  Applications  tc 
Mines,  Mills,  Steam  Navigation,  Railways,  and  Agriculture ;  with  Theoreti- 
cal  Investigations  respecting  the  Motive  Power  of  Heat,  and  the  Proper 
Proportions  of  Steam-Engines,  Elaborate  Tables  of  the  Right  Dimensions 
of  every  Part,  and  Practical  Instruction  for  the  Manufacture  and  Manage- 
ment of  every  Species  of  Engine  in  Actual  Use.  Being  the  seventh  edition 
of  "  A  Treatise  on  the  Steam-Engine,"  by  the  "  Artisan  Club."  Illustrated 
with  37  Plates  and  546  Woodcuts.  4to.  Cloth,  $12.00. 


IMPORTANT  SCIENTIFIC  WORKS.— (Continued.) 


VI. 

Carpenter,  W.  B.  Principles  of  Mental  Physiology,  with  their  Application 
to  the  Training  and  Discipline  of  the  Mind,  and  the  Study  of  its  Morbid 
Conditions.  12mo.  Cloth,  $3.00. 

VII. 

Chauveau,  Professor  A.  The  Comparative  Anatomy  of  the  Domesticated 
Animals.  By  A.  CHAUVEAU,  Professor  at  the  Lyons  Veterinary  School. 
Second  edition,  revised  and  enlarged,  with  the  Cooperation  of  S.  Arloing, 
late  Principal  of  Anatomy  at  the  Lyons  Veterinary  School.  Translated 
and  edited  by  James  Fleming.  With  450  Illustrations.  8vo.  Cloth,  $6.00. 

VIII. 

Deschanel,  A.  P.  Elementary  Treatise  on  Natural  Philosophy.  By  A.  PRI- 
VAT  DESCHANEL,  formerly  Professor  of  Physics  in  theLyceeLouis-le-Grand, 
Inspector  of  the  Academy  of  Paris.  Translated  and  edited,  with  Extensive 
Additions,  by  J.  D.  EVERETT,  Professor  of  Natural  Philosophy  in  the  Queen's 
College,  Belfast.  In  Four  Parts.  Part  I.  Mechanics,  Hydrostatics,  and 
Pneumatics.  Part  II.  Heat.  Part  III.  Electricity  and  Magnetism.  Part 
IV.  Sound  and  Light.  Copiously  illustrated.  8vo.  Flexible  cloth,  per 
Part,  $1.50.  With  Problems  and  Index,  complete  in  one  volume,  Svo, 
cloth,  $5.70. 

IX. 

Gore,  G.  The  Art  cf  Electro-Metallurgy  ;  including  all  known  of  Electro-Depo- 
sition. Illustrated.  16mo.  Cloth,  $2.50. 

X. 

Gosse's  Evenings  at  the  Microscope  ;  or,  Researches  among  the  Minuter  Organs 
and  Forms  of  Animal  Life.  12mo.  Cloth,  $1.50. 

XI. 

Harris,  George,  F.  S.  A.  Civilization  considered  as  a  Science.  12mo.  Cloth, 
$1.50. 

XII. 

Helmholtz,  H.  Popular  Lectures  on  Scientific  Subjects.  Translated  by  E. 
ATKINSON,  Ph.  D.,  F.  C.  S.  With  an  Introduction  by  Professor  TYNDALL. 

12mo.     Cloth,  $2.00. 

XIII. 

Ilia  ton,  James.  Physiology  for  Practical  Use.  With  an  Introduction  by 
Professor  E.  L.  YOUMANS.  12mo.  Cloth,  $2.25. 


IMPORTANT  SCIENTIFIC  WORKS.— (Continued.) 


XIV. 

Hoffmann,  Frederick.  Manual  of  Chemical  Analysis,  as  applied  to  the  Ex- 
amination of  Medicinal  Chemicals.  A  Guide  for  the  Determination  of  their 
Identity  and  Quality,  and  for  the  Detection  of  Impurities  and  Adulterations. 
For  the  Use  of  Pharmaceutists,  Physicians,  Druggists,  and  Manufacturing 
Chemists,  and  Students.  Svo.  Cloth,  §3.00. 

XV. 

Johnston,  Professor  James  F.  W.  The  Chemistry  of  Common  Life.  A 
new  edition,  revised,  enlarged,  and  brought  down  to  the  Present  Time,  by 
ARTHUR  HERBERT  CHURCH,  M.  A.,  Oxon.,  author  of  "  Food :  its  Sources, 
Constituents,  and  Uses."  Illustrated  with  Maps  and  numerous  Engravings 
on  Wood.  12mo.  Cloth,  $2.00. 

XVI. 

Le  Conte,  Professor  Joseph.  Elements  of  Geology.  A  Text-Book  for 
Colleges  and  for  the  General  Reader.  Svo.  Cloth,  §4.00. 

XVII. 

Lyell's  Principles  of  Geology  ;  or,  the  Modern  Changes  of  the  Earth  and  its  In- 
habitants, considered  as  illustrative  of  Geology.  Illustrated  with  Maps, 
Plates,  and  Woodcuts.  A  new  and  entirely  revised  edition.  2  vols.,  large 
Svo.  Cloth,  $8.00. 

XVIII. 

Nicholson,  H.  Alleyne.  Zoology  (Text-Book  of),  for  Schools  and  Colleges. 
12mo.  Half  roan,  $1.50. 

XIX. 

Nicholson,  H.  Alleyne.  Manual  of  Zoology,  for  the  Use  of  Students,  with 
a  General  Introduction  to  the  Principles  of  Zoology.  Second  edition,  re- 
vised and  enlarged.  With  243  Woodcuts.  ]2mo.  Cloth,  $2.50. 

XX. 

Nicholson,  H.  Alleyne.  Geology  (Text-Book  of),  for  Schools  and  Colleges. 
12mo.  Half  roan,  $130. 

XXI. 

Nicholson,  H.  Alleyne.  The  Ancient  Life-History  of  the  Earth.  A  Com- 
prehensive Outline  of  the  Principles  and  Leading  Facts  of  Palaeontological 
Science.  12mo.  Cloth,  S2.00. 


IMPORTANT  SCIENTIFIC  WORKS.— (Continued.) 


XXII. 
Prescott,  G.  B.     Electricity  and  the  Electric  Telegraph.     8vo.    Cloth,  $5.00. 

XXIII. 

Prescott,  G.  B.  The  Speaking  Telephone,  Electric  Light,  and  other  Recent 
Electrical  Inventions.  New  edition,  with  200  additional  pages,  including 
Illustrated  Descriptions  of  all  of  Edison's  Inventions.  214  Illustrations. 

8vo.     Cloth,  $4.00. 

XXIV. 

Roscoe,  H.  E.,  and  Schorlemmer,  C.    Treatise  on  Chemistry.     Illustrated. 
Volume    L— The  Non-Metallic  Elements.     8vo.     Cloth,  $5.00. 
Volume  II.,  Part  I.— Metals.     8vo.     Cloth,  $3.00. 
Volume  II.,  Part  II.— Metals.     8vo.     Cloth,  $3.00  (completing  the  work). 

XXV. 

Rutley ,  Frank.  The  Study  of  Rocks :  an  Elementary  Text-Book  on  Petrol- 
ogy. 16mo.  Cloth,  $1.75. 

XXVI. 

Thurston,  R.  H.  A  History  of  the  Growth  of  the  Steam-Engine.  With  163 
Illustrations.  12mo.  Cloth,  $2.50. 

XXVII. 

Wagner,  Rudolf.  Hand-Book  of  Chemical  Technology.  Translated  and 
edited  from  the  eighth  German  edition,  with  extensive  Additions,  by  WIL- 
LIAM CKOOKES,  F.  R.  S.  With  336  Illustrations.  8vo.  Cloth,  $5.00. 

xxvni. 

Webber,  Samuel,  C.  E.  Manual  of  Power,  for  Machines,  Shafts,  and  Belts. 
With  a  History  of  Cotton  Manufacture  in  the  United  States.  8vo.  Cloth, 

$3.50. 

XXIX. 

Wellington  Arthur  M.,  C.  E.  Methods  for  the  Computation,  from  Dia- 
grams, of  Preliminary  and  Final  Estimates  of  Railway  Earthwork,  with 
Diagrams,  giving  Quantities  of  Inspection  and  Irregular  Sections  direct  from 
Ordinary  Field- Works.  2  vols.  Cloth,  $5.00;  or,  separately :  Text,  12mo, 
cloth,  $1.50 ;  Plates,  folio,  cloth,  $3.50. 


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